FROM RAMLEH TO JERUSALEM.--THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
All the dragomans had told the travellers before leaving Jaffa that
there was a small hotel at Ramleh, kept by a German, where a dozen or
twenty persons could be accommodated, and there were convents of the
Latin and Russian churches which served as hotels. They might have their
choice, provided the place where he first applied was not already full.
The boys thought it would be more interesting to go to one of the
convents than to a hotel, and the rest of the party agreed with them;
accordingly, it was arranged that they should spend the night either at
the Latin or Russian establishment. When they were within a couple of
miles of Ramleh Ali rode ahead at a gallop to arrange the matter,
leaving the travellers to follow more leisurely.
[Illustration: A SYRIAN HORSEMAN.]
A messenger met them at the entrance of the town with the announcement
that they were to put up at the Russian convent. As they rode along the
Doctor explained to the boys that the "convents" were more properly
hostelries, or hotels for the accommodation of pilgrims on their way to
and from the holy places of the country. They are sustained by the
churches to which they belong. Those who can afford to pay for their
entertainment are expected to do so, the same as at a hotel: but no bill
is presented, nor is any payment demanded. Poor pilgrims are received
free, but their accommodations are much inferior to those for the
traveller with a well-lined purse. The large number of Russians, Greeks,
and other Christians annually visiting Palestine renders the maintenance
of these convents a necessity.
Our friends found the Russian convent so much like a hotel that they
would never have known the difference if they had not been told of it.
The lower story of the building served as a stable; the second story was
reached by a flight of steps on the outside, which brought them to an
open court surrounded by rooms that greatly resembled the cells of a
prison. But the rooms were comfortably though plainly furnished, and as
the youths were fatigued with their ride, and the other exertions of the
day, they had no difficulty in sleeping. There was an hour to spare
before supper, and the party went to see the curiosities of the place.
Frank said they would take a walk to get up an appetite, to which Fred
retorted that he thought the ride was enough to satisfy any reasonable
being on that score.
[Illustration: THE TOWER OF RAMLEH (FROM THOMSON'S "THE LAND AND THE
BOOK").]
The principal sight of Ramleh is the Tower, which is visible for quite a
distance, and forms a conspicuous landmark. Its history is not
definitely known, but it is supposed to have been originally the tower
of a Christian church. The church was destroyed by the Moslems, and the
tower left standing, in order that it might serve as the minaret of the
mosque erected on the site of the Christian edifice. The Tower is about
a hundred feet high altogether, and its summit can be reached by means
of steps in the interior. Ivy and other vines give it an appearance of
age and neglect, and on the top bushes have sprung up from seeds carried
there by the birds.
Doctor Thomson gives a fine view of this structure in "The Land and the
Book," and says he was once detained for some time at Ramleh. Nearly
every day he ascended to the summit of the Tower, and was enchanted with
the view. He wrote as follows in his journal:
"The view from the top of the Tower is inexpressibly grand. The whole
plain of Sharon, from the mountains of Judea and Samaria to the sea, and
from the foot of Carmel to the sandy deserts of Philistia, lies spread
out like an illuminated map. Beautiful as vast, and diversified as
beautiful, the eye is fascinated, and the imagination enchanted,
especially when the last rays of the setting sun light up the white
villages which sit or hang upon the many-shaped declivities of the
mountains. What a paradise was here when Solomon reigned in Jerusalem,
and sung of 'the roses of Sharon!'"
Our friends ascended the Tower and found that the description was by no
means overdrawn. The mountains on one side, the undulating ground at
their feet, the plain between them and the waters of the
Mediterranean--all were there, and above them spread the clear blue dome
of the sky of the East. They lingered till the lengthening shadows told
them the sunset was near and it was time to depart.
Descending from the Tower, they were shown some vaults beneath the site
of the mosque that once stood here. According to tradition, these vaults
were the sepulchres of many Christian martyrs, and there is reason to
believe that the underground chambers were formerly much more extensive
than at present, many of them having been filled up and abandoned.
Various attempts have been made to identify Ramleh with some of the
places named in sacred history, but none of them have been successful.
Some writers think it was the Arimathea mentioned in the Bible, and the
monks claim that the Latin church occupies the site of the house of
Joseph of Arimathea. The Arab writers say the town was founded in the
eighth century by one of their rulers, and they assert that its name is
purely Arabic, and without the slightest trace of any other language.
