CHAPTER VI

SOUTHWARK, OLD AND NEW

"The Thames marks the sharp division between what Lord

Beaconsfield called 'the two nations.' On one side we have

our nearest English approach to architectural magnificence;

on the other there is a long perspective of squalid

buildings--smoke-begrimed, half-ruinous, and yet not

altogether unlovely."--_Magazine of Art_, January, 1884.

"Befel, that in that season, on a day

In Southwark at the Tabard as I lay,

Ready to wenden on my pilgrimage

To Canterbury with ful devout courage,

At night was come into that hostelry

Well nine-and-twenty in a company

Of sundry folk, by adventure y-fall

In fellowship, and pilgrims were they all,

That toward Canterbury woulden ride."

--_Chaucer: Canterbury Tales._

Near to the fishy and noisy purlieus of the "Monument," London Bridge

crosses the river into Southwark.

London Bridge is the terminus for big ships; from its parapet is seen,

as far as the misty Tower Bridge, a vast city of masts, sails, and

wharves. Big steamers often make this their starting-point for

excursions, and sails of Venetian colour charm the eye. In cold

winters the sea-gulls, flying hither in myriads from the icy North

Seas, come to the Londoner's call, sure of food and welcome, filling

grey sky and silvery river with an ever-changing constellation of

white wings; "a blaze of comet splendour." Wild birds, like children,

know their friends. The sea-gull's wide, downward swoop, so powerful

and so graceful, may be watched here in January from early morn to

dusk; the creatures, poised in serried ranks on the barges and stone

piers, are just as much at home here as on their own northern

pinnacles, and after long sojourn, they become so tame that they will

almost feed from the stranger's hand. It is only, however, during the

severe weather that the sea-gulls' visit lasts; with the first warm

February days they are off again, speeding down the river to their

native haunts.

Close to the foot of London Bridge, on the Southwark side, is the fine

cruciform church of St. Saviour's, lately restored on the lines of the

ancient edifice. This church, which had formerly been much mutilated

by careless and tasteless "restorers," was in long past times the

Norman Priory of St. Mary Overy, and its old nave, of which the

fragments may yet be seen, was built in 1106 by Gifford, Bishop of

Winchester. A century later, another Bishop built the choir and Lady

Chapel, and altered the character of the nave from Norman to Early

English. Then, at the Dissolution, St. Mary Overy was made into a

parish church by Henry VIII., and since 1540, it has been known as

"St. Saviour's." The early Saxon dedication to "St. Mary Overy"

commemorates the romantic story of the rich old ferryman's lovely

daughter, of pre-Conquest times, who, losing her lover by a fall from

his horse, retired into a cloister for life, devoting her paternal

wealth to the founding of a priory. The story is charming, but

somewhat misty; it suggests, however, the advantages accruing to

ferrymen when there were no bridges on the Thames! An ancient,

nameless, ghoul-like figure, in St. Saviour's Church, is still pointed

out as the old ferryman, father of the foundress; but this is probably

traditional. Skeleton-like figures, not representing any one in

particular, were not infrequently placed about in mediaeval churches;

in order, perhaps, to bring the congregation to a sufficiently sober

frame of mind, as well as to recall to them their latter end.

St. Saviour's, as it is now, is one of the most striking churches in

London; its interior appeals at once to the eye and to the

imagination. The long aisles are restful and harmonious; the

Early-English architecture is severely pure; the fine effect of the

beautifully-restored nave and transepts is not, as too often in

Westminster Abbey, spoiled by the introduction of ornate tombs and

sprawling angels. The church, restored by Blomfield in 1890-96, is

already a collegiate church, and is worthy to become, as it probably

will, the cathedral for South London. Its level, as is the case with

many ancient buildings, is now considerably lower than the surrounding

ground; a fact testified by the steps necessary to descend into its

precincts from the street, and by the very unpoetic railway, carried

well above it and its adjoining vegetable market (the Borough Market).

For this is a strangely busy and noisy spot to have sheltered for so

long this relic of the Middle Age.

The tombs in the church are mainly in the transepts, and are nearly

all of them interesting. The finely-restored "Lady Chapel," behind the

altar, contains the tomb of Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of Winchester,

with a long Latin inscription of 1626; a recumbent painted effigy, on

a black-and-white marble tomb. This Lady Chapel has tragic

associations; it was used in the time of "Bloody Mary" as the

Consistorial Court of Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester; and here those

sturdy martyrs, Bishop Hooper and John Rogers, Vicar of St.

