[560] Now Markinch.

Their was thrie thries[561] (as they called them) in Fyfe, Balveiry Scot,

Ardrosse Scot, Dischingtoune of late, but Scot, and Balgonie Sibbald:

Balmuto, Bosuel, Weimes of that Ilk, and Rossyth Stuart: then Lundie of

that Ilk, Durie of that Ilk, and Colerine, Barclay or else Craighall,

Kinninmont.

[561] This seems only to mean that the three trios of lairds hunted,

not in couples, but in threes.

On the 5 of May we came over from Bruntiland.

Skein in his de V. Signi:[562] _in verbo_ Clan Macduff, tells whow on

William Ramsay was Earle of Fife in King David the 2'ds dayes.

[562] _Verborum significatione_.

Saw in the way to Bruntilland the sands King Alexander the 3'd brak his

neck on.

* * * * *

Mr. Joseph Mede,[563] in one of his letters to Doctor Tuisse,[564] speaking

anent the manner whow the great continent of America and its circumjacent

ilands may probably be supposed to have bein peopled, thinks that the

greatest part of that country (especially Mexico and Peru, who ware found

the only civilized people amongs them, having both a State and a Church

government established among them) was planted by great colonies sent out

of the barborous northern nations laying upon the north frozen sea,

videlicet, the Tartars and others,[565] who entred America by the Straits

of Auvan, and that the most of them hes gone thether since our Saviours

coming in the flesh. After which the devil, finding his kingdom ever more

and more to decay through the spreading of Christianity upon the face of

the wholle earth, which before he keipt inchained in black heathinsme, and

being much afflicted with the great din and noyse of the gospell

which was come to the utmost ends of the then knowen world, so that he was

affraid to lose all his footing hear, he by his oracles and responses

encouraged thesse Barbarians (in this Gods ape[566] who called Abram to the

land of promise) to desert their native countrie and promised them better

habitations in another part (which he might soon do) wheir he might be out

of the dread of the gospell and might securly triumph over them as his bond

slaves.

[563] Mede, Joseph, B.D., 1586-1638.

[564] Twisse, Wm., D.D., 1575-1646.

[565] On the margin: 'Purchas in his Pilgrimage in Mexico reports this

storie also.'

[566]_ i.e._ imitator.

The ground of this conjecture is from some records found in the city of

Mexico of their kingdome and its foundation, bearing that their ancestors

about 400 years ago onlie (who then dwelt far north) ware called out of

that countrie by their God which they called Witzill Putzill, in effect,

the Devil, to go to a far country (this was to Mexico), far more fruitfull

and pleasant than their oune, which he should show them, and wheirof he did

give them marks and that he should go before them. And that accordingly

they sett on for the journey, and that their god went before them in ane

ark, and that they had many stations and marches, and that they ware 40

years by the way, and that at last they came to the promised land, and that

they know it by the marks their god had given them of it. All this in

manifest imitation of God his bringing the children of Israel out of Egypt.

Its reported that the State of Scotland looking ut for a suitable match for

James the 2d, then King, sent over to the Duc of Gelderland (who had 3

daughters) some of the nobility and some bischops for the clergy to demand

any of the 3 they should judge most sutable for the King. The Duc was

content on of the Bischops [it was the Bischop of Rosse][567]--should sie

them and feill them all 3 naked to discern theirby which of them was

strongest and wholesomest like. His report was in favors of the youngest:

his reason was, _Est enim bene crurata culata cunnata aptaque ad

procreandos nobis generosos principes._[568]

[567] Interlined.

[568] The Bishop of Dunkeld (not Ross) was one of three commissioners

sent to choose a bride for the king, first to the Court of France.

Mary of Gueldres was an only daughter-Tytler, _Hist._ iii. 209.

The story is probably apocryphal. But in Russia, when the Tsars

were married, the inspection of the candidates was an established

custom and ceremony for two centuries after the marriage of James

II.

