with the back of the fork, to the height of about four feet, making the
centre somewhat higher than the sides, to allow for settling. The frame
should be of 1-1/4 inch pine, twenty inches high at the back, and
seventeen inches in front, and may be put together with hooks and
staples, so as to be removed and stored, when not in use. The sashes
should be six by three and a half feet, and the frame should have
cross-bars at every sash for support. It is well to have the frame
divided by partitions into two or three compartments, that one section
may receive more or less ventilation as the plants grown in them may
require. In three or four days the heat will be up in the bed, and then
it should be covered with six inches of fine garden mould, which should
be raked off level. When the soil is heated through, the seeds may be
sown. Ventilation should be given to let off the steam and vitiated air,
but with caution to avoid the loss of heat. Straw mats will be required
to cover the sashes at night, and should be regularly put on. If the
weather is very cold, shutters or boards in addition are necessary. If
care is exercised in the management, the heat will be maintained as long
as is desirable.
Figure 2 represents the hot-bed partly beneath the surface.
The frame in this case will be fifteen inches in height at the back, and
twelve inches in front, constructed in the same manner as that before
described. The materials and the general preparation of the bed is also
the same. A space of about eight inches should be left between the
surface of the mould and the glass, to allow for the growth of plants
before the sashes can be removed. Coarse litter should be put around the
frame, and up even with the top of it, to confine the heat. Beds should
be well covered before the sun has left them in the afternoon, and not
opened in the morning until the sun is well up. Seeds of vegetables for
early planting, and those of annual flowers may be sown, and cuttings of
green-house and bedding plants started in pots. Such a bed will also be
a favorable place for the propagation of grape eyes, in which an
experienced person will often succeed better by this humble means, than
with the best designed and most conveniently arranged propagating house.
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
THE COLD PIT.
Many who have not the advantage of a green-house, wish to preserve over
the winter their half-hardy plants which have ornamented their garden
during the summer. These are generally consigned to the cellar to dry up
and be forgotten. In the darkness they loose their leaves, and when in
spring they are again brought to light many are dried up and dead.
Properly constructed cold pits offer superior advantages for the
protection of many plants of a half-hardy nature, and indeed some that
are usually considered tender here find a congenial location. Such a pit
should be permanent in its character, and located in a spot easy of
access to the house, that it may receive proper attention during the
winter. A convenient size, and one sufficient for an ordinary garden
would be ten feet long by five wide, varied somewhat from these
dimensions to suit size of glass in sashes. The pit should be excavated
four feet and a half below the surface, and a hollow wall of brick built
up to one foot above the surface. Six inches in depth of coarse gravel
should be placed in the bottom on which the pots containing the plants
rest. Shelves may be also placed around the sides for the smaller
plants. The wall above the ground should be "banked up" to within three
inches of the top and sodded.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--_Cold Pit._]
Double sashes we have found give great protection and save attention in
covering the pit. The bars of these sashes are "rabbited" on both sides
and double glazed, thus enclosing a stratum of air affording a good
non-conductor of heat from within, or cold from without the pit. The
plants when first put in the pit will require to be watered and the
sashes opened during the day, until cold weather. But little water is
required during winter, as the plants are in a state of rest, and
partial dryness at the roots is of advantage. In very severe weather
straw mats would be required, but the double glass would keep out 10 to
15 degrees of frost. Some ventilation must be given on mild days when
the sun is bright to carry off the dampness, but in dull cold weather
all should be kept closed up. Camellias and Azaleas do admirably in such
quarters, and can be brought into the dwelling and flowered at any time
during the winter. Many plants grow with surprising luxuriance after
remaining dormant in such quarters all winter. As the season advances in
the spring ventilation must be given during the day, closing the sashes
at night until the weather becomes mild when they may be gradually
removed altogether.
PROPAGATING HOUSES.
