and the Provincial Town, and falls into the Gulf of _Urraba_, being a
large Arm of the Sea, eight Leagues over at the Mouth thereof. 2. _Rio
de las Redas_, which runs in like manner through the Province of _Nova
Andaluzia_, and falls also into the same Gulf. So likewise doth 3. _Rio
de la Trepadera._ 4. _Corobaci._ 5. _Beru_, chiefly remarkable upon this
Consideration, that some curious Etymologists have endeavor’d to derive
the Name of _Peru_ from this River, by the alteration onely of the
initial Letter.
[Sidenote: Places of chief note.]
The chief, and indeed the onely Town of this Tract is _Darien_, built as
aforesaid by _Encisus_, a _Spanish_ Adventurer, and by him call’d _St.
Maria Antiqua_, and by others _The Antique of Darien_, being one of the
first Towns that were built by the _Spaniards_ on the firm Land; though
there are who make mention of two other small Towns or Villages, the one
nam’d at least, if not built by the _Spaniards_, viz. _Los Angelos_,
scarce inhabited at present by any but the Salvages; the other an
antient Town of the Natives, call’d _Bizu_.
SECT. IV.
New Andaluzia.
[Sidenote: Description of _New Andaluzia_.]
Eastward of _Darien_ and the Gulf of _Urraba_, lieth the Countrey of
_New Andaluzia_, otherwise call’d _Carthagena_, from the Name of its
principal City: On the East it hath the Countrey call’d _St. Martha_; on
the North, the Main Ocean; and _New Granada_ towards the South. It is
for the most part a Mountainous Countrey, and full of Woods, which they
say yield abundance of Rozen, Gums, and some very good Balsams; also a
sort of Long-pepper, much sharper than that of _East-India_. But the
Plains, by reason of much Rain, to which the Countrey is subject,
especially for some times of the year, of but a spewy and cold Soil. The
_Spaniards_ at their first coming found it a rich Countrey, not so much
from the Nature and Profits of the Soil (though it be said to have some
Mines in it, and those of Gold) but by reason of a certain Opinion and
Respect, which the _Americans_ of these Parts are generally said to have
born towards this Countrey, insomuch that they would be brought and
buried there from other Places very remote; and according to the Custom
of the Countrey, not without good store of Gold and other Jewels,
according to the Quality and Condition of the Person that was buried; of
which the _Spaniards_ soon gain’d Intelligence, and in ransacking the
Graves and Monuments of the Dead, are suppos’d to have found an infinite
Mass of Treasure: but those Mines are long since exhausted.
[Sidenote: Nature and Customs of the antient Inhabitants.]
The Inhabitants of old suffer’d great prejudice by Tygers and Serpents;
yet nevertheless this Countrey was very populous before the _Spaniards_
arrival here; the Natives wore Cotton Aprons before, and Golden Rings
about their Arms and Legs, as also Strings of Pearl, and the like. The
Women here, as in the rest of these Parts, went with their Husbands into
the Wars, and behav’d themselves valiantly, shooting poyson’d Arrows,
insomuch that _Martin Ambesus_ took a Maid, _Anno 1509._ who had kill’d
twenty eight _Spaniards_.
[Sidenote: The Countrey _Urraba_.]
To the Province _Carthagena_ belongs also the Countrey _Urraba_, which
is so fruitful, that all kind of _Spanish_ Trees and Seeds grow better
here than in _Spain_: Besides which it hath its own Fruit, as also
abundance of Pine and Palm-Trees, whose Leaves serve for Brooms. The
_Guaiana_-Tree bears a sharp kind of Fruit like a Lemmon, the
_Guaravana_ a kind of Cittrons, the _Mameisa_ a Fruit not unlike an
Orange, but tasting like a Melon, and the _Hovos_ a great Plum.
