We returned from Massachusetts a few days ago, and I find a profusion of

flowers and almost summer heat here, though the golden showers that

every now and then flicker from the trees, and the rustling sound of

fallen leaves, and the autumnal smell of mignonette, and other "fall"

flowers, whisper of the coming winter; still all here at present is

bright and sweet, with that peculiar combination of softness and

brilliancy which belongs to the autumn in this part of America. It is

the pleasantest season of the year here, and indescribably beautiful....

Good-bye, dearest Harriet; I had hoped to have joined you and Emily at

Bannisters, but that pretty plan is all rubbed out now, and I do not

know when I shall see you; but, thanks to those blessed beings--the

steam-ships, those Atlantic angels of speed and certainty, it now seems

as if I could do so "at any moment." God bless you.

Yours ever,

F. A. B.

BUTLER PLACE, October 26th.

I beg you will not stop short, as in your last letter, received the day

before yesterday, dearest Harriet, with "but I will not overwhelm you

with questions:" it is particularly agreeable to me to have specific

questions to answer in the letters I receive from you, and I hope you

perceive that I do religiously reply to anything in the shape of a

query. It is pleasant to me to know upon what particular points of my

doing, being, and suffering you desire to be enlightened; because

although I know everything I write to you interests you, I like to be

able to satisfy even a few of those "I wonders" that are perpetually

rising up in our imaginations with respect to those we love and who are

absent from us.

You ask me if I ever write any journal, or anything else now. The time

that I passed in the South was so crowded with daily and hourly

occupations that, though I kept a regular journal, it was hastily

written, and received constant additional notes of things that

occurred, and that I wished to remember, inserted in a very irregular

fashion in it.... I think I should like to carry this journal down to

Georgia with me this winter; to revise, correct, and add whatever my

second experience might furnish to the chronicle. It has been suggested

to me that such an account of a Southern plantation might be worth

publishing; but I think such a publication would be a breach of

confidence, an advantage taken on my part of the situation of trust,

which I held on the estate. As my condemnation of the whole system is

unequivocal, and all my illustrations of its evils must be drawn from

our own plantation, I do not think I have a right to exhibit the

interior management and economy of that property to the world at large,

as a sample of Southern slavery, especially as I did not go thither with

any such purpose. This winter I think I shall mention my desire upon the

subject before going to the South, and of course any such publication

must then depend on the acquiescence of the owners of the estate. I am

sure that no book of mine on the subject could be of as much use to the

poor people on Butler's Island as my residence among them; and I should,

therefore, be very unwilling to do anything that was likely to interfere

with that: although I have sometimes been haunted with the idea that it

was an imperative duty, knowing what I know, and having seen what I have

seen, to do all that lies in my power to show the dangers and evils of

this frightful institution. And the testimony of a planter's wife, whose

experience has all been gathered from estates where the slaves are

universally admitted to be well treated, should carry with it some

authority. So I am occupying myself, from time to time, as my leisure

allows, in making a fair copy of my Georgia Journal.

I occasionally make very copious extracts from what I read, and also

write critical analyses of the books that please or displease me, in the

language--French or Italian--in which they are written; but these are

fragmentary, and do not, I think, entitle me to say that I am writing

anything. No one here is interested in anything that I write, and I have

too little serious habit of study, too little application, and too much

vanity and desire for the encouragement of praise, to achieve much in my

condition of absolute intellectual solitude....

Here are two of your questions answered; the third is--whether I let

the slave question rest more than I did? Oh yes; for I have come to the

conclusion that no words of mine could be powerful enough to dispel the

clouds of prejudice which early habits of thought, and the general

opinion of society upon this subject have gathered round the minds of

the people I live among. I do not know whether they ever think or read

about it, and my arguments, though founded in this case on pretty sound

reason, are apt to degenerate into passionate appeals, the violence of

which is not calculated to do much good in the way of producing

convictions in the minds of others....