Sepulchre's, were condemned to be burnt (the popular feeling for

Rogers being such as necessitated his removal by night secretly to

Newgate).

The most famous grave in St. Saviour's is that of John Gower, the

fourteenth-century poet, and friend of Chaucer. Here, near the east

end of the north wall of the nave, the effigy of the poet, painted,

like that of Lancelot Andrewes, a figure of striking beauty, lies on a

sarcophagus under a rich gabled canopy. Stow thus describes the

monument:

"He lieth under a tomb of stone, with his image, also of

stone, over him; the hair of his head, auburn, long to his

shoulders but curling up, and a small forked beard; on his

head a chaplet like a coronet of four roses; a habit of

purple, damasked down to his feet; a collar of esses gold

about his neck; under his head the likeness of three books

which he compiled."

Gower was a rich man for a poet, and gave large sums in his time for

the rebuilding of the church; hence was written the following epigram:

"This church was rebuilt by John Gower, the rhymer,

Who in Richard's gay court was a fortunate climber;

Should any one start, 'tis but right he should know it,

Our wight was a lawyer as well as a poet."

Gower's three chief works, on which his head rests, are his _Vox

Clamantis_, _Speculum Meditantis_, and _Confessio Amantis_.

Many other curious tombs and epitaphs are in this church. One,

especially, of the latter, a tablet to a little girl of ten, Susanna

Barford,--a child the "Non such of the world for piety and vertue in

soe tender yeares,"--tells how:

"Such grace the King of Kings bestow'd upon her

That now shee lives with him a maid of honour."

And in the north transept, there is a curious monument to Dr. Lionel

Lockyer, the pill inventor--a large bewigged, reclining figure of

Charles II.'s time--suffering, apparently, despite his infallible

nostrums, from terrible internal spasms. Perhaps, however, these may

bear some mystic reference to the long accompanying epitaph about

"undying Pills," showing that already in the seventeenth century

advertisement could be strong even in death! Close to Lockyer's tomb

are heaped up a number of strange wooden painted gargoyles or

"bosses," preserved and brought here from the fallen-in

fifteenth-century roof of the nave, some of them bearing most weird

devices. One, conceived apparently in the Dantesque spirit, represents

a giant, or devil, "champing" a half-eaten sinner,--the lower half of

whom, dressed in gaudy colours, projects from the large vermilion

mouth,--in great enjoyment. Other "bosses" show the curious painted

"rebuses" of the period, commemorating a prior's name. The

seventeenth-century monument to the Austin family, also in this

transept, is full of quaint imagery and symbolism. The figures of its

sleeping angels with winnowing-forks, waiting on each side for the

great final harvest, are full of beauty.

"Edmund Shakespear, player," and brother of the poet,--Fletcher,--and

Massinger,--are buried here; three stones in the choir bear their

names; the exact place of their graves is not known.

The church is now well-kept and carefully tended; it is open daily to

the visitor, who may walk about it without let or hindrance. Like so

many other London churches, it has in its time suffered less from the

depredations of the plunderer than from those of the more dangerous

"restorer." As usual, a long period of neglect and decay was followed

by iconoclastic cleaning and setting in order. Generally, for a

considerable time after the Dissolution, the convent churches and

others were left to the tender mercies of the parishioners, who,

naturally, could not always afford to keep them in proper condition;

then abuses crept in, thefts took place; and the disused churches, as

St. Paul's itself, were often degraded to stables, or used as storage

for litter. Then, after long years, the authorities, perhaps, came to

the rescue, and, turning out the encroaching and invading devils, let

in other devils far more wicked, in the shape of so-called

"restorers." Wonder, indeed, is it that so much is left to us! The

"restorers" usually began by whitewashing all the columns of dark

Purbeck marble, blackening the effigies into one uniform tint, and

covering the discoloured carvings of the walls with stucco, for the

better reception of which they even (as may be seen at St. Saviour's)

whittled away bits of fine stone sculpture.

To wander down the "Borough" High Street--that noisy and essentially

modern district,--in search of Chaucer's famous inns, is, alas! more

dispiriting than looking for traces of Dido among the ruins of

Carthage. Here, one can neither look for ghosts, nor feelings of the

past; all is hopelessly covered up and hidden by ugly modern inns,

more ugly modern shops, palaces of modern plate-glass public-houses,

triumphs of early nineteenth-century ugliness in architecture. What

chance, among such, have the poor wandering ghosts of a famous past?

