"When I awoke my eyes were greeted by the most charming, peaceful
scene it has ever fallen to my lot to witness.
"The Nile, for a considerable distance, is interspersed with a number
of islets (called in these parts the ninety-nine islands) which may
be very easily mistaken for clumps of verdure and flowers. On either
bank innumerable aquatic plants and tropical creepers float in the
stream, or, springing up from the shore, seek shelter under the
tamarinds, soonts, and palms. The rounded roofs of the riverside
villages recall to our minds the summer-houses of an English garden.
"To this pleasing tableau succeeds very quickly a most picturesque
sight. We now began to feel the influence of the sixth cataract. The
Nile, instead of flowing in majestic breadth, becomes suddenly
contracted, and is converted into a torrent, walled on either side by
cliffs, and carrying us in imagination to the passes in the Pyrenees.
The peak of Raouian and the valley-straits of Sablouk complete the
illusion.
"We land for the purpose of visiting the little village of Dasrurab
and the green plain surrounding it. In the middle of this plain I
notice a number of tripod-shaped tressels, the object of which it is
beyond me to describe. Ali undertakes to enlighten me. It appears
that just about harvest time flocks of birds fly from all parts of
Nubia to collect the grain, in anticipation of the owner thereof. The
latter have hit upon no better idea for the protection of their
property than to place at intervals these tressels or stands, on each
of which a slave has to squat during the whole of the day, thus
taking the place of those dressed-up figures with which we in France
frighten away the birds. The wretched creatures condemned, under a
scorching sun, to play the part of living scare-crows, are as a rule
the aged of both sexes, who, incapable from infirmity of gaining a
livelihood in any other way, thus terribly earn the morsel of bread
which their master condescends to throw to them. Most assuredly, my
dear Pommerelle, the more I reflect, the less I regret, if indeed I
ever regretted it, my yesterday's expedition against the slave-traders.
Don't let anybody talk to me again of the ease and comfort
enjoyed by the Eastern slave. As long as they are ornamental they are
taken the greatest care of, they are decked out and polished till
they positively shine, but as soon as age deteriorates them, they may
rot on any dung-hill.
"We are approaching Khartoum, and the villages on the right bank
become more numerous. The patches of verdure have disappeared, and
the Nile has lost its picturesque character. On the right nothing can
be seen but sandy wastes, apparently skirting the district of Akaba,
an extensive tract of uncultivated country merging into the desert of
Bahiouda.
"Passing by Kerrieri, we arrive at last at Khartoum, a town replete
with bustle and movement, in the full tide of Turkish and African
civilization, crowded with the countless vessels and boats of all
sorts and sizes, which, at this time of the year, throng the port. In
a few days, towards the middle of December, the navigation of the
White Nile will become easy, and all the merchants of the country are
hard rat work preparing their cargoes of European commodities for the
south—silk, cotton, and woollen goods, muslins, powder, sugar,
spices, coffee, and arrack—in exchange for the produce of equatorial
countries, such as gum, gold dust, ostrich feathers, rhinoceros
horns, hippopotamus and elephant's tusks, and last but not least, a
goodly number of slaves, whom, in spite of the Government edicts,
they know how to hide in some den and sell to a pacha or a bey, whose
position places him out of the reach of the law. We must admit this
fundamental principle—in Eastern countries nothing changes, old
manners and customs are always more powerful than laws and firmans.
The Turk is, so to speak, steeped in the past; he sometimes is
subject to superficial reform, but he soon returns to his former
errors, and stagnates afresh in his ancient traditions.
"I promised to take you as far as Khartoum, and I have kept my
promise. I will not, however, limit you to your pound of flesh, but,
before taking leave of you, perhaps, for some time, I will give you a
few concise notes about this town, curious in more ways than one.
These notes are indispensable to you, if you really take any interest
in our journey and wish to follow our onward course. A little
patience, and Périères and Delange will take you for a walk through
this wonderful place, and will unfold to you its secrets; for, so I
am told, there is a truly marvellous freedom of morals in Khartoum,
and in it the scent of European corruption mingles with the acrid
stench of savage life.
