GREELY’S EXPEDITION (1881−84)
Lieutenant Weyprecht, of the Austro-Hungarian Expedition, at the meeting
of the German Scientific and Medical Association, at Gratz, in September
1875, presented a plea for systematic Polar exploration and research.
A Commission, appointed by Prince Bismarck to consider the question,
strongly commended the plan to the Bundesrath and to all interested
nations.
The Turko-Russian War delayed the question until 1879, when an
International Polar Conference met at Hamburg in October. At this
Conference twelve stations were agreed upon, one of which was to be in
the Archipelago of North America.
The United States did not at first take any action in the matter, but
ultimately they decided that the Signal Service should form a Polar
station at Lady Franklin Bay, and carry out the programme outlined by
the Hamburg Polar Conference.
A sum of 25000 dollars was appropriated for the expedition, and
Lieutenant Greely was appointed to the command. He was instructed to
establish the station near Lady Franklin Bay and contiguous to the
coal-seam discovered by the English Expedition of 1875. The steamer on
arrival at the station was to discharge her cargo and then return to St.
John’s, Newfoundland. Lieutenant Greely was also instructed that it was
contemplated that the station would be visited in 1882 and in 1883 by a
steamer, sailing, or other vessel, by which supplies as would be deemed
needful would be sent. In case the vessel was unable to reach the
station in 1882, she was to cache a portion of her supplies at the most
northerly point attained on the east coast of Grinnell Land. In case no
vessel reached the station in 1882, the vessel sent in 1883 was to
remain in Smith Sound until there was danger of its closing by ice, and,
on leaving, was to land all her supplies and a party at Littleton
Island. This party was to be prepared for a winter’s stay, and was to be
instructed to send sledge-parties up the east side of Grinnell Land to
meet Greely’s party.
If not visited in 1882, Lieutenant Greely was to abandon his station not
later than 1st September 1883, and to retreat southward by boat,
following closely the east coast of Grinnell Land until the relieving
vessel was met or Littleton Island reached.
The arrangements promised in these instructions to Greely are of great
importance in the light of subsequent events.
The steamer _Proteus_ was selected to convey the party to Lady Franklin
Bay. She was a barkentine-rigged steamer of oak with two compound
engines, 110 horse-power, 467 tons register, had an iron-armed prow, and
was sheathed with iron-wood from above the water-line to below the turn
of the bilge. Her screw was self-lifting, she had spare rudder and
propeller, and was in every respect suitable for ice-navigation. The
charter of this vessel consumed over ¾ of the appropriation, leaving
less than 6000 dollars for the special outfit of the party.
The master of the _Proteus_, Richard Pike, had for many years been
engaged in the seal fishery of the Labrador ice, and was one of the most
experienced captains and ice-navigators of Newfoundland.
Greely’s party, numbering twenty-three men in all, left St. John’s,
Newfoundland, on 7th July 1881. Lieutenant Kislingbury was the second in
command, and Lieutenant Lockwood was third. Dr. Pavy, the surgeon of the
expedition, had spent the preceding year in Greenland, and joined the
party at Godhavn.
Gales and thick weather delayed the _Proteus_, and the island of Disco,
at Godhavn, was not reached until the 15th July. Twelve dogs with a
supply of dog-food were purchased here, and the _Proteus_ again sailed
on 21st July. Some more dogs with food and other supplies were obtained
at Ritenbenk, and a considerable number of sea-birds were shot and hung
up in the rigging to dry. At Upernavik two Eskimo were engaged: Thorlip
Frederik Christiansen, aged thirty-five, and Jens Edward, aged
thirty-eight.
From the Berry Islands a direct course was laid for Cape York, which was
sighted on the 31st July. Melville Bay had been found almost clear of
ice, and was crossed in the remarkably short period of thirty-six hours.
The Carey Islands were reached on the 1st of August, and the cairn
erected by Sir George Nares in 1875, and also the dépôt of 3600 rations,
were examined. On the whole, the dépôt was still in good condition.
A quantity of coal was landed on the extreme south-western point of
Littleton Island, and the mail landed by Sir Allen Young for the English
Expedition was discovered at the extreme northern end of the west coast.
To the northward from Littleton Island the sea was entirely free from
ice, and Greely decided not to touch at Cape Sabine, but to shape a
course for Cape Hawks. The dépôt left here by the English was visited,
and, with the exception of a portion of the bread, was found to be in
good condition. As Greely was short of boats, he took on with him the
English jolly-boat.
The cairn on Washington Irving Island was searched, and the record of
Nares was taken, and a copy left with a new record giving a brief
account of the expedition to date. Near Cape Frazer the first
palæocrystic floeberg was seen. A cache of 200 lb. of meat and 280 lb.
of bread was left at Carl Ritter Bay. Greely points out that the
indentation here is so slight, and the curve so great, that it is a
bight rather than a bay. The south-eastern part of Lady Franklin Bay was
reached on the 4th August, but here a heavy pack was met, and it was not
until the 11th that the _Proteus_ entered Discovery Harbour.
On entering the harbour, eleven musk-oxen were seen. They were
immediately followed, and all were shot. It was found that the _Proteus_
could not safely approach Watercourse Bay, and Greely therefore decided
to make his station on the shore of Discovery Harbour, near the quarters
of the English Expedition.
The site for a house was soon chosen, and the unloading of the vessel
was proceeded with. The station was named “Conger,” after Senator
Conger, who had interested himself specially in behalf of the
expedition. In addition to the general supplies, 130 tons of coal were
landed.
Greely records that, on the 25th August, Lieutenant Kislingbury, the
second in command, spent the day on the _Proteus_, and next day,
dissatisfied with the expeditionary regulations, requested that he be
relieved from duty with the expedition. His request was granted, and he
was ordered to report himself to the Chief Signal Officer on his return
to the States. However, just as Lieutenant Kislingbury was leaving the
station, the _Proteus_ got under way, and he was obliged to go back to
Conger. He did not afterwards return to duty as an officer. Greely gives
no explanation of the matter, but Lockwood in his diary states that one
of the annoyances complained of by Kislingbury was the rule that
officers should rise in the morning with the men.
A wooden house was constructed, 60 by 17 feet. Its walls were double,
the two coverings of ½-inch boards being separated by an air-space of
about a foot. The roof was only a single board thick, but was covered
(like the sides) with tar-paper. The house had also a ceiling, and the
space between this and the roof afforded an excellent storage-place for
articles which would have been injured by exposure. The interior of the
house was divided into three rooms, one 17 by 15 feet for the officers,
another 8 by 17 feet served partly as the cook’s kitchen and partly as
an entry, and the third room was used by the men. The house was
conveniently and pleasantly situated within 30 yards of the water’s
edge, on a small tableland between two brooks, which for a few months in
the year ran into the sea. The coal-mine was 4 miles distant, and could
be reached through a valley to the eastward.
The house had not been quite finished when field-work commenced. Greely
expresses the view that autumn sledging should be carefully planned,
attempted with great caution, and never pushed to great distances. He
states that in autumn temperatures the travelling-gear of a man once
wet, the chances of dangerous frost-bites and disaster increase.
On 30th August Dr. Pavy and Sergeant Rice, the photographer of the
expedition, were sent north as far as practicable towards Cape Joseph
Henry. They were to examine the condition of the English dépôt at
Lincoln Bay, and report on the practicability of autumn and spring
travelling by sledge along the Grinnell Land coast. They travelled with
packs, carrying a dog-tent, blankets, and provisions to last them as far
as the English dépôt, where their supplies could be renewed.
The dépôt at Lincoln Bay was missed in going north, and the party pushed
on to Cape Union before returning south. Here a channel of open water, 2
miles wide, was seen to stretch as far northward as the eye could reach.
