came Haddow[470] and Bonnymoon to toune. Many a tyme hes he and I wisited
Litle Brittain. We went throw Bedlam (I was in it and saw thosse poor
peaple), then to Moore fields, wheir is a new street wheirin dwells thosse
that ware burnt out in the fire. They pay wery dear for their ground and it
is but to stand til they rebuild their houses again in the city. Then throw
Long lane wheir is their fripperie; besydes it their is a hospitall for
sick persons; then Smithfield East and West. I had almost forgot Aldergate
Street, on of the nicest now in London, ye shall ever find mercats their;
then we go thorow the Moon taverne. To the west of Smithfield is Snowhill,
wheir the coach for Oxford is; then ye come to Hoburn bridge, a very filthy
place, the street is large and long. In it is St. Andrews church wheir I
went and heard Mr. Stellingfleet; the coach for York is at the Black swan
their; above it ye come in to Lincolnes Innes Fields, a brave place weill
built round about, much like the Place Royall at Paris. Heir lodged my Lord
Middleton, heir is the Dukes playhouse, wheir we saw Tom Sydserfes Spanish
Comedie Tarugo'es Wiles, or the Coffee House,[471] acted. In the pit they
payed 30 p., in our place 18s. He could not forget himselfe: was very
satyricall sneering at the Greshamers for their late invention of the
transfusion of blood, as also at our covenant, making the witch of Geneva
to wy[472] it and La Sainte Ligue de France togither.
[470] Sir George Gordon of Haddo, 1637-1720 (see _infra_, p. 177),
afterward Chancellor and Earl of Aberdeen, now returning from
studying law abroad. Advocate, 1668, Lord of Session, 1680,
President, 1681, Chancellor, 1682.
[471] Printed in 1668. T.S. was the son of the Bishop of Galloway. He
became conductor or proprietor of a theatre in the Canongate,
Edinburgh, and published the _Caledonian Mercury_, the first
Scottish newspaper.
[472] Weigh.
After some way ye come to Covent Garden, all which will quickly fall in to
my Lord of Bedford by wertue of an assedation which quicklie is to expire,
having let of old the ground on the condition they should build upon it and
they brooking the ususfruit for such a space of tyme it should finally
returne to him; and this they tell me to be a ordinary contract at
London;[473] then New Street, Suffolk Street, Charron Crosse, St. Martins
Lane. In its Church preaches D. Hardins, a pretty man. Heir is York house,
the New Exchange, etc., then the Strand and Savoye, Temple bar within and
without the Gate, wheir are all their Innes of Court, their lawyers and
many booksellers. Then ye come to Ludgate hil; then to St. Pauls; then to
Cheapsyde Crosse; then in to Broad Street at the back of the Exchange now:
their is also Litle St. Helens and Great St. Helens, Leadinghal; also
Aldgate, wtin the gate or wtout it; which is either wtin the bars or wtout
them called White Chappell; out which way we went to Hackney, a village
some 2 miles of London wheir M'ris Inglish hir son Edward lives; saw Bedlan
Green by the way and the beggars house. Neir Algate goes of the Minorites
leading to Tower-hil and the Tower, then doun to the Hermitage. The Custome
house is in Mark Lane.
[473] An early notice of building leases.
London is in Midlesex; Southwark thats above the Bridge is in Surrey, thats
under it is in Kent.
Having stayed til the 28 of October (about which very tyme my mother was
safely delivered of Walter), Hadow and I took our places in the coach for
York. Their was a squire in Westmorland with his lady and hir sister
returning home to his oune country, also a Atturneys wife who dwelt in the
Bischoprick of Durham in the Coach with us. Had large discourses of the
idlenes and vitiousnese of the citizens wifes at London being wery
cocknies. We will not forget what contest we had with some of them at the
taking of our places.
Having left London, came first to Hygate, 4 miles, my Lord Lauderdales
house, a village adjoining on the croup of a hill; then to Barnet, 10 miles
from London; then to Hatfield wheir we dined, 17 miles, wheir we saw
Hatfield house with brave parcks, all belonging to my Lord of Salisburie. A
litle of this is the greatest hy way in England leading to S't Albanes.
Came at night to Stesinwich,[474] 20 miles of London.
[474] Stevenage.