Cheap and effective propagating and plant houses, for Nurserymen, have
become of late years a necessity from the great increase of the trade in
flowering plants for the decoration of our gardens and green-houses, and
the very extensive demand for the new and superior varieties of the
native grape. PETER HENDERSON, Esq., of Jersey City, long known as an
extensive and successful propagator, in an article written for the
HORTICULTURIST, thus speaks of his house and management:
"After many years of extensive practice, I have arrived at the
conclusion that cuttings of almost every plant cultivated by the florist
or nurseryman will readily and uniformly root, if the proper conditions
of TEMPERATURE and MOISTURE are given them. It matters little or
nothing how the cutting is made, or what may be the color or texture of
the sand or soil in which it is planted; these have little or nothing to
do with the formation of roots. But an absolute condition of
_invariable_ success is uniformity of temperature and moisture. To
attain this uniformity, the structure of the house is of vital
importance; and it is owing to the erroneous construction of buildings
for this purpose that so many have to deplore their want of success. I
will briefly describe the construction of the propagating pit we have in
use, and the manner of operations, which will best explain my views on
the matter. The pit, which faces north, is 65 feet in length by 8 in
width, and 3 feet high at back by 1 in front, the pathway being dug out
to give head-room in walking. The front bench is 3 feet wide, walk 2
feet, and back bench 3 feet. All along the front bench run two wooden
gutters 9 inches wide by 3 inches deep, the water in which is heated by
a small conical boiler connected by two pieces of leaden pipe to the
gutters. Three inches above the water in the gutters is placed the slate
or flagging, (resting on cross slats of wood,) on which is two inches of
sand. By regular firing we keep a temperature _in the sand_ from 55 to
75 deg.; and as the pit has no other means of heating, except that given out
by the sand in the bench, the atmosphere of the house at night is only
from 40 deg. to 50 deg., or 25 degrees less than the "bottom heat." In the
daytime, (in order as much as possible to keep up this disparity between
the "top" and "bottom" heat,) a little air is given, and shading the
glass resorted to, to enable us to keep the temperature of the house
down. And here let me remark, that when propagation is attempted in
green-houses used for growing plants, (such houses facing south or
southeast,) the place usually used for the cuttings is the front table;
and it being injurious to the plants to shade the whole house, that part
over the cuttings alone is shaded; the consequence is, that the sun,
acting on the glass, runs the temperature of the house up, perhaps, to
80 deg., or _above_ that of the bottom heat, the cuttings wilt, and the
process of rooting is delayed, if not entirely defeated. All gardeners
know the difficulty of rooting cuttings as warm weather comes on. When
the thermometer marks 80 deg. in the shade fires are laid aside; and if the
rooting of cuttings is attempted, the sand or soil in which they are
planted will be 10 or 15 degrees _lower_ than the atmosphere, or the
opposite of the condition required for success.
The advantage possessed by the gutter or tank, as a means of bottom
heat, over smoke flues or pipes, is in its giving a uniform moisture,
cuttings scarcely ever requiring water after being first put in, and
then only to settle the sand about them. Still, when this convenience
is not to be had, very good success may be attained by closing in the
flue or pipes, regularity in watering, and a rigid adherence to these
degrees of temperature.
The propagating pit above described is used for the propagation of all
kinds of plants grown by florists, such as Camellias, Dahlias, Roses,
Verbenas, Fuchsias, Grape Vines, etc. The time required in rooting
cuttings of soft or young wood is from seven to ten days. Last season,
during the month of February, we took three crops of cuttings from it,
numbering in the aggregate forty thousand plants, without a loss of more
than one per cent. In fact, by this system we are now so confident of
success, that only the number of cuttings are put in corresponding with
the number of plants wanted, every cutting put in becoming a plant.
In this narrative of our system of propagating, Mr. Editor, I have not
attempted to theorize. I give the plain statement of operations as we
practice them, thoroughly believing that the want of success in every
case must be owing to a deviation from these rules. Ignoring entirely
most of the maxims laid down in the books, such as "use a sharp knife,"
and "cut at a joint," we use scissors mostly in lieu of a knife, and we
never look for a joint, unless it happens to come in the way. We are
equally skeptical as to the merits of favorite kinds and colors of
sands or other compounds used for the purpose. Of this we have reason to
be thankful, for a nicety of knowledge in this particular in the head of
a scientific (?) propagator may sometimes become an expensive affair.