Dr. Bronson suggested that it was hardly worth their while to
investigate the origin of Ramleh, and, after looking at the bazaar, and
studying the exterior of a few of the principal buildings, they returned
to the Russian convent, and prepared for a good rest, with the view of
making an early start for Jerusalem in the morning.
They were up long before daybreak--they breakfasted by the light of a
weak candle--and, just as the sun was preparing to show himself at the
eastern horizon, they mounted their horses, and rode away in the
direction of the Holy City.
At the edge of the town they found a row of beggars drawn up at the
roadside, or, rather, squatted on the ground, and imploring the
travellers for charity. Several were blind, and others had lost their
hands or fingers, and held up the mutilated stumps to attract attention.
The guide said that some of them were lepers; but the majority had
caused their hands to be cut off, or it had been done by their parents,
in order to fit them for the mendicant profession.
Frank gave a small coin to one of the beggars, and immediately all that
could walk joined in pursuing the travellers, who only escaped annoyance
by quickening the speed of their horses. The Doctor said it was one of
the misfortunes of thus attempting to be charitable in Syria, that you
are immediately beset by all the beggars in sight. The one to whom you
have made a donation joins in the assault, and clamors for more, and
sometimes he is more persistent than any of the rest. A traveller is apt
to have his heart hardened under such circumstances, and, as it is
impossible for him to give to everybody, he very soon settles the matter
by refusing to give at all. The government has suppressed the beggars of
Ramleh by moving them to other localities. The most of them find their
way back again before long, and the places of those who do not return
are speedily filled by others.
[Illustration: ROAD IN THE FOOT-HILLS.]
For three hours the route was much like that of the day before--though,
as they approached the mountains, the land was less fertile, and the
products of the plain gave place to those of the higher ground. At
Bab-el-Wady, or the Gate of the Glen, they entered the mountains, and
left the low land of Sharon behind them. Occasionally looking back, they
found they were steadily rising, as the land lay lower and lower at each
view, and the shining waters of the Mediterranean occupied a larger
space in the horizon. The guide pointed out the ruins of a village which
tradition asserts was the residence of the thief who became penitent on
the cross. The region was once a resort of robbers, and down to the
beginning of the present century, and even later, it had a very bad
reputation. There is a small hotel at the entrance of the valley. The
guide had arranged that luncheon should be served here, and the result
of the morning's ride made everybody ready to sit down as soon as the
table was prepared.
They were now among the hills of Judea, and during the rest of their
journey an abundance of historical events were brought to their notice.
Job's Well was pointed out on the right of the road, and beyond it, on
the crest of a hill, was a dilapidated building called Job's Monastery.
The guide called their attention to the village of Abu Gosh, and said
its modern name was given to it in the early part of the present
century. According to the historians it is identical with Baalah,
mentioned in Joshua xv. 9, and was famous as the place where the Ark of
the Covenant was deposited for a long time. There is an old church near
the village, but they did not stop to examine it. They were anxious to
see the Holy City as soon as possible, and every moment of delay was
of great importance.
The road was dreary enough as it wound among the rocky hills; it was so
crooked in many places that it could only be made out for short
distances in advance of the party, and sometimes the hills seemed to
threaten to shut them in altogether. Every little while they came upon
narrow valleys, where stretches and patches of arable land were utilized
as much as possible for the production of garden vegetables or for
miniature plantations of olive-trees. Here and there villages clung to
the hill-sides, the houses rising one above another in terraces, and
suggesting a series of broad steps on which a giant of the stature of
Goliath might take a walk.
[Illustration: VIEW OF JERUSALEM FROM THE EAST.]
As they wound up one of the ascents the guide said they would see
Jerusalem from the summit. Everybody was in haste for the view, and it
happened that Frank and Fred were in advance when the crest of the hill
was reached. Frank rose in his stirrups, waved his cap with a loud
hurrah, and his example was followed by his cousin. As they reached the
top of the hill they stopped, and in less than a minute their comrades
were with them. All gazed in admiration at the Holy City. There it lay,
bathed in the sun of Palestine, and crowning the rocky hills where it
has stood for many centuries, the wonder of the civilized world and the
goal which many a Christian pilgrim has struggled to reach. For several
minutes not a word was spoken. The towers and walls, the hills of
Israel, the domes and minarets, all were there, and recalled the
pictures with which all students of Christianity are familiar.
