being that great _Peninsula_ which lies Northward of the _Isthmus_, or
_Straight_ of _Darien_, together with all the Islands on the North side
of the _Equinoctial Line_, we come now to the Southern Part, otherwise
call’d _Peruana_, from _Peru_ the chief Kingdom thereof, being the other
great _Peninsula_, which lies Southward of the aforesaid _Straight_: It
is generally resembled to the form of a Pyramid revers’d; the Basis
whereof, that is to say, the more Southerly parts of it towards
_Magellanica_ and the _Straights_, extend themselves largely both East
and West, becoming more sharp and streight towards the North, and those
parts by which it is joyn’d to _Mexicana_: in the whole it is suppos’d
to contain a Circuit of seventeen thousand Miles at least, and is
water’d with four of the greatest Rivers of the World, besides abundance
of lesser Streams, which issuing from the _Andes_ and other Mountains of
the Countrey, do run from all Parts both into the North and South Sea,
much fertilizing the Countreys through which they pass; the four
principal are these following:
[Sidenote: The chief Rivers thereof.]
1. _Orellana_, so call’d from the first Discovery thereof by _Franciscus
de Orellana_, otherwise the River of _Amazons_, from a Generation of
warlike Women, who (as the Tradition goes) inhabited certain Countreys
lying upon the Banks thereof. This riseth in the Province of _Peru_, and
runneth a Course of little less than five thousand Miles, discharging it
self at last into the North Sea, through a Channel, as some say, of
threescore Leagues broad, and yet with such a violent Current or Stream,
that it is said to keep its natural colour and taste almost thirty Miles
in the Sea.
2. _Orenoque_, by some call’d _Raliana_, from Sir _Walter Raleigh_, who
endeavor’d to discover it, a River of the Province of _Guiana_, whose
Head or Spring is not yet discover’d: It is said to be Navigable a
thousand Miles together by the tallest Ships, and no less than two
thousand by Pinnaces and smaller Vessels, and dischargeth it self
likewise into the North Sea by sixteen several Channels or Mouths,
making thereby several Islands; some whereof are said to be of good
bigness, and to lie at a distance of a hundred Miles or more one from
the other.
3. _Maragnon_, a River of a yet larger Course than any of the former,
being, as ’tis said, no less than six thousand Miles from its Head,
which is out of the _Andes_ in _Peru_, to its Fall, which is likewise
into the North Sea about _Cape Blanco_, by a Channel of seventy Leagues
in breadth.
4. _Rio de la Plata_, otherwise call’d _Paraguay_, a River of two
thousand Miles Course, and falling as the rest into the North Sea, by a
Channel of threescore Miles over, and about thirty Degrees Southward of
the _Line_, towards the _Straights_ of _Magellane_.
[Sidenote: The Mountains _Andes_.]
The _Andes_, or Mountains before mention’d being the most noted, and
biggest of all _America_, and indeed of the whole World, and thought by
_Cortesius_ to be the same with _Sephar_, spoken of in the tenth Chapter
of _Genesis_, run above a thousand Leagues in length from _Timama_, a
Town of _New Granada_ in the Province of _Popayan_, and are in the
narrowest place about twenty Leagues broad; and also of equal heighth
with, if not higher than _Caucasus_ it self: the Ascent to them is
unpassable, except in very few places, by reason of craggy Precipices,
and wild overgrown pathless Woods, serving onely for a shelter to
Serpents and other poysonous Animals, which are there so numerous, that
a whole Army of one of the Kings of _Peru_ is reported to have been
destroy’d by them; and what-ever People there are inhabiting in any of
these Woods and Fastnesses, must needs be in the very utmost degree of
rude and brutish salvageness.
Some divide _Southern America_ into _Peruviana_ and _Brasiliana_:
_Peruviana_ they subdivide into _Terra Firma_ and _Peru_; _Brasiliana_
into _Brasile_ and _Paraguay_: But the most receiv’d and commodious
Division is into these particular Provinces following, all of them
wealthy and large, _viz._ 1. _Castella Aurea_, or _Golden Castile_, 2.