A friend of mine, a nurseryman from the far west, deeply impressed with
our superior horticultural attainments in the Empire City, hired a
propagator at a handsome salary, and duly installed him in his
green-house department; but, alas! all his hopes were blighted. John
failed--signally failed--to strike a single cutting; and on looking
about him for the cause, quickly discovered that the fault lay entirely
in the sand! but my gullible friend, to leave no stone unturned,
freighted at once two tons of silver sand from New York to Illinois!
Need I tell the result, or that John was soon returned to where the sand
came from?"
During the past year, Mr. Henderson has erected an extensive range of
houses, after the following description and plan:
"I have read and examined from time to time, with much interest, your
remarks and sketches of Plant Houses, and it is not to dissent from your
views that I now write, although it seems to me that your ideas run all
one side of the matter, for your designs and descriptions are almost
exclusively of an ornamental character, and adapted only for
conservatories or graperies, leaving the uninitiated commercial
nurseryman or florist to look in vain for something to suit his case. I
have said that your ideas seem to be one-sided, in describing only
ornamental erections; they seem also so in your uniformly recommending
the fixed roof principle. Now, for the purposes of the florist or
nurseryman, I think there is but little doubt that the advantage is with
the sash over the fixed roof. The difference in cost is trifling;
probably a little in favor of the fixed roof; but balanced against that
is, that your house, once erected on your favorite plan, you are
emphatically "fixed." It is not portable, (unless made in sections,
which is only a bad compromise with the sash plan,) and any alteration
requiring to be made, your roof is of but little or no value. But the
most serious objection to it is the difficulty with air. I have never
yet seen a house built on the fixed roof principle that had means of
giving air so that plants could be grown in a proper manner, and I could
name dozens who have been induced to build on this plan, that one year's
experience has given them much reason to regret.
[Illustration: FIG. 4. _a, ground level.--b, bench or table on which to
stand plants, 4-1/2 feet wide.--c, 4 inch pipe, 3 in each house.--d,
pathway, 2 feet wide._]
We are now adopting for plant houses, low, narrow, span-roofed
buildings, formed by 6 feet sashes, one on each side, the _ends_ of the
houses facing north and south. These we attach three together, on the
"ridge and furrow" system, as shown in sketch. This system presents
great advantages, and, by using no cap on the ridge piece, air is given
in the simplest and safest manner, by the sash being raised by an iron
bar 9 or 10 inches long, pierced with holes, which answers the double
purpose of giving air and securing the sash, when closed, from being
blown off by heavy winds. There is no necessity for the sashes being
hinged at the bottom, as might be supposed; all that is required being
to nail a cleet along the wall plate, fitted tight to the bottom of each
sash. Every alternate sash is nailed down; the other is used in giving
air in the manner described.
The advantages of such erections are so obvious, that I need not
trespass much on your space to enumerate them. The plan can be adapted
to detached buildings already up, by erecting houses of the same length
alongside; or, in the erection of new houses, if not more than one is
wanted, it may be put up with a view to further extensions. I have had
four houses on this plan in operation for nearly two years, and I have
never before had so much satisfaction with any thing of the kind.
Intending next season to remove my green-houses from their present site,
all shall be put up after this style."
Messrs. Parsons & Co., of Flushing have also built several houses
similar in design for the propagation of grape vines. These latter are
heated by brick flues and have proved very satisfactory. The vines are
grown in beds and not staked. Pot culture in the usual manner would
require greater height of roof. The only objection that we can see to
houses built in this manner is the accumulation of snow in the furrows.
Mr. Henderson assures us that this is not an objection of any moment in
this latitude, and that the expense attending the removal of snow is too
slight to be considered.
DESIGN No. 1.
