to silvery, 3 in. long. The fur upon the necks usually runs dark,
almost black, and in some cases the fur is black half-way down the
length of the skin, in rarer cases three-quarters of the length and,
in the most exceptional instances, the whole length, and when this is
the case they are known as "Natural Black Foxes" and fetch enormous
prices. The even silvery sorts are highly esteemed, and the fur is one
of the most effective and precious. The finest are taken in Labrador.
The farther south they are found, the poorer and coarser the fur. The
brush has invariably a white tip. Value L1 to L320.
FOX, WHITE.--Size 20 X 7 in. Animals of this species are generally
small in size and inhabit the extreme northern sections of Hudson Bay,
Newfoundland, Greenland, Labrador and Siberia. The Canadian are silky
in nature and inclined to a creamy colour, while the Siberian are more
woolly and rather whiter. Those taken in central Asia near or in
Chinese territory are poorer and yellowish. The underwool in all sorts
is generally of a bluish-grey tone, but the top hair in the depth of
winter is usually full enough in quantity to hide any such variation.
Those skins in which the underwool is quite white are rare and much
more expensive. In summer specimens of this species, as with other
white furred animals, have slightly discoloured coats. The skins that
are not perfectly white are dyed jet black, dark or light smoke,
violet-blue, blue-grey, and also in imitation of the drab shades of
the natural blue. Value 18s. to 66s.
GENET.--Size 10 X 4 in. The genet proper is a small white spotted cat
found in Europe, but the quantity is too small to be of commercial
interest. The name has been adopted for the black cats used so much in
the trade. (See CATS, above.) Value 1s. to 6s. 6d.
GOATS.--Size varies greatly. The European, Arabian and East Indian
kinds are seldom used for rugs, the skins are chiefly dressed as
leather for books and furniture, and the kids for boots and gloves,
and the finer wool and hair are woven into various materials. Many
from Russia are dyed black for floor and carriage rugs; the hair is
brittle, with poor underwool and not very durable; the cost, however,
is small. The Chinese export thousands of similar skins in black, grey
and white, usually ready dressed and made into rugs of two skins each.
A great many are dyed black and brown, in imitation of bear, and are
used largely in the western parts of the United States and Canada for
sleigh and carriage rugs. Many are used for their leather. Thousands
of the kids are also dyed black and worked into cross-shaped pieces,
in which shape they are largely exported to Germany, France, Great
Britain and America, and sold by the retail as caracal, kid or
caracul. The grey ones are in good demand for motor coats. The word
caracul has been adopted from the Turkish and signifies black-eared.
See also LAMBS, CARACUL. Value of Chinese white 3s. 6d. to 6s. 6d.:
grey, 4s. to 6s. 9d.
The Angora from the heights of central Asia Minor has curly, fleecy,
silky, white wool, 4 to 7 in. long. The fur is not used in Great
Britain, as formerly, and the greater quantity, known as mohair, is
now imported for purposes of weaving. This species of goat was some
years since introduced into Cape Colony, but its wool is not so good
as the Asiatic breed. Good business, however, is done with the
product, but chiefly for leather. Value 4s. to 12s. 6d.
The Mongolian goat has a very soft silk underwool, and after the long
top hair is removed it is dressed and imported and erroneously named
mouflon. The colour is a light fawn, but it is so pale that it lends
itself to be dyed any colour. It was popular some years since in the
cheaper trade, but it is not now much seen in England. Value 2s. to
6s.
The Tibet goat is similar to the Angora in the fineness of its wool,
and many are used in the making of cashmere shawls. The Tibet lamb so
largely imported and used for children's wear is often miscalled Tibet
goat. Value 3s. to 7s. 6d.
GUANACO.--Size 30 X 15 in. Is a species of goat found in Patagonia and
other parts of South America. It has a very long neck and exceedingly
soft woolly fur of a light reddish-fawn colour with very white flanks.
It is usually imported in small quantities, native dressed, and ready
made into rugs. The dressing is hard and brittle. If the skins are
dressed in Europe they afford a very comfortable rug, though a very
marked one in effect. They have a similar wool to the vicuna, but
coarser and redder; both are largely used in South America. Value 1s.
to 4s. 6d.
HAMSTER.--Size 8 X 3-1/2 in. A destructive rodent, is found in great
numbers in Russia and Germany. The fur is very flat and poor, of a
yellowish pale brown with a little marking of black. Being of a light
weight it is used for linings. Value 3d. to 1s.
HARE.--Size 24 X 9 in. The common hare of Europe does not much
interest the furrier, the fur being chiefly used by makers of hatters'
felt. The white hares, however, of Russia, Siberia and other regions
in the Arctic circle are very largely used in the cheaper trade of
Europe, America and the British colonies. The fur is of the whitest
when killed in winter, and that upon the flanks of the animal is very
much longer than that upon its back. The flanks are usually cut off
and made into muffs and stoles. The hair is, however, brittle and is
not at all durable. This fur is dyed jet black and various shades of
brown and grey, and manufactured into articles for the small drapers
and for exportation. The North American hares are also dyed black and
brown and used in the same way. Value of white 2d. to 5d.
JACKAL.--Size 2 to 3 ft. long. Is found in India and north and south
Africa. Indian are light brown and reddish, those from the Cape are
dark grey and rather silvery. Few are imported. Fur generally poor and
harsh, only suitable for carriage rugs. Value 1s. to 3s. 6d.
JAGUAR.--Size 7 to 10 ft. long. Is found in Mexico and British
Honduras. The markings are an irregular ring formation with a spot in
the centre. Leopards have rings only and cheetahs solid spots.
Suitable only for hearth-rugs. Supply very limited. Value 5s. to 45s.
KALUGA.--See _Souslik_, below.
KANGAROO.--The sizes vary considerably, some being huge, others quite
small. The larger varieties, viz. the red and the great, do not
usually interest furriers, the fur being harsh and poor without
underwool. They are tanned for the leather trade. The sorts used for
carriage aprons, coat linings and the outside of motor coats include:
blue kangaroo, bush kangaroo, bridled kangaroo, wallaroo, yellow
kangaroo, rock wallaby, swamp wallaby and short-tailed wallaby. Many
of the swamp sort are dyed to imitate skunk and look well. Generally
the colours are yellowish or brown. Some are dark brown as in the
swamp, which being strong are suitable for motor coats. The rock
wallabies are soft and woolly and often of a pretty bluish tone, and
make moderately useful carriage rugs and perambulator aprons. The
redder and browner sorts are also good for rugs as they are thick in
the pelt. On the European continent many of these are dyed. The best
of the lighter weights are frequently insufficiently strong in the
hair to stand the friction of wear in a coat lining. Value, kangaroo
9d. to 3s., wallaby 1-1/2 d. to 5s. 3d., wallaroo 1s. to 5s. 6d.
