When Covillian was ready to depart from Ethiopia, and awaited leave for

that purpose, which he had solicited, Alexander died, and was succeeded

by a new emperor named _Nahu_, who could never be prevailed on to allow

of his departure; neither could he procure leave for that purpose from

the next emperor, David, the son of Nahu, so that Covillian had to remain

in Ethiopia, and never returned into Portugal. From that time King John

never heard more of him, and therefore concluded that he was dead;

nothing having ever been received from him respecting his travels, except

what was contained in the letters carried by the Jews, as before

mentioned.

There came afterwards to Lisbon, a friar from this country of Presbyter

John, who was received courteously by the king, and on whose reports of

great things concerning that country, the king determined to proceed in

making a discovery of the way to the Indies by sea. He accordingly gave

orders to John de Bragança, his surveyor of the forests, to cut down

timber for building two small ships for that voyage. But King John died,

and was succeeded by King Manuel, of glorious memory, who had been chosen

by Divine Providence to accomplish the discovery of these countries, by

which the Christian faith hath been greatly extended, the royal house of

Portugal much honoured, and the subjects wonderfully enriched.

SECTION II.

_Narrative of the first Voyage of Vasco de Gama to India and back, in the

years 1497, 1498, and 1499_.

On the death of King John, he was succeeded by Don Manuel, a prince of a

great mind, bent upon high enterprise, and prone to undertake and execute

things beyond the ordinary reach of human knowledge, even more than was

Alexander the Great. Being exceedingly desirous to prosecute the

discovery of the Indies, which had been begun by his predecessor, and

proceeding upon the information left him by King John, relative to that

navigation, he commanded Fernan Lorenzo, treasurer of the house of Mina,

to cause construct two ships for this voyage, from the timber which had

been provided by King John. These were named the Angel Gabriel and the

San Raphael, the former being of the burden of 120 tons, the latter 100.

In addition to these, a caravel of 50 tons, called the Berrio, and a ship

of 200 tons were purchased. In the year 1497, the king appointed Vasco de

la Gama, as chief captain for the voyage, an experienced navigator, who

had done great service, and a man of great valour, well fitted for

executing the great enterprize intended by the king. Paulo de la Gama,

brother to the captain-general, and Nicholas Coello, both men of valour

and enterprise, were appointed the other captains of the squadron.

Bartholomew Diaz was likewise commanded to accompany the squadron of

discovery in a caravel to the Mirna: And as the three ships of war

appointed for the voyage could not contain a sufficient supply of

provisions for their crews, the ship of 200 tons, which had been

purchased from Ayres Correa, was ordered to accompany de Gama to a place

called St Blaze, at which the squadron was to take in water, where the

victuals with which she was loaded were to be distributed to the other

ships, after which she was ordered to be burnt.

Having received their orders, Vasco de la Gama and the other captains

took their leave of the king at _Monte mayor_, and departed for Lisbon,

where he embarked his company of 148 persons, at Belem, on Saturday the

8th of July 1497. At this embarkation all the religious belonging to the

church of our Lady at Belem, went in procession in their cowls, bare-

headed, and carrying wax candles, praying for the success of the

expedition; accompanied by almost the whole people of Lisbon, weeping and

deploring the fate of those who now embarked, as devoted to certain death

in the attempt of so dangerous a voyage. Thus commended to God and good

fortune, the officers and crews embarked and immediately set sail. Vasco

de la Gama, the captain-general, took the command in the Angel Gabriel,

of which Pedro de Alenquer was pilot, who had been in the same capacity

with Diaz when he passed the Cape of Good Hope, and discovered the _Rio

del Infante_. Paulo de Gama went captain of the San Raphael, Nicholas

Coello of the caravel Berrio, and Gonsalo Gomes[1], a servant of Vasco de

la Gama, commanded the large victualling ship. The captain-general gave

out instructions, that in case of separation, they should keep their

course for Cape Verd, which was appointed as their rendezvous.

Proceeding on the voyage, they came in sight of the Canaries in eight

days, whence steering for Rio de Oro, they were separated by a tempest,

during an exceedingly dark night, on which they all shaped their course

for Cabo Verde. Paulo de la Gama, Nicholas Coello, Bartholomew Diaz, and

Gonsalo Gomes rejoined, and sailed together for eight days, when they

came in sight of the captain-general on Wednesday evening, and saluted

him with many guns, and the sound of trumpets, all heartily rejoicing for

their safe meeting and good fortune in this their first essay of danger.

Next day, being the 20th of July[2], the fleet reached the islands of St

Jago, and came to anchor in the bay of Santa Maria, where it remained

seven days, taking in fresh water, and repairing the yards and other

parts of their rigging which had been damaged in the late storm. On

Tuesday the 3d of August[3], the captain-general went on his voyage,

after taking leave of Diaz, who now returned to Portugal. Proceeding for

the Cape of Good Hope with all his squadron, de la Gama _entered the gulf

into the sea_[4], and sailed all August, September, and October,

suffering many great tempests of violent wind and rain, so that they

often expected instant death. At length, on Saturday the 4th November,

they got sight of land at nine in the forenoon, at which they were

greatly rejoiced; and being all together, the captains saluted the

general, all dressed in their best array, and having their ships all

decorated with flags. Not knowing the coasts they sailed along until the

Tuesday following, when they had a perfect view of a low shore, in which

was a great bay, that appeared convenient for the ships to take in water,

into which they all entered and came to anchor. This place was afterwards

named _Angra de Santa Elena_, or St Helen's bay[5]. The people of the

country, as our men afterwards found, were small, black, ill-favoured

savages, clothed in the skins of beasts, somewhat like French cloaks,

having curious wrought wooden cases for their privities; and in speaking

they seemed always, sighing. These natives were armed with oak staves,

hardened in the fire, pointed with the horns of beasts, somewhat burnt or

hardened with fire, which served them for swords. They lived on the roots

of herbs, and on sea wolves and whales, which are very numerous in this

country, likewise on sea crows and gulls. They also eat of certain beasts,

which they call Gazelas, and other beasts and birds which the land

produces; and they have dogs which bark like those of Portugal. The

general, after the squadron was brought to anchor, sent Coello in a boat

along the shore, in search of water, which he found four leagues from the

anchoring ground, at a place which he named St. Jago,[6] whence all the

ships provided themselves with fresh water.

Next day, the general with the other captains, escorted by some of the

people, went on shore to view the natives, and to endeavour to learn what

distance the Cape of Good Hope was from thence; for the chief pilot, who

had been on the voyage with Diaz, had departed thence on returning, in

the morning, into the open sea, with a fair wind, and had passed it

during the night, and had not come near the shore when outward bound;

wherefore he did not certainly know its situation, nor was he acquainted

with its appearance, but conjectured it might be thirty leagues from

where they then were at the utmost. When the general was on shore, he

overtook one of the natives, who was going to gather honey at the foot of

a bush, where it is deposited by the bees without any hive. With this

person, he returned to the ship, thinking to have got an interpreter, but

no one on board the squadron could understand his language. The general

commanded this man to have meat and drink, and set him on shore next day

well dressed, that he might return satisfied to his countrymen.

Accordingly, the day following, this man came down to the shore abreast

of the ships, with about fifteen more natives, and the general went

ashore, carrying with him spices, gold, and pearls, to try if these

people had any knowledge of these things. But from the little estimation

with which these articles were viewed, it was concluded that the natives

had no knowledge of them. The general distributed among the natives some

small bells, tin rings, counters, and such toys, which they received

joyfully; and from that time till next Saturday morning, great numbers of

the natives resorted to the fleet, whence they went back to their towns.

One Fernan Veloso craved leave of the general to accompany the natives to

their habitations, that he might see their manner of living. On going

along with them, the natives took a sea wolf which they roasted at the

foot of a hill for their supper, after which they made Veloso return to

the fleet, and it appeared to him that the natives had armed themselves,

meaning to attack our people. On his return, Veloso saw that he was

secretly followed, wherefore he hastened to the shore and hailed the

ships. On this, the general who was then at supper, looked out towards

the land, where he saw numbers of the savages following Veloso. He

therefore gave orders for all the ships to be in readiness against an

attack, and went himself on shore with several others unarmed, not

dreading any harm. On seeing our boats coming towards the shore, the

savages began to run away with much clamour; but when our people landed,

they returned and set upon them furiously, throwing their darts, and

using other weapons, which constrained our people to take to their boats

in all haste, taking Veloso along with them; yet in this scuffle the

general and three others were wounded. The Negroes returned to their

towns; and during four days after, while our ships remained in the bay,

they never saw any more of the natives, so that they had no opportunity

to revenge the injury they had done.

"Some commerce took place between the Portuguese and the Hottentot

natives around St Elena Bay, by means of signs and gestures; when the

fleet received plenty of excellent fresh provisions, in exchange for

clothes, hawks bells, glass beads, and other toys; but this friendly

intercourse was interrupted through the imprudence of a Portuguese young

man named Veloso. Delighted with the novelty of the scene, and anxious to

see the manners of the natives more intimately, he obtained permission to

accompany them to their huts, where a sea calf was dressed in the

Hottentot fashion, to his great astonishment. Disgusted at their

loathsome cookery, he rose abruptly, and was impatient to depart, and was

accompanied by the natives on his way back to the ships with the utmost

good humour. Veloso, however, became apprehensive of personal danger, and

horridly vociferated for assistance on his approach to the shore. Coellos

boat immediately put off to bring him on board, and the natives fled to

the woods. These needless apprehensions on both sides were increased by

mutual ignorance of each others language, and led to hostilities. While

De Gama was taking the altitude of the sun with an astrolabe, some

Hottentots sprung from an ambush, and threw their spears, headed with

horn, very dexterously among the Portuguese, by which the general and

several others were wounded. On this occasion, the Portuguese deemed it

prudent to retreat to their ships[7]."

Having taken in fresh water and provisions in St Elena Bay, the squadron

left that place on the forenoon of Thursday the 16th November, with the

wind at S.S.W. and steered for the Cape of Good Hope, and on the evening

of the following Saturday came in sight of that cape. But on account of

the wind being contrary, he had to stand out to sea all day, and turned

towards the land as night set in. In that manner he continued plying to

windward until the following Wednesday, which was the 20th of November[8],

when he doubled the cape with a fair wind, sounding the trumpets of all

the ships, and making every demonstration of joy, but placing the chief

confidence in God, that his providence would guide and protect them in

accomplishing the enterprise in which they were engaged.

"In this part of the voyage the greatest proofs of courage and resolution

were evinced by De Gama. While endeavouring to double this formidable and

almost unknown cape, owing to contrary winds and stormy weather, the

waves rose mountain high. At one time his ships were heaved up to the

clouds, and seemed the next moment precipitated into the bottomless abyss

of the ocean. The wind was piercingly cold, and so boisterous that the

commands of the pilot could seldom be heard amid the din of the warring

elements; while the dismal and almost constant darkness increased the

danger of their situation. Sometimes the gale drove them irresistibly to

the southwards, while at other times they had to lay to, or to tack to

windward, difficultly preserving the course they had already made. During

any gloomy intervals of cessation from the tempest, the sailors,

exhausted by fatigue, and abandoned to despair, surrounded De Gama,

entreating him not to devote himself and them to inevitable destruction,

as the gale could no longer be weathered, and they must all be buried in

the waves if he persisted in the present course. The firmness of the

general was not to be shaken by the pusillanimity and remonstrances of

the crew, on which a formidable conspiracy was entered into against him,

of which he received timely information from his brother Paulo. With his

assistance, and that of a few who remained stedfast to their duty, the

leading conspirators, and even all the pilots, were put in irons; whilst

De Gama, and his small remnant of faithful followers remained day and

night at the helm, undismayed at the dangers and difficulties that

surrounded them. At length, on Wednesday the 20th November, all the

squadron safely doubled the tremendous promontory[9]."