Figures 5 and 6 are a section and ground plan of a propagating house for
growing grape vines, but it might serve as well for other plants. The
length of the house is on an east and west line, giving a northern
exposure to the roof on one side, the opposite facing the south. A board
partition runs through the centre dividing the house into two. This
partition might be made movable, so that at any time the house could all
be thrown into one. The foundations are of stone projecting 6 inches
above the ground. Two and a half feet of vertical boarding, above which
is two feet of sash, give a height of four and a half feet above the
foundation for the side of the house. The side sashes are hinged for
ventilation. Top ventilation is afforded at the ridge by ventilators
raised by rods from the inside. The roof is on the fixed principle that
is composed of sash bars extending from plate to ridge, in which the
glass is set. In the north division a combination of the tank and flue
systems of heating is adopted, by which economy of fuel to a
considerable extent is effected. The boiler is so set that the back of
it and all the connecting pipes are inside of the house, only the fire
and ash pit doors project through the brick partition into the boiler
pit. Much heat is generally wasted from hot water boilers by the direct
connection of the chimney with the outer air, that might be saved by
means of a well constructed flue. It will be seen that the smoke from
the boiler is carried under the tank, in this instance through 8 inch
vitrified drain pipe. To prevent the cracking of the pipe near the
boiler the first 6 or 8 feet is laid with cast iron pipe. Wooden tanks
built on posts and elevated two feet above the floor furnish bottom
heat. These tanks are two feet six inches wide and six inches deep,
built of 1-1/4 inch pine, well put together with white lead and securely
nailed and screwed. A division through the centre separates the flow and
return water. Roofing slate of proper size is used to cover the top, the
joints of which are carefully cemented to prevent the escape of steam.
Sand is placed directly on the slate as a plunging material for the pots
containing cuttings. In the south division tanks are also used, but as
the plants are potted off when placed there, bottom heat is not so
necessary; the sand is dispensed with and the pots rest on a shelf or
table built about two inches above the tanks, allowing the heat radiated
from the slate to diffuse itself through the house. Slides in each tank
afford means of shutting off the water allowing each house to be worked
independently. The centre of house is occupied by an earth bed in which
the plants (after becoming well rooted in the small pots, to which they
are first transferred from the cutting pots) are carefully transplanted
and will form large and vigorous vines by the end of the season.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--_Section of Propagating House._]
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--_Plan._]
DESIGN No. 2.
In Figure 7 is given a perspective view of a propagating house of an
ornamental character. It is intended for forcing early vegetables,
strawberries, grapes in pots, and such general propagation of plants as
are needed on a country place of moderate extent. The curvilinear roof
gives beauty to the design as well as affording more head room inside
than the ordinary straight rafter.
[Illustration: FIG. 7.--_Perspective View._]
The pitch of the roof is quite flat, a straight line between the ends of
the rafter forming an angle of only 28 degrees with the horizon. It was
desirable to have the roof as low as was consistent with sufficient head
room, that the plants might be as near the glass as possible, without
the necessity of high staging in the centre. The house has the ends to
the east and west. At the west end is an ante-room, not shown in
perspective view, containing the boiler, seed drawers, desk, &c. On the
north side of house are beds for propagating plants, and the south side
is used for early vegetables, strawberries, &c. In the centre is a large
bed of earth used for grapes in pots, vegetables and plants. A portion
of the roof on the south side can be raised when it is desirable to
harden off the plants in spring. The foundation is of wood, locust posts
being used, with boards nailed upon both sides and coated with coal tar.
The house is forty one feet long and sixteen feet wide, and is heated by
a tank constructed as follows: brick piers are built three feet apart on
which are laid common blue flag stones six feet long and two feet wide.
The sides and divisions of the tanks are built of brick, and cemented
inside. One of Hitchings & Co.'s boilers furnishes the heat, and is
connected with the tank by two inch iron pipe. Above the tanks are the
propagating beds as shown in figure 8. The tank, with the exception of
that part across the end of the house is covered with beds and no
provision is made for other heat than that radiated from the sides, and
that portion left uncovered at the end. In the practical working of the
house, this has been found insufficient, and pipes have been introduced
for atmospheric heat, the tanks being still retained for bottom heat.
[Illustration: FIG. 8.--_Section._]
[Illustration: FIG. 9.--_Ground Plan._]
[Illustration: FIG. 10.--_Perspective View._]
DESIGN No. 3.
The following plan is similar to the one previously given, and was
erected for the same general purposes. It has, however, been found to
answer so well for a general green-house, that there is but little
forcing or propagation carried on. At the east end is the boiler pit,
seed room, &c.; the roof of which is of tongued and grooved boards bent
to the curve of the roof and battened. The foundation is of stone, and
the whole house of a substantial character. Bottom heat is furnished by
brick tanks built in the same manner as before described, the water in
which is heated by iron pipes running through the tanks (see section
_Fig._ 12.) The pipes being also used to heat a grapery near by on a
higher level, it was necessary to carry them thus. This arrangement for
bottom heat is not as good as when the water flows directly into the
tank from the boiler. There is a large bed in centre of house in which
pots of plants are plunged, and considerable shelving at ends of house.