KIDS.--See _Goats_, above.
KOLINSKY.--Size 12 X 2-1/2 in. Is one of the marten tribe. The
underwool is short and rather weak, but regular, as is also the top
hair; the colour is usually yellow. They have been successfully dyed
and used as a substitute for sable. They are found in Siberia, Amoor,
China and Japan, but the best are from Siberia. They are light in
weight and therefore suitable for linings of coats. The tails are used
for artists' "sable" brushes. The fur has often been designated as red
or Tatar sable. Value 1s. 6d. to 4s. 6d.
LAMBS.--The sorts that primarily interest the fur trade in Europe and
America are those from south Russia, Persia and Afghanistan, which are
included under the following wholesale or retail commercial terms:
Persian lamb, broadtail, astrachan, Shiraz, Bokharan and caracul lamb.
With the public the general term astrachan is an old one, embracing
all the above curly sorts; the flatter kinds, as broadtail and caracul
lamb, have always been named separately. The Persian lambs, size 18 X
9 in., are the finest and the best of them. When dressed and dyed they
should have regular, close and bright curl, varying from a small to a
very large one, and if of equal size, regularity, tightness and
brightness, the value is comparatively a matter of fancy. Those that
are dull and loose, or very coarse and flat in the curl, are of far
less market value.
All the above enumerated lambs are naturally a rusty black or brown,
and with very few exceptions are dyed a jet black. Lustre, however,
cannot be imparted unless the wool was originally of a silky nature.
Broadtails, size 10 X 5 in., are the very young of the Persian sheep,
and are killed before the wool has time to develop beyond the flat
wavy state which can be best compared to a piece of moire silk. They
are naturally exceedingly light in weight, and those that are of an
even pattern, possessing a lustrous sheen, are costly. There is,
notwithstanding, a great demand for these from the fashionable world,
as not only are they very effective, but being so flat in the wool the
figure of the wearer can be shown as perfectly as in a garment made of
silk. It cannot be regarded as an economical fur, as the pelt is too
delicate to resist hard wear.
Persian Lamb price 12s. 6d. to 25s.
Broadtail " 10s. " 35s.
Astrachan, Shiraz and Bokharan lambs, size 22 by 9 in., are of a
coarser, looser curl, and chiefly used for coat linings, while the
Persians are used for outside of garments, collars, cuffs, stoles,
muffs, hats and trimmings and gloves. The so-called caracul lambs,
size 12 X 6 in., are the very young of the astrachan sheep, and the
pick of them are almost as effective as broadtails, although less fine
in the texture. See also remarks as to caracul kid under Goats, above.
Astrachan price 1s. to 5s. 6d.
Caracul Lamb " 2s. 6d " 10s. 6d.
Shiraz " 4s. 6d " 10s.
Bokharan " 1s. 6d " 3s. 6d.
Grey lambs, size 24 X 10 in., are obtained from the Crimea and known
in the trade as "crimmers." They are of a similar nature to the
caracul lambs, but looser in curl, ranging from a very light to a dark
grey. The best are the pale bluish greys, and are chiefly used for
ladies' coats, stoles, muffs and hats. Price 2s. to 6s. Mongolian
lambs, size 24 X 15 in., are of a short wavy loose curl, creamy white
colour, and are usually exported from China dressed, the majority
being ready-made into cross-shaped coats or linings. They are used
principally for linings of good evening wraps for ladies. Price 1s. to
2s. 6d. Slink lambs come from South America and China. The former are
very small and generally those that are stillborn. They have a
particularly thin pelt with very close wool of minute curl. The China
sorts are much larger. The smallest are used for glove linings and the
others for opera cloak linings. Price 1s. to 6s. 6d.
LEOPARD.--Size 3 to 6 ft. long. There are several kinds, the chief
being the snow or ounce, Chinese, Bengal, Persian, East Indian and
African. The first variety inhabit the Himalayas and are beautifully
covered with a deep soft fur quite long compared to the flat harsh
hair of the Bengal sort. The colours are pale orange and white with
very dark markings, a strong contrast making a fine effect. Most
artists prize these skins above all others. The Chinese are of a
medium orange brown colour, but full in fur. The East Indian are less
full and not so dark. The Bengal are dark and medium in colour, short
and hard hair, but useful for floor rugs, as they do not hold the dust
like the fuller and softer hair of the kinds previously named. They
are also used for drummers' aprons and saddle cloths in the Indian
army. The African are small with pale lemon colour grounds very
closely marked with black spots on the skin, the strong contrast
making a pleasing effect. Occasionally, where something very marked is
wanted, skating jackets and carriage aprons are made from the softest
and flattest of skins, but usually they are made into settee covers,
floor rugs and foot muffs. Value 2s. to 40s.
LION.--Size 5 to 6 ft. long. These skins are found in Africa, Arabia
and part of India, and are every year becoming scarcer. They are only
used for floor rugs, and the males are more highly esteemed on account
of the set-off of the mane. Value, lions' L10 to L100; lionesses' L5
to L25.
LYNX.--Size 45 X 20 in. The underwool is thinner than fox, but the top
hair is fine, silky and flowing, 4 in. long, of a pale grey, slightly
mottled with fine streaks and dark spots. The fur upon the flanks is
longer and white with very pronounced markings of dark spots, and this
part of the skin is generally worked separately from the rest and is
very effective for gown trimmings. Where the colour is of a sandy and
reddish hue the value is far less than where it is of a bluish tone.
They inhabit North America as far south as California, also Norway and
Sweden. Those from the Hudson Bay district and Sweden are the best and
are very similar. Those taken in Central Asia are mostly used locally.
For attire the skins manufactured in Europe are generally dyed black
or brown, in which state it has a similar appearance to dyed fox, but
having less thick underwool and finer hair flows freely. The finest
skins when dyed black are used very largely in America in place of the
dyed black fox so fashionable for mourning wear in Great Britain and
France. The British Hussar busbies are made of the dark brown lynx,
and it is the free silky easy movement of the fur with the least
disturbance in the atmosphere that gives it such a pleasing effect. It
is used for rugs in its natural state and also in Turkey as trimmings
for garments. Value 13s. 6d. to 56s.
LYNX CAT or BAY LYNX.--Is about half the size and depth of fur of a
lynx proper, and inhabits the central United States. It is a flat and
reddish fur compared to the lynx and is suitable for cheap carriage
aprons. A few come from Canada and are of better quality. Value 5s. to
15s.
MARMOT.--Size 18 X 12 in. Is a rodent and is found in considerable
numbers in the south of Prussia. The fur is a yellowish brown and
rather harsh and brittle and has no underwool. Since, however, the
value of all good furs has advanced, dyers and manufacturers have made
very successful efforts with this fur. The Viennese have been
particularly successful, and their method has been to dye the skins a
good brown and then not put in the dark stripes, which exist in sable
and mink, until the garment or article is finished, thus obtaining as
perfectly symmetrical effects as if the articles were made of small
skins instead of large ones. Marmots are also found in North America,
Canada and China; the best, however, come from Russia. It should
always be a cheap fur, having so few good qualities to recommend it.