_Nova Granada_, or _The New Kingdom_, as they call it. 3. _Peru_,
specially so call’d. 4. _Chile._ 5. _Paraguay._ 6. _Brasile._ 7.
_Guiana._ 8. Lastly _Paria_, with some lesser Islands adjoyning to all
or most of these Provinces, and commonly reckon’d as part of them.
[Illustration]
CHAP. II.
Castella Aurea, otherwise call’d Terra Firma.
[Sidenote: Description of _Castella Aurea_.]
_Castella de Oro_, as the _Spaniards_ call it, or _Golden Castile_,
taketh up all the rest of the _Isthmus_, or _Straight_ of _Darien_,
which hath not been yet spoken of, being bounded Eastward, and to the
North-East, with the _Atlantick_ Ocean; and on the West with _Mare del
Zur_, and some part of _Veragua_; Southward it hath the new Kingdom of
_Granada_. It is call’d sometimes _Terra Firma_, because it was one of
the first parts of firm Land which the _Spaniards_ touch’d upon, after
they had pass’d so many Islands, as seem’d for some time to block up,
and bar them from the Continent of _America_: It is subdivided into
these inferior Provinces or Countreys, _viz._ 1. _Panama._ 2. _Darien._
3. _Nova Andaluzia._ 4. _St. Martha._ 5. Lastly, the little Province _De
la Hacha_.
[Sidenote: Rivers.]
The chief Rivers of the Province of _Panama_ are 1: _Chagre_, as it was
antiently call’d, but afterwards from the great number of Crocodiles
that harbor in it, _Rio de Lagartos_, falling into the North Sea between
_Nombre de Dios_ and _Porto Bellano_. 2. _Sardinilla._ 3. _Sardina._ 4.
_Rio de Colubros_, so call’d from the abundance of Snakes breeding
thereabouts. 5. _Rio de Comagre_, which falls into the same Sea. 6.
_Chepo_, famous in times past for its Gold-Sands. 7. _Rio de Balsas_,
whose Banks are shaded with good Timber-Trees. 8. _Rio de Congo_, which
falls into _St. Michaels_ Bay.
SECT. II.
Panama.
[Sidenote: Description of _Panama_.]
_Panama_, commonly call’d _The District_, or _Circle of Panama_, is
bounded Eastward with the _Gulf_, or _Bay_ of _Urraba_, by which it is
separated from the rest of the Continent of this Southern part of
_America_; on the West it hath _Veragua_, one of the Provinces of
_Guatimala_; being on both the other sides wash’d with the Sea: It is
suppos’d to contain in length from _Carthagena_ and _Popayan_, to the
Confines of _Veragua_, about eighty or ninety Leagues, in breadth not
above threescore in any part; and where it is narrowest, _viz._ betwixt
the City of _Panama_ and _Nombre de Dios_, if measur’d by a right Line,
not above six or seven over from Sea to Sea. It lieth almost under the
_Equinoctial Line_, but a few Degrees Northward of it, and therefore
somewhat hot, and by the neighborhood of both Seas subject to a foggy
and gross Air, in comparison of some other parts; so that it is not
counted generally so healthful a Countrey, especially for Strangers, and
in Summer-time.
[Sidenote: The antient Division of _Panama_.]
The antient Division of _Panama_, according to the Lordships of the
_Casiques_ that then Govern’d, were these following: _Careta_, _Aila_,
_Comagre_, _Chiam_, _Coyba_, _Chame_, _Chiru_, _Nata_, _Tobre_, _Trota_,
_Haylia_, _Burica_, and _Escotia_, where the South Sea with the
Spring-Tides flowing over the Plains, at its return being hardned by the
Sea, is turn’d into Salt; but as it hath always hapned in all other
Countreys of the World, that with the alteration of Government, the
Division of the Countrey, and the Names of Places have totally chang’d,
so also here the antient Division of Regions and Territories must give
place to the Modern.
[Sidenote: The Nature and Customs of the antient Inhabitants.]