In returning, the dépôt at Lincoln Bay was discovered, and was found to
be in bad order. Greely recommends that water-tight cases of very light
tin should be used in protecting stores thus cached.
Sergeant Rice, who had broken through the young ice on his way north,
was attacked on the way south by acute rheumatism. In spite of the
severe pain, he made a determined attempt to walk to the station, but
was ultimately forced to yield. The doctor made him as comfortable as
possible in the tent, and proceeded to Conger for assistance. A party of
men with a sledge and improvised stretcher was immediately dispatched,
and after considerable difficulty Rice was conveyed to the station. He
rapidly recovered, and ten days later was again in the field.
During Dr. Pavy’s absence, Greely established a large supply dépôt near
Cape Beechy. On 7th September, Greely visited the Bellows, a valley
about 15 miles from the station. Ten eider ducks were obtained, and nine
out of fourteen musk-cattle were killed.
Dr. Pavy, with Private Whisler and Eskimo Jens, left the station on 2nd
October to proceed to Cape Joseph Henry and lay out along the Grinnell
Land coast such dépôts of provisions as would facilitate spring travel
in that direction. A point near Mount Parry was ultimately reached, and
here 150 lb. of pemmican and 50 lb. bread were cached. The open
condition of the floe-ice in Robeson Channel prevented further advance.
Conger was again reached on the 9th.
On the 10th October, Lockwood established a small dépôt near Cape Baird.
On the 13th September a large pack of wolves made their appearance, and
for some time they were a source of danger. Greely decided to attempt to
poison them, and ultimately succeeded in poisoning four. The rest then
disappeared for that season.
On 17th September the first birthday occurred, and the occasion was
taken to inaugurate a practice, which was afterwards adhered to at
Conger, of exempting the man from duty and of allowing him to select the
dinner.
The temperature fell below zero on the 20th September, which Greely
believed was the earliest date on record. The first star at midnight was
seen on 9th September, and so extremely rapid is the approach of
darkness in all very high latitudes that on the 8th October lamps had to
be used throughout the twenty-four hours, except for an hour at midday.
Scientific observations were conducted regularly and very carefully at
Conger during the whole stay of the expedition. Some idea of the amount
of labour involved may be conveyed by the statement that the number of
observations recorded daily was as follows: Meteorological, 234; tidal,
28; magnetical, 264—aggregating 526 daily. On what were called
term-days the number of magnetical observations was increased to over
1200. Pendulum, time, and sound experiments were also made.
As regards food-supply, the expedition was fortunate in being able to
obtain sufficient musk-meat to enable each man to have 1 lb. daily
during two years at Conger. Condensed milk, butter, and oatmeal had been
taken in large quantities, and there was a liberal supply of cheese,
macaroni, and condensed eggs. They had also a large amount of fruits and
vegetables. Tomatoes were found to be the best vegetable, and apples and
peaches were considered the best fruits. One ounce of limejuice was
issued to each man daily.
Even after the disappearance of the sun, it was decided to continue
sledging work. On 23rd October, Lockwood and three men were sent to
Dépôt “B,” at Cape Beechy, to construct a large commodious snow-house
for the use of the sledge-parties. About 4 cwt. of coal from Watercourse
Mine was taken as fuel to be used in a small stove. At Dépôt “A,” at
Cape Murchison, about 3000 lb. of coal, also from the mine, was
accumulated.
On 3rd November, Lockwood with seven men left the station to attempt to
cross Robeson Channel from Cape Beechy. Next day Dr. Pavy, Lieutenant
Kislingbury, Sergeant Rice, and Eskimo Jens, with two dog-sledges, left
to add stores to the dépôt in Wrangel Bay. This latter party succeeded
in adding a small quantity of stores to the dépôt, but Lockwood was
unsuccessful in his attempt to cross Robeson Channel, owing to the open
condition of the straits.
The results of these winter journeys satisfied Greely that it was not
advisable to send sledge-parties to any considerable distance after the
sun has left or before its return. The sun was last seen at the station
on 14th October, and again reappeared on 28th February, 137 days later.
Very dark nights were, however, uncommon, and except on a few cloudy and
stormy days they were never prevented by darkness from taking their
regular exercise.
During October a wall of ice, 6 feet high, was constructed some 3 feet
from the house, and was rendered windproof by a coating of wet snow. The
space between the house and the wall was later filled in with loose, dry
snow, which formed an excellent protection.
As regards clothing, Greely came to the conclusion that for ordinary use
first-class woollen under-garments, with heavy woollen clothing, are all
that is essential in Arctic service.
In December a number of men gave indications of being mentally affected
by the continual darkness. The Eskimo were extremely depressed, and on
the 13th, Jens Edward disappeared without eating his breakfast, or even
taking his seal-skin mittens. A search was made, and he was discovered
near Cape Murchison, travelling rapidly northward. He returned to the
station without objection, and in time recovered his spirits.
The lowest temperature during the winter occurred on 3rd February 1882.
The minimum was −62.2°, the maximum −44.1° F. The protective influence
of a snow-hut was shown by the fact that after a mean temperature below
−50° for five consecutive days, the thermometer inside read −17°. Even
in these extremely low temperatures some hunting was done. On 16th
February the mercurial thermometers thawed out, after having been frozen
for sixteen days.
Preparations for spring sledging were actively commenced early in
February. The saddler, the tinman, the carpenters and others were kept
busy with sledges, boat, cooking-lamps, sleeping-bags, foot-gear, etc.
Of twenty-seven dogs purchased in Greenland only twelve were living at
the end of 1881. In addition to these twelve there were three private
dogs. This allowed two teams. As regards sledges, Greely decided to use
the Hudson Bay pattern for the supporting sledges on the North Greenland
coast. This form of sledge is suitable for the deep snow experienced by
Lieutenant Beaumont. Light strips of ash were fastened to the bottom on
each side to serve as runners, and it was found necessary to shod these
with steel. Greely afterwards recommended future explorers to use Hunt’s
pattern of the St. Michael’s sledge, with the addition of steel runners
so arranged as to be attached or detached at pleasure. The Hudson Bay
sledges, with lashings and coverings complete, weighed only 35 lb. The
Greenland sledge was adopted as the pattern for the dog-sledge. The
lashings of this sledge being of seal-skin permit rough handling without
the sledge being materially injured. Its only drawback is the liability
of the runners to split longitudinally through the row of holes bored to
receive the lashings. Greely strengthened the upstanders and runners of
his sledges by setting in plates of wrought iron. The pine slats
commonly in use in Greenland were replaced by the best American ash,
hickory, or oak. The weight of the sledge used was 105 lb.
The sledging ration in 1882 was 39 oz., but it was increased in 1883 to
about 42 oz., consisting of 22 oz. meat, 2 of butter, 4 of vegetables,
10 of bread, 2 of sugar, ½ oz. of milk, 1 oz. of tea and chocolate, salt
¼ and pepper 1/20 of an oz. The meat consisted of pemmican, bacon,
musk-meat, canned sausage, and corned beef. Limejuice pemmican was found
to be very unpalatable, and was only eaten under press of hunger.
Greely’s parties generally complained that chocolate taken in the field
made them thirsty. No rum was ever sent as a sledge-ration, but it was
furnished as medicine to be used under extraordinary occasions at the
discretion of the officer in charge. The alcohol allowance of fuel for a
party of three or four, at first 5 oz., was increased to 6 oz., as being
the smallest amount on which the food could be cooked. As the result of
his experience, Greely recommended that the vegetable-ration should be 3
oz. preserved potatoes, and that the other ounce should be replaced by
half an ounce each of milk and of extract of beef. Of the meat, only
half should be of pemmican, the balance to be divided between bacon and
fresh meat; the latter to be sliced fine and frozen. In case fresh meat
cannot be obtained, Greely recommended that of the 11 oz. meat, 4 oz.
should consist of bacon and the balance of sausage and canned fresh
meat. The limejuice was frozen into small squares, each of which
represented a ration. It thaws at a temperature of 14° F.
