As soon as the poet had done I clapped my hands heartily. His poem and

personality had unusually excited me, because I rarely applaud. I liked

that poet with the intellectual anxiety of his face showing clearly

that he was a little bewildered by that world-moving social shake-up.

That expression was real, more real to me than the automatic enthusiasm

of his fellow poets which seemed to me less sincere. They all jumped

on him. "Alexis, you are not a proletarian poet!" And they criticized

his subject matter. So I asked my interpreter to let me say a word. I

said I thought it was natural for a man who had lived in the country to

express his longing for it, whether he was a bourgeois or a proletarian.

Mayakovsky was then the premier proletarian poet. Chukovsky, the

popular author of _Crocodile_ and other children's books, did not

have the highest opinion of Mayakovsky. He told me that before the

revolution Mayakovsky had been a futurist and that he used to wear

fantastic clothes and had proclaimed his poems at the court of the

Czar. Now Mayakovsky was a thundering proletarian poet. He recited one

of his poems for me. It sounded like the prolonged bellow of a bull. He

very kindly presented me with a signed copy of his latest book. Also

he presented me to his wife, and said that she desired to dance a jazz

with me. She was a handsome woman of an Arctic whiteness and appeared

as if she had just stepped proudly out of a Dostoyevsky novel. We went

to a gypsy cabaret and danced a little, but I am afraid that I did not

measure up to the standard of Aframerican choreography. Mayakovsky told

me that his great ambition was to visit America. I said I thought he

would be a big success there in Russian costume, declaiming his poems

in his trumpet voice.

The contemporary Russian poetry of the period which I liked best

was that of the peasant poet Yessenin. His intimate friend, Zonov,

translated some of his poems, and I was enchanted by their lyric

simplicity and profundity. Zonov was always hoping that Yessenin and I

would meet, but we never did. Just about the time when I disembarked at

Petrograd, Yessenin and Isadora Duncan were landing in New York. And

Yessenin did not return to Russia until after I had left in June of

1923.

Zonov held a place either executive or artistic at the Meyerhold

Theater, which I visited frequently, for there was a congenial gang

there. He often invited me to a private little feast in his den, where

he served sweet Caucasian wine and caviar and sometimes champagne.

Always with him was a little actress whom he fancied, but who did

not seem to love him too much. Zonov looked like a tired professor,

and he was always bewailing the absence of Yessenin. He exhibited a

snapshot of Yessenin that he carried in his pocket book, and I was

startled by its resemblance to the strange dancer I had known in New

York. Zonov said unlovely things of Isadora Duncan, because she had

married Yessenin and taken him from his friends. He said that Yessenin

had proclaimed to them all that he did not love Isadora. But he had

married her to get out of Russia, to see Europe and America. I said I

did not consider love as always necessary, and that sometimes it might

be expedient for a woman to save a man from his male friends. Zonov

translated what I said to the actress and she screamed with laughter.

Meyerhold's was the revolutionary constructivist theater, which did the

most daring things in dramatic production. There were no curtains.

The audience saw clear through to backstage and watched the actors

waiting to take their parts and come up to and retire from the front

of the stage. The plan was novel. Meyerhold himself was a fanatic

crusader in his ardor to make a great revolutionary theater express

the revolutionary social system. All the symbols of the machine system

were assembled on the stage: dynamos, cranes, scaffolding and turbines,

until it resembled a regular workshop. Meyerhold said to me: "We need

now great revolutionary plays and playwrights to make my theater

the unique dramatic expression of the revolution." I had to talk to

Meyerhold through an interpreter, but he impressed me as being more

romantic than practical with his idea of making the stage the unique

expression of the factory. I felt that after all the worker's life is

not limited to the factory and should never be.

I was interested in the Moscow workers' attitude to the Meyerhold

Theater. Whole blocks of seats were given to the factories and the

barracks, but the theater, which was not very large, was never

full. Yet the plays which Meyerhold put on were technically highly

interesting. Vastly exciting to me was the presentation of _The

Inspector General_, by Gogol. And unforgettable was one realistic scene

of another play, in which the Czar was sitting on his chamber pot, with

the imperial crown painted big upon it. But the workers and soldiers

really preferred the ballet of the Bolshoi theater, the Moscow art

theaters, the expressionist theater and the ordinary vulgar theaters.