The antient Inhabitants of these Parts were a very warlike People, the
Women always accompanying their Husbands in the Wars. They us’d to hang
on the tops of their Standards the Bones of their greatest Heroes,
thereby to animate their Soldiers. Their Arms consisted of poysonous
Arrows, Stone Swords, and Pikes made of the Palm-Trees. They also
carried with them the Idol _Chiapa_, to whom they Offer’d living
Children at the beginning of their Wars, and afterwards making Merry
with the Flesh, anointed the Image with the Blood: Moreover, if they
return’d home Conquerors, they spent several days in all manner of
Debaucheries, as Drinking, Singing, Dancing, Cutting their Prisoners
Throats, with their Blood also anointing their Image. But if they were
conquer’d, then they invented new Offerings to reconcile themselves with
their Idol.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of chief note.]
The chief Towns and Places which the _Spaniards_ inhabit here, are 1.
_Panama_, the chief City of the Province, being also a Bishop’s See,
which is Suffragan to the Arch-bishop of _Lima_, and the ordinary
Residence of the Governor and Courts of Justice for these Parts; It is
seated likewise upon the South Sea, and so near, that at High-water the
Ships are said to Ride even under the Walls. Through this Town the
Wealth both of _Peru_ and _Spain_ passeth once every Year; from _Spain_
by _Nombre de Dios_ and _Porto Bello_, from whence whatsoever
Merchandise or other Commodities come from _Spain_, are Transported to
_Panama_ by Land, and from thence by Sea to all the Parts of _Peru_; and
by _Panama_ whatsoever comes from _Peru_, is sent into _Spain_: It hath
commonly a strong Garrison of Soldiers in it, and is doubtless a Place
otherwise well fortifi’d, being of so great importance. From the Haven
_Pericos_ three Ways lead to _Panama_, the first along a Bridge over a
River, whose Banks are great Fortifications to the City, the rather
because the River is deep, and next to it a Pool over-grown with Weeds.
The Way from _Nombre de Dios_ plain and without Woods, is wash’d by the
Brook _Levendero_. The third runs along over a Stone Bridge and Champain
Grounds, that extend from the Haven _Pericos_ to the City. Eastward from
_Panama_ appear seven Royal Houses on a Rock, wherein the Courts of
Judicature are kept. Five hundred Rods into the Sea lies an Island
resembling a Half-Moon, and the Haven wherein the Ships when they unlade
cast Anchor, there being else not Water enough for laden Barques, and
all lie dry, the Tide being out: At the Mouth thereof stands a woodden
Sconce. The Places _Venta de Cruze_, _Chagre_, _Quebrada_, and
_Ballano_, are also fortifi’d against any Invasion, where else an Enemy
might easily Land: But the strictest Watch is kept at the River
_Chagre_, which Westward below _Nombre de Dios_ falling into the
Northern Ocean, brings the Ships up to _Venta de Cruze_, from whence a
Way scarce five Leagues long leads to _Panama_. The _Spanish_
Commodities consisting most in Meal, Oyl, Biskets, Cloth and Silk, are
all brought from _Nombre de Dios_ along the same Way; or else in Winter
when they cannot stem the Current of the River _Chagre_, then they bring
their Goods by Land, not without great danger of being taken by the
run-away _Negro_’s, who set upon them out of the Woods with poyson’d
Darts and Arrows; and as many _Spaniards_ as they take, so many several
ways they put them to death, because they formerly in the time of their
Servitude were us’d with all imaginable Cruelties. The Provisions sold
here at a reasonable Rate are _Maiz_, _Peruan_-Meal, Poultrey, Honey,
Cattel, Swine, Oranges, Lemmons, Cabbage, and all manner of Garden Herbs
or Plants. Round about the fore-mention’d Royal Houses lie Bulwarks,
with a strong Castle on one side. A fair Cathedral denotes the Place to
be a Bishop’s See: And the _Franciscans_, _Dominicans_, and Monks of the
Order _De la Merced_, inhabit several fair Cloysters here. Two Leagues
Westward is the Haven _Pericos_, which being secur’d from all Winds by
three high Isles that lie before it, is the chief Harbor in which the
_Peruan_ Plate-Fleet (consisting most in small Barques) comes to an
Anchor before they touch at _Panama_. The Countrey is for the most part
Mountainous, and in many places sends forth stinking Damps out of muddy
Pools; yet in some places are _Savanna_ Grounds for Cattel to Graze in.