Value 9d. to 2s. 6d.
MARTEN, AMERICAN.--See _Sable_, below.
MARTEN, BAUM.--Size 16 X 5 in. Is sometimes called the pine marten,
and is found in quantity in the wooded and mountainous districts of
Russia, Norway, Germany and Switzerland. It possesses a thick
underwool with strong top hair, and ranges from a pale to a dark
bluish brown. The best, from Norway, are very durable and of good
appearance and an excellent substitute for American sable. The tails
when split into two or three, with small strips of narrow tape so as
to separate the otherwise dense fur, formerly made very handsome sets
of trimmings, ties and muffs, and the probabilities are, as with other
fashions, such use will have its period of revival. Value 6s. to 85s.
MARTEN, BLACK.--See _Skunk_, below.
MARTEN, JAPANESE.--Size 16 X 5 in. Is of a woolly nature with rather
coarse top hair and quite yellow in colour. It is dyed for the cheap
trade for boas and muffs, but it is not an attractive fur at the best
of times. It lacks a silky, bright and fresh appearance, and therefore
is unlikely to be in great demand, except where economy is an object.
Value 6s. 6d. to 18s. 6d.
MARTEN, STONE.--Size and quality similar to the baum; the colour,
however, of the underwool is a stony white and the top hair is very
dark, almost black. They live in rocky and stony districts. Skins of a
pale bluish tone are generally used in their natural state for stoles,
boas and muffs, but the less clear coloured skins are dyed in
beautiful shades similar in density to the dark and valuable sables
from Russia, and are the most effective skins that can be purchased at
a reasonable price. The tails have also been worked, in the manner
explained with regard to the baum marten, as sets of trimmings and in
other forms. Stone martens are found in Russia, Bosnia, Turkey,
Greece, Germany, the Alps and France. The Bosnian and the French are
the best in colour. The Asiatic sorts are less woolly, but being silky
are useful when dyed. There are many from Afghanistan and India which
are too poor to interest the European markets. Value 7s. 6d. to 26s.
MINK.--Size 16 X 5 in. Is of the amphibious class and is found
throughout North America and in Russia, China and Japan. The underwool
is short, close and even, as is also the top hair, which is very
strong. The best skins are very dark and are obtained from Nova
Scotia. In the central states of America the colour is a good brown,
but in the north-west and south-west the fur is coarse and generally
pale. It is very durable for linings, and is an economical substitute
for sable for coats, capes, boas and trimmings. Values have greatly
increased, and the fur possessing good qualities as to colour and
durability will doubtless always be in good request. The Russian
species is dark but flat and poor in quality, and the Chinese and
Japanese are so pale that they are invariably dyed. These, however,
are of very inferior nature. Value of American 3s. 3d. to 40s.,
Japanese 3d. to 2s. 3d.
MOLE.--Size 3-1/2 X 2-1/2 in. Moles are plentiful in the British Isles
and Europe, and owing to their lovely velvety coats of exquisite blue
shade and to the dearness of other furs are much in demand. Though the
fur is cheap in itself, the expense of dressing and working up these
little skins is considerable, and they possess the unique charm of an
exceptional colour with little weight of pelt; the quality of
resistance to friction is, however, so slight as to make them
expensive in wear. The best are the dark blue from the Fen district of
Cambridgeshire in England. Value 1/2d. to 2d.
MONGOLIAN LAMBS.--See _Lambs_, above.
MONKEY, BLACK.--Size 18 X 10 in. Among the species of monkeys only one
interests to any extent the fur trade, and that is the black monkey
taken on the west coast of Africa (_Colobus satanas_). The hair is
very long, very black and bright with no underwool, and the white pelt
of the base of the hair, by reason of the great contrast of colour, is
very noticeable. The skins were in 1850 very fashionable in England
for stoles, muffs and trimmings, and in America also as recently as
1890. They are now mostly bought for Germany and the continent. Value
6d. to 1s. 6d.
MOUFLON.--Size 30 X 15 in. Is a sheep found in Russia and Corsica and
now very little in demand, and but few are imported into Great
Britain. Many Mongolian goats with the long hairs pulled out are sold
as mouflon. Value 4s. to 10s. 6d.
MUSK-OX.--Size 6 X 3 ft. These animals have a dense coat of fine, long
brown wool, with very long dark brown hair on the head, flanks and
tail, and, in the centre, a peculiar pale oval marking. There is no
other fur that is so thick, and it is eminently suitable for sleighing
rugs, for which purpose it is highly prized in Canada. The musk-ox
inhabits the north part of Greenland and part of Canada, but in very
limited numbers. Value 10s. to 130s.
MUSQUASH or MUSK-RAT, BROWN and BLACK RUSSIAN.--Size 12 X 8 in. A very
prolific rodent of the amphibious class obtained from Canada and the
United States, similar in habit to the English vole, with a fairly
thick and even brown underwool and rather strong top dark hair of
medium density. It is a very useful fur for men's coat linings and
ladies' driving or motoring coats, being warm, durable and not too
heavy. If the colour were less motley and the joins between the skins
could be made less noticeable, it would be largely in demand for
stoles, ties and muffs. As it is, this fur is only used for these
smaller articles for the cheaper trade. It has, however, of later
years been "unhaired," the underwool clipped very even and then dyed
seal colour, in which way very useful and attractive garments are
supplied at less than half the cost of the cheaper sealskins. They do
not wear as well, however, as the pelt and the wool are not of a
strength comparable to those of sealskin. With care, however, such a
garment lasts sufficiently long to warrant the present outlay. Value
5-1/2d. to 1s. 9d.
There is a so-called black variety found in Delaware and New Jersey,
but the number is very small compared to the brown species. They are
excellent for men's coat linings and the outside of ladies' coats, for
stoles, muffs, collars and cuffs. Value 10d. to 3s. 7d.
The Russian musquash is very small, 7 X 4 in., and is limited in
numbers compared to the brown. Only a few thousands are imported to
London. It is of a very pretty silvery-blue shade of even wool with
very little silky top hair, having silvery-white sides and altogether
a very marked effect. The odour, however, even after dressing is
rather pungent of musk, which is generally an objection. Value 4s. to
6s. 6d.
NUTRIA.--Size 20 X 12 in. Is a rodent known in natural history as the
coypu, about half the size of a beaver, and when unhaired has not more
than half, generally less, the depth of fur, which is also not so
close. Formerly the fur was only used for hatters' felt, but with the
rise in prices of furs these skins have been more carefully removed
and--with improved dressing, unhairing and silvering processes--the
best provides a very effective and suitable fur for ladies' coats,
capes, stoles, muffs, hats and gloves, while the lower qualities make
very useful, light-weighted and inexpensive linings for men's or
women's driving coats. It is also dyed sealskin colour, but its woolly
nature renders it less effective than the more silky musquash. They
are obtained from the northern part of South America. Value is. 6d. to
6s. 6d.
