And these two trifles are types which I should like to put, by way of

proviso and apology, at the very beginning of any attempt at a record of

any impressions of a foreign society. They serve merely to illustrate

the most important impression of all, the impression of how false all

impressions may be. I suspect that most of the very false impressions

have come from the careful record of very true facts. They have come

from the fatal power of observing the facts without being able to

observe the truth. They came from seeing the symbol with the most vivid

clarity and being blind to all that it symbolises. It is as if a man who

knew no Greek should imagine that he could read a Greek inscription

because he took the Greek R for an English P or the Greek long E for an

English H. I do not mention this merely as a criticism on other people's

impressions of America, but as a criticism on my own. I wish it to be

understood that I am well aware that all my views are subject to this

sort of potential criticism, and that even when I am certain of the

facts I do not profess to be certain of the deductions.

In this chapter I hope to point out how a misunderstanding of this kind

affects the common impression, not altogether unfounded, that the

Americans talk about dollars. But for the moment I am merely anxious to

avoid a similar misunderstanding when I talk about Americans. About the

dogmas of democracy, about the right of a people to its own symbols,

whether they be coins or customs, I am convinced, and no longer to be

shaken. But about the meaning of those symbols, in silver or other

substances, I am always open to correction. That error is the price we

pay for the great glory of nationality. And in this sense I am quite

ready, at the start, to warn my own readers against my own opinions.

The fact without the truth is futile; indeed the fact without the truth

is false. I have already noted that this is especially true touching our

observations of a strange country; and it is certainly true touching one

small fact which has swelled into a large fable. I mean the fable about

America commonly summed up in the phrase about the Almighty Dollar. I do

not think the dollar is almighty in America; I fancy many things are

mightier, including many ideals and some rather insane ideals. But I

think it might be maintained that the dollar has another of the

attributes of deity. If it is not omnipotent it is in a sense

omnipresent. Whatever Americans think about dollars, it is, I think,

relatively true that they talk about dollars. If a mere mechanical

record could be taken by the modern machinery of dictaphones and

stenography, I do not think it probable that the mere word 'dollars'

would occur more often in any given number of American conversations

than the mere word 'pounds' or 'shillings' in a similar number of

English conversations. And these statistics, like nearly all statistics,

would be utterly useless and even fundamentally false. It is as if we

should calculate that the word 'elephant' had been mentioned a certain

number of times in a particular London street, or so many times more

often than the word 'thunderbolt' had been used in Stoke Poges.

Doubtless there are statisticians capable of carefully collecting those

statistics also; and doubtless there are scientific social reformers

capable of legislating on the basis of them. They would probably argue

from the elephantine imagery of the London street that such and such a

percentage of the householders were megalomaniacs and required medical

care and police coercion. And doubtless their calculations, like nearly

all such calculations, would leave out the only important point; as that

the street was in the immediate neighbourhood of the Zoo, or was yet

more happily situated under the benignant shadow of the Elephant and

Castle. And in the same way the mechanical calculation about the mention

of dollars is entirely useless unless we have some moral understanding

of why they are mentioned. It certainly does not mean merely a love of

money; and if it did, a love of money may mean a great many very

different and even contrary things. The love of money is very different

in a peasant or in a pirate, in a miser or in a gambler, in a great

financier or in a man doing some practical and productive work. Now this

difference in the conversation of American and English business men

arises, I think, from certain much deeper things in the American which

are generally not understood by the Englishman. It also arises from much

deeper things in the Englishman, of which the Englishman is even more

ignorant.

To begin with, I fancy that the American, quite apart from any love of

money, has a great love of measurement. He will mention the exact size

or weight of things, in a way which appears to us as irrelevant. It is

as if we were to say that a man came to see us carrying three feet of

walking stick and four inches of cigar. It is so in cases that have no

possible connection with any avarice or greed for gain. An American will

praise the prodigal generosity of some other man in giving up his own

estate for the good of the poor. But he will generally say that the

philanthropist gave them a 200-acre park, where an Englishman would

think it quite sufficient to say that he gave them a park. There is

something about this precision which seems suitable to the American

atmosphere; to the hard sunlight, and the cloudless skies, and the

glittering detail of the architecture and the landscape; just as the

vaguer English version is consonant to our mistier and more

impressionist scenery. It is also connected perhaps with something more

boyish about the younger civilisation; and corresponds to the passionate

particularity with which a boy will distinguish the uniforms of

regiments, the rigs of ships, or even the colours of tram tickets. It is

a certain godlike appetite for things, as distinct from thoughts.