Nixt day, being Tuesday, and 29 came to Baldoc 5 miles; Begleswith[475] 10
miles; dined their at the Croun, wery bad entertainment; afternoon to
Bugden,[476] 10 miles further, sad way. That night arrived their my Lord
Rothes, my Lord Arley,[477] Sir J. Strachan, and others going to London.
Its some 3 or 4 miles from Huntington; the country is all couered with
willows like to Holland.
[475] Biggleswade.
[476] Now Buckden.
[477] Arley, probably Airlie.
Nixt day Vednesday, 30, baited at a willage called Walsford,[478] 17 miles
of wery bad way. Came at night to Stamford 5 miles furder; within a mile of
the toune we saw on each hand a brave stately house belonging to my Lord of
Exeter, in one of them lived the Duc of Buckinghame. It stands on a river:
whats besouth the bridge is in Northamptonshire, benorth in Lincolne. Its
held amongs the greatest tounes of England after London. Norwich is the
2'd, it hath 50 churches in it: Bristol is a great toune to.
[478] Watlingsford (Blaeuw), now Wansford.
Nixt day, Thursday, 31, leiving Postwitham[479] and Grantham on our right
hand, we entred unto the most pleasant valley of Bever, the best ground for
corn and pasturage thats in all England: saw its castle at a distance,
seimed to be most artificially fortified; it stands in Leister,
Nottinghame, and Lincolneshires. Dined at Lougbirlington,[480] 18 miles: a
long rabble of a toune indeed. Afternoon came to Newwark upon Trent; had
fowll weather with haille. Its in Nottinghame: its commonly called the
line of England, dividing it into 2 halfes south and north (all that live
benorth it are called North country men) by its river of Trent, which
embraces the sea at Hull; yet the halfes are not æqual. We saw the Kings
Castle their, tho demolisht in the last Civill wars.
[479] Postwitham, so written. North Witham and South Witham are near
the route.
[480] Longbennington.
Nixt day, Fryday, 1 of November, left Toxford[481] on the Clay on our left
hand, entred unto Sheerwood Forest, wheir Robin Hood of old hanted. Was of
a incredible extent; now theirs no wood in it; but most excellent hunting:
it was good way. Baited at Barnby in the Moore, 17 miles of Newwark. As we
was heir J. Graham my Lord Middletons man overtook us going post. After
diner past Scrouby and Batry and[482] came late at night to Doncaster, 10
miles further.
[481] Tuxford.
[482] Scrooby and Bawtry.
The 6't day, being Saturday and the 2'd of November, it was a brave
clinking frost in the morning; we clawed it away past Robin Hoods well;
baited at Ferry bridges, arrived at York safely: lay wheir our coach
stayed. Devoted the nixt being Sabath for viewing of the toune; saw that so
much talked of minstrell, and truely not undeservedly, for it is a most
stupendious, magnificent Church as I had sein. Duc Hamilton was come their
then.
Nixt day, being Monday and 4 of November, having bid adieu to our coach
companie and Mr. Thomas Paterson who had come doune all the way with us,
Sir George and I took post for Barrowbridges,[483] 10 miles. Arrived about
11 howers, dined on apple tarts and sider: on immediatly for Northallerton,
12 miles; arrived ere halfe 3; my horse almost jaded: was very unresolved
whither to go any further or not; yet on for Darneton[484] (wheir the good
spurs are made). We are all weill monted with a good guide: we are not 3
miles of[485] the toune when it falls pit dark; a most boystrous night both
for wind and rain, and for the comble of our misery 10 of the worst way on
all the rode; yet out we most it. He led us not the ordinar way but throw
the enclosures, breaking doune the hedges for a passage wheir their was
none. Many a 100 ditch and hedge did we leap, which was strange to sie had
we not bein on horses that ware accustomed with it, yea some ware so
horrible broad that we forced to leap of and lead over our horses. We was
forced to ride close on on another, otherwise we should have losed on
another. When we was within 2 miles of Darnton we came to a great river
called Tees, in Latin by Cambden Tesis, which divides Yorkshire from the
Bischoprick of Durham (for from the time we came to Barnby in the Moore til
this place we ware ever in Yorkshire, which is the greatest in England);
heir we lighted and hollowed on the boatman on the other syde to come and
boat us and our horses over. If he had not bein their we had bein obliged
to ride 2 miles ere we had come to a bridge: over we win, and at last
reaches Darnton, both wet, weary, and hungrie.