Continuing the voyage along the coast beyond the cape, they saw great

numbers of large and small cattle as they passed, all well grown and fat;

but could perceive no towns, as the villages inhabited by the natives are

all farther inland, the houses being of earth covered with straw. The

natives were all somewhat black, clothed like those they had seen at St

Elena Bay, speaking the same language, and using similar darts, together

with some other kinds of arms, both for defence and assault. The country

is very pleasant, being diversified with wood and water; and adjoining to

the cape on the east side, they found a great harbour now called False

Bay, almost six leagues wide at the mouth, and running about as much into

the land. Having thus doubled the cape, the squadron came, on the Sunday

after, being St Katherine's day, 25th November, to the watering-place of

St Blaze[10], which is sixty leagues beyond the cape, and is a very large

bay, exceeding safe in all winds except the north[11].

The natives here resembled those already seen in dress and arms. The

country produces many large elephants, and numerous oxen, of vast size

and extremely fat, some of which have no horns. On some of the fattest of

these the natives were seen riding, on pannels stuffed with rye straw, as

is used in Spain, and having a frame of wood like a saddle. Such of them

as they choose to sell they mark by means of a piece of wood, like the

shaft of one of their arrows, put through the nose. In this harbour,

about three cross-bow shots from the shore, there is a rock much

frequented by sea wolves, as large as great bears, very wild and fierce,

with long, great teeth. These animals are very dangerous, and will attack

men, and their skins are so hard as not to be pierced with spears, unless

pushed with much force and valour. These animals resemble lions, and

their young bleat like kids. One day that our men went to this rock for

amusement, they saw at least three thousand of these animals, old and

young. On this rock also, there are great numbers of birds as large as

ducks which do not fly, having no feathers in their wings, and which bray

like so many asses[12].

Having thus arrived at the Bay of St Blaze, and lying there at anchor,

the general caused all the provisions to be taken out of the store-ship

and divided among the others, and then burned the store-ship, as the king

had ordered. In this business and other needful employments, for their

safety in the remainder of the voyage, they were occupied in that bay for

ten days. On the Friday after their arrival, about ninety of the natives

made their appearance, some on the shore, and others on the hills, on

which the general and the captains went to the shore, having their boats

crews well armed, and even taking ordinance with them, to avoid the same

accident which had happened at St Elena bay. When near the shore, the

general threw some bells on the land, which the Negroes pickt up, and

some of them came so near as to take the bells out of his hands. He much

wondered at this familiarity, as Diaz had informed him when he was in

those parts, the natives all ran away and would never approach near

enough to be seen and conversed with. Finding them thus gentle, contrary

to his expectation, he went on land with his men, and bartered red night-

caps with the Negroes, for ivory bracelets which they wore on their arms.

Next Saturday, the natives came to the shore to the number of more than

two hundred, including their children, and brought with them twelve oxen,

and four sheep. When our people went on shore, some of the natives began

to play on four flutes, in four several tones, making good music; on

which the general caused the trumpets to be sounded, and the natives

danced with our people. Thus the day passed in mirth and feasting, and in

purchasing their oxen and sheep. On Sunday a still greater number of the

natives came down to the shore, having several women among them, and

bringing a number of oxen for sale. After the sale of one of the oxen,

some of our people noticed some young Negroes hidden among certain bushes,

who had with them the weapons of the older people, from which it was

conjectured that some treason was intended. Upon this, the general caused

our people to remove to a place of greater security, and were followed by

the Negroes to the landing place. The Negroes now gathered together, as

if they meant to fight the Portuguese; on which the general, being

unwilling to harm them, embarked in the boats with all his people, and

then commanded two pieces of brass ordnance to be fired off, on which

they were much amazed and scampered off in confusion, leaving their

weapons behind. After this, the general ordered a cross or pillar, having

the arms of Portugal to be set upon the shore, but the Negroes pulled it

down immediately, even before our people retired.

After remaining ten days here, as before mentioned, the fleet set sail

for the Rio del Infante, on Friday the 8th December, being the Conception

of our Lady, and during this part of the voyage, there arose a great

storm with _forewind_ on the eve of St Lucy, 12th December, that all the

ships run under close reefed courses. During this storm, they parted

company with Nicholas Coello, but rejoined the next night after. On the

16th December, when the gale abated, they discovered land near certain

small rocks, sixty leagues from the harbour of St Blaze, and five leagues

from the Pennon de la Cruz, where Diaz set up his last stone pillar[13],

and fifteen leagues short of the Rio del Infante[14]. This country was

very pleasant, and abounded in cattle, becoming more sightly and with

higher trees the further our fleet sailed towards the east, as could be

easily seen from the ships as they sailed along near the shore. On

Saturday they passed close within sight of the rock _de la Cruz_, and

being loath to pass the _Rio del Infante_, they stood out to sea till

vespers, when the wind came round to the east, right contrary. On this,

the general stood off, and on plying to windward, till Tuesday the 20th

December, at sunset, when the wind changed to the west, which was

favourable. Next day at ten o'clock, they came to the before-mentioned

rock, being sixty leagues a-stern of the place they wished to have

attained[15].

This rock is the cause of the great currents on this coast, which were so

powerful, that the fleet had much ado with a brisk favourable wind to

stem the current between that place and Rio Infante in three or four days;

but at length they joyfully passed these currents without damage, as Diaz

had done formerly, and the general, encouraged by his good fortune, gave

thanks to God, saying, he verily believed it was the good pleasure of God

that they should attain to the discovery of the Indies.

Thus continuing the voyage till Christmas day, they had discovered

seventy leagues to the eastwards, and had arrived in the latitude in

which India was said to be in his instructions. The fleet continued to

sail for so long a time without going to land, as to be in want of water,

insomuch that they had to dress their provisions in sea water, and were

forced to reduce the allowance of drink to one pint of water per man each

day. But on Friday the 11th January 1498, drawing near the land, the

boats were sent out to view the coast, where they saw many Negroes, both

men and women, all of whom were of great stature, and followed our boats

along the coast. As these people appeared quiet and civil, the general

called Martin Alonzo, who could speak many of the Negro languages, and

desired him and another to leap on shore, which they immediately did.

Alonzo and his companion were well received by the natives, especially by

their chief, to whom the general sent a jacket, a pair of breeches, and a

cap, all of a red colour, and a copper bracelet, of which he was very

proud, and returned thanks to the general, saying, "that he might have

any thing he wished for or needed that his country produced." All which,

as Martin Alonzo understood their language[16], he reported to the

general, who was much pleased that by this means an intercourse could be

opened with the natives. Alonzo and another of our people were

accordingly permitted by the general to go for one night along with the

natives to their town, where the chief dressed himself out in his new

garments, and was beheld with much admiration by his people in his finery,

clapping their hands for joy. This salutation was repeated three or four

times on their way to the town, and when there, the chief made the

circuit of the whole village, that all the people might see and admire

his new and strange attire. When this ceremonial was ended, the chief

retired to his own house, where he commanded Alonzo and his companion to

be well lodged and entertained, and gave them for supper a hen exactly

the same as one of ours, and a kind of pap, or porridge, made of a yellow

grain called _Mylyo_[17], of which likewise they made bread. Many of the

Negroes repaired that night to their lodging to have a near view of the

strangers; and next day, the chief sent them back to the ships,

accompanied by some Negroes, laden with hens for the general, who

returned thanks for the same by means of Alonzo his interpreter. During

five days that our ships remained off this coast, no kind of harm was

done or offered by the inhabitants, who seemed quiet and gentle, and to

have many _noble men_, for which reason, he called this place _Terra da

boa gente_, or the land of Good People[18]. The town in which Martin

Alonzo was had its houses constructed of straw, yet well furnished within.

The women were more numerous than the men, as in a company of forty women,

there were only twenty men. These people were armed with long bows and

arrows, and had darts headed with iron, having many copper bracelets, on

their arms and legs, with copper ornaments in their hair. They have also

iron daggers, with pewter handles and ivory sheaths; so that it is

manifest they have plenty of copper and tin. They have likewise abundance

of salt, which they make from sea water, which they carry in gourds to

certain caves where the salt is made. They were so fond of linen, that

they gave a great quantity of copper in exchange for an old shirt, and

were so quiet and civil, that they brought water to our boats from a

river about two cross-bow shots from the landing, which our people named

Rio do Cobre, or Copper River.

"Osorius places the arrival of the Portuguese on this part of the coast a

day earlier than Castaneda, and gives the following additional

information. On the 10th January 1498, they discovered some small islands,

about 230 miles from their last watering-place, having a very beautiful

appearance, and consisting of verdant meadows, intermixed with groves of

lofty trees, where they could see the inhabitants walking on the shore in

great numbers. Here De Gama landed, and sent one of his men, who was well

versant in the Negro languages to visit the king, and who was received

with much civility, receiving presents of the produce of the country on

his dismissal. Before leaving Lisbon, De Gama received ten malefactors on

board who had been condemned to die, but were pardoned on condition of

going on this voyage, for the purpose of being left wherever De Gama

pleased, that they might examine the country, and be enabled to give him

an account of the inhabitants on his return. On setting sail from this

place, De Gama left two of these exiles on shore, to inform themselves of

the character and manners of the natives[19].

From this place our fleet departed on the 15th January, and proceeding on

their voyage, came to another country of very low land, having very thick

tall trees; and proceeding onwards, they found a river which was very

open at the mouth, near which he came to anchor on Thursday the 24th of

January, as the general deemed it proper to examine this country, and to

try if any intelligence could be here procured concerning India. That

same evening, he and his brother Nicholas Coello[20] entered the river;

and, at day-break next morning, the land was observed to be extremely low

and covered with water, having many trees of great height, thickly loaded

with various kinds of fruits, the country appearing very pleasant. They

saw likewise certain boats with some of the natives coming towards the

ship, at which the general was well pleased, as he conceived from their

having some degree of maritime knowledge in these parts, that he could

not now be very far from India, or at least should soon hear news of that

country. The natives were Negroes of good stature, all naked, except each

a small apron of cloth made of cotton. On reaching the ships, they came

on board without hesitation, and behaved themselves as if they had been

long acquainted with our people. They were well received, and were

presented with bells and other toys, but did not understand any of the

languages spoken by Martin Alonzo, or any of the other interpreters on

board, so that the only intercourse was by signs. They departed after

good entertainment, and afterwards they and many others returned to the

ships in their boats, bringing with them such provisions as their country

afforded. The natives seemed much satisfied with their reception; and

besides those who came to the ships by water, many others came by

land[21], among whom were several women who were tolerably handsome,

especially the young maidens; but all were as naked as the men. They have

three holes in their lips, in which they wear small pieces of tin by way

of ornament. The natives took several of our men along with them to make

merry at one of their towns, whence they brought water to our ships.

