Both William of Jumieges and the chronicle of St. Wandrille

ARCHITECTURAL

ANTIQUITIES

OF

NORMANDY,

BY

JOHN SELL COTMAN;

ACCOMPANIED BY

HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE NOTICES

BY

DAWSON TURNER, ESQ. F.R. AND A.S.

VOLUME THE FIRST.

[Illustration: Coat of arms of the Duchy of Normandy.

Emblems of the towns of Rouen and Caen.]

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR JOHN AND ARTHUR ARCH, CORNHILL;

AND J. S. COTMAN, YARMOUTH.

MDCCCXXII.

[Illustration]

PREFACE.

An artist, engaged in the illustration of the Architectural Antiquities

of England, could scarcely do otherwise than often cast a wistful look

towards the opposite shores of Normandy; and such would particularly be

the case, if, like Mr. Cotman, to a strong attachment to his profession

and the subject, he should chance to add a residence in Norfolk. This

portion of the kingdom of the East-Angles, in its language and in its

customs, but especially in the remains of its ancient ecclesiastical

architecture, abounds in vestiges of its Teutonic colonists. The richly

ornamented door-ways of its village churches have, in particular, long

been the theme of admiration among antiquaries. Bred up in the midst of

these, and warmly partaking in the admiration of them, Mr. Cotman

devoted his pencil and his graver to the diffusion of their fame. Common

report, aided by the suffrages of the learned, and in some degree by

locality, designated them as Saxon: at the same time, when they were

compared with what is left in Britain, of workmanship avowedly Norman,

the points of dissimilarity appeared trifling or altogether vanished.

Was it then to be inferred that, between Norman and Saxon architecture,

there was really no difference; and, carrying the inference one step

farther, that the hordes of barbarians denominated by these different

appellations, although they might not have embarked at the same port,

were only cognate tribes of one common origin, if not in reality the

same? The solution of the first of these questions, the only one

immediately in view, seemed best to be sought in that province of

France, where the Norman power had been most permanently established,

and where it was therefore reasonably to be expected, that genuine

productions of Norman art might, if any where, be found. With this view,

Mr. Cotman crossed the channel; and the result of three successive

journies, in the years 1817, 1818, and 1820, is here submitted to the

public.

Those who find pleasure in inquiries of this description, will join in

the regret, that an undertaking like the present was so long delayed.

Incalculable had been the advantages, had it but commenced previously

to the period of the French revolution. That fearful storm burst with

tremendous violence upon the castles of barons, the palaces of kings,

and the temples of religion. Many of the most sumptuous edifices, which

had mocked the hand of time, and had been respected amidst the ravages

of foreign or domestic warfare, were then swept from the face of the

earth. Others, degraded, deserted, neglected, and dilapidated, are at

this moment hastening fast to their decay. Yet no small portion of what

is valuable has been happily left. The two royal abbeys of Caen, though

shorn of much of their former grandeur, are still nearly entire. Château

Gaillard, the pride of Richard's lion heart, and the noble castles of

Arques and of Falaise, retain sufficient of their ancient magnificence,

to testify what they must have been in the days of their splendor: the

towns and châteaus, which were the cradles of the Harcourts, Vernons,

Tancarvilles, Gurneys, Bruces, Bohuns, Grenvilles, St. Johns, and many

others of the most illustrious English families, are still in existence;

and, of more modern date, when the British Edwards and Henrys resumed

the Norman sceptre, numerous buildings of the highest beauty are every

where to be met with. In his researches after these, Mr. Cotman had the

advantage of being assisted by the kindness of three of the most

distinguished antiquaries of the present day, M. le Prevost, M. Rondeau,

and M. de Gerville, but particularly by the last, whose friendly help

has likewise extended towards the preparing of the letter-press for many

of the articles from the western part of the province. It were

ungrateful not to acknowledge the assistance derived from Mr. Cohen, in

the same department. The value of his aid, which has been most freely

contributed, can be duly appreciated by those alone who have had

opportunities of judging of the accuracy and extent of his knowledge.

In the selection of subjects for engraving, attention has been

principally paid to two points, excellence in the objects themselves,

and certainty as to dates; but the greatest stress has been laid upon

the latter. The author of a work which professes to be in any degree

didactic, can never impress too strongly upon his mind the value of the

Roman precept, "prodesse quàm delectare;" and an artist, accustomed by

his habits to the contemplation of the beautiful and the picturesque,

requires above all men to be warned on this head. Many of the buildings

here represented, might easily have been exchanged for others, more

perfect, more elegant, or more ornamented; but it is hoped that they

could not have been exchanged for those that would have been more

instructive. The main object of the publication has been to exhibit a

series of specimens of Norman architecture, as they actually exist in

Normandy itself; and, by taking those whose dates are best defined, to

enable the antiquary and the amateur of other countries, not only to

know the state of this extraordinary people, as to their arts, at the

epoch of their greatest glory, but also to compare what is in Normandy

with what they find at home. Another volume, devoted to the illustration

of the same description of architecture, in the south of France, in

Italy, and in Sicily, would fill a hiatus, whose existence has long been

regretted. In Germany, Denmark, and Sweden, it is to be feared that

little remains; and, thanks to the spirit of English artists and to the

patronage of the English public, what is in this country is already in

a great measure recorded. To an Englishman, it is hoped it may be a

source of venial self-congratulation, that the first publication upon

Norman architecture originates in his own island: he will likewise

probably not be displeased to find, that this collection of the finest

remaining specimens of Norman art upon the continent, contains nothing

which he cannot rival, indeed surpass, at home.