A French gentleman being inamoured with a damoiselle of Lyons, going in to

Italie to travell she gets notice that he had tane huge conceit of a

Venetian, and that he was about to marrie hir. She writs a letter in a

large sheit wheirin was nothing written but Lamasabachthani, withall a

false diamond. He receaving it know not what to make of it, went to a

jeweller to try the stone, who discovered it to be false tho it had ane

excellent luster. After many tossing thoughts he fell upon the knack of it,

videlicet, that it was a heiroglyphick diamant faux, and that it behoved to

be read thus, Tell, false lover, why hast thou forsaken me.

* * * * * [569]

[569] There is here omitted an unpleasant story of a Duc de

Montpensier of a former age, who in ignorance married a lady to

whom he was doubly related by the closest ties of consanguinity.

The same story will be found in Nouvelle 30 of Queen Margaret of

Navarre (the scene being laid in Avignon), and in Horace Walpole's

play _The Mysterious Mother_. Also an anecdote about the terms of

the _tenendas_ clause of a charter said to be in the Tower of

London, which is given in English, and is too gross to print.

For farder demonstrations of the truth of that conspiracy of Gouries (which

some cals in doubt), besydes what is in Spotswood, Mr. William Walker told

that he heard oft from Mr. Andrew Ramsay that the said Earle being

travelling in Italie had a response thus, _Dominus de Gourie erit Rex_.

After which he took a strong fancie he would be King, wheiras it was to be

reid, _Rex erit_, etc. In pershuit wheirof being in on of the Universities

of Germanie and to leive his armes their, in his coat he caused put the

Kings armes, videlicet, the Lyon, with a hand and a dager pointing at the

Lyons breist, and so gifted them. And when he was returning he wrot to all

his freinds and dependents to meit him at Muslebrugh, which they did to the

number of 300 horse or their abouts, with which he came to Edenburgh; and

that he might be the more tane notice of, he caused take his lodging in the

Landmarket,[570] and came up al the streit with this train, and tho the

King was in the Abbey yet he passed by without taking notice of him. He was

likewayes a great receipter and protector of all the discontented factious

persones of that tyme.

[570] Now Lawnmarket.

They say their are blood yet to be sein on the wall of the house in St.

Johnston, wher he and his brothers ware slain, which cannot be washen away.

Sir John Ramsay being then the Kings page killed him (he was a sone of the

Laird of Wyliecleuchs in the Merse), and for his valeur and good service

was made Earle of Huldernesse and got a great part of the lordship of

Dumbar, which was then of the Kings annexed patrimonie, but on this accompt

in anno 1600 ware dissolved by the Parliament. Thesse lands Mr. W. Kellie

afterwards acquired.

In September 1670 I waited upon my father to the Merse to sie the Laird of

Idingtoun.[571] Lighted at St. Germains, so called from are old chappell

dedicat to that saint of old standing their. From that went to Hadingtoun,

saw in the way Elvingston, weill planted, but standing in Gladsmoore: item,

Nunland, Adderstone, and Laurenceland, belonging to Doctor Hendersone.

Above Hadingtone lyes Clerkingtone, Cockburne, Colstoune, Broun, who talk

much of their antiquity and pear[572] they preserve, Yester, and

Leidingtoune: 3 miles of stands the Registers house, Chesters, wheirin Mr.