Greely recommends alcohol of great strength for fuel in the field, and
that it should be carried in tightly sealed vessels of about 2 gallons.
This enables caches to be frequently made for the return journey. The
lamp and all the cooking vessels were fireproof, made as far as
practicable of single pieces of heavy tin without solder. A lamp with
five wicks was used, and at a temperature of −20° melted enough snow in
sixteen minutes to produce 2½ quarts of water, and in ten minutes more,
raised it to the boiling-point. At the same time, in an open vessel,
there was melted 1½ quart of water. The amount of alcohol expended was 4
oz.
On 19th February 1882, Lieutenant Lockwood with two men and a dog-sledge
left the station to visit Dépôt “B,” near Cape Beechy, and to examine
the ice in Robeson Channel with a view of selecting the best route to be
followed in a later trip to Thank-God Harbour. The party returned on the
22nd, having found the ice favourable.
On the 1st March, Lockwood with three men set out for Thank-God Harbour.
Two other men with a second dog-team were to support him as far as
possible. The distance of 28 miles to Dépôt “B” was travelled in five
hours and twenty minutes. The night was spent in the snow-house there,
and next day the whole party set out across Robeson Channel. When the
bad ice near the shore had been crossed, the supporting sledge-party
returned. Lockwood reached the Greenland coast the same day as he left
Cape Beechy. On the 3rd March he travelled south along the coast, and
arrived at the observatory above Thank-God Harbour, occupied by Bessels
and Bryan in 1871−72. The sides and one end of this building were still
standing. Six 45 lb. cans of pemmican, 35 lb. of farina, a half-barrel
of limejuice, a barrel of yellow corn-meal, and 10 barrels of hard bread
were found in the building, in fairly good condition. There were also
hatchets, saws, shovels, lead, shot, gunpowder, and cartridges for rifle
and pistol.
On the 5th March, Lockwood proceeded to Cape Sumner over the route
followed by Captain Hall in 1870. During the whole of this day the
temperature remained below −50°, and the party were compelled to
continually keep the warm hand to the face in order to prevent it from
freezing. At night a deep snow-drift was found in a small ravine, and a
hole was dug in this and a house formed by using the tent and poles for
a roof. Next day Newman Bay was reached in a snowstorm, and shelter had
to be taken in a house made in a snow-bank, where they had to remain
until the morning of the 9th. Here they had an experience they were not
likely to forget. Lockwood and Jewell had used up or had lost their
stock of matches. Brainard had some, but they seemed damp and would not
light. They were 60 miles from the station, and there was a temperature
of freezing mercury outside. Without fire they could not obtain water,
and without water they could not live long. The matches were tried again
and again, but only gave a flicker and went out. At last Jewell produced
a love-letter which had been carefully kept in an inside garment, and
holding a piece to the next match it caught the flame, and with this the
alcohol-lamp was at once lighted. The cause of the matches not lighting
eventually proved to be the vitiated, damp atmosphere of the hut.
Eight hours’ travelling on the 9th brought the party to Boat Camp, where
the canvas and whale-boats were found in very much the same condition
described by the English. From this camp, Cape Sumner was readied in an
hour and a half, and the tent pitched. Here Lockwood decided to leave
the tent, sleeping-bag, and some other articles of use for further
exploration, and to return to Conger. The party started on the 10th in a
temperature of −41°, and crossed Robeson Channel to Dépôt “B” in 12½
hours.
On 5th March, Dr. Pavy, with two men and a dog-sledge, was sent to
convey a sledge-load of provisions to as northerly a point on the
Greenland coast as could be reached in one day’s march from Cape Beechy.
They reached the Greenland coast, and cached the supplies at a point
called the “Gap.” They returned to Conger on the 9th.
On the 13th March, Sergeant Brainard, with seven men, was ordered to
take a small boat with such additional supplies as could be hauled, to
the dépôt near Cape Sumner. The party left the snow-house near Cape
Beechy on 15th March, in a temperature of −50.5°. The Greenland coast
was reached on the 17th, after very severe labour. On the way one man
had to be sent back to Dépôt “B.” Brainard reported that he placed the
boat beside a huge rock, and fastened her down securely with boxes,
rocks, etc., first placing hard bread, medical knapsack, etc., under
her, to prevent them from being blown away. The channel was then
recrossed, and Dépôt “B” reached on the 19th, and Conger on the 20th
March.
On 19th March, Dr. Pavy, Sergeant Rice, and Eskimo Jens, with a
dog-team, were sent north in an attempt to reach land to the northward
of Cape Joseph Henry. Greely states that Pavy was confident that land
would eventually be discovered in that direction. Sergeant Jewell and
Eskimo Christiansen were detached as a supporting party as far as
Lincoln Bay. Dr. Pavy on reaching the dépôt previously formed by him
near Mount Parry found that a bear had eaten 70 lb. of the pemmican.
At Cape Union the party were storm-stayed for twenty-two hours. Two
trips had to be made back to Lincoln Bay to bring north supplies. On the
31st March they left Lincoln Bay with the last load, but when near Cape
Union the right runner of the sledge broke longitudinally through the
lashing-holes. Rice offered to return to Conger for a new runner, and
started at once with Eskimo Jens. They made the journey to Dépôt “B” in
one march, but the Eskimo was completely exhausted.
The sledge having been repaired, the party finally left Lincoln Bay on
the 6th April, and reached the _Alert’s_ winter quarters on the 11th.
Beneath the large stone that covers the grave of Petersen they found
that a hare had taken up its residence. The signal flag-staff, with
attached halliards, at Cape Sheridan, was still standing in as firm a
condition as when erected in 1875.
Instead of crossing the Feilden Peninsula, Dr. Pavy decided, on account
of the bare ground in some places, to follow the coast to Cape Joseph
Henry. This decision, though it seemed wise at the time, probably proved
fatal to the success of the journey. During the 18th and 19th April a
severe storm confined them to their tent. During the 20th and 21st they
succeeded in transporting their stores to a point on the polar pack
about 4 miles north of Cape Joseph Henry. On the 21st another storm was
experienced, which continued as a severe gale during the night. On
advancing north on the 23rd, Jens suddenly announced the presence of
water. This was found to be an open channel a mile wide, which had
probably been caused by the gale. The ice on which the party was seemed
to be in motion, and Dr. Pavy therefore decided to return to Cape Joseph
Henry. On arriving opposite the cape, open water of three-quarters of a
mile in extent was found between the ice and the land. Ultimately the
ice closed in against the shore and allowed the party to retreat in
haste, abandoning their tent, some provisions, and part of the
scientific instruments. Dr. Pavy, under the impression that Robeson
Channel was open, decided to return in haste to Conger, in case his
retreat might be cut off. The station was reached on the 2nd of May.
On the 26th April, Greely with three men started for the interior of
Grinnell Land. They entered Conybeare Bay, and discovered that it was a
large fiord, which was named “Chandler Fiord.” On reaching the head of
this they passed along the bed of a river, and at certain places could
hear the water running under the ice. Ultimately they came to a point
where the river was open, and they were forced to take to the hillside.
A short distance farther a surprise awaited them in the form of an
immense ice-bound lake, which was named “Lake Hazen.” The station at
Conger was again reached on 7th May.
The most important sledge-journey undertaken by the expedition began on
the 3rd of April, under the command of Lieutenant Lockwood. Its object
was the exploration of the North Greenland coast. The advance sledge was
to be hauled by dogs, with Eskimo Christiansen as driver, and Lockwood
was to select one man from the supporting party before their return.
This latter party consisted of twelve men, with four sledges of the
Hudson Bay pattern.