Bottom ventilation is obtained by six inch earthen drain pipe, placed on
a level with the floor inside and running through the wall and up to
the surface of the ground outside, where they are covered with wooden
caps for regulating the amount of air required. Ventilators are placed
over the doors and in the opposite end of house, in addition to which,
the sash in the doors are hinged and can be opened when needful.
[Illustration: FIG. 11.--_Ground Plan._]
[Illustration: FIG. 12.--_Section._]
DESIGN No. 4.
This design combines a grapery, and forcing, and propagating house in
one. _Figs._ 13, 14, 15, show side elevation, south front, and section
through the centre. The dimensions are twenty feet in width by forty
three feet in length, to which ten feet have since been added, enclosing
boiler pit C. and potting room not shown in sketch. The foundation is
built on locust posts with plank nailed upon both sides. Such
foundations we do not advocate, as they are a bill of expense, for
needful repairs, every four or five years, and the additional outlay for
permanent brick or stone foundations is money well invested. In the
present case, the owners wishes were carried out. On the ground plan,
that part designated A. is devoted to the growth of grapes. The border
is all inside of the house and is about three feet in depth. At the
dotted line a wall is built across the house to sustain the border, the
floor of B. being two feet lower. The central portion of B. is devoted
to grapes in pots. At the sides of B. are beds for propagating plants,
forcing vegetables, &c., furnished with bottom heat from brick tanks
which extend entirely around the house and heat the grapery part as
well.
[Illustration: FIG. 13.--_Side Elevation._]
[Illustration: FIG. 14.--_South Front._]
[Illustration: FIG. 15.--_Section._]
Pipes laid underground from the outside furnish fresh air when desired
and ventilation in the roof is also provided for.
[Illustration: FIG. 16.--_Ground Plan._]
DESIGN No. 5.
The following design is a house with a straight roof of low pitch, and
was built with considerate regard to cost, for which reason, among
others, the foundations are of wood, and side lights are omitted. The
sides are of inch and a half plank nailed to locust posts, the space
between the inside and outside lining being filled with charcoal dust.
Such foundations do very well at first, but the wood in contact with the
ground will decay in three or four years, and require repairs--though
locust posts will last for many years.
This house is quite narrow, being only twelve feet wide. It has tables
on either side and a walk in the middle, through which is a row of light
posts to support climbing plants. Ventilation is effected at the ridge
by six ventilators. There are also ventilators over and in the doors.
The house is heated by two four inch pipes under the tables. The boiler
pit is located in a sunken shed outside, not shown in the plan. This
house has been used for growing such plants as are generally found in an
amateur's collection, and has given satisfactory results.
[Illustration: FIG. 17.--_Perspective View._]
[Illustration: FIG. 18.--_Ground Plan._]
DESIGN No. 6.
Our next illustration is of a green-house and grapery combined, seventy
feet in length by twenty feet wide. It is divided by a glass partition
into two compartments, either of which can be heated at pleasure from
the same boiler, by means of cut-offs in the pipes. This house was
designed to be heated entirely by the tank system, but pipes were
afterwards substituted except for the propagating beds. This house is
located on a large village lot at Kingston, N. Y., near the dwelling,
and is in full view of the street. The exposure is all that could be
desired, and the protection from northerly winds perfect. A boiler pit
is located outside, at the side of the building, over which a handsome
summer-house is built which shields it entirely from view. The
foundation is of brick, and the whole workmanship is first class. The
side sashes are three feet high, and each alternate one is hung for
bottom ventilation. There are also the usual ventilators in the roof.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.--_Ground Plan._]
[Illustration: FIG. 20.--_Section._]
[Illustration: FIG. 21.--_South Front._]
DESIGN No. 7.
[Illustration: FIG. 22.--_Perspective._]
[Illustration: FIG. 23.--_Section._]
[Illustration: FIG. 24.--_Ground Plan._]