VOYAGE FROM EGYPT TO PALESTINE.--JOURNEY FROM JAFFA TO RAMLEH.
The steamer stopped a few hours at Port Said, the northern terminus of
the Suez Canal, and the second morning after her departure from
Alexandria she dropped anchor in front of Jaffa. The time at sea between
Alexandria and Jaffa is from twenty to thirty hours, according to the
speed of the steamer and the state of the weather. There are three
companies--one carrying the French flag, one the Austrian, and one the
Russian--each making a fortnightly service from Alexandria; and there
are several irregular lines, so that a traveller may be reasonably sure
of being able to go from Egypt to the Holy Land every four or five days.
The French steamers are the best, the Austrian the next in order, and
the Russian and the irregular steamers the worst of all.
The steamer that carried our friends anchored about a mile from land,
and the Doctor explained to the youths that there is no harbor at Jaffa
which a ship can enter. In a calm sea, or when the wind blows from the
north or east, passengers may land or embark with safety; but if a
westerly or southerly wind is blowing a landing is impossible. In winter
the prevailing wind is from the west, and many a traveller who takes his
ticket for Jaffa in that season has the vexation of being carried past
the port, for the simple reason that he cannot be put on shore.
Fortunately for our friends the sea was perfectly calm when they came to
anchor, and there was no hinderance to their going on shore. The steamer
was quickly surrounded by boats, and a bargain was made with one of them
for transportation to land. The strong arms of the Arab boatmen sent the
little craft spinning over the water; the oars rose and fell together as
the men kept time by a song that was a trifle monotonous to the ears of
Frank and Fred. But never mind its monotony; it carried the travellers
from ship to shore, and every moment the walls of Jaffa became more and
more distinct through its measured cadence.
They seemed to be heading for some jagged rocks that jutted a little
distance from the line of the shore. The sharp eyes of the boys
discovered an opening in the rocks, and when the boat was within a few
yards of it the men paused in obedience to a signal from the steersman.
Then, watching the rise and fall of the waves, they dashed forward at
the proper moment through the opening ten or twelve feet wide, and were
borne into the smooth water of the little harbor. There is a wider
entrance farther to the north, but it is rendered dangerous by several
sunken rocks, and the narrow one is generally used by the boatmen.
[Illustration: FRONT OF AN EASTERN SUMMER-HOUSE.]
"This harbor is mentioned several times in Scripture," said Doctor
Bronson, while the boatmen were waiting the proper moment to enter. "It
was here that Hiram, King of Tyre, sent ships laden with wood from
Lebanon for the use of King Solomon in building his temple at Jerusalem,
and some of the apostles, when they went out to preach the gospel
through the world, sailed away from Jaffa or Joppa, as it was then
called. According to tradition, the prophet Jonah sailed from Joppa just
before he was swallowed by the whale. And there is another tradition
that Andromeda was chained to the rocks at the entrance of the harbor,
in order that a sea-monster might devour her. The correctness of this
latter tradition was maintained until the sixteenth century by the
exhibition of the chains and rings by which she was held."
[Illustration: ONE OF THE DRAGOMEN.]
Doctor Bronson saved himself a wrangle with the boatmen by putting his
party in the care of the _commissionnaire_ of the hotel where he was
going, and asking him to arrange everything. This plan is advisable for
all travellers arriving at Jaffa, and they are also recommended to pay
no attention to the dragomen that crowd around them on the ship, and
desire to make contracts for accompanying the strangers to Jerusalem.
Wait till you get on shore, and don't make a bargain in a hurry.
The _commissionnaire_ attended to the baggage of the party, paid the
customary fees to the boatmen and the officials of the Custom-house, and
then escorted the strangers to the Jerusalem Hotel, which is, or was at
that time, the best hotel in the place. It is a short distance out of
the town, and in the German colony; its proprietor, a German, was the
vice-consul of the United States of America, and his official position
enabled him to be of service to travellers from beyond the Atlantic.
Through his recommendation our friends were joined by three other
Americans who wished to make the tour of the Holy Land, and the rate for
a party of six would be less for each person than if it consisted of
half that number, or even four or five.