Patrick Gillespie now dwells. To the eist of Hadington stands the Abbay,

Newmilnes, Stevinsone, and Hermistone, all most pleasant places and weill

planted; as also Morhame and Hailles, past the Almous[573] house within a

mile of Dumbar. Saw on our right hand Spot and the Bourhouscs, ware Happers

now Muires; saw also Fuirstoun belonging to Andrew Whyte, once keiper of

the Tolbuith; then saw Innerwick toune and church standing at a good

distance from the house. Saw Neutonlies, Eistbarnes, Thornetounloch,

Scatteraw, Douglas, and Colbrandspath: past thesse steip braes called the

Pies. Saw Butterdean toune and house acquired by Mr. William Hay, the

Clerk, who also bought Aberlady, now belonging to Sir Androw Fletcher: then

saw Rentoun lying in a wild moir: item, Blacarstoun of on our right hand

also in a wild seat, yet seimed to be reasonably weill busked with

planting: item, Blaickburne in the moir: then Fosterland: then Bouncle,

Preston, and Lintlands, belonging to the Marquise of Douglas and presently

the Lady Stranavers jointer, worth 10,000 merks by year: then Billie,

Renton to his name, and then Billie, Myre; then Edencraw, then came to

Idington, 36 miles from Edenbrugh, ware Idingtons to their name, hes no

evidents of it but since the year 1490. In this same condition are the most

of the gentlemen of the Merse who ly most obnoxious to Englands invasions.

[571] Sir John Lauder senior's third wife was a daughter of Ramsay of

Idington.

[572] The Coalston pear was presented by the Warlock of Gifford to his

daughter, who married Broun of Coalston, telling her that as long

as it was preserved fortune would not desert the family.

[573] Alms.

Saw the Maines, a roome lying betuixt Chirnesyde tour and Idington: ware

Homes. On Patrick Mow, sone to the last Laird of Mow, maried the heritrix

of it, and so hes the land. They tell whow the Earle of Roxbrugh was the

cause of the ruine of the said Laird of Mow. Mow being on a tyme with some

Englishmen took on a match for running upon a dog of my Lord Roxbrughs

head[574] against their dogs, wheiron addressing himselfe to my Lord, he

would not quite his dog unless Mow would give him a bond to pay him 8000

merks incaise he restored him not back the dog haill and sound: which Mow,

thinking their ware no hazard in it, did. The day being come my Lords dog

wins the race; but as soon as it was done my Lord had a man ther readie to

shoot it: who accordingly did so, and fled. Then my Lord seiking the soume

in the bond, and he unwilling to pay it, was at wast charges in defending,

and at last succumbed, and so morgaged his estate to Adam Bell, who after

got it. His ladie was a daughter of West Nisbets, with whom the young man

Patrick was brought up.

[574] Upon the head of a dog of Lord Roxburgh's, _i.e._ backing

the dog.

Saw Chirnesyde toune standing a mile of Idingtoun, belonging to sundry

petty heritors, some of them of halfe mark lands. My Lord Mordington is

superior as also patron of the Kirk: on Lanty is minister their. It will be

more then halfe a mile long. At the end of it neir to Whitater stands the

Nynewells (corruptly called the Nyneholes), from 9 springs of water besyde

it, wheirof on in the fountain is verie great: are Homes to their name. Saw

Blanerne, belonging now to Douglas of Lumbsdean. Saw Eist Nisbet, ware

Chirnesydes, now belongs to the Earle of Levins daughter: item, Blacader,

ware Blacaders (of which name Tullialen is yet), are now Homes who ware a

cadet of Manderstones. At a greater distance saw Manderston, Aytoun,

Wedderburne, Polwart, Reidbraes, a house of Polwerts, Crumstaine, Sandy

Spottiswoods; West Nisbet, a most sweit place, ware Nisbets to their name.

Saw Huttonhall, ware Homes to their name, now belongs to Hilton, which was

a part of Suintons lands. Saw the toune of Hutton belonging to sundry

portioners. Saw Paxtoun and Edringtone, a part of Basses[575] lands, and

given away to a brother, now belongs to my Lord Mordington. Saw Foulden,

the Bastile, Nunlands, Ramsay--his grandsire was parson of Foulden. Saw

Mordington and Nather Mordington. Saw the bound road[576] within my Lords

park. Saw on the English syde of Tuede Ourde the Birkes wheir King Charles

army ly, Norame Castle and Furde; the ladie wheirof inviegled King James

the 4t when he went in to Flouden: they have bein leud women ever since.