But there is also, of course, a much deeper cause of the difference; and

it can easily be deduced by noting the real nature of the difference

itself. When two business men in a train are talking about dollars I am

not so foolish as to expect them to be talking about the philosophy of

St. Thomas Aquinas. But if they were two English business men I should

not expect them to be talking about business. Probably it would be about

some sport; and most probably some sport in which they themselves never

dreamed of indulging. The approximate difference is that the American

talks about his work and the Englishman about his holidays. His ideal is

not labour but leisure. Like every other national characteristic, this

is not primarily a point for praise or blame; in essence it involves

neither and in effect it involves both. It is certainly connected with

that snobbishness which is the great sin of English society. The

Englishman does love to conceive himself as a sort of country gentleman;

and his castles in the air are all castles in Scotland rather than in

Spain. For, as an ideal, a Scotch castle is as English as a Welsh

rarebit or an Irish stew. And if he talks less about money I fear it is

sometimes because in one sense he thinks more of it. Money is a mystery

in the old and literal sense of something too sacred for speech. Gold is

a god; and like the god of some agnostics has no name and is worshipped

only in his works. It is true in a sense that the English gentleman

wishes to have enough money to be able to forget it. But it may be

questioned whether he does entirely forget it. As against this weakness

the American has succeeded, at the price of a great deal of crudity and

clatter, in making general a very real respect for work. He has partly

disenchanted the dangerous glamour of the gentleman, and in that sense

has achieved some degree of democracy; which is the most difficult

achievement in the world.

On the other hand, there is a good side to the Englishman's day-dream of

leisure, and one which the American spirit tends to miss. It may be

expressed in the word 'holiday' or still better in the word 'hobby.' The

Englishman, in his character of Robin Hood, really has got two strings

to his bow. Indeed the Englishman really is well represented by Robin

Hood; for there is always something about him that may literally be

called outlawed, in the sense of being extra-legal or outside the rules.

A Frenchman said of Browning that his centre was not in the middle; and

it may be said of many an Englishman that his heart is not where his

treasure is. Browning expressed a very English sentiment when he said:--

I like to know a butcher paints,

A baker rhymes for his pursuit,

Candlestick-maker much acquaints

His soul with song, or haply mute

Blows out his brains upon the flute.

Stevenson touched on the same insular sentiment when he said that many

men he knew, who were meat-salesmen to the outward eye, might in the

life of contemplation sit with the saints. Now the extraordinary

achievement of the American meat-salesman is that his poetic enthusiasm

can really be for meat sales; not for money but for meat. An American

commercial traveller asked me, with a religious fire in his eyes,

whether I did not think that salesmanship could be an art. In England

there are many salesmen who are sincerely fond of art; but seldom of the

art of salesmanship. Art is with them a hobby; a thing of leisure and

liberty. That is why the English traveller talks, if not of art, then of

sport. That is why the two city men in the London train, if they are not

talking about golf, may be talking about gardening. If they are not

talking about dollars, or the equivalent of dollars, the reason lies

much deeper than any superficial praise or blame touching the desire for

wealth. In the English case, at least, it lies very deep in the English

spirit. Many of the greatest English things have had this lighter and

looser character of a hobby or a holiday experiment. Even a masterpiece

has often been a by-product. The works of Shakespeare come out so

casually that they can be attributed to the most improbable people; even

to Bacon. The sonnets of Shakespeare are picked up afterwards as if out

of a wastepaper basket. The immortality of Dr. Johnson does not rest on

the written leaves he collected, but entirely on the words he wasted,

the words he scattered to the winds. So great a thing as Pickwick is

almost a kind of accident; it began as something secondary and grew into

something primary and pre-eminent. It began with mere words written to

illustrate somebody else's pictures; and swelled like an epic expanded

from an epigram. It might almost be said that in the case of Pickwick

the author began as the servant of the artist. But, as in the same story

of Pickwick, the servant became greater than the master. This

incalculable and accidental quality, like all national qualities, has

its strength and weakness; but it does represent a certain reserve fund

of interests in the Englishman's life; and distinguishes him from the

other extreme type, of the millionaire who works till he drops, or who

drops because he stops working. It is the great achievement of American

civilisation that in that country it really is not cant to talk about

the dignity of labour. There is something that might almost be called

the sanctity of labour; but it is subject to the profound law that when

anything less than the highest becomes a sanctity, it tends also to

become a superstition. When the candlestick-maker does not blow out his

brains upon the flute there is always a danger that he may blow them out

somewhere else, owing to depressed conditions in the candlestick market.