When the silence was broken, one of the party repeated the lines of
Tasso which describe the first view of Jerusalem by the Crusaders:
"Winged is each heart, and winged every heel;
They fly, yet notice scarce how fast they fly,
But by the time the dewless meads reveal
The golden sun ascended in the sky,
Lo! towered Jerusalem salutes the eye.
A thousand pointing fingers tell the tale--
'Jerusalem!' a thousand voices cry;
'All hail, Jerusalem!' Hill, down, and dale
Catch the glad sound, and shout 'Jerusalem, all hail!'"
It was a ride of less than an hour from the hill-top to the Jaffa gate
of Jerusalem. They passed the building of the Russian convent and of the
Greek monastery, but had no care for anything else than the Holy City,
and to get inside its walls. The gate was open, the Turkish guard did
not stop them, and in a few minutes they were at the door of the
Mediterranean Hotel. They were weary with their ride, but the excitement
of the occasion made the youths forget their fatigue. Frank proposed
that they should set out at once for the Temple of Solomon, and he was
warmly seconded by Fred. They yielded at once to the suggestion of
Doctor Bronson that they had better wait till the whole party could go
together, and see the city on a systematic plan.
We will not follow our friends in all their wanderings around Jerusalem,
but refer our readers to the accounts which were written by the youths
for the benefit of their friends at home. After describing the ride from
Jaffa, the experience on the road, and their arrival at Jerusalem, they
wrote as follows:
"Jerusalem disappoints us a little, as we had expected wider and cleaner
streets than we find here. We were partly prepared for this, as we have
been in the cities of Egypt, and spent a few hours at Jaffa, but it is
our candid opinion that Jerusalem is worse than Cairo, Suez, or any
other city we have visited. The streets are very narrow, the pavement is
bad, and nobody seems to care whether they are clean or not. Some of
the side streets and alleys would do honor to New York, and Doctor
Bronson says they remind him of home more than anything else he has seen
here.
[Illustration: PLAN OF JERUSALEM.]
"You may think Jerusalem is a large city; if you do you have made a
mistake. The population is estimated between twenty and twenty-four
thousand, and the best authorities say it does not exceed the latter
figure. The Moslems do not take the census as we do; they count the
families, and then make an average of the number in each family, and
they don't do that very often. On the basis of twenty-four thousand
inhabitants, they count thirteen thousand Moslems, seven thousand
Christians, and four thousand Jews. The city was much larger in ancient
times than it is at present. We cannot say exactly when it had its
greatest population, as the old writers do not agree; but it was quite
likely in the reign of King Solomon. The population at that time has
been placed as high as half a million, but was probably not over half
that number. We need not trouble ourselves on the subject, as it is the
modern Jerusalem we are looking at now.
"Jerusalem has suffered more from wars than any other city in the world,
or, at all events, more than any city we have seen. It has been captured
no less than seventeen times, if we may believe the historians, and some
of them say that on several occasions the inhabitants have been
slaughtered, the buildings destroyed, and the ground sown with salt. The
question that comes up to us is, 'Where did they get the salt for that
purpose?' Most of these terrible events in the history of Jerusalem
occurred hundreds, and some of them thousands, of years ago. The traces
of the old walls of Jerusalem are visible in many places, and any
visitor can easily satisfy himself that the city was once much larger
than it is at present.
"As soon as we had brushed up a little after our ride from Ramleh we
went out to see the city and take a stroll through the streets of this
interesting place.
"Near the front of the hotel is the Tower of David on Mount Zion, along
with several other buildings. There is a good deal of dispute as to the
antiquity of the tower, and whether it is really the one built by King
David or not. The general belief is that the foundations are the same,
while the superstructure is more modern. The Church of Mount Zion was
founded during the fourth century, but has been rebuilt two or three
times, its present form having been given to it four or five hundred
years ago. Near the church is a monastery, and its inmates call
themselves the Guardians of Mount Zion. A hospital is attached to the
monastery, and there is a lodging-house where poor pilgrims are received
and cared for during their stay in Jerusalem.
"We went down the Street of David, which passes in front of the
Mediterranean Hotel, and leads from the Jaffa Gate to Mount Moriah. We
told the guide that we wanted to see the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
When we had gone a short distance on the Street of David we turned to
the left into Christ Street, and in a few minutes were in front of the
church that is revered as the burial place of our Saviour.