"Starting into existence in 1823, the town has developed rapidly, and
now can certainly boast more than 50,000 inhabitants, divided into
several classes. The first class is composed of, at the most, fifty
Europeans, whose numbers are annually decreased by one-third owing to
the unhealthy climate, but are regularly recruited from Cairo by
fresh arrivals eager for rapid fortunes. The principal business is
almost entirely confined to ten of these Europeans, amongst whom
there are some honourable men. The ivory trade is, in fact, distinct
from the slave trade, and it is a mistake, very generally made, to
suppose that the first is merely a cloak to the other. All these
large men of business have agencies in the equatorial provinces where
elephants' tusks are bartered for home produce. Unfortunately, these
agencies, lawful in themselves, have become rendezvous for the slave
hunters, and serve as starting points for their expeditions into the
unexplored regions, thus affording additional facilities for the
prosecution of their infamous trade. Hence the confusion which exists
in the minds of most men on this subject.
"The remaining classes of the population of Khartoum comprise a
number of Turks, still more Arab traders from Upper Egypt, El-Hejaz,
and the western shores of the Red Sea, and a crowd of _fakis_, a race
of quacks who combine the occupation of schoolmaster with that of a
dealer in fetiches or charms. The greater part of them pursue another
calling, and occupy themselves in a shameless trade, which, to speak
very mildly, does not conduce to the morality of Khartoum.
"Finally, the most numerous class, in itself as large as all the
others put together, is composed of a mixture of negroes, soldiers,
and sailors, whom every leader of a White River expedition is
compelled to enlist into his service, of petty itinerant dealers,
Almehs licensed or otherwise, slaves of all nationalities, and a
garrison of about four thousand men, recruited from the Nubians or
Bashi-Bazouks. The rapid rise of the town is to be attributed to its
admirable position from a commercial point of view. Khartoum is, in
fact, situated at the junction of the Bahr-el-Abiad, or White River,
and the Bahr-el-Azrek, or Blue River, which, when united, form the
Nile, properly so called. To the south of Khartoum, and ascending
towards the Equator, the people of the country rarely make use of the
word Nile. They say the White River when they wish to describe the
stream which flows directly from the south, and the Blue River when
they allude to the other stream which passes Sennaar and rises in
Abyssinia.
"The White Nile, or River, is undoubtedly the more important of these
two streams, and its importance is so great that it very often gives
its name to the sister stream. It is itself formed by the confluence,
at about 8° latitude N, of two other affluents; the Bahr-el-Djebel,
more commonly called the Sobat, and the Bahr-el-Gazal, or Gazelle
River, which flows eastwards. These various water routes take the
vessels either to Gondokoro, the extreme navigable point, and where
most voyages of discovery have ended, or to the ivory country,
amongst the Nuehr, Djours, and Dinka tribes, or in the direction of
the great lakes.
"But to come back to Khartoum, of which you will now have some idea
both as regards its population and its geographical position. A few
lines will suffice to show you over its streets, its gardens, and its
monuments. The only public buildings to be met with are Government
House, called the Divan, the prison, some Mosques, without anything
remarkable about them, a hospital, tolerably well managed, thanks to
the assistance rendered by European doctors, a powder manufactory,
and a few barracks, But Khartoum is worthy of mention for the truly
exceptional beauty of its gardens, which extend for some miles along
the left bank of the Blue River. The plants, half a century old,
afford the most delicious shade, and ought to have a beneficial
effect on the sanitary condition of the town. They have, however, no
such effect, owing to the place having been built originally in the
midst of a pestilential marsh, and to render it healthy it must be
pulled down altogether—a measure far too radical for this country.
"And now, my dear fellow, as soon as I have told you about the
markets, you will know Khartoum as well as I do. I could only judge
of them by the people who crossed each other's path in them, in every
sense of the phrase, and whose complexions, of every hue, indicated
their varied origin. All the races who inhabit the world pass by, one
after the other; from the white-skinned Greek to the ebony Negro, the
intermediate stages being the dark brown Arab, the copper coloured
Abyssinian, certain tribes whose colour verges on the blue (_asrak_),
others on green (_ahkdar_), and others still partaking of red
(ahmar), a sort of human rainbow in fact.
"My task is ended, my dear Pommerelle, and you will have no more
descriptions from me. I yield my pen to other hands."