Ker of Itall got it by marieng the heritrix. Went to Bervick, wheir they

are building ane Exchange. In the way is Halidoun Hill, wheir on of the

Douglasses was slain; Lammerton, in the Chappell wherof was King James the

3d maried on King Hendrie the 7th of Englands daughter. Their is a great

salmond fisching on Tueid: for the freedome but of one boat on it they pay

100 lb. ster: per annum. We was at a kettle[577] on the water syde. My Lord

Mordington had all the Magdalene field, but he could not get it peaceably

possessed for thesse of Berwick, so that he sold it to Watsone. Holy Iland

is 7 miles from Berwick. My Lords father Sir James Douglas was a sone of

the Marquis of Douglas: he maried the only daughter of the Lord Oliphant.

Idington is 5 miles furder in the Merse then Renton.

[575] Lauder of the Bass.

[576] Probably a road forming the boundary between the liberties of

Berwick and the county.

[577] 'A social party on Tweedside, common during the salmon fishing

season.'--Ogilvie's _Imp. Dict_.

Returned that same way almost and came to Auldhamstocks, 9 miles from

Idington. Saw Auldcambus, then came to Eistbarnes; then for Linton bridges;

within 2 mile of it saw the land of Nyne ware. Saw Gourlaybank; came and

lay at Wauchton, who ware Moubrayes, and a 2d sone of my Lord Hailles

marieing them they became Hepburnes. Quinkerstaines is a peice of old land

of theirs. They got also Lufnes by marieng the heritrix theirof Riccartoun.

But my Lord Hailes rose by 3 forfaulters: of the Earle of March, Dumbar, of

the Creichton, and of Bothuell, Ramsay, the Laird of Balmayne.[578] Gorgie

milne besyde Edenburgh did belong to Balmayne, but by a gift of nonentrie

Otterbune of Reidhall, who was at that tyme Clerk Register, he got it.

[578] As to Ramsay of Balmain being created Earl of Bothwell by James

III., see p. 205.

Saw nixt day Furd, Whitkirk, Craig, Hepburn, Balgone, Semple, Leuchie,

Merjoribanks, Sydserfe, Achesone, Cassilton, Tomtallon, both the Marquis of

Douglasses, and the Basse, 2 mile within the sea, about a short mile in

circumference. Saw the May, belongs to Barnes Cunyghame. Saw Fentontour,

ware Haliburtons and Wisconts, then purchased by the Earle of Gourie, now

my Lord Advocats:[579] saw the Heuch-Home.

[579] Sir John Nisbet.

Nixt day went for Hadington: saw Ethelstanefield.[580] In Hadington saw my

Lord Lawderdales buriall place, werie magnifiek. The Lord Yesters got

Zester by mariage of the only child of my Lord Giffart. He had Beltan by

marieng with a Cunyghame.

[580] Probably Athelstaneford.

In the coming to Edenbrugh saw Eister and Wester Adenstens, that is also

their name; then Tranent, and neir it Windiegoule; then Elphinstone; then

on the cost syde Cockenie, Seaton, Preston, Prestongrange, the Pans,

Landnidrie:[581] up on the brae are Wallyfield, Dauphinton, Carberrie and

Fausyde.

[581] Now Longniddry.

Master Thomas Scot of Abbotshall in King James the 5th tyme was Justice

Clerk. Vide Hopes Collections, page 12, in principio.

The Lairds of Glenbervie are not the oldest Douglasses as some say, but a

cadet of Angus maried the heritrix theirof, they being then Melvils verie

old in that name, and the powerfullest in all the Mearnes. They ware

heritable shireffs their, and on of them being a great oppressor of the

wholle country, manie complaints were made of him to the King. The King

once answering that he cared not tho' they supped him in broth, they

presently went and took him to a hill syde which they yet show, put on a

ketle and boiled him their, and each of them took a soop out of it. It was

in 1417.[582]

[582] This story is told more fully by Sir W. Scott in a note to

Leyden's ballad 'Lord Soulis,' _Border Minstrelsy_, vol. ii. p.

350, ed. 1802. Albany was Regent in 1417.

