is situated on a high and somewhat conical hill, about a mile from
Llangollen. The building has been about a hundred yards long, and fifty
in breadth; and it formerly occupied the whole crown of the mountain.
From its extremely elevated situation (being about 910 feet above the
surface of the Dee at Llangollen bridge), it must have been a place of
vast strength. On the side which is most accessible, it was defended by
trenches cut through the solid rock. The present remains consist of
nothing more than a few shattered walls. There is a well of pure water
on the top of the hill.
The views hence on every side are very grand. Towards the east stretches
the whole vale of Llangollen, through which the Dee foams over its rocky
bed; and beyond the vale is seen all the flat and highly cultivated
country that extends for many miles. Just beneath lies the town of
Llangollen, and towards the west is the vale of Crucis, with its
back-ground of lofty mountains, whose dark sides are agreeably varied
with wood and meadow. This fortress, from the style of its architecture,
is evidently the work of the Britons; but by whom built, or when
demolished, is a matter of mystery. Old Churchyard, who visited it in
the sixteenth century, calls it “an old ruynous thing.”
Vale Crucis Abbey,
or, as it is called by the Welsh, _Monachlog Llan Egwestl_, about two
miles from Llangollen, and one mile and a half from Castell Dinas Bran,
on the right of the road towards Ruthin, is a grand and majestic ruin,
affording some noble specimens of ancient Gothic architecture. There are
still remaining of the church the east and west ends, and the south
transept. Several pillars and arches also remain as interesting
memorials of this exquisite relic of a past age.
The cloister on the south side, which a century ago, was only a shell, is
now converted into a dwelling-house, the residence of the person who
farms the adjacent lands. Three rows of groined arches, on single round
pillars, support the dormitory, which is now a loft for containing corn,
approached by steps from without. The area of the church is overgrown
with tall ash trees, which hide from the sight some part of the ruin, but
contribute greatly to its picturesque beauty.
Vale Crucis was a house of Cistercian monks, dedicated to the Virgin
Mother. It was indebted for its foundation, about the year 1200, to
Madoc ap Griffith Maelor, Lord of Bromfield and Dinas Brân, who, after
various successes, and acquiring much booty by the reduction and ruin of
English castles, dedicated a portion of his booty to the service of
religion. He was interred here. At the dissolution the revenues appear
to have amounted to about £200 per annum. A short time ago, the burial
place of the monks was accidentally discovered, in the garden at the back
of the farm-house, where many of their remains were found, which must
have been there in an undisturbed state for six hundred years.
Pillar of Eliseg.
The Vale of Crucis is indebted for its name to this cross or pillar,
which is to be found in a field near the abbey, and just opposite to the
second mile-stone from Llangollen. This pillar is very ancient. The
Rev. John Price, Bodleian librarian, (uncle of Dr. Price of Llangollen,)
a great antiquary, wrote to Mr. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, respecting this
long neglected pillar, and at his suggestion it was placed in the
position it now occupies. It appears to have been erected upwards of a
thousand years ago, in memory of Eliseg (the father of Brochwel
Yscythrog, Prince of Powys, who was slain at the battle of Chester in
607), by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson. The inscription is much
defaced, so that it cannot be satisfactorily traced. The shaft was once
above twelve feet long, but having been thrown down and broken, sometime
during the civil wars, its upper part, only about eight feet in length,
was left. After these commotions, it was suffered to lie neglected for
more than a century.
Post Cysylltau, or Cysylltau Aqueduct.
From Llangollen, most tourists visit this stupendous work of art. It is
a wonderful effort of ingenious contrivance, and affords a convincing
proof of the incalculable capability of human energies when directed by
science. This aqueduct was constructed for the purpose of conveying the
Ellesmere canal over the river and vale of the Dee. It was commenced in
1795, from designs by Mr. Telford, and completed in ten years. Its
direction is from north to south, crossing the Dee at right angles; and
it forms, in connexion with the exquisite scenery surrounding it, a noble
and magnificent picture. To view it to the best advantage, the stranger
must descend on one side of it, into the valley beneath; he will then be
impressed with its stupendous character. Though the aqueducts of the
Romans were superior in length, in other respects they were inferior to
this modern structure.
The tourist may proceed along the high road towards Chirk, four miles
from the town, where a turning to the left will conduct him to Pont
Cysylltau Aqueduct; or crossing the bridge at Llangollen, ascend the hill
to the canal, and walk along its banks till he arrives at the aqueduct.
The high road is preferable, as it commands some engaging prospects.
The aqueduct, in length 1007 feet, consists of nineteen arches, each 45
feet in the span, with the addition of 10 feet 6 inches of iron work in
continuation at each end. The supporting piers are stone, of a pyramidal
shape, measuring at the base 21 feet by 14 feet wide; but diminishing
upwards to 12 feet by 7 at the top; and their height about 116 feet.
Over this immense arcade is extended a trough, or large open caisson,
made of cast iron, 11 feet 10 inches broad, by which the water of the
canal is conveyed over the river 1009 feet to the opposite level. Two
iron plates are screwed together from centre to centre of each arch; and
along one side of the canal is a towing path, four feet in breadth, with
a handsome iron balustrade, as a defence for man and horse. The
elevation collectively will stand thus:—
Feet. Inches.
Height of piers 116 0
Depth of trough, or caisson 5 6
Height of balustrade 4 7
Total height from surface of the Dee 126 1
At the southern end is an embankment of earth, 1500 feet in length, and
seventy-five feet in height nearest the abutment of the arches. The
whole undertaking is said to have cost £47,069 : 6 : 7.
On the centre arch is the following inscription:—“The nobility and gentry
of the adjacent counties, having united their efforts with the great
commercial interest of this country, in creating