After the general had been three days in this river, two of the nobles,

or head men of the natives, came on board to visit him, who were naked

like the rest, except that their aprons were much larger, and one of them

had a handkerchief on his head, embroidered with silk, while the other

wore a nightcap of green satin[22]. Observing their cleanliness, or

civility, the general treated these people courteously, and gave them

victuals, apparel, and other things, of which they seemed to make but

small account; and by certain signs, shewn by a young man, it was

understood that his country was at a considerable distance, where he had

seen ships as large as ours. This intelligence gave great hopes to our

people that the Indies were not far off, which was much confirmed by the

chiefs who had been on board, sending off for sale certain cloths made of

cotton, on which there were marks of ochre. In respect of all these

encouraging tokens, the general named this river _Ho rio dos bos Sinaes_,

or River of Good Signs; and called the place San Rafael, after the name

of his own Ship[23].

From the signs of the before-mentioned young men, that the country of the

head men who had been on board was far off, where they had seen large

ships, the general concluded that the Indies were still at a great

distance; and therefore determined, in consultation with the other

captains, to lay the ships aground, to give their bottoms a thorough

repair, which was done accordingly. In this operation they employed

thirty-two days, during which, our people were much afflicted with a

grievous sickness, thought to proceed from the air of the country. Their

hands and feet became swelled, and their gums became so sore and putrid

that they could not eat, and the smell of their breath was quite

intolerable[24]. With this pestilent infection our people were much

discouraged, and many of them died, the survivors being in great trouble

and perplexity. But De Gama took much care, and used much diligence for

their recovery, and to comfort their affliction; continually visiting the

sick, and giving them such wholesome and medicinal things as he had

provided for his own use; through all which many recovered who would have

died, and the rest were thereby greatly comforted, and encouraged.

Having repaired the ships, and provided them with all necessaries that

could be procured at the river of Good Signs, the fleet departed from

thence on Saturday the 24th of February.

"At this period, two accidents occurred which had nearly frustrated all

the hopes of this expedition. De Gama being along side of the ship

commanded by his brother, with whom he wished to speak, had hold of the

chains, when the boat was carried from under him by the force of the

current, but by immediate assistance, he and his boats crew were

providentially saved. Soon afterwards, when the fleet was passing the bar

of the river, the ship of De Gama grounded on a sand bank, and her loss

was for some time considered as inevitable; but she floated again with

the return of the tide, and to their inexpressible joy received no

damage[25]."

As there was little or no wind, the fleet stood out to sea to avoid the

shore, and about vespers on Sunday, they descried three small islands out

to sea, about four leagues distant from each other. Two of these were

replenished with trees, but the third was quite bare. Seeing no cause to

delay the voyage in examining these islands, De Gama held on for six days,

coming always to anchor at night. On the evening of Thursday, the first

of March, they came in sight of four islands, two of which were near the

land, and the other two farther out to sea; and the fleet steered through

the channel next morning, the ship commanded by Coello, as being the

smallest, going first. But endeavouring to enter a certain harbour,

between the mainland and one of these islands, Coello missed the channel

and ran aground, on which the other ships put about and went back. They

soon perceived seven or eight boats under sail coming from the island

which was a good league distant from Coello, at which sight they were

much rejoiced, and Coello and his people received them with much

demonstration of friendship and satisfaction, Coello went along with

these people to the general, and presented them, saying, that here was a

quite different kind of people from any they had seen hitherto. Then the

general commanded _to let them go a seaboard with their boats_[26], as he

proposed to go with them to their island to anchor with his ships, that

he might see what kind of a country it was, and if he could learn any

certain intelligence concerning India. But the boats continued to follow

our ships, making signals, and calling to our people to wait for them;

wherefore the ships came to anchor, and the boats came to our fleet. The

people on board were of good stature and somewhat black, clothed in

dresses of cotton, striped with sundry colours; some girdled to their

knees, while others carried their apparel on their shoulders like cloaks.

Their heads were covered with kerchiefs, somewhat wrought with silk and

gold thread, and they were armed with swords and daggers like Moors. In

their boats, also, they had certain musical instruments named _sagbuts_.

They came immediately on board with as much confidence as if they were

long acquainted, and entered into familiar conversation in the language

of Algarve, and would not be known as Moors[27].

The general ordered these people to be well entertained, and they eat and

drank willingly of whatever was set before them; after which, by means of

Fernan Alvarez, who could speak their language, he learned that the

island to which they belonged was called Monsambicke, or Mozambique, on

which was a town full of merchants, who traded with the Moors of India,

who bring them silver, linen cloth, pepper, ginger, silver rings, many

pearls, and rubies; and that, from a country behind, they procure gold.

They offered likewise to conduct our people into the harbour, where they

would learn the truth of these things more fully. On consulting with the

other captains, the general determined upon going into this harbour, to

examine more accurately into these reports, and to procure pilots to

carry them on their voyage, as they had no one in the fleet who knew the

way. Nicholas Coello was therefore ordered to make the first essay, and

to take the soundings of the bar, his ship being the smallest. But in

entering, he touched on the point of the island where he broke his helm,

and was in great danger of being lost; but by good providence he got off

with no farther injury. He now found the bar was quite safe, and got into

the harbour, where he anchored two cross-bow shots from the town, which

is in fifteen degrees towards the south[28]. The harbour is very good,

the town is plentifully supplied with such provisions as the country

produces, the houses being constructed of straw, and the inhabitants

Moors, who trade to Sofala in large vessels that have neither decks nor

nails, their planks being sewed together with _cayro_ or twine, made from

the fibres of the cocoa nut rind, and their sails of mats made of the

leaves of a species of palm. Some of these vessels use compasses of Genoa,

and regulate their voyages by means of quadrants and sea charts. With

these Moors the Moors of India trade, as likewise do those from the Red

Sea, because of the gold which is to be had here. On seeing our people,

the Moors of Mozambique thought the Portuguese had been Turks, whom they

knew of from the Moors who dwell on the Red Sea; and those who were first

at our ships carried intelligence to the xeque, or sheik, which is the

title of the governor of this island for the king of Quiloa, in whose

territories it is situated.

"Though we shall afterwards have occasion to investigate this eastern

coast of Africa more fully, in editing particular voyages to its shores,

some notices seem here to be proper[29]. Owing to his keeping at a

distance from, the shore for security, the present voyage gives little

knowledge of the eastern coast of Africa, and it is even difficult to

assign the many stations at which De Gama touched between the Cape of

Good Hope and Mozambique. We have already noticed the river of Good Signs,

as being probably the northern mouth of the Delta of the Zambeze, now

called _Quilimane_, from a fort of that name on its banks. The mouth of

this branch runs into the sea in lat. 18° 25' S. In his passage from the

_Terra de Natal_, or Christmas Land, so named from having been discovered

on Christmas day, and named, in this account of De Gamas voyage, _the

Land of Good People_, De Gama missed Cape Corientes, forming the S.W.

point of the channel of Mozambique, or _Inner Passage_, as it is now

called, and overshot Sofala, the southern extremity of Covilhams

discoveries, at which he was probably directed to touch, as Covilhams

chart might have been of some use to direct his farther progress to Aden,

and thence to Calicut or Cananor, on the Malabar coast.

"The eastern coast of Africa is hitherto very little known to geography,

its trade being entirely confined to the Portuguese, who have

settlements at Sofala, the river Zambeze, Mozambique, Quiloa, and Melinda,

and conceal all the circumstances respecting their foreign possessions

with infinite jealousy. It is said to have once been in contemplation by

the British government, to employ Sir Home Popham to make a survey of

this coast, but this design was never executed. Commodore Blanket

remained on this station for a considerable time, and much information

may be expected from his journal, some drawings of the coast having been

already made for charts, which are preparing, under the orders of the

Admiralty. About the year 1782, a great mass of geographical information

was collected on the continent of Europe and lodged in the British Museum,

from which information may probably be derived respecting this coast,

when that collection shall have been arranged and submitted to the

public. According to D'Apres, all the eastern coast of Africa, for a

great way south of the equinoctial, is lined by a range of islands,

whence shoals extend to the distance of a league. These islets form an

outer shore, with a winding channel within, and are in some places a

league from the coast of the continent, though very apt to be mistaken

for the real coast. Within this range the boats or almadias of the

country ply backwards and forwards in great safety, in the intervening

channel.

"Ptolemy places the _Prasum promontorium_, or Green Cape, the extreme

southern boundary of ancient knowledge of the east coast of Africa, in

lat. 15" 30' S. and the Portuguese universally assume Mozambique as

Prasum, by which classical name it is distinguished in the Lusiad of

Camoens, in reference to the voyage of De Gama, and the near coincidence

of situation gives great probability to this supposition. [Greek:

prason] signifies a leek, and is also used to denote a sea-weed of a

similar green colour, and the name may either have been derived from the

verdure of the point, or from the sea-weeds found in its neighbourhood.

At all events, Prasum cannot be farther south than Cape Corientes, or

farther north than Quiloa or the Zanguebar islands. The harbour of

Mozambique has seldom less than eight or ten fathom water, which is so

clear, that every bank, rock, or shallow can be easily seen.

"The Moors, so often mentioned, are supposed by Bruce to have been

merchants expelled from Spain by Ferdinand and Isabella, who first fixed

their residence on the western coast of Africa, and extending themselves

eastwards, formed settlements in Arabia and Egypt, till the oppressions

of Selim and Soliman, the Turkish emperors, interrupted their commerce,

and obliged them to disperse along the coast of Abyssinia and eastern

Africa. Besides the impossibility, chronologically, for the assigned

causes having produced the supposed effect, there is no necessity for

having recourse to this improbable hypothesis. From being best acquainted

with their Moorish conquerors, the Spaniards and Portuguese have always

been accustomed to name all the Arabians Moors, wherever they found them,

and even gave at first the name of _black_ Moors to the Negroes, whence

our old English term _Black-a-moors_. It is well known that the Arabs,

especially after their conversion to Mahometanism, were great colonizers

or conquerors; even the now half-christian kingdom of Abyssinia was an

early colony and conquest of the pagan Arabs, and its inhabitants are

consequently _white_ Moors in the most extended Portuguese sense. The

Arab, or Moorish kingdoms along the African coast of the Indian ocean,

are branches from the same original stem, and the early Mahometan

missionaries were both zealous and successful in propagating Islaemism

among the most distant pagan colonies of their countrymen. As all zealous

Mussulmen are enjoined the pilgrimage of Mecca, and commerce mixes

largely with religion in the holy journey, by which the faithful from

every distant region often meet at Mecca, and induce each other to extend

their commercial adventures to new regions, it may possibly have been,

that some Moors originally from Spain, may even have reached Mozambique

before the time of De Gama; but it is ridiculous to suppose that all the

Moors on the African coast had been Spaniards. The overthrow of the great

Moorish kingdom of Granada only took place five or six years before the

present voyage.

"The island of Mozambique, which does not exceed a league in

circumference, is described as low and swampy, and was inhabited by Moors

who had come from Quiloa and Sofala. It was afterwards much resorted to

by the Portuguese as a winter station, and became the key of their Indian

trade. The African coast stretches out on both sides of the island into

two points, that on the north-east called Pannoni, off which a shoal with

three islets extends, some way into the sea. The southern point is called

Mangale[30]."

When the Moorish governor of Mozambique[31] was informed of the arrival

of the Portuguese, and that Coello was come to anchor in the harbour, he

fully supposed that they were Turks or Moors from some distant place, and

immediately came to visit him, apparelled in fine silk, with many

attendants. Coello received him very courteously; but as neither he nor

any in his ship could speak their language, the governor soon retired.

