|Hours|G. miles | Bearings | Lat. by | Country.
| | direct. |by compass.| observ. |
--------------+-----+---------+-----------+-----------+--------------
Kooniakarryto | — | — | — | 14° 34′ }|
| | | | }|
Soomo | — | 17 | SE ½ E | }|
| | | | }| Kasson
Kanjee | — | 17 | Do. | 14° 10′ }|
| | | | }|
Leekarago | — | 8 | Easterly | }|
| | | | |
Feesurah | — | 14 | E by S | 14° 5′ }|
| | | | }|
Karancalla | — | 18 | Easterly | }|
| | | | }|
Kemmoo | — | 8 | E by N | }|
| | | | }| Kaarta
Marina | — | 13 | Northerly | }|
| | | | }|
Toordah | — | 8 | Do. | }|
| | | | }|
Funingkeddy | — | 12 |N by E ½ E | }|
| | | | |
Simbing | — | 16 | N by E | }|
| | | | }| Ludamar
Jarra | — | 2 | NNE | 15° 5′ }|
]
[Footnote 71:
Equal to 144 min. of longitude; whence Joag being
by account in long. 9° 12
Add 144 min. 2 24
-----
Long. of Jarra, by Mr. Park’s original calculation 6 48
]
[Footnote 72: Mr. Carmichael came within 6 or 7 degrees in the
bearing between Aleppo and Bussorah, on a distance of 720 British
miles. But the advantages were prodigiously in his favour; the road
being straight, the country open, and the camel walking an equable
pace. (See Phil. Trans. for 1791.)]
[Footnote 73:
----------+-------+-------++-------------------------+-------+-------
| Diff. | Diff. || | N. | E.
|Lat. S.|Lon. E.|| | |
----------+-------+-------++-------------------------+-------+-------
JARRA to | | ||Doolinkeaboo | 7 | 24
| | || | |
Queira | 11′ | 25′ ||Diggani§ | 19 | 8
| | || | |
Sherilla | 14 | 40 ||Seracorro | 5 | 9
| | || | |
Dama | 11 | 4 ||SEGO | 6 | 3
| | || +-------+-------
Wawra | 5 | 8 ||Lat. by account 13° 4′ }| |
| | || }| 121 S | 281 E
Dingyee | — | 7 ||Diff. lon. 4° 41′ E }| |
| | || +-------+-------
Wassiboo‖ | — | 7 ||Sansanding | 10 N | 15 E
| | || | |
Satile | 18 | 31 ||Sibiti | — | 7
| | || | |
Galloo | 1 | 21 ||Nyara | 3 | 16
+-------+ || | |
Moorja | 4 N | 14 ||Modiboo | 3 | 19
+-------+ || | |
Datiliboo | 9 S | 38 ||Silla | 2 | 12
| | || +-------+-------
Fanimboo | 12 | 24 ||Lat. by account 13° 22′ }| |
| | || }| 18 N | 69 E
Jiosorra | 7 | 18 ||Diff. lon. 1° 9′ E }| |
No variation was allowed in this calculation.]
[Footnote 74: Original bearings between Wassiboo‖ and Diggani.§
--+-------------+--------+--------------+--
| Places. | Dist. | Bearings. |
+-------------+--------+--------------+
|Wassiboo to | | |
| | | |
|Satile | 30 | SE b E |
| | | |
|Galloo | 20 | ESE |
| | | |
|Moorja | 15 | E b N |
| | | |
|Datiliboo | 25 | SE b E |
| | | |
|Fanimboo | 35 | ESE |
| | | |
|Jiosorra | 20 | ESE |
| | | |
|Doolinkeaboo | 15 | SE b E |
| | | |
|Lions | 18 | SE b S |
| | | |
|[a]Diggani | 7 | South |
| | | |
]
[Footnote a: On working these bearings over again, it appeared that
Mr. Park had made a mistake; and thence inferred a wrong position for
Diggani, Sego, &c. in his table of latitudes and longitudes. I mention
this, to shew that he has acted fairly, in exposing his whole process;
and even his errors.]
[Footnote 75: This being equal to 4° 47′ difference of longitude,
Sego, by Mr. Park’s reckoning, would lie in 2° 1′ west of
Greenwich.]
[Footnote 76: The informant might possibly be influenced by the
bearing of _that portion_ of the road _nearest_ to him, which is more
_easterly_ than the part towards Sego.]
[Footnote 77: It may not be known to the generality of readers, that,
in the former part of this century, Tombuctoo was as much the object
of geographical research amongst the French, as it has been of late
with the English. D’Anville was particularly anxious about it, as
may be seen in the Mem. of the Academy of Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 73.]
CHAPTER IV.
_The Construction of the Geography continued._
At Silla, Mr. Park was informed that Tombuctoo was yet fourteen
journies of the caravan distant from him; and these he has calculated
at 200 G. miles only, in a direct line from Silla; as it appears
that a bend in the course of the river, prevents a direct line of
route towards it. As to the bearing, he unfortunately could not,
as at Jarra, obtain a consistent account of it. The natives always
pointed _along the general course of the river_; although, as it
may be supposed, it occasionally deviated to the right and left. It
has been seen, in the bearing of Sego, how nearly it was given by
judgment; but then the two cases differ very widely. The route is
entirely by _land_, from _Jarra_ to _Sego_, by which the idea of the
general line of direction is better preserved, than when broken into
so many small parts, by a _river navigation_, the more ordinary mode
of communication (as it appears) between Silla and Tombuctoo. There
were, no doubt, people, could Mr. Park have been able to meet with
them, who having made the journey by land, could have furnished him
with better information: but the reader, who already knows under
what suspicious circumstances Mr. Park travelled in this quarter,
will easily conceive that he was precluded from any communication
with _those_, who alone could have given the information: that is,
the _Moorish merchants_, and their dependants.
The bearing of Tombuctoo from Benowm, was pointed out to Mr. Park,
by a merchant of some consideration, who had resided at Walet, and had
visited both Tombuctoo and Houssa. But the _exceeding great distance_
of Tombuctoo and Benowm, (it being nearly twice the distance of Sego
from Jarra), will not admit such a degree of confidence in the report,
as to allow it to _supersede_ all other authorities, however it may
_aid_ the task of approximating the position. But, notwithstanding,
it will appear, that on the whole, it coincides most wonderfully with
the other _data_.
The bearing in question, pointed out at different times, was commonly E
by S, by compass: and Mr. Park never found his informant vary more than
half a point, which was to the southward; or E by S ½ S. But the idea
left on his mind, was E by S; which, allowing 17 degrees variation,
is about east half north; or more correctly, E 5¾ N. And hence,
admitting the distance of 200 G. miles between Silla and Tombuctoo,
which supposes a space of about 500 such miles between Benowm and
Tombuctoo, this latter would fall at about 50 minutes of latitude
northward from Benowm (whose parallel is the same with that of Jarra,
15° 5′), and consequently in 15° 55′. The _obliquity_ of the
intermediate meridians, might increase the parallel some minutes,
and we may call it roundly 16°.
Such then was the received opinion at Benowm, concerning the _parallel_
of Tombuctoo: for, it will appear, that the distance on the _Rhumb_,
which determines the difference of latitude, cannot be taken lower,
than has been stated.
If the _general course_ of the Joliba, after its escape from the
mountains, may be admitted to have any weight in the determination of
the question (since Mr. Park says, that they always pointed _along
it_, to express the line of direction, in which Tombuctoo lay),
this will point to a higher parallel, by about half a degree, than
the bearing from Benowm; that is to 16½ degrees. And, it may be
remarked, that the difference between these results falls yet short
of what would have arisen on an error of 5 degrees in the bearing;
such as was experienced in that of Sego from Jarra.
Mr. Park was informed whilst at Benowm, that Walet, the capital of
Beeroo, was ten journies distant, and this latter eleven journies short
of Tombuctoo. According to Mr. Park’s information, Walet stands at
about 240 G. miles, to the eastward of Benowm; (which would require no
less than 24 such miles per day, and appears out of rule, unless meant
for journies of _couriers_, which is possible enough.) But what is most
to our point, is, that by the information he received, concerning the
position of Walet, it appears to lie from Benowm, in the same line
of direction which points to Tombuctoo, when placed in 16½. Now,
as Walet lies in the shortest route from Benowm to Tombuctoo, one
might infer, of course, that it lies also the _nearest_ to the line
of direction towards Tombuctoo, of any of the places pointed out:
and, I confess, I am strongly inclined to adopt the highest parallel,
on this very account.
These alone, are the authorities for the position of Tombuctoo, derived
from Mr. Park’s observations and inquiries; and which differ, as
we have seen, no more than half a degree in the parallel: that is,
from 16°, to 16°½. The reader may recollect, that these are very
far indeed to the southward of those assigned to it, by M. D’Anville
and myself, in former publications; as we mistook its position so far,
as to place it between 19°, and 20°.
Before I proceed to state the authorities for its position,
derived from the northern stations, it will be proper to compare
the calculation of distance made by Mr. Park, with the reports of
merchants and travellers; in order finally to deduce the longitude
of Tombuctoo from the west; and afford a fair ground of comparison,
between the authorities from the opposite quarters.
It has appeared that Sego, _according to Mr. Park’s calculation_,
falls in latitude 14° 10′, longitude 2° 1′ west of Greenwich:
and accordingly, the direct distance between it and Medina, the
capital of Woolli, will be by this account 618 G. miles. Now, the
merchants reckon 36 journies between them. The daily rate between
Fezzan and Egypt having come out by construction 16,3[78] per day,
on 53 days, and about 16¼ between Morocco and Jarra, on 50 days,
I may venture to assume the highest of the two rates on 36 days;
and this gives about 587, or only 31 short of Mr. Park’s result.
Again, between Fort St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, M. D’Anville
(Mem. Insc. Vol. xxvi. p. 73.) allows 240 French leagues. These
are rated at 2,64 G. miles, or 23¾ to a degree, on his scale;
consequently there results a distance of 634 G. miles. M. Lalande
(Afrique, p. 23.) allows 250 leagues, which give about 660 miles. Ben
Ali went from St. Joseph to Tombuctoo, by way of Tisheet and Aroan,
in forty-eight days. The detour may be taken at eight days more than
the direct road (for Mr. Park furnishes the positions of Tisheet
and Aroan very satisfactorily), whence 40 remain, which at 16,3,
produce 652 miles.
Lastly, although the following be a very vague kind of computation,
it may not altogether be useless. Major Houghton’s guide undertook
to carry him to Tombuctoo, from Ferbanna in Bambouk, and to return
again in ninety days. Ferbanna is much about the same distance, as
St. Joseph, from Tombuctoo. Perhaps no more than ten days can well
be allowed for rest and refreshment, and then forty days will be the
length of the journey.
The mean of the three first reports, is about 649: and on the Map,
the space between St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, according to Mr. Park’s
result, is 667, or 18 more.
There is then, a difference of 31 only, on the accounts between Woolli
and Sego: 18, between St. Joseph and Tombuctoo; both pointing to an
excess, on the part of our traveller. I am however far from offering
these results, on the ground of inducing a belief that such _small
differences_ can be _ascertained_ by such _coarse_ materials; but
rather to shew that in the general scope of the authorities, there
was more of coincidence, than of disagreement, if the circumstances
are rightly appreciated.
As it appears, however, that Mr. Park and Major Houghton formed
different estimates of the distance between Medina and the river
Falemé; and that the former exceeds by about 36 miles; and moreover,
that on Mr. Park’s return by the southern route, he found by the
number and scale of his journies, that he had allowed too great an
extent to the space between the rivers Falemé and Gambia; I say, it
clearly appears that an excess may be admitted in this part. It may
be added, that, according to the report of the African travellers,
at Pisania, concerning the arrangement of the journies, there is an
excess on the west of Kasson; whilst the space on the east of it,
agrees pretty well. Or, strictly speaking, perhaps the space is
a _little under_-rated on the east, and _much over_-rated on the
west. If the mean of the differences between Pisania and Tombuctoo,
Fort St. Joseph and Tombuctoo, 31, and 18, that is, 24 miles be taken
off, the result will be satisfactory; as it agrees pretty well with
the excess found in the southern route, on Mr. Park’s return.
This naturally leads me to the discussion of the position of Fort
St. Joseph, as a point connecting the upper and lower part of the
Senegal river: or in other words, the routes of the French, _below_,
with those of the English, in the _interior_ of the country.
The French report concerning this position also points to an excess
of distance from the westward; even more than that arising from the
difference between Mr. Park’s reckoning and the reports of the
merchants; for it amounts to about 37 miles.
Could it be ascertained that a measured survey of the Senegal river,
to the height of Fort St. Joseph, had been taken, as Labat says
(Vol. ii. p. 157.) was actually done, by the order of the Sieur Brüe,
this would settle the matter at once. But _cursory_ surveys have so
often been called _actual_ and _measured_ ones, that one must be in
possession of better authority, before the survey of the Senegal river
can be relied on, as an absolute measure of distance. Nor is there,
in the list of places in the _Con. de Temps_, any intimation of the
longitude of St. Joseph by triangles, or measurement. Here follows
a statement of the means used in fixing the position of this place.
M. D’Anville, in his map of the Senegal and Gambia rivers (1751)
places St. Joseph 7° 44′ east of Ferro, which being in 17° 37′
west of Greenwich, Fort St. Joseph should be in 9° 53′. This is
32′ to the west of the position arising on Mr. Park’s route;
which gives 9° 21′. But M. D’Anville supposes a difference of
longitude of 6° 9′ 15″ only, between Fort St. Louis, at the mouth
of the Senegal river, and Fort St. Joseph: and as I have followed
M. Fleurieu’s ideas in placing St. Louis in 16° 8′ longitude,
St. Joseph of course falls in 9° 59′, rejecting the seconds; making
a difference of 37 G. miles, or 38 min. from Mr. Park; that is, 13
miles more than the mean of the differences between the authorities
for the position of Tombuctoo.[79]
It is obvious, that as neither St. Louis nor Jillifrey, are exactly
determined, in respect of Cape Verd, or of each other, it would be
idle to attempt a critical adjustment of them; and therefore I have
adopted the position arising from Mr. Park’s route, corrected by
24 miles, or 25 min. of longitude, more to the west; so that Fort
St. Joseph stands in the map in lon. 9° 46′, lat. 14° 34′.
In consequence of this correction, all the eastern positions, Joag,
Jarra, Sego, &c. must of course _recede_ 25 minutes to the westward of
the arrangement heretofore made, on the construction of Mr. Park’s
geographical materials. Hence I place
Joag, in 9° 37′ west, instead of 9° 12′
Jarra, in 7 13 ---------- 6 48
Sego, in 2 26 ---------- 2 1
Silla, in 1 24 ---------- 0 59
And Tombuctoo, in 1 33 east, ------ 1 58[80]
I now proceed to state the reports of the distance to Tombuctoo,
from the NW, N, and NE.
From Tatta[81] on the southern frontier of Morocco, 9½ journies to
the SSE of the capital, (equal to 157 G. miles) the distance is 50
journies of the caravan, according to Mr. Matra.
From Mourzouk, the capital of Fezzan, (taken to be in latitude 27°
48′ and longitude 15° 3′ east, or directly south of Mesurata),
64 journies, according to the report of Ben Ali. And from Tunis,
77 journies, through Kabes and Gadamis, according to Mr. Magrah.
On the route between Mourzouk and Cairo, as well as between Morocco
and Jarra, it has been already stated (p. xxxviii), that 16,3 and
16,25 were the mean rates: and the former was accordingly adopted
between Woolli and Sego. At the same rate, the 50 days from Tatta,
give 815 G. miles, and the 59½ from Morocco, 970. The 64 from Mourzouk
give 1043; and the 77 from Tunis, 1255.