The Air would also be more unhealthful, if it were not clear’d by the
Winds which blow from the Sea. From _July_ to _October_ there fall
continual Rains, mix’d with terrible claps of Thunder. The Inhabitants
often recreate themselves in Hunting wild Hogs, with Nets made of the
Brambles call’d _Nequen_ or _Henachen_, and that after a strange manner:
for they set on fire the Bushes all about the place where they suppose
the Game to lie, which to shun the fire runs into their Nets; so that
the same Bushes are both their shelter and destruction, as affording
Material to make the Nets wherein they are taken. Besides other Birds
the Woods also abound with Pheasants and Turtle-Doves; and amongst
Beasts, those that carry their Young about them in a Bag, as also
wildcats. The Sea abounds with Fish, and produces Crocodiles of a large
size, by the _Spaniards_ call’d _Lagartos_. The Trees are seldom without
Leaves, but bear little or no Fruit.
2. _Nombre de Dios_, which hath broad Streets, high woodden Houses, and
a fair Church: It extends from East to West along the Northern Ocean, in
the middle of a great Wood on Moorish Ground, having a great Fen on the
West; being situate under an unwholsom Climate, it hath occasion’d the
death of many People. The Merchants which dwelt here had also
Habitations in _Panama_, (the rest of the Houses being most of them Inns
for Strangers) from whence as soon as they had gotten an Estate they
went to _Spain_. The Countrey round about lies under Water in many
places. The Oranges, _Cassada_-Roots, and the like, which grow here,
occasion many Distempers to those that eat of them. In the Harbor, which
hath on each side a Ridge of Rocks, on which lies decay’d Forts, the Sea
is often-times so turbulent, that the Ships are forc’d to Ride at six
Anchors apiece. Eastward from the City a fresh-Water River falls into
the Haven, on whose Banks stand several Garden-Houses and Orchards.
_Anno 1595._ Sir _Francis Drake_ arriving here, found a Mill beyond the
City; not far from which on a Hill stood a Watch-house, of which having
made himself Master, he set fire on the Town _Nombre de Dios_, as also
on all the Vessels that were in the Harbor. The original of the Name
_Nombre de Dios_ was on this occasion, _viz._ _Diego Niquesa_ setting
Sail with three Ships out of the Haven _Carthagena_ to the Golden
Countrey _Veragua_, was surpris’d by a violent Storm, in which two
Ketches, Commanded by _Lupus de Olano_ and _Peter Umbria_ were driven
out of sight, whilest he suffer’d shipwrack, and getting ashore, rang’d
up and down in a desolate Countrey, where he found no other Food but
Roots, till at last he met with _Olano_; when the Famine began to
increase amongst them in such a nature, that being scarce able to carry
their Arms, many of them were kill’d by the Inhabitants with poyson’d
Arrows, insomuch that of seven hundred there remain’d scarce ninety:
_Niquesa_ shipp’d as many of them in a new Vessel which they had made as
it could possibly carry, and promis’d to fetch the rest off from
_Veragua_ as soon as he had discover’d a Place fit to be inhabited: The
first Place he Landed at was _Puerto Bello_; from whence being
necessitated by the _Indians_ who gather’d together to Retreat Aboard,
not without the loss of several Men, he set Sail to the Promontory
_Mormor_, beyond which he Anchor’d in a secure Haven; where, as he was
going ashore he call’d to his Men, saying, _Saltiamo in tierra al Nombre
de Dios_, that is, _Let us Land in the Name of God_, and calling up a
Fort against the Assaults of the Natives, call’d it _Nombre de Dios_.