Coello gave him, however, a red cap, on which he seemed to set little

value, and presented him likewise with some black beads, which he carried

away in his hand, both being given and received in token of friendship.

On leaving the ship, he required Coello, by signs, to let him have the

boat to carry him on shore, which Coello readily agreed to, and sent some

of his men to the land along with him. These the governor carried to his

house, and feasted them on dates and other things, and sent back with

them a pot of preserved dates to Coello, with which he regaled the

general and his brother when they had entered the harbour. On the arrival

of the other two ships, the governor again sent off some of his people to

visit them, still taking them for Turks, presenting many pleasant and

delicate viands, and asking permission to visit them in person. The

general, in return, sent the governor a present, consisting of red hats,

short gowns, coral, brass basons, hawks bells and many other things,

which he slighted as of no value, and asked why the general had not sent

him scarlet, which he chiefly desired.

Soon afterwards the governor came off to visit the general; who, being

apprized of his coming, ordered all the ships to be dressed out in their

flags. He likewise made all the sick and infirm men to be kept out of

sight, and brought a good many of the most alert men from the other ships,

whom he ordered to be secretly armed, in case of any violence or

treachery on the part of the Moors. The governor came on board,

accompanied with many men, all well apparelled in silk, having many ivory

trumpets and other musical instruments, on which they played almost

without ceasing. The governor was a lean man, of good stature, dressed in

a linen shirt down to his heels, over which he wore a long gown of Mecca

velvet, having a cap of silk of many colours, trimmed with gold, on his

head, at his girdle he wore a sword and dagger, and had silk shoes. The

general received him on entering the ship, and led him to an awning,

trimmed up in the best manner they were able. The general then begged him

not to be offended that no scarlet had been sent, having brought none

with him, and that his ships only contained such merchandize as were fit

to be bartered for victuals for the people; and that his only object at

present was to discover the way to the Indies, for which purpose he had

been sent by a great and mighty king, his master. All this was conveyed

through the interpretation of Fernan Martin[32]. The general then ordered

an entertainment of the best meats and wines which the ship afforded, to

be set before the governor and his principal attendants, of all which

they partook willingly, even drinking wine with good will. The governor

asked whether they came from Turkey, as he had heard say that the Turks

were a fair people like them, and desired to see our country bows, and

the books of our law. To this the general answered, that he and his men

were not from Turkey, but from a kingdom in their neighbourhood; that he

would most willingly shew his bows and other weapons, but had not the

books of our law, as they were not needed at sea. Then some cross-bows

were brought, which were bent, and shot off in presence of the governor,

also some of our harness or defensive armour, with all of which he was

much pleased, and greatly astonished.

During this conference, the general learnt that the port of Calicut in

India was 900 leagues distant from Mozambique; and, as there were many

shoals in the course, that it was very necessary to have a pilot from

this place. He learned also that there were many cities along the coast.

He likewise understood, that the kingdom of Prester John was far from

this place, in the inland country[33]. Considering the expediency of

having a pilot, the general requested to have two from the governor, who

agreed to the demand, on condition that they should be well used. The

reason of wishing to have two was, lest one might die during the voyage,

and our people were much pleased with this promise. The governor came a

second time to visit the general, and brought with him both the pilots

whom he had promised; to each of whom were given thirty crowns and a coat,

each crown being worth five shillings, under this condition, that

whenever one of them should go on shore, the other should remain on board,

that one might always stay by the ship while in harbour.

Notwithstanding these friendly meetings, speeches, and assurances, it

soon appeared, after the departure of the governor, that the Moors had

learned, during their intercourse with our people, that they were

Christians, on which the former friendship and good will of the Moors

towards them was changed to wrath and fury, and they henceforwards used

every endeavour to kill our men, and to take possession of the ships. The

governor, therefore, and his people, used every effort for this

mischievous purpose, and had certainly succeeded, if the Almighty had not

moved the heart of one of the Moorish pilots who had been received into

the Portuguese fleet, to reveal the same to the general; who, fearing

lest the infidels might suddenly execute their purpose, as being numerous

in comparison to his small company, determined to remain no longer in the

harbour. Wherefore, on Saturday the 10th March 1498, being seven days

after his arrival, he quitted the harbour of Mozambique, and cast anchor

close to an island, at the distance of a league from that place;

intending, on Sunday, to hear mass on shore, that they might confess and

receive the sacrament, which had not been done since leaving Lisbon.

After the ships were come to anchor in this place of safety from being

burnt by the Moors, which the general greatly dreaded, he determined to

go back to Mozambique in his boat, to demand the other pilot who had been

promised, but who still remained on shore. Leaving his brother with the

fleet, in readiness to come to his aid if needful, the general went

towards Mozambique with his boat, accompanied by Nicholas Coello, and the

Moorish pilot. On their way they saw six _zambucos_ or boats, filled with

Moors, coming towards them, armed with long bows and arrows, and also

with shields and spears. The Moors called to our people to come along

with them to the town; and the Moorish pilot, who explained their signals,

advised the general to do so, as the governor would not otherwise deliver

the other pilot, who still remained on shore. The general was much

displeased at this advice, believing the pilot only wished him to

approach the shore, that he might be able to run away, and therefore

ordered him to be secured as a prisoner. He likewise gave orders to fire

at the Moorish boats from his ordnance. When Paulo de la Gama heard the

shot, believing the general to be in more danger than he actually was, he

immediately came with the ship Berrio under sail to his aid. On seeing

this, the Moors fled away in such haste that the general could not

overtake them, and therefore returned with his brother to where the other

ships were at anchor.

Next day, being Sunday, the general and all his men went on shore, where

they heard mass, and received the sacrament very devoutly, having

confessed the evening before. After this they re-embarked and set sail

the same day. Having no hope of procuring the other pilot, the general

ordered to release him whom he had confined, and carried him on the

voyage. But he, willing to be revenged for the indignity he had

experienced, determined on carrying the Portuguese fleet to the island of

Quiloa, which was all peopled with Moors; and, as it seemed, intended to

inform the king of that place that our ships belonged to the Christians,

that he might destroy them and kill the crews. For this purpose, he

craftily persuaded the general not to be in trouble for want of the other

pilot, as he would carry him to a great island, on hundred leagues from

thence, which was inhabited half by Moors, and half by Christians, who

were always in war with each other, and where he might easily find pilots

to conduct him to Calicut. Though the general was much pleased with this

information, he yet did not give implicit credit to the Moor, but

promised him high rewards if he carried him in safety to that country,

and so went forward on the voyage with a scant wind.

On the Tuesday the fleet was still in sight of the land from which they

took their departure, and remained becalmed all that day and the next. On

Wednesday night, a gentle breeze sprung up from the eastward, on which

the fleet stood off to seaward, but on Thursday morning, on again making

the land, they were four leagues to leeward of Mozambique, whence plying

to windward, they came back that evening to the island where they had

heard mass on the Sunday before, where they cast anchor and remained

eight days waiting for a fair wind. While here at anchor, a white Moor,

who was a _molah_ or minister among the Moors of Mozambique, came on

board the generals ship, representing that the governor was much grieved

at the breach of peace and friendship between them, which he would now

gladly renew. To this the general made answer, that he would make no

peace with the governor unless he sent him the other pilot whom he had

hired and paid. With this answer the _molah_ departed, and never came

back. After this, while still waiting for a fair wind, there came another

Moor on board, accompanied with his son, a boy, and asked the general to

give him a passage to the city of Melinda, which he said was on his way

to Calicut. He said that he was a native of the country near Mecca,

whence he had piloted a ship to Mozambique, and would gladly go with him,

that he might return to his own country; and farther, he counselled the

general not to remain in expectation of any answer from the _zeque_, who

he was sure would make no peace with him, on account of his hatred to the

Christians. The general was rejoiced at the coming of this Moor,

expecting to acquire information from him concerning the straits of the

Red Sea, and of the towns on the coast between Mozambique and Melinda, by

which he had to sail, and therefore gave orders to receive this Moor and

his son on board.

As the ships were rather short of water, the general and the other

captains determined upon entering the harbour of Mozambique, to take in

what they needed; but ordered strict watch to be kept, lest the Moors

should set the ships on fire. They entered therefore again into the

harbour on Thursday; and when night came, they went in their boats in

search of water, which the Moorish pilot assured them was to be found on

the firm land, and offered to guide them to the place. Leaving Paulo de

la Gama in charge of the ships, and taking Nicholas Coello and the pilot

along with him in the boats, the general went on shore about midnight to

the place where the pilot said that water was to be had. But it could not

be found; whether that the pilot misled them in hope of escaping, or

finding he could not escape, did so out of malice. Having spent the whole

night fruitlessly in search of water, and day beginning to dawn, the

general returned to the ships for more force, lest the Moors might set

upon him and his small company at a disadvantage. Having furnished his

boats with a larger force of armed men, he returned to the shore, still

accompanied by Coello and the Moorish pilot, who, seeing no means of

escaping, now pointed out the watering-place close by the shore. At this

place they observed about twenty Moors armed with darts, who shewed as if

they meant to prevent them from taking water. The general therefore gave

orders to fire three guns, to force them from the shore, that our men

might be able to land unopposed. Amazed and frightened by the noise and

the effect of the shot, the Moors ran away and hid themselves in the

bushes; and our people landed quietly, and took in fresh water, returning

to the ships a little before sunset. On arriving, the general found his

brother much disquieted, because a Negro, belonging to John Cambrayes,

the pilot of Paulo de la Gama, had run away to the Moors, though himself

a Christian.[34]

Upon Saturday the 24th of March, being the eve of the annunciation of our

Lady, a Moor appeared early in the morning on the shore, abreast of the

ships, calling out in a loud and shrill voice, "that if our men wanted

any more water they might now come for it, when they would find such as

were ready to force their return." Irritated at this bravado, and

remembering the injury done him in withholding the promised pilot, and

the loss of the Negro, the general resolved to batter the town with his

ordnance in revenge, and the other captains readily agreed to the measure.

Wherefore they armed all their boats, and came up before the town, where

the Moors had constructed a barricade of boards for their defence on the

shore, so thick that our men could not see the Moors behind. Upon the

shore, between that defence and the sea, an hundred Moors were drawn up,

armed with targets, darts, bows, arrows, and slings, who began to sling

stones at the boats as soon as they came within reach. They were

immediately answered with shot from our ordnance, on which they retired

from the shore behind their barricade, which was soon beaten down, when

they ran into the town, leaving two of their men slain. The general and

his men now returned to the ships to dinner, and the Moors were seen

running from that town to another; and so much were they afraid of the

Portuguese, that they abandoned the island, going by water to another

place on the opposite side. After dinner, our people went with their

captains on shore, to endeavour to take some of the Moors, with the hope

of procuring restitution of the Negro belonging to Cambrayes, who had run

away from the ships, and they were likewise desirous of recovering two

Indians, who were said by the Moorish pilot to be detained as captives in

Mozambique.