The average amount of extra clothing was 10 lb. per man. The clothing
worn was generally double suits of underclothing, three pairs of socks,
with outer ordinary wool clothing, over which a light duck suit was
worn, to keep the snow from adhering to the wool. A few only wore outer
clothing of skin. The foot-gear consisted of moccasins, and Greenland,
Labrador, and canvas boots.
The party left Dépôt “B” to cross Robeson Channel on the evening of 5th
April. The load was equal to 130 lb. to each man, and 100 lb. to each of
the dogs. Next day one man suffering from rheumatism was ordered to
return to the station; and later another man who had frozen one of his
toes was taken back to Cape Beechy by Lockwood. On the 7th the party
experienced a violent gale, which confined them to their sleeping-bags
forty-five hours.
On reaching Polaris Boat Camp, one of the Hudson Bay sledges had been so
injured by the rough ice that it was practically useless. At this camp
the wind again became very violent, blew down the tent, and one gust
lifted the dog-sledge, with its load of 200 lb., bodily from the ground.
The sledge struck one man, knocking him several yards and injuring him
severely. Two other men, owing to illness, had to be sent back from this
camp.
The party were employed until the 16th April in accumulating at Boat
Camp the stores from the other dépôts, and while this was being done
Lockwood returned to Conger for an extra set of runners, as he was
afraid that the runners of the dog-sledge might break down.
The party started from Boat Camp with 300 rations on 16th April. The
eight dogs hauled about 800 lb., and each man hauled about 217 lb. on
the second sledge. On the third and fourth sledges the men dragged about
150 lb. each. The constant weights of the dog-sledge were 243 lb., and
of the remaining sledges 375 lb.
During the first six days they had to travel over land, and after
tremendous exertions the sea-coast was again reached on 22nd April. The
party arrived at Cape Bryant on 27th April. On this journey one of
Beaumont’s caches was discovered, and the rations found were taken on to
Cape Bryant.
At this point the supporting party were sent back, and Lockwood,
Brainard, and Christiansen, with rations for twenty-five days, set out
on 29th April towards their farthest north. The weight carried amounted
to about 783 lb., and consisted of rations 227 lb., dog-pemmican 300
lb., equipments 176 lb., and dog-sledge 80 lb.
A course across the fiord towards Cape May was taken, and the weather
was delightful. Sixteen miles were covered in eight hours. Next day the
snow was soft and deep, like that experienced by Beaumont, and it was
found necessary to advance with half-load and then return for the other.
Lockwood now gave up the idea of visiting Cape May, and directed his
course towards Cape Britannia. After this hard work Lockwood and
Brainard could not sleep well, but the Eskimo invariably snored two
minutes after composing himself to rest. On the 2nd May they came to a
crack in the ice, and had to follow it several hundred yards before they
could cross it. Thinking this would be a good chance to get a deep-sea
sounding, Lockwood ran out all the line he had, but did not reach
bottom. He then attached coils of seal-thongs, then some rope, and
finally the dog-whip, but still did not reach bottom at 820 feet. After
hesitating whether he would also use the dog-traces, they began to pull
up the line, and had drawn out the whip, when the rope broke, and
everything below was lost. All further attempts at sounding were thus
prevented.
Cape Britannia was reached on 4th May. This was the _Ultima Thule_ of
Beaumont’s hopes, and quite as far as Greely expected Lockwood to reach.
A cairn was built, and in it was deposited a record, five days’ rations,
three days’ dog-food, the extra sledge-runner, shelter-tent, little
lamp, and the snow-shoes. Lockwood and Brainard ascended to the top of
the cape, 1950 feet high, where a cairn was built and a record
deposited. The latitude was found to be 82° 44′.
Rounding Cape Frederick next day, they camped opposite Nordenskjöld
Inlet. A tidal-crack was here again met with. On the 6th May, Mascart
Inlet was reached, after a ten hours’ march which exhausted both men and
dogs. Numerous signs of animal-life were seen here; a hare was captured,
and traces of foxes, lemmings, bears, and musk-oxen were observed.
On the 7th May, Low Point was reached. The latitude of this place is the
same as Cape Columbia, the most northern point of Grinnell Land. On the
10th May, De Long Fiord was crossed, and cairns constructed on the
northern and southern points. The party camped on Mary Murray Island, in
latitude 83° 19′, and were here delayed 63½ hours by a violent gale. A
lemming was captured by the dogs at this camp.
Lockwood Island was reached on the 13th of May, and England’s record was
at last broken. The honours of the farthest north had been held by
England for three centuries. The highest latitude reached by Lockwood
was 83° 24′, against Markham’s 83° 20′ 26″.
From the summit of the island, which was ascended by Lockwood and
Brainard, could be seen a rocky headland, Cape Kane, to the north, and
still some distance beyond, another, Cape Washington. On Lockwood Island
numerous traces of foxes, lemmings, hares, and ptarmigan were seen. On
the summit, Lockwood left a record in a small tin box under a few small
stones, as no large ones could be found.
The return journey was commenced on the evening of the 16th May, and
Cape Bryant was reached in nine marches. After leaving Cape Britannia,
where they again obtained the snow-shoes, deep snow was met, and
Lockwood and Brainard used the shoes for the first time, and found
immense relief. Both bitterly regretted they had not used them going
north.
From Cape Bryant to Polaris Boat Camp was passed over in six marches.
Here three of the supporting party awaited their return. From this camp
the whole party crossed Robeson Channel to Cape Beechy in fourteen hours
in face of a violent snowstorm. Conger was reached on 1st June, after an
absence of sixty days.
The mean temperature during the outward part of this journey was below
zero. The distance of 276 miles entailed travel of 470 miles. Lockwood
personally during the sixty days covered 1070 miles in forty-six
marches. His discoveries extended 95 miles along the North Greenland
coast beyond the farthest point seen by Beaumont.
The winter at Conger had been of great severity, the mean temperature
for the 131 days without the sun being −32.3°.
On 19th May 1882, Greely visited the coal-mine. He found the seam 200
yards long and extending 8 feet above the level of the creek. An immense
quantity of coal could be easily mined.
On 24th June, Greely with four men left for the interior of Grinnell
Land, through Black Rock Vale. A two-wheeled wagon was used to carry the
provisions, etc. This valley was entirely barren of snow, and in most
places was covered with a comparatively luxuriant vegetation. Grasses or
sedges 10 or 12 inches in height were frequently noticed on the banks of
a river. The temperature during the journey remained extremely high. On
one occasion the thermometer reached 74° F. in the shade, and as many as
fifty butterflies were seen in one day!
Beyond this valley, a system of small lakes, draining from one into
another, was found to finally discharge into Lake Hazen. Numerous birds
and herds of musk-oxen were met with. Traces of Eskimo were discovered
in many places both in the form of summer encampments and permanent
winter huts. These must have been inhabited within a comparatively
recent period. From the various relics found, Greely formed the opinion
that these Eskimo had dogs, sledges, arrows, and skinning-knives, and
that they fed on musk-oxen, seals, hares, and occasionally fish.
After travelling over 100 miles from Conger, the wagon broke down
completely, and had to be abandoned. The remainder of the journey was
made with knapsacks. Skirting the south shore of Lake Hazen until its
termination was reached, they ascended a river which entered the lake.
One of the men became exhausted carrying a heavy load, and had to be
sent back. Near the source of the river Greely ascended a mountain with
great difficulty. The height was ascertained to be 4500 feet above
sea−level, and Greely believed it to be the highest mountain in Grinnell
Land. He named it “Mount Arthur.” It is the crest of the land, and the
farther side drains to the western sea.
They now started on their return journey, and reached Conger on 10th
July. The journey entailed an aggregate of 352 miles’ travel in nineteen
marches—an average of 17½ miles, which was a remarkably good
performance over rough country.