Now the above assumed position of Tombuctoo, falls exactly at the
given distance from Morocco through Tatta; and 18 short of that from
Fezzan (Mourzouk); but 61 beyond that from Tunis. The coincidence
therefore of the three lines of distance from the Gambia, from
Morocco and Fezzan, may be regarded as complete, since, in using the
same rate nearly across the whole continent of Africa, from Cape
Verd to Egypt, a difference of 18 miles only, arises. And hence,
the public mind may well be satisfied at present respecting this
important position. Whichsoever of the two determinations may be
right, is of little consequence: but I hold it to be more prudent
to adhere to that line which is the result of computation in detail,
and corrected as above, than to the long lines given in the aggregate,
and in which there is more risk of error. And thus I close the subject
of the position of Tombuctoo; placing it in latitude 16° 30′,
longitude 1° 33′ east of Greenwich.
Something, however, is proper to be said, concerning the rate of
travelling adopted on the present occasion, as it differs materially
from that allowed on long lines of distance, in the Proceedings of
the Association, in 1790. I there allowed 16½ for a single day,
but, diminished the rate according to the _length_ of the lines of
distance. It would appear that the proportion of diminution allowed,
although proper enough in countries, where obstacles interpose to
change the line of direction, is not applicable to that part of Africa,
where the great Deserts are crossed in so straight a line, as hardly
to increase the _simple_ winding, arising on each day’s course, in
any considerable degree; and that even the _simple_ winding is less
than elsewhere. And hence 16¼, or more, arises on the camel routes,
on long lines of distance, across the Desert; and on the pilgrims’
routes, where it appears the camels travel with light burthens. It was
through misconception of this rate, that I placed Tombuctoo, so far
to the north. I am ignorant of the cause of M. D’Anville’s error.
The particulars of the geography between Silla and Tombuctoo,
are copied exactly from Mr. Park’s map; and require but little
elucidation. Jinné, a large town, is two short journies below Silla:
and Tombuctoo, twelve still lower down. It would appear that all the
journies were conceived to be _short_, as Mr. Park allows only 200
G. miles for the aggregate of the 14.
Two days below Jinné, the Joliba expands itself into a considerable
lake, already mentioned by the name of Dibbie; from whence the river
again issues in a number of streams. These unite at a lower point,
and then form _two_ large branches, which separating widely from each
other, form an island near 100 miles in length, whose name being
Ginbala, or Jinbala, we recognize in it, the Guinbala country of
M. D’Anville; as in the northern branch of the river that bounds
it, the river of Guin, mistaken by him for the original head of the
Tombuctoo river (or Niger); as he also mistook the lake of Dibbie
for that of the Senegal river. Such were the errors in the African
geography, to the date of the AFRICAN ASSOCIATION: one of which errors
conducted the _Senegal_ river through 500 miles of the space which is,
in reality, occupied by the _Niger_.
The position of Houssa will be adjusted in the map of Africa.
The important station of Tombuctoo, being adjusted, together with the
positions dependent on it, I proceed with Mr. Park, on his return by
the south, to his original point of outset in the west: taking it up
at Sego, by which he passed in his way.
Along this line, an account of the bearings by compass was kept,
as well as circumstances would permit, until the instrument was
rendered useless, by robbers, near Sibidooloo. This was, however,
the most important part of the route, as it lay along the side of the
Joliba, the knowledge of whose course is, by this means, prolonged
to about 350 British miles. Mr. Park moreover committed to paper,
a tracing of its general windings; and obtained notices respecting
the place of its source, during his long residence at Kamaliah,
in the country of Manding, (commonly called Mandinga.)
Kamaliah is about 40 G. miles SW of Sibidooloo;[82] and to this place
Mr. Park contrived to extend his line of bearings from Sego. He also
learnt, that Jarra lay ten journies to the north-westward of Kamaliah;
which agrees satisfactorily to the result from Sego, as it leaves 154
G. miles, for the ten journies; and Kamaliah itself falls in lat. 12°
46′; 227½ from Sego, in a direction of W 21 S; corrected by the
allowance of 17° variation.
The town of Bammako, where the Joliba first becomes navigable
(or perhaps to which point it is navigable upwards, in a continuous
course from Tombuctoo), lies about fifty miles short of Kamaliah.[83]
It is reckoned by the natives, ten journies only from Sego.[84]
At Kamaliah the source of the Joliba (or Niger), was pointed out to
Mr. Park, at a bearing of south, a very little west, seven journies
distant; and for these, he allows 108 G. miles. The name of the
place is Sankary, and seems meant by the Songo of D’Anville; which,
however, he supposed to be at the source of the Gambia river, in the
kingdom of Mandinga. Such were the crude ideas heretofore entertained
of this geography.
Here it may be proper to mention, that Mr. Park, whilst at Kooniakarry,
in Kasson, in his way out, meditated a route to the south-eastward,
through Kasson, Fooladoo, and Manding; which route was to have brought
him to the Joliba in twenty days. The place on the Joliba is not
mentioned: possibly it might be Yamina. This route, however, he was
not permitted to take. Had he pursued it, his personal sufferings
might probably have been less; but our knowledge of the geography
would probably have been less, also.
It has been mentioned, that the space between Jarra and Kamaliah, is
checked by the report of the road distance between them. It is proper
also to state, as a further proof of the consistency of the respective
positions of Jarra and Kong, that the distance across, agrees generally
with the report of the Shereef Imhammed, who says, that Yarba, (meant
for Yarra, or Jarra,) is eighteen to twenty days journey to the NW
of Gonjah, meaning Kong. (Proc. Af. Assoc. chap. xii.) Mr. Park was
told that Kong, was ten journies to the southward, or SSW of Sego;
and he saw a part of the great ridge of _blue mountains_ of Kong,
as he coasted the Niger westward. These notices agree well with the
Shereef’s report.
Between Kamaliah and Woolli, there is yet a greater degree of
uncertainty respecting the _data_ for the geographical construction;
for in this long line of near 400 geographical miles, the line of
direction is collected from the places of the sun and stars; the
compass being useless, whilst the traveller was in motion. Besides, the
rapidity of the march, and the height of the woods, were unfavourable
to any attempts of that kind, had bodily fatigue and hunger, left
him either the inclination or the ability: for, in effect, it was one
long forced march through the Jallonka Wilderness, under the terrors
of famine, or being left behind to perish, by wild beasts.
Under such circumstances, it was full as much as could reasonably
be expected, to obtain some general idea of the line of direction,
on which he travelled; together with the proportional lengths of
the several intervals, by keeping an account of the time; leaving
the _absolute scale_ to be determined by the extent of the space. In
this, he succeeded so well, that the middle part of the line, when
produced to the capital of Woolli, appears to be no more than half
a point out of the bearing; as is shewn by Labat’s map of Bambouk
(Vol. iv. p. 92), in which the course of the river of Falemé,
which Mr. Park crossed in his way home, as well as out, is described;
and affords much assistance in adjusting his position on that river,
on his return.
It is first necessary to state, that M. D’Anville, in his map of
Senegal, &c. (1751) has totally disregarded the scale of Labat’s map,
as well as most of the bearings in it; having preferred to it some
other authority; perhaps some tracing of the two rivers. M. D’Anville
allows no more than thirty-seven geographical miles between the
two passes Naye and Kayee on the Falemé and Senegal rivers; when
Mr. Park allows sixty-two. Now Labat’s scale agrees with the
latter: for he allows 28¾ French leagues for this interval, equal
to 2,16 geographical miles per league, according to Mr. Park’s
calculation. The leagues were therefore probably of road measure:
as a league in direct distance appears to be equal to 2,64. Hence
M. D’Anville, seems to have misconceived the matter; and has applied
the same erroneous scale to the course of the Falemé river, upwards;
which he has shortened by about twenty-six geographical miles; carrying
that part no higher than to latitude 13°, which by the original
(or rather the proportioned) scale, should be extended to 12° 34′.
This Map of Labat, then, gives the position of Ferbanna on the Falemé
river;[85] as also the southern boundaries of Bondou and Bambouk,
with other particulars. Mr. Park, when at the pass of the Falemé
river, between Satadoo and Medina,[86] obtained some general notices
concerning his position, in respect of the above points. For he learnt
that Ferbanna (Tenda) lay at some distance lower down the river:
that Bondou (by the account of a fellow-traveller who was on his way
thither) lay six journies to the northward; and he learnt also the
general position of Bambouk. To this may be added, that he kept on his
right hand (to the N), and even touched the foot of it at Dindikoo,
a ridge of mountains, answering to that which, in Labat’s map,
crosses the Falemé _above_ Ferbanna; and which is also found precisely
at the corresponding point, with Dindikoo. Moreover, it preserves
in Labat, the same distance from the southern boundary of Bambouk,
as that seen by Park. And finally, it appears, by the description of
the southern route pointed out by the King of Bambouk (see Mem. 1793,
p. 11.), that Mr. Park passed to the _southward_ of Ferbanna, and
yet _not far_ from it. For the king’s road from Ferbanna (Tenda)
led eastward, through Concoudou (the Konkodoo of Park, a province)
as also through Silloumana, Gangaran, Gadou, and Manding. Now there
is every reasonable proof that (bating Ferbanna) this is the very
route by which Mr. Park returned. His route went through Gangaran
(Gankaran), on the one hand, Konkodoo on the other. Sillou-Mana is
very probably intended for Kullo-Manna,[87] a famous pass over the
_Black River_, or main stream of the Senegal, where a bridge of a very
singular construction is thrown across occasionally, for the use of
the caravans. It is unlikely that bridges should occur at _two_ places
in the southern route, and more particularly as the one at Manna is
placed there, because the steep rocky banks, and narrow channel of
the river, are peculiarly adapted to that kind of bridge.
It may therefore be concluded, that from Konkodoo, the king’s road,
instead of turning to the SW to Satadoo, leads straight on to the
westward to Ferbanna, and thence into the Woolli road, either at
Baneserile or Kirwanny; being a branch, only, of the great southern
road, leading directly across the mountains; whilst the other makes a
bend to the south, to avoid them; which bend, according to Mr. Park’s
description of his route, is so much like that in Labat’s map above
Ferbanna, that I cannot help suspecting the Dambanna of Labat to be
meant for the Dindikoo of Mr. Park. I return to the construction of
the route.
Ferbanna, in Labat, is placed 33 leagues on a bearing of S 11° E
from Cacullo, another pass on the same river Falemé, in latitude
13° 54′, by Major Houghton’s observation: and which is about 20
miles south of Naye, where Mr. Park crossed it in his way out. The 33
leagues according to the _proportional_ scale furnished by Mr. Park’s
route (2,16 each) give 71¼ G. miles for the distance of Ferbanna from
Cacullo: or latitude 12° 46′. From this point, Labat describes the
course of the river 24 miles higher up, in a SE by E direction. About
this place, we may suppose that Mr. Park crossed the Falemé on his
return; since it agrees with the circumstances of the mountains,
the bend of the road above described, and the distance of Bambouk
and Bondou; to which may be added, the general accordance of the
bearing from Manding. Medina, a village, stood on the west bank of
the Falemé, at the pass; and Satadoo, the capital of the province, at
two miles to the eastward of it. It is certain that neither Satadoo,
nor Konkodoo, appear in Labat’s map. In that, Macanna is the name
of the country bordering on the south of Bambouk; but Mr. Park calls
it Konkodoo, which means the _country of mountains_; and appears very
characteristic. (These mountains extend through Bambouk and Kasson,
and are productive in gold.) Again, Combregoudou in Labat, occupies
the places of Satadoo and Dentila in Mr. Park’s descriptions: and
we must therefore conclude, that either these countries have more than
one name, or have changed their names in the course of the century.
On the whole, it cannot well be doubted that the adjustment of
the southern route, to the northern, in this place, is tolerably
exact; and it is indeed a matter of the first importance to the
geography. One circumstance is very much in its favour: at Kirwanny
on this route Mr. Park was told, that the course of the Gambia river
lay three journies southward, or one journey within the boundary of
Foota-Jallo: and Dr. Afzelius was informed, that the same river runs
at the distance of four journies from the mountains which skirt the
Rio Grande on the north-east. These notices accord perfectly with
the relative positions of Kirwanny, and the course of the Rio Grande,
which are about 112 G. miles asunder, on the construction.
This adjustment, moreover, goes as well to the proportioning of
the longitudinal distance, on the line between Kamaliah and Woolli,
by means of the course of the river Falemé, extended from a known
point in the northern route.
On Mr. Park’s original map, I find 201 G. miles on that portion of
the southern line, east of the Falemé river; 181 on the west: whilst
the respective intervals on my construction, are 211, and 185. But
Mr. Park observed, that there was a greater portion of distance to be
travelled through, on his return, than he had expected. His reckoning
was, according to the sea phrase, _ahead of the ship_: which was,
no doubt, occasioned by his omitting to take the variation of the
compass into the account, after he had lost his sextant at Jarra.
It appears on the examination of his journal, that between the river
Falemé and Baraconda, in Woolli (a few miles short of Medina),
they employed nine whole days, and part of a tenth; a great part of
which journey lay through the wildernesses of Tenda and Simbani. Six
of the days are remarked to be either _long_ or _very long_: and one
in particular was a _very hard day’s work_. Allowing six miles for
the fraction of the day, the nine whole ones require 19 G. miles of
direct distance, each: and as the road diverged considerably from the
_direct line_ (to the southward, falling in with the Gambia pretty
high up) they may be taken somewhat higher. The five forced marches
through the Jallonka wilderness are also calculated at 19 each, direct:
and which may produce 25 road miles: I should conceive those through
the Tenda and Simbani wildernesses to be equal to 26, at a medium;
and some of them more than 30.[88]
Thus I have brought the grand outline of Mr. Park’s Geography
to a conclusion; and cannot do otherwise than sympathize with him
in his feelings, when he arrived at “_the hospitable door of_
Dr. LAIDLEY,” at Pisania, after an absence of eighteen months,
unheard of, during the whole time; whether enjoying the triumphs of
exploring new paths; whether pining in hopeless captivity, amongst
the barbarous Moors of Jarra; or fostered by the kind hands of
Mandinga Negroes.
* * * * *
It remains that something should be said regarding the connection of
Mr. Park’s Geography with that of Labat, between the rivers Senegal
and Falemé; as well as concerning the positions of the _falls_
of the Senegal river.
Labat’s scale has already been adjusted to Mr. Park’s, in p. xlv,
where 2,16 G. miles were found equivalent to one of Labat’s leagues,
in direct distance.
Kayee, the pass on the Senegal river, where Mr. Park crossed it,
is given at 16⅔ leagues above Fort St. Joseph, in Labat’s Map,
(Vol. iv. p. 92.) and the falls of F’low (Felou in Labat), 5½ still
higher up. Kayee may therefore be taken at 36 miles, and F’low 48,
above St. Joseph; the bearing a _point or more_ to the southward
of east.
F’low is the _lower_ fall, (below which the river continues
navigable generally, to the sea,) and Govinea, the _upper_ fall. The
distance between them is very differently represented, by different
persons; but I believe, is from 12 to 14 leagues, perhaps 30 G. miles,
direct. It is true that Labat says, in more than one place,[89] that
they are 40 leagues asunder; but as his Map (in Vol. iv. p. 92.) has
less than 12 leagues; and as M. P. D. also says (p. 78.) 12 leagues:
and as, moreover, the King of Kasson’s residence is said to be
_midway between_ the two falls; and that residence appearing to be
Kooniakarry, a place visited by Mr. Park; and which is no more than
about 22′ from the lower fall, and at 13′ distant from the north
bank of the river; it cannot well be otherwise than that the two falls
are within 30 G. miles of each other. And hence it may be concluded,
that _quatorze_ and not _quarante_, was in the original manuscript.