But, at the same time that the principal end proposed in this work has

been to set before the public those edifices, whether sacred, military,

or domestic, which were erected during the age most properly designated

as Norman, the æra anterior to the union of the ducal coronet with the

crown of France, it has been felt that, in whatever light the

publication might be regarded, it would be incomplete without the

addition of other buildings of a subsequent period. A farther number of

specimens has therefore been admitted, conducting the series through the

style of architecture, commonly termed Gothic, down to the time when

that style finally disappeared before an Italian model, more or less

debased.

In the descriptive portion of these volumes, attention has been almost

exclusively directed to two points, the historical and the

architectural. On the latter of these, so much has been said under each

separate article, that whatever might be added in this place could be

little more than repetition; and the history of Normandy, from the

establishment of the dukedom to the beginning of the thirteenth

century, is so interwoven with that of England, that it has been

considered needless here to insert an epitome of it, as had at first

been intended. In lieu of this, a Table is subjoined, exhibiting the

succession, marriages and progeny of the Norman Princes, copied from Du

Moulin; and such Table can scarcely be regarded otherwise than useful,

as bringing the whole under the eye in a single point of view: a

Chronological Index, it is hoped, may in a great measure answer the same

purpose as to architecture. It is only justice, however, to add, that,

in this Index, much has necessarily been left to conjecture; and, where

it is so, the author naturally expects that others will occasionally

differ from him in opinion; especially as no opportunity is afforded him

of detailing the grounds whereby he has formed his own. Upon the subject

most likely to create doubts and difficulties, the very early date

assigned to the employment of the pointed arch, he begs the attention of

the reader to those authorities, which, in his judgment, warrant the

conclusion he has drawn. If mistaken in this, or in any other point, he

will be most thankful for correction; and, in the language of that

author, who is, as he long has been and probably always will be, more

than any other the object of quotation, he takes leave, with the

well-known valedictory lines,

"Vive, vale; si quid novisti rectius istis,

Candidus imperti; si non, his utere mecum."

[Illustration: CHURCH OF QUERQUEVILLE NEAR CHERBOURG]

SUBJECTS CHRONOLOGICALLY ARRANGED.

In the following list, an Obelisk is affixed to the dates which depend

upon conjecture. Those preceded by an Asterisk denote the year of the

dedication of the building.

NO. OF PLATES. DATE.