And, since London Bridge, that natural dividing-line of peoples, was

passed, have not the very streets changed in some subtle and

unconscious manner, to a more sordid character; the shops to a more

blatant kind,--even the people to a different and lower type? It may

be partly fancy; yet, is not this often the effect produced by the

"Surrey side"? The big thoroughfare called the Borough High Street, or

more simply, the "Borough"--(this part of Southwark has fairly earned

the right to be called the "Borough," having returned two members to

Parliament for 500 years),--this was the great highway, even in Roman

times, between the city and the southern counties. East of the

Borough, the long, narrow, busy, dirty Tooley Street leads to

Bermondsey; this street is famous for its "three tailors" of the

political legend, according to which they addressed the House of

Commons as "We, the People of England." Here, from mediaeval days, was

the only bridge; here, therefore, were, naturally, stationed all the

mediaeval inns and hostelries. This way did the "Canterbury Pilgrims"

pass out of London; here they would stop and refresh themselves at the

"Tabard," the "White Hart," and their compeers.... What now remains of

these? The "Tabard," rebuilt in Charles II.'s time, and for long the

finest old house of its kind in London, was burnt down in 1873; it now

only exists in its name, still flaunted bravely above a commonplace

modern inn. The "Queen's Head," the "White Hart," the "King's Head,"

exist now only as hideous railway-yards or equally hideous modern

edifices; the only remaining relic of them all is the "George" Inn,

where a solitary fragment, a long block of ancient buildings, with

picturesque, sloping, dormer roofs, and balustraded wooden galleries,

is yet, by the mercy of the Great Northern Railway Company, spared to

us, to tell of its former glories. The present hosts of the

"George,"--two ladies,--are pleasant, hospitable people, and their

small, dark, panelled rooms are clean and comfortable. They seem,

however, to entertain a mild feeling of boredom for the constant

accession of reverent pilgrims who flock annually to their shrine.

"And it's only for the last few years," the younger lady remarks,

somewhat sadly, "only since the last inn, the 'Queen's Head,' you know

was pulled down, that so many people have come. A great many Americans

... oh, I suppose they come out of curiosity, like; one can't blame

'em. Do people stay here in the summer? Yes, a good few--some business

men, but mostly artists and tourists; it's just curiosity. Then, it's,

'Would you mind if I take a photograph?' or 'Have I your leave to sit

in the yard and sketch?' Do I let them do it?... oh, yes" (with a

sigh), "it doesn't matter to me. I suppose they may be going to put it

in some book or some article; but it's nothing to me.... I never read

the article!"

[Illustration: _Cricket in the Street. The lost Ball._]

If this lady be not a cynic, she at any rate embodies a great deal of

the philosophy of life!

What the other Inns were like, can be more or less seen from this

small portion of one. They have mostly vanished with the march of

progress of recent years, for fifty years ago Dickens could still

write:

"In the Borough there still remain some half-dozen old inns

which have preserved their external features unchanged.

Great rambling queer old places, with galleries and passages

and staircases wide enough and antiquated enough to furnish

materials for a hundred ghost stories."

At the old "White Hart," now destroyed, Dickens first introduced to

the world the immortal Sam Weller, as he appeared cleaning the

spinster aunt's boots after that sentimental lady's elopement with the

deceiving Mr. Jingle. These old inns, in the heyday of their prime,

were made still more famous by the open-air theatrical representations

that took place in their balconied courtyards. Toil and trouble, the

eternal struggle-for-life, may be the portion of "the Surrey Side"

to-day, but in Shakespeare's time it was principally noted for its

amusements and its junketings. Now, the chief buildings of Southwark

and Walworth are gaols and asylums, and its best-known localities are

the omnibus terminuses, dignified mysteriously by names of

public-houses,--such as the "Elephant," &c. Even the dramatic tastes

of the people "over the water" are now supposed to be primitive; and

"transpontine" is the adjective applied to melodrama that is too crude

for the superior taste of northern London. Yet here, in Shakespeare's

day, were all the most fashionable theatres--theatres, too, frequented

by all the literary and dramatic lights of the day. Here stood that

small martello-tower-like theatre, the "Globe," the "round wooden 'O'"

alluded to in _Henry V._, where Shakespeare and his companions played;

here also were the "Rose," the "Hope," and the "Swan." And below St.