Even if the property were mine, I could exercise no power over it; nor

could our children, after our death, do anything for those wretched

slaves, under the present laws of Georgia. All that any one could do,

would be to refrain from using the income derived from the estates, and

return it to the rightful owners--that is, the earners of it. Had I such

a property, I think I would put my slaves at once quietly upon the

footing of free laborers, paying them wages, and making them pay me rent

and take care of themselves. Of course I should be shot by my next

neighbor (against whom no verdict would be found except "Serve her

right!") in the first week of my experiment; but _if I wasn't_, I think,

reckoning only the meanest profit to be derived from the measure, I

should double the income of the estate in less than three years.... I am

more than ever satisfied that God and Mammon would be equally

propitiated by emancipation.

You ask me whether I take any interest in the Presidential election.

Yes, though I have not room left for my reasons--and I have some,

besides that best woman's reason, sympathy with the politics of the man

I belong to. The party coming into power are, I believe, at heart less

democratic than the other; and while the natural advantages of this

wonderful country remain unexhausted (and they are apparently

inexhaustible), I am sure the Republican Government is by far the best

for the people themselves, besides thinking it the best in the abstract,

as you know I do.

God bless you, my dearest Harriet.

I am ever yours most affectionately,

F. A. B.

[The question of my spending the winter in Georgia was finally

determined by Mr. J---- B---- 's decided opposition to my doing so.

He was part proprietor of the plantation, and positively stipulated

that I should not again be taken thither, considering my presence

there as a mere source of distress to myself, annoyance to others,

and danger to the property.

I question the validity of the latter objection, but not at all that

of the two first; and am sure that, upon the whole, his opposition

to my residence among his slaves was not only justifiable but

perfectly reasonable.

My Georgia journal was not published until thirty years after it was

written, during the civil war in the United States. I was then

passing some time in England, and the people among whom I lived

were, like most well-educated members of the upper classes of

English society, Southern sympathizers. The ignorant and mischievous

nonsense I was continually compelled to hear upon the subject of

slavery in the seceding States determined me to publish my own

observation of it--not, certainly, that I had in those latter years

of my life any fallacious expectation of making converts on the

subject, but that I felt constrained at that juncture to bear my

testimony to the miserable nature and results of the system, of

which so many of my countrymen and women were becoming the

sentimental apologists.

It being now settled that I was not to return to the plantation, my

thoughts had hardly reverted to the prospect of a winter in England

when I received the news of my father's return from the Continent,

and dangerous illness in London; so that, I was told, unless I could

go to him immediately, there was but little probability of my ever

seeing him again. The misfortune I had so often anticipated now

seemed to have overtaken me, and instant preparation for my leaving

America being made, and an elderly lady, with whom I had become

connected by my marriage, having exerted her influence in my behalf,

I was not allowed, under such painful circumstances, again to cross

the Atlantic alone, but returned with a very heavy heart to my own

country, but with the comfort of being accompanied by my whole

family.

The news that met me on my arrival was that my father was at the

point of death, that he would not probably survive twenty-four

hours, and that it was altogether inexpedient that he should see

me, as, if he recognized me, which was doubtful, my unexpected

appearance, it having been impossible to prepare him for it, might

only be the means of causing him a violent and perhaps painful shock

of nervous agitation. This terrible verdict, pronounced by three of

the most eminent medical men of the day, Bright, Liston, and Wilson,

was a dreadful close to all the anxious days and hours of the sea

voyage, during which I had hoped and prayed to be again permitted to

embrace my father. But in my deep distress, I could not help

remembering that, after all, his physicians, able as they were, had

not the keys of life and death. And so it proved: my father made an

almost miraculous rally, recovered, and survived the sentence

pronounced against him for many years.

Not many days after our arrival, his improved condition admitted of

his being told of my return, and allowed to see me. Cadaverous is

the only word that describes the appearance to which acute suffering

and subsequent prostration had reduced him; he looked, indeed, like

one returned from the dead, and, in his joy at seeing me again,

declared that I had restored him to life, and that my arrival,

though he had not known of it, had called him back to existence--a

sympathetic theory of convalescence, to which I do not think his

doctors gave in their adhesion.