The distance between Kooniakarry and the Senegal river, 13 miles,
points to a WNW course, or thereabouts, of the river between the falls;
not much different from its general course, lower down. But as the
Ba-fing, or principal arm of this river, must run almost directly to
the north, from the place where Mr. Park crossed it, in Jallonkadoo,
it is highly probable, that the two great branches unite at no great
distance above the upper fall; for the same ridge of mountains that
occasions the fall, may, perhaps, occasion a junction of the different
streams above it.
These falls are said by Labat to be from 30 to 40 _toises_
perpendicular; or 180 to 240 French feet. We must recollect that
P. Hinnepen states the fall of Niagara at 600 feet, which subsequent
accounts have reduced to 150.[90] The reader will, however, find
very curious descriptions of these falls, and of the river itself,
in Labat, Vol. ii. p. 156, 160.
[Footnote 78: Strictly 16,292.]
[Footnote 79: It is proper to remark that M. D’Anville took the
longitude of Cape Verd 18½ min. more to the east, in respect of Ferro,
than M. Fleurieu: and Fort St. Louis, more to the west in respect to
Cape Verd, by 10¼ min.
M. D’Anville moreover, allows no more than 3° 2′ 30″
diff. lon. between Pisania and Fort St. Joseph, which by the _corrected
distance_ of Mr. Park, is no less than 3° 42′.]
[Footnote 80: The latitudes remain as they were.]
[Footnote 81: For further particulars respecting Tatta, see
Afr. Assoc. Q.; p. 225: and O. 333.]
[Footnote 82: It lies nearly midway between the Joliba and Senegal
rivers.]
[Footnote 83: Bammako, by Mr. Park’s original bearings, lies from
Sego W 8° S, 178 G. miles: and Kamaliah W 7°½ N, 51½. These are
corrected to W 25° S, and W 9°½ S.]
[Footnote 84: Perhaps the long journies of the slave caravans, such
as Mr. Park experienced, to the westward of this place.]
[Footnote 85: Not the Ferbanna of Bambouk, at which Major Houghton
resided; but Ferbanna Tenda, through which the King of Bambouk
described the southern route of the Slatees to lead, from Woolli to
Manding. (See Mem. Af. Assoc. 1793; p. 11.)]
[Footnote 86: There are several places of this name. The one in
question lies to the south of Bambouk.]
[Footnote 87: Kullo is a province of Jallankadoo, occupying both
banks of the Ba-fing, or Black River; and Manna the name of the
town. [Park.]]
[Footnote 88: Mr. Park seems to reckon 18 G. miles, in a direct
distance, a long journey: and 16 to 17 seems to have been his
ordinary rate, when left to himself. This is also the ordinary rate
of travelling, with those who perform journies on foot, or with
loaded beasts.]
[Footnote 89: Vol. ii. p. 156. Vol. iii. 290 and 358.]
[Footnote 90: See Ellicott’s Letter in Europ. Mag. Vol. xxiv.]
CHAPTER V.
_Construction of the New Map of North Africa.[91] — New Arrangement
of the Course of the Nile — Its distant Fountains yet unexplored
by Europeans. — A central Position in Africa, determined. —
Edrisi’s Line of Distance, consistent. — Errors of Leo._
In order that the reader may be enabled to judge of the improved
state of the new map of NORTH AFRICA, I shall set before him a list
of the authorities, together with an outline of the construction. To
enter into a detail of both, would require a volume: I shall therefore
barely _specify_ the authorities for the sea coasts, and for such parts
of the interior as have been aforetimes described by geographers;
and confine the _detail_ to modern discoveries, and to such parts,
as those discoveries have helped to improve: and more especially to
the points which determine the courses of the Niger and Nile.
The western and southern coasts, from the Strait of Gibraltar
to the Equator, have been newly constructed for the present
purpose. M. Fleurieu’s authorities have been followed in respect of
Cape Verd, Cape Blanco, and the Canary Islands. The coasts of Morocco
and Fez, rest on the authority of Don Tofino’s charts, in the Spanish
atlas: and between Morocco and Cape Blanco, various authorities have
been admitted, in the different parts: as it appeared to me, that
M. Fleurieu had not rightly conceived the position of Cape Bajador.
The coasts on the south and east of Cape Verd, are drawn in conformity
to the ideas of Captain Price. This gentleman, in the Royal Charlotte
East India ship in 1793, had an opportunity of adjusting the longitudes
of some important points; which longitudes Mr. Dalrymple applied to
the correction of the existing charts of the coast, and with his
accustomed liberality and zeal for the improvement of science,
permitted me to avail myself of the use of these corrections,
previous to his own publication of them, in a different form. It is
to the same invaluable Journal of Capt. Price, that I am indebted for
some of the most important notices respecting the variation of the
compass, along the coast of Guinea, &c.; and without which notices,
the approximation of the quantity of variation in the interior of
Africa, could not have been accomplished. (See above, page xxvi.)
The result is, that the coast of Guinea has several degrees _more_
of _extent_ from east to west; and that the breadth of South Africa
at the Equator, is _less_, than M. D’Anville had supposed.
No alteration has been made in the coasts within the Mediterranean,
save in the form and position of the Gulf of Alexandretta, and the
adjacent coasts.
The Red Sea, or Arabian Gulf, as well as the _whole_ course of the
Nile, have been re-constructed for the present purpose. For the
former, a great collection of new materials has been furnished by
Mr. Dalrymple. This includes a new chart of the whole Gulf by Captain
White, made in 1795: but I have not followed either _that_ or any
other _single_ authority _throughout_: but have made such alterations
as appeared to be warranted, on an examination and comparison of the
different materials.
The upper part of the Gulf, between Suez and Yambo, is however,
preserved entire, as Capt. White drew it.
The position of the Gulf, is thus adjusted:
Capt. White, by two observations of eclipses of Jupiter’s first
satellite, found the longitude of Suez to be 30° 28′ 30″ east
of Greenwich: and a mean of 76 lunar observations differed less than
a minute from the former.
The difference of longitude between Suez and Mocha, near the entrance
of the Gulf, is, by the mean of five different accounts, 11° 4′,
which added to 32° 28′ gives 43° 32′ for the longitude of
Mocha: and which is nearly a mean between the different results, by
timekeepers. But until a greater number of celestial observations are
taken at the mouth of the Gulf, its position cannot be deemed exact.
Cape Guardafui, is placed by _timekeeper_ observations, in 51° 12′
longitude: 11° 43′ of latitude.
The adjustment of the lower part of the course of the Nile, to the
shores of the Red Sea, differs very much from M. D’Anville’s
map. He supposed that the Nile, in its course from the lower Cataract
(near Syene) to Cairo, gradually approached towards the Arabian
Gulf: but late observations shew that it runs nearly parallel to it,
throughout that extent, which is about 7 degrees of latitude. Hence
the distance across, between the port of Kosire and Ghinna, on the
Nile, is much less than M. D’Anville supposed; he having allowed
about 110 G. miles, although 90 is about the truth.[92]
It may be proper to state, that the line between Kosire and Ghinna is
by no means the _shortest_, that can be drawn between the Nile and
the Red Sea, because it runs _obliquely_ between them. The distance
appears to be no greater than 72 miles on an ENE course, from Ghinna
to the nearest part of the coast.
Cairo, by the mean of several accounts, is about 59 G. miles to the
west of Suez, equal to 1° 8′ of longitude.[93] So that Cairo
should stand in 31° 20′. The _Con. de Temps_ has 31° 29′;
but it is probable that Suez is the best determined of the two places.
Mr. Bruce had observations of longitude at Kosire and Syene
(or Assuan). The first he gives at 34° 4′: and Capt. White at
34° 3′. But as Capt. White gives its latitude at 26° 18′,
whilst Mr. Bruce found it only 26° 8′, we may suppose that the
former did not approach the coast near enough to discriminate
particulars. Mr. Bruce’s parallel intersects the coast in
Capt. White’s chart, in lon. 34° 8′: and I have adopted that for
the place of Kosire. Capt. White may perhaps have mistaken the _old_
for _new_ Kosire.
Syene is given at 33° 30′ by Mr. Bruce, making 2° 10′ east
from Cairo; whereas M. D’Anville has no more than 41 minutes of
easting. Hence arises a difference of 12 degrees in the bearing:
M. D’Anville’s being about N 9 W; Bruce’s N 21 W: or nearly
parallel to the shore of the Red Sea.
The longitude of Sennar is 33° 30′ 30″ according to Mr. Bruce. In
this particular is found the widest difference between D’Anville
and Bruce; the former placing it no less than 3° 50′ more to the
west; that is, D’Anville has it, 1° 41′ _west_ of Cairo, Bruce
2° 9′ _east_ of it.
In effect, then, the general course of the Nile below Sennar lies to
the _west_ of north, instead of the contrary, as described in the
imperfect materials offered to M. D’Anville. For we cannot doubt
the _general_ truth of Mr. Bruce’s geographical positions, although
we may not be inclined to allow them every point of accuracy. In the
observation of longitude at Kosire, we have seen that he comes very
near to Capt. White: and his longitude of Cairo, is more exact, or
more in harmony with Capt. White’s observations at Suez, than the
longitude recorded in the _Con. de Temps_. We have moreover another
observation of longitude taken by Mr. Bruce at the eastern source of
the Nile, 36° 55′ 30″, (lat. 10° 59′), from whence one route
leads eastward to the shore of the Red Sea at Masua, another westward
to Sennar. Admitting his observations to be ever so coarsely made,
these routes must have afforded so considerable a check, to the
distance between Masua and Sennar, as to have precluded any very
great error, in a difference of longitude of about six degrees only;
so that there is little question but that M. D’Anville’s statement
is wrong.
From Sennar, Mr. Bruce has a new and interesting route, northward
to Syene. Dongola lay wide to the west of this route; and he has
not informed us on what authority it is placed in his map. Still,
however, the change in the position of the Nile, must carry Dongola
to the eastward with it, of course; and in Bruce’s map it is found
at 1° 18′ diff. long. to the east of D’Anville’s;[94] equal
to 73 G. miles. The latitude of Dongola is also ½ a degree to the
south of the parallel assigned by D’Anville, that is, 19½ instead
of 20°. With respect to that of Sennar, D’Anville was right.
In describing the western head of the Nile (and which has no existence
in Mr. Bruce’s map), it may be thought that I have advanced into the
regions of conjecture; but I trust that I have not gone beyond the
limits implied by the authorities. To enter into a detail of these,
together with the deductions and combinations arising from them, would
occupy too much room here; especially as they are designed for another
place. It may be sufficient to state, that the branch in question,
called the _White_ River, or _Abiad_,[95] is admitted by Mr. Bruce
himself, to be a more _bulky_ stream than the Abyssinian branch. That
M. Maillet was told, that it holds a course which is distant from
12 to 20 journies from the eastern branch. That Ledyard was told
at Cairo, by certain persons from _Darfoor_, that the Nile has its
fountains in their country situated 55 journies to the westward of
Sennar:[96] and whose _frontier_ province, _Kordofan_, is placed by
Bruce, adjoining to the west of the country of Sennar. And finally,
that Ptolemy, Edrisi, and Abulfeda, all place the head of the Nile
in a quarter far remote from Abyssinia. Ptolemy, in particular, has
described the eastern source, in such a way, as that it cannot be taken
for any other than the Abyssinian branch (_i.e._ Bruce’s Nile); and
yet he at the same time describes a larger, and more distant, source,
to proceed from the SW; answering to the White River. His _Coloe_ lake,
is clearly the _Tzana_ of Bruce: and may possibly have been meant to
express _Galla_, the name of the southern division of Abyssinia.[97]
Having completed this part of the subject, I proceed to the inland
positions in the western and central parts of the continent.
M. D’Anville has been followed in the geography of Barbary and
Morocco, with the exception of an adjustment of the interior of the
latter, to the coasts; which are drawn from the charts in the atlas
of Don Tofino, in which the capes of Cantin, Geer, &c. are placed
more to the east, in respect of the strait, than in D’Anville.
The lower parts of the Senegal, Gambia, and Rio Grande, are from
M. D’Anville’s, and Dr. Wadstrom’s maps.
Of Mr. Park’s route and discoveries, it is needless to say more,
than that the particular map which contains them, has been copied
into this; forming a most important member of it.
The routes and positions formerly introduced from materials collected
by the African Association, in the northern part of the continent,
are revised and reconstructed; perhaps with more effect, as our
knowledge and experience of the subject increases.
Fezzan is placed, as before, due south from Mesurata: its capital
Mourzouk, being 17½ journies of the caravan, distant. Edrisi affords
a slight check to the _bearing_, as well as to the distance, by means
of Wadan, which lies nearly midway, and is five journies west of Sort,
a known position on the coast: and also eight journies of his scale
from Zuela, a known position in Fezzan,[98]
A description of the caravan routes from Tripoly, to Mourzouk, Egypt,
and the Niger, will be found in the Proceedings of the Association,
published in 1790, and 1791 (chapters x. and xii.)
The point on which the _central_ and _eastern_ positions depend,
is GHINNY; or GHANA, (as Edrisi and Abulfeda call it) a city, and
capital of a kingdom situated nearly midway between the Indian Sea
and the Atlantic, on the E and W; and between the Mediterranean and
the Ethiopic Seas, on the N and S. Fortunately, this point, on which
so many others depend, can be satisfactorily approximated: though by
this, I do not mean to any degree of nicety, where an extent of 70
degrees, nearly, is in question.
According to Edrisi, Ghana lies 37 journies from _Germa_, through
Agadez, or Agadost. Germa, an ancient and ruined city of Fezzan, lies
to the ESE of Mourzouk, about four journies.[99] The position of Germa
therefore will be about lat. 27° 25′: lon. 16° 20′ E. Agadez
in 25 of Edrisi’s journies from Germa,[100] and is said to bear S
by W, or SSW from the capital of Fezzan.[101] Again, Agadez is given
at 48 caravan journies from Gadamis, which latter is 24 such journies
in a southerly direction from Tunis.[102] The road to Agadez makes a
considerable angle, by passing through Tegerhy, situated 80 miles only,
to the SW or WSW of Mourzouk:[103] and hence the direct distance of
48 journies must undergo some diminution. The result places Agadez S
by W ¼ W from Mourzouk, 479 G. miles distant; which only exceeds by
six miles the distance arising on the 25 journies from Germa: and its
position will be at a few minutes above the parallel of 20 degrees,
and a little more than half a degree of longitude west of Tripoly. The
position receives some further check, from the circumstance of Tegerhy
being midway between Kabes and Agadez.[104]
Ghana is 12 days of Edrisi’s scale to the southward of Agadez,
or about 229 G. miles.[105] It appears that Ghana lies somewhat to
the east of the line which passes through Agadez from Germa; whence
some little deduction should be made from the aggregate distance of
37 days, or 705 miles; and I have therefore taken 700 as the general
line of distance from Germa to Ghana.
Mr. Matra was told, at Morocco, that Ghinny (Ghana of Edrisi)
was 40 journies from Kabra, the port of Tombuctoo, along the bank
of the Niger. These, taken at the caravan rate between Fezzan and
Egypt; Morocco and Jarra; &c. that is at 16,3 per day, produce
652 G. miles. The intersection of this line with that from Germa,
places Ghana in lat. 16° 10′, lon. 13° 2′ E of Greenwich;
in which position it stands at 760 miles from the city of Benin,
on the coast of Guinea.[106]
De Barros says, that when the Portugueze first explored the _Coast
of Guinea_ (about 1469) the king of Benin held his kingdom of the
king of _Ogane_, as his superior lord; and that ambassadors were sent
accordingly, to obtain a confirmation of his authority. The distance
of Ogane (doubtless meant for Ghana) from Benin, was stated to be 250
leagues of Portugal; which being of 18 to a degree, are equal to about
833 G. miles. And if from these we deduct ½ for the inflections of
the road, there remain 740 for the direct line; which, as the reader
will perceive, is very near the former result. Thus the determination
of this important point, appears satisfactory.[107]
Before I speak further concerning Ghana and Melli, with a view to
identify them with the same countries mentioned by Leo, it will be
proper to _close_ the line of distance eastward to Nubia.