On this occasion, Paulo de la Gama seized four Moors who were in a boat;

but a great many Moors in other boats escaped, by hastening on shore and

leaving their boats behind, in which our men found much cotton cloth, and

several books of their Mahometan law, which the general ordered to be

preserved. The general and the other captains ranged in their boats along

side of the town, but did not venture on shore, not having sufficient

force, nor could they get any speech of the Moors. Next day they went on

shore at the watering-place, where they took what was needed without any

opposition from the Moors. Being now hopeless of recovering the Negro, or

of procuring the Indian captives, it was determined to depart; but the

general resolved to be revenged on the town and people for their enmity.

For which reason, he went against it next day with ordnance, and

destroyed it in such sort that the Moors had to abandon it, and flee into

another island within the country.[35] This being done, the fleet weighed

anchor on Tuesday the 27th of March, and departed from Mozambique, whence

they proceeded to two little rocks, which they called St George, and

where they came to anchor in waiting for a wind, which was now contrary.

Soon afterwards the wind came fair and they departed, but the wind was so

light, and the currents so strong, that they were forced in a retrograde

course.

The general was much pleased to find that one of the Moors taken by his

brother at Mozambique was a pilot, and was acquainted with the navigation

to Calicut. Proceeding on their voyage, they came, on Sunday the first of

April, to certain islands very near the coast, to the first of which they

gave the name of _Ilha da Açoutado_, because the Moorish pilot of

Mozambique was here severely whipt by order of the general, for having

falsely said that these islands were part of the continent, and likewise

for not shewing the way to the watering-place at Mozambique, as before

related. Being cruelly whipt, the Moor confessed that he had brought them

to this place expressly that they might perish on the rocks and shoals of

these islands, which were so numerous and so close together, that they

could hardly be distinguished from each other. On this the general stood

out to sea, and on Friday the 4th of April,[36] standing to the north-

west, he came in sight, before noon, of a great land, with two islands

near the coast, around which were many shoals. On nearing the shore, the

Moorish pilots recognized it, and said that the Christian island of

Quiloa was three leagues astern; on which the general was much grieved,

believing certainly that the natives of Quiloa had been Christians, as

represented by the pilots, and that they had purposely taken a wrong

course that the ships might not come there. The pilots, to conceal their

treachery, alleged that the winds and currents had carried the ships

farther than they reckoned. But in truth, they were more disappointed in

this than even the general, as they had reckoned upon being here revenged

upon the Portuguese, by having them all slain. In this God preserved our

people from the intended danger most miraculously, for if they had gone

to Quiloa they had all surely perished; as the general was so fully

persuaded of the natives being Christians, as reported by the pilot, that

he would doubtless have landed immediately on his arrival, and have

thereby run headlong to a place where he and all his people would have

been slain. Both parties being thus sorry for having missed Quiloa, the

general because he hoped to have found Christians, and the Moorish pilots

because of their intended treachery, it was determined to put back with

the intention of seeking for it; but still the wind and currents opposed

their purpose, and they tried a whole day in vain. This doubtless

proceeded from the providence of God, and his merciful goodness to our

men, who were thus preserved by miracle from the malicious and devilish

intentions of the two Moorish pilots of Mozambique.

The fleet being thus baffled and tossed to and fro, it was determined to

bear away for the island of Mombaza, in which the pilots said there were

two towns, peopled both by Moors and Christians. But they gave out this

as before to deceive our people, and to lead them to destruction; for

that island was solely inhabited by Moors, as is the whole of that coast.

Understanding that Mombaza was seventy miles distant, they bore away for

that place, and towards evening, they came in sight of a great island

towards the north, in which the Moorish pilots pretended there were two

towns, one of Christians and the other of Moors; making this false

assertion to make our people believe that there were many Christians on

this coast. While pursuing their voyage towards Mombaza for some days,

the ship San Raphael chanced one morning, two hours before day, to get

aground on certain shoals, two leagues from the shore of the continent.

Paulo de Gama immediately made signals to apprize the other ships of his

situation and their danger; on which they had the good fortune to avoid

the shoals and got safely to anchor. The boats from the other ships were

immediately sent off to assist Paulo de Gama in the St Raphael; and, on

seeing that the tide was then low, the general was much rejoiced, as he

well knew she would float again with the tide of flood; whereas, before,

he was much afraid she might be totally lost. He therefore gave orders to

carry all their anchors out to deep water, to prevent her from getting

farther on the shoal. By the time this was done day broke, and soon after

at low water the St Raphael was quite dry on a sand bank, having taken no

harm in striking. While waiting for the tide of flood, our people named

these sands _Os baixos de Sam Rafael_, or the Shoals of St Raphael, and

named certain islands and hills of the continent, then in sight, the

islands and hills of St Raphael.

While the ship remained thus dry, and the people walking about on the

sand, they saw two boats full of Moors, who came to our ships, bringing

many sweet oranges, much better than those of Portugal. These men told

the general not to fear any damage to the ship which was aground, as she

would float uninjured with the next flood; and the general was so much

pleased with this good heartening, that he gave them several presents,

which they accepted with many thanks; and understanding that our fleet

intended to put in at Mombaza, they requested to be carried thither. The

general granted their request, and permitted them to remain on board, the

others returning from our ships to their own country.[37] When it was

full sea, the St Raphael floated and got off the shoal, and the fleet

proceeded on its voyage.

Following the coast to the north-eastwards, the fleet came to anchor

outside of the bar of the harbour of Mombaza, about sunset of Saturday

the 7th of April. Mombaza is on an island very near the shore of the

continent, and has plenty of provisions, such as millet, rice, and cattle,

both large and small, all well grown and fat, especially the sheep, which

are uniformly without tails; and it abounds in poultry. It is likewise

very pleasant, having many orchards, abounding in pomegranates, Indian

figs, oranges, both sweet and sour, lemons, and citrons, with plenty of

pot-herbs, and it has an abundant supply of excellent water. On this

island there is a city having the same name, Momabza, standing in lat.

4°S. which is handsomely built on a rocky hill washed by the sea. The

entrance of the haven has a mark or beacon, and on the very bar there is

a little low fort, almost level with the water.[38]

Most of the houses of this place are built of stone and lime, having the

ceilings finely constructed of plaster, and the streets are very handsome.

This city is subject to a king of its own, the inhabitants being Moors,

some of whom are white and others brown[39]. The trade of this city is

extensive, and its inhabitants are well dressed, especially the women,

who are clothed in silk, and decorated with gold and precious stones. The

harbour is good and much frequented by shipping, and it receives from the

African continent, in its neighbourhood, great quantities of honey, wax,

and ivory.

The general did not enter the harbour that night because it grew late,

but commanded to hoist the flags in compliment, which the people did with

much mirth and joy, in hope that they had come to an island in which

there were many Christians, and that next day they might hear mass on

shore. They had likewise great hope that the sick, who were almost the

whole crews, might here recover their health; though, indeed, they were

much reduced in number, many having died during the voyage. Soon after

our ships came to anchor, although night approached, a large boat,

containing about a hundred men, all armed with swords and targets, was

seen coming towards the fleet. On reaching the generals ship, they would

have all come on board with their weapons, but the general only permitted

four of their principals to come aboard, and even they unarmed; causing

them to be told in their own language, that they must excuse his

precaution, being a stranger, and not knowing therefore whom he might

trust. To those whom he permitted to come on board he gave courteous

entertainment, presenting them with such conserves as he had, of which

they readily partook; and he requested of them not to take ill that he

had thus refused entrance to so many armed men. They said that they had

merely come to see him, as a new and rare thing in their country, and

that their being armed was merely because such was the custom of the

country, whether in peace or war. They also said, that the king of

Mombaza expected his arrival, and would have sent to visit him, if it had

not been so late, but certainly would do so next day. Their king, they

added, was rejoiced at his arrival, and would not only be glad to see him,

but would load his ships with spices. They also said that there were many

Christians on the island, who lived by themselves; at which the general

was much pleased, believing their story, which agreed with what the two

pilots had said. Yet he entertained some jealous doubts, for all their

fair speeches, and wisely suspected the Moors had come to see if they

could lay a train to take our ships. In this he was perfectly right, as

it afterwards appeared that this was their sole intent. The king of

Mombaza had received perfect intelligence that we were Christians, and of

all that we had done at Mozambique, and plotted to be revenged, by taking

our ships and killing our men.

Next day, being Palm Sunday, still prosecuting his wicked purpose, the

king sent some white Moors with a message to the general, declaring his

great joy at our arrival, inviting him into the harbour, and engaging to

supply him with all things he might be in need of; and, in token of amity,

sent him a ring, a sheep, and many sweet oranges, citrons, and sugar

canes. These white Moors were likewise instructed to pretend that they

were Christians, and that there were many Christians in the island. All

this was so well counterfeited, that our people actually believed them to

be Christians, on which account the general received them with much

courtesy, and made them some presents, sending a message to the king that

he would certainly come farther into the harbour next day. He also sent a

present to the king of a fine branch of coral. And, for the greater

security, he sent along with these white Moors, two of our banished men,

who had been embarked expressly for such hazardous undertakings, or for

being left on shore where it might be deemed expedient, to become

acquainted with the circumstances of various places, and to be taken on

board again. These men, and the Moors who had been on board, were met in

landing by a number of people, curious to see and examine them, who

accompanied them all the way to the kings palace, where they had to pass

through three several doors, each guarded by an armed porter, before they

came to the place where the king was. They found the king in no very

great state, yet he received them well, and commanded the Moors who had

brought them on shore to show them the city. In going through the streets,

our men saw many prisoners in irons; but, not knowing the language, they

could not ask who or what these were, yet believed they might be

Christians, us our general was informed by the Moorish pilots, and the

kings two messengers, that there were Christians on the island, and that

the Christians and the Moors had wars together. Our men were likewise

carried to the house in which the merchants of India dwelt, who were said

to be Christians. These people, learning that our men were Christians,

shewed much joy at receiving them, embracing and banqueting them, and

shewed them a piece of paper on which the figure of the Holy Ghost was

painted, which they worshipped on their knees, with great shew of

devotion, as if they had been what they pretended. The Moors then

informed our men by signs, that there were many other Christians at

another place, too far for carrying them there; but that they should be

conducted to see them when our ships came into the harbour. All this was

done craftily to entice our people into the harbour, where they were

determined to destroy them all.

After our two men had seen the city, they were conducted back to the king,

who ordered them to be shewn ginger, pepper, cloves, and wheat, giving

them samples of them all to be carried to the general, with assurance

that he had great store of all these commodities, and would give him his

loading if he desired it. They were likewise told, that he had great

plenty of gold, silver, amber, wax, ivory, and other riches, which he

would sell at lower prices than they could be bought in any other place.

This message was brought off on Monday to the general; who, hearing the

kings offer to furnish him with a loading of these commodities, was much

rejoiced, and was much pleased with the information brought by the two

convicts, and their good report of the people, city, and country, and

more especially on account of the _two_ Christians whom they had seen in

the house of the Indian merchants. After a consultation with the other

captains, it was determined to enter the port next day, and to accept the

spices offered by the king of Mambaza, after which, to continue the

voyage to Calicut; and, if they could not procure similar articles there,

to return contented with what might be got in this place. In the meantime,

several of the Moors visited our ships, conducting themselves with much

gentleness and humility, and evincing an appearance of friendship and

kindness to our people, as if they had been long and familiarly

acquainted.