A ship was anxiously expected in either July or August, but these months
passed without it making an appearance.
The first serious breach of discipline took place on 28th August. The
engineer having stolen some of the fuel-alcohol, was found drunk. About
the beginning of October a bear visited Conger on several occasions, and
Greely thought it necessary to require the men to obtain authority for
any extended absence from the station. In connection with this order,
Sergeant Lynn was reduced to the ranks for having made a “disrespectful
remark.”
From 14th to 19th November there was a great magnetic storm, which was
general throughout the world. During this time the auroral displays were
magnificent, and on the 17th the magnetic needle ranged in variation
considerably over 19°.
The second winter passed, and left the party in much better health and
spirits than had been anticipated. There had been an abundance of fresh
meat, and no scurvy made its appearance.
The spring work of 1883 was to be a renewal of explorations in North
Greenland. Lockwood left Conger for his preliminary journey on 10th
March, with five men and dog-teams. During an absence of seven days he
accumulated about 1300 lb. of field-supplies near Cape Sumner.
He started on his final journey northwards on 27th March. He was
instructed to return to Polaris Boat Camp not later than 31st May. The
party left thoroughly equipped, and had the former year’s experience in
their favour. The journey to Black Horn Cliffs from Conger was made in
six days, against twenty-two days in 1882. Here, however, open water was
met, and the party had to return. They reached Conger on the 12th of
April.
In discussing this journey, Greely expresses his belief in an open Polar
Sea which could only be entered by a ship in extremely favourable years
by the Spitzbergen route. The huge floebergs of the north are given off
by glacial lands in the vicinity of the North Pole, according to
Greely’s view. The discoveries of Nansen prove the non-existence of an
open Polar Sea, and Peary claims to have discovered that the source of
the floebergs is in the glaciers of the extreme north of Greenland.
On the 25th of April, Lockwood with Brainard and Christiansen left
Conger to attempt to cross Grinnell Land to the western ocean. They had
a team of the best ten dogs, and provisions to last thirty-one days. A
supporting sledge was to accompany them for two marches. Lockwood’s
fourth camp was situated about 67 miles from Conger. Lieutenant Archer
in 1876, with an eight-man sledge, took fourteen days to do the same
distance. This illustrates the great difference between sledging with
dogs and with men.
From Archer Fiord, Lockwood passed along the Ella Valley to the base of
a glacier 150 feet above the sea. The glacier stretched from side to
side of the valley, and was found impassable. Lockwood next decided to
try the route _via_ Beatrix Bay. From the head of this bay they passed
along a valley to its termination, and then had to turn off to the north
up a steep rocky ravine. Here the large sledge had to be left, and a
small one brought specially for land-travelling was afterwards used.
From this camp they started for Musk-ox Valley on 8th May. The following
day’s march carried them to the apparent end of the valley, and they
then entered a cañon which seemed to end in a glacier 8 or 10 ten miles
distant; but as no other route seemed possible it was followed. This
cañon took them into a broad valley with a lake in its centre. The wall
of a glacier apparently rose all along the south side of the valley, and
the country behind seemed one continuous glacial surface. Travelling in
a south-west direction, they found the ice-capped land presented to
their view a vertical face of solid ice from 125 feet to 200 feet in
height. This wall of ice ran across the country in such a manner that
Lockwood named it “The Chinese Wall Glacier,” but later it was
designated Mer de Glace Agassiz. The next march brought them to the
watershed of Grinnell Land. They now descended a narrow gorge bounded on
either side by towering mountains, and finally reached a narrow valley
1000 feet lower down. Passing along this valley, and still rapidly
descending, they reached the head of a fiord where the water was salt.
This was named “Greely Fiord.” Proceeding about 26 miles down the fiord,
they reached their farthest on 13th May, and camped in a heavy
snowstorm. By fasting nineteen hours, they were enabled to remain here
until the storm abated.
The return journey had to be made on short rations. This party travelled
437 miles during their month’s absence.
The work of exploration was now practically completed, and preparations
for the contingency of a retreat southward began to receive serious
attention. Greely had already established a large dépôt of provisions at
Cape Baird, on the south side of Archer Fiord, and 12 miles from Conger.
This work was begun as early as the 1st February. Dr. Pavy protested
against the work as entailing unnecessary exposure, and some warm words
evidently passed between the doctor and Greely. The latter makes the
charge that this was the first of a series by which Dr. Pavy opposed all
the work initiated during 1883. The doctor’s objection was no doubt to
the work being done during the coldest month of the year. Greely takes
great credit for establishing this dépôt 12 miles from the station, but
it is only just to the doctor to state that Lockwood in his diary
mentions the fact that as early as March 1883 Dr. Pavy and two others of
the party were in favour of abandoning all further explorations, and
applying their efforts to depositing provisions down the straits to
secure their safe retreat in boats in August and September. No mention
of this fact is made by Greely. He states that the correspondence
between them formed part of his official report, but has no place in his
book.
Lockwood also states that, on his return from his North Greenland
journey of 1883, Lieutenant Kislingbury’s only thought seemed to be that
a sledge-party should be sent down to Littleton Island to have the ship
leave her supplies at Cape Sabine instead of at the island, and that in
expressing this view Kislingbury merely reflected the latest opinion of
the doctor.
The reader may be left to judge what effect it would have had on the
ultimate fate of the party had these ideas been carried out.
In order further to insure a safe retreat, Greely decided to bring from
Thank-God Harbour the English ice-boat left there by Beaumont in 1876.
This boat was brought across the channel by twelve men, who made the
trip of 90 miles in six days in a mean temperature of −21°.
On 1st June, Greely being dissatisfied with the manner in which Dr. Pavy
had kept the specimens of natural history and the notes concerning them,
transferred the work to Lockwood. On the 19th July the bitter feeling
between Greely and Dr. Pavy was aggravated by the latter declining to
renew his contract, which expired on the 20th July, and refusing to give
up his diary. As Dr. Pavy insisted that he was out of service and
refused to obey orders, Greely thought it necessary to place him under
arrest, with permission to take such exercise as was necessary within a
mile of the station.
All preparations for the retreat having been completed by 29th July, an
order was issued announcing that Conger would be deserted on 8th August
if no vessel should arrive. All private property was to be left behind,
except 8 lb. of baggage for each man and 16 lb. for each officer.
The station was abandoned on 9th August, the weather conditions on the
8th not being favourable. The dogs were left behind, and several barrels
of seal-blubber, pork, beef, and bread were opened, so that they might
maintain life for several months in case the party might be compelled to
return to Conger. Three tons of coal remained, and a sufficient quantity
of provisions to have supplied scant army rations for one year, with the
exception of flour, sugar, vegetables, milk, and butter. The entire
collection of natural history specimens and the original records of the
expedition were left at Conger.
Cape Baird was reached on 10th August. Here the caches were taken up,
and then the launch, with three boats in tow, was steered down Kennedy
Channel. The whole party of twenty-five were then in good health, and
little could they dream of the horrors they were to undergo.
On the 12th August, Sergeant Cross, the engineer, was found to be under
the influence of liquor. He had allowed the launch to ground on the
falling tide. On this date Carl Ritter Bay was reached, and the cache
made by Greely on his way north was taken up. On the 13th their progress
was arrested by an enormous floeberg, 60 feet in height above the water,
which had grounded 1 mile from the shore, and between it and the shore
was an unbroken floe. A later examination of the floeberg discovered
that it had split and formed a narrow cleft about 12 feet wide and over
100 yards long. Into this narrow passage, with walls of ice about 60
feet high on either side, the boats were steered, and the dangerous run
was made without accident.
On the 15th August, Cross was again intoxicated, and Greely found it
necessary to put Private Frederick permanently in charge of the engine.