Their Gardens abound with the Root _Batata_, whose Leaves send forth
several Strings, which over-spreading the Ground fasten in the Earth,
and take new Roots; it is yellow without, and whitish within, and bears
pale green Flowers, which at last turn to a Cod full of Seed. These
Roots roasted in hot Ashes, exceed our _European_ Turnip; and beaten and
put in Water till it works over, makes a Drink, with which the _Indians_
Drink and Carouse till they are Drunk.
[Illustration: CARTAGENA]
[Sidenote: A strange Beast.]
Moreover, _Urraba_ abounds in Venison, Fish, and all sorts of ravenous
Creatures, as Tygers, Lyons, and a particular strange Beast as big as an
Ox, having an Elephants Nose, Horses Feet, and hanging Ears.
The Trees likewise swarm with Birds; and especially near Lakes or Pools
breed Pheasants and Parrots, of which some are bigger than Capons,
others no bigger than Chickens.
[Sidenote: The Mountain _Abibe_.]
Against _Urraba_ juts the Mountain _Abibe_, whose length Westward
remains unknown; the breadth thereof in some places is about twenty
Leagues; it hath many Ways which cannot be travell’d with Horses. The
top of this Mountain is uninhabited; but along the Valleys, which are
many and large, dwelt formerly a People that possess’d great Riches in
Gold, which they gather’d out of Rivulets that fell Westward from the
tops of the Mountains. It Rains here almost all the year long, which
makes the Ways very bad for Travellers to pass.
At the Foot of this Mountain, towards the South, lie two small antient
Casiquedoms, if we may so call them, formerly inhabited by a valiant
People, call’d _Tarabe de Zenu_, whether chiefly the dead Bodies were
brought from all the adjacent Countreys, to be buried in great State, as
hath been before intimated.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of principal note.]
[Sidenote: The Description of _Carthagena_.]
The principal Towns and Places of note are 1. _Carthagena_, (so call’d
either from the resemblance of its Situation with the City _Carthagena_
in the Kingdom of _Murcia_ belonging to _Old Spain_, or because the
first Inhabitants were Citizens of the said City) which was begun to be
built _Anno 1532._ by _Peter de Heredia_, but fully finished by _Georgio
Robledo_, eight years after the first Foundation thereof was laid. This
Episcopal Metropolis is on the North wash’d by the North Sea over a
plain shallow Ground; on the Land side the Sea flows through a narrow
Bay by the City towards the Lake _Canupote_, which ebbs and flows equal
with the Ocean, and receives and discharges its Water through two Pipes
which lie under a long Bridge, joyning _Carthagena_ to the Main Coast.
This City boasted long since above five hundred Stone Houses, being
divided into twenty six large Streets, whereof four are six hundred and
twenty Paces long: behind each House is a Garden; and the Church appears
above all the other Buildings: The _Dominicans_ Cloyster is also fairly
built; neither is the _Franciscans_ inferior to it, who also possess a
second Edifice on the Main Continent over the Bridge. The Custom-house
and Court where the Courts for the whole Province of _Carthagena_ are
kept, are also stately Structures. The Haven hath two Entrances, the
chiefest whereof lies half a League Eastward from the City, and the
Western, call’d _La Boca_, is as far again; both very dangerous, because
of the many blind Rocks that lie before them. _Anno 1585._ when Sir
_Francis Drake_ took _Carthagena_ by Storm, the whole was fortifi’d with
Sconces, besides two Forts for the better security thereof, whereof one
lock’d up the narrow Mouth of the Haven with a strong Chain; not far
from which stood an Abbey, Dedicated to the _Franciscans_, and Wall’d
round about; since which they have several Out-works, Forts and Towers,
to prevent all foreign Invasions. The City grows wealthy daily by the
_Peruan_ Plate-Fleet putting in there before they go to _Spain_, and
especially by the Trade from _New Granada_ along the River _Magdalena_.