[483] Boroughbridge.
[484] Darlington.
[485] Off, as usual.
Nixt day, Tuesday and 5 of November, on by tymes for Durham, 14 miles. My
saddle proved so unmeit for the horse back that it turned perpetually with
me. At last changed horses with the postillon. Came to Ferryhill, 4 miles
to the south of Durham, askes for Isabell Haswal their, is most kindlie
received; comes to Durham be ten a cloak, on of the most strong tounes, and
that naturally, we saw in all England; then for Newcastle, 10 miles. Our
postillon Need of Durham the greatest pimp of England. Neer Newcastle saw
thesse pits of coall that carries its name. Then to Morpeth, 10 miles;
which wearied us so sore that we resolved to post no more, but to hire
horses home the Kelso way; wheirupon the postmaster furnished us horses to
carry us to Ulars,[486] 22 miles; but ere we had reached Whittinghame throw
that most sad and wearisome moore and those griveous rocks and craigs
called Rumsyde Moore we ware so spent that we was able to go no further;
sent back our horses and stayed their all night.
[486] Wooler.
Nixt day, being Thursday 7 November, got horses from that miserable village
to carry us the other 8 miles to Ulars [Wooler[487]]. After we was once up
the braes we meet with wery good way.[488] At Ulars had much difficulty to
find horses for Kelso, 12 miles further. At lenth we found, which brought
us thither about the evening; crossed the Tuede in boate just forgainst
the toune, which beyond compare hes the pleasantest situation of ever any
toune I yet saw in Scotland. Their stands the relicks of a magnifick
Abbasie that hes bein their. Lodged at Charles Pots; fand a sensible decay
of service by that a man hes in England. Having provided horses to carry us
to Edinburgh, 28 miles, we parted nixt morning Fryday 8 November.
[487] Interlined.
[488] i.e. the road was good.
Saw hard by Kelso thesse 2 most pleasant houses that belong to my Lord
Roxborough, the Flowers[489] and the Friers. Throw muiresh, barren ground
we came in sight of Lauder, 10 miles of Kelso, on the west bray, face of
the Lider Water. Over forgainst it stands a pretty house belonging to my
Lord Lauderdale: 4 mile further of excellent way all amongs the mids of
hills stands Ginglekirk[490] wheir we dined; then forward our Sautry[491]
hils of whilk we discovered Edinborough. Passing throw Fallean[492] came to
the Furd within 6 mile of Edinborrough, yet we called first at New
Cranston, Sir J. Fletchers house; but himselfe was in the north marrieing
the Lady Elsick; his sone James and his daughter ware at Ormaston. James as
soon as he heard we was their came to the foord to us, stayed with us all
night; took us up to Cranston with him; wheir was receaved most magnifickly
by him and his sister.
[489] Now Floors.
[490] Now Channelkirk, still locally pronounced Shinglekirk.
[491] Soutra.
[492] Now Fala.
Parted that day, being Saturday and 9 of November 1667, for Edinborough,
whither by Dalkeith I arrived safelie about 4 a Cloak in the afternoon
amongs my friends, from whom I had bein absent some 2 years and 8 moneths.
DEO GRATIAS.
Accompte of my expence at London from September 6 to the 9 of November
1667.
In money from Freiston received 36 lb. 14 s.
from Lindsay by a bill, 19 lb., in all 55 lb. 15 s. sterling.
For a 4 nights diet and chamber maille in New Street 0 17 0, for a suite of
cloaths, 4 yards and 1/2 at 16 s. 3 yards sargeat, 4 s. and 6. so much
taby. the garniture about the sleives, in garters, shoe strings, etc., 1
lb. 16 s. the making, 14 s. with the other appartenances, in all it stood
me some 9 pound 10 s.