OCELOT.--Size 36 X 13 in. Is of the nature of a leopard and prettily
marked with stripes and oblong spots. Only a few are now imported from
South America for carriage aprons or mats. The numbers are very
limited. Value 1s. to 2s. 6d.
OPOSSUM, AMERICAN.--Size 18 X 10 in. Is a marsupial, a class with this
exception not met with out of Australia. The underwool is of a very
close frizzy nature, and nearly white, with long bluish grey mixed
with some black top hair. It is only found in the central sections of
the United States. About 1870 in England it was dyed dark brown or
black and used for boas, muffs and trimmings, but until recently has
been neglected on the continent. With, however, recent experiments in
brown and skunk coloured dyes, it bids fair to become a popular fur.
Value 2-1/2d. to 5s. 6d.
OPOSSUM, AUSTRALIAN.--Size 16 X 8 in. Is a totally different nature of
fur to the American. Although it has wool and top hair, the latter is
so sparse and fine that the coat may be considered as one of close
even wool. The colour varies according to the district of origin, from
a blue grey to yellow with reddish tones. Those from the neighbourhood
of Sydney are light clear blue, while those from Victoria are dark
iron grey and stronger in the wool. These animals are most prolific
and evidently increasing in numbers. Their fur is pretty, warm and as
yet inexpensive, and is useful for rugs, coat linings, stoles, muffs,
trimmings and perambulator aprons. The worst coloured ones are
frequently dyed black and brown. The most pleasing natural grey come
from Adelaide. The reddest are the cheapest. Value 3-3/4d. to 3s. 6d.
OPOSSUM, RINGTAILED.--Size 7 X 4 in. Has a very short close and dark
grey wool, some being almost black. There are but a few thousands
imported, and being so flat they are only of use for coat linings, but
they are very warm and light in weight. Value 6d. to 10d.
OPOSSUM, TASMANIAN (grey and black).--Size 20 X 10 in. Is of a similar
description, but darker and stronger in the wool and larger. Besides
these there are some very rich brown skins which were formerly in such
request in Europe, especially Russia, that undue killing occurred
until 1899, when the government stopped for a time the taking of any
of this class. They are excellent for carriage aprons, being not only
very light in weight and warm, but handsome. Value 2s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.
OTTER, RIVER.--The size varies considerably, as does the underwool and
the top hair, according to the country of origin. There are few rivers
in the world where they do not live. But it is in the colder northern
regions that they are found in the greatest numbers and with the best
fur or underwool, the top hair, which, with the exception of the
scarce and very rich dark brown specimens they have in common with
most aquatic animals, is pulled out before the skins are manufactured.
Most of the best river otter comes from Canada and the United States
and averages 36 X 18 in. in size. Skins from Germany and China are
smaller, and shorter in the wool. The colours of the under wools of
river otters vary, some being very dark, others almost yellow. Both as
a fur and as a pelt it is extremely strong, but owing to its short and
close wool it is usually made up for the linings, collars and cuffs of
men's coats. A large number of skins, after unhairing, is dyed seal
colour and used in America. Those from hot climates are very poor in
quality. Value 28s. to 118s.
OTTER, SEA.--Size 50 X 25 in. Possesses one of the most beautiful of
coats. Unlike other aquatic animals the skin undergoes no process of
unhairing, the fur being of a rich dense silky wool with the softest
and shortest of water hairs. The colours vary from pale grey brown to
a rich black, and many have even or uneven sprinkling of white or
silvery-white hairs. The blacker the wool and the more regular the
silver points, the more valuable the skin. Sea otters are,
unfortunately, decreasing in numbers, while the demand is increasing.
The fur is most highly esteemed in Russia and China; in the latter
country it is used to trim mandarins' state robes. In Europe and
America it is much used for collar, long facings and cuffs of a
gentleman's coat; such a set may cost from L200 to L600, and in all
probability will soon cost more. Taking into consideration the size,
it is not so costly as the natural black fox, or the darkest Russian
sable, which is now the most expensive of all. The smaller and young
sea otters of a grey or brown colour are of small value compared to
the large dark and silvery ones. Value L10 to L220. A single skin has
been known to fetch L400.
OUNCE.--See _Leopard_, above.
PERSIAN LAMBS.--See _Lambs_, above.
PLATYPUS.--Size 12 X 8 in. One of the most singular of fur-bearing
animals, being the link between bird and beast. It has fur similar to
otter, is of aquatic habits, being web-footed with spurs of a cock and
the bill of a duck. The skins are not obtained in any numbers, but
being brought over by travellers as curiosities and used for muffs,
collars and cuffs, &c., they are included here for reference. Value
2s. to 3s. 6d.
_Pony_ or _Tatar Foal._--Size 36 X 20 in. These skins are of
comparatively recent importation to the civilized world. They are
obtained from the young of the numerous herds of wild horses that roam
over the plains of Turkestan. The coat is usually a shade of brown,
sometimes greyish, fairly bright and with a suggestion of waviness.
Useful for motor coats. Value 3s. to 10s. 6d.
PUMA.--Size 4-1/2 X 3 ft. Is a native of South America, similar to a
lion in habits and colour of coat. The hair and pelt is, however, of
less strength, and only a few are now used for floor rugs. Value 5s.
to 10s.
RACCOON.--Size 20 X 12 in. Is an animal varying considerably in size
and in quality and colour of fur, according to the part of North
America in which it is found. In common parlance, it may be described
as a species of wild dog with close affinity to the bear. The
underwool is 1 to 1-1/2 in. deep, pale brown, with long top hairs of a
dark and silvery-grey mixture of a grizzly type, the best having a
bluish tone and the cheapest a yellowish or reddish-brown. A limited
number of very dark and black sorts exist and are highly valued for
trimmings. The very finest skins are chiefly used for stoles and
muffs, and the general run for coachmen's capes and carriage rugs,
which are very handsome when the tails, which are marked with rings of
dark and light fur alternately, are left on. Raccoons are used in
enormous quantities in Canada for men's coats, the fur outside. The
poorer qualities are extensively bought and made up in a similar way
for Austria-Hungary and Germany. These make excellent linings for
coats or footsacks for open driving in very cold climates. The worst
coloured skins are dyed black or brown and are used for British
military busbies, or caps, stoles, boas, muffs and coachmen's capes.
The best skins come from the northern parts of the United States. A
smaller and poorer species inhabits South America, and a very few are
found in the north of India, but these do not interest the European
trade. From Japan a similar animal is obtained in smaller quantities
with very good but longer fur, of yellowish motley light-brown shades.