The Island before the Haven, antiently call’d _Codega_, now _Carex_,
inhabited by Fisher-men when the _Spaniards_ Landed there, is now
desolate, the remainder of those that were destroy’d by them being fled
to wild places from the _Spaniards_ Cruelties; notwithstanding the
People hereabouts were valiant enough to Engage with them. But since the
Devastation made by Sir _Francis Drake_, _Carthagena_ hath receiv’d a
more fatal Blow; for it was scarce fully repair’d, when five _French_
Privateers burnt the City to Ashes: which Mischief was occasion’d by a
_Spanish_ Seaman, who being whipt by Command of the Governor, resolving
for Revenge, went from _Spain_ to _France_, and conducted the
fore-mention’d Ships to _Carthagena_, where he reveng’d himself on the
Governor; for finding him asleep, he first wak’d him, and after having
told him of his causing him to be Whipt, he kill’d him. The Booty which
the _Spaniards_ carried from thence at that time amounted to above a
hundred and fifty thousand _Ducats_.
[Sidenote: The Balsam of _Tolu_ very famous.]
2. _Tolu_, by the _Spaniards_ now call’d _St. Jago_, twelve Leagues
distant from _Carthagena_, a Place memorable for the excellent Balsam
which is brought from thence, and commonly call’d _The Balsam of Tolu_;
it is gather’d in a Spoonful of black Wax, stuck under the Hole cut in
the Bark of a low Pine-Tree, out of which in hot Weather runs a Golden
colour’d Gum, very soveraign, and of an excellent smell.
3. _St. Crux de Mopox_, a neat Town, seated a little above the
confluence of the two Rivers, _St. Martha_ and _Magdalena_, which waters
this Province.
4. _Baranca de Nolambo_, a Place of great Traffick, especially for all
Commodities of the new Kingdom of _Granada_; it standeth upon the Banks
of the River _Magdalena_, and about six Leagues distant from the Sea.
5. _Buena Vista_, otherwise call’d _St. Sebastian de Buena Vista_, a
Town commodiously seated upon a rising Ground not far from the Gulf of
_Urraba_, or the Sound of _Darien_, about a League and a half from the
Sea.
6. _Villa de St. Maria_, thirty Leagues Southward of _Carthagena_.
[Sidenote: Rivers of _Carthagena_.]
The Province of _Carthagena_ is stor’d with many Brooks and great
Rivers, amongst which the Stream _Cauca_ falls into the River
_Magdalena_, beyond _Popayan_ near _Mopox_.
The River _Zenu_, which gives Denomination to the above-mention’d
Territory, makes a very convenient Harbor with its Mouth, where much
Salt is to be had.
The _Daria_, which runs between _Panama_ and _Carthagena_ into the Inlet
_Urraba_, gives its Denomination to the foregoing Province, through
which it also runs, as hath been already mention’d.
The River which for its greatness is call’d _Rio Grande_, or
_Magdalena_, (because it was discover’d on the Day Consecrated to that
Saint) falls with such force into the Northern Ocean, about twenty three
Leagues Eastward from _Carthagena_, that running two Leagues broad and
ten long into the Sea, it retains its freshness of Water; in which there
lying many Rocks, makes the same very dangerous for Ships. In the Mouth
of the Haven lies an Island, which is divided by the River, the widest
and most frequented Channel of which respects _St. Martha_, where those
that carry the Merchandise up this Stream to _New Granada_, spend two
Moneths in Toeing, whenas they come from thence in three Weeks.
Thunder and Lightning rages here many times after a terrible manner from
Midnight till Morning. In _January_ there falls also abundance of Rain,
which gliding from the Mountains swells the River exceedingly.
SECT. V.
St. Martha.
[Sidenote: Description of _St. Martha_.]
_St. Martha_, so call’d from the chief City of the Province, is border’d
on the West with _New Andaluzia_; on the East, with _Rio de la Hacha_;
on the North, with the Ocean; and on the South, with _New Granada_; It
is about threescore and ten Leagues in length, and not much less in
breadth: It was antiently distributed into several little _Seignories_,
Govern’d by _Casiques_, or petty Princes, _viz._ _Pozigueica_, _Betoma_,
_Buritaca_, _Chimola_, inhabited by valiant Men and beautiful Women, and
above all the rest, _Tairona_, (whose People for a long time maintain’d
War against the _Spaniards_) lying at the Foot of the high Mountains
_Sierras Nevadas_, whose snowy Crowns are seen thirty Leagues off at
Sea, and run along in a continu’d Ridge through _Peru_ and _Chili_ to
the _Straights_ of _Magellan_.