Now certainly one of the first impressions of America, or at any rate

of New York, which is by no means the same thing as America, is that of

a sort of mob of business men, behaving in many ways in a fashion very

different from that of the swarms of London city men who go up every day

to the city. They sit about in groups with Red-Indian gravity, as if

passing the pipe of peace; though, in fact, most of them are smoking

cigars and some of them are eating cigars. The latter strikes me as one

of the most peculiar of transatlantic tastes, more peculiar than that of

chewing gum. A man will sit for hours consuming a cigar as if it were a

sugar-stick; but I should imagine it to be a very disagreeable

sugar-stick. Why he attempts to enjoy a cigar without lighting it I do

not know; whether it is a more economical way of carrying a mere symbol

of commercial conversation; or whether something of the same queer

outlandish morality that draws such a distinction between beer and

ginger beer draws an equally ethical distinction between touching

tobacco and lighting it. For the rest, it would be easy to make a merely

external sketch full of things equally strange; for this can always be

done in a strange country. I allow for the fact of all foreigners

looking alike; but I fancy that all those hard-featured faces, with

spectacles and shaven jaws, do look rather alike, because they all like

to make their faces hard. And with the mention of their mental attitude

we realise the futility of any such external sketch. Unless we can see

that these are something more than men smoking cigars and talking about

dollars we had much better not see them at all.

It is customary to condemn the American as a materialist because of his

worship of success. But indeed this very worship, like any worship,

even devil-worship, proves him rather a mystic than a materialist. The

Frenchman who retires from business when he has money enough to drink

his wine and eat his omelette in peace might much more plausibly be

called a materialist by those who do not prefer to call him a man of

sense. But Americans do worship success in the abstract, as a sort of

ideal vision. They follow success rather than money; they follow money

rather than meat and drink. If their national life in one sense is a

perpetual game of poker, they are playing excitedly for chips or

counters as well as for coins. And by the ultimate test of material

enjoyment, like the enjoyment of an omelette, even a coin is itself a

counter. The Yankee cannot eat chips as the Frenchman can eat chipped

potatoes; but neither can he swallow red cents as the Frenchman swallows

red wine. Thus when people say of a Yankee that he worships the dollar,

they pay a compliment to his fine spirituality more true and delicate

than they imagine. The dollar is an idol because it is an image; but it

is an image of success and not of enjoyment.