3. _St. Philip_, or _Puerto Bello_, so denominated by _Christopher
Columbus_ from its Haven lying along the North Sea, wonderful convenient
and secure, by reason of the good Ground for Anchoring, and a Creek in
the same, defended from all sorts of Winds; and which being surrounded
with Woods, hath much over-flow’d Land about it, as also abundance of
good Gravel for Ballast; for which and several other Reasons, the famous
Architect _Baptista Antonelli_ advis’d the _Spanish_ King, to build this
City for a Staple of Trade (in stead of _Nombre de Dios_, which was
found unhealthy) having pitch’d upon an excellent Situation for it,
_viz._ on a Plain at the Foot of a Hill, where there are three fresh
Rivulets, meeting with a fruitful and hot Countrey: wherefore his Advice
being taken, they first built a Fort at the Mouth of the Haven, put five
Guns into the same to defend the new City, and on the Shore a strong
Tower with eight Drakes: Moreover, the Rocks along the Shore, and close
Woods about the Haven prevent the Landing of an Enemy: But at the very
time that this City was just begun to be built, Sir _Francis Drake_
having burnt _Nombre de Dios_, ran into the Haven _Puerto Bello_, where
he found ten Houses, besides the Governors Palace, and a Castle whose
Breast-works which the _Spaniards_ had lately rais’d of Timber, Stone,
and Earth, were all demolish’d by the _English_: But the _Spaniards_
have since re-built the same, and fortifi’d the Haven, with two strong
Castles, notwithstanding in the Year 1661. it was surpriz’d and taken by
the _English_ under the Command of Captain _Parker_, and the Governor
_Petro Melendez_ taken Prisoner.
4. _Nata_, commonly call’d _St. Jago de Nata_, situated on the West side
of this Province, upon _Mare del Zur_, or _The South Sea_, about thirty
Leagues distant from _Panama_, towards the Borders of _Veragua_.
5. _Acla_, a Town upon the same Coast, but lying South-East of _Nombre
de Dios_: It was at first onely a Fort built by _Peter de Arias_, but
afterwards grew up into a small City, of which at present there is
nothing remaining but the remembrance of the famous _Vasquez Nunnez_,
Beheaded by his Father-in-law _Arias_.
6. Lastly, _La Crux Real_, a few Leagues distant from _Panama_, for the
most part inhabited by a sort of _Negro_’s call’d _Simmerones_.
Along the North Coast of _Panama_ are two small woody Islands call’d
_Cattiva_ and _Comagre_, lying low in the Water; also the Isle _De
Pines_, which rises high out of the Sea near the Main Land.
[Sidenote: The _Isles of Pearls_.]
On the Southern Coast are _Isole de las Perlas_, or _The Isles of
Pearls_, about twenty five in number, but indeed rather Rocks than
Islands, excepting two, _viz._ _Tararequi_ and _Del Rios_ where in
former times the _Indians_ took great store of Pearls, by diving for
them to the bottom of the Sea; and they were esteem’d of greater value
and excellence than those of _Cubagua_, and great profit was made of
them by the _Spaniards_, till by their Cruelties exercis’d upon the
Natives through excessive greediness, they depopulated the Islands, and
lost that altogether of which before they were so insatiable: they are
now onely inhabited by a few _Moors_ and other Slaves, who keep Cattel
there for their Masters.
[Sidenote: Captain _Oxenham_’s Expedition.]