Between Ghana on the west, and Dongola on the east,[108] the
interval on the map is about 1118 G. miles, in an E by N direction,
nearly. Edrisi gives a chain of distance between them: and although
we cannot ascertain the _exact_ bearing of the several parts, yet
enough is known, to enable us to approximate the general _bent_ of
it; which is to the _south_; and the degree of curvature seems to be
such, as to increase the distance 50 or 60 miles; say 55, and then the
line of Edrisi may be taken at 1173 G. miles.[109] Now as he reckons
66 journies, each will be no more than 17¾: and his usual standard
is 19, or 1¼ more. This difference may easily arise on some of the
longer portions of the line; which, although given in the aggregate,
may be broken into several parts, and each of them inflected from the
other in some degree. Such, for instance, may be the case of the line
of 30 days between Dongola and Kauga; although the bearing of it,
on the whole, is SW by W, or WSW. Therefore the interval of space
between Ghana and Dongola seems to be satisfactorily filled up. Or,
if we take the whole number of computed journies between Pisania on
the Gambia river, and Dongola on the Nile, at 158; of which 92 are
between Pisania and Ghana, 66 between the latter and Dongola; there
will be on the former, according to our construction, a ratio of about
16,6 G. miles per day, on the direct line; and 16,9 on the latter.
To the _northward_ of this line, and in the quarter towards _Nubia_,
are situated the countries or kingdoms of Bornou (or Kanem) Tagua,
Kuku, Kuar, and Zagawa: and in the quarter towards _Ghana_, are
Zanfara, and Zegzeg. Most of them are mentioned, as well by Leo,
as by Edrisi.
There is a route to the capital of Bornou given in the Proceedings of
the Association, 1790-91, by which it is placed at about SE ½ S from
Mourzouk, distant 660 G. miles; whence it falls on the map exactly
in the same parallel with Dongola, and at 524 miles to the west of
it: so that the country of Bornou occupies the middle space between
Nubia and Ghana; Fezzan and Sennar.[110] There is little doubt that
Bornou is the Kanem of Edrisi, said to border on Nubia. Angimi (or
Gimi) in particular, one of its cities, is said to be near Nubia,
on the east.[111] There is a city of the name of Kanem, in the way
from Fezzan to the capital of Bornou, as we learn not only from
Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. but from a note in Hartmann:[112] but this
cannot be the capital of Kanem, intended by Edrisi; because neither
the bearings nor the distances to it, from Dongola and Nubia agree;
and also, because the bearing and distance from Dongola _do_ agree
exactly to the capital pointed out, by Mr. Beaufoy: and which Edrisi
names Matthan, or Matsan. This capital he places at 31 days journey to
the west of Nubia, whose position, however, is too uncertain to reckon
upon: but Abulfeda says that Zagua, or Zagara, is 20 journies _west_
from Dongola;[113] and Matthan, according to Edrisi, is eight journies
from Zagua, (p. 15). It has already been noticed that the capital of
Bornou falls in the same parallel with Dongola; and here we learn that
Zagua, is also in the same parallel with it; consequently, the whole
28 journies from Dongola, may be taken on the same _westerly_ bearing;
and the result will be, a distance of 534 miles; differing only 10
from the interval on the map. Consequently, the Matthan of Edrisi may
be taken for the capital of Bornou, pointed out by the above authority.
The countries of Zagua (or Zagara) and Tagua, fill up the space between
the kingdom of Bornou and Nubia. The former appears to be a small
province, perhaps a dependency of Bornou. The situation of its capital
is inferred above, to be eight journies to the east of that of Bornou.
Tagua lies between Zagua and Dongola, and its capital at 13 journies
from Matthan, (p. 15). Northward it extends to the tract of _Al Wahat_,
the western province of Upper Egypt. Thus, its position cannot be
mistaken.
The country of Kuku (this must not be mistaken for Kauga) lies to the
NW of Tagua; NE of Bornou; and joins on the NE to Al Wahat. This is an
extensive country, bordering on the Desert of Libya, and partakes of
its nature. Its capital of the same name is situated at 20 journies
to the _north_ of Kauga. It is also 14 to the _eastward_ of Tamalma,
which is itself 12 to the _northward_ of Matthan. Hence Kuku may be
approximated, in position. (Edrisi, page 13, _et seq._)
A river runs from N to S by Kuku, and is received into a lake at a
great distance from Kuku; perhaps the lake of Kauga: and the river
itself may form a part of that, said to run near Angimi,[114] of
which more in the sequel.
Kuar, or Kawar, lies to the northward of Kuku and of Bornou; and
extends eastward to Al Wahat. It is bounded on the north by that
extensive Desert which separates Egypt from Fezzan; and which contains
the _wandering_ tribe of _Lebeta_ or _Levata_; as also various _Oases_,
or fertile islands; amongst the rest, those of Augela, Berdoa, Seewah,
and that which contained the temple of _Jupiter Ammon_. This Desert
I regard as the proper Desert of LIBYA: and it may be a question
whether the tribe of _Lebeta_, although now found in the interior
of the country, may not have originally inhabited the sea coast;
and that the Greeks denominated Africa from _them_.[115] This was
the part of Africa the nearest, and first colonized by the Greeks;
and it is a known fact, that the _Adyrmachidæ_ and _Nasamones_, who,
in the days of Herodotus, inhabited the _coasts_, were at a succeeding
period, found in the _inland_ parts about _Ammon_ and _Augela_.
The capital of Kuar is by Edrisi placed adjacent to Fezzan; but
there is either some mistake in this, or I do not comprehend the
matter rightly. (Ed. p. 39, 40.) Tamalma, a city of Kuar, is only 12
days from Matthan (p. 14.), so that the Desert of Bilma, or Bulma,
must lie between it and Fezzan. Mederam Isa, another of its cities,
is said to be only two days from Zuela, or Zawila, a city of Fezzan:
and Izer, a third city, is placed in the same neighbourhood, and near
a large lake. Either then, these cities belong to Fezzan, and are by
mistake classed as belonging to Kuar; or they _really_ belong, as well
as Tamalma, (of which there is no doubt) to Kuar. I am inclined to
the _latter_ opinion, for the following reasons. In the catalogue of
places, in Fezzan (in Af. Assoc.) there is no mention either of Izer,
Isa, Bulmala, or of a lake near the former. But there is a remarkable
salt lake near Dumboo, on the northern frontier of Bornou, which from
its relative position to Tamalma, may well be the one intended by
Edrisi: especially as Bulmala, (p. 40.) which may be meant for Bulma,
occurs in the same neighbourhood. The salt lakes of Dumboo are said
to be situated in the Desert of Bilma;[116] which Desert appears to
be a prolongation of the Libyan Desert to the SW.
Zanfara is said by Labat, to be 50 journies from Tombuctoo.[117]
Leo places it between Wangara and Zegzeg; which latter, by the
same authority, being to the SE of Cano (or Ganat) Zanfara must
necessarily border on the NE of Ghana; having Bornou on the east,
Agadez and Kassina (which we formerly erroneously spelt _Cashnah_)
on the west. Here it may be proper to observe, that in the present
political division of Africa, Kassina comprizes generally the
provinces between Fezzan and the Niger; and that Zanfara is its
eastern boundary. Of course Ghana, which in the 15th century was
paramount in the centre of Africa, is now become a province of Kassina.
To the _south_ of the line between Ghana and Nubia, very few
particulars are known to Europeans. The knowledge of Edrisi, was
limited to this line itself: and the only country known to him on
the south of the Niger, was _Melli_, which he calls _Lamlem_. Nor
did the knowledge of Leo, extend beyond the countries contiguous to
the south bank of the Niger; nor to any country west of Tombuctoo;
although by mistake, he places Ghana and Melli, there. This may serve
to shew, that the people on the north side of the Niger, have very
little communication with those, who live beyond the great belt of
mountains, which runs across Africa, at about the 10th degree.
Nor did the inquiries of Mr. Beaufoy produce any thing more than the
_names_ of certain of the adjacent countries; the only one of which
that can be _placed_, is _Begarmee_ (perhaps the Begama of Edrisi)
said to be 20 journies to the SE of Bornou, and separated from it by
several small deserts.[118] It seems to be the country intended by
the Gorham of D’Anville.
Kororofa and Guber are said in Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS. to lie to the west
of Begarmee; the latter bordering on Wangara. Neither of these, can
well be in a lower parallel than 11° or 12 degrees. But _Darfoor_,
a country of considerable extent and population, and apparently the
farthest removed of any that has a communication with Egypt, is pointed
out to our notice by Mr. Ledyard, as has been already shewn.[119]
In the present limited state of our knowledge respecting the interior
of Africa, it would be mis-spending time to attempt to follow Leo,
in his detail of provinces and nations, in the parts remote from the
immediate scene of our discoveries; or of the routes communicated to
the Association. But it is of the utmost importance to the argument
respecting the _course_ of the _Niger_, that I should clear up
some of his errors regarding the positions of _Ghana_ (his _Ginea_)
and _Melli_.
Leo says, p. 248, 249, that the merchants of _his_ country (I
conceive he means Barbary) call the country in question, Gheneoa;
that its proper inhabitants call it Genni: but the Portugueze, and
other Europeans, Ginea.[120] He says that it is situated to the
_west_ of Tombuctoo, that is between Tombuctoo and Gualata:[121]
that it has an extent of several hundred miles _along the Niger_,
even to the place where it discharges itself into the sea. Again,
says he, the kingdom of Melli _borders on_ Ginea, _southward_; and
on the west, are vast forests, which extend to the sea. And finally,
he places the kingdom of _Gago_ to the _east_ of Melli.
Now nothing is more certain, than that the space on the west of
Tombuctoo and Gago, is occupied by nations, very different from those
of Ginea (by which Ghana is to be understood) and Melli: as also that
the space assigned by Leo, to Ginea, is a remarkably _dry, sandy_,
country; being either adjacent to, or forming a part of the Sahara:
whereas Ginea is described by him to be a tract, which, during the
inundations of the Niger, in July, August, and September, is inclosed
like an island.
It is however not improbable, that Leo, who it appears had visited
Tombuctoo (but who certainly never saw the Niger, which is about 12
miles beyond it), might confound the city of Jenné, which is situated
in a small island in the Niger, and to the west of Tombuctoo, with
the kingdom of Ghana (his Ginea), on the east: but as to Melli, that
is quite out of the question, in respect of any mistake of the like
kind; and could only be placed on the west of Gago, in order that it
might preserve its southerly position in respect of Ginea. Thus one
mistake seems to have produced the other.
The position of Ghana (or Ginny according to Mr. Matra), at 40
journies to the eastward of Tombuctoo, has been already detailed, in
page lix. And this is, no doubt, the Ginea intended by those, from
whom Leo collected his information respecting the country itself,
whose geography he has so much erred in.
The kingdom of Melli had been reported to Cadamosta, when he made
inquiries concerning the interior of Africa, about the year 1455. He
was told that Tombuctoo, (whose general position was not ill described
to him, at about 60 journies inland from Arguin,[122]) was supplied
with _mineral_ salt from Tegazza, 40 journies to the westward. That
the same salt mine supplied Melli, 30 journies beyond Tombuctoo,
the salt passing through the latter place.[123] (We must here suppose
that the _capital_ of Melli, called by the same name as the country,
is meant as the term of this journey). Hence we should naturally look
for Melli on the _eastward_ of Tombuctoo, as will presently appear,
and not on the SW, as is expressed in Astley.[124] No doubt, SE was
meant: for Edrisi has a city of the name of _Malel_, at 10 journies
to the south of Berissa,[125] and 12 from the city of Ghana: and
this position actually falls at 30 journies to the ESE of Tombuctoo;
agreeing to the distance reported by Cadamosta.
But Edrisi does not call the country _Melli_, but _Lamlem_. However,
it can be no other than the Melli of Leo, and Cadamosta: for Edrisi
says (p. 8 and 11), that it is situated to the south of Ghana and
Berissa, and has on the east the country of Wangara (Vancara),
which agrees to the tract in which Malel is situated. Hartmann
supposes, (p. 39,) with great appearance of truth, that Lamlem is
a transposition of Melli: and I have met with similar instances
in the translation of Arabic words and numbers. Thus Leo’s ideas
were evidently wrong, respecting the situations of Ghana and Melli;
which lie to the _eastward_ of Tombuctoo, although he places them
to the _west_. The place of Melli is occupied, in his description,
by Guber (which Mr. Beaufoy learnt, was to the south of Wangara);
whilst that of Ghana remains unoccupied; unless we suppose it to
be included in the empire of Tombuctoo, which is implied (p. 254),
when he speaks of Wangara (Guangara) as being troubled on the _west_
by the King of Tombuctoo, and on the _east_ by him of Bornou: and as
he also speaks of Tombuctoo as the largest empire in Nigritia, (p. 4.)
In the position of Wangara,[126] he is right; for it lies between
Zanfara, and Bornou: but he seems not to have known that it was
intersected by the Niger, and formed of its alluvions, as Edrisi
points out to us.[127] But Leo learnt one important particular as
a merchant, that the _southern_ quarter of it, produced _gold_,
in abundance. As I shall have occasion to speak more fully of this
country, when the _course_ of the Niger comes under consideration,
it will be unnecessary to say more of it, in this place.
Kassina is removed by Leo, from the banks of the Niger, its
proper situation, far inland, to the east of Cano, or Ganat,[128]
(p. 253.) This is another proof of his writing from hearsay. Kassina
is not heard of, in Edrisi; it no doubt was included in Ghana, at
that day.
Leo is silent respecting Tokrur or Tekrur. This appears to have been
the metropolis of the great central empire of Africa, in the time
of Edrisi and Abulfeda; and must have existed in later times; as the
Tukorol, to whose prince the Portugueze sent an ambassador about the
year 1493, may be taken for the same place. It may, however, have been
swallowed up in the empire of Tombuctoo, which was founded after the
time of Edrisi, and before the date of Leo’s writing. But as the
city of Tombuctoo gave name to the empire, so might Tokrur; and this
latter may have fallen so much to decay, as to be little known in the
present times: and this may account for Mr. Park’s not being able to
learn any tidings of it. And finally, as Leo had not heard of Houssa,
we may conclude that it is a city of a yet later date; and which
may possibly have superseded Tokrur. Such a fluctuation of names,
serves as much to confound geographers in the political division
of Africa, as the various opinions of those who have written on the
physical geography, do, respecting the relative position of places,
and the courses of its rivers.
* * * * *
_Remarks on the Positions of the Salt Mines in the Great Desert._
Edrisi understood that all the salt consumed in the kingdoms of
Nigritia (particularly along the course of the Niger), was brought
from _Ulil_, situated at 16 journies to the westward of Sala, and
erroneously supposed by him to be an island, situated in the ocean,
near the mouth of the Niger.[129] But by the _situation_, one would
suppose that the salt mines of _Aroan_, 10 journies to the NNW of
Tombuctoo, and in the road to Morocco, were meant; and from whence
Tombuctoo is at present supplied. It is not easy to guess how an inland
salt mine should have been mistaken for an island, in the ocean:
but it is certain that both Edrisi and Abulfeda, supposed the Niger
to discharge itself into the sea, near the meridian of Tombuctoo. Ibn
Al Wardi[130] speaks of _Oulili_, as the principal city of _Soudan_
(or Nigritia), situated on the _sea coast_, and having extensive salt
works, from which salt was carried to the other states of Nigritia.