Negotiations were begun immediately. Several contractors wished to be
engaged, and the choice fell on a Syrian named Ali Solomon, or Solyman,
who was strongly recommended both by the consul and by those who had
previously employed him. After considerable bargaining the following
terms were agreed upon:
The contractor, or dragoman, was to provide all requisites for the
journey. There were to be three double tents--one for every two
persons--servants, beds, food, English saddles, horses for riding and
carrying the baggage. He was to engage sufficient escort when needed,
and pay all fees and backsheesh of every kind, except when the party
visited churches, convents, and the like. Whenever the party stopped in
hotels or convents, instead of remaining in camp, he was to pay for
their food and lodging. The horses were to be sound and kind, and if any
of them became disabled the dragoman was to provide proper substitutes
free of extra charge. The party could go where it pleased, change its
route as often as it liked, select its own day for leaving any city or
town, and, if the contract was closed anywhere but in Jaffa, the
dragoman was to have a fair allowance for the return journey. In case of
dispute, the matter could be referred to the American or any other
consul at the most convenient point.
While on the road the food should consist of coffee or tea in the
morning, with eggs and bread-and-butter; luncheon at noon, of chicken
or other cold meat, eggs, bread, cheese, and fruit; and dinner should be
as good as the hotel dinner. In Jerusalem the party should choose for
itself the hotel where it would stop.
In consideration of the above, each person of the party was to pay
twenty francs, or sixteen English shillings ($4) per day. One-third of
the money was to be paid before starting, one-third when the journey was
half over, and the balance on the return to Jaffa, or the discharge of
the dragoman at some other point.[6]
[6] The above is the contract, with some slight change of phrases, that
was made by the party of six of which the author was a member when he
visited the Holy Land. It should be remarked that it was not in the
height of the travelling season, and consequently the terms were lower
than usual. A party of six or more can generally secure everything as
above stated for twenty-five francs (twenty shillings) each person
daily. The tourist agencies charge thirty shillings per day, and require
the whole amount to be paid in advance, and they generally manage to
bring in a large bill for "extras" at the end of the journey. An
excellent form of contract can be found in Baedeker's "Hand-book for
Palestine and Syria."
There is not much to be seen in Jaffa, and it was decided to start in
the afternoon and spend the night at Ramleh, nine miles away. While the
dragoman went to bring horses for the travellers to ride, our friends
went out to "do" Jaffa. Dinner was to be served at one o'clock, and they
were to be on the road a couple of hours later.
They visited the house of Simon the Tanner--or, rather, one of the
several houses which claim that distinction--mentioned in the New
Testament (Acts ix. 43). It is well to remark here that all through the
Holy Land the locations of houses, tombs, and other places of scriptural
or other historic interest, are frequently changed. In regard to the
house of Simon the Tanner, at Jaffa, it is said that its location
depends somewhat on the liberality of the owner or tenant toward the
guides who conduct strangers about the town. The Latin convent is
claimed to be on the site of the house, and so is a small mosque near
the light-house. The Christian guides generally conduct strangers to the
former spot, while the Moslems indicate the latter. There is no reason
to believe that any part of the original house is in existence.
[Illustration: JOPPA.]
A walk through the bazaars, a visit to an orange-grove, and a narrow
escape from being trampled in the mud by a line of camels in a narrow
street, completed the inspection of the ancient Joppa. One of the most
interesting features to Frank and Fred were the heaps of oranges piled
in the market-place. Jaffa is famous all through the Levant for its
oranges, which are an important article of export; and in the season
when they ripen there is a very large trade in this delicious fruit.
Our friends bought a dozen for two or three cents, and pronounced them
the finest oranges they had ever seen.
[Illustration: A SECOND-CLASS HORSE.]
When they returned to the hotel they found some forty or more horses
from which they were to make their selection. Half an hour was spent in
trying the steeds and the saddles on their backs, and when this
operation was ended the rejected horses were led away, while the
selected ones were fastened in front of the hotel at the Doctor's
suggestion. Some of the owners wanted to take the horses away, in order
to feed them before their departure for Ramleh; but the Doctor ended the
discussion by saying that any desired nourishment could be given where
the animals were standing.
"It is a common trick," said he to the boys, "to change the horses after
you have made your selection. We have picked out good horses, and I
think we shall be satisfied with them; these fellows would very likely
bring us animals of the same color and general appearance, and we should
find them vicious, weak, bad in gait, or with some other defects. We
will keep our horses directly under our eyes till we are away from here;
when we are once on the road they are not likely to try the substitution
trick."
"But wouldn't they tell you so, if they had changed the horses?" said
one of the boys.
"Not a bit of it," answered the Doctor, with a laugh. "They would
declare there had been no change whatever; and as we would not be
familiar with the horses after seeing them only once, we would not be
certain of the deception till too late to rectify it."
"What dreadful story-tellers they must be!" was the very natural comment
on the Doctor's assertion.
"Yes," he responded; "and do you know how they account for it
themselves?"