When the tide of flood was sufficiently advanced on the following morning,

the general gave orders to weigh anchor, intending to carry the ships

into the harbour. But the Almighty Disposer of events, not willing that

he and his company should fall into the snare which the Moors had laid

for their destruction, interposed to avert the danger, and to work their

safety. For, when the generals ship had weighed anchor, and was about to

enter the port, she touched on a shoal by the stern; upon which, he

immediately let fall his anchor again, which was likewise done by the

other captains. Seeing this, the Moors who were on board concluded that

he would not enter the harbour that day, and instantly took to their boat,

which was alongside, and made for the city: At the same time, the pilot

of Mozambique leapt from the stern of the admirals ship into the water,

and was taken into the boat by the Moors. The admiral called out to them

to bring him back, but all in vain; on which he began to suspect that the

Moors and their king had evil intentions towards him and his people, and

was thankful for the accident which had detained him from the harbour,

and preserved him from the purposed treachery. After explaining his

apprehensions to the other captains, he commanded, in the evening of this

day, that two of the Moors who had been made prisoners at Mozambique

should be put to the torture, to endeavour to ascertain whether any

treachery was intended, and to force them to disclose the same. This was

done by dropping melted bacon upon their flesh; and they immediately

confessed that treason was intended, and that the pilots had escaped by

swimming from the ship, as fearing the same had been discovered. On this

confession, the general resolved on no account to enter the harbour; yet

determined to put another Moor to the torture, to learn if he were in

confederacy with the rest. But this Moor, on seeing preparations made for

the purpose, although his hands were bound, leapt into the sea; which was

likewise done by another Moor before day-light.

Having thus discovered the secret mischiefs which had been prepared

against him, the general gave thanks to God, by whose good providence he

and his people had been delivered from imminent hazard of death among the

infidels; whereupon he and his company joined in the _Salve regina_ with

great devotion. After this, lest the Moors might attempt any thing

against their safety during the night, he ordered a strong and vigilant

armed watch to be kept. It is worthy of notice, that all the sick among

our people, who were indeed many, began presently to get well from their

first coming to Mombaza; so that in this time of their great necessity

and danger, they found themselves sound and strong, beyond all human hope,

and far above the ordinary course of nature; for which reason it can only

be attributed to the marvellous and supernatural power of God,

miraculously done at this peculiar instant time of need, for the

preservation of these poor and distressed persons, whose only hope of

safety was in him. After the night watch was set, those of the Berrio

felt the cable by which they lay at anchor swagging, as if shaken by a

great tunny, of which there were many in this place, very large and

excellent food: But, on giving more attention to the circumstance, they

perceived that this was occasioned by their enemies the Moors, some of

whom were swimming about the cable, and were cutting it with knives or

falchions, that the ship might drift on shore and fall a prey to them. On

seeing this, our men scared them away by crying out, and gave notice to

the other ships to be on their guard against similar attempts. Some

people from the San Raphael went immediately to the assistance of the

Berrio, and found some of the Moors about the chains and tacklings of the

foremast, who cast themselves into the sea, and swam, along with those

who had attempted to cut the cable, to certain boats that were in waiting

at a short distance, in which, as our people afterwards learnt, there

were a great number of the Moors, who now rowed away to the city in all

haste.

Our fleet still remained off the harbour of Mombaza, all the Wednesday

and Thursday following; during both of which nights the Moors came off in

boats, which always lay close by the shore, whence some of them swam to

the ships, endeavouring to cut our cables: But our men kept such strict

watch, that they were unable to succeed. Our people, however, were always

in much fear and perplexity, lest the Moors might burn our ships; and it

was wonderful they did not make the attempt by means of the ships they

had in the harbour, which, in all human probability, they had succeeded

in, killing and destroying us all. It was conjectured that they were

deterred from making this attempt, from fear of the ordnance in our ships;

but whatever might appear to us as the cause of their not using open

force, it was assuredly the good pleasure and favour of God, that put

their hearts in fear against making an open attack, by which we were

preserved from the execution of their cruel purposes towards us.

The reason of the general remaining during the two days off Mombaza was,

that he might endeavour to procure two pilots from thence to carry him to

Calicut, without which assistance the voyage would have been very

difficult, as our pilots had no knowledge of that country. But finding

none were to be had, he took his departure from that place on Friday

morning, though with a very light wind. On leaving the anchorage, he was

forced to leave one of his anchors behind, as the crew was so completely

exhausted by hauling up the rest, that they were unable to weigh this one.

It was afterwards found by the Moors, and carried into their city, where

it was deposited near the kings palace. When Don Francisco de Almeida,

first viceroy of the Indies, took this place from the Moors, this anchor

was there found, as I shall afterwards relate in the second book of this

work.

Departing thus from Mombaza, the fleet continued its voyage along the

coast to the north-east, and having very light wind, was obliged to come

to anchor in the evening near the shore, about eight leagues from Mombaza.

Towards the dawn of next day, two sambuccos, or little pinnaces, were

seen about three leagues to the leeward of the fleet, and out at sea; on

which, in hope of procuring some pilots who could carry him to Calicut,

the general ordered the anchors to be weighed, and he and the other

captains gave chase to the sambuccos the whole of that day. Towards

vespers, the general came up with and captured one of these pinnaces, but

the other escaped to the land. In the captured pinnace there were

seventeen Moors, among whom was an old man who seemed master over the

rest, and had his young wife along with him. In this boat there was great

store of silver and gold, and some victuals. On the same evening the

fleet came to anchor off Melinda, which is eighteen leagues from Mombaza,

and is in lat. 3° S. This place has no good harbour, being only an almost

open roadstead, having a kind of natural pier or reef of rocks on which

the sea beats with much violence, owing to which the ships have to ride

at a considerable distance from the shore. The city stands in a broad

open plain, along the shore, surrounded with many palms, and other sorts

of trees, which are green the whole year. It has also many gardens and

orchards, abounding with all kinds of herbs and fruits, and many

fountains of good water. Their oranges are particularly excellent, very

large and sweet. They have also abundance of millet and rice, plenty both

of cattle and sheep, and great store of fine poultry, which are very

cheap. Melinda is a large city, with fair streets, and many good houses

of stone and lime, containing several storeys, with windows, and having

terraced roofs made of lime and earth. The native inhabitants are black,

of well proportioned bodies, having curled hair; but many strangers

resort thither and dwell in the city, who are Moors from Arabia, who

conduct themselves in a commendable manner, especially the gentlemen or

better sort. These, from the girdle upwards, go naked; but below the

girdle they are dressed in silk, or fine stuffs of cotton, though some

wear short cotton cloaks, after the old fashion. On their heads they wear

certain cloths embroidered with silk and gold. They wear also rich

daggers, ornamented with silken tassels of many colours, and very

handsome swords. They are all left-handed, and go constantly armed with

bows and arrows, taking great delight in archery, at which they are very

expert. They account themselves good horsemen; yet there is a common

saying on this coast, _the horsemen of Mombaza, and the women of

Melinda_, as in Mombaza they are excellent horsemen, and the women of

Melinda are very handsome, and dress richly.

In this city also there are many Gentiles from the kingdom of Cambaya in

India, who are great merchants and trade to this place for gold, which is

found in this country, as likewise ambergris, ivory, pitch, and wax; all

of which commodities the inhabitants of Melinda exchange with the

merchants of Cambaya for copper, quicksilver, and cotton cloth, to the

profit and advantage of both parties. The king of this city is a Moor,

who is served with far more state than any of the kings on this coast to

the southwards. Being arrived over against this city, the general and all

the people of the fleet were much rejoiced at seeing a city resembling

those of Portugal, and gave thanks to God for their safe arrival. Being

desirous of procuring pilots to navigate the fleet to Calicut, the

general commanded to come to anchor, meaning to use his endeavours for

this purpose. For, hitherto, he could not learn from the Moors he had

lately captured, whether any of them were pilots; and though he had

threatened them with the torture, they always persisted in declaring that

none of them had any skill in pilotage.

Next day, being Easter eve, the old Moor who had been made prisoner in

the pinnace, told the general that there were four ships belonging to

Christians of the Indies at Melinda, and engaged, if the general would

allow him and the other Moors to go on shore, he would provide him, as

his ransom, Christian pilots, and would farther supply him with every

thing he might need. Well pleased with the speeches of the old Moor, the

general removed his ships to within half a league of the city, whence

hitherto no one came off to our fleet, as they feared our men might make

them prisoners; for they had received intelligence that we were

Christians, and believed our ships were men of war. On the Monday morning,

therefore, the general commanded the old Moor to be landed on a ledge, or

rock, opposite the city, and left there, expecting they would send from

the city to fetch him off; which they did accordingly as soon as our boat

departed. The Moor was carried directly to the king, to whom he said, as

instructed by the general, what he chiefly desired to have. He farther

said, that the general desired to have amity with the king, of whom he

had heard a good report, hoping by his aid, and with the will of God, he

might be enabled to discover the route to India. The king received this

message favourably, and sent back the Moor in a boat to the general,

accompanied by one of his own servants and a priest, saying, that he

would most willingly conclude a treaty of amity with him, and should

supply him with what pilots he needed. These messengers likewise

presented the general from the king, with three sheep, and a great many

oranges, and sugar canes, which he thankfully accepted; desiring the

messengers to acquaint their master, that he gladly agreed to the

profered amity, and was ready to confirm the same between them, and

promised to enter their harbour next day. He farther desired them to

inform the king, that he was the subject of a great and powerful

sovereign in the west, who had sent him to discover the way to Calicut,

with orders to enter into peace and amity with all kings and princes on

whose territories he might happen to touch by the way. That it was now

_two years_[40] since he left his own country, and that the king his

master was a prince of such puissance and worth as he was convinced the

king of Melinda would be glad to have for a friend. He then dismissed the

messengers, sending as a present to their king a hat of the fashion of

the time, two branches of coral, three brass basons, two scarfs, and some

small bells.

On the second day after Easter, the general removed his ships nearer the

city. The king knowing this, and believing that the king of Portugal must

be a high-spirited prince, and the general a worthy subject, who had

hazarded himself in so long and dangerous a voyage, became desirous of

seeing such men; wherefore, he sent a more honourable message to the

general, saying, that he proposed next day to visit him in person,

intending that their meeting should be on the water; and sent him a

present of six sheep, with a considerable quantity of cloves, ginger,

pepper, and nutmegs. Upon this message, the general removed his fleet

still nearer the city, and came to anchor close to the four ships of the

Indies, of which the old Moor had made mention as belonging to Christians.

When the owners of these ships learnt that we were Christians, they came

immediately to visit our general, who happened then to be in the ship of

Paulo de la Gama. These men were of a brown colour, but of good stature

and well proportioned, dressed in long white cotton gowns, having large

beards, and the hair of their heads long like women, and plaited up under

their turbans or head-dresses. The general received them with much

kindness and attention, asking, by means of an interpreter, who

understood the language of Algarve, or Arabic, whether they were

Christians. These men had some knowledge of that language, though it was

not their own tongue, but had learnt it in the course of their trade and

conversation with the Moors of Melinda, of whom they advised the general

to beware, lest their inward intentions might be far different from their

outward shew. Willing to make trial if these men were really Christians,

the general caused a picture to be shewn them, on which our Lady was

painted weeping, surrounded by some of the apostles, but without

informing them what this was meant to represent. Immediately on this

being set before them, they fell down and worshipped the picture, praying

for some time. The general then asked if they were of Calicut; on which

they answered they were of Grangalor[41], still farther off, and could

give him no information respecting Calicut. From this time, so long as

our fleet remained at Melinda, these people came every day on board the

ship of Paulo de la Gama, to pay their devotions before this picture,

offering to the images which it represented gifts of pepper and other

things. These Indian Christians, according to their own account, eat no

beef.