Mr. Park mentions the city of _Walet_, capital of Beeroo, which may
perhaps be the _Oulili_ intended by Ibn Al Wardi;[131] but it has no
salt pits; for the inhabitants fetch salt from Shingarin, six journies
to the northward of it:[132] and Walet is more than 24 journies from
Sala, instead of 16, as stated by Edrisi.
Cadamosta and Leo, in the third and fourth centuries after Edrisi,[133]
say, that the people of Tombuctoo had their salt from _Tegazza_, 40
journies to the westward of that city; and that the salt was carried
so far to the east as Melli, which is opposite to Kassina. By Tegazza,
_Tisheet_,[134] the salt mine of Jarra seems to have been meant; but is
far short of 40 journies from Tombuctoo. Now, if in the 12th century,
salt was procurable so near to Tombuctoo as Aroan, or Shingarin (the
salt pits of Walet), why should they have fetched it from a place 30
or 40 days distant, in the 15th and 16th? This requires explanation:
for Edrisi states very particularly that salt was carried from _Ulil_
in boats along the Niger, and distributed amongst the nations on its
banks, from Sala to Kauga![135]
Mr. Beaufoy, quoted as above, says,[136] that there is a _salt lake_,
or lakes, in Bornou; from whence Agadez, Kassina, and certain states on
the south of the Niger, are supplied. This at least implies that there
are no salt _mines_ in the Desert, in the quarter _east_ of Tombuctoo.
[Footnote 91:
Table of the principal latitudes and longitudes in the Map.
--------------+--------------------+----------+---------+--------
| In the map. | By M. | |
| | Fleurieu | Con. de |
+---------+----------+----------| Temps. | Bruce.
|Latitude.|Longitude.|Longitude.| |
| | | | |
--------------+---------+----------+----------+---------+--------
*Cadiz |36° 21′ N| 6° 19′ W | 6° 19′ | |
| | | | |
C. Spartel |35 48 | 5 57 | 6 2 | 5 54 |
| | | | |
C. Cantin |32 33 | 9 15 | 9 11 | |
| | | | |
C. de Geer |30 28 | 9 54 | 10 31 | 9 53 |
| | | | |
C. Bajador |26 20 |14 17 | 14 49 | 14 28 |
| | | | |
*I. Ferro |27 51 |17 37 | 17 37 | |
| | | | |
C. Blanco |20 47 |16 58 | 16 58 | |
| | | | |
*C. Verd |14 48 |17 34 | 17 35 | |
| | | | |
†C. Palmas | 4 30 | 7 41 | | |
| | | | |
†I. St. Thomas| 0 18 N | 6 37 E | | |
| | | | |
Tunis |36 44 |10 20 | | |
| | | | |
Tripoly |32 54 |13 15 | | 13 20 |
| | | | |
Mourzouk |27 48 |15 3 | | |
| | | | |
*Suez |30 2 |32 28 | | |
| | | | |
Cairo |30 3 |31 20 | | 31 29 |
| | | | |
Koseir |26 8 |34 8 | | |*31 4
| | | | |
Sennar |13 35 |33 30 30″| | |
| | | | |
Source of | | | | |
the Nile in | | | | |
Abyssinia |10 59 |36 55 | | |*36 55
| | | | |
†C. Guardafui |11 43 |51 12 | | |
| | | | |
Syene |24 — |33 30 | | |*33 30
--------------+---------+----------+----------+---------+--------
* The longitudes thus marked, are from celestial observation, either
at the place, or in the vicinage.
† From timekeepers: the two first by Capt. Price, the latter by
Capt. Richardson.]
[Footnote 92: Mr. Bruce reckoned 44½ hours of the caravan (with
camels) between Kosire and Kuft (that is Coptos), near Ghinna:
Mr. Irwin 46 from Kosire to Banute, situated at the Nile, at five
hours above Ghinna. The camel’s rate is 2½ British miles by the
road: consequently less than two G. miles in direct distance.
M. Savary had much the same idea of the distance; for he reckons it
33 French leagues. (Vol. ii. letter 2.) But his map has 70 G. miles
only: Pocock’s 90.
Mr. Irwin reckons the bearing WNW from Kosire to Ghinna; doubtless
by compass. The variation might be 13 to 14 degrees; whence Ghinna
would bear W 9° N from Kosire: Banute, which is stated to be about
five hours to the south of Ghinna, will therefore by this account
bear 1°½ N of W from Kosire. Mr. Irwin was certainly very near the
mark; though a little too much northerly. It appears that Banute is
in lat. 25° 47′ 30″ in D’Anville, and is 8 min. N of Negada;
at which place, Mr. Bruce observed the latitude to be 25° 53′
30″. Consequently D’Anville is 14 min. too far south in this
part. Apply this to Banute, and we have 26° 1′ 30″. Kosire lies
in 26° 8′, and Banute is then to the south of it, in reality, by
several minutes. At Syene, Mr. Bruce’s latitude is 11 min. north
of D’Anville’s. Not to go into extremes, I have taken Banute at
5 min. S of Kosire, Ghinna 3 min. N of it; or 26° 11′. D’Anville
places Ghinna in 26° 1′. It was of importance that these parallels
of the places should be adjusted.]
[Footnote 93: The principal authorities are the following:
M. Niebuhr reckoned between Suez and the Lake of the
Pilgrims, situated at 6,9 G. miles E 38 N from Cairo, 28h 40m
M. Volney, 29 —
Dr. Pocock, 29 15
-------
mean 28 58
Add from the Lake to Cairo, as it is usually reckoned, 3 —
-------
or say 32 hours 31 58
-------
But as there are (besides the just mentioned 3 hours, in a direction
of about 40° from the general line of direction) 3¼ hours more
between Suez and Ajerud, at much the same angle, a considerable
reduction of the direct distance must take place, probably about 1¾
hour: whence there remains 30¼. And as Dr. Shaw states the general
report of the distance to be 30 hours, it may be conceived that this
is the actual distance, by the _shortest_ route, which leaves the
Lake and Ajerud to the north. And for these, 59 G. miles direct may
be allowed. M. D’Anville allowed 60.]
[Footnote 94: That is, M. D. places it 36 min. _west_ of Cairo:
Mr. B. 42 min. _east_ of it.]
[Footnote 95: This must not be confounded with the _Neel Abeed_,
the name applied by the Arabs, to the Niger.]
[Footnote 96: See Mr. Ledyard’s communications in African
Association, for 1790,-91. He says 55 journies, _or_ four or five
hundred miles. There must, of course, be an error, either in the
number of the journies, or of the miles.]
[Footnote 97: Mr. Bruce has fallen into an error, which may mislead
those who do not attend to his map. He says, Vol. iii. p. 720, that
“the ground declines southward, from the parallel of five degrees
north:” but in the map at the end of Vol. v. the waters, as we have
just said, begin to flow southward, from the latitude of 8° north. I
believe, with him, that farther to the west, the southern slope may
not begin short of the 5th degree of latitude.]
[Footnote 98: The day’s journey of Edrisi is taken at 18 Arabic
miles, or about 19 G. in direct distance. Strictly speaking, it should
be 19,06, as 56⅔ Arabic miles are equal to a degree.]
[Footnote 99: Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.]
[Footnote 100: Edrisi, p. 39.]
[Footnote 101: Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.]
[Footnote 102: Af. Assoc. 1793, p. 29.]
[Footnote 103: Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 88; O. p. 133.]
[Footnote 104: Af. Assoc. 1793, page 29, _et seq._]
[Footnote 105: Edrisi, p. 39.]
[Footnote 106: By some oversight, Ghana is placed in the map, too
far to the east, by 8 minutes of longitude.]
[Footnote 107: I cannot learn with any degree of certainty, from whence
the name GUINEA, applied to the SW coast of Africa, is derived. Some
have supposed it to be from the capital or country of the superior
monarch, in the interior of the continent; but it is certain that the
same name is applied by Sanuto (in 1588) to the coast between the river
Gambia and Cape Mesurada. But Sanuto may have taken the idea from Leo,
who was in an error with respect to the matter of Guinea, at large.]
[Footnote 108: Placed as above on the authority of Mr. Bruce.]
[Footnote 109: The chain of bearings and distances is thus ascertained:
Edrisi allows 66 journies between Ghana and Dongola: of which 36 are
between Ghana and Kauga; 30 between the latter and Dongola (Damokla
of Edrisi). Of the thirty six, eighteen are clearly shewn to point
_eastward_; partly by direct information, partly by the context. For
Kauga is said to be 10 journies to the _east_ of Semegonda:
(Ed. p. 13.) and between the latter and Sekmara, 8 journies, is about
E by S and W by N; as we learn from the triangle formed by the points
of Sekmara, Semegonda, and Reghebil; the latter place being six days
_southward_ from the former, and nine from Semegonda. And lastly, the
18 journies between Ghana and Sekmara, are checked by the _bearing_
and _distance_ between Reghebil and _Ghanara_; and the _distance_
between Ghanara and Ghana—(See the map). For Reghebil is said
(Edrisi, p. 12.) to lie 11 journies to the _east_ of Ghanara, whilst
the latter is also 11 journies from Ghana. The context shews, that
if _Sekmara_ is 18 journies from Ghana, and Reghebil 6 days _south_
from Sekmara, whilst Ghanara preserves the relative position above
described, that Sekmara must lie to the _eastward_ of _Ghana_.
Kauga ought unquestionably to lie to the southward of Dongola, by 2½
or 3 degrees. For it is 20 journies to the southward of Kuku, which
is itself about the parallel of Tamalma, which is 12 journies from
Matthan, the capital of Bornou; _northward_. And this Matthan, as will
be shewn presently, lies in the same parallel with _Dongola_. Thus,
I may assume, without any great hazard, an easterly bearing between
Ghana and Kauga; E 25 N between Kauga and Dongola.
For the authorities for the above particulars, see Edrisi, pages
10, 11, 12, 13. It would be almost endless to note each separate
authority.]
[Footnote 110: The capital of Bornou falls in lat. 24° 32′,
lon. 22° 57′. The empire is said to be very extensive; and its
sovereign more powerful than the Emperor of Morocco: Af. Assoc. 1790,
Q. p. 152; O. p. 229.]
[Footnote 111: Edrisi, p. 14.]
[Footnote 112: Hartmann’s Edrisi, page 63, note (_v._)]
[Footnote 113: Article Soudan.]
[Footnote 114: Angimi is a city eight days journey from Matthan, six
from Zagua; and towards Nubia and the Niger; consequently to the SE of
Matthan; and _apparently_, not far to the northward of Kauga. Edrisi,
p. 14.]
[Footnote 115: Mr. Park mentions a wandering tribe named _Libey_,
whom he had seen in his travels. He compares them, in respect of
their habits and modes of life, to _gipsies_.]
[Footnote 116: Mr. Park mentions a wandering tribe named _Libey_,
whom he had seen in his travels. He compares them, in respect of
their habits and modes of life, to _gipsies_.
f From the borders of these lakes, Kassina and other countries are
supplied with salt, by the people of Agadez, who annually employ
1000 camels in this commerce. Af. Assoc. 1790, Q. p. 157. 167; and
O. p. 236. 251.]
[Footnote 117: Labat, Vol. iii. p. 363.]
[Footnote 118: African Association, 1790; Q. p. 155; O. p. 234.]
[Footnote 119: African Association. See Ledyard’s Communications,
in Af. Assoc. 1790, 1791.]
[Footnote 120: Abulfeda, Edrisi, and Ibn Al Wardi call it Ghana,
and Ganah.]
[Footnote 121: Gualata is described by Leo to be situated 500 miles
from Tombuctoo towards Nun.]
[Footnote 122: He was told that Hoden or Whaden, was 70 leagues east
of Arguin, and Tegazza six journies from Hoden. Tombuctoo was 40 days
from thence. Astley, Vol. i. p. 20, and 577, 578.]
[Footnote 123: Astley, Vol. i. p. 578. Some Remarks on the Salt Mines
are added, at the end of this Chapter.]
[Footnote 124: Ib. Vol. ii. p. 74.]
[Footnote 125: Berissa is 12 journies west of Ghana, Edrisi.]
[Footnote 126: Guangara, (Leo.)]
[Footnote 127: Pages 11, and 12.]
[Footnote 128: It lies to the SSW of Agadez. Af. Ass. Q. p. 221;
O. p. 326. M. D’Anville mistook the _Cano_ of Leo (p. 253.) situated
at 500 miles from the Niger, for _Ghana_. But the _Ganat_ of our map,
in the road from Fezzan to Agadez, must be meant.]
[Footnote 129: Edrisi, p. 7.]
[Footnote 130: Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 29.]
[Footnote 131: Oulili, Oualet?]
[Footnote 132: Mr. Park’s MSS.]
[Footnote 133: Edrisi wrote in the 12th century; Cadamosta in the 15th,
and Leo in the 16th.]
[Footnote 134: Mr. Park’s MSS.]
[Footnote 135: Edrisi, p. 7.]
[Footnote 136: African Association, 1790; Q. p. 157, 167; and
O. p. 236, 251.]
CHAPTER VI.
_The Subject continued — Course of the River Niger, at large —
has no Communication with the Nile — Ptolemy’s Description of
it consistent._
The course of the _Niger_ (or _Joliba_) as we have seen, is
established, by ocular demonstration, as far as _Silla_; and may, I
conceive, be _admitted_, as far as _Houssa_, about 400 miles farther to
the east, on the foundation of the information collected by Mr. Park;
since it agrees with the ideas communicated to Mr. Beaufoy, by an
intelligent Moorish merchant, who had navigated the river: and as it
agrees no less with the report of Mr. Magrah, obtained from Moorish
merchants at Tunis; and of Major Houghton from Bambouk. Thus, the first
700 G. miles of its course are _from_ WEST _to_ EAST; or rather from
WSW to ENE. There remains then, a space of _more_ than double that
distance, between Houssa and the nearest part of the Egyptian Nile,
near Dongola: and yet more, to the known parts of the White river,
or Abiad, the SW branch of the Nile.
I shall divide the matter respecting the course of this river, into
three heads. 1. Respecting the continuity of its waters, from Houssa
on the west, to Wangara on the east; without regard to the direction
of the stream. 2. Respecting the positive direction of the stream. And,
3, concerning its termination.
1. _Respecting the Continuity of its Waters._
Edrisi gives the most positive information concerning the course
of the Niger, or Nile of the Negroes, from east to west; deriving
it from the same lake through which the Egyptian Nile passes; and
describing it to terminate at 16 journies west of Sala (that is, a
little to the west of the position occupied by Tombuctoo); and near
the supposed island of Ulil before mentioned.[137] He thus cuts off
about 1000 miles of the breadth of Africa. This was an error common
to all the ancient geographers, as well as to those of Arabia: for
Ptolemy places the mouth of the Senegal river only two degrees more
to the west, than Edrisi does that of the Niger.
Abulfeda believed, with Edrisi, that the Niger had a common source
with the Nile, and ran westward.[138]
It is certain, that these _opinions_ furnish no _proofs_ of continuity
of course: but it may be supposed that there was some foundation for
them; especially as Edrisi says, that salt was carried upon the Niger
in boats from the island of Ulil, and distributed to the people on
its banks, from Sala to Wangara, and Kauga.[139]
Mr. Matra was told[140] that from Kabra, the port of Tombuctoo,
“people sometimes travelled _along the river_ the space of 40 days,
to Ginny (Ghana) a large city;” &c.