Neither of the youths had ever heard the explanation, and so the Doctor
gave it.
"The Arabs say that when the Father of Lies came on earth to distribute
his goods he had nine bagfuls. He spread one bag of lies in Europe, and
then started for Asia and Africa. He landed in Egypt one evening,
intending to scatter a bagful over that country and Syria, and then go
on the next day to Asia; but while he slept the Arabs stole all his
remaining stock, and distributed it among themselves. This accounts for
the great difficulty they have in telling the truth."
"This propensity among them," continued the Doctor, "is practically
universal, as an Arab who can tell the straightforward truth is very
difficult to find. If you ask a question of an Arab, and he has no
interest in deceiving you, he may possibly give you the correct answer
if he happens to know it, though he is by no means sure to do so; if he
does not know the answer, he will give you the first that his
imagination suggests, and he would be very much surprised if you told
him he had done wrong."
As soon as dinner was over the travellers arranged their baggage, each
of them packing what clothing and other things he wanted in a valise or
bag, and leaving the trunks to be kept till their return, or sent up the
coast to Beyroot, according to the instructions they would send from
Jerusalem to the keeper of the hotel. Each of them carried a suit of
clothing in addition to the one he was wearing--an overcoat, a
mackintosh, or light rubber coat, for rainy weather, and a limited
supply of under-garments, socks, handkerchiefs, and other necessities of
every-day life. The dragoman said that almost anything they would want
could be bought in Jerusalem, and there was no use in carrying things
along simply on the ground that they might possibly be needed. Frank and
Fred remembered the previous injunctions of the Doctor about travelling
in "light marching order," and reduced their baggage to a very low
condition.
All was ready before three o'clock, and they were off for their first
ride in the Holy Land.
[Illustration: THE CITY GATE OF JAFFA.]
There was a little restiveness among the horses at starting, and it
threatened, at one time, very serious results to the riders of the
animals. Evidently they had not been very actively employed for the past
few days. The Doctor said their freshness would wear away before they
had gone far into the country, and the principal thing to do was to keep
them from injuring any of the party or doing harm to themselves. At the
suggestion of Ali, Frank and Fred put their horses to a gallop for a
couple of miles, and the exercise had a visible effect in reducing the
liveliness of the steeds.
The boys were well satisfied with their horses, which were full of
spirit, and very easy under the saddle. Frank said he intended to see if
he could not get up a friendship with his horse, but the Doctor told him
it would be of little use to do so, as the horses of Palestine are
changed around so often among tourists that they do not have an
opportunity for becoming intimately acquainted with any of their riders.
The youth soon after abandoned the attempt when his horse tried to bite
him, and contented himself with treating the animal kindly, and holding
him well in check whenever there was any manifestation of temper.
[Illustration: WOMEN AT A WELL.]
Until they got clear of the town the road was anything but agreeable,
as it was paved with mud and otherwise encumbered. Orange groves were
all around them for quite a distance, and the general aspect of the
place was pleasing. They passed near a well where several women were
engaged in filling their water-jars, after the manner recorded in
Scripture. The boys realized the fidelity of the descriptions they had
read in their Sunday-school days, and Frank remarked that evidently the
East had changed very little in many of its features since the time of
Christ.
Frank thought the dress of the women was very picturesque, and the
flowing robes reminded him of the outer garments of the women of Japan.
Fred said he could understand why the women of Syria had such graceful
figures; there could be no stooping or bending forward when one was
carrying a jar of water on her head. He thought it would not be a bad
plan if some of the American schools for young women would adopt the
plan of having their pupils walk with slight weights on their heads, so
as to teach them the value of an erect position.
From Jaffa to Ramleh the country is flat or slightly undulating; most of
it appears quite fertile, but there are numerous spots so deeply covered
with sand that they are unfit for cultivation. There are some villages
along or near the road; but, on the whole, the population is quite
scattered, and the country could support more inhabitants than it has at
present.
A couple of miles out from Jaffa the party halted a few minutes in order
to tighten some of the saddle-girths, which had worked loose, and to
arrange a few other matters about the travelling-gear. As the incident
of the well was fresh in the minds of the youths they spoke of it, and
the time of the halt was utilized by the Doctor in a short lecture upon
the wells of the Holy Land.
"In most parts of Palestine," said he, "the water is very scarce, and
the possession of a spring or permanent stream is a matter of great
importance. Fierce fights have occurred for the ownership of springs,
and sometimes the feuds that have arisen from this cause have lasted
hundreds of years. The existence of a fine spring has often determined
the site of a town or village, and every precaution is exercised to
prevent the waste of the precious liquid.