On the 21st August the boats were caught between the moving pack and an
ice-foot 10 feet high, and rather severely nipped. The English cache at
Cape Collinson, consisting of 240 rations of meat, salt, pepper,
onion-powder and fuel, and 120 rations of bread, was taken up on 22nd
August. Cape Hawks was reached on 26th August. Here it was found that
the record left on the northward journey had been untouched. This proved
that no vessel had reached this point either in 1882 or 1883, and Greely
began to see that the position of his party was critical. He calculated
that on this date he had still sixty days’ provisions, except sugar. The
English dépôt left here was also found. The bread was very mouldy, but
all that was eatable was taken, and the barrels were broken up for
steaming purposes.
Cape Hawks was left on the afternoon of 26th August, and on the same day
they became beset. The temperature was now low, and young ice formed
rapidly. The Eskimo killed a seal on 1st September, and another on the
2nd.
On 3rd September, Greely took the wise course of calling together the
officers and two of the sergeants and pointing out to them the necessity
of hearty and united action. He expressed a desire for the frankest
opinion of each one as to what would be the wisest measures to take.
Various opinions were expressed, but Greely decided to make no immediate
movement.
Meanwhile they slowly drifted southwards. A tepee after the Indian style
was made of the sails, and could accommodate eighteen men. The ice-boat
with a canvas shelter could hold nine. On 6th September they were only 3
miles from Bache Island, and about 17 from Cape Sabine. On the 10th
September the launch was abandoned, and a start was made for the land
with two boats dragged on sledges. On the 12th one of the two boats had
to be left, as it was feared that it would break down the sledge. On
this date the last of the sugar was used. A high south-west wind sprang
up on the 14th, and in three hours drove the party farther north than
they had travelled south in three days. This gave rise to much
disappointment, and Greely’s troubles were aggravated by the criticisms
of Dr. Pavy. On the 15th the latitude was found to be 1 mile farther
north than where the launch was abandoned. On the 16th they were
directly north of Littleton Island, at a distance of 30 miles from Cairn
Point, Greenland, and 19 miles from Cape Sabine. Greely now held the
view that the next start should be for the Greenland coast, and although
he received little support from the officers, he was prepared to avail
himself of any chance of moving in that direction. Unfortunately, next
day it was found that they had drifted 3 miles to the west, and this
changed Greely’s intention of attempting to reach the Greenland coast.
On the 18th land seemed comparatively near, but on the 19th a south-west
gale sprang up, and they were drifted far to the east again. Greely now
held a conference with the officers and two of the sergeants, and
expressed the opinion that everything but 2000 lb. selected baggage
should be abandoned, and with twenty days’ rations the party should
start across the pack for the Greenland shore, about 23 miles distant.
The sergeants were inclined to favour Greely’s plan, but the others
recommended delay. Greely decided to wait till next day, but fog
prevented any move being made. The drift later set again to the west,
and on the 25th they were within 3 miles of Brevoort Island. On the 26th
a gale caused the floe, on which the party were, to break up, and it was
with great difficulty that they escaped destruction. Land to the south
of Cape Sabine was at last reached on 29th September. The retreat from
Conger involved over 400 miles’ travel by boats, and fully 100 with
sledge and boat. The condition of the party during the drift had been
wretched in the extreme. In spite of all difficulties, however, the
party reached land in fairly good health and with undiminished numbers.
On the 1st October, Rice and Jens started for Cape Sabine, taking with
them a record to deposit in the cache. They returned on the 9th October,
and brought momentous news. Three caches were found at the cape, and in
one of them a record brought back by Rice explained that the relief
steamer had been wrecked and sunk on the 23rd July 1883; that a dépôt of
some of the provisions had been made at Cape Sabine, and that a second
steamer was on her way to Littleton Island. Lieutenant Garlington, who
wrote this record, also stated that he was leaving for the eastern
shore, and that everything within the power of man would be done to
rescue Greely’s party.
On the strength of this record, Greely decided to proceed to Cape Sabine
and await the promised help. The whale-boat abandoned on the ice was
found by Rice at Payer Harbour safe and whole. On the 11th October, Rice
started for Cape Isabella to ascertain whether the second relief ship
had left supplies there. Cross, on this day, again managed to get under
the influence of liquor. Next day the whole party left their temporary
shelter to proceed to Cape Sabine, so as to avoid having to bring the
supplies from that point. The cache left by the wrecked party was
reached on the 15th, and Greely decided to take up quarters near it. On
the cache being examined, it was found that instead of 500 rations (as
mentioned in Garlington’s record) there were scarcely 100. In this
record the statement was also made that a boat had been left at Cape
Isabella. On the 15th, Rice returned and stated that no boat could be
found, and that only 144 lb. English meat was cached there. On the 17th
the temperature was 6° below zero, and the party had practically no
shelter. It was decided to build a stone house 25 feet by 18. Owing to
the scarcity of rocks, the walls were made only 3 feet high, and a boat
was placed on the top to form a roof. When sitting in their bags the
heads of the tall men touched the roof. Under the boat was the only
place where a man could get on his knees and hold his head erect. In
this miserable dwelling the winter had to be passed on starvation
rations. Holes were cut in the sides of the boat, in which oars were
inserted, which reaching to the side walls and fastened by ropes,
supported the canvas and overlying blocks of snow which formed part of
the roof. The house was surrounded with snow, and at one end a
snow-house was built for the stores. Sand was put on the floor over the
uneven rocks.
The provisions from the various caches were slowly brought to the house
under great difficulties. The records of the expedition and the pendulum
were cached on Stalknecht Island in a prominent position, so that no one
visiting Payer Harbour could miss seeing it. A record similar to the one
placed on Brevoort Island was put in the sextant-box and left in the
cache.
On 29th October the party decided that one of two mattresses should be
set aside for Greely, who directed that the other should be disposed of
by lot. Greely also generously turned over his own mattress to Sergeant
Gardiner, who was ill. A considerable part of the dog-biscuits was found
mouldy, but although Greely gave orders that the bad ones should be
thrown away, the whole were afterwards eaten by the famished men.
On 1st November the daily ration was cut down to about 6 oz. bread, 4
oz. meat, and 4 oz. vegetables, etc.; a total of about 14 oz. On this
ration it was calculated that the party could be provided for until 1st
March 1884, at which date there would be ten days’ rations of 20 oz.
each in which to cross Smith Sound by sledge.
On 2nd November, Rice, Frederick, Elison, and Lynn left for Cape
Isabella to obtain the English meat cached there. The Arctic night had
commenced a week before this date, and the moon had chiefly to be
depended on for light. Cape Isabella was reached on the 7th November.
The first march of fourteen hours on the return journey was a very
exhausting one, and had to be done on a cup of tea and no food. During
this march Elison froze both his hands and feet. Frederick and Rice lay
on either side of Elison, and tried in many ways to impart heat to his
frosted limbs. Next day Frederick had to support and half carry Elison.
On the 9th, in order to save Elison, it became necessary to abandon the
meat. On the 10th, Rice started for the camp at Cape Sabine to obtain
assistance. He had to travel 25 miles almost in total darkness, and he
accomplished the distance in sixteen hours.
During this time, and until assistance arrived, Frederick and Lynn tried
to keep Elison warm, but in a few hours the sleeping-bag became frozen
so hard that they could not turn over, and had to lie in one position
eighteen hours.
Elison’s feet and hands were frozen solid, and his face was little
better, yet he arrived at Cape Sabine alive, although in a very critical
condition. The rescue party, enfeebled through want of food, made a
journey of nearly 40 miles in forty-four hours, over very rough and
heavy ice, exposed to temperatures ranging from 19° to 34° below zero,
and almost in darkness. Sad to relate, this party of rescuers and
rescued, with the exception of two, all afterwards perished.