The Moorish merchant, with whom Mr. Beaufoy conversed, and whom he
speaks of as a clear and intelligent man, says, “That the country
of _Guinea_ or Ginny, is on the _same river_ with _Houssa_.”
(Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.)
Edrisi, besides mentioning the cities of Sala, Tokrur, Berissa,
Ghana, and Ghanara, all of which he says are situated on the Niger,
remarks that the _country of Wangara_, to which Ghanara belongs,
is _surrounded_ by that river,[141] as it would appear by means
of a subdivision of its waters; for Gatterer says, that Ghanara,
one of its cities, stands on the _western_ arm of the Guin,[142]
by which name he mentions the Niger; of which more presently. Now,
as Wangara extends, according to Edrisi, 300 _Arabic_ miles along the
river,[143] this extent, together with the distance of Wangara from
Ghana, eight journies,[144] or 152 miles, makes up 496 G. miles of
the course of this river, eastward from Ghana; which being itself 500
miles east of Houssa, there will be 969 miles in _direct_ distance,
traced eastward of Houssa: or on the whole, as Houssa is 700 miles
below the source, about 1670 G. miles of water-course from the head
of the Niger, above Manding, to the eastern extremity of Wangara!
In addition to these authorities, I may state from Leo, that the people
of Tombuctoo convey their merchandize in boats (or rather canoes)
to Ginea, _by the Niger_: and that at Kabra they embark for Melli,
also. But it is proper to be noticed, that he says (p. 249), that
this communication with Ginea takes place in the _rainy season only_
(July, August, September), which would imply a deficiency of water
for navigation, at other seasons.[145] Leo, however, certainly never
saw the Niger, although he seems to report himself an eye-witness of
many particulars relating to it. His intelligence is therefore often
to be suspected; though it has probably happened, that being regarded
as an original author, instead of a compiler, he has given weight to
the systems of Edrisi and Abulfeda, respecting the course of the Niger.
Gatterer, as I have hinted before, calls the Niger, Guin, as well at
Tokrur and Ghana, as at Wangara.[146] Now we learn from Mr. Park,
that the northern branch of the Niger, above Tombuctoo, passes by
the town of Jinbala, and collect also from Labat, that it is named
the _river of Guin_: and here we have the same name extended even to
Wangara; a presumptive proof of the prolongation of the same river!
Edrisi speaks of the same Niger, or Nile of the Negroes,[147] also,
at Kauga, 10 journies to the east of Wangara; from which we collect
that he must have supposed, that this _emanation_ of the Egyptian Nile
(as he supposed it to be) first ran to the north, and then turned
to the west, through Nigritia. And if any consequence can be deduced
from his account of the conveyance of salt, along the Niger to Kauga,
where the catalogue of places supplied, ends, we should conclude that
he supposed the navigable part of the river, _ended_ at Kauga.
Although there can be no question that _a_ river named _Nile_
(or rather _Neel_), passes through the quarter of Kauga, Angimi,
&c. since Edrisi, Abulfeda, and Leo, speak of it, yet it would be
advancing too far within the region of conjecture, in this place, to
attempt to _decide_ whether it has any communication with the western
waters. I shall therefore reserve this discussion till the last; that
it may not be allowed to have any weight in the decision of the great
question concerning the continuity and direction of the Niger. Having
therefore, as I conceive, established the fact of a _continuation_
of the waters from Manding to Wangara, I shall next proceed to inquire
into the authorities for the direction of the stream.
2. _The Direction of the Course of the Niger._
Ocular demonstration has shewn, that its course is to the _eastward_,
as far as Silla: and no reasonable doubt can be entertained that
it continues the same course to Houssa, 400 miles farther to the
eastward, even if the information communicated to Mr. Park, could be
doubted. For the Moorish merchant before quoted, told Mr. Beaufoy, that
he had himself _descended_ the Joliba, from Kabra to Houssa, although
he had forgot the exact number of days employed in the navigation;
and whether it was 8 or 10 days, (Mr. Park was told 11). But one
circumstance dwelt on his mind; which was, that “by the favour of a
brisk wind, they returned to Kabra, _against the stream_, in as short
an interval as they went down.” (This is no new fact to those who
are accustomed to inland navigations, even of the natural kind.)
The same Moor added, “that from Houssa, _going still with the
stream_, boats went to Jinnee[148] and Ghinea; near the latter of which
was the _sea_, into which the _Neel_ (or Niger) discharged itself.”
That this Ghinea lies to the eastward of Houssa and Tombuctoo, has
been already shewn; and that at the distance of 40 land journies.
Edrisi says that the navigation from Ghana to Tirka (which latter
is in the way to Wangara, admitted by the same authority to lie to
the east of Ghana[149]) is _with the stream_ of the Niger:[150] and
if this be true, it ought unquestionably to have the same direction
all the way from Houssa.
To these notices, of which the most full and positive, is that of an
intelligent person who had visited the spot; are to be opposed the
reports of Edrisi and Abulfeda, who wrote at a distance, and from
the information of others. As to Leo, although his _declaration_
is in favour of the two Arabian geographers, yet his authority loses
all its weight, by his saying that the river runs to the _west, by
Tombuctoo_; a fact which, I presume, no one will be hardy enough to
contend for. And it will be found, that his _descriptions_ do most
completely do away his _declaration_: so that his testimony is turned
against himself by the very context. For after saying that it runs
_towards_ the kingdoms of Ginea and Melli, he says also that they lie
to the _west_, in respect of Tombuctoo. Now the contrary has already
been made apparent, in page lxv, _et seq._; so that in fact, Leo’s
descriptions go rather to prove, that the course of the Niger is to
the _east_, than to the _west_. But after all, his descriptions are
the result of hearsay, rather than of observation: and it is plain,
that his idea of the course of the Niger, was regulated by the supposed
situation of the countries it ran through. Nor had he in his mind the
Coast of Guinea, according to our acceptation of the term, when he
spoke of the country of Ginea: for in his description of Nigritia he
says, that the _sea_ on the _south_, was unknown[151] to him. Thus
the testimonies appear to be clearly in favour of an _easterly_
course of the Niger from Houssa to Wangara. I next proceed to the
question respecting its termination.
3. _Concerning the Termination of the Niger._
Mr. Beaufoy’s Moor farther says, that “_below Ghinea_, is the
_sea_, into which the river of Tombuctoo disembogues itself.”
This may therefore be considered as the _prevailing idea_ at Houssa
and Tombuctoo, at which places he had resided, altogether, about
12 years. By the word _sea_, it is well known, the Arabs mean to
express a lake also; (and even sometimes a river.) Edrisi and others
describe large lakes in Ghana and Wangara.[152] And when Leo says
that the Niger falls into the _sea_ which _borders_ on _Ginea_, it
is not improbable that the lakes of Ghana and Wangara are meant; and
that he was under the same mistake _here_, in supposing Ginea to be
in the neighbourhood of the sea, as in what relates to the position
of Ginea itself. In other words, that hearing from the natives,
that the Niger expanded itself into lakes _below Ghana_ (or Ginea),
he supposed the western ocean to be meant. For it appears (p. 2.) that
_he had heard_, that the Niger had its source in the mountains on the
_west_, and running thence to the _east_, expanded itself finally into
a vast lake: but misled by the supposed situation of Ginea and Melli,
he disregarded the information.
He also describes Ginea to be a country annually overflowed by
the waters of the Niger, but omits to say the same of Wangara, to
which the description more particularly applies. It may be, that
as Wangara in more early times formed a part of the empire of Ghana
(or Ginea), his ideas might have been collected from some history of
those times. I therefore consider his description of Ginea (p. 248),
to include both Ghana and Wangara.
Edrisi describes three large _fresh water_ lakes in Wangara, and
one in Ghana.[153] The description of Wangara appears to be that of
an _alluvial_ country, environed and intersected by the branches of
the Niger, and annually overflowed in August. Perhaps August was the
time of the highest flood: for Leo says that Ginea (apply this to
Wangara, also) is overflowed in July, August, and September; which is
indeed the season of swelling of the rivers of the tropical regions,
generally.[154]
From this description may be inferred the very _low level_ of
the countries of Ghana and Wangara; which level or hollow forms a
receptacle for the surplus waters of the Niger, collected during
the rainy season:[155] and whose _permanent_ lakes, apparently form
receptacles for its waters, during the dry season also. The country of
Wangara alone, is said by Edrisi and Ibn Al Wardi to have an extent
of 300 miles by 150 (_i.e._ Arabic miles, of 56⅔ to a degree);
and Edrisi’s statement of the distances through it, proves that
its length lies in the same direction with the course of the Niger;
that is, from _west_ to _east_[156] Now I have no kind of difficulty
in supposing that _any_ river may be evaporated, provided it is spread
out to a sufficient extent of surface: and it may be that the level,
or hollow, of Wangara and part of Ghana, may present an extent of
surface sufficient to produce this effect.[157] And hence these
countries must be regarded as the _sink_ of North Africa, at all
seasons. No doubt the inhabitants are amply repaid by the fertility
produced by the deposition of the waters: but besides this, in the
southern quarter of Wangara, they collect an incredible quantity of
gold sand, after the waters are gone off, which is carefully sought
after, as soon as the rivers regain their beds.[158]
It may be proper to observe, that, according to the estimation which
we ought to make, of the quantity of water collected into the Niger,
it ought not to bear a proportion to that, collected into the great
tropical rivers of Asia; since it receives no branches, but on _one_
side. Of course, it does not drain so great a surface of country,
as those which receive them on both sides. Moreover it drains only
the tract situated to _leeward_ of the great chain of mountains,
which opposes the main body of the clouds; so that more water is
discharged by the south, by the rivers of the Coast of Guinea, than
by the _inland_ rivers; or by those of Senegal and Gambia.
Ben Ali reported to Mr. Beaufoy, that “it was believed, that the
Tombuctoo river _terminated_ in a _lake_ in the Desert.”
On the whole, it can scarcely be doubted that the Joliba or Niger
terminates in lakes, in the eastern quarter of Africa; and those
lakes seem to be situated in Wangara and Ghana. That it does not
form the _upper part_ of the Egyptian Nile, may be collected from
_two_ circumstances: first, the great _difference_ of _level_ that
must necessarily exist, between the Niger and the Nile, admitting
that the Niger reached the country of Abyssinia. For by that time,
it would have run at least 2300 G. miles, in a direct line; and
near 2000, after it had _descended_ to the _level_ of Sahara,
or Great Desert. And the Nile, at the point where the White River
(which, alone can be taken for the Niger, if the idea of a junction
be admitted) falls in, has more than a thousand such miles to run,
before it reaches the sea; and has moreover two or more _cataracts_ to
descend, in its way. Besides, Abyssinia is positively a _very elevated
tract_. Mr. Bruce, (Vol. iii. p. 642.) inferred from his barometer,
that the level of the source of the Nile, in Gojam, was more than _two_
miles above the level of the sea: and this is repeated in pages 652,
and 712; where he says “fully” two miles.
Again, in p. 719, he says, that the _flat_ country of Sennar is _more
than a mile_ lower than the high country of Abyssinia, from whence
(says he) the Nile runs with “_little descent_” into Egypt. Hence,
the country of Sennar, and the mouth of the White River, of course, may
be reckoned _about a mile_, above the level of the sea. It may however
be asked, how this agrees with the idea of an easy descent?[159]
The second circumstance is, that the Niger throughout the tract of
Nigritia, in common with all the rivers of that region, swells with
the periodical rains, and is at its _highest pitch_, when the Nile
is under the like circumstances in Egypt. Now, considering how long
a time it would require, for the waters of Nigritia to reach Egypt,
the effect ought surely to be, that instead of what happens, at
present, the Nile ought to be kept up to nearly its highest pitch,
_a very long time_ after the Niger.
Nor can I believe with P. Sicard and M. D’Anville, that the waters
of Kauga and Bornou communicate with the river of Egypt. P. Sicard,
it appears, had learnt from a _native_ of Bornou, that the river which
passed the capital of _his_ country, communicated with the _Nile_,
during the time of the inundation, by the medium of the _Bahr Azrac_,
or Blue River.[160] M. D’Anville supposed this _Nile_ to be meant for
the river of Egypt; and the communication to be effected by the medium
of the lake of Kauga; and that it flowed into the White River opposite
Sennar. But the space of several hundred miles, which intervenes
between this lake and the White River, is very unfavourable to such an
opinion; even if the _levels_ could be supposed to allow it. I rather
conceive, that Sicard, not aware of the extensive application of the
term _Neel_, or _Nile_ (which in Africa seems to mean any great river),
concluded that the river of Egypt alone, could be intended; whereas,
I have no doubt but that the river which passes near Kauga and Angimi,
was meant: (no matter whether it joins the Niger, or otherwise;) for
Edrisi says, that Angimi, in Kanem, situated near the borders of Nubia,
is only three journies from the _Nile_ (implied to be _that_ of the
_Negroes_, that is, the _Niger_).[161] But Angimi must be more than 20
journies to the westward of Dongola, situated on the Egyptian Nile;
for Zagua is 20 journies from Dongola to the _west_,[162] and Angimi
6 from Zagua,[163] in a direction, which at least, _increases_ the
distance. Besides, a river of the name of _Nile_, or _Neel_, passes
by Kauga,[164] which is 30 days to the south-westward of Dongola:
and apparently about six from Angimi. Doubtless, this is the Nile
intended by the informant of P. Sicard; and can have no relation to
the Egyptian Nile, otherwise than in _name_.
But in the notices respecting the _western_ course of a river, or
rivers, from the confines of Nubia, Bornou, &c. I think I perceive
abundant reason for belief, that such a course of waters does really
exist; although perhaps, not exactly in the mode described.[165] There
are notices of a considerable river in Bornou (or Kanem) called the
Wad-al-Gazel, or River of the Antelopes, said to join the Nile during
the time of the inundations:[166] of another at Kuku, more to the
north, said to take its course _southward_, to the Nile.[167] Also,
of _a_ Nile near Angimi and Kauga, before spoken of. And finally,
Edrisi[168] says, that a branch of the Egyptian Nile, issuing from
the great lake at Tumi, in the south, forms the head of the Niger,
or Nile of the Negroes.[169]
Here it is well worth remarking, that Ptolemy describes a branch
springing from the SE about the parallel of 10°, and amongst the
_Nubi_, which branch flows into the _Gir_, a river distinct from the
Niger, and appearing to answer to the river of Bornou, &c. This accords
exactly with Edrisi’s idea; only that it does _not_ flow from the
_same lake_ as the Nile, separated from it only by a mountain. But
M. D’Anville, in my idea, interprets very fairly the scope of the
intelligence furnished by Edrisi, by supposing that the _sources_
of the two rivers (or the _courses_ of them) were _separated_ only
by a ridge of mountains.[170]
Leo says, that the head of the Niger is within 120 miles of the
country of Bornou, and in the Desert of Seu:[171] but these notices
must be regarded as extremely vague.
Certain it is, that if the _eastern waters_ of _Nigritia_ do not
run into the Nile (of which, in our idea, there does not appear
a shadow of probability) they must either be evaporated in lakes,
or lost in sands. The lake of Kauga offers itself in a position very
convenient for the purpose, and a river taken by Edrisi for the Niger,
is actually said to pass near it. It has also been shewn, that in the
idea of Edrisi, the Kauga lake communicated with the _western_ waters:
but whether this is true, or otherwise, it is not possible to decide.
I do not pretend to follow Ptolemy in his description of the rivers
in the interior of Africa, with that precision which M. D’Anville
has attempted: but _this_ circumstance is clear enough, that he
describes them to _terminate_, as well as to _begin_, _within_ the
continent. The same is to be said of Agathemerus.