We now took up our abode in London; first at the Clarendon Hotel,

and afterwards in Clarges Street, Piccadilly, where my father, as

soon as he could be moved, came to reside with us, and where my

sister joined us on her return from Italy. My friend Miss S----,

coming from Ireland to stay with me soon after my arrival in

England, added to my happiness in finding myself once more with my

own family, and in my own country.]

CLARGES STREET, March 21st.

You will, ere this, dearest H----, have received my answer to your first

letter. You ask me, in your second, what we think about the chances of a

war with America. Our wishes prompt us to the belief that a war between

the two countries is _impossible_, though the tone of the newspapers,

within the last few days, has been horribly pugnacious. A letter was

received the day before yesterday, from our Liverpool factor, asking us

what is to be done about some cotton which had just come to them from

the plantation, in the event of war breaking out: a supposition which he

had treated as an utter impossibility when he was last in London, but

which he confessed in this letter did not seem to him quite so

impossible now. I do not, for my own part, see very well how either

party is to get out of its present attitude towards the other peaceably

and, at the same time, without some compromise of dignity. But I pray

God that the hearts of the two nations may be inclined to peace, and

then, doubtless, some cunning device will be found to save their

_honor_. The virtuous "_if_" of Touchstone is, I am afraid, not as valid

in national as individual quarrels.

Tell Mr. H---- W----, with my love, that it is all a hoax about Niagara

Falls having _fallen_ down; and that they are still _falling_ down,

according to their custom; but if you should find this intelligence

affect him with too painful a disappointment, you may comfort him by

assuring him that they inevitably must and will fall down one of these

days, and, what is more, stay fallen, and precisely in the manner they

are now said to have begun their career--by the gradual wearing away of

the rock between Lake Ontario and Lake Erie.

We were at the opera the Saturday after you left us; but it was a

mediocre performance, both music and dancing, and gave me but little

pleasure. I went last night again with my father, and was enchanted with

the opera, which was an old favorite, "Tancredi," in which I heard

Persiani, an admirable artist, with a mere golden wire of voice, of

which she made most capital use, and Pauline Garcia, who possesses all

the genius of her family; and between them it was a perfect performance.

The latter is a sister of Malibran's, and will certainly be one of the

finest dramatic singers of these times. But the proximity of people to

me in the stalls is so intolerable that I think I shall give mine up;

for I am in a state of nervous _crawling_ the whole time, with being

pushed and pressed and squeezed and leaned on and breathed on by my

fellow-creatures. You remember my old theory, that we are all of us

surrounded by an atmosphere proper to ourselves, emanating from each of

us,--a separate, sensitive envelope, extending some little distance from

our visible persons. I am persuaded that this is the case, and that when

my _individual atmosphere_ is invaded by any one, it affects my whole

nervous system. The proximity of any _bodies_ but those I love best is

unendurable to my body.

My father is much in the same condition as when you went away, suffering

a great deal, and complaining frequently; but by his desire we have a

dinner-party here on Tuesday, and he has accepted two invitations to

dine out himself. My chicks are pretty well....

May God bless you, dear.

I am ever your own

F. A. B.

CLARGES STREET.

This letter was begun three days ago, and it is now Thursday, March the

25th. Do not, I beseech you, ever make any appeals to my imagination, or

my feelings. I have lost all I ever had of the first, and I never had

any at all of the second....

You ask me if I have been riding. Only once or twice, for I may not do

what I so fain would, give all the visiting to utter neglect, and ride

every day. Yesterday I was on horseback for two hours with Henry, who,

having sold his pretty mare, for L65, to the author of the new comedy at

Covent Garden, was obliged to bestride one of Mr. Allen's screws, as he

calls them. The day was dusty and windy, and very disagreeable, but I

was all the better for my shaking, as I always am. I am never in health,

looks, or spirits without daily hard exercise on horseback.