53. _Rouen_, Crypt in the Church of St. Gervais before + 1000

13. _St. Sauveur le Vicomte_, Castle before + 1000

69. _Lillebonne_, Castle + 1000

48. _Caen_, Chapel in the Castle + 1000

89, 90. _Falaise_, Castle--Keep of + 1000

83. _St. Sanson sur Rille_, Church + 1020

67. _Anisy_, Church + 1030

68. _Perriers_, Church--Nave of + 1030

97. _Cerisy_, Abbey Church 1040

95. _Mount St. Michael_, Abbey Church--Nave of 1048

87, 88. _St. Lo_, Church of the Holy Cross--(some

of the sculpture probably of the ninth century) + 1050

1. _Arques_, Castle + 1050

84. _Foullebec_, Western door-way of the Church + 1050

70. _Briquebec_, Castle--(the multangular tower

probably of the fourteenth century) + 1050

5-10. _St. Georges de Bocherville_, Abbey Church 1050

92-94. _Coutances_, Cathedral * 1056

17. _Tamerville_, Church + 1060

44-46. _Léry_, Church + 1060

54. _Rouen_, Church of St. Paul + 1060

73-75. _Lisieux_, Church of St. Peter 1060

55, 56. _Caen_, Church of St. Nicholas 1066

24-33. _Ditto_, Abbey Church of the Holy Trinity * 1066

82. _Montivilliers_, Abbey Church--Towers and door-way + 1066

2, 3. _Jumieges_, Abbey Church * 1067

60, 61. _Fontaine-le-Henri_, Church + 1070

21-23. _Caen_, Abbey Church of St. Stephen * 1077

57. _Cheux_, Church + 1080

98. _Oyestraham_, Church + 1080

58, 59. _Bieville_, Church + 1080

* 33. _Caen_, Tombstone of Queen Matilda 1083

37. _Haute Allemagne_, Tower of Church + 1100

16. _Than_, Church + 1100

18. _Caen_, Tower of the Church of St. Michel de

Vaucelles + 1100

12. _Grâville_, Church 1100

99, 100. _Séez_, Cathedral * 1126

14. _St. Sauveur le Vicomte_, Abbey Church + 1130

96. _Mount St. Michael_, Knights' Hall 1130

39-41. _Gournay_, Church of St. Hildebert--Interior of

the nave, and capitals of columns + 1140

20. _Statue of William the Conqueror_ + 1150

91. _Creully_, Church + 1150

11. _St. Georges de Bocherville_, Sculpture in

the Chapter House 1170

42, 43. _Rouen_, Chapel of the Hospital of St. Julien + 1190

80, 81. _Château Gaillard_ 1195

51, 52. _Rouen Cathedral_, West front--Northern Tower 1200

47. _Colomby_, Church + 1200

68. _Perriers_, Church--Choir + 1230

38. _Gournay_, Church of St. Hildebert--West front + 1250

4. _Jumieges_, Entrance to the Knights' Hall + 1280

76. _Rouen_, Church of St. Ouen 1340

71. _Fécamp_, Southern entrance of the Church of

St. Stephen + 1340

35. _Dieppe_, Church of St. Jacques--Western

front--(the tower probably fifty years earlier) + 1350

72. _Eu_, Screen in the Church of St. Lawrence + 1360

66. _Tréport_, Church 1370

19. _Caen_, South Porch of the Church of

St. Michel de Vaucelles + 1380

82. _Montivilliers_, Abbey Church--Chapter-House 1390

36. _Dieppe_, Eastern end of the Church of St. Jacques + 1400

79. _Louviers_, South porch of the Church + 1420

85, 86. _Tancarville_, Castle + 1420

89, 90. _Falaise_, Castle--Talbot's Tower 1430

34. _Dieppe_, Castle + 1450

51, 52. _Rouen Cathedral_, Western front--Southern Tower 1485

95. _Mount St. Michael_, Abbey Church--Choir 1500

78. _Rouen_, Palace of Justice 1500

77. _Ditto_, Fountain of the Stone Cross 1500

68. _Caen_, House in the Rue St. Jean + 1500

62, 63. _Fontaine-le-Henri_, Château + 1500

49, 50. _Rouen Cathedral_, Southern Transept 1500

51, 52. _Ditto_, Western Front--Porch 1509

15. _Andelys_, Great House + 1530

64. _Rouen_, House in the Place de la Pucelle + 1540

PLATES IN THE FIRST VOLUME.

PLATE.

1. Castle of Arques to face page 1

2. Abbey Church of Jumieges, West Front 2

3. -- -- -- -- Parts of the Nave 3

4. -- -- -- -- Arch on the West Front 3

5. Abbey Church of St. Georges de Bocherville, West Front 4

6. -- -- -- -- -- -- General View 4

7. -- -- -- -- -- -- West Entrance 5

8. -- -- -- -- -- -- South Transept 5

9. -- -- -- -- -- -- Sculptured Capitals 5

10. -- -- -- -- -- -- Ditto 6

11. -- -- -- -- -- -- Sculptures in the

Cloisters 6

12. Church of Grâville 7

13. Castle of St. Sauveur le Vicomte 8

14. Abbey Church of St. Sauveur le Vicomte 11

15. Great House at Andelys 13

16. Church of Than 16

17. Church of Tamerville 17

18. Tower of the Church of St. Michel de Vaucelles, Caen 18

19. North Porch of Ditto 18

20. Statue of William, Duke of Normandy 20

21. \ Abbey Church of St. Etienne, Caen, West Front 21

22. /

23. -- -- -- -- Compartments of the Nave 24

24. Abbey Church of the Holy Trinity, Caen 27

25. -- -- -- -- East End 32

26. -- -- -- -- East End of Interior 32

27. -- -- -- -- North Side of the Choir 32

28. -- -- -- -- Arches under the central Tower 33

29. -- -- -- -- East Side of South Transept 33

30. -- -- -- -- Interior of the Nave 33

31. -- -- -- -- South Side of the Nave 34

32. -- -- -- -- Crypt 34

33. -- -- -- -- Capitals 34

33.* Inscription on the Tomb of Queen Matilda 35

34. Castle of Dieppe 35

35. Church of St. Jacques, at Dieppe, West Front 38

36. -- -- -- -- East End 38

37. Tower of the Church of Haute Allemagne, near Caen 39

38. Collegiate Church of St. Hildebert, at Gournay, West Front 39

39. -- -- -- -- -- -- View across

the Nave 41

40. -- -- -- -- -- -- Capitals 42

41. -- -- -- -- -- -- Capitals 42

42. Chapel in the Hospital of St. Julien, near Rouen, South Side 43

43. -- -- -- -- -- -- Interior 44

44. Church of Léry, near Pont de l'Arche, General View 45

45. -- -- -- -- -- West Front 46

46. -- -- -- -- -- Interior 46

47. Elevation of the Church of Colomby, near Valognes 47

48. Chapel in the Castle at Caen 48

49. \ Cathedral Church of Notre Dame, of Rouen, South Transept 50

50. /

51. \ -- -- -- -- -- -- West Front 51

52. /

53. Crypt in the Church of St. Gervais, at Rouen 56

54. Church of St. Paul, at Rouen, East End 57

GENEALOGY OF THE NORMAN DUKES.

===============

N. PRINCE OF LOWER DENMARK.

|

|

+----------+-----------+

| |

| GOURIN, killed

| in Denmark.

|

2nd wife, POPPEIA, ROLLO, 1st Duke = 1st wife, GISLA, daughter

daughter of Berenger, = of Normandy. of Charles the Simple,

Count of the Bessin. | A.D. 911. King of France.

|

+---+-----------------------+

| |

SPROTE, daughter of = WILLIAM, LONGA-SPATHA, GERLOC, wife to

the Count of Senlis. | 2nd Duke of Normandy. William, Count of

| A.D. 917. Poitiers.

+--------+

|

1st wife, EMMA, daughter = RICHARD I. 3rd = 2nd wife, GONNOR,

of Hugues le Grand, Duke Duke of Normandy. | originally his

of France. A.D. 944. | concubine.

|

+-----+-----------------+-----------+------+------+-------------+

| | | | | |

| ROBERT, MAUGER, EMMA, HAVOISE, MATILDA,

| Archbishop of Count of Queen of wife of wife of

| Rouen, Count Corbeil. England. Geoffrey, Eudes,

| of Evreux. Duke of Count of

+---------------------+ Brittany. Chartres.

|

2nd wife, = RICHARD II. called = 1st wife, JUDITH, da.

PAPHIE, or | THE GOOD, 4th | of Geoffrey, Duke of

POPPEA. | Duke of Normandy. | Brittany.

| A.D. 996. |

+------------+-+ |

| | |

MAUGER, WILLIAM OF ARQUES, |

Archbishop Count of Talou. |

of Rouen. |

+------------+---------+--------+---+--------+--------+--+

| | | | | | |

RICHARD III. WILLIAM, ALICE, ELEANOR, PAPIE, | N. died

5th Duke of Monk at wife of wife of wife | unmarried.