[Illustration: PUBLIC FOUNTAIN AT JERUSALEM.]
"For public uses the water is made to flow into a fountain, with a stone
trough in front of it. The women go to the fountain to fill their jars
from the stream that flows through the stone, and the horses and cattle
are driven there to drink from the trough. If from any cause the spring
dries up there is great distress, and if there is no other water in the
immediate neighborhood the site of the village or town must be
abandoned. Many of the ruined towns which we find in Palestine to-day
were given to desolation in consequence of the drying up of springs or
streams.
[Illustration: ONE OF THE WELLS OF BEERSHEBA, WITH ITS
WATERING-TROUGHS.]
"The scarcity of running water led to the digging of wells, and we find
them mentioned in the earliest books of the Bible. There are many wells
of this sort in the country, and some of them are thousands of years
old. We read in Genesis of the wells that were dug by Abraham and his
descendants, where the flocks were watered. The wells of Beersheba which
were made by the servants of Isaac (Gen. xxvi. 32, 33) can be seen
to-day, and the stone watering-troughs from which the flocks drank are
where they have stood for thousands of years. In some of the ancient
wells there are stone steps leading down to the water, while in others
the water was drawn to the surface by means of buckets at the ends of
ropes. The ropes made deep channels in the stone where they rubbed
against it. Some of the wells have been dry for hundreds of years, but
the stones that surround them remain undisturbed.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF A CISTERN.]
"Where there are no running streams or springs, and the nature of the
ground does not favor the digging of wells, the people rely upon
cisterns to supply their wants. A cistern is simply a large excavation
in the earth or rock; if in the former, it is lined with stone and
cement to make it water-proof, but if it is hewn in the solid rock no
such precaution is necessary. Water is collected here during the rainy
season and treasured up for use in the dry summer. Some of the cisterns
are of great extent, and will hold water sufficient for great numbers of
people during several months. They are found all through the country;
and even where there is a stream of water the whole year round it is
often the custom to keep cisterns filled with water, to guard against an
unusual drought. Some of the cities of the East have vast cisterns
beneath them, and if you ever go to Constantinople you will see the
cistern of 'The Thousand and One Pillars,' which gets its name from the
number of columns that support the roof.
[Illustration: CISTERN UNDER THE TEMPLE OF JERUSALEM.]
"There is a cistern under the Temple of Jerusalem," continued the
Doctor, "that was hewn from the solid rock. Portions of the rock were
left standing to form a support for the temple, and they have performed
their work so well that no part has ever given way."
As the Doctor paused it was announced that the horses were ready, and in
a few minutes the cavalcade was again in motion.
A tower on the right of the road attracted the attention of the youths.
The Doctor told them it was the station of a watchman, and that it was
his duty to guard the fields and vineyards from depredations by men or
beasts, and to preserve order along the road.
"There are eighteen of these towers," said he, "between Jaffa and
Jerusalem, about two miles apart, and the men in them are supposed to
have control of the road, and to protect travellers from danger. The
watch-tower is an institution of the East, and its use dates from a very
early period."
"Yes," replied one of the boys; "I have read about watch-towers in the
Bible, and we saw in Egypt how watchmen were stationed to guard the
fields in ancient times the same as they guard them now."
"You will find them referred to many times in the Bible," was the reply,
"and there has been no change in the custom. If you want to refresh your
memory on the subject read the fifty-second chapter of Isaiah, and you
will find a description that might have been written yesterday instead
of many centuries ago."
Over the undulating plain of Sharon our friends continued their journey,
passing groves of olive and orange trees, fields of grain, and
occasional stretches of barren ground. In places the route was shaded by
sycamore and cypress trees, and the fields were protected by hedges of
cactus. A well-grown hedge of this plant makes an excellent fence, as it
is impervious to man or beast, and it flourishes admirably in the soil
of Palestine.
From the third watch-station the town of Ramleh was visible, with a huge
tower rising over it. The view was very pretty, as Ramleh is situated in
the midst of luxuriant groves and orchards of olives and sycamores
interspersed with palm-trees.
As they neared the town one of the horses became restive, and made a
dash for a cactus hedge. He regretted his imprudence when the sharp
spines of the plant entered his hide, and stopped so short that he
narrowly missed throwing his rider over his head and into the thorny
bushes. The other horses shared in the excitement, and for a few moments
there was a scene of confusion among them. Happily no accident resulted,
and the party entered Ramleh at a dignified pace.