It is more often imported and sold as Japanese fox, but its
resemblance to the fur of the American raccoon is so marked as to
surely identify it. When dyed dark blue or skunk colour it is
good-looking and is sold widely in Europe. Raccoon skins are also
frequently unhaired, and if the underwool is of good quality the
effect is similar to beaver. It is the most useful fur for use in
America or Russia, having a full quantity of fur which will retain
heat. Value 10d. to 26s.
SABLE, AMERICAN and CANADIAN.--Size 17 X 5 in. The skins are sold in
the trade sale as martens, but as there are many that are of a very
dark colour and the majority are almost as silky as the Russian sable,
the retail trade has for generations back applied the term of sable to
this fur. The prevailing colour is a medium brown, and many are quite
yellow. The dyeing of these very pale skins has been for so long well
executed that it has been possible to make very good useful and
effective articles of them at a moderate price compared to Russian
sable. The finest skins are found in the East Main and the Esquimaux
Bay, in the Hudson's Bay Company's districts, and the poorest in
Alaska. They are not found very far south of the northern boundary of
the United States. The best skins are excellent in quality, colour and
effect, and wear well. Value 27s. 3d. to 290s.
SABLE, CHINESE and JAPANESE.--Size 14 X 4-1/2 in. These are similar to
the Amur skins previously referred to, but of much poorer quality and
generally only suitable for linings. The very palest skins are dyed
and made by the Chinese into mandarins' coats, in which form they are
found in the London trade sales, but being overdressed they are
inclined to be loose in the hair and the colour of the dye is not
good. The Japanese kind are imported raw, but are few in numbers, very
pale and require dyeing. Value 15s. to 150s.
SABLE, RUSSIAN.--Size 15 X 5 in. These skins belong to a species of
marten, very similar to the European and American, but much more silky
in the nature of their fur. They have long been known as "sables,"
doubtless owing to the density of colour to which many of them attain,
and they have always been held in the highest esteem by connoisseurs
as possessing a combination of rare qualities. The underwool is close,
fine and very soft, the top hair is regular, fine, silky and flowing,
varying from 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 in. in depth. In colour they range from a
pale stony or yellowish shade to a rich dark brown, almost black with
a bluish tone. The pelts are exceedingly fine and close in texture
and, although of little weight, are very durable, and articles made of
them produce a sensation of warmth immediately they are put upon the
body.
The Yakutsk, Okhotsk and Kamschatka sorts are good, the last being the
largest and fullest furred, but of less density of colour than the
others. Many from other districts are pale or yellowish brown, and
those from Saghalien are poor in quality. The most valuable are the
darkest from Yakutsk in Siberia, particularly those that have silvery
hairs evenly distributed over the skin. These however are exceedingly
scarce, and when a number are required to match for a large garment,
considerable time may be necessary to collect them. This class of skin
is the most expensive fur in the world, reckoning values by a square
foot unit.
The Amur skins are paler, but often of a pretty bluish stony tone with
many frequently interspersed silvery hairs. The quality too is lower,
that is, the fur is not so close or deep, but they are very effective,
particularly for close-fitting garments, as they possess the least
appearance of bulk. The paler skins from all districts in Siberia are
now cleverly coloured or "topped," that is, just the tips of the hair
are stained dark, and it is only an expert who can detect them from
perfectly natural shades. If this colouring process is properly
executed it remains fairly fast. Notwithstanding the reported rights
of the Russian imperial authorities over some regions with respect to
these and other valuable fur-bearing animals, there are in addition to
the numbers regularly sent to the trade auction sales in London many
good parcels of raw skins to be easily bought direct, provided price
is not the first consideration. Value 25s. to 980s.
SEAL, FUR.--Sizes range from 24 X 15 in. to 55 X 25 in., the width
being taken at the widest part of the skin after preparation. The
centre of the skin between the fins is very narrow and the skins taper
at each end, particularly at the tail. The very small pups are of a
beautiful quality, but too tiny to make into garments, and, as the aim
of a good furrier is to avoid all lateral or cross seams, skins are
selected that are the length of the garment that is to be made. The
most useful skins for coats are the large pups 42 in. long, and the
quality is very good and uniform. The largest skins, known in the
trade as "wigs," which range up to 8 ft. in length, are uneven and
weak in the fur, and hunters do not seek to obtain them. The supply of
the best sort is chiefly from the North Pacific, viz. Pribilof
Islands, Alaska, north-west coast of America, Copper Island of the
Aleutian group near to Kamschatka, Robben Island and Japan. Other
kinds are taken from the South Pacific and South Atlantic Oceans,
around Cape Horn, the Falkland Islands up to Lobos Islands at the
entrance of the La Plata river, off the Cape of Good Hope and Crozet
Isles. With, however, the exception of the pick of the Lobos Island
seals the fur of the southern sea seals is very poor and only suitable
for the cheapest market. Formerly many skins were obtained from New
Zealand and Australia, but the importation is now small and the
quality not good. The preparation of seal skin occupies a longer time
than any other fur skin, but its fine rich effect when finished and
its many properties of warmth and durability well repay it. Value 10s.
to 232s.
SEAL, HAIR.--There are several varieties of these seals in the seas
stretching north from Scotland, around Newfoundland, Greenland and the
north-west coast of America, and they are far more numerous than fur
seals. Generally they have coarse rigid hair and none possess any
underwool. They are taken principally for the oil and leather they
yield. Some of the better haired sorts are dyed black and brown and
used for men's motor coats when quite a waterproof garment is wanted,
and they are used also for this quality in China. The young of the
Greenland seals are called whitecoats on account of the early growth
being of a yellowish white colour; the hair is 3/4 to 1 in. long, and
at this early stage of their life is soft compared to that of the
older seals. These fur skins are dyed black or dark brown and are used
for military caps and hearth-rugs. Value 2s. to 15s. There are fewer
hair seals in the southern than in the northern seas.
SHEEP.--Vary much in size and in quality of wool. Many of the domestic
kind in central and northern Europe and Canada are used for drivers'
and peasants' coat linings, &c. In Great Britain many coats of the
home-reared sheep, having wools two and a half to five inches long,
are dyed various colours and used as floor rugs. Skins with very short
wool are dyed black and used for military saddle-cloths. The bulk,
however, is used in the wool trade. The Hungarian peasants are very
fond of their natural brown sheep coats, the leather side of which is
not lined, but embellished by a very close fancy embroidery, worked
upon the leather itself; these garments are reversible, the fur being
worn inside when the weather is cold. Chinese sheep are largely used
for cheap rugs. Value of English sheep from 3s. to 10s.