Normandy. Fécamp. Rinaldo, Baldwin, of Guibert |

A.D. 1026. Count of Count of of St. |

| Burgundy. Flanders. Vallery. |

| |

NICOLAS, Abbot of St. Ouen: and two daughters, one |

of them married to Walter of St. Vallery, the other |

to the Viscount of Bayeux:--all illegitimate. |

+----------------------------+

|

ROBERT, 6th = ARLETTE,

Duke of | daughter

Normandy. | of Foubert,

A.D. 1028. | citizen of

| Falaise.

|

WILLIAM THE CONQUEROR, = MATILDA, daughter

7th Duke of Normandy, | of Baldwin, Count

and King of England. | of Flanders.

A.D. 1035. |

+-------+-------------+--------------+----+--+------+------+------+-----+

| | | | | | | | |

| RICHARD, WILLIAM RUFUS, | CECILIA. | | | |

| killed in King of England. | CONSTANCE. | | |

| the New | ALICE. | |

| Forest. +---------------+ AGATHA. |

| | |

| N. his = ROBERT, COURT-HOSE, = SIBILLA, |

| MISTRESS. | 8th Duke of | daughter |

| | Normandy. | of William, |

| | A.D. 1087. | Count of |

| | | Conversans. |

| +--------+------+--------+ +----------------------------+ |

| | | | | |

| RICHARD, WILLIAM, N. wife to N. da. of Marquis = WILLIAM, |

| died from a killed in Hélie de Renier, and sister Count of |

| surfeit, in the St. Saen. to the Queen of Flanders. |

| hunting. Crusades. France. +------------+

| |

| ADELA. = STEPHEN,

| | Count of

| | Blois.

| +------------+----------+---------------------+--+

| | | | |

| WILLIAM. THEOBALD, HENRY, STEPHEN, = MATILDA of

| Earl of Bishop of King of | Boulogne.

| Blois. Winchester. England. |

| +---------------+

| |

| EUSTACE, 10th Duke of

| Normandy. A.D. 1135.

|

+------------------------------------+

|

1st wife, = HENRY I. King = 2nd wife,

MATILDA, da. | of England, ADELIZA,

of Malcolm, | and 9th Duke daughter of

King of | of Normandy. the Duke of

Scotland. | A.D. 1107. Louvain.

+---------+-----------------+

| |

WILLIAM ADELIN, 1st hus. = MATILDA. = 2nd hus.

drowned after his HENRY V. | GEOFFREY,

marriage. Emperor. | Count of

| Anjou, and

| 11th Duke of

| Normandy.

| A.D. 1143.

+-------------------+------------+

| | |

ELEANOR, = HENRY PLANTAGENET, GEOFFREY, WILLIAM.

Countess of | 12th Count of

Poitiers and | Duke of Normandy. Nantes.

Duchess of | A.D. 1150:

Aquitaine. | Count of Anjou,

| Touraine,

| and Maine, and King

| of England.

+-----------++--------------+----------------+-----------+

| | | | |

WILLIAM. | RICHARD COEUR- | JOHN LACKLAND, King

| DE-LION, King of | of England, 14th

MARGARET, = HENRY THE England, and 13th | and last Duke of

of France. YOUNG, Duke of Normandy. | Normandy. A.D. 1199.

crowned King A.D. 1189. |

of England. +-----+

|

GEOFFREY, Count = CONSTANCE,

of Brittany. | daughter of

+----------+ Conan, Duke of

| Brittany.

|

ARTHUR, Duke of Brittany,

killed by his uncle John.

THE

ARCHITECTURAL ANTIQUITIES

OF

NORMANDY.

PLATE I.

CASTLE OF ARQUES.

[Illustration: Plate 1. CASTLE OF ARQUES.]

The town of Arques, situated in the immediate vicinity of Dieppe, is a

spot consecrated by the historical muse, and one upon which a Frenchman

always dwells with pleasure, as the place that fixed the sceptre in the

hands of the most popular monarch of the nation, Henry IV.

The sovereign, fleeing from the superior forces of the league, here, in

the very confines of his kingdom, finally resolved to make his last

stand; urged to the measure by the Marshal de Biron, but doubtful in his

own mind, whether it would not be the wisest as well as the safest plan,

to seek refuge in the friendly ports of England. Reduced to the utmost

extremity, "a king without a kingdom, a husband without a wife, and a

warrior without money," he stopped at Arques, in a state bordering upon

despair; and yet, when the Count de Belin, who was brought in prisoner

shortly before the battle, assured his majesty, that, in two hours, an

army of forty thousand men would be upon him, and that he saw no forces

there to resist them, the king replied, with that gaity of mind that

never forsook him, "You see not all, M. Belin, for you reckon not God,

and my just claim, who fight for me."

Henry's whole army consisted of only three thousand infantry and six

hundred cavalry: the hostile forces amounted to more than thirty

thousand, commanded by the Duke of Mayenne, one of the ablest leaders of

the league, but the Fabius rather than the Marcellus of the party. The

occasion, however, needed the sword rather than the buckler: Henry's

soldiers fought with the courage of desperation; but every thing seemed

lost, when, according to the account given by Sully, the fog, which had

been very thick all the morning, cleared suddenly away, and afforded the

garrison in the castle of Arques a full view of the enemy's army,

against which they discharged four pieces of artillery with such effect,

as to kill great numbers of them. Their progress was thus effectually

stopped; and the guns from the castle continuing to play upon them, they

were soon thrown into disorder, and retreated to their original

position.