On the 4th November it was found that some one had been tampering with
the stores. On the 9th, Lockwood discovered an opened but full can of
milk hidden away. About the middle of November, Greely began to give
lectures, so as to interest the men and kill time. On 4th December,
Greely states that he heard Dr. Pavy taking bread from Elison’s
bread-can, but did not charge him with it. A considerable number of
foxes were killed during December, and allowed a slightly increased
ration. For Christmas an attempt had been made to save some provisions,
although the whole party were starving. Breakfast on that day consisted
of a thin pea-soup, with seal-blubber and a small quantity of preserved
potatoes. The dinner was a more elaborate affair, and included
seal-stew, potatoes, bread, pickled onions, and a kind of rice pudding.
At night everybody was required to sing a song or tell a story, and the
proceedings continued till midnight. The only extra rations for New
Year’s Day were cloudberries and a quarter of a lemon and gill of rum to
each man.
On the 2nd January 1884, Elison’s right foot separated from the ankle
when the doctor severed a fragment of skin. The patient was quite
unconscious of the fact. Later he lost the other foot and both hands in
the same manner, and for long afterwards he still believed he possessed
them.
On the 4th January it was found that a hole had been cut through the
canvas roof of the storehouse and a piece of bacon fished out. On the
7th some one made a hole with an axe in one of the barrels of bread and
stole several pounds.
Up till the 12th January water had been obtained from a lake near the
house, but after that date ice had to be melted. This meant a heavy
drain on their fuel, and the quantity of tea had to be reduced one-half.
On the 16th January, Lockwood was so weak that he could not rise without
assistance. Cross was unable to walk, and several others of the party
were becoming very weak.
Cross died on the 18th January; his habits had no doubt undermined his
constitution, and he was therefore the first to succumb. He was buried
15 inches deep on the summit of a hill near the camp. Next day was his
birthday, and it was found that he had saved up a considerable quantity
of bread and butter to celebrate it.
On the 19th January it was found that the bread was overrunning the
estimate, and the ration was increased a half-ounce. This partly
dispelled the gloom caused by the first funeral. On the 21st January it
was discovered that at some time twelve cans of milk had been stolen. On
the 26th, Rice and Jens received an extra allowance of food, so as to
strengthen them for a proposed trip to Littleton Island. At this time
old leather boots were being burned to augment the fuel. The general
ration was again slightly increased on the 28th. A still further
increase was made on 1st February. On the 2nd, Rice and Jens started for
Littleton Island, accompanied by Brainard and Christiansen for a short
distance. They carried six days’ rations. They returned on the 6th
February, having found open water. Rice believed that he reached within
10 miles of Littleton Island. The trip exhausted Jens very much.
On 27th February the last of the onions, dog-biscuits, and coffee was
reached. On 2nd March the last general issue of lemons took place, and
the last can of milk was opened for Elison. On 3rd March, Frederick was
promoted by Greely to be sergeant in place of Cross, who had died. This
and similar promotions were afterwards disapproved of on the ground that
there was “no precedent for them”! Red tape in its most vivid colours
can evidently flourish in the land of “liberty.”
On 11th March, Long and Christiansen were sent to Alexandra Harbour in
search of game. They returned on the 13th very much exhausted. They saw
no game and no tracks, except of a single fox. On the 14th, Brainard
shot three ptarmigans, the first game obtained since early in February.
Three other were shot on the 15th, and four dovekies on the 16th. On the
17th the rations had to be reduced to 7 oz. of bread and 4 oz. of meat.
On the 21st a net was made in which to catch shrimps, and next day about
a pint was obtained. By this date the idea of crossing Smith Sound had
been given up, as the strength of the party was insufficient for the
task. On the 24th of March the entire party were in great danger of
perishing from the fumes of the alcohol-lamp used in cooking. The
chimney had been closed with rags, as usual, so that as much heat as
possible might be retained in the hut at night, and the cooks had
forgotten to remove the rags before beginning cooking. Several of the
men were rendered unconscious, but soon recovered in the air outside the
hut. It was remarked afterwards by all the men who got out of the hut,
that every one attempted to assist his neighbour except Henry, who held
himself aloof, evidently caring for no one but himself. Greely and
several of the men suffered severely from frost-bites as the result of
the exposure. After order was restored, and the breakfast cooked, it was
found that a piece of bacon had been stolen. Jens had seen Henry take
the bacon and conceal it within his shirt. Just before dinner, Henry
complained of being sick, and soon after he vomited. Frederick, on
examination, found that the vomited matter contained a considerable
quantity of undigested bacon. A general investigation of Henry’s conduct
was made on the 25th, which clearly established his guilt, not only of
the bacon, but that he took a double allowance of rum after the theft.
Greely relieved Henry from duty, and he was prohibited from leaving his
sleeping-bag except under the supervision of one of his comrades. Two
days later, 10 oz. chocolate reserved for Elison was stolen, and Henry
was suspected.
For the first time in five months a ray of sunlight entered the wretched
hut on 25th March. On the 27th, Long was fortunate in obtaining
thirty-three dovekies. On the 28th, Rice got 27 lb. of shrimps, Long
secured fourteen more dovekies, and Christiansen shot a ptarmigan. This
success caused great rejoicing among the starving men.
On the 29th March, Elison wished the doctor to do something for his
itching feet, unconscious that they had been gone since early in
January. On the 3rd April all that remained of provisions consisted of 5
lb. of meat, 3 lb. of bread, and about 2 lb. of stearine to each man.
From 20 to 30 lb. of shrimps were, however, being obtained daily.
The second death took place on 5th April. Christiansen, one of the
Eskimo, had been thoroughly used up in the hunting expedition with Long,
and never quite recovered. Extra food was given to him during the week
previous to his death, in the hope of saving him. Lockwood had a great
affection for him, and had much to say in his praise.
Deaths now followed one another quickly. Lynn became unconscious at 1
p.m. on 6th April, and died at 7 p.m. When dying he asked for water, but
there was none to give him. The Isabella trip had weakened him both
physically and mentally.
On the 6th April, Rice and Private Frederick started to attempt the
recovery of the English beef which had to be abandoned to save Elison.
They had wished to make the attempt earlier in the year, but Greely
would not consent. Now, when provisions were almost gone, he agreed.
Before leaving, Rice slept in the same bag containing his dead comrade
Lynn, all unconscious of the fact that, in two days more, he too would
pass away. The temperature when they started was 8° below zero. Next day
they were confined to their bag twenty-two hours by a violent storm.
They reached the place where the meat had been abandoned, but could not
find it. Soon afterwards Rice showed signs of weakness. Frederick gave
him some spirits of ammonia in rum, until he made some tea. Then, giving
him some warm food and drink, he urged him to walk, in order to avoid
freezing. His condition had now, however, become so alarming that he
could not stand up, and his mind continually reverted to home,
relations, and friends. Frederick stripped himself of his jumper, in
which to wrap Rice’s feet. In his shirt-sleeves, sitting on the sledge,
in a driving storm of wind and snow, he held his dying comrade in his
arms for several hours, until he passed away. The feelings of Frederick
may be imagined; his sleeping-bag had been left some miles away, and to
reach it he must struggle against a cutting blast filled with drifting
snow. Recovering strength by sleep and a little food, he returned 6
miles to cover his comrade with snow and ice. In returning to the camp
at Cape Sabine, he dragged his sledge as far as his feebleness would
permit, then took a little food, and getting into his bag, drank a
spoonful of ammonia and rum, which enabled him to sleep. As soon as he
awoke, he travelled on as before. In this way he hauled everything back
to the camp, even including Rice’s rations. It may truly be said that
Rice laid down his life for his comrades. On several other occasions he
had ventured it, especially on his extraordinary trips to Isabella, and
towards Littleton Island. Rice’s death deeply affected the party.