Whenever the workers received free tickets for the above-named theaters

they never missed; workers and soldiers always filled them. But the

audience of the Meyerhold Theater was of the intelligentsia--students

and professional people. While the workers and soldiers showed a

distinct preference for the straight familiar entertainment, it was

the intelligentsia that was avid of revolutionary drama. The situation

made me think of a Frenchman's saying that most of the work of the

experimental artists was not intended to enlighten the working class,

but to "_épater la bourgeoisie_."

I was invited to dinner by Lunarcharsky, the Commissar of Education

and of Arts. He was one of the most flamboyant orators of the Soviet

Union and also a talented playwright. I told him a little of the little

I knew about education in general in America and Negro education in

particular, and I seized the opportunity to mention the Russian theater

and the theater of Meyerhold. I remarked that it was interesting that

the workers and soldiers seemed to prefer the old ballet to the new

experimental theater. Lunarcharsky said that in the early days of the

revolution some had desired to suppress the ballet, but he had held

out against it. He considered the ballet a great form of art and what

he did was to give the workers and peasants and soldiers the chance to

enjoy it, which they hadn't had under the old régime. He had conserved

and subsidized the best of the classical theaters for the entertainment

of the people. But also he had granted subsidies to the experimental

theaters to give them their chance to experiment in creating their

best. Lunarcharsky was a wise mediator. It is related that when the

Moscow masses, excited to high resentment against the Russian Orthodox

Church, attempted to destroy the wonderful Cathedral of Vasilly

Blazhenny, they were stopped by the intervention of Lunarcharsky. There

was not a day of my stay in Moscow that my eyes failed to be glad in

contemplation of Ivan the Terrible's super-byzantine burnt offering to

humanity. And Lunarcharsky in Moscow appeared like a guardian angel to

me because he had made it possible for my eyes to see that glory.

XVIII

Social Interest

My constant companion and interpreter was Venko, a big, strong,

gloriously boisterous and comparatively young Russian. He had lived

for years in an English Midland town and had left an English wife

and children there to come to Russia after the revolution. The only

sentimental thing in his mind was his family in England. Sometimes he

was perplexed thinking about them. He said he was sure they wouldn't

like living in Russia and he had no desire to return to England. He

was not sentimental about his substitute Russian wife. He said she had

married him only to get good food and a good apartment to live in. He

was of peasant origin and she seemed to be from the poor professional

class. Their living room constantly reminded me of that of the poor

officer in _The Brothers Karamozov_. It was like a seamstress's place,

with a sewing machine installed and scraps of cloth lying carelessly

about, from which one's clothes picked up bits of thread, and it had a

peculiar odor like that of clothes being washed with brown soap. But

she was a good wife. Sometimes I stayed at Venko's house, after we

had finished at a meeting and resorted to a café to drink vodka. And

however late we got there, his wife would get up to serve food.

Venko was an interpreter in the O.G.P.U. He was not connected with

the intelligence work. He didn't like office work. He preferred to

agitate crowds. He was a marvelously gesticulating, noisy and frothy

agitator, but there was not much substance in his phrases. And if you

don't give Russians some meat to chew on when you talk to them, they

soon tire of you, however brilliant your fireworks may be. If you have

something to say they will listen for long hours upon hours, as patient

as sheep, even if you are speaking in a strange language. And afterward

they will ruminate on it with satisfaction through more long hours of

interpreting. Venko was a good enough interpreter. My stay in Moscow

was a vacation for him, of which we made a picnic. He was unorthodox

about life, whether it was old or new, even as I, and he made the most

unguarded and biting criticisms of things and personalities in his

profane and boisterous Russian way.

The Moscow Soviet made me an honorary member at one of its meetings. A

few days later Venko accompanied me to the office of the Soviet, where

I was to receive the little red book that would make me even a more

privileged personage than I was. The card was made out by a comrade

clerk and my photograph was affixed. Then Venko and I were ushered into

the presence of Commissar Kamenev, the president of the Moscow Soviet,

for him to affix his signature.

Kamenev was extremely dignified and perfectly attired in black, with

white collar and black tie, the best-dressed Bolshevik official

(according to the smart European standard) that I had met. He welcomed

me with a courteous smile, signed my card, shook my hand, and said he

was proud to deliver it to me in the name of the Moscow Soviet. Venko

translated. The simplicity of Kamenev's official dignity moved me

very much, for in his fine-fitting conventional clothes, I might have

mistaken him for a responsible banker, or a Protestant clergyman, or a

high-ranking continental diplomat, anything but what Venko startled me

by suggesting.