This Countrey was Discover’d, and part of it Planted, _Anno 1524._ by
_Roderic de Bastredas_, who afterwards was murder’d in his Sleep by his
own People.
[Sidenote: The Nature of the Climate, and Commodities of the Countrey.]
The Sun shines so exceeding hot near the Sea-coast, that there is no
enduring of the same; but up in the Countrey the snowy Mountains
occasion great Cold, and in Harvest and _October_ it Rains exceedingly,
whereas at other times it is very dry Weather, and the Winds blow
generally out of the East or North-East, yet the Land-Breezes coming out
of the West bring sometimes Rains with them. From the Mountains, which
are stony and barren, fall many Brooks and Rivers, which water divers
Plains, the Grass and other Plants of which are often blasted by violent
Storms; nevertheless Oranges, Lemmons, Granates, and all sorts of
_Spanish_ Garden Fruits grow here in great plenty. The Woods afford
likewise Pigeons, Partridges, Venison, and the like; the Rivers all
manner of Fish, which are seen to swim in great numbers twenty Yards
under the Water, especially in the Haven _St. Martha_, near which
formerly liv’d many Fisher-men, who with Nets made of tough Twigs
pleited together, caught such plenty of Fish, that they furnish’d all
their Neighbors. The High-ways are made dangerous by Lyons, Tygers, and
Bears.
[Sidenote: Great plenty of Precious Stones in these Parts.]
[Sidenote: _Peter di Lugo_ his Treachery to the Natives.]
[Sidenote: The _Welsares_ Journey.]
The Countrey _Buritaca_ affords the Inhabitants Gold; _Tairona_,
excellent Stones against Bleeding and the Gravel, Jasper, Porphyr, and
Gold; the Valley _Tunia_, many rich Emeraulds, which Stones us’d to be
in great esteem before _America_ produc’d such great numbers of them.
_Acosta_ relates, That a _Spaniard_ desiring to know the Price of an
Emerauld, shew’d two to an _Italian_ Jeweller, who valu’d the one at a
hundred, the other at three hundred _Ducats_; but soon after seeing a
Chest full of them, said they were scare worth a _Ducat_ apiece; and
that the Sute which the _Roman_ Lady wore, being beset with Emeraulds,
and valu’d at four hundred thousand _Ducats_, would not sell now for
half so much. This Stone or Jewel exceedingly fortifies the Sight,
wherefore the Emperor _Nero_ represented the bloody Encounters of
Fencers in an Emerauld. It is also judg’d to be good against the
Falling-sickness, wherefore the _Indians_ hang them in their Noses to
this day, and adorn their Idols with them; they grow in stony Rocks
along Veins, not unlike Crystal, and in time obtain a glittering
Greenness; the biggest of them that are found in this Age are most
esteem’d of in _Genua_. The Emerauld Pillar, which as a wonderful
Ornament stood in _Hercules_’s Temple in the City of _Tyrus_, being very
famous amongst the Antients, was without doubt no more than a green
Stone; and perhaps of the same Material, was the Pillar erected by the
_Arabian_ King _Miramamolines_, in the Cathedral at _Corduba_. But the
great fame of these Emeraulds incited _Gonzalvez Zimenes_, Governor of
_St. Martha_, to leave his Place and seek for them; to which end he
Sail’d up the Rivulet _Gayra_ with two Ketches and forty five
_Spaniards_, who meeting with the Casique _Bagotta_, got much Gold of
him, and afterwards went to the Valley _Tessuca_; of which _Simandoca_
being Governor, conducted _Ximenez_ twenty three Leagues farther to an
Emerauld Rock, from whence he return’d exceedingly enriched; the rumor
of which spreading up and down, made several travel thither; amongst
whom was _Peter di Lugo_, Governor of _Terra Firma_, who sending for Aid
from _Carthagena_, fought his way to _Bagotta_, who resisted him for
