Sec. 3

And now from the river-front touching my garden there rises to me a

sound of clapping of hand,--one, two, three, four claps,--but the owner

of the hands is screened from view by the shrubbery. At the same time,

however, I see men and women descending the stone steps of the wharves

on the opposite side of the Ohashigawa, all with little blue towels

tucked into their girdles. They wash their faces and hands and rinse

their mouths--the customary ablution preliminary to Shinto prayer. Then

they turn their faces to the sunrise and clap their hands four times and

pray. From the long high white bridge come other clappings, like

echoes, and others again from far light graceful craft, curved like

new moons--extraordinary boats, in which I see bare-limbed fishermen

standing with foreheads bowed to the golden East. Now the clappings

multiply--multiply at last into an almost continuous volleying of sharp

sounds. For all the population are saluting the rising sun, O-Hi-San,

the Lady of Fire--Ama-terasu-oho-mi-Kami, the Lady of the Great Light.

[3] 'Konnichi-Sama! Hail this day to thee, divinest Day-Maker! Thanks

unutterable unto thee, for this thy sweet light, making beautiful the

world!' So, doubt-less, the thought, if not the utterance, of countless

hearts. Some turn to the sun only, clapping their hands; yet many turn

also to the West, to holy Kitzuki, the immemorial shrine and not a few

turn their faces successively to all the points of heaven, murmuring

the names of a hundred gods; and others, again, after having saluted the

Lady of Fire, look toward high Ichibata, toward the place of the great

temple of Yakushi Nyorai, who giveth sight to the blind--not clapping

their hands as in Shinto worship, but only rubbing the palms softly

together after the Buddhist manner. But all--for in this most antique

province of Japan all Buddhists are Shintoists likewise--utter the

archaic words of Shinto prayer: 'Harai tamai kiyome tamai to Kami imi

tami.'

Prayer to the most ancient gods who reigned before the coming of the

Buddha, and who still reign here in their own Izumo-land,--in the Land

of Reed Plains, in the Place of the Issuing of Clouds; prayer to the

deities of primal chaos and primeval sea and of the beginnings of the

world--strange gods with long weird names, kindred of U-hiji-ni-no-Kami,

the First Mud-Lord, kindred of Su-hiji-ni-no-Kanii, the First Sand-Lady;

prayer to those who came after them--the gods of strength and beauty,

the world-fashioners, makers of the mountains and the isles, ancestors

of those sovereigns whose lineage still is named 'The Sun's Succession';

prayer to the Three Thousand Gods 'residing within the provinces,' and

to the Eight Hundred Myriads who dwell in the azure

Takamano-hara--in the blue Plain of High Heaven.

'Nippon-koku-chu-yaoyorozu-no-Kami-gami-sama!'

Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan: First Series · 第 77 / 222 题