My first meeting with Mrs. Grote (I am answering your questions, dearest

H----, though you have probably forgotten them) took place after all at

Sydney Smith's, at a dinner the very next day after you left us. We did

not say a great deal to each other, but upon my saying incidentally (I

forget about what) "I, who have always preserved my liberty, at least

the small crumb of it that a woman can own anywhere," she faced about,

in a most emphatical manner, and said, "Then you've struggled for it."

"No, I have not been obliged to do so." "Ah, then you must, or you'll

lose it, you'll lose it, depend upon it." I smiled, but did not reply,

because I saw that she was not taking into consideration the fact of my

living in America; and this was the only truly _Grotesque_ (as Sydney

Smith says) passage between us. Since then we have again ineffectually

exchanged cards, and yesterday I received an invitation to her house, so

that I suppose we shall finally become acquainted with each other.

[Mrs. Grote, wife of George Grote, the banker, member of

Parliament, and historian of Greece, was one of the cleverest and

most eccentric women in the London society of my time. No worse a

judge than De Tocqueville pronounced her the cleverest woman of his

acquaintance; and she was certainly a very remarkable member of the

circle of remarkable men among whom she was living when I first knew

her. At that time she was the female centre of the Radical party in

politics--a sort of not-young-or-handsome feminine oracle among a

set of very clever half-heathenish men, in whose drawing-room,

Sydney Smith used to say, he always expected to find an altar to

Zeus. At this time Mr. Grote was in the House of Commons, and as it

was before the publication of his admirable history, his speeches,

which were as remarkable for their sound sense and enlightened

liberality as for their clear and forcible style, were not

unfrequently attributed to his wife, whose considerable

conversational powers, joined to a rather dictatorial style of

exercising them, sometimes threw her refined and modest husband a

little into the shade in general society. When first I made Mrs.

Grote's acquaintance, the persons one most frequently met at her

house in Eccleston Street were Roebuck, Leader, Byron's quondam

associate Trelawney, and Sir William Molesworth; both the first and

last mentioned gentlemen were then of an infinitely deeper shade of

radicalism in their politics than they subsequently became. The

other principal element of Mrs. Grote's society, at this time,

consisted of musical composers and performers, who found in her a

cordial and hospitable friend and hostess, and an amateur of unusual

knowledge and discrimination, as well as much taste and feeling for

their beautiful art. Her love of music, and courteous reception of

all foreign artists, caused her to be generally sought by eminent

professors coming to England; and Liszt, Madame Viardot, Dessauer,

Thalberg, Mademoiselle Lind, and Mendelssohn were among the

celebrated musicians one frequently met at her house. With the two

latter she was very intimate, and it was in her drawing-room that my

sister gave her first public concert in London. Mendelssohn used

often to visit her at a small country-place she had in the

neighborhood of Burnham Beeches.

It was a very small and modest residence, situated on the verge of

the magnificent tract of woodland scenery known by that name; a

dependence, I believe, of the Dropmore estate, which it adjoined. It

was an unenclosed space of considerable extent, of wild, heathy

moorland; short turfy strips of common; dingles full of foxglove,

harebell, and gnarled old stunted hawthorn bushes; and knolls,

covered with waving crests of powerful feathery fern. It was

intersected with gravelly paths and roads, whose warm color

contrasted and harmonized with the woodland hues of everything about

them; and roofed in by dark green vaults of the most magnificent

beech foliage I have ever seen anywhere. The trees were of great age

and enormous size; and from some accidental influence affecting

their growth, the huge trunks were many of them contorted so as to

resemble absolutely the twisted Saxon pillars of some old cathedral.