They tell that amongs the manie Universities that are at Lovain their is

one which of old was institute for poor scollars who had nought wheiron to

maintaine themselfs, but that their diet was verie sober, nothing but bread

and very small bread. At a tyme on of the students in it having a great

stomack, in a rage sayd to his other fellows, If I ware Pope of Rome I

would make the students of this Colledge to fare better then they do. He

came to be Pope, and endowed that Colledge with great revenues, so that its

the richest now in all Lovain.

Of all the histories we have on record of magicians and sorcerers that

seimes to me most strange which is reported of Ascletarion by

Suetonius,[583] in Vita Domitiani, in pagina 82.

[583] _Duodecim Caesares_, Domitian c. 15. The soothsayer's

power of divination was tested by asking what his own fate would

be. He said he would very soon be devoured by dogs. Domitian

desiring to confute such uncanny powers of prediction ordered him

to be killed and securely buried. The funeral pyre was knocked

down by a storm, and dogs devoured the half-burnt remains.

That Touch which George Tomsone hes wes acquired by his father from the

Melvines, who are designed Lairds of Dyserts, who again acquired it in 1472

from on Touch, so then they have bein of that Ilk.

Fingask, now McGill, ware Dundasses of before.

(2)

NOTES OF JOURNEYS IN SCOTLAND, 1671-72. [584]

Having past over to Fyffe about the latter end of August 1671, I went to

Leslie. Saw by the way Finglassie and Kinglassy and Caskieberry, bought by

a Gennan who came heir about 60 or 70 years ago, and professed medicine:

was called Shoneir. His grandchild sold it to the chancellor, who hes also

bought the barrony of Cluny, sometyme belonging to Crighton of St.

Leonards. Saw Touch, neir Markinch. Saw Balbirny, sometyme Sir Alex'r

Clerks, now it pertaines to a tailzeour called Balfour. Saw Balquharge

belonging to Bogie's unkle: then going for Couper, saw[585] Ramsayes

forther,[586] now Pitcairnes by a marriage with the heritrix. Saw the hy

way to Falkland, neir which stands Corston, whosse name is Ramsay: a sone

wheirof was sir John Ramsay in K. James the 3ds dayes, and created by him

Earle of Bothwell. He sent to the grammer scool of Edr. for a gentleman's

sone to wait upon him, and who could writ weill. 2 ware brought him to

choise one, wheirof Jo. Ramsay was the one; the other wrot better, yet the

king made choise of John as having more the mean of a gentleman then the

other, and made him his cubicular. He gave him the lands of Taringzean in

Air, and Karkanders in Galloway, Gorgie and Gorgymilne in Louthian, and

Balmayne in the Mernis. Without licence from him none could wear a sword

within 2 miles of the K.'s palace. He made him also captain of his guards,

vide Buchanan, pag. 444 and 450. Anent his being Earle of Bothwel Buchanan

causes some doubt, because in K. Ja. the 3ds dayes, at pag. 452, he

mentions Adam Hepburne, Earle of Bothwell; but I think he is in a mistake,

for Drummond is formally contrare. The time of his death is controverted:

some say he was killed at Stirling field with K. Ja. the 3'd, others

(amongs whom is Mr. Androw Ramsay in his poems) at Flouden with Ja. the

4't. Whoever on Ja. the 3'ds death the title of honor conferred upon him

was retracted; but he was not legally forfault nather in Parliament nor in

a Justice court, so that the familie of Balmayne might the more easily be

restored againe to that honor. He was the first in Scotland that ever got a

patent of nobility. Buchanan throw the wholle tract of his history makes it

his work to speak ill of all thosse who ware the king's favorites for the

tyme. He sets doune all their vices in folio, but conceals the vertue by

which it most be presumed they rose, and by which they did keip themselfes

on foot. The tyme was their ware 22 landed gentlemen of the name of Ramsay

in Fyffe. Some say Corston was a cadet of Dalhousie and some of

Auchterhouse, of which family I have heard it contended the famous Alex'r

Ramsay in King David's tyme (Buchanan, page 309) was, and not of Dalhousie;

as also the Ramsay that was with Wallace. Of Dalhousie Ramsay, sy page 314.