SKUNK or BLACK MARTEN.--Size 15 X 8 in. The underwool is full and
fairly close with glossy, flowing top hair about 2-1/2 in. long. The
majority have two stripes of white hair, extending the whole length of
the skin, but these are cut out by the manufacturing furrier and sold
to the dealers in pieces for exportation. The animals are found widely
spread throughout North and South America. The skins which are of the
greatest interest to the European trade are those from North America,
the South American species being small, coarse and generally brown.
The best skins come from Ohio and New York. If it were not for its
disagreeable odour, skunk would be worth much more than the usual
market value, as it is naturally the blackest fur, silky in appearance
and most durable. The improved dressing processes have to a large
extent removed the naturally pungent scent. The fur is excellent for
stoles, boas, collars, cuffs, muffs and trimmings. Value 1s. 6d. to
11s.
SOUSLIK.--Size 7 in. X 2-1/4. Is a small rodent found in the south of
Russia and also in parts of America. It has very short hair and is a
poor fur even for the cheapest linings, which is the only use to which
the skin could be put. It is known as kaluga when imported in
ready-made linings from Russia where the skins are dressed and worked
in an inferior way. Value 1d. to 3d.
SQUIRREL.--Size 10 X 5 in. This measurement refers to the Russian and
Siberian sorts, which are the only kind imported for the fur. The
numerous other species are too poor in their coats to attract notice
from fur dealers. The back of the Russian squirrel has an even close
fur varying from a clear bluish-grey to a reddish-brown, the bellies
in the former being of a flat quality and white, in the latter
yellowish. The backs are worked into linings separately, as are the
bellies or "locks." The pelts, although very light, are tough and
durable, hence their good reputation for linings for ladies' walking
or driving coats. The best skins also provide excellent material for
coats, capes, stoles, ties, collars, cuffs, gloves, muffs, hoods and
light-weight carriage aprons. The tails are dark and very small, and
when required for ends of boas three or four are made as one. Value
per skin from 2-1/2d. to 1s. 1d.
TIBET LAMB.--Size 27 X 13 in. These pretty animals have a long, very
fine, silky and curly fleece of a creamy white. The majority are
consigned to the trade auction sales in London ready dressed and
worked into cross-shaped coats, and the remainder, a fourth of the
total, come as dressed skins. They are excellent for trimmings of
evening mantles and for children's ties, muffs and perambulator
aprons. The fur is too long and bulky for linings. Value per skin from
4s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.
TIGER.--Size varies considerably, largest about 10 ft. from nose to
root of tail. Tigers are found throughout India, Turkestan, China,
Mongolia and the East Indies. The coats of the Bengal kind are short
and of a dark orange brown with black stripes, those from east or
further India are similar in colour, but longer in the hair, while
those from north of the Himalayas and the mountains of China are not
only huge in size, but have a very long soft hair of delicate orange
brown with very white flanks, and marked generally with the blackest
of stripes. The last are of a noble appearance and exceedingly scarce.
They all make handsome floor rugs.
Value of the Indian from L3 to L15.
" " Chinese " L10 to L65.
VICUNA is a species of long-necked sheep native to South America,
bearing some resemblance to the guanaco, but the fur is shorter,
closer and much finer. The colour is a pale golden-brown and the fur
is held in great repute in South America for carriage rugs. The supply
is evidently small as the prices are high. There is scarcely a
commercial quotation in London, few coming in except from private
sources. 2s. 6d. to 5s. 6d. may be considered as the average value.
WALLABY.--See _Kangaroo_, above.
WALLAROO.--See _Kangaroo_, above.
WOLF.--Size 50 X 25 in. Is closely allied to the dog tribe and, like
the jackals, is found through a wide range of the world,--North and
South America, Europe and Asia. Good supplies are available from North
America and Siberia and a very few from China. The best are the full
furred ones of a very pale bluish-grey with fine flowing black top
hair, which are obtained from the Hudson Bay district. Those from the
United States and Asia are harsher in quality and browner. A few black
American specimens come into the market, but usually the quality is
poor compared to the lighter furred animal. The Siberian is smaller
than the North American and the Russian still smaller. Besides the
wolf proper a large number of prairie or dog wolves from America and
Asia are used for cheaper rugs. In size they are less than half that
of a large wolf and are of a motley sandy colour. Numbers of the
Russian are retained for home use. The finest wolves are very light
weighted and most suitable for carriage aprons, in fact, ideal for the
purpose, though lacking the strength of some other furs.
Wolves value 2s. 6d. to 64s.
Dog wolves " 1s. to 2s. 6d.
WOLVERINE.--Size 16 X 18 in. Is native to America, Siberia, Russia and
Scandinavia and generally partakes of the nature of a bear. The
underwool is full and thick with strong and bright top hair about
2-1/2 in. long. The colour is of two or three shades of brown in one
skin, the centre being an oval dark saddle, edged as it were with
quite a pale tone and merging to a darker one towards the flanks. This
peculiar character alone stamps it as a distinguished fur, in addition
to which it has the excellent advantage of being the most durable fur
for carriage aprons, as well as the richest in colour. It is not
prolific, added to which it is very difficult to match a number of
skins in quality as well as colour. Hence it is an expensive fur, but
its excellent qualities make it valuable. The darkest of the least
coarse skins are worth the most. Prices from 6s. to 37s.
WOMBAT, KOALA or Australian Bear.--Size 20 X 12 in. Has light grey or
brown close thick wool half an inch deep without any top hair, with a
rather thick spongy pelt. It is quite inexpensive and only suitable
for cheap rough coats, carriage rugs, perambulator aprons and linings
for footbags. The coats are largely used in western America and
Canada. Value 3d. to 1s. 8-1/2d.
_Preparing and Dressing._--A furrier or skin merchant must possess a
good eye for colour to be successful, the difference in value on this
subtle matter solely (in the rarer precious sorts, especially sables,
natural black, silver and blue fox, sea otters, chinchillas, fine mink,
&c.) being so considerable that not only a practised but an intuitive
sense of colour is necessary to accurately determine the exact merits of
every skin. In addition to this a knowledge is required of what the
condition of a pelt should be; a good judge knows by experience whether
a skin will turn out soft and strong, after dressing, and whether the
hair is in the best condition of strength and beauty. The dressing of
the pelt or skin that is to be preserved for fur is totally different to
the making of leather; in the latter tannic acid is used, but never
should be with a fur skin, as is so often done by natives of districts
where a regular fur trade is not carried on. The results of applying
tannic acid are to harden the pelt and discolour and weaken the fur. The
best methods for dressing fur skins are those of a tawer or currier, the
aim being to retain all the natural oil in the pelt, in order to
preserve the natural colour of the fur, and to render the pelt as supple
as possible. Generally the skins are placed in an alkali bath, then by
hand with a blunt wooden instrument the moisture of the pelt is worked
out and it is drawn carefully to and fro over a straight, dull-edged
knife to remove any superfluous flesh and unevenness. Special grease is
then rubbed in and the skin placed in a machine which softly and
continuously beats in the softening mixture, after which it is put into
a slowly revolving drum, fitted with wooden paddles, partly filled with
various kinds of fine hard sawdust according to the nature of the furs
dealt with. This process with a moderate degree of heat thoroughly
cleans it of external greasy matter, and all that is necessary before
manufacturing is to gently tap the fur upon a leather cushion stuffed
with horsehair with smooth canes of a flexibility suited to the strength
of the fur. After dressing most skins alter in shape and decrease in
size.