some time, till at last being defeated he made Peace with them for a
considerable quantity of Gold; which when _Peter di Lugo_ had receiv’d,
not regarding his Word, he plunder’d all the Countrey, and having
committed all imaginable Cruelties on the Natives, return’d home with an
invaluable Mass of Gold and Emeraulds to _St. Martha_. Not long after
the _Welsares_, _German_ Knights, came from _Venezuela_, (which City the
Emperor _Charles_ the Fifth Morgag’d to them _Anno 1518._) and travell’d
through the snowy Mountains of _St. Martha_ with _Indian_ Guides, whose
Instructions following, they digg’d many Emeraulds out of the Valley
_Funia_; the Inhabitants of which affrighted at the sight of the
Strangers, hang’d themselves out of despair, though naturally valiant,
and ingenious in working in Tapestry the shapes of Tygers, Lyons, and
other Beasts, and painting on the Walls of their Houses variety of
Figures of divers colours, covering their Floors with Mats neatly
pleited of Rushes. They fed on Fish, Venison, and Mans-flesh, and also
on the Roots _Agies_, tasting like Chesnuts, _Yuca_, _Maiz_, _Batata_,
and _Cassada_.
[Sidenote: Chief Cities and Places of note.]
The chief Cities and Places of principal note in this Province are 1.
_St. Martha_, which gives Denomination to the whole Province, it stands
built at the North Sea, which makes a large and convenient Harbor, being
defended from the Winds by high Mountains and two Isles, is a Bishop’s
See, and hath a large Cathedral. The Houses built of Canes are cover’d
with _Palmito_-Trees, and some with woodden Shingles. The Haven hath
neither Fort nor Castle to defend it, because there is no Trade but with
the _Indians_, which bring Earthen Ware and Cotton Clothes to sell; and
because the _Spanish_ Ships seldom come hither, the Place is much gone
to decay, and the more, because it is no way defended against any
Assault of an Enemy, which the _French_, and afterwards the _English_,
under the Command of Sir _Francis Drake_, and the following Year under
Captain _Anthony Shirley_ took advantage of, and plunder’d and burnt the
City.
2. _Teneriff_, built on the Banks of the River _Magdalena_, forty
Leagues from _St. Martha_.
3. _Tamalameque_, otherwise call’d _Villa de las Palmas_, twenty Leagues
South of _Teneriff_, lying on a high stony Ground; between which are
plain Pastures for Cattel, surrounded with high Woods, as also Pools
made by the over-flowing of the Rivers, whose Banks are inhabited by the
_Indians_, who are much addicted to Sleep and Drinking. The Pools before
mention’d produce abundance of Fish, as also Crocodiles, and the
terrible _Manati_ before describ’d.
4. _Ocanna_, which hath an Inland Haven.
5. _Ramada_, formerly call’d _New Salamanca_, standing at the Foot of
the Mountain call’d _Sierras Nevadas_. This Town is famous for its
Copper and Brass Mines.
6. _Cividad de los Reyes_, which built in the Valley _Upari_, stands on
the Shore of the mighty River _Guataporeya_, where from the beginning of
_January_ till _May_ the Eastern Breezes moderate the Heat, otherwise
intolerable: But the continual Rains thereabout occasions the _Quartan_
Ague, and many such like Distempers. The Natives hereabouts, salvage and
valiant, would never submit to the _Spaniards_.
[Sidenote: The Tree _Xagua_.]
The peculiar Plants of this Place are the Tree _Xagua_, which bears a
Fruit like a Raisin, which dry’d and ground yields exceeding good Meal
for Bread.
[Sidenote: The Root _Scorzonera_.]
The Root _Scorzonera_, which cures the Bitings of Serpents. The
_Indians_ also use the Tail of a Serpent for a Remedy against the same
Evil, as they take Tobacco against the Falling-sickness, and snuff the
Powder in at their Nostrils, and drink the Juice thereof to cause
Loosness.