On the same day that this tragedy was being enacted on the ice, Lockwood
breathed his last in the hut at Cape Sabine. Since the beginning of the
year he had been extremely weak, but lingered on till the 9th of April.
He was the most distinguished man of the party, his explorations having
been the main achievements of the expedition. His name will remain in
Arctic history.
“Jewell is much weaker to-day,” were the last words Lockwood wrote. This
was on the 7th April, and on the 12th Jewell died. On the 11th, Brainard
fortunately shot a bear, which probably saved the lives of some of the
party; and on the following day Long shot a small seal. On the 13th the
ration was increased to a pound of meat daily. On the 20th it had to be
reduced to 10 oz. Towards the end of April, Greely was seriously ill,
and in danger of dying. Henry, taking advantage of his illness, stole
alcohol, and became hopelessly drunk.
On the 29th April, Jens and Long were out hunting, and watched a seal
lying on an isolated floe. They hoped the floe would drift in to the
fast ice, but after a long delay, Jens decided to try and reach it in
his kayak. He crossed one lead, dragged his kayak across the ice, and
entered a second. Long, who was looking on, saw Jens suddenly begin to
paddle rapidly, and the next moment the kayak began to sink. Jens made
an effort to get up on the ice, but it was new and could not bear his
weight, and he was drowned. The kayak was probably cut when being
dragged over the ice.
On the 3rd of May the last of the bread was used, and only nine days’
meat remained. On the 6th a violent scene took place between Greely and
Dr. Pavy regarding the doctor’s reports. On the 12th, Greely decided to
divide the last of the regular rations, as he was afraid that one or two
of the worst men of the party might appropriate the remaining food,
which was only sufficient to last till the 15th of May.
The want of provisions rapidly told on the starved men. Ellis died on
the 19th, Ralston on the 23rd, and Whisler on the 24th. They now tried
to feed on saxifrage (_Saxifraga oppositifolia_). On the 24th they had
for dinner a handful of saxifrage, two or three spoonfuls of shrimps,
and a pint and a half of tea. On the 26th there was a severe storm,
which prevented Brainard going to obtain shrimps, and in consequence
stews had to be made of the seal-skin thongs used for lashing the
sledge.
Sergeant Israel, the astronomer, died on the 27th May. At the beginning
of June, fourteen of the party were still alive, but did not expect to
live long, unless the hunters were more fortunate or relief came
quickly. On the 1st June they had a breakfast of shrimps and seaweed
after a fast of thirty-four hours. Lieutenant Kislingbury died at 3 p.m.
He was the only one of the party known by Greely before contemplating
Arctic work. Although he had trouble with him at the commencement of
their work at Conger, Greely acknowledged that he was a hard-working
officer, and that he never spared himself in labours which would add to
the personal comfort of others.
Salor died on 4th June. On this date, Greely, against the doctor’s
advice, decided to try to eat tripe de Roche. As Henry had been found
stealing again, he was cautioned by Greely that he would come to grief
if he did not stop it. Greely also gave written orders to Brainard,
Frederick, and Long that if Henry was again caught stealing he was to be
shot. Next day Frederick detected Henry stealing shrimps, and Greely
found that he had been stealing seal-skin thongs contrary to positive
orders. He was ordered to be shot, Greely giving the order in writing.
It was carried out the same day.
On the 6th June, Dr. Pavy drank about 3 oz. of extract of ergot, having
evidently mistaken it for a preparation of iron. He died the same day at
6 p.m., and Bender fifteen minutes before him. Greely states that Dr.
Pavy was a man of fine education, polished manners, and great Arctic
ambition. His medical skill was great, and contributed much to the
general welfare of the party during the last winter. He thought,
however, that his previous Bohemian life unfitted him for duty where his
actions were subject to restriction or limitation from others.
For breakfast on the 7th all the shrimps were eaten, and everybody began
collecting reindeer-moss, tripe de Roche, and saxifrage. On the 11th
June the party obtained a guillemot, and a second went to the hunters.
Next day the nets for catching shrimps were lost through the floes
breaking up. Gardiner appeared to be dead at 11 a.m. of this day, and
was carried from the tent in which the party had been living for some
time; but later he showed signs of life, and did not die until 5 p.m.
On 13th June, Greely issued to the party his seal-skin jumper for
dinner. He also divided between them the dirty, oil-tanned covering of
his sleeping-bag. Schneider died on 18th June.
Near midnight of the 22nd the whistle of a ship was heard. At first the
party could hardly believe their ears. Brainard went to the brow of the
hill, but no ship was to be seen. The party had resigned themselves to
despair, when suddenly strange voices were heard, and they realised that
they were saved. During the forty-two hours prior to their rescue a few
square inches of soaked seal-skin was all the nutriment they received.
No relief or expeditionary vessels ever before ventured at so early a
date the dangers of Melville Bay. Congress had offered a reward of 25000
dollars for the first information regarding the expedition, and this had
an important bearing on the rescue. The Scotch whalers set forth on
their voyage many days earlier than was customary, and there was a
friendly rivalry in the search between them and the American vessels in
charge of Captain Schley, who, profiting by their experience and advice,
won in the race for Cape Sabine.
Of the twenty-five men of the party eighteen had died. The living were:
Greely, Brainard, Long, Frederick, Bierderbick, Connell, and Elison. It
was found necessary, however, to perform secondary amputation in the
case of Elison, and he died at Godhavn on the 8th of July.
As regards the responsibility for the great disaster which overtook this
expedition, Greely admitted that, although not under orders to do so, he
should have done more than arrange for a retreat to Cape Sabine in the
event of not being reached at Conger. But little blame can be attached
to him for this omission. It is easy to criticise after the event, but
it seemed in the highest degree improbable that, if he could not be
reached at Conger, there would be the least difficulty in the relief
ships leaving sufficient supplies at Cape Sabine or other point on the
west coast.
The disaster can be traced in the first place to the instructions given
to Greely to abandon the station and retreat to the south in the event
of no relief ship reaching him. It would have been much better to have
left this question to Greely’s discretion. If the party had remained at
Conger another winter, it is highly probable that no disaster would have
occurred.
In the second place, the chief responsibility undoubtedly lay with those
who had charge of the relief. A ship was sent north in 1882, and failed
in its mission; but instead of leaving its stores, or even part of its
stores, at some point likely to be reached by Greely, those in command
took the incredible course of returning south with the stores intact.
In 1883 those in authority must have known that absolutely nothing had
been done in 1882, and that in the event of a failure to reach Conger
taking place in 1883, Greely would certainly retreat southwards. One
would therefore have expected that all possible precautions would be
taken to insure the safety of the expedition. The possible wreck of one
of the relief ships should have been arranged for, and steps taken to
insure that sufficient supplies would not only be left at Littleton
Island, but at some point on the west coast.
Serious responsibility was incurred by Lieutenant Garlington when he
made the written statement that everything in the power of man would be
done to relieve the expedition. All through the horrors of the winter
nearly the whole of Greely’s party believed to the last that a relieving
party was at Littleton Island watching the first favourable opportunity
to cross the Sound.
The whole arrangements for the relief ended in a gigantic muddle, and
while nothing was done to lend assistance, Greely’s party were induced
by fair promises to camp in a practically barren region.
* * * * *
This expedition, and others which had preceded it, gave little
encouragement to Americans to continue Arctic exploration, although the
results achieved had been important. Kane lost the _Advance_; his party
had to undergo great privations, and had ultimately to retreat in boats.
The _Polaris_ was lost, and many of the members of the expedition had to
suffer greatly. De Long lost the _Jeannette_, and a large number of his
party met a terrible fate; and now Greely’s expedition was the climax of
them all.
[Illustration: MAP OF FRANZ JOSEF LAND]