With regard to the merits of European dressing, it may be fairly taken
that English, German and French dressers have specialities of
excellence. In England, for instance, the dressing of sables, martens,
foxes, otters, seals, bears, lions, tigers and leopards is first rate;
while with skunk, mink, musquash, chinchillas, beavers, lambs and
squirrels, the Germans show better results, particularly in the last.
The pelt after the German dressing is dry, soft and white, which is due
to a finishing process where meal is used, thus they compare favourably
with the moister and consequently heavier English finish. In France they
do well with cheaper skins, such as musquash, rabbit and hare, which
they dye in addition to dressing. Russian dressing is seldom reliable;
not only is there an unpleasant odour, but in damp weather the pelts
often become clammy, which is due to the saline matter in the dressing
mixture. Chinese dressing is white and supple, but contains much powder,
which is disagreeable and difficult to get rid of, and in many instances
the skin is rendered so thin that the roots of the fur are weakened,
which means that it is liable to shed itself freely, when subject to
ordinary friction in handling or wearing. American and Canadian dressing
is gradually improving, but hitherto their results have been inferior to
the older European methods.
In the case of seal and beaver skins the process is a much more
difficult one, as the water or hard top hairs have to be removed by hand
after the pelt has been carefully rendered moist and warm. With seal
skins the process is longer than with any other fur preparation and the
series of processes engage many specialists, each man being constantly
kept upon one section of the work. The skins arrive simply salted. After
being purchased at the auction sales they are washed, then stretched
upon a hoop, when all blubber and unnecessary flesh is removed, and the
pelt is reduced to an equal thickness, but not so thin as it is finally
rendered. Subsequently the hard top hairs are taken out as in the case
of otters and beavers and the whole thoroughly cleaned in the revolving
drums. The close underwool, which is of a slightly wavy nature and
mostly of a pale drab colour, is then dyed by repeated applications of a
rich dark brown colour, one coat after another, each being allowed to
thoroughly dry before the next is put on, till the effect is almost a
lustrous black on the top. The whole is again put through the cleaning
process and evenly reduced in thickness by revolving emery wheels, and
eventually finished off in the palest buff colour.
The English dye for seals is to-day undoubtedly the best; its
constituents are more or less of a trade secret, but the principal
ingredients comprise gall nuts, copper dust, camphor and antimony, and
it would appear after years of careful watching that the atmosphere and
particularly the water of London are partly responsible for good and
lasting results. The Paris dyers do excellent work in this direction,
but the colour is not so durable, probably owing to a less pure water.
In America of late, strides have been made in seal dyeing, but
preference is still given to London work. In Paris, too, they obtain
beautiful results in the "topping" or colouring Russian sables and the
Germans are particularly successful in dyeing Persian lambs black and
foxes in all blue, grey, black and smoke colours and in the insertion of
white hairs in imitation of the real silver fox. Small quantities of
good beaver are dyed in Russia occasionally, and white hairs put in so
well that an effect similar to sea otter is obtained.
The process of inserting white hairs is called in the trade "pointing,
"and is either done by stitching them in with a needle or by adhesive
caoutchouc.
The Viennese are successful in dyeing marmot well, and their cleverness
in colouring it with a series of stripes to represent the natural
markings of sable which has been done after the garments have been made,
so as to obtain symmetry of lines, has secured for them a large trade
among the dealers of cheap furs in England and the continent.
_Manufacturing Methods and Specialities._--In the olden times the
Skinners' Company of the city of London was an association of furriers
and skin dressers established under royal charter granted by Edward III.
At that period the chief concern of the body was to prevent buyers from
being imposed upon by sellers who were much given to offering old furs
as new; a century later the Skinners' Company received other charters
empowering them to inspect not only warehouses and open markets, but
workrooms. In 1667 they were given power to scrutinize the preparing of
rabbit or cony wool for the wool trade and the registration of the then
customary seven years' apprenticeship. To-day all these privileges and
powers are in abeyance, and the interest that they took in the fur trade
has been gradually transferred to the leather-dressing craft.
The work done by English furriers was generally good, but since about
1865 has considerably improved on account of the influx of German
workmen, who have long been celebrated for excellent fur work, being In
their own country obliged to satisfy officially appointed experts and to
obtain a certificate of capacity before they can be there employed. The
French influence upon the trade has been, and still is, primarily one of
style and combination of colour, bad judgment in which will mar the
beauty of the most valuable furs. It is a recognized law among
high-class furriers that furs should be simply arranged, that is, that
an article should consist of one fur or of two furs of a suitable
contrast, to which lace may be in some cases added with advantage. As
illustrative of this, it may be explained that any brown tone of fur
such as sable, marten, mink, black marten, beaver, nutria, &c., will go
well upon black or very dark-brown furs, while those of a white or grey
nature, such as ermine, white lamb, chinchilla, blue fox, silver fox,
opossum, grey squirrel, grey lamb, will set well upon seal or black
furs, as Persian lamb, broadtail, astrachan, caracul lamb, &c. White is
also permissible upon some light browns and greys, but brown motley
colours and greys should never be in contrast. One neutralizes the other
and the effect is bad. The qualities, too have to be considered--the
fulness of one, the flatness of the other, or the coarseness or fineness
of the furs. The introduction of a third fur in the same garment or
indiscriminate selection of colours of silk linings, braids, buttons,
&c., often spoils an otherwise good article.
With regard to the natural colours of furs, the browns that command the
highest prices are those that are of a bluish rather than a reddish
tendency. With greys it is those that are bluish, not yellow, and with
white those that are purest, and with black the most dense, that are
most esteemed and that are the rarest.
Perhaps for ingenuity and the latest methods of manipulating skins in
the manufacturing of furs the Americans lead the way, but as fur cutters
are more or less of a roving and cosmopolitan character the larger fur
businesses in London, Berlin, Vienna, St Petersburg, Paris and New York
are guided by the same thorough and comparatively advanced principles.
During the period just mentioned the tailors' methods of scientific
pattern cutting have been adopted by the leading furriers in place of
the old chance methods of fur cutters, so that to-day a fur garment may
be as accurately and gracefully fitted as plush or velvet, and with all
good houses a material pattern is fitted and approved before the skins
are cut.