[Sidenote: Chief Rivers.]
The chief Rivers of this Province, are 1. _Polomino_, so call’d from a
_Spanish_ Captain, that was drown’d there with his Horse, falling from
the _Sierras Nevadas_.
2. _Guatupori_, whose Water causes the Bloody-flux and Loosness, which
again is cur’d by the same Water drunk with beaten Cinamon. _Guatupori_
reckons many Rivulets, amongst which the _Cesar_ and _Budillo_ are both
large, deep, and abounding with Fish.
Near the City _Los Reyes_ are three great Water-pits, triangular between
stony Cliffs; nigh which a Tradition goes, That of old there lurk’d a
terrible Serpent, which at times devour’d a thousand People; insomuch
that none durst dwell thereabouts, till certain _Spaniards_ having the
hardiness and curiosity to go seek out this Serpent, heard a great noise
in the Pits, but saw nothing like the fore-mention’d Animal.
Here are likewise several Fountains of Pitch and Tar.
SECT. VI.
Rio de la Hacha.
[Sidenote: _Rio de la Hacha._]
_Rio de la Hacha_ is the Name of a little Province lying on the
North-East of _St. Martha_, wash’d on all other parts with the Waters of
the Main Ocean, or with the Gulf or Bay of _Venezuela_.
[Sidenote: Chief Towns of this Province.]
The chief Towns of this Province, are 1. A small Town call’d _De la
Hacha_, which gives Denomination to the said Province, having no
convenient Haven, but otherwise seated in a Soil very rich and fertile,
not onely of all sorts of Fruits and Plants, especially such as are
brought from _Spain_, but likewise in many Mines of Gold, Gems of a
large size and great value, and many excellent Salt-Wiches, as they call
them; It is eight Leagues distant from _Salamanca_ aforesaid, and
eighteen from _Cape Villa_, the most Westerly Point or Foreland of the
Bay of _Venezuela_; and with the rest had the hap to be surpris’d and
pillag’d by the _English_ with Sir _Francis Drake_ in the Year 1595. who
refus’d twenty four thousand _Ducats_, which the Governor proffer’d him
for the Pearls he had taken.
2. _Rancheria_, six Leagues Eastward of _La Hacha_, inhabited chiefly by
Pearl-Fishers, or such as get their Living for the most part by Fishing
for Pearl, which was wont to be good on these Coasts.
3. _Tapia_, five Leagues from _La Hacha_, and considerable, for that the
adjacent Parts were laid waste by the _English_, to revenge the
perfidiousness of the Governor of _Salamanca_, refusing to pay the four
thousand _Ducats_ he had promis’d, upon Condition of their sparing the
Town.
[Sidenote: _Abibeca_ the last King of this Province.]
The last King of those that Govern’d in any of these Provinces of _Terra
Firma_, was _Abibeca_, who could not be won to come down from his
Palace, which he had on the top of a Tree, till a _Spanish_ Officer, one
_Francisco de Vanquez_ began to lay an Ax to the Root thereof.
After _Didaco Niquesa_, _Alphonso Oreda_, and _Anciso_, had made very
large Discoveries in these Provinces, _Valboa_ was the first that
discover’d the Way to the South-Sea.
[Illustration]
CHAP. III.
New Granada.
[Sidenote: First Discovery of _New Granada_.]
The new Kingdom of _Granada_, as ’tis commonly call’d, was for the most
part both discover’d and conquer’d by _Gonsalvo Ximenes_, about the Year
1536. and with so good success, that in less than a years space, the
whole Countrey was quietly setled under the _Spaniards_ Government, and
the Captain with his small Company had made shift to gather together
such a Mass of Treasure as may seem almost incredible, _viz._ from the
_Reguli_, or petty Princes of those Countreys, whom he had either
destroy’d or made Tributary. But a more particular Relation of _Ximenes_
his Journey take as followeth:
[Sidenote: _Gustavo Ximenes_ his Expedition.]