In many of them the powerful branches (as large themselves as trunks

of common trees) spread out from the main tree, at a height of about

six feet from the ground, into a sort of capacious leafy chamber,

where eight or ten people could have sat embowered. A more perfectly

English woodland scene it would be impossible to imagine, and here,

as Mrs. Grote told me, Mendelssohn found the inspiration of much of

the music of his "Midsummer Night's Dream." (The overture he had

composed, and played to us one evening at my father's house, when

first he came to England, before he was one-and-twenty.) At one time

Mrs. Grote contemplated erecting some monument in the beautiful wood

to his memory, and showed me a copy of verses, not devoid of merit,

which she thought of inscribing on it to his honor; but she never

carried out the suggestion of her affectionate admiration; and to

those who knew and loved Mendelssohn (alas! the expressions are

synonymous), the glorious wood itself, where he walked and mused and

held converse with the spirit of Shakespeare, forms a solemn sylvan

temple, forever consecrated to tender memories of his bright genius

and lovely character.

When first I knew Mrs. Grote, however, her artistic sympathies were

keenly excited in a very different direction; for she had

undertaken, under some singular impulse of mistaken enthusiasm, to

make what she called "an honest woman" of the celebrated dancer,

Fanny Ellsler, and to introduce her into London society,--neither of

them very attainable results, even for as valiant and enterprising

a person as Mrs. Grote. When first I heard of this strange

undertaking I was, in common with most of her friends, much

surprised at it; nor was it until some years after the entire

failure of this quixotic experiment, that I became aware that she

had been actuated by any motive but the kindliest and most mistaken

enthusiasm.

Mademoiselle Ellsler was at this time at the height of her great and

deserved popularity as a dancer, and whatever I may have thought of

the expediency or possibility of making what Mrs. Grote called "an

honest woman" of her, I was among the most enthusiastic admirers of

her great excellence in her elegant art. She was the only

intellectual dancer I have ever seen. Inferior to Taglioni (that

embodied genius of rhythmical motion) in lightness, grace, and

sentiment; to Carlotta Grisi in the two latter qualities; and with

less mere vigor and elasticity than Cerito, she excelled them all in

dramatic expression; and parts of her performance in the ballets of

the "Tarantella" and the wild legend of "Gisele, the Willye,"

exhibited tragic power of a very high order, while the same strongly

dramatic element was the cause of her pre-eminence in all national

and characteristic dances, such as El Jaleo de Xeres, the

Cracovienne, et cetera. This predominance of the intellectual

element in her dancing may have been the result of original

organization, or it may have been owing to the mental training which

Ellsler received from Frederic von Genz, Gensius, the German writer

and diplomatist, who educated her, and whose mistress she became

while still quite a young girl. However that may be, Mrs. Grote

always maintained that her genius lay full as much in her head as in

her heels. I am not sure that the finest performance of hers that I

ever witnessed was not a minuet in which she danced the man's part,

in full court-suit of the time of Louis XVI., with most admirable

grace and nobility of demeanor.

Mrs. Grote labored hard to procure her acceptance in society; her

personal kindness to her was of the most generous description: but

her great object of making "an honest woman" of her, I believe

failed signally in every way.

On one occasion I paid Mrs. Grote a visit at Burnham Beeches. Our

party consisted only of my sister and myself; the Viennese composer,

Dessauer; and Chorley, the musical critic of the _Athenaeum_, who

was very intimately acquainted with us all. The eccentricities of

our hostess, with which some of us were already tolerably familiar,

were a source of unfeigned amazement and awe to Dessauer, who,

himself the most curious, quaint, and withal nervously excitable and

irritable humorist, was thrown into alternate convulsions of

laughter and spasms of terror at the portentous female figure, who,

with a stick in her hand, a man's hat on her head, and a coachman's

box-coat of drab cloth with manifold capes over her petticoats

(English women had not yet then adopted a costume undistinguishable

from that of the other sex), stalked about the house and grounds,

alternately superintending various matters of the domestic economy,

and discussing, with equal knowledge and discrimination, questions

of musical criticism and taste.

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