Through the advent of German and American fur sewing-machines since
about 1890 fur work has been done better and cheaper. There are,
however, certain parts of a garment, such as the putting in of sleeves
and placing on of collars, &c., that can only be sewn by hand. For
straight seams the machines are excellent, making as neat a seam as is
found in glove work, unless, of course, the pelts are especially heavy,
such as bears and sheep rugs.
A very great feature of German and Russian work is the fur linings
called rotondes, sacques or plates, which are made for their home use
and exportation chiefly to Great Britain, America and France.
In Weissenfels, near Leipzig, the dressing of Russian grey squirrel and
the making it into linings is a gigantic industry, and is the principal
support of the place. After the dressing process the backs of the
squirrels are made up separately from the under and thinner white and
grey parts, the first being known as squirrel-back and the other as
squirrel-lock linings. A few linings are made from entire skins and
others are made from the quite white pieces, which in some instances are
spotted with the black ear tips of the animals to resemble ermine. The
smaller and uneven pieces of heads and legs are made up into linings, so
there is absolutely no waste. Similar work is done in Russia on almost
as extensive a scale, but neither the dressing nor the work is so good
as the German.
The majority of heads, gills or throats, sides or flanks, paws and
pieces of skins cut up in the fur workshops of Great Britain, America
and France, weighing many tons, are chiefly exported to Leipzig, and
made up in neighbouring countries and Greece, where labour can be
obtained at an alarmingly low rate. Although the sewing, which is
necessarily done by hand, the sections being of so unequal and tortuous
a character, is rather roughly executed, the matching of colours and
qualities is excellent. The enormous quantities of pieces admit of good
selection and where odd colours prevail in a lining it is dyed. Many
squirrel-lock linings are dyed blue and brown and used for the outside
of cheap garments. They are of little weight, warm and effective, but
not of great durability.
The principal linings are as follows: Sable sides, sable heads and paws,
sable gills, mink sides, heads and gills, marten sides, heads and gills,
Persian lamb pieces and paws, caracul lamb pieces or paws, musquash
sides and heads, nutria sides, genet pieces, raccoon sides or flanks,
fox sides, kolinski whole skins, and small rodents as kaluga and
hamster. The white stripes cut out of skunks are made into rugs.
Another great source of inexpensive furs is China, and for many years
past enormous quantities of dressed furs, many of which are made up in
the form of linings and Chinese loose-shaped garments, have been
imported by England, Germany and France for the lower class of business;
the garments are only regarded as so much fur and are reworked. With,
however, the exception of the best white Tibet lambs, the majority of
Chinese furs can only be regarded as inferior material. While the work
is often cleverly done as to matching and manipulation of the pelt which
is very soft, there are great objections in the odour and the
brittleness or weakness of the fur. One of the most remarkable results
of the European intervention in the Boxer rising in China (1900) was the
absurd price paid for so-called "loot" of furs, particularly in
mandarins' coats of dyed and natural fox skins and pieces, and natural
ermine, poor in quality and yellowish in colour; from three to ten times
their value was paid for them when at the same time huge parcels of
similar quality were warehoused in the London docks, because purchasers
could not be found for them.
With regard to Japanese furs, there is little to commend them. The best
are a species of raccoon usually sold as fox, and, being of close long
quality of fur, they are serviceable for boas, collars, muffs and
carriage aprons. The sables, martens, minks and otters are poor in
quality, and all of a very yellow colour and they are generally dyed for
the cheap trade. A small number of very pretty guanaco and vicuna
carriage rugs are imported into Europe, and many come through travellers
and private sources, but generally they are so badly dressed that they
are quite brittle upon the leather side. Similar remarks are applicable
to opossum rugs made in Australia. From South Africa a quantity of
jackal, hyena, fox, leopard and sheep karosses, i.e. a peculiarly shaped
rug or covering used by native chiefs, is privately brought over. The
skins are invariably tanned and beautifully sewn, the furs are generally
flat in quality and not very strong in the hair, and are retained' more
as curiosities than for use as a warm covering.
_Hatters' Furs and Cloths and Shawls._--The hat trade is largely
interested in the fur piece trade, the best felt hats being made from
beaver and musquash wool and the cheaper sorts from nutria, hare and
rabbit wools. For weaving, the most valuable pieces are mohair taken
from the angora and vicuna. They are limited in quantity and costly, and
the trade depends upon various sorts of other sheep and goat wools for
the bulk of its productions.
_Frauds and Imitations._--The opportunities for cheating in the fur
trade are very considerable, and most serious frauds have been
perpetrated in the selling of sables that have been coloured or
"topped"; that is, just the tips of the hairs stained dark to represent
more expensive skins. It is only by years of experience that some of
these colourings can be detected. Where the skins are heavily dyed it is
comparatively easy to see the difference between a natural and a dyed
colour, as the underwool and top hair become almost alike and the
leather is also dark, whereas in natural skins the base of the underwool
is much paler than the top, or of a different colour, and the leather Is
white unless finished in a pale reddish tone as is sometimes the case
when mahogany sawdust is used in the final cleaning. As has been
explained, sable is a term applied for centuries past to the darker
sorts of the Russian Siberian martens, and for years past the same term
has been bestowed by the retail trade upon the American and Canadian
martens. The baum and stone martens caught in France, the north of
Turkey and Norway are of the same family, but coarser in underwool and
the top hair is less in quantity and not so silky. The kolinski, or as
it is sometimes styled Tatar sable, is the animal, the tail of which
supplies hair for artists' brushes. This is also of the marten species
and has been frequently offered, when dyed dark, as have baum and stone
martens, as Russian sables. Hares, too, are dyed a sable colour and
advertised as sable. The fur, apart from a clumsy appearance, is so
brittle, however, as to be of scarcely any service whatever.
Among the principal imitations of other furs is musquash, out of which
the top hair has been pulled and the undergrowth of wool clipped and
dyed exactly the same colour as is used for seal, which is then offered
as seal or red river seal. Its durability, however, is far less than
that of seal. Rabbit is prepared and dyed and frequently offered as
"electric sealskin." Nutria also is prepared to represent sealskin, and
in its natural colour, after the long hairs are plucked out, it is sold
as otter or beaver. The wool is, however, poor compared to the otter and
beaver, and the pelt thin and in no way comparable to them in strength.
White hares are frequently sold as white fox, but the fur is weak,
brittle and exceedingly poor compared to fox and possesses no thick
underwool. Foxes, too, and badger are dyed a brownish black, and white
hairs inserted to imitate silver fox, but the white hairs are too coarse
and the colour too dense to mislead any one who knows the real article.
But if sold upon its own merits, pointed fox is a durable fur.
Garments made of sealskin pieces and Persian lamb pieces are frequently
sold as if they were made of solid skins, the term "pieces" being simply
suppressed. The London Chamber of Commerce have issued to the British
trade a notice that any misleading term in advertising and all attempts
at deception are illegal, and offenders are liable under the Merchandise
Marks Act 1887.