Saviour's, and its neighbouring Bishops' Palace and park, were the

localities known as "Bankside" and "Paris Garden," the former famous

for its bull and bear-baiting ("a rude and nasty pleasure," says

Pepys), the latter for its theatre, and also for its somewhat

doubtful reputation. There were, of course, a few plague-spots,

inseparable from places of public amusement; but the Southwark of

Elizabeth's day was a centre of national jollity and merry-making.

Open gardens fringed the river-banks, by which flowed a clear and yet

unsullied Thames, and their salubrious walks were the favourite resort

of citizens. Certainly, Shakespeare and his associates would hardly

recognize Southwark now: Messrs. Barclay and Perkins's famous brewery

now covers the site of the Globe Theatre; the ancient gardens have

given place to wharves and warehouses; the fashionable promenade to

railway lines and goods offices; the green turfy banks to streets and

lanes of sticky Southwark mud. And Southwark mud is surely of a quite

peculiar stickiness! The big brewery, covering some twelve acres, is

not exactly an improvement on the landscape. It belonged, in 1758, to

Mr. Thrale, husband of the witty lady whom Johnson loved as a

daughter. And though some among us have, as Dr. Johnson prophesied at

the sale of the brewery in its early days, "grown rich beyond the

dreams of avarice," yet the source of riches is seldom in itself

beautifying.

Winchester House, the ancient palace of the Bishops of Winchester,

stood in Tudor days between St. Saviour's and the river; "a very fair

house, with a large wharf and a landing-place." Here Bishop Gardiner

lived in great state, and here, to please his patron the Duke of

Norfolk, he arranged "little banquets at which it was contrived that

Henry VIII. should meet the Duke's niece, Katherine Howard, then a

'lovely girl in her teens.'" Poor thing! in a short year or two her

head was destined to fall, by the headsman's axe, within the precincts

of the gloomy Tower, on the river's opposite bank! The extent of the

old palace is uncertain; its remains are now nearly all destroyed,

except an old window and arch, built up into the surrounding

warehouses. The name, however, of the "Clink," the prison used by the

Bishops for the punishment of heretics, still exists in the modern

Clink Street. In the same way, "Mint Street," Borough, recalls an

ancient and forgotten mint, established here by Henry VIII. for

coinage; and Lant Street--but Lant Street recalls nothing so much as

Dickens, and his creation Mr. Bob Sawyer. Dickens lived in Lant Street

himself as a boy, while his insolvent family were rusticating in the

neighbouring Marshalsea; hence he knew it well.

[Illustration: _A County Court._]

"A bed and bedding" (he writes) "were sent over for me"

(from the Marshalsea), "and made up on the floor. The little

window had a pleasant prospect of a timber-yard; and when I

took possession of my new abode, I thought it was a

Paradise."

"The Crown Revenues," Dickens further adds (in describing the abode

of Mr. Bob Sawyer), "are seldom collected in this happy valley; the

rents are dubious, and the water communication is very frequently cut

off."

If Southwark contained many doubtful characters in Shakespeare's time,

it contains, as Mr. Charles Booth's book shows us, some "black spots"

of crime still! The old Marshalsea and the King's Bench Prisons must

always have been a centre of drifting and shiftless population. All

parts of the "Borough" do not enjoy a thoroughly good reputation; bad

sanitation, overcrowding, all the worst sins of the much-abused "East

End," may here too be seen. "Is any one," asks a recent writer, "ever

young in the Borough? Is not carking care their birthright?" In

crowded Southwark and Walworth, round the "Elephant,"--the mysterious

"Elephant," to which all roads lead,--"aflare, seething, roaring with

multitudinous life," are miserable human rabbit-warrens, where they

even live ten in a room. "Pore, sir," cries Mrs. Pullen (one of the

submerged), "pore! why, the Mint, sir, the Mint, sir, is known for it;

you've 'erd on it your ways, ain't you?" Mrs. Pullen held up her hands

and laughed, as if she was really proud of "the Mint and its poverty."

But, though the Borough children--poor little wastrels--are still

wild,--Education, it seems, is slowly taming them.

Those who are interested in the children of the poor,--and who is

not?--should read Mr. Charles Morley's sympathetic "Studies in Board

Schools," a considerable portion of which refers to Walworth and the

Borough. The redeeming of the infant population of London is surely a

noble work, and nowhere are the parental methods of the Board Schools

so well set forth as in that delightful volume, real with the reality

of life, and, like life itself, something between laughter and tears.