From this time, the aspect of the king's affairs changed: his well-known

laconic epistle to Crillon, "hang thyself, brave Crillon, for we have

fought at Arques without thee," shewed his own sense of the important

results that might be expected from the battle. The most important of

all was, that he was immediately joined by an auxiliary force of four

thousand English and Scotch, sent by Queen Elizabeth to his aid; and

that, almost immediately afterwards, another, still more considerable

reinforcement, was brought him by the Count of Soissons, Henry of

Orleans, Duke of Longueville, D'Aumont, and Biron; so that the Duke of

Mayenne was obliged to retreat in his turn, and Henry saw himself within

a few days under the walls of the capital; in a situation to dictate

terms to his rebellious subjects.

The castle of Arques had on this occasion essentially served the royal

cause; but it seems to have been suffered from that time forwards to

fall into decay. All mouldering, however, and ruined as it is, its

walls and towers may yet for many centuries bid defiance to wind and

weather, unless active measures are used for their demolition.

At the revolution the castle became national property, and as such was

sold: it has now fallen into the hands of a lady who resides in the

neighbouring town.

The present plate, which represents the principal entrance, will serve

to convey some idea of the general character of the building, as well as

of the immense size of the massy towers, and of the crumbling appearance

of their surface. Two piers only remain of the draw-bridge, by which

they were approached; and the three successive arches of the gateway are

torn into little more than shapeless rents. It would be very difficult

to convey, by means of any engraving, an adequate idea of the grand

character of the whole ruin, or of its imposing situation. Still more

difficult would be the attempt to represent its masonry. The walls have

certainly been in most places, and probably in all, covered with a

facing of brick, of comparatively modern date; and in some parts this

facing still remains, or, where it is torn off, nothing but rubble is

visible. In other places they appear to have been constructed of

alternate layers of brick and flint, disposed with the same regularity

as in Roman buildings; and the thin form of these bricks leads also to

the impression that they are of Roman workmanship.

If such a supposition may be allowed to be well founded, the first

establishment of a fortress in this situation is probably but little

posterior to the Christian æra; and many antiquarians are disposed to

believe that such was really the case. At the same time, even allowing

the truth of this surmise in its fullest extent, it is most probable

that the Roman castle had fallen into ruin and disuse long before the

Norman conquest.

Both William of Jumieges and the chronicle of St. Wandrille expressly

mention, that William, son to Duke Richard II. received from his nephew,

the conqueror, the earldom of Arques, and built a castle there. Other

writers ascribe the origin of the fortress to the eighth century, and

others to the latter part of the twelfth. Nothing is now left

sufficiently perfect to determine the point, nor any thing that can

justly be considered decisive of the style of its architecture.

The situation of the castle is very bold: it crowns the extremity of a

ridge of chalk hills of considerable height, which commencing to the

west of Dieppe, and terminating at this spot, have full command of the

valley below. The fosse which surrounds the walls is wide and deep. The

outline of the fortress is oval, but not regularly so; and it is varied

by towers of uncertain shape, placed at unequal distances. The two

entrance towers, and those nearest to them to the north and south, are

considerably larger than the rest. One of these larger lateral towers[1]

is of a most unusual form. It appears as if the original intention of

the architect had been to make it circular; but that, changing his

design in the middle of his work, he had attached to it a triangular

appendage, probably by way of a bastion. Three others adjoining this are

square, and indeed appear to partake as much of the character of

buttresses as of towers.

The castle is internally divided into two wards, the first of which, on

entering, is every where rough with the remains of foundations: the

inner, which is by far the largest, is approached by a square gate-house

with high embattled walls, and contains towards its farther end the

quadrangular keep, whose shell alone is standing. The walls of this are

of great height: in their perfect state they were carefully faced with

large square stones, but these are principally torn away. The crypts

beneath the castle are spacious, and may still be traversed for a

considerable length.

NOTES:

[1] See _Account of a Tour in Normandy_, I. p. 37, t. 3.

PLATES II. III. IV.

ABBEY CHURCH OF JUMIEGES.

Before the revolution despoiled France of her monastic institutions, the

right bank of the Seine, from Rouen to the British Channel, displayed an

almost uninterrupted line of establishments of this nature. Within a

space of little more than forty miles, were included the abbeys of St.

Wandrille, Jumieges, Ducler, and St. Georges de Bocherville.

[Illustration: Plate 2. ABBEY CHURCH OF JUMIEGES.

_West Front._]

The most illustrious of these was Jumieges; it occupied a delightful

situation in a peninsula, formed by the curvature of the stream, where

the convent had existed from the reign of Clovis II. and had, with only

a temporary interruption, caused by the invasion of the Normans,

maintained, for eleven centuries, an even course of renown; celebrated

alike for the beauty of its buildings, the extent of its possessions,

and the number and sanctity of its inmates. Philibert, second abbot of

Rebais, in the diocese of Meaux, was the founder of this monastery. He

migrated hither with only a handfull of monks; but the community

increased with such surprising rapidity, that in the time of Alcadrus,

his immediate successor, the number was already swelled to nine hundred,

and, except upon the occasion just mentioned, this amount never appears

to have experienced any sensible diminution.

The monastery of Jumieges reckoned among its abbots men of the most

illustrious families of France. In early times, Hugh, the grandson of

Charlemagne, held the pastoral staff: it afterwards passed through the

hands of Louis d'Amboise, brother to the cardinal, and of different

members of the houses of Clermont, Luxembourg, d'Este, and Bourbon.