For 2 laced bands, 3 0 0
For a laced gravate, 0 12 0
For 4 pair of holland sleives at 8 s the peice, 1 12 0
For 4 pair of laced cuffes to them, 1 1 0
For silk stockings, 0 12 6
For worsted ones, 0 6 0
For Jesmine gloves, 0 2 6
For a fusting wascoat, 0 5 0
For 2 whole shirtes, 0 12 0
For 2 pair drawers, 0 9 0
For 3 pair shoes, 0 3 0
For a cloathbag, 0 8 0
My Oxford woyage and back, 1 0 0
My expence that week, 0 10 0
For books bought their, my catalogue
amounts to, 8 9 0
Given to Mris Inglish and hir maid, 5 0 0
For my place to York, 2 5 0
For my expence thither, 0 11 0
For 6 stages post, 1 10 0
For hired horses from Morpeth to this, 1 0 0
For my expense from York home, whither I
came Saturday 9 November, 0 8 0
Lent to Mr Thomas Paterson, 1 15 0
Summa of all is, 42 9 0
Brought home 7 lb. 10 s.
Repayed by Mr. T. Paterson 1 lb. 15 s.
which in all makes 9 lb. 5.
PETITION OF MR. JOHN LAUDER.
Unto the Right Honourable the Lord President and remanent Lords of Counsel
and Session the humble petition of Mr. John Lauder sheweth, That wheir your
petitioner having applied himselfe to the study of the Civil law both at
home and abroad, and being resolved to emprove the samen and to exerce it
as Advocat, May it theirfor please your Lordships to remit your petitioner
to the Dean of Faculty and Advocats for his tryall in the ordinar way in
order to the office of ane advocat. And your Lordships favourable returne
heirto.
21 January 1668. The Lords having considered this bill and desyre theirof
remits the petitioner to the Dean of Faculty and Advocats to the effect
they may take triall of his knowledge of the Civill law and make report to
the haill Lords their anent.
JOHN GILMOUR, I.P.D.
Remits the supplicant to the private examinators to take tryall of his
qualifications and to report.
ROBERT SINCLAIR.
27 January 1668. The private examinators having taken tryall of the
supplicants qualifications of the Civill law finds him sufficiently
qualified theirin and remits him to his further tryall.
ROBERT DICKSON, GEOR. NICOLSONE.
PAT. HOOME, RODER. MACKEINZIE.
JAMES DAES.
Edemborough, 28 January 1668. Assignes to the supplicant for the subiect of
his publick examination. Tit. D. _de collatione bonorum._
ROBERT SINCLAIR.
Edemborough, 15 February 1668. The body of Advocats being met and having
heard the supplicant sustain his tryal before them upon the befor-assigned
title, did unanimously approve him theirin and recommend him for his lesson
to the Lords favour.
GEORGE MACKENZIE, in absence of D. of F.
22 February 1668. The Lords having considered the Report above written
assignes to the petitioner the day of June nixt (which indeed was the 5h)
to finish his tryall in order to the office of a ordinire advocate, and
recommends the petitioner to the Dean of faculty for to have ane Law
assigned to him to that effect.
JOHN GILMOUR, I.P.D.
Edemborough, 1668. Assignes to the supplicant for the subject of his
publick lesson. _l. diffamari C. de Ingenuis Manumissis_.
ROBERT SINCLAIRE.
I was admitted advocat on the 5 of June 1668.
* * * * * [493]
[493] A page scored out.
In August 1668 I went home with my sister for Glasco. Went by the White
house, the Coudbridge, Corstorphin, held up to the right hand, saw Gogar on
the left, Ingleston, Boghall, Norvells house. Came to Kirkliston, 6 miles
from Edemburgh. Neir it on this syde of the Water is Carlaury; a mile
furder is the Castle of Nidry; both it and Kirkliston toune belongs to my
Lord Vinton, and Newliston on the left hand[494] then came to Lithcow,
Limnuchum[495] 12 miles from Edenburgh. Baited at on Chrightones forgainst
the Palace, which hes bein werie magnificent, is now for the most part
ruinous. Under it stands the Loch, in the midle wheirof is a litle island
with tries. In the midst of the court is a most artificiall font of most
excellent water. Their is ane in the toune: their ... [496] wes neir the
palace. They are a building a tolbuith all of aislaer work.
[494] On margin [Vinsbrugh, Duntarvy, Wrae, Monteith],
[495] Limnuchum, the Latin name. Arthur Johnston, in his _Carmen de
Limnucho_, quoted at length by Sir Robert Sibbald, 'Nobile
Limnuchum est Patio de marmore templum,' etc.-Treatises,
Linlithgow, p. 16.