For as we got outside Venko exploded: "Good God, Comrade! I have seen

the Czar!"

"What do you mean, the Czar?" I said.

"Kamenev in the place of the Czar. The same clothes, the same manner of

wearing his beard! Good God, Comrade, a Jew in the place of the Czar!"

Kamenev's features were indeed remarkably like the Czar's.

"Why, don't you like Jews?" I asked in astonishment. It was the first

anti-Jewish sentiment I had heard from a Russian Communist.

"No, Comrade, I won't lie to you; I don't like Jews."

"Are you a pogromist?" I asked.

"Good God, Comrade, no. I fought the White-guard pogromists in the

Ukraine and was wounded. The White guards started pogroms against the

Jews. I fought them and fought the pogroms too, for pogroms are a crime

against our Communist party. But I don't like the Jews, Comrade. All

the Nep men are Jews."

"All?" I exclaimed.

"Well, if not all, nearly all. And all the money changers of the Black

Bourse are Jews."

I record this conversation because it was one of the impressive

and unforgettable things I heard from a Communist in Russia. I was

particularly impressed because, as a member of a minority group

in America that was the victim of blind and bitter prejudice, I

was interested to know if the prejudice against the Jews had been

automatically swept away with the Czarist régime.

I was interested, because I did not hold to the sentimental idea that

the deep-rooted prejudices of a people could be eradicated overnight.

What the Bolsheviks had accomplished was to put a stop to the vicious

political exploitation of group and race prejudice. I don't think the

saintliest human being could ask more. Individual prejudice is one

of the most natural sentiments. It is easy enough for an individual

prejudice to become a family prejudice, for family ties are real. And

it is also easy for such prejudice to spread to a group, for groups

exist and the majority of human beings are fundamentally tribal.

I was not at all shocked by Venko's revelation. I was merely

enlightened. If he were an intellectual Communist, he could not have

spoken to me as he did. I preferred to go around with him, because I

could learn more.

One evening Zonov invited me to a party which he did not want Venko to

know about, for it was a bourgeois party. The guests were celebrating a

holiday of the old régime which had been abolished by the Bolsheviks.

The party of that little remnant of the Russian bourgeoisie was

something not to be missed. It was even more Russian, noisy, and

elastic than the proletarian parties, for these people did not have to

bother about correct Communist conduct. Maybe there was a flickering

note of futility, of despair, which made them more reckless, because,

unlike the Communists, they had no future. The limited luxury of the

Nep for the moment was theirs to enjoy. And they were giving themselves

to the moment unforgettably, as you might give yourself to a page of

Chekhov.

Russian life seems to blow through space like a big breeze, and this

remnant of a bourgeois society was no less a part of that big breeze.

How they ate and danced and chattered in loud harmony! Two huge fruit

cakes reared themselves like wedding cakes on a sideboard, and there

were platters of caviar, sturgeon, salads, cheeses, every delicious

food to tickle the palate, and gallons of Caucasian wine and vodka to

wash it down.

I was introduced all round as a guest of Russia. They all knew that I

was a guest of the Soviets, and if they wanted to make it a guest of

Russia instead, I had no objection to the added distinction. One very

beautiful and proud-looking young woman got the back of her hand up to

my lips with one of those exquisite gestures that only people who are

born to them can make, I guess.

I made the best bow that was natural to me for that honor. But the

young woman was not satisfied with my bow. She stamped her foot

petulantly, though not unkindly, and rubbed my nose with the perfumed

back of her hand. I was convinced that something more was expected of

me, so I reached up my hand and took hers.

She led me to a seat and said rapidly in a voice that sounded like fine

tinkling glass: "Why did you refuse to kiss my hand? Do you think it

is degrading for a Communist to kiss a lady's hand?" She spoke lovely

English.

"No, _Tovarish_--"

"Please don't call me by that disgusting name," she interrupted. "I am

a _barishna_."

"Well, _Barishna_, then, if that is your preference, I did not kiss

your hand simply because I don't know how to do it well. Nobody I know

kisses hands in America."