It is apparent, that Ptolemy has carried the head of the Niger seven
degrees too far to the _north_, and about four, or more, too far to the
_west_: as also that his _inland_ positions in Africa, as well along
the Niger, as at a distance from it, are yet _more_ to the west of the
truth. But notwithstanding this geographical error, he proves that he
knew many facts relating to the descriptive part of the subject. For
instance, he places the source of the Niger, at the mountains of
_Mandrus_, and amongst the nation of the _Mandori_. It has been seen,
that the Joliba rises in the country adjacent to Manding. He marks also
a large adjunct to the Niger, from amongst the _Maurali_, in the south,
answering to the river from Malel (or Melli) in Edrisi. To these may
be added another particular of agreement. The _Caphas_ mountains of
Ptolemy seem meant for those of _Kaffaba_, a country 9 or 10 journies
to the eastward of Kong; 18 short of Assentai (or Ashantee) near the
Coast of Guinea.[172] But I have a doubt where to place Ptolemy’s
metropolis of Nigritia, in modern geography. His ideas, however,
corroborate in the strongest manner, the present system of geography.
Amongst the eastern waters, the _Gir_ of Ptolemy, seems to be
recognized in the river of Bornou, and its adjuncts: the Niger, in that
of Tombuctoo and Wangara. The _Panagra_ of the same geographer answers
to Wangara; and his _Libya Palus_, which forms the _termination_
of the Niger, eastward, seems to be meant, either for the largest
of the lakes, or for the lakes of that country (of which there are
several), _collectively_. It is no impeachment of this opinion, that
the _Libya Palus_ is placed so far to the west as the meridian of
Carthage, whilst the lakes of Wangara appear to be in that of Cyrene:
for Ptolemy carries the river Gir, and the capital of the country
which represents Bornou, into the centre of Africa; by which he has
_shortened_ the course of the Niger, in the same proportion as he
had _extended_ that of the Gir, or Wad-al-Gazel. Modern geographers,
to the time of D’Anville, were guilty of the same kind of error:
Ghana is about 6° too far west, in Delisle’s map.
It may be best to omit any farther remarks on Ptolemy, at present,
and to wait the result of future discoveries. In the mean time, those
who are curious to read M. D’Anville’s Memoir on the subject
of “the Rivers in the interior of Africa,” will find it in the
Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi.
[Footnote 137: Page 7 of Edrisi.]
[Footnote 138: Article _Soudan_.]
[Footnote 139: Edrisi, page 7.]
[Footnote 140: Mr. Beaufoy’s MSS.]
[Footnote 141: Edrisi, p. 7. 11. and 12.]
[Footnote 142: Hartmann’s Edrisi, p. 48, notes.]
[Footnote 143: Edrisi, p. 11.]
[Footnote 144: Ib. p. 11.]
[Footnote 145: If this report of Leo has any _particular meaning_,
and as the river in question carries a great body of water at all
seasons, one must suppose that there are _falls_ or _rapids_, in the
river, when in its low state. Time may discover.]
[Footnote 146: Hartmann, p. 32, 48, 51.]
[Footnote 147: Edrisi, p. 7, and 13.]
[Footnote 148: It is certain that one city of Jinné or Jinnee stands
_above_ Tombuctoo and Houssa.]
[Footnote 149: Edrisi, p. 9, 11, and 12.]
[Footnote 150: Sionita, p. 12, translates the passage thus: “_Via
cursum Nili comitante_.” And Hartmann, p. 51, “_Nilum sequere_.”
D’Herbelot understood the same thing; article _Vankara_.]
[Footnote 151: Leo, p. 2.]
[Footnote 152: Edrisi, p. 10, 12, 13.]
[Footnote 153: See Edrisi, p. 10, 11, 12, 13.]
[Footnote 154: Ib. p. 11, _et seq._ Hartmann, p. 47, _et seq._]
[Footnote 155: And that probably, not only for the western waters,
alone, but for the _eastern_ also.]
[Footnote 156: Refer to Edrisi, p. 12, and 13; and to page lx above.]
[Footnote 157: There are many instances of this kind. In particular the
_Hindmend_, or _Heermund_, a very considerable river of _Sigistan_,
terminates in the lake of Zurrah (_Aria Palus_). The lake is about
100 miles long, and 20 broad, at the widest part; and is said to be
_fresh_. The country it flows through, has all the characteristics
of the alluvial tracts, at the mouths of great rivers; as Egypt,
Bengal, &c. and is environed by mountains. This was the celebrated
tract which is said to have formed the _appanage_ of _Rustum_; and
whose inhabitants, from the relief they afforded to CYRUS, were named
_Euergetæ_ by Alexander.]
[Footnote 158: Edrisi, p. 12. D’Herbelot, article Vankara.]
[Footnote 159: Mr. Bruce mentions eight cataracts of the Nile; of
which, _two_ only are _below_ Sennar. (Vol. iii. p. 644, _et seq._)
M. D’Anville marks _three_ within the same space. The principal
cataracts are those formed by the abrupt descent from the _upper_
level of Gojam, to the _intermediate_ one of Sennar; one of them
being 280 feet. (See page 647.)]
[Footnote 160: Mém. Acad. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67. _Azrac_, or
_blue_, is a term applied to certain rivers, by the Arabs, as _Melas_,
or _black_, by the Greeks. It is applied in Abyssinia to the eastern
branch of the Nile, seemingly in contradistinction to the _Bahr Abiad_,
or _White_ River; whose waters are _muddy_, whilst those of the other
are remarkably _clear_.]
[Footnote 161: Edrisi, p. 14.]
[Footnote 162: Abulfeda, article Soudan.]
[Footnote 163: Edrisi, p. 14.]
[Footnote 164: Edrisi. p. 7.]
[Footnote 165: I am aware that Mr. Beaufoy was told that the river of
Bornou runs to the NW, into the Desert of Bilma. [Af. Assoc. Q. p. 142:
O. 215.]]
[Footnote 166: D’Anville, Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 67.]
[Footnote 167: Edrisi, p. 13.]
[Footnote 168: Ib. p. 16.]
[Footnote 169: It appears that a report of the same kind was
communicated to Mr. Beaufoy; namely, that a branch of the _Egyptian_
Nile _runs into_ the Desert of Bilma. (Af. Assoc. Q. p. 138:
O. p. 209.) There does not, however, appear to be any foundation
for believing that the Nile sends forth any branch above Egypt. All
the notices of this kind may with more probability, be referred to
a communication with the waters of _Kauga_.]
[Footnote 170: Mém. Inscrip. Vol. xxvi. p. 66.]
[Footnote 171: Page 2. 255.]
[Footnote 172: Af. Assoc. 1790, ch. xii.]
CHAPTER VII.
_Observations on the_ physical _and_ political _Geography of North
Africa — Naturally divisible into three Parts — Productive in
Gold — Boundary of the Moors and Negroes — the Foulahs, the_
Leucæthiopes _of the Ancients._
To our view, North Africa appears to be composed of three distinct
parts or members. The FIRST and smallest is a fertile region along the
Mediterranean, lying opposite to Spain, France, and Italy (commonly
distinguished by the name of Barbary); and which, could we suppose
the western bason of the Mediterranean to have once been _dry land_,
(bating a lake or recipient for the surrounding rivers), might be
regarded as a part of Europe; as possessing much more of the European,
than the African character.
The SECOND part is what may be deemed the _body_ of North Africa,
comprized between the Red Sea, and Cape Verd, on the east and
west; and having the Great Desert (or _Sahara_) and its members,
on the north; the Ethiopic ocean, and South Africa, on the opposite
side. The prominent feature of this immense region, is a vast _belt of
elevated land_, of great breadth, often swelling into lofty mountains,
and running generally from west to east, about the tenth degree of
latitude. Its western extremity seems to be C. Verd; the mountains of
Abyssinia, the eastern. To the north, its ramifications are neither
numerous, nor extensive, if we except the elevated tract which turns
the Nile to the northward, beyond Abyssinia. Towards the south,
no particulars are known, save that a multitude of rivers, some of
them very large, descend from that side, and join the Atlantic and
Ethiopic seas, from the Rio Grande on the west, to Cape Lopez on the
east; proving incontestably that by far the greatest proportion of
rain water falls on that side, during the periodical season of the
SW winds; which corresponds in all its circumstances with the same
monsoon in India.[173]
To the north of this belt, with the exception of the Egyptian Nile,
the waters conform generally to the direction of the high land;
passing at no great distance (comparatively) from its base, to the
right and left: as if the surface of the Sahara had a general dip to
the southward.[174] These rivers, moreover, receive all their supplies
from the south; no streams of any bulk being collected in the Desert.
In order to produce this effect, there must necessarily be a vast
hollow in the interior of Africa, between the high land of Nubia on the
east, and Manding on the west; and of which the mountains and Desert
form the other two sides. Nor is this state of things unexampled
in the other continents. In Asia, the _hollow_, to whose waters the
Caspian and Aral serve as recipients, is no less extensive than the
one just mentioned; reckoning from the sources of the Wolga to those
of the Oxus; (which latter has ever communicated with the Caspian,
either throughout the year, or during a part of it:) the difference is,
that in Asia, a greater portion of the hollow is filled up with water,
than in Africa.
The THIRD part is of course, the Great Desert (or Sahara), and its
members; consisting of the lesser deserts of Bornou, Bilma, Barca,
Sort, &c. This may be considered as an OCEAN OF SAND,[175] presenting a
surface equal in extent to about _one half of Europe_, and having its
gulfs, and bays; as also its islands, fertile in groves and pastures,
and in many instances containing a great population, subject to order
and regular government. The great body, or _western_ division of this
OCEAN, comprized between Fezzan and the Atlantic, is no less than
50 caravan journies across, from north to south; or from 750 to 800
G. miles; and double that extent, in length: without doubt the largest
desert in the world. This division contains but a scanty portion of
islands (or oases) and those also of small extent: but the eastern
division has many; and some of them very large. Fezzan, Gadamis,
Taboo, Ghanat, Agadez, Augela, Berdoa, are amongst the principal ones:
besides which, there are a vast number of small ones. In effect,
this is the part of Africa alluded to by Strabo,[176] when he says
from _Cneius Piso_, that Africa may be compared to a leopard’s
skin. I conceive the reason why the oases are more common here,
than in the west, is, that the _stratum_ of sand is _shallower_, from
_its_ surface, to that of the earth which it covers. In other words,
that the water contained in that earth, is nearer to the surface;
as in most of the oases it springs up spontaneously.[177] Can any
part of the cause be assigned to the prevalent easterly winds, which,
by driving the finer particles of sand to leeward, may have heaped
it up to a higher level in the Sahara, than elsewhere?[178]
The springs, no doubt, have _produced_ the oases themselves, by
enabling useful vegetables to flourish, and consequently population
to be established. That the Desert has a _dip_ towards the east,
as well as the south, seems to be proved by the course of the Niger,
also. Moreover, the highest points of North Africa, that is to say,
the mountains of Mandinga and Atlas, are situated very far to the west.
The Desert, for the most part, abounds with salt. But we hear of salt
_mines_ only, in the part contiguous to Nigritia, from whence salt
is drawn for the use of those countries, as well as of the Moorish
states adjoining; there being no salt in the Negro countries south
of the Niger.[179] There are salt _lakes_ also, in the eastern part
of the Desert.
The great ridge of mountains, and its branches, are very productive in
_gold_; but more particularly in the quarters opposite to Manding and
Bambouk on the west, and Wangara, on the east. It may perhaps admit
of a doubt, whether the gold is brought down at the present time, by
the numerous fountains that form the heads of the Niger and Senegal
rivers; or whether it has been deposited in the lower parts of their
beds, at an earlier period of the world; and that the search, instead
of being facilitated by the periodical floods, is, on the contrary,
only to be pursued with effect, when the waters are low.
Tombuctoo is reckoned the mart of the Mandinga gold, from whence
it is distributed over the northern quarters of Africa, by the
merchants of Tunis, Tripoly, Fezzan, and Morocco; all of whom resort
to Tombuctoo. Most of it, no doubt, afterwards finds its way into
Europe. It may be remarked, also, that the _Gold Coast_ of Guinea (so
called, doubtless, from its being the place of traffic for gold dust),
is situated nearly opposite to Manding: but whether the gold brought
thither, has been washed out of the mountains, by the _northern_
or _southern_ streams, I know not: it may be by both; for a part of
the gold of Wangara is brought for sale to the southern coast.[180]
Degombah, another country, said to be very productive in gold,[181]
must, by its situation, lie directly opposite to the Gold Coast: for
it lies immediately to the east of Kong (the Gonjah of Mr. Beaufoy, and
the Conche of D’Anville).[182] The people of Fezzan trade to Kong.
The triangular hilly tract above commemorated, (p. xix.) which projects
northward from the highest part of the belt, and contains Manding,
Bambouk, &c. is also abundant in gold; particularly in the quarter
towards Bambouk, where it is found in mines; and that chiefly in the
middle level.[183] (See also, p. xix.)
Wangara appears to have been, in its time, nearly as rich as Manding
in this metal. The Arabs name it _Belad al Tebr_, or the _country
of gold_.[184] Edrisi, Ibn al Wardi, and Leo, bear testimony to
its riches. They say that the gold is found in the sands, after the
periodical inundation of the Niger (which is general over the country)
is abated.[185] Leo, alone,[186] says, that the gold is found in the
_southern_ quarter of the kingdom; which appears very probable, as the
mountains lie on that side: so that it may be concluded, that the gold
sand has not been brought there by the Niger, but by smaller rivers
that descend immediately from those mountains. That a part of Wangara
is bounded by mountains, we learn from Edrisi: for the lake on which
Reghebil stands, has mountains hanging over its southern shore.[187]
It is supposed that most of the countries bordering on these
mountains, share in the riches contained within them, by means of
the rivulets.[188] But considering how amazingly productive in gold,
the streams of this region are, it is wonderful that Pliny should
not mention the Niger amongst the rivers that roll down golden sands:
for although he speaks of the Tagus and others, in different quarters,
no African river is mentioned.[189] And yet Herodotus knew that the
Carthaginians bartered their goods for gold, with the Africans on
the sea coast, beyond the Pillars of Hercules: which was contrived
without the parties seeing each other.[190]
The common boundary of the MOORS and NEGROES, in Africa, forms
a striking feature, as well in the moral, as the political and
physical, geography of this continent. The Moors, descendants of Arabs,
intermixed with the various colonists of Africa, from the earliest to
the latest times, overspread the habitable parts of the Desert, and the
oases within it: and have pushed their conquests and establishments
southward; pressing on the Negro aborigines, who have in several
instances retired to the southward of the great rivers; but in others,
preserve their footing on the side towards the Desert; according to
the strength, or openness of the situation. It is probable, however,
that the Negroes, who are an agricultural people, never possessed any
_considerable_ portion of the Desert, which is so much better suited
to the pastoral life of the Moors. It appears as if matters had not
undergone much change in this respect, since the days of Herodotus; who
fixes the boundary of the LIBYANS and ETHIOPIANS, in other words, of
the MOORS and NEGROES, near the borders of the Niger; and he apparently
pointed to the quarter in which Kassina or Ghana are now situated.[191]
The Negroes in the western quarter of the continent, are of two
distinct races, of which the least numerous are named FOULAHS,
or FOOLAHS. These, although they partake much of the Negro form
and complexion, have neither their _jetty_ colour, _thick lips_, or
_crisped_ hair. They have also a language distinct from the Mandinga,
which is the prevailing one, in this quarter.