It will not seem amiss to conclude our Description of _Panama_ with a
short Account of the _English_ Captain _John Oxenham_’s Exploits in
these Parts: He being incited by the Treasure which Sir _Francis Drake_
fetch’d from hence, resolv’d to Steer for the Northern Coast of
_Panama_, where he hal’d his Ship of a hundred and twenty Tun on Shore,
and cover’d the same with Trees, buried his Guns, and march’d with two
Field-Pieces and seven Men up into the Countrey, and was by the
_Indians_ conducted to a River which falls into the South Sea, where he
built a Pinnace of forty five Foot long, and Sailing into the South Sea,
Landed on _Tararequi_, one of the Islands of _Pearls_; where he soon
after took a _Peruan_ Barque with sixty thousand pieces of Gold, store
of Wine and Bread, and the day following another which came from _Lima_,
loaden with a hundred thousand Pound in Silver Bars, and some Pearls;
with which being enrich’d he return’d to the Main: The Governor of
_Panama_ being inform’d of it, put a hundred Soldiers into four Barques,
besides a considerable number of _Negro_ Slaves; over which _Juan de
Ortego_ having the chief Command, was inform’d at _Tararequi_ what
Course the _English_ had steer’d; whereupon he pursu’d them to the River
whither they were gone, which falling with three Arms into the Sea, they
could not have known which way the _English_ went, unless they had seen
some Feathers of Fowls driving in the Mouth of the least Branch, by
which they judg’d that they were not far off; therefore Rowing up they
found after four days Journey the Pinnace hal’d on Shore, and watch’d by
six Men, who were order’d to stand Sentinel, whereof one being shot by
the _Spaniards_, the other five fled; whom _Ortega_ pursuing, found half
a League from the Shore a Hut made of Boughs, wherein the Booty lay,
which he speedily carried to his Barques; but Captain _Oxenham_ inform’d
hereof, fell with two hundred _Indians_ upon the _Spaniards_, who having
a Wood on their Backs made such advantage thereof, that eleven _English_
were slain, and seven taken, and had not the rest fled, they had all
been either kill’d or taken Prisoners: Those that were taken inform’d
_Ortega_ that they had been at difference amongst themselves about
dividing the Booty, which was the reason of their staying so long:
moreover, they discover’d where and how their Ship lay; all which the
Governor of _Panama_ writ to _Nombre de Dios_; from whence four Sail
were immediately sent to find out the Ship and the buried Guns, as also
to take all such _English_ as they should find preparing of Boats or
Barques, and bring them to _Panama_; whereupon very many were taken, who
were all miserably slain, except a few Youths.
SECT. III.
Darien.
[Sidenote: Description of _Darien_.]
_Darien_, which by some Authors not being thought considerable enough to
make a distinct Province, is reckon’d one and the same with, or at least
part of, _Panama_, hath on the North the District or Circle of _Panama_;
on the South, the new Kingdom of _Granada_; Eastward it is bounded with
the Gulf of _Urraba_ abovesaid, and some part of the River _Darien_,
which giveth Name to the Province; and to the West, with the South Sea;
of a more temperate Air by far than that of _Panama_, and a Soil so
admirably fruitful and lusty, that they say Melons, Cucumbers, and
generally all other Fruits of the Garden, are ripe and fit to gather
within twenty days or less, after their first sowing, but very much
infested by noxious Creatures, as Lyons, Leopards, wild Cats,
Crocodiles, Serpents, and Bats, after whose Bitings a Man bleeds to
death, unless he washes the Wound well with Sea-water, or stop it with
hot Ashes; and no less by the unwholsomness of the Air, which is
infested by the many stinking Damps that arise from the muddy Pools. The
Inhabitants are sickly, and seeming generally to be troubled with the
Yellow Jaundice, never attain to a great Age: they go naked, the Men
onely covering their Privities with a Shell or Cotton-Cloth: The Women
wear a Cloth which reaches from the Middle down to their Knees, but if
Women of Quality, to their Feet.
[Sidenote: _Sebastian_ and _Antiqua_, by whom built.]
The _Spaniards_ have many years ago made themselves Masters of this
Province of _Darien_, in which _Alphonsus Fogeda_ built the City
_Sebastian_, which was inhabited till a _Spanish_ Knight call’d
_Ancisius_, _Anno 1510._ built _Antiqua_, and made it a Bishop’s See,
which by reason of the unwholsomness of the Place was remov’d to
_Panama_, when _Vasquez Nunnez_ discover’d the Southern Ocean, _Anno
1590._ because _Antiqua_ lay on a low Ground between high Mountains,
where the Sun burnt exceedingly, and the Way to the South Sea, being
three Leagues from thence, it was very troublesom to convey Merchandise
thither.
But a worse Accident befell the Town _St. Cruiz_, which being built by
the _Spanish_ Captain _Peter de Arias_, was ruin’d by the _Indians_.
[Sidenote: Rivers.]