The _Barishna_ conceded an indulgent smile. "Tell me," she said, "do

you like our Russia--Moscow and Petrograd?" I said that I did.

"As much as London and Paris and Berlin?" she asked.

I said, "More than London and Berlin. But I do not know Paris."

"I believe you," she said. "I know London and Paris and Berlin, but I

love Petrograd more. Now there is no Petrograd." "But you have Moscow.

Moscow is more beautiful," I said. "Oh, but Petrograd was magnificent

before the revolution." I could never imagine Petrograd being more

beautiful than Moscow, but so many Russians said it was.

Said the _barishna_, "I tell you, I don't like the foreign Communists.

You come here to gaze at us as if we were strange animals in a zoo, to

mock at and insult us in our distress. That is hateful."

"_Barishna_," I said, "I don't understand. What do you mean? The

foreign Communists come here bringing greetings from the workers abroad

to the workers of Russia. They do not come here to mock and insult, but

to praise and learn about the revolution."

"Oh, they do mock at us," she insisted. "My young brother works in one

of the important departments and he heard a foreign Communist boasting

that he had slept all night with a lady of title for ten cents. Now

isn't that a mean and despicable thing to say? If a real man could buy

a lady of quality for ten cents, shouldn't he be ashamed to mention it?"

"I guess so, _Barishna_," I said. "I don't care anything about the

difference between titled and untitled loving."

"But you do think it was an unspeakable thing for a _civilized_ man

to say, don't you?" She stressed the word _civilized_ as if I were a

savage in her sight and she was eager to hear the opinion of a savage

upon a civilized person.

"But, _Barishna_," I said, "the men of your class used to do worse

things than that to the women of the class of the man who said he

possessed a titled lady for ten cents. They did it to weak and ignorant

girls and often didn't even pay the price of ten cents."

"Oh no," said the _barishna_, "no _gentleman_ does that."

"But they do, _Barishna_. Many of your gentlemen still exercise even

the medieval _droits de seigneur_ in a different way. That's what

Tolstoy's _Resurrection_ is all about."

"So you read our Tolstoy? You like our Russian literature? Oh, I am

glad that you do. They have destroyed everything, but they cannot

destroy our Russian literature."

I was very embarrassed. Most of the bourgeois people I had met had

refrained from saying anything against the Communists, even though they

did not praise them. Suddenly the _barishna_ said, "I want to leave

Russia; I have friends in England. Would you marry me so that I could

leave the country with you--just a formal arrangement?" I hesitated and

said that I didn't know that I could.

"But many of the foreigners have married Russian girls and got them

through to Berlin," she said.

"Communists too?" I asked.

"Yes, Communists too."

"_Barishna_," I said, "I am sorry. I couldn't shoulder even the formal

responsibility. And besides, I am not a Communist. I don't even know

yet how I am going to get out of Russia myself."

In my rare contacts with members of the expropriated classes I felt

the weirdest sensations, as if pages out of Tolstoy, Turgenieff,

Dostoyevsky, Artzybashev and Chekhov were suddenly patterned and

peopled with actual life.

* * * * *

Many of the people I knew from the International Club in London were

in Russia, some as visiting delegates, while others were permanently

settled. Arthur McManus was one of the English-speaking delegates whose

company I found congenial, and we were often together, although I found

it difficult to keep up with his gargantuan boozing, which perhaps

finally knocked him out dead. Both of us were guests of the Soviet

fleet at Kronstadt and were photographed together. McManus and I had

our points of difference, and sometimes when we were vodka-heated, our

tongues flew sharply at each other.

McManus was one of the men who had gunned the hardest after Sylvia

Pankhurst. He still felt venomous about her. "Intellectually

dishonest," was his pet phrase for describing her. I said I thought

Sylvia Pankhurst was as honest as any imperial Briton could be. And I

really preferred Pankhurst to persons like Lansbury, and perhaps even

to McManus himself. McManus shot up like a rabbit (he was a tiny man)

and demanded in his remarkably beautiful Glasgow brogue if I meant to

"insinuate" (that was the word he used) that he was an imperialist.