[496] About two words obliterated.
A mile from this on our left hand we saw Kettelston Stewart, then wheir the
famous city of Camelon stood built by Cruthne Camelon first King of the
Picts--330 years before Christ--alongs the river of Carron whither the sea
also came up, so that yet to this day digging deip they find tackles and
anchores and other appartenances of ships. Its thought that when the sea
gained in Holland and the Netherlands it retired heir; so that now its not
within 3 miles of this place now. Vespasian in the reigne of our Caratacus,
35 years after Christ, took it and sackt it. At last finally ransackt and
ruined by Kenneth the 2d in the year of Christ 834. Neir to this place
stands Dunipace with the 2 artificiall monts before the gate called
Dunnipacis. Heir also is that old building called by some Arthurs Oven, and
relicts of the great Wall of Adrian. But of all this consult Buchanan, lib
10, pag. 16, 17, 18.
Within a mile of Falkirk stands Calendar, the residence of the Earles of
Callendar, a place full of pleasure. We lay at Falkirk 6 miles beyond
Linligligow. Nixt day on for Kilsith, 9 miles furder. Saw Cumbernauld and
that great mosse wheir that fatall battell of Kilsith[497] was fought, 6000
slayn on the place. Past by the Water of Bony wheir John Scots mother
lives. Bayted at Kilsith, saw the old place which was burned by the
Englishs, and the new place, then other 9 miles to Glascow. Passed by
Calder and a Water of the samen name. Saw Mucdock[498] at a distance, my
Lord Montrosse his residence.
[497] Montrose defeated the Covenanters under Baillie at Kilsyth in
1645.
[498] Now Mugdock.
Being arrived at Glasco we lighted at my sisters[499] in the Trone gate:
then saw Old Colin at his house in the Bridge gate; then saw their
Merchants Hall with its garden in the same street; then the 2 Hutchesones
brether ther hospitall in the Tronegate. The eldest brother was a Wrytter.
Then saw their bridge over Clyde, of which a man hes a most fair prospect
both up the river and doune the river of all the trough of Clyde.
[499] Mr. Laing mentions that one of Lauder's stepsisters was married
to Campbell of Blythswood.
Nixt day heard sermon in the Trone church: fornoon, Mr. Robert Stirling;
afternoon, Mr. Milne. After sermon went to their Bromeylaw, wheir is their
key for their boat, and a spring of most rare water.
Nixt day saw their tolbuith, Gallowgate, Saltmarket, Colledge with the
priveledges of the University of Bononia; their great church, on under
another,[500] with the castle, the bischops residence with the Bischops
hospitall and the tradesmen their hospitall, both at the head of the toune,
which comes running doun from a eminence towards the river, supposing the
river to be the edge of this book, in this fashion.
[500] The crypt.
[Illustration]
We went after for the Ranfield, 5 short miles from Glasco, on the south
side of the river. Saw on the way Govan, Renfrew, burgh royal. On the
other syde ware Parket,[501] Scotts-toune Stewart lately married to
Roysaithes daughter, and the Barnes. Ranfield stands most pleasantly with
abondance of planting betuixt the Clyde and the Greiff[502] or Carst,[503]
that comes from Pasley.
[501] Now Partick.
[502] Now Gryfe.
[503] Now Cart.
Went up to Pasley by the Knock: its 2 mile from the Ranfield, a most
pleasant place with a pretty litle toune. In former tymes it belonged to my
Lord Abercorn. Now my Lord Cochrane hath it, who sold to the toune for 4000
merks the right he had of the election of their Magistrates, which he sore
repents now, for since the toune cares not for him. It hes bein a most
magnificent Abbaye, much of it ruined now. Ye enter into the court by a
great pend[504] most curiously built. The wals of the yard may almost passe
for a miracle because of their curious workmanship and extent. The yards
are no wayes keipt in order. My Lord hes enclosed a wast peice of ground
for a park.
[504] Arched passage.