On the last day of the week after Easter, and in the afternoon, the king

of Melinda came off in a great boat to our fleet. He was dressed in a

cassock of crimson damask lined with green satin, and wore, a rich cloth

or turban on his head. He sat in a chair, of the ancient fashion, very

well made and wrought with wire, having a silk cushion; and on another

chair beside him, there lay a hat of crimson satin. An old man stood by

him as his page, who carried a very rich sword with a silver scabbard. In

the boat there were many sacbuts, and two ivory flutes eight spans long,

on which they played by a little hole in the middle, agreeing and

according well with the music of the sacbuts. The king was likewise

attended by about twenty Moorish gentlemen, all richly dressed. When the

king had nearly attained our ships, the general went to meet him in his

boat, gaily decorated with flags and streamers, himself dressed in his

best apparel, and attended by twelve of the principal officers of the

squadron, leaving his brother in charge of the ships. On the boats

meeting, the two parties made every demonstration of friendship and

respect; and the Moorish king immediately offered to come on board the

generals boat, that he might see him the better. The general accordingly

received him with all respect, and the king shewed as much honour and

courtesy to the general as if he had been likewise a king. The Moorish

king, after examining the dress and appearance of the general and his men

with the utmost attention, asked the general the name of his king, which

he commanded to be immediately written down. He particularly inquired

respecting the power of the king of Portugal, and the general gave the

most satisfactory answers to all his questions; particularly detailing

the reasons of his being sent to discover Calicut, that Portugal might be

thence supplied with spices, which were not to be had in his own country.

The king, after giving him some information on these points, and

respecting the straits of the Red Sea, promised to furnish the general

with a pilot to carry him to Calicut, and then earnestly solicited him to

accompany him to the city, where he might solace and refresh himself in

the palace, after the fatigues and dangers of so long a voyage; and

promised, if the general would do so, that he the king would visit him on

board. To this the general prudently answered that he was not authorised

by his instructions to go on shore, and that he could not answer for

deviating from the orders of his sovereign. On this the king observed,

that if he were to visit the ships, he could not well answer for his

conduct to the inhabitants of his city; yet, he was grieved that the

admiral refused to go into the city, which should be at his will and

pleasure, and that of the king his master, to whom he should either write

or send an ambassador, if the general would call in at Melinda on his

return from Calicut. The general gave the king thanks for his politeness,

and promised to return that way; and, while this conversation was going

on, he sent for the Moors who had been taken in the pinnace, whom he

presented to the king, saying, he would most gladly perform any other

service that lay in his power to the king. The king was greatly pleased

with this gift, which he valued as much as if the admiral had given him

another city equal to Melinda.

Having ended their conversation, and confirmed their mutual friendship,

the king rowed through among our ships, examining them with much pleasure

and admiration, and was saluted in passing by many discharges of the

ordnance, at which he and his attendants seemed much delighted. On this

occasion, the general attended upon him in his own boat out of respect,

and the king observed, that he never was so much pleased with any men as

with the Portuguese, and would most gladly have some of them to help him

in his wars. To this the general answered, that if his highness were to

have experience of what they were able to perform, he would like the

Portuguese still better; and that they should certainly give him aid, if

it should please the king of Portugal to send any of his war ships to

Calicut, which he did not doubt would be the case, if it were Gods will

to permit the discovery of that place. After the king had satisfied his

curiosity, he requested of the general, since he would not go himself

into the city, to permit two of his men to go and see the palace,

offering to leave his own son, and one of his chief priests, which they

named Caçis[42], in pledge for their safe return. To this request the

general consented, and sent two of our men along with the king: He, at

his departure, requested that the general would next day, in his boat,

come close to the shore, when he should be gratified with a sight of the

native horsemen going through their evolutions. After this they separated.

Next day, being Thursday, the general and Nicholas Coello went in their

boats well armed along the shore, according to the invitation of the king,

keeping at a small distance from each other for mutual defence in case of

need, where they saw many men skirmishing on the shore. As our boats

approached the royal palace, certain of the kings attendants brought him

in a chair down some stone stairs which led to the water; and, being then

very near the generals boat, the king entered into friendly conversation

with him, and once more entreated him to land and go to the palace;

saying, that his father, who was lame, was exceedingly desirous to see

him, and even offered, that, while the general remained on shore, he and

his children would go on board the ships as hostages for his security.

But our general, still dreading that some bitter treachery might lurk

beneath this honied speech, continued to excuse himself from landing, as

he had not permission from his own prince to do so, and must obey him, in

all things. After this, taking his leave of the king, he rowed past the

ships of the Indian merchants, which he saluted in passing with his

ordnance; and when they saw us pass, they held up their hands, exclaiming

Christe! Christe!

That night, having obtained leave from the king, our men made them a

great feast, with much diversion, also of squibs, firing of guns, and

loud cries. The fleet remained at anchor for two days without any message

from the shore, on which account the general was much distressed, fearing

the king had taken offence at his refusal to go on shore, and might break

the peace and amity between them, and not send him any pilot. But on

Sunday the 21st of April, a person who was in high credit with the king,

came off to visit the general, who was much disappointed when this person

brought no pilot, and again began to entertain suspicions of the kings

intentions. When the king learnt this, and that the general remained

merely for the purpose of having a pilot, he sent him one who was a

Gentile, called _Gosarate_[43] in their language, and whose name was

_Canaca_, sending an apology at the same time for not having sent this

person sooner. Thus the king and the general remained friends, and the

peace continued which had been agreed between them.

"De Barros and Faria give this pilot the name of _Malemo Cana_, and say

that he belonged to one of the Indian ships of Cambaya, then at Melinda.

De Barros adds, that he shewed De Gama a very small chart of the coast of

India, laid down with meridians and parallels, but without rhumbs of the

winds. This pilot shewed no surprise on seeing the large wooden and metal

astrolabes belonging to the Portuguese, as the pilots of the Red Sea had

long used brass triangular instruments and quadrants for astronomical

observations, and that he and others who sailed from Cambaya, and the

ports of India, navigated by the north and south stars, and the

constellations of the eastern and western hemispheres; and, though they

did not use these instruments in navigation, they employed one made of

three pieces of board, similar to the _balhestillia_, or cross-staff of

the Portuguese.

"In a collection of papers published in 1790, called _Documentos

Arabicos_, from the royal archives of Lisbon, chiefly consisting of

letters between the kings of Portugal and the tributary princes of the

east in the sixteenth century, the _zeque, sheik_, or king of Melinda,

with whom De Gama afterwards made a treaty of alliance, and whose

ambassador he carried into Portugal, was named Wagerage[44]."

Having thus procured a pilot, and provided all things necessary for the

voyage, De Gama departed from Melinda for Calicut, on Friday the 26th of

April 1498[45], and immediately made sail directly across the gulf which

separates Africa from India, which is 750 leagues[46]. This golf runs a

long way up into the land northwards; but our course for Calicut lay to

the east[47]. In following this voyage, our men saw the north star next

Sunday, which they had not seen of a long while; and they saw the stars

about the south pole at the same time. They gave thanks to God, that,

whereas it had been represented to them, that in this season, which was

the winter of the Indies, there were always great storms in this gulf,

they now experienced fair weather. On Friday the 18th of May, twenty-

three days after leaving Melinda, during all which time they had seen no

land, they came in sight of India, at eight leagues distance, the land

seeming very high. Canaca, the pilot, tried the lead and found forty-five

fathoms, upon which he altered his course to the south-east, having

fallen in with the land too far to the north. Upon the Saturday, he again

drew near the land, but did not certainly know it, as the view was

obscured by rain, which, always falls in India at this season, being

their winter. On Sunday the 20th of May, the pilot got view of certain

high hills which are directly behind the city of Calicut, and came so

near the land that he was quite sure of the place; on which he came up

with great joy to the general, demanding his _albrycias_, or reward, as

this was the place at which he and his company were so desirous to arrive.

The general was greatly rejoiced at this news, and immediately satisfied

the pilot, after which, he summoned all the company to prayers, saying

the _salve_, and giving hearty thanks to God, who had safely conducted

them to the long wished-for place of his destination. When prayer was

over, there was great festivity and joy in the ships, which came that

same evening to anchor two leagues from Calicut. Immediately upon

anchoring, some of the natives came off to the ships in four boats,

called _almadias_, inquiring whence our ships came, as they had never

before seen any resembling their construction upon that coast. These

natives were of a brown colour, and entirely naked, excepting very small

aprons. Some of them immediately came on board the general, and the

Guzerat pilot informed him these were poor fishermen; yet the general

received them courteously, and ordered his people to purchase the fish

which they had brought for sale. On conversing with them, he understood

that the town whence they came, which was in sight, was not Calicut,

which lay farther off, and to which they offered to conduct our fleet.

Whereupon the general requested them to do this; and, departing from this

first anchorage, the fleet was conducted by these fishermen to Calicut.

Calicut is a city on the coast of Malabar, a province of the second India,

which begins at the mount of Delhi, and ends at Cape Comory, being sixty-

one leagues in length, and fifteen leagues broad[48]. The whole of this

country is very low, and apt to be covered with water, having many

islands in its rivers, which flow into the Indian Sea. This country of

Malabar is divided from the kingdom of Narsinga by a very high hill. The

Indians report that this land of Malabar was covered by the sea of old,

which then reached to the foot of the hills, and thence to a hill, where

now the islands of the Maldives are found, which were then firm land; and

that in after times it destroyed that latter country, and laid bare the

country of Malabar, in which are many pleasant and rich cities, dependent

upon trade, which they carry on principally with Calicut, which exceeds

all cities of our days in riches and in vice. Its foundation and rise was

as follows: In ancient times, this country of Malabar was entirely ruled

by one king, who dwelt in the city of _Coulan_. In the reign of the last

king of this race, named _Saranaperimal_[49], who died 600 years ago, the

Moors of Mecca discovered India, and came to the province of Malabar,

then inhabited by idolaters, and governed by an idolatrous king. From the

time of the coming of these Moors, they began to reckon their years as we

do, from the birth of our Saviour[50]. After the coming of the Moors into

Malabar, they insinuated themselves so much into the confidence of the

before-mentioned king, that he became a convert to their law, renouncing

the religion of his country, and embracing Mahometism with such zeal,

that he resolved to go and end his days in the temple of Mecca. Having

thus resolved, out of love to the Mahometan sect, to abandon his kingdom,

he called his kindred together, and divided all his territories among

them, reserving only twelve leagues of country near the place where he

intended to embark, not then inhabited, which he bestowed upon one of his

cousins who acted as his page. To this kinsman he gave his sword and

turban, as ensigns of dignity; commanding all the other nobles, among

whom he had distributed the rest of his territories, to obey this person

as their emperor, the kings of Coulan and Cananor only excepted; whom

also, and all the others, he debarred from coining money, which was only

to be done by the king of Calicut. Having thus given away his whole

dignities and possessions, and set every thing in order, he embarked from

the place where Calicut now stands; and because this king embarked from

that place on his pilgrimage to Mecca, the Moors have ever since held

Calicut in so high devotion, that they and all their posterity would

never take their lading from any other port. From that time forwards,

they discontinued trade with the port of Coulan, which they had used

formerly, and that port therefore fell to ruin; especially after the

building of Calicut, and the settlement of many Moors in that place[51].