The abbatial church, as it now stands, (if indeed it does now stand, for

in 1818, when drawings were made for these plates, its demolition was

proceeding with rapidity,) was chiefly built in the eleventh century, by

Robert the Abbot, who was translated from Jumieges to the bishopric of

London, and thence to the archiepiscopal throne of Canterbury. The

western front (_see plate 2_) is supposed to be certainly of that

period, and all very nearly of the same æra, though the southern tower

is known to be somewhat the most modern. The striking difference in the

plan of these towers, might justly lead to the inference, that there was

also a material difference in their dates, and that they were not both

of them part of the original plan; but there do not appear to be any

grounds for such a supposition. On the other hand, the contrary seems to

be well established; and those who are best acquainted with the

productions of Norman architects, will scarcely be surprised at

anomalies of this nature.

[Illustration: Plate 3. ABBEY CHURCH OF JUMIEGES.

_Parts of the Nave._]

The interior of the nave (_plate 3_) is also a work of the same period,

except the lofty pillars that support the cornice, and the symbols of

the evangelists that are placed near the windows of the clerestory.

These were additions made towards the latter end of the seventeenth

century. The pillars were rendered necessary by the bad state of the

roof: the symbols were added only by way of ornament. They are of

beautiful sculpture, and, as such, have lately been engraved upon a

larger scale, in an _Account of a Tour in Normandy, in 1818_, (II. p.

27) which work also contains a general view of the ruins of Jumieges,

and a representation of some ancient trefoil arches that are very

remarkable.

Of the square central tower one side only is now remaining. This tower

was despoiled of its spire in 1557. The Choir and Lady-Chapel are almost

entirely gone. They were of pointed architecture; and it appears that

they were erected during some of the latter years of the thirteenth

century, or at the commencement of the fourteenth.

In the Lady-Chapel lay the heart of Agnes Sorel, who died at the

neighbouring village of Mesnil, on the ninth of February, 1450, while

her royal lover, Charles VII. was residing at Jumieges, intent upon the

siege of Honfleur. Her body was interred in the collegiate church of

Loches in Touraine. Upon her monument at Jumieges was originally placed

her effigy, in the act of offering her heart to the Virgin. But this

statue was destroyed by the Huguenots, who are said to have been guilty

of the most culpable excesses in this monastery. Agnes' tomb remained

till the revolution, when it was swept away with all the rest, and,

among others, with one of great historical curiosity in the neighbouring

church dedicated to St. Peter; for the convent of Jumieges contained

two churches, the larger under the invocation of the Holy Virgin, and a

smaller by its side, sacred to the chief of the apostles.

The tomb here alluded to was called by the name of _le tombeau des

Enerves_, or _de Gemellis_; and so much importance was attached to it,

that it has even been supposed that the Latin name of Jumieges,

_Gemeticum_, was a corruption from the word _gemellis_. Upon the

monument were figures of two young noblemen, intended, as it is said, to

represent twin sons of Clovis and Bathilda, who, for sedition, were

punished by being hamstrung and confined in this monastery.

[Illustration: Plate 4. ABBEY OF JUMIEGES.

_Arch on the West Front._]

The third plate of Jumieges, which is copied from a drawing by Miss

Elizabeth Turner, represents a noble arch-way, the entrance to a porch

that leads to a gallery adjoining the former cloisters, and known by the

name of the _Knight's Hall_. It is a remarkably fine specimen of a very

early pointed arch, still preserving all the ornaments of the

semi-circular style, and displaying them in great richness and beauty.

There is no authority for the date of this gallery: nor does it appear

that any historical record is preserved respecting it. The style of the

architecture would lead to the referring of it, without much hesitation,

to the latter part of the thirteenth century.

PLATES V.-XI.

ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE.

[Illustration: Plate 5. ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE.

_West Front._]

In a work like the present, devoted expressly to the elucidation of the

Architectural Antiquities of Normandy, and more particularly intended to

illustrate that style of architecture which prevailed during the time

when the province was governed by its own Dukes, it has appeared

desirable to select one or two objects, and to exhibit them, as far as

possible, in their various details.

Under this idea, the abbey church of St. Georges de Bocherville has been

taken from the upper division of the province, and that of the Holy

Trinity at Caen from the lower. Both of these are noble edifices; both

are in nearly the same state in which they were left by the Norman

architects; and both of them are buildings whose dates may be cited with

positive certainty.

The abbey of St. Georges was situated upon an eminence on the right bank

of the Seine, two leagues below Rouen. It owed its origin to Ralph de

Tancarville, lord of the village, about the year 1050. A rage for the

building and endowing of monastic establishments prevailed at that

period throughout Normandy; and this nobleman, who had been the

preceptor to Duke William in his youth, and was afterwards his

chamberlain, unwilling to be outdone by his compeers in deeds of piety

and magnificence, founded this monastery and built the church in honor

of the Virgin and St. George. Both the conqueror and his queen assisted

the pious labour by endowments to the convent; and Ordericus Vitalis

relates how, upon the decease of the monarch, the monks of St. Gervais,

at Rouen, where he died, made a solemn procession to the church of St.

Georges de Bocherville, there to offer up their prayers for the soul of

their departed sovereign.

At the revolution the abbatial church was fortunate enough to become

parochial, and it thus escaped the ruin in which nearly the whole of the

monastic buildings throughout France were at that time involved. Its

previous good fortune in having been so very little exposed to injury or

to alteration, is even more to be wondered at.

[Illustration: Plate 6. ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE.

_General view._]

The general view of the church, (_plate 6_) for the drawing of which the

author is indebted to Miss Elizabeth Turner, is calculated to convey a

faithful idea of the effect of the whole. Whatever is here seen is

purely Norman, except the spire; and upon the subject of spires

antiquaries are far from being agreed: some regarding them as a

comparatively modern invention, while others, on the contrary, believe

that the use of them may be traced to a very remote period. The

semi-circular east end, with a roof of high pitch, the windows separated

by shallow buttresses, or by slender cylindrical pillars, and the

grotesque corbel-table, are, all of them, characteristics of the early

Norman style: a greater peculiarity of the present building, and one

indeed that is found in but few others, lies in the small semi-circular

chapels attached to the sides of the transepts.