Life has few mysteries for the Borough child, whose garments are

strange and weird, whose voice "soon loses any infantine sweetness it

may possess. Some of the ragged mites of girls of the Borough will

even rap out an oath which would shock your ears who live over the

water. But they mean nothing. It is like sailors' language, only sound

and a little temper. Why, even the chirrup of the Borough sparrow has

a minatory ring about it." Mr. Morley goes on to tell of a kindly

institution dubbed "the Farm House" (strange name in such

surroundings!), where, owing to Mr. G. R. Sims and the "Referee," six

or seven hundred hungry school-children are, like the sparrows and

sea-gulls, fed daily during the long winter:

"The Farm House" (he says), "is a strange mansion to find in

the heart of the Marshalsea--just over the way is the site

of the famous prison. The graveyard of St. George the Martyr

is now a public garden, grim enough, to be sure, with its

black tombstones and soot-laden balsam poplars. On one of

the walls is placed a board on which is printed the legend:

'This stands on the site of the Marshalsea Prison described

(or words to this effect) in Charles Dickens's well-known

novel, _Little Dorrit_.' The Farm House was once the town

dwelling of the Earls of Winchester. It has an ancient

time-worn front, a court, mysterious chambers, old oak

panels upon which you can just make out some of the old

Winchester ladies and gentlemen; a curious old staircase;

and I daresay a ghost or two if one went into the matter.

But for a long time past it has been a common lodging-house.

Beds in a haunted chamber may be had at fourpence a night.

Many a strange history could those white-washed walls tell

if they could speak, I dare say--of the good old days in

Henry the Eighth's time, and even of more recent years. Many

a man who began life with the hopefullest prospects has been

glad to hide his head in the old Farm House, down Marshalsea

way, Borough."

"Misery," continues this writer, "is strangely prolific; every hovel,

every court, every alley teems with children," "little mothers"

carrying heavy babies, like Miss Dorothy Tennant's tender picture, _A

Load of Care_ ... that heavy, heavy baby, weighing down that tiny,

tiny nurse.... _Nota Bene_: There always _is_ a baby. By the time a

little wool appears on the head of number one, number two appears, and

so on--well, nearly _ad infinitum_. There is no doubt whatever that

babies are the bugbears of the Borough ratepayers."

The Board Schools in these districts teach, it appears, not only "the

three R's," but also housewifery, house-cleaning, cooking, and other

most necessary accomplishments:

"Housewifery" (says Mr. Morley) "is the birthright of the

children of the poor.... Every mite of a girl down in the

East or South ... is a housewife by the time she is six....

Often enough when times are hard and funds very low--when

father is out o' work, and mother's bad in bed--does the

poor little mother set forth with scrubbing-brush in hand,

and clean the door-steps of the prosperous for twopence or

threepence, according to the size and number of the steps.

She probably lights the fire of a morning; it is her delight

to go shopping to the remarkable establishment where most of

the necessities of life are to be obtained by the

farthing's-worth; and with the mysteries of marketing she is

very well acquainted indeed. You should just see her in

Bermondsey, the Walworth Road, the Dials, the New Cut, or

Whitechapel on a Sunday morning, when these localities are

alive with poor people buying their dinners. Road and

footpath are blocked with stalls and barrows, and flesh,

fish, fowl and vegetables are all jumbled together in

confusion that is apparently inextricable. But little mother

knows her way about, and whether it is red meat or white

meat, beef, mutton or rabbit, trust her for getting a

bargain, for keeping a sharp eye on weight and measure. A

farden is a farden in districts where a penny is a

substantial coin of the realm."

The "Surrey Side" is noted for its hospitals, as well as its prisons

and its slums; and of these "Guy's Hospital," on the left of the

Borough High Street,--an eighteenth-century foundation, due to the

wealth of a Lombard Street bookseller named Thomas Guy,--is one of the

most important. This Guy was in his way a miser, and his savings were

vastly increased by dealings in South Sea stock,--showing that some

good, at any rate, was wrought by the terrible "Bubble" that ruined so

many thousands. Yet the hospital narrowly escaped losing the rich

man's bequest. He was on the point of marrying his pretty maid, Sally,

when, his bride offending him by officious interference, he broke off

the marriage, and endowed the present hospital with his great wealth.

A blackened brass statue of the founder stands in the courtyard of the

edifice.