I said that I had not said "imperialist," but "imperial," and that

all Britons were imperial by birth and circumstances because of the

nature of the political set-up of Britain. McManus asked if I did not

believe that there were really radical Britons. I said that no man

can be more radical than his system can stand. McManus said I was a

bloody bigoted black nationalist, and his _b_'s had such a wonderful

ring (he stammered a little) that it made me laugh and laugh until both

of us fell into a prolonged fit of black-and-white laughter. It was a

good satisfying feeling to see McManus laugh aloud, for there was a

perpetually crucified expression on his countenance that all the Scotch

whisky and Russian vodka in the world could not dispel.

McManus did not appear to like my O.G.P.U. friend and companion,

Venko. It was well known among us that Venko was an interpreter and

translator for the O.G.P.U., but had nothing to do with the department

of investigations and arrests. Anyone with a little knowledge of

police organization knows that a police clerk has nothing to do

with the actual duties of policing. If Venko had been a secret agent

of the O.G.P.U. we would never have known that he worked in that

department. And I think I can nose out a secret agent whether he is

red or white. I spent a year of my early youth in a police department

in a position where I was in constant contact with all the branches of

the department. For my part I liked to have Venko along whenever I was

invited to a carousel among Communists. For Venko could beat anybody

carousing and I thought that if any issue were raised about the affair

afterward, Venko would be an excellent asset to have. Whenever I went

on a drinking bout with comrades I always saw that they got drunker

than myself.

It was necessary to do a little thinking while drinking and laughing.

For sometimes funny things happened. Some of the foreign comrades

seemed to enjoy playing at political intrigue, apparently without fully

realizing that political intrigue, to the Russians, was a serious and

dangerous thing. For instance, one of the youthful Indian delegates

occupied a room next to mine, and we often went down to our meals and

also over to the Comintern offices together. One morning when I called

for him his room was locked and there was a seal on the door. The

O.G.P.U. had arrested him during the night. Months later I met him in

Berlin under the most unusual circumstances, which I shall relate in

another place. There was also the young Whitechapel Jew whom I used

to know slightly at the International Club in London. He had come to

Russia as a youth delegate. But he wasn't functioning as anything when

I saw him. He told me fretfully that he had been denounced. One evening

he and I were on our way to a motion picture when a group of armed

police dramatically pounced upon him. They said something in Russian

and he must have answered satisfactorily, for they did not take him.

But he was scared, and said, "I am always scared." Shortly after that

incident he was gone too, and I never saw him again. When I reached

Berlin the following spring I met William Gallacher (now Communist

Member of Parliament) and asked him what had become of the boy. "He was

a spy," Gallacher said, "and he was fixed."

I said angrily, "But what have you in the little British Communist

Party for anybody to spy on?"

"More than you think," said Gallacher, with a mysterious nod of his

friendly head.

One night in Moscow I was invited to a celebration given by a minor

Communist official. The address had been written down for me and I had

to take somebody along to find it, as I did not know my way around

Moscow. So I asked Venko; but first we had to attend a meeting of

women workers at which he interpreted for me and we did not get to

the entertainment until very late. The large apartment was full of

comrades when we got there. I think the man who was throwing the treat

was a Finn and there were many Baltic types there, blonde and heavy of

movement and impassive of spirit. There was plenty of hard drinking,

but it was a dull atmosphere, nothing of the stimulating renascent

effervescence of the _barishna's_ evening. Venko stepped upon the scene

with a burst of boisterous enthusiasm, and drinking a big glass of

vodka, he took the center of the room and started speechifying, saying

there was a time for good comrades to fight, a time to work, and that

now was the time to be festive.

Venko was applauded, and from somewhere McManus came swaying like a

tipsy little imp, and pointing at Venko cried in a chanting voice:

"O.G.P.U.! O.G.P.U.! O.G.P.U.!" Venko laughed, and all of us. For he

and the others thought that McManus was merely putting over a joke

about his working for the O.G.P.U. But then McManus shouted in English,

"Spy! Spy! I am not going to stay here, I am going home. Spy!"

"What do you mean, Comrade?" Venko asked in amazement. "Did I ever spy

on you? Do you want to say that I am here spying on my comrades?" Venko

said something in Russian and everybody looked serious. But McManus

repeated "O.G.P.U. spy! O.G.P.U. spy!" A murderous look took possession

of Venko's face. "Comrade," he cried in a terrible voice, "if you don't

stop, I'll kill you; you hear? You're not drunk and irresponsible.

If you don't stop, I'll hit you, as little as you are." But McManus

shouted again: "O.G.P.U. spy! O.G.P.U.--"

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