The west front (_plate 5_) exhibits a deviation from the general style

of the church, in the two towers with which it is flanked. The shape of

the arches in these plainly indicates a later æra; but they are early

instances of pointed architecture. The grand entrance is displayed upon

a larger scale in the seventh plate. The ornaments to this door-way are

rich and varied, and there are but few finer portals in Normandy. But in

specimens of this description the duchy is far from being able to bear a

comparison with England. It would be difficult, perhaps impossible, to

assign a satisfactory reason for this circumstance; and yet the fact is

so obvious, that it cannot fail to have occurred to every one who has

paid any attention to the architecture of the two countries.

In the interior of the church there is scarcely an architectural anomaly

to be discovered. The only alterations are those which were rendered

necessary by the injuries done to the building in the religious wars,

during the sixteenth century; and the repairs on that occasion extended

only to a portion of the roof, and of the upper part of the wall on the

south side of the nave. As a satisfactory specimen of the character of

the whole of the inside, the south transept has been selected for the

subject of the eighth plate. In this, however, as well as in the

opposite one, there is a peculiarity which requires to be noticed; that,

within the church, at the distance of a few feet from the end wall, is

placed a column, from which an arch springs on either side, occupying

the whole width of the transept, and thus forming an open screen. The

screen terminates, above, in a plain flat wall, which is carried to but

a very short distance higher than the arches, so as to be nearly on a

line with the triforium. The same arrangement exists also in some other

churches in Normandy; as in that of the royal abbey of St. Stephen at

Caen, in the abbey church at Cerisy, in the abbey church at Fécamp, and

in the cathedral at Séez. In the two last mentioned buildings, it is

found connected with the pointed architecture. At Cerisy, a church,

erected A.D. 1030, by Robert, father to the Conqueror, the screen is

surmounted by a row of seventeen semi-circular arches, which rise to

about half the height of the columns of the triforium, and form an

elegant parapet. It is possible that there may have been originally some

decoration of the same kind at St. Georges. At Fécamp, the screen is

carried up to the roof by three tiers, each consisting of three arches;

and the recess thus made, is still used as a chapel, having an altar at

the east end, and, in the centre, an ancient font. Such may have been

originally the case at St. Georges; and thus we may account for the

small semi-circular additions to the transepts, one of which is visible

in the general view of the church. Mr. Cotman, however, suggests another

idea, which may have entered into the mind of the architect of St.

Georges; that, by means of this screen at the end of the transepts, the

aisles of the nave would receive apparent length; from the columns,

which form the screen, ranging in a line with those of the outer walls

of the church. Among our English ecclesiastical buildings, there are

similar screens in the transepts of Winchester cathedral[2], where the

portion of the church that remains in its original state, greatly

resembles, in its architecture, the church of St. Georges de

Bocherville, and is known to have been erected at nearly the same

date[3].

[Illustration: Plate 7. ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE.

_West entrance._]

[Illustration: Plate 8. ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE.

_South Transept._]

[Illustration: Plate 9. ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE.

_Sculptured Capitals._]

Within the spandrils of the arches, just mentioned, are two highly

curious bas-reliefs, figured here in the _tenth plate_, and marked A and

B. They are on square tablets, cut out of the solid stone, in the same

manner as the blocks of a stone engraving; the rims being left elevated,

so as to form rude frames. One of them represents a prelate, who holds a

crozier in his left hand, while the first two fingers of the right are

elevated in the action of giving the blessing. Below him are two small

heads; but it would be as difficult to conjecture what they are intended

to typify, or why they are placed there, as it would be to state the

meaning of the artist, in having represented the whole of his vestment

as composed of parallel diagonal lines. In the opposite bas-relief, are

seen two knights on horseback, in the act of jousting; as rude a piece

of sculpture, especially with respect to the size and form of the

steeds, as can well be imagined; and yet it possesses a degree of

spirit, worthy of a better age. The shields of the riders are oblong;

their tilting spears pointless; their conical helmets terminate in a

nasal below, like the figures in the Bayeux tapestry. "This

coincidence," as has been observed elsewhere[4], "is interesting, as

deciding a point of some moment towards establishing the antiquity of

that celebrated relic, by setting it beyond a doubt, that such helmets

were used anterior to the conquest; for it is certain, that these

basso-relievos are coeval with the building that contains them."

The nave of the church of St. Georges is, in its height, divided into

three compartments: the lowest consists of a row of square, massy piers,

varied only by a few small columns attached to their angles, and

connected by wide arches, which are generally without any other ornament

than plain fluted mouldings; the second compartment, or triforium, is

composed of a uniform series of small arches, broken, at intervals, by

the truncated columns; which, supporting the groinings of the roof

above, terminate abruptly below, nearly upon a level with the capitals

of the lowest arches; in the clerestory, the arches are also simple and

unornamented; their size nearly intermediate between those of the first

and second tiers. It is almost needless to mention, that, in a perfect

building, of such a date, the whole of the arches are semi-circular. The

same is equally the case in the choir; but this part of the edifice is

considerably richer in its architectural decorations; and the noble

arch, which separates it from the nave, is surrounded with a broad band

of the embattled moulding, inclosing two others of the chevron moulding.

A string-course, of unusual size, formed of what is called the cable

ornament, goes round the whole interior of the building.

The general effect of the semi-circular east end, shews a striking

resemblance between the church of St. Georges and Norwich cathedral; and

those who take pleasure in researches of this description, will do well

to trace the points of similarity through other parts of the edifices.