As the Moors are merchants of most extensive dealings, they have rendered

Calicut, as the centre of their trade, the richest mart of all the Indies;

in which is to be found all the spices, drugs, nutmegs, and other things

that can be desired, all kinds of precious stones, pearls and seed-pearls,

musk, sanders, aguila, fine dishes of earthen ware, lacker[52], gilded

coffers, and all the fine things of China, gold, amber, wax, ivory, fine

and coarse cotton goods, both white and dyed of many colours, much raw

and twisted silk, stuffs of silk and gold, cloth of gold, cloth of tissue,

grain, scarlets, silk carpets, copper, quicksilver, vermilion, alum,

coral, rose-water, and all kinds of conserves. Thus, every kind of

merchandize from all parts of the world is to be found in this place;

which, moreover, is very quiet, being situated along the coast, which is

almost open and very dangerous. Calicut is surrounded by many gardens and

orchards, producing all the herbs and fruits of this country in great

abundance, having also many palms and other sorts of trees, and abounds

in excellent water. This part of India produces but little rice, which is

a principal article of food in these parts, as wheat is with us; but it

procures abundance of that and all other kinds of provisions from other

countries. The city is large, but the dwellings consist only of straw

huts; their idol temples, and chapels, and the kings palace excepted,

which are: built of stone and lime and covered with tiles; for, by their

laws, no others are permitted to build their houses of any other material

than straw. At this time, Calicut was inhabited by idolaters of many

sects, and by many Moorish merchants, some of whom were so rich as to be

owners of fifty ships. These ships are made without nails, their planks

being sewed together with ropes of _cayro_, made of the fibres of the

cocoa-nut husk, pitched all over, and are flat-bottomed, without keels.

Every winter there are at least six hundred ships in this harbour, and

the shore is such, that their ships can be easily drawn up for repairs.

"The subjects of the following digression are so intimately connected

with the first establishment of the Portuguese in India, as to justify

its introduction in this place, which will greatly elucidate the

narrative of Castaneda; and its length did not admit of being inserted in

the form of notes. It is chiefly due to the ingenious and Reverend James

Stanier Clarke, in his Origin and Progress of Maritime Discovery,

extracted by him from various sources."

"The name of this country, Malabar, is said to be derived from _ulyam_,

which signifies, in the original language of that part of India,

_skirting the bottom of the hills_, corrupted into Maleyam or Maleam,

whence probably came Mulievar, and Mala-bar. In a MS. account of Malabar,

it is said that little more than 2300 years ago, the sea came up to the

foot of the _Sukien_ mountains, or the western _gauts_. The emerging of

the country from the waters is fabulously related to have been occasioned

by the piety or penitence of Puresram Rama, who prayed to _Varauna_, the

God of the ocean, to give him a track of land to bestow on the Bramins.

Varauna accordingly commanded the sea to withdraw from the _Gowkern_, a

hill near Mangalore, all the way to Cape Comorin; which new land long

remained marshy and scarcely habitable, and the original settlers were

forced to abandon it on account of the numerous serpents by which it was

infested: But they afterwards returned, being instructed to propitiate

the serpents by worshipping them."

"At first this country was divided into four _Tookrees_ or provinces,

these into _Naadhs_ or districts, and these again into _Khunds_ or small

precincts. The Bramins established a kind of republican or aristocratical

government, under a few principal chiefs; but jealousies and disturbances

taking place, they procured a _Permaul_ or chief governor from the prince

of Chaldesh, a sovereignty in the southern Carnatic: Yet it is more

likely that this sovereign took advantage of the divisions among the

chiefs of Malabar, to reduce them under his authority. These permauls or

viceroys were for a long while changed every twelve years; till at length

one of them, named Sheo-Ram, Cheruma Perumal, or Shermanoo Permaloo, the

Sarana-perimal of Castaneda, became so popular that he set his master

_Kishen Rao_, the rajah of Chaldesh, at defiance, and established his own

authority in Malabar. An army was sent into Malabar to reduce the country

again to obedience, but it was defeated, and from this event, which is

said to have happened 1000 years ago, all the rajahs, chief _nayres_, and

other lords of Malabar, date the sovereignty and independence of their

ancestors in that country."

"After some time, Shermanoo-Permaloo, either became weary of his

situation, or from attachment to the Mahometan religion, resolved to make

a division of Malabar among his dependents, from whom the present

chieftains are descended. Such is the current story among the inhabitants

of Malabar; yet it is more probable that his dependent chieftains,

disgusted with his conversion to the religion of Mahomet, revolted from

his authority, and contrived this story of his voluntary surrender and

division of his dominions, to justify their own assumptions. After this

division of his kingdom, it is said that an _erary_, or person of the

cast of cow-herds, originally from the banks of the Cavery, near Errode

in the Carnatic, who had been a chief instrument of the success of

Shermanoo-Permaloo in the war against rajah Kishen Rao, made application

to Shermanoo for some support. Having very little left to give away,

Shermanoo made him a grant of his own place of abode at Calicut, and gave

him his sword; ankle-rings, and other insignia of command, and presented

him with water and flowers, the ancient symbols of a transfer of property.

It is said that this cowherd rajah was ordained principal sovereign over

the other petty princes among whom Malabar was divided, with the title of

Zamorin, and was authorized by Shermanoo to extend his dominion over all

the other chieftains by force of arms. His descendants have ever since

endeavoured, on all occasions, to enforce this pretended grant, which

they pretend to hold by the tenure of possessing the sword of Shermanoo

Permaloo, and which they carefully preserve as a precious relic."

"From the period of the abdication of Shermanoo, to that of the arrival

of the Portuguese at Calicut, the Mahomedan religion had made

considerable progress in Malabar; and the Arabian merchants received

every encouragement from the Samoories or Zamorins, as they made Calicut

the staple of their Indian trade, and brought large sums of money yearly

to that place, for the purchase of spiceries and other commodities. As

the rajahs of Cochin and other petty sovereignties on the coast, were

exceedingly jealous of the superior riches and power of the zamorins, and

of the monopoly of trade enjoyed by Calicut, they gave every

encouragement to the Portuguese to frequent their ports; from whence

arose a series of warfare by sea and land, which has finally reduced them

all under subjection to the Europeans."

"According to an Arabian author, _Zeirreddien Mukhdom_, who is supposed

to have been sent to assist the zamorins and the Mahomedans in India, in

their wars with the Portuguese, Malabar is then said to have been divided

among a multiplicity of independent princes or rajahs, whom he calls

_Hakims_, some of whom commanded over one or two hundred men, and others

one, ten, fifteen, or even as high as thirty, thousand, or upwards.

The three greatest powers at that time were, the _Colastrian_[53] rajah

to the north, the zamorin of Calicut in the centre, and a rajah in the

south, who ruled from Coulan, Kalum, or Coulim, to Cape Comorin,

comprehending the country now belonging to the rajah of Travancore."

"We now return from this digression, to follow the narrative of the

Portuguese Discovery and Conquest of India, as related by Castaneda."

So great was the trade and population of Calicut and the surrounding

country, and the revenues of its sovereign through these circumstances,

that he was able to raise a force of thirty thousand men in a single day,

and could even bring an hundred thousand men into the field, completely

equipt for war, in three days. This prince, in the language of the

country, was styled the Zamorin, or Samoryn, which signifies Emperor; as

he was supreme over the other two kings of Malabar, the king of Coulan

and the king of Cananor. There were indeed other princes in this country,

who were called kings, but were not so. This zamorin or king of Calicut

was a bramin, as his predecessors had been, the bramins being priests

among the Malabars. It is an ancient rule and custom among these people,

that all their kings must die in a pagoda[54], or temple of their idols;

and that there must always be a king resident in the principal pagoda, to

serve those idols: Wherefore, when the king that serves in the temple

comes to die, he who then reigns must leave his government of temporal

affairs to take his place in the temple; upon which another is elected to

take his place, and to succeed in ruling the kingdom. If the king who is

in possession of the temporal authority should refuse to retire to the

pagoda, on the death of the king who officiated in spirituals, he is

constrained to do so, however unwilling.

The kings and nobles of Malabar are of a brown complexion, and go naked

from the waist upwards, all the under parts of their bodies being clothed

in silk or cotton Vestments; yet they sometimes wear short gowns on their

upper parts, called _basus_, of rich silk, or cloth of gold, or of

scarlet, splendidly ornamented with precious stones, of all which the

zamorin hath great store. They shave their beards, leaving only the hair

on their upper lips, and do not shave the head like the Turks. In general,

the natives of this country, even of the higher ranks, use little state

in their households, and are very sparing in their diet; but the zamorin

is served with considerable splendour. These kings or nobles never marry;

but every one has a mistress of the Nayre cast, which, among the Malabars,

are considered as the gentry; even the zamorin has only a mistress, who

has a house of her own near the palace, and a liberal allowance for the

charges of her household and maintenance at her own disposal. Upon any

dislike or difference, he may always leave her for another. The children

are only considered as the offspring of the mother, and have no right or

title to inherit the kingdom, or any thing else belonging to the father;

and when grown up, are only held in that rank or estimation which belongs

to the blood or parentage of their mother. Brothers succeed to brothers;

and in lack of these, the sons of their sisters, who do not marry, and

have no certainty respecting the fathers of their children; as they are

very free and dissolute in their manners, choosing paramours as they

please.

These sisters of the zamorin, and other kings of Malabar, have handsome

allowances to live upon; and when any of them reaches the age of ten,

their kindred send for a young man of the Nayre cast, out of the kingdom,

and give him great presents to induce him to initiate the young virgin;

after which he hangs a jewel round her neck, which she wears all the rest

of her life, as a token that she is now at liberty to dispose of herself

to any one she pleases as long as she lives.

When these kings are at war with each other, they often go personally

into the field, and even join personally in fight upon occasion. When one

of them dies, the body is carried out into the fields, and burned on a

pile of sanders, and of another sweet smelling wood called _aguila_, all

his brothers and kindred, and all the nobles of the country being present

at the ceremony; which is uniformly postponed to the third day after

death, that all may have time to gather from a distance, and may have an

opportunity of being assured whether his death was natural, or caused by

violence: Since, if he died by the hand of any one, all are bound to

prosecute revenge. After the body is burnt, and the ashes buried, the

whole company shaves every part of their bodies, even to the youngest

child of these idolaters. This is their token of mourning; and during the

ensuing thirteen days, they all refrain from chewing betel, any one

infringing this law being punished by cutting his lips. During this

period of thirteen days, he who is to succeed to the throne must abstain

from all exercise of government, that any one who pleases may have an

opportunity of urging any valid objection why he should not acquire the

vacant government. After, this the successor is sworn before all the

nobles of the country, to preserve and enforce all the laws and customs

of their ancestors, to pay the debts of his predecessor, and to use his

utmost endeavours to recover any portion of the kingdom that may have

been lost. While taking this oath, having his sword in his left hand, he

holds in his right hand a burning candle, on which is a gold ring, which

he touches with his fingers. After this they throw some grains of rice

over him, using many other ceremonies, and numerous prayers, and then

worship the sun three times. When all these ceremonies are gone through,

all the _Caymayles_, or lords of noble birth, taking hold of the candle,

take an oath to be true and faithful subjects to the new king.