"There is an open space in front like a little square surrounded by
buildings. We were reminded of the money-changers in the Temple as we
approached the church. The space in front of it was filled with peddlers
and beggars, principally the former, and there was hardly a moment when
we were free from their importunities. The goods offered for sale were
photographs, and curiosities from various parts of the Holy Land,
together with rosaries, charms, and similar trifles made from
olive-wood, the seeds of the olive-tree, or mother-of-pearl. To judge by
the numbers of these itinerent merchants they must do a good business
among the visitors to this sacred spot.
"Wherever we stood to look at the building before us we were surrounded
by these fellows, and we thought how little the customs of the East have
changed since Christ came on earth. The guide said the peddlers paid a
license for the privilege of selling their goods here, and it is more
than probable that the beggars have a similar authority for their
importunities.
"The church was closed when we arrived, and we learned that it was only
open on certain hours of the day. There have been so many quarrels among
the monks that the building has been put in the care of a Moslem guard,
and the key is kept by a Moslem official. There is great jealousy
between the different sects--Latin, Greek, and Armenian--and the Moslems
have been obliged to step in to keep the peace! More than once there
have been such fierce quarrels that blows have been struck, and blood
has been shed within the walls of the church!
"We did not enter the church at that time, but as we visited it
afterward, and went through all parts of it, we may as well describe it
while we are here.
[Illustration: THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.]
"To begin with, there has been a great deal of controversy concerning
the spot where the church stands, some authorities contending that it is
where Christ was buried, while others insist that the Golgotha mentioned
in the Scriptures was a considerable distance outside the walls. There
are many traditions concerning it, and it would take more time than we
can spare to give even a short account of them. So we will drop the
discussion of the question, and tell what we saw. If you want more
information you will find plenty of books on the subject.
"We paid a backsheesh to the Moslem custodians who were stationed at the
entrance, and one of them accompanied us to see that we did not disturb
anything, and also in the expectation of a fee when we were through with
his services.
[Illustration: GROUND-PLAN OF THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
1. Principal door; 4. Tomb of Godfrey; 5. Tomb of Baldwin; 6. Tomb of
Melchizedek; 7. Chapel of Adam and John the Baptist; 8. Tomb of Adam;
11. Place where the Virgin Mary stood while the body was anointed; 13.
Chapel of the Angel; 17. Tombs of Joseph and Nicodemus; 19. Greek
"Centre of the World;" 27. Where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalene; 28.
Where Mary Magdalene stood; 30. Part of the Pillar of Flagellation; 32.
Where Christ appeared to his Mother after the resurrection; 33. Place of
the recognition of the Cross; 35. Place of Christ's bonds; 36. Chapel of
the Virgin; 38. Chapel of Longinus the Centurion; 39. Chapel of the
Mocking; 41. Chapel of St. Helena; 42. Chapel of the Penitent Thief; 44.
Chapel of the Finding of the Cross.]
"Close to the entrance of the church we came to the Stone of Unction,
where the body of Christ was laid to be anointed (John xix. 38-40). It
is a slab of marble surrounded with an iron railing. The guide said it
was above the real stone, in order that the latter might not be injured
by the thousands of pilgrims that come here, and are frequently desirous
of carrying away some relic of the place.
"A short distance beyond this place we came to the spot where the Virgin
Mary stood while the Saviour's body lay on the Stone of Unction. We
paused there only a moment, and then went to the next and greatest
object of interest, the Holy Sepulchre.
[Illustration: THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.]
"The sepulchre is in the rotunda of the church, which has been
reconstructed several times, and has changed a good deal in shape since
the original building was erected. The sepulchre is a small building,
twenty-six feet by eighteen, entirely of marble, and with holes in the
roof, to allow the escape of the smoke from the lamps which burn here
continually. We first entered what is called the Angel's Chamber. It has
in the centre a stone set in marble, and the priests in charge of the
place say it is the stone that was rolled from the mouth of the
sepulchre by the angel. It is probable that the stone has been changed
many times since the crucifixion. The Armenians claim that they have the
real stone in their monastery on Mount Zion, and the Latin monks accuse
them of having stolen it.
"The sepulchre is entered from the Angel's Chapel. It is about seven
feet square, and has the sepulchral couch at one side covered with a
marble slab. The space is so small that we could not all go inside at
once, and the rule is that not more than three or four shall be
admitted together. The inside of the room is divided among four
religious bodies--the Copts, Greeks, Armenians, and Latins. The Copts
have four lamps burning there, and the other three sects have each
thirteen. They take turns in the performance of religious services in
the altar, and when they are thus engaged the Moslem guard stands near
to see that there is no interference.
