Dear ----,--The opening of the Parliament is a great occasion in Rome
(where one would like to be both inside and outside at the same time).
The children's governess had a friend who offered them seats in her
window, and this is what they saw outside:
The streets lined with soldiers from the Quirinal to the House of
Parliament, the large places in the Square swept clean and sanded (an
unusual sight in Rome), thousands of citizens hanging out of the
windows, flags and pennants waving in the air; brilliant cavalcades
followed one another, accompanied by military bands playing inspiring
music, and then came the Bersagliere, in their double-quick step,
sounding their bugles as they marched along, their hats cocked very
much on one side, with long rooster feathers streaming out in the wind.
This is the most unique regiment (I was going to say cockiest) one can
imagine. Their uniforms are very dark green, their hats are black
patent leather, and they wear black gloves and leggings. I am told that
these soldiers do not live long--that they hardly ever reach the age of
forty. The strain on the heart, caused by their quick pace, which is
something between a run and a trot, is too great, especially for the
buglers, who blow their bugles while running. At last came the splendid
gala coaches of the King and the Queen, followed by many others, and
then the military suite, making a splendid procession.
[Illustration:
KING VICTOR EMMANUEL
From a photograph given to Madame de Hegermann-Lindencrone in 1893.]
Inside, the large building was crowded to its limit. The state
Ministers were in their seats in front, the members of Parliament
behind them. The balconies were filled with people, and every available
place was occupied. When the Queen entered the royal _loge_ with her
ladies and chamberlains, there was a great deal of clapping of hands,
which is the way an Italian shows his enthusiasm and loyalty. Every one
arose and remained standing while the Queen came forward to the front
of her _loge_, bowed and smiled, and bowed and bowed again until the
clapping ceased; then she took her seat, and every one sat down.
The _loge_ reserved for the Diplomatic Corps is directly opposite the
Queen's. After a few moments' pause the platform supporting the throne
was noiselessly invaded by numerous officers in their glittering and
brilliant uniforms, and members of the court in their court dress
covered with decorations, who took their places on each side of the
throne. The King came in quietly without any pomp, and was greeted by
the most enthusiastic and prolonged demonstration. He acknowledged the
ovation, but evidently chafed under the slight delay, as if impatient
to commence his speech. Before doing so he turned toward the Queen's
_loge_ with a respectful inclination of the head, as if to acknowledge
her presence, then, bowing to the Diplomatic _loge_ and turning to the
audience, read his proclamation.
It was most difficult to hear what the King said, perched as we were
high above him; but we understood by the frequent interruptions and the
enthusiastic _benes_ and _bravos_ and the clapping of hands that what
he said pleased his subjects. The speech over, the King, accompanied by
his suite, left as quietly as he had entered, amid the vociferous
applause that followed. The Queen then arose, smiled and bowed to the
assembly, and withdrew.
The streets were thronged with soldiers and people, and it was as much
as his life was worth for the coachman to draw up in front of the door.
Mr. and Mrs. Field have almost completed their enormous palace out by
Santa Maria Maggiore, but they have not, as they hoped, succeeded in
making that part of Rome fashionable. They have bought land as far as
the Colosseum; Nero's gold house, which stands in a _finocchi_ patch,
is theirs too. The tenement-houses near them continue to festoon the
façades with the week's wash in every state of unrepair. There is no
privacy about the Italians washing their dirty linen, though they do
wash at home.