Massinger puts forth a curious test of these provocatives:--

"I asked

Such an unexpected dainty bit for breakfast

As never yet I cooked; 'tis red _botargo_,

Fried frogs, potatoes marroned, _cavear_,

Carps' tongues, the pith of an English chine of beef,

Now one Italian delicate wild mushroom,

And yet a drawer on too; and if you show not

An appetite, and a strong one, I'll not say

To eat it, but devour it, without grace too,

For it will not stay a preface. I am shamed,

And all my past provocatives will be jeered at."

Ben Jonson affords us many a glimpse of the drinking habits of all

classes in his day.

After the Restoration, England seems to have abandoned herself to one

great saturnalia, and men drank deeply, from the king down. The novels

of Fielding and Smollett are full of the wildest debauchery and

drunken extravagance. Statesmen drank deep at their councils, ladies

drank in their boudoirs, the criminal on his way to Tyburn stopped to

drink a parting glass. Hogarth in his wonderful pictures has held the

mirror up to society to show how general was the shame, how terrible

the curse.

In Germany the _Baierisch bier_, drunk out of _biergläschen_

ornamented as they are with engraved wreaths, "_Zum Andenken_," "_Aus

Freundschaft_," and other little bits of national harmless sentiment,

has come down from the remotest antiquity, and has never failed to

provoke quiet and decorous, if sleepy hilarity.

We are afraid that the "Dew of Ben Nevis" is not so peaceful, nor the

juice of the juniper, nor New England rum, nor the _aquadiente_ of the

Mexican, nor the _vodka_ of the Russian. All these have the most

terrible wild madness in them. To the honour of civilization, it is no

longer the fashion to drink to excess. The vice of drunkenness rarely

meets the eye of a refined woman; and let us hope that less and less

may it be the bane of society, the disgrace of the art of

entertaining.

The Art of Entertaining · 第 77 / 102 题