"We found it was not easy to believe that the sepulchre was hewn in the
solid rock, as the monks declare it to have been. Every foot of space is
so completely covered with marble that no part of the original rock is
visible. The marble was placed here hundreds of years ago, when the
traditions were more authentic than at present, and perhaps it is not
worth while to dispute them.
"From the Holy Sepulchre we went to many places of interest to all
students of Christianity; they were so numerous that it was impossible
to remember all of them, and we went about so rapidly that we did not
even have time to make a complete list. We therefore refer to our
guide-book, and will try to give their names, but without pretending to
follow the order in which we saw them.
"It seemed very odd to us that so many places mentioned in Scripture
should all be found under the roof of a single church. But, whatever may
be our opinions concerning their authenticity, they were all very
interesting, and we shall long retain the memory of what we saw and
heard while within the walls of this famous building. We thought we were
there not more than half an hour, but found we had passed over two hours
in the visit: you can see how much we were absorbed in the subject when
the time flew away so fast.
"Here are the places and objects that were pointed out:
"THE CHAPEL OF THE APPARITION, where Christ appeared to his mother
after the resurrection.
"THE COLUMN OF THE SCOURGING.
"THE LATIN SACRISTY, containing the sword, spurs, and cross of
Godfrey de Bouillon.
"FRAGMENT OF A COLUMN, said to occupy the centre of the world.
"THE PRISON OF CHRIST, where he was kept while his cross was being
made ready for the crucifixion.
"CHAPEL OF ST. LONGINUS, the soldier who pierced the side of Christ
after his death.
"CHAPEL OF THE PARTING OF THE RAIMENT.
"COLUMN OF THE DERISION, where Christ stood when he was crowned
with thorns.
"CHAPEL OF ST. HELENA, containing the seat where the Empress Helena
sat while the cross was being sought for. Near it is the Chapel of
the Finding of the Cross, and the spot is indicated where the cross
was discovered. The Chapel of St. Helena is reached by descending
twenty-nine steps from the floor of the church, and the Chapel of
the Cross is a cavern in the rock, thirteen steps farther down.
"From this spot we ascended to the floor of the church and were taken
to Golgotha, or Mount Calvary, by an ascent of about fifteen feet.
Remember that everything we have mentioned is under the roof of the
church, or, rather, of the different buildings that have been erected to
make up the church. An architect who goes through it can readily
perceive that the construction was not all of the same period, and that
several men must have planned the various portions. The first chapel on
Mount Calvary was erected by the Emperor Constantine, but it has been
rebuilt two or three times, so that little if anything remains of it.
"The first chapel we entered in this part of the church was that of the
Raising of the Cross. They showed us the hole in the rock where the
cross stood, and about five feet on either side were the crosses of the
two thieves. The cleft in the rock, mentioned in Matt. xxvi. 51, was
pointed out in this chapel, and then we went to the next where Christ
was nailed to the cross, the positions being indicated by pieces of
marble in the floor. Beyond this is the Chapel of the Agony, which is
reached by a short stairway; it is a small chapel, and belongs to the
Latin monks, while the Chapel of the Raising of the Cross is the
property of the Greeks.
"Every day when the church is open to the public a good many pilgrims
come there to worship at the sepulchre of the founder of Christianity.
At Easter and other festivals the number is very large, and sometimes
the building is densely crowded. For a long time the Moslems used to
make all visitors pay heavily for the privilege of entering the church,
but of late years they have not been permitted to extort backsheesh. We
went there at an hour when the church was closed, and were,
consequently, obliged to pay the custodian before the key was produced.
"We did not go to the cistern of the Empress Helena, as it would have
prolonged our stay somewhat, and our time was limited. While we were in
the Chapel of the Finding of the Cross the guide told us the tradition
of how the Empress Helena, the mother of Constantine, directed the
excavation, and was present when the three crosses were unearthed. A
woman suffering from an incurable disease was brought and placed upon
two of them without any benefit; as soon as she touched the third she
rose and walked away in perfect health. By this it was determined which
was the true cross, and from that time its fragments have been
distributed among the cathedrals and churches of Europe and other
countries."