Nixt morning we went for Dumbarton, having crossed the river 5 long miles
from the Ranfield and 10 from Glasco. Saw on the way Rowlan on our right
hand, Bischopton, Brisbane, Erskin belonging to Hamilton of Orbiston, both
on the other syde of the river. Came throught Kirkpatrick, which is the
great mercat toune of the Hyland kyne; saw Castle Pottage; then by
Dunglasse a ruined castle standing on a litle rock in the Clyde belonging
to Sir John Colquhon of Luz[505]; then by the craig called Dunbuc came to
Dumbarton toune, wheir meet with Walter Watsone, provest of Dumbritton.
Stayed at his brothers: went over to the rock, a most impregnable place as
any part of the world can show. Was so fortunat that Major George Grant was
not their. The gunner went alongs with us and shewed us the cannons, some
Scotes peices, some English, some French, some Flemish, one braze[506] of
34 pound bal taken up out of that ship of the invincible armado which was
cast away on the north of Scotland in the 88. Their was 2 also iron peices
carrieing 32 pound ball, a peice casten in King James the 4't his tyme,
carried with him to Floudoun, and taken then and keipt ay to Charles the
I., his tyme. They call them demy canons, some of one lb, some of 8, some
of 14 lb ball, etc. They have excellent springs of water in many places of
the rock: their ammunition house is almost on the top of it. Of it we saw
my Lord Glencairnes house of residence, also Newwark, and under it the bay
wheir Glasco is building their Port Glasco. Neir to Dumbarton stands
Fulwood belonging to the Sempills. The Levin comes in to the Clyde heir.
The provest heir related to me that merrie passage betuixt Thomas
Calderwood and him. Its a most debaucht hole. Came back that night to the
Ranfield.
[505] Now Luss.
[506] Brass.
Nixt day came to Glasco. That night our horses were arrested and pressed
because of the rumor that ther was a randevouz to be at Loudon hill. Saw
old Robert Cambell and young Robert with their wifes, James Cambel, John
Bell with his wyfe, Barbara Cambel, Colin Maclucas, Daniel Broun, Collonel
Meiren, Sergeant Lauder. Went out and saw Blayswoode,[507] Woodsyde and
Montbodo its house wheir stayes my fathers old landlady. Saw his quarry,
his corne milnes, and his wack[508] milnes. If that of Monbodo wer once
irredimeably his he will have above 50 chalders of wictuall lying their all
togither. On the south of the bridge stands the Gorbbells wheir is the
castle of the Gorbels: in it dwels at present Sir James Turner.
[507] Now Blythswood.
[508] For wauk.
We took horse at the Gallogate to go for Hamiltoun 8 miles from Glascow;
saw Wackingshaw, Kelving Water, the Castle of Bothwell, ruinous, belonging
to the Marquis of Douglas on the Clyde. Over on the other syde stands the
Craig of Blantyre, my Lord Blantyres residence: he has another house called
Cardonald near Renfrew. Then ye come to Bothuel toune, on halfe belonging
to the Marquis and the other to the Duc of Hamilton; then ye come to
Bothuel bridge--six pennies of custome a horseman payes; then a mile from
it stands Hamilton, first the nether toune, then the upper. Many of the
gentlemen of Cliddesdail was their that day at the Duc, as Silvertounhil,
Hages, Master of Carmichaell, Hamilton, Torrance, Stewart Hills,
Castlemilk, Rouchsoles, my Lord Lee which[509] standes within 2 mile of
Lanerk. Lanark is 8 from Hamilton. Went and saw the yards:[510] great
abondance of as good wines,[511] peaches, apricoats, figs, walnuts,
chaistins,[512] philberts, etc., in it as in any part of France; excellent
bon Crestien pears, brave palissades of firs, sundry fisch ponds. The wals
are built of brick, which conduces much to the ripening of the fruits:
their be 20 ackers of land within the yeardes. Their's a fair bouling
graine before the Palace gate. Then went to the wood, which is of a wast
bounds; much wood of it is felled: their be many great oakes in it yet:
rode thorough the lenth of it, it is thought to be 5 miles about. Saw great
droves of heart and hinde with the young roes and faunes in companies of
100 and 60 togither.
[509] Which, _i.e._ Lee. Sir James Lockhart Lord Lee's house.
[510] Yards, enclosed gardens, orchards.
[511] Vines.
[512] Chestnuts. Fr., _Châtains_.