Skein, in the word Clan-McDuff, tells of W'm Ramsay E. of Fyffe, in K.

Davids time. Its thought Auchterhouse is elder then Dalhousie; but that the

most floorishing family is most ready to arrogat to it selfe as being the

oldest house. Sir Jo. Ramsay that killed Gowry was a sone of Wiliecleuches

in the Mers, and got Estbarnes, and was made E. of Huldernes. He was first

made vicount of Hadingtoun.

[584] MS. K.

[585] It may be that the name of the property is omitted by mistake.

[586] 'Formerly.'

We saw also Rossie ...[587] and its loch, which seemes to be very large;

saw Ramorney, Heriot; saw Scotstarvet, formerly Inglistarvet, on the croup

of a hill; besyde it is the Struther. Then came to Couper by that way wheir

the race is run; then came to Scotscraig-a part of it holds of the See of

St. Androis and some of the E. of Mar--my Lord St. Androis big house, 6

miles from Couper and 4 from St. Androis, and a mile from the north ferry.

It belonged, as also the Kirkton within a mile theirof, to George Lord

Ramsay, father to this E. of Dalhousie, and was sold by him to S.[588] J.

Buchanan, and Abbotshall conquestit[589] in lieu theirof. On the windows

of the house of Scotscraig are the initiall letters of Sir Jo. Buchanan and

Dame Margaret Hartsyde. Arthur Erskin got it from them, whosse creditors

sold it to the Bischop, and got but 8 pence for their pounds of what was

owing them.

[587] Two words torn off.

[588] Sir.

[589] 'Acquired.'

In the returning home to the Linkton, we saw 2 miles from the Craig

Brackmont and Brackmont milne; then Forret, then Moonzie, as also

Kinneuchar:[590] item, Dairsie, of old Leirmonts, now Morisones, with

Bischop Spotswoods chappell he can see build their.[591] On the same water

stand Kemnock[592] (theirs another in Fyffe called Cummock, who is Morton

to his name), ware Sheveses, the successors of Wm. Sheves, archbischop of

St. Androis, who outed Grahame, Kennedie's successor, and ingratiated

himselfe with the nobility because of his skill in Astrology; they are now

Mcgills; Rumgaye, also Migill; and Blebo, now Beaton. Saw Craigball, of old

Kinninmonts, now Hopes, as also Cires. Came at last to Kennoway, belonging

to the Laird of Balfour, and holden by him waird of the chancelor Rothes:

its 12 miles fra Scotscraig. Then came to Dysert moor, wheir we saw the

coal pits burning, which will ever burne so long as it hes any waste, but

will die when it comes to the maine coall for want of air. In Dysert toun,

hard by the church, which is a very old one, is a great cave which they

call the Hermitage, and I imagine the toune hes bein called Desertum from

it, yea, the most of the houses of the toun holds of it, and the parson of

Dysert is designed rector rectoriae de Dysert. Then came to Revenscraig

(alias Ruthvenscraig, of which name they seem to have bein of old), the

lord Sinclars dwelling, and so to the Links, which is 6 miles from

Kennoway, and so 18 from the Bischops house. Scotscraig was no old heritage

to the lord Ramsay, but was acquired lately from Dury of that ilk by him.

Balmayne had once Gorgie and Gorgiemilne, but Otterburne of Reidhall, by a

gift of non-entry, evicted it from them. See of the E. of Bothwell and

house of Balmaine largely alibi.

[590] So pronounced, now Kilconquhar.

[591] This seems obscure, though distinctly written. It may mean, 'ye

can see built there.'

[592] Now Kemback.

The Bells wrongs themselfes in wearing bells in their armes, for certainly

ther name is from France, in which language it signifies fair and

bueatifull, hence it was the surname of one of their Kings, vid. Philip le

Bell, yea, in the old Latine Bellum was that same with _pulchrum_; and war

was called _bellum, ironice, quasi minime bellum, id est, minime pulcrum_.

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