That this romance is also a religion is shown in the fact that there is

a queer sort of morality attached to it. The nearest parallel to it is

something like the sense of honour in the old duelling days. There is

not a material but a distinctly moral savour about the implied

obligation to collect dollars or to collect chips. We hear too much in

England of the phrase about 'making good'; for no sensible Englishman

favours the needless interlarding of English with scraps of foreign

languages. But though it means nothing in English, it means something

very particular in American. There is a fine shade of distinction

between succeeding and making good, precisely because there must always

be a sort of ethical echo in the word good. America does vaguely feel a

man making good as something analogous to a man being good or a man

doing good. It is connected with his serious self-respect and his sense

of being worthy of those he loves. Nor is this curious crude idealism

wholly insincere even when it drives him to what some of us would call

stealing; any more than the duellist's honour was insincere when it

drove him to what some would call murder. A very clever American play

which I once saw acted contained a complete working model of this

morality. A girl was loyal to, but distressed by, her engagement to a

young man on whom there was a sort of cloud of humiliation. The

atmosphere was exactly what it would have been in England if he had been

accused of cowardice or card-sharping. And there was nothing whatever

the matter with the poor young man except that some rotten mine or other

in Arizona had not 'made good.' Now in England we should either be below

or above that ideal of good. If we were snobs, we should be content to

know that he was a gentleman of good connections, perhaps too much

accustomed to private means to be expected to be businesslike. If we

were somewhat larger-minded people, we should know that he might be as

wise as Socrates and as splendid as Bayard and yet be unfitted, perhaps

one should say therefore be unfitted, for the dismal and dirty gambling

of modern commerce. But whether we were snobbish enough to admire him

for being an idler, or chivalrous enough to admire him for being an

outlaw, in neither case should we ever really and in our hearts despise

him for being a failure. For it is this inner verdict of instinctive

idealism that is the point at issue. Of course there is nothing new, or

peculiar to the new world, about a man's engagement practically failing

through his financial failure. An English girl might easily drop a man

because he was poor, or she might stick to him faithfully and defiantly

although he was poor. The point is that this girl was faithful but she

was not defiant; that is, she was not proud. The whole psychology of the

situation was that she shared the weird worldly idealism of her family,

and it was wounded as her patriotism would have been wounded if he had

betrayed his country. To do them justice, there was nothing to show that

they would have had any real respect for a royal duke who had inherited

millions; what the simple barbarians wanted was a man who could 'make

good.' That the process of making good would probably drag him through

the mire of everything bad, that he would make good by bluffing, lying,

swindling, and grinding the faces of the poor, did not seem to trouble

them in the least. Against this fanaticism there is this shadow of truth

even in the fiction of aristocracy; that a gentleman may at least be

allowed to be good without being bothered to make it.

Another objection to the phrase about the almighty dollar is that it is

an almighty phrase, and therefore an almighty nuisance. I mean that it

is made to explain everything, and to explain everything much too well;

that is, much too easily. It does not really help people to understand a

foreign country; but it gives them the fatal illusion that they do

understand it. Dollars stood for America as frogs stood for France;

because it was necessary to connect particular foreigners with

something, or it would be so easy to confuse a Moor with a Montenegrin

or a Russian with a Red Indian. The only cure for this sort of satisfied

familiarity is the shock of something really unfamiliar. When people can

see nothing at all in American democracy except a Yankee running after a

dollar, then the only thing to do is to trip them up as they run after

the Yankee, or run away with their notion of the Yankee, by the obstacle

of certain odd and obstinate facts that have no relation to that notion.

And, as a matter of fact, there are a number of such obstacles to any

such generalisation; a number of notable facts that have to be

reconciled somehow to our previous notions. It does not matter for this

purpose whether the facts are favourable or unfavourable, or whether the

qualities are merits or defects; especially as we do not even understand

them sufficiently to say which they are. The point is that we are

brought to a pause, and compelled to attempt to understand them rather

better than we do. We have found the one thing that we did not expect;

and therefore the one thing that we cannot explain. And we are moved to

an effort, probably an unsuccessful effort, to explain it.

For instance, Americans are very unpunctual. That is the last thing that

a critic expects who comes to condemn them for hustling and haggling and

vulgar ambition. But it is almost the first fact that strikes the

spectator on the spot. The chief difference between the humdrum English

business man and the hustling American business man is that the hustling

American business man is always late. Of course there is a great deal of

difference between coming late and coming too late. But I noticed the

fashion first in connection with my own lectures; touching which I

could heartily recommend the habit of coming too late. I could easily

understand a crowd of commercial Americans not coming to my lectures at

all; but there was something odd about their coming in a crowd, and the

crowd being expected to turn up some time after the appointed hour. The

managers of these lectures (I continue to call them lectures out of

courtesy to myself) often explained to me that it was quite useless to

begin properly until about half an hour after time. Often people were

still coming in three-quarters of an hour or even an hour after time.

Not that I objected to that, as some lecturers are said to do; it seemed

to me an agreeable break in the monotony; but as a characteristic of a

people mostly engaged in practical business, it struck me as curious and

interesting. I have grown accustomed to being the most unbusinesslike

person in any given company; and it gave me a sort of dizzy exaltation

to find I was not the most unpunctual person in that company. I was

afterwards told by many Americans that my impression was quite correct;

that American unpunctuality was really very prevalent, and extended to

much more important things. But at least I was not content to lump this

along with all sorts of contrary things that I did not happen to like,

and call it America. I am not sure of what it really means, but I rather

fancy that though it may seem the very reverse of the hustling, it has

the same origin as the hustling. The American is not punctual because he

is not punctilious. He is impulsive, and has an impulse to stay as well

as an impulse to go. For, after all, punctuality belongs to the same

order of ideas as punctuation; and there is no punctuation in

telegrams. The order of clocks and set hours which English business has

always observed is a good thing in its own way; indeed I think that in a

larger sense it is better than the other way. But it is better because

it is a protection against hustling, not a promotion of it. In other

words, it is better because it is more civilised; as a great Venetian

merchant prince clad in cloth of gold was more civilised; or an old

English merchant drinking port in an oak-panelled room was more

civilised; or a little French shopkeeper shutting up his shop to play

dominoes is more civilised. And the reason is that the American has the

romance of business and is monomaniac, while the Frenchman has the

romance of life and is sane. But the romance of business really is a

romance, and the Americans are really romantic about it. And that

romance, though it revolves round pork or petrol, is really like a

love-affair in this; that it involves not only rushing but also

lingering.

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