If Chaucer, with his ever memorable _Canterbury Pilgrims_, did much to

immortalise the Southwark of mediaeval times, Dickens, the child of a

later era, has done at least as much for the Southwark of his day. In

the Borough High Street, close to the site of the demolished

Marshalsea Prison, stands St. George's Church, chiefly remarkable for

the fact that Dickens has here placed the marriage of his heroine,

"Little Dorrit," the Child of the Marshalsea. This was always a

district of prisons; the natural sequence, one would think, of

Southwark merry-making. Of the two Marshalsea prisons established here

at different times, the earlier, nearer to London Bridge, was

abolished in 1849; the later, so graphically described by Dickens, was

not pulled down till 1887, after having been let for forty years as a

lodging for tramps and vagabonds. Relics of it are now hard to find.

Dickens, who knew it well as a boy, thus describes (in the preface to

_Little Dorrit_) his search for it in later life:

"I found the outer front courtyard metamorphosed into a

butter shop; and I then almost gave up every brick of the

jail for lost. Wandering, however, down a certain adjacent

'Angel Court, leading to Bermondsey,' I came to Marshalsea

Place, the houses in which I recognized, not only as the

great block of the former prison, but as preserving the

rooms that arose to my mind's eye when I became Little

Dorrit's biographer.... Whoever goes into Marshalsea Place,

turning out of Angel Court, leading to Bermondsey, will find

his feet on the very paving-stones of the extinct Marshalsea

jail; will see its narrow yard to the right and to the left,

very little altered if at all, except that the walls were

lowered when the place got free; will look upon the rooms in

which the debtors lived; will stand among the crowding

ghosts of many miserable years."

Dickens's boyish recollections of the ancient debtors prison have, as

was perhaps natural, sometimes more than a tinge of bitterness; here

he passed to and fro during wretched childish years, between the daily

drudgery of covering blacking pots at "Murdstone and Grinby's," down

by Hungerford Stairs. More wretched, indeed, far, than any modern

Borough waif, was this neglected and sensitive child of genius. The

intense torture of his degradation (as he thought it) was never wholly

forgotten. In this connection he tells (in Forster's _Life_) a

pathetic little story. No boy at the blacking office, it seems, knew

where or how he lived; and once, being taken ill there, and helped

towards home by a kindly fellow-worker, the child Dickens said

good-bye to his friend by Southwark Bridge:

"I was too proud" (he says) "to let him know about the

prison; and after making several efforts to get rid of him,

to all of which Bob Fagin in his goodness was deaf, shook

hands with him on the steps of a house near Southwark-bridge

on the Surrey side, making believe that I lived there. As a

finishing piece of reality in case of his looking back, I

knocked at the door, I recollect, and asked, when the woman

opened it, if that was Mr. Robert Fagin's house."

While the boy suffered thus acutely, his father lived on in a

Micawberish way at the Marshalsea, being merely of the amiable,

shiftless, idle genus that drags its family down. For the rest, they

did well enough at the Marshalsea: "The family," the son wrote, "lived

more comfortably in prison than they had done for a long time out of

it. They were waited on still by the maid-of-all-work from Bayham

Street, the orphan girl from Chatham workhouse, from whose sharp

little worldly, yet also kindly, ways I took my first impressions of

the "Marchioness" in _The Old Curiosity Shop_."

Yet Destiny works in strange and devious ways, and all the while, if

he had only known it, the Fates were conspiring for Charles Dickens's

good. It was the father's misfortunes that really taught the boy all

he needed to learn. Here, amid the unsavoury purlieus of the prison,

he unconsciously studied all the types and localities of which he was

to make such wonderful use in after-life. The Marshalsea and its ways;

Lant Street and Bob Sawyer; "Tip," "of the prison prisonous, and of

the streets streety"; Sam Weller at the "White Hart;" Nancy at London

Bridge Steps; Sikes and Folly Ditch; with a hundred others,--were,

more or less, to be the outcome of that time.

The glamour of a romantic past, the spirit of Chaucer and of

Shakespeare, may still attach to Southwark; the playhouses and

gaieties of Elizabeth's time may yet leave some faint record there;

but it is, after all, by another of Fate's strange ironies, the Child

of the Marshalsea, the boy brought up in wretchedness and squalor, who

has glorified by his genius the place, the whole district, where he so

suffered in early youth. Other and greater men have told London's

history in the past; but Dickens, whose grave is still faithfully

tended in Westminster Abbey while those of the mightier dead are long

forgotten, Dickens, who cared everything for the lower, warmer phases

of humanity; Dickens, to whom every grimy London stone was dear, and

every dirty cockney child a creature of infinite possibilities;

Dickens, whose name will be ever dear to the faithful Londoner; is the

modern chronicler of the great city.

Highways and Byways in London · 第 6 / 18 章