The original country of the Foulahs is said to be a tract of no
great extent along the eastern branch of the Senegal river; situated
between Manding and Kasson; Bambouk and Kaarta: and which bears
the name of FOOLA-DOO, or the country of the Foulahs. But whether
this be really the case, or whether they might not have come from
the country within Serra Leona (called also the _Foulah_ country),
may be a question; of which, more in the sequel. The Foulahs occupy,
at least as sovereigns, several provinces or kingdoms, interspersed
throughout the tract, comprehended between the mountainous border of
the country of Serra Leona, on the west, and that of Tombuctoo, on the
east; as also, a large tract on the lower part of the Senegal river:
and these provinces are insulated from each other in a very remarkable
manner. Their religion is Mahomedanism, but with a great mixture of
Paganism; and with less intolerance than is practiced by the Moors.
The principal of the Foulah States, is that within Serra Leona; and
of which Teemboo is the capital. The next, in order, appears to be
that bordering on the south of the Senegal river, and on the Jaloffs:
and which is properly named Siratik. Others of less note, are Bondou,
with Foota-Torra, adjacent to it, lying between the rivers Gambia and
Falemé; Foola-doo, and Brooko, along the upper part of the Senegal
river; Wassela, beyond the upper part of the Niger; and Massina,
lower down on the same river, and joining to Tombuctoo on the west.
The Moors have in very few instances, established themselves on the
south of the great rivers. They have advanced _farthest_ to the _south_
in the western quarter of Africa; so that the common boundary of the
two races, passes, in respect of the parallels on the globe, with a
considerable degree of obliquity, to the north, in its way from the
river Senegal towards Nubia, and the Nile.[192] Mr. Park arranges the
Moorish States which form the _frontier_ towards Nigritia, together
with the Negro states opposed to them, on the south, in the line of
his progress, in the following order:
The small Moorish state of Gedumah, situated on the north bank of the
Senegal river, and the last that touches on it,[193] is opposed to the
small Negro kingdom of Kajaaga, on the south. This latter occupies
the extremity of the navigable course of the Senegal, terminated in
this place, by the cataract of F’low.
From this point, the Negro and Foulah states occupy _both_ banks of
the Senegal river, to its source: and beyond that, _both_ banks of
the Niger (or Joliba) likewise, to the lake Dibbie, situated beyond
the term of Mr. Park’s expedition. This space is divided, unequally,
between Kasson, a hilly strong country, but of small extent; and which
has the Moors of Jaffnoo on the north: Kaarta, a considerable state,
which has Ludamar for its opposite (a country held by Ali, a Moorish
prince, who is loaded with infamy, on the score of maltreatment of the
only two Europeans, who appear to have entered his country, in latter
times): Bambara, of still more consideration, which has on the north,
the Moorish kingdom of Beeroo, and Massina, a Foulah state.
Here Mr. Park’s personal knowledge ends; but he learnt that Tombuctoo
and Houssa, which succeed in order, to Massina, and occupy both sides
of the Niger, are Moorish states, though with the greatest proportion
of Negro subjects: so that the river may be considered as the boundary
of the two races in this quarter.[194]
Of the countries between Houssa and Kassina we are ignorant. The
Desert seems to approach very near the river (Niger) in that quarter,
whence a Moorish population may be inferred. South of the river,
we hear of Kaffaba, Gago, and other Negro countries; but without any
distinct notices of position; and beyond these, Melli.
Kassina and Bornou, two great empires on the north of the river,
appear to divide the largest portion of the remaining space, to the
borders of Nubia; and extend a great way to the north; this region
being composed of Desert and habitable country, intermixed; but
perhaps, containing the largest proportion of the latter. In both
these empires, the sovereigns are Mahomedans, but the bulk of their
subjects are said to adhere to their ancient worship; that is to say,
the lower orders are, almost universally, Negroes.[195]
From what has appeared, perhaps the boundary of Nigritia, as it
respects the Negro population, may be expressed generally, and with a
few exceptions, as follows: beginning from the west, the extent upwards
of the navigable course of the Senegal river, generally—thence,
a line drawn to Silla; from Silla to Tombuctoo, Houssa, and Berissa,
along the river Niger; and thence through Asouda, Kanem, and Kuku,
to Dongola, on the Nile.
Leo,[196] enumerates 12 states, or kingdoms of Nigritia: but amongst
these, he includes Gualata, a tract only 300 miles S of the river Nun:
as also, Cano (Ganat), adjacent to Fezzan; and Nubia. Kassina, Bornou,
and Tombuctoo, are included, of course.[197]
The kingdom of the Foulahs before mentioned, situated between
the upper part of the Gambia river, and the coast of Serra Leona,
and along the Rio Grande, has also a Mahomedan sovereign, but the
bulk of the people appear to be of the ancient religion. It has been
already said, that although they are a black people, they are less
black than the Negroes, generally, and have neither crisped hair,
nor thick lips: as also that they have a language distinct from the
Mandinga. From these circumstances, added to that of situation, they
appear clearly to be the _Leucæthiopes_ of Ptolemy and Pliny. The
former places them in the situation occupied by the Foulahs; that is,
in the parallel of 9 degrees north; having to the north, the mountains
of _Ryssadius_, which separate the courses of the _Stachir_ and _Nia_
rivers (Gambia and Rio Grande), and which therefore answer to the
continuation of the great belt of high land, in our geography; in
which there is, moreover, another point of agreement, the _Caphas_
of Ptolemy, being the _Caffaba_ of the map.[198]
Ptolemy, by the name, evidently meant to describe a people _less_
black than the generality of the _Ethiopians_; and hence it may
be gathered, that this nation had been traded with, and that some
notices respecting it, had been communicated to him. It may also be
remarked, that the navigation of HANNO, terminated on this coast;
probably at Sherbro’ river, or sound. And as this was also the
term of the knowledge of Ptolemy, it may be justly suspected that
this part of the coast was described from Carthaginian materials.[199]
Those who have perused the Journal of Messrs. Watt and Winterbottom,
through the Foulah country, in 1794, and recollect how flattering a
picture they give of the urbanity and hospitality of the Foulahs, will
be gratified on finding that this nation was known and distinguished
from the rest of the Ethiopians, at a remote period of antiquity.[200]
The contrast between the Moorish and Negro characters, is as great,
as that between the nature of their respective countries; or between
their form and complexion. The Moors appear to possess the vices
of the Arabs, without their virtues; and to avail themselves of
an intolerant religion, to oppress strangers: whilst the Negroes,
and especially the Mandingas, unable to comprehend a doctrine, that
substitutes opinion or belief, for the social duties, are content
to remain in their humble state of ignorance. The hospitality shewn
by these good people to Mr. Park, a destitute and forlorn stranger,
raises them very high in the scale of humanity: and I know of no
fitter title to confer on them, than that of the HINDOOS of AFRICA:
at the same time, by no means intending to degrade the MAHOMEDANS of
INDIA, by a comparison with the AFRICAN MOORS.
THE END.
[Footnote 173: A ridge stretches to the south, through the middle
of South Africa, and forms an impenetrable barrier between the two
coasts. M. CORREA DE SERRA informs me, that the Portugueze in Congo
and Angola, have never been able to penetrate to the coast of the
Indian ocean.
Mr. Bruce learnt (Vol. iii. p. 668.) that a high chain of mountains
from 6° runs southward through the middle of Africa. He supposes
the gold of Sofala to be drawn from these mountains. (p. 669.)]
[Footnote 174: Circumstances have shewn, that it declines to the
eastward also.]
[Footnote 175: “A wild expanse of lifeless sand and sky!” _Thomson._]
[Footnote 176: Page 130.]
[Footnote 177: Water is found at the depth of a few feet, in
Fezzan (Afr. Assoc. Q. p. 96: O. p. 146). The same is said by Pliny,
concerning this quarter of Africa; lib. v. c. 5. But farther to the NW,
on the edge of the Desert, and in the country of Wadreag in particular
(Shaw, p. 135.), wells are dug to an amazing depth, and water mixed
with fine sand, springs up suddenly, and sometimes fatally to the
workmen. The Doctor tells us, that the people call this abyss of
sand and water, “the sea below ground.” Exactly the same state
of things exists in the country round London, where the sand has
in several cases nearly filled up the wells. (See Phil. Trans. for
1797.) The famous well lately dug by EARL SPENCER (at Wimbledon), of
more than 560 feet in depth, has several hundred feet of sand in it.]
[Footnote 178: Ships that have sailed at a great distance from the
African coast, opposite to C. Blanco and C. Bojador, have had their
rigging filled with fine sand, when the wind blew strong off shore. The
accumulation of the _Bissago_ shoals may have been partly owing to
this cause also. They occupy the position where a great eddy of the
general southerly current takes place, between C. Verd and Sherbro’.]
[Footnote 179: This quality of the African Desert was familiarly known
to Herodotus (Melpom. c. 181, _et seq._) He knew also that there was
salt in abundance in the _northern_ parts. But as it would appear that
the inhabitants in that quarter can furnish themselves with salt of
a better quality from the sea, the mines are not wrought.]
[Footnote 180: Some writers have said, that there are gold _mines_
in the neighbourhood of Mina, on the Gold Coast; others, that the gold
is rolled down by the rivers to that neighbourhood. Both may be true.
It is difficult to conceive any other adequate cause, than the exchange
of the gold of the inland countries, for the introduction of so vast a
quantity of _kowry_ shells, which are carried from Europe to the Coast
of Guinea, and pass for small money in the countries along the Niger,
from Bambara to Kassina, both inclusive.
I am informed from authority, that about 100 tons of kowries are
annually shipped from England alone, to Guinea. These are originally
imported from the Maldive islands into Bengal; and from Bengal into
England. In Bengal, 2400, more or less, are equal to a shilling:
and yet notwithstanding the incredible smallness of the denomination,
some article in the market may be purchased for a single kowry. But in
the inland parts of Africa, they are about ten times as dear; varying
from 220 to 280. Mr. Beaufoy was told that in Kassina, they were at
the rate of about 250: and Mr. Park reports, that they are about the
same price at Sego: but _cheaper_ at Tombuctoo, which is about the
_centre_ of the kowry country; _dearer_ towards Manding, which is
the western extremity of it. Hence they are probably carried in the
first instance to Tombuctoo, the gold market: and thence distributed
to the east and west. Their circulation seems to be confined between
Bornou and Manding. In Bournou they have a coinage of base metal.]
[Footnote 181: African Assoc. Q. p. 176: O. p. 264.]
[Footnote 182: Mr. Park says that Kong signifies _mountain_, in the
Mandinga language; which language is in use from the frontier of
Bambara, to the western sea.]
[Footnote 183: Labat, Vol. iv. ch. 2.]
[Footnote 184: Bakui, and Herbelot; article Vankara.]
[Footnote 185: See Edrisi in particular, pages 11 and 12.]
[Footnote 186: Page 254.]
[Footnote 187: Edrisi, page 12.]
[Footnote 188: Mr. Bruce, Vol. iii. p. 647, says the same of the
mountains of Dyre and Tegla, which are a continuation of the great
belt, towards Abyssinia.]
[Footnote 189: Pliny, lib. xxxiii. c. 4.]
[Footnote 190: Melpomene, c. 196.
Dr. Shaw (p. 302) speaks of the same mode of traffic, at present,
between the Moors and Negroes: whence the place of traffic ought to
be very far removed from the Mediterranean. There is a similar story
related by Cadamosta of the exchange of salt for gold, in Melli;
and by Dr. Wadstrom on the windward coast of Guinea.]
[Footnote 191: See Euterpe, c. 32.; and Melpomene, c. 197.]
[Footnote 192: The common boundary of the Moors and Negroes, in the
map of Mr. Park’s route, is described by a blue line.]
[Footnote 193: The Moors appear to be masters of the northern bank
of the Senegal through the greatest part of its navigable course:
the Foulahs of the southern bank.]
[Footnote 194: The Emperor of Morocco is said to have held, at one
period, the sovereignty of some of the countries on the northern
banks of the Senegal and Niger rivers. Labat, Vol. iii. p. 339,
speaks of incursions made by his troops.]
[Footnote 195: Af. Assoc. Q. p. 126: O. p. 191.]
[Footnote 196: Page 4.]
[Footnote 197: The Arabs and Moors, call NIGRITIA by the general
name of SOUDAN. By _Belad Soudan_, or the country of Soudan,
Abulfeda includes all the known part of Africa, south of the Great
Desert, and Egypt. With him, Soudan is the southern quarter of the
globe. D’Herbelot also allows it a wide range. _Affnoo_ is another
term for Nigritia, in use amongst the natives themselves. (See also
Proceedings Af. Assoc. Q. p. 164: O. p. 246.)]
[Footnote 198: The _Soluentii_ of Ptolemy may also be meant for the
_Solimani_ of Mr. Park.]
[Footnote 199: And it may also have been the scene of the traffic
mentioned in page lxxxvii; as Dr. Wadstrom speaks of such a custom
in this quarter, at the present day.]
[Footnote 200: Pliny (lib. v. c. 8.) also speaks of the
_Leucæthiopes_, but seems to place them on _this side_ of
Nigritia. May it not be, that certain tribes of Foulahs were then
established, as at present, along the Senegal river!]
POSTSCRIPT.
The incident of the Negro Song, related in the 15th Chapter of this
work (p. 198), having been communicated to a Lady, who is not more
distinguished for her rank, than for her beauty and accomplishments;
she was pleased to think so highly of this simple and unpremeditated
effusion, as to make a version of it with her own pen; and cause it to
be set to music by an eminent Composer. With this elegant production,
in both parts of which the plaintive simplicity of the original is
preserved and improved, the Author thinks himself highly honoured in
being permitted to adorn his book; and he laments only that he had
not an opportunity of inserting it in its proper place in the body
of the work.
A NEGRO SONG,
FROM MR. PARK’S TRAVELS.
* * * * *
I.
The loud wind roar’d, the rain fell fast;
The White Man yielded to the blast:
He sat him down, beneath our tree;
For weary, sad, and faint was he;
And ah, no wife, or mother’s care,
For him, the milk or corn prepare:
CHORUS.
_The White Man, shall our pity share;_
_Alas, no wife or mother’s care,_
_For him, the milk or corn prepare._
II.
The storm is o’er; the tempest past;
And Mercy’s voice has hush’d the blast.
The wind is heard in whispers low;
The White Man, far away must go;—
But ever in his heart will bear
Remembrance of the Negro’s care.
CHORUS.
_Go, White Man, go;—but with thee bear_
_The Negro’s wish, the Negro’s prayer;_
_Remembrance of the Negro’s care._
[Music sheet: _SONG_ from Mr. Park’s Travels
_The Words by the Dutchess of Devonshire._
_The Music by G. G. Ferrari._]
Transcriber's note:
Changes in the ERRATA have been made.
pg 22 Changed: "dwelling houses the Mandigoes" to: "Mandingoes"
pg 34 Changed: "inhabitants are Mandigoes" to: "Mandingoes"
pg 39 Changed: "under all the cirumstances" to: "circumstances"
pg 98 Changed: "_Some Particu-culars concerning_" to: "_Particulars_"
pg 138 Changed: "compel me, though a Christain" to: "Christian"
pg 162 Changed: "(said he); “the boy" to: "(said he); the boy"
pg 172 Changed: "one way or the the other" to: "one way or the other"
pg 282 Changed: "aquired the proper shade" to: "acquired"
pg xvii (footnote a below ftn. 50) Changed: "arrangement of th
matter" to: "the"
pg xli Changed: "50 journies of he caravan" to: "the"
pg lviii (footnote 103) Changed: "Af. Assos." to: "Assoc."
pg lxv Changed: "means Barbary, call" to: "means Barbary) call"
pg lxxvi Changed: "may be proper to oberve" to: "observe"
pg lxxx Changed: "his decription of the rivers" to: "description"
Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.