The two kingdoms can scarcely boast more noble, or more perfect

buildings, of the Norman style; and there is the farther advantage, that

the difference between the periods of their respective erection is but

small. Our English cathedral rose in the early part of the reign of

William Rufus, when his follower, Herbert de Losinga, who, not content

with having purchased the bishopric for £1900, bought also the abbacy of

Winchester for his father, for £1000, was cited before the Pope for this

double act of simony, and, with difficulty, retained his mitre, upon the

condition of building sundry churches and monasteries. Norwich has,

indeed, a superiority in its tower, in regard to which, it may safely be

put in competition with any edifice of the same style, in Normandy or in

England. For beauty, richness, variety, and purity of ornament, there is

nothing like it. On the other hand, Norwich has undergone various

alterations, as well in its interior, as its exterior[5], and it has no

decoration of the same description comparable with the capitals in the

church of St. Georges. These are so curious, that it has been thought

right to devote to them the _ninth_ and _tenth plates_ of this work[6].

The capitals near the west end of the church, are comparatively simple:

they become considerably more elaborate on advancing towards the choir;

and it is most interesting to observe in them, how the Norman architects

appear, in some instances, to have been intent upon copying the Roman

model, or even adding to it a luxury of ornament, which it never knew,

yet still preserving a classical feeling and a style of beauty, of which

the proudest ages of architecture need not be ashamed; while, in other

cases, the rudeness of the design and execution is such, that it can

scarcely be conceived, but that they were executed by a barbarous

people, just emerged from their hyperborean woods, and equally strangers

to the cultivation of art, and the finer feelings of humanity. And yet,

even in some of those of the latter description, attentive observation

may lead to traces of classical fables, or representations of the holy

mysteries of Christianity. Thus, one of the capitals[7] seems designed

to portray the good Shepherd and the Lamb; another[8] appears to allude

to the battle between the followers of Æneas and the Harpies. It would

not, perhaps, be going too far, to say, that many of the others have

reference to the northern mythology, and some of them, probably, to

Scandinavian history.

[Illustration: Plate 10. CAPITALS IN THE ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE

BOCHERVILLE.]

[Illustration: Plate 11. ABBEY CHURCH OF ST. GEORGES DE BOCHERVILLE.

_Sculpture in the Cloisters._]

In the chapter-house, which stands between the church and the monastic

buildings, the capitals are decidedly historical, and exhibit an

apparent connection very unusual in similar cases. The _eleventh plate_

contains some of these[9]. Another, and of the greatest curiosity, now

lost, has been etched in Mr. Turner's _Tour in Normandy_, from a drawing

by M. Langlois, a very able and indefatigable artist of Rouen. It

represents a series of royal minstrels, playing upon different musical

instruments. This part of the building is known to have been erected

towards the close of the twelfth century, and is consequently an hundred

years posterior to the church. It is now extremely dilapidated, and

employed as a mill. The capitals here figured, are taken from three

arches that formed the western front. The sculpture in the upper line,

and in a portion of the second, most probably refers to some of the

legends of Norman story: the remainder seems intended to represent

the miraculous passage of Jordan and the capture of Jericho, by the

Israelites, under the command of Joshua. The detached moulding on the

same plate, is copied from the archivolt of one of these arches: the

style of its ornament is altogether peculiar. To the pillars that

support the same arches, are attached whole-length figures, in high

relief, of less than the natural size. Two of them represent females;

the third, a man; and one of the former has her hair disposed in long

braided tresses, that reach on either side to a girdle. All of them hold

labels with inscriptions, which fall down to their feet in front. The

braided locks, and the general style of sculpture, shew a resemblance

between these statues and those on the portals of the churches of St.

Denys and Chartres, as well as those which stood formerly at the

entrance of St. Germain des Prés, at Paris, all which are figured by

Montfaucon, in his _Monumens de la Monarchie Française_, and by him

referred to the sovereigns of the Merovingian dynasty; but have been

believed, by subsequent writers, to be the productions of the eleventh

or twelfth century, an opinion which the statues at St. Georges may be

considered to confirm.

NOTES:

[2] See _Britton's Winchester Cathedral_, ground plan and plate 12.

[3] _Milner's Winchester_, I. p. 194.--Other authors, I am well aware,

and those of great weight, have said much with regard to the _Saxon

work_ at Winchester; but, though I have examined the building itself,

and the various publications respecting it, with some care, I confess I

have met with no portion that did not appear to me to be truly Norman.

[4] _Turner's Tour in Normandy_, II. p. 10.

[5] The complete uniformity of style throughout the church of St.

Georges, joined to the absence of all screens or other objects whatever,

that might intercept the sight from west to east, produces an effect,

not only grand, but altogether deceptive. It is impossible not to admit

the superior judgment of the French, in thus keeping their religious

edifices free from incumbrances; it is scarcely possible, too, not to

feel persuaded, that the Norman church is larger than the English,

though their respective dimensions are in reality as follows:

NORWICH. ST. GEORGES.

Length of nave 200 feet 135 feet

-------- choir 183 92

-------- transepts 180 102

Width of the nave with aisles 70 64-1/2

[6] In the former of these plates, the capitals, marked Nos. 1, 6, 8, 9,

10, and 12, are taken from the exterior of the east end; Nos. 2, 6, and

7, from the nave; and Nos. 3, 4, and 11, from the door-way. In the

latter plate, the exterior of the east end has supplied Nos. 1, 2, 3, 6,

7, 8, and 10; the nave, Nos. 4 and 9; and the door-way, No. 5.

[7] Plate 10, No. 8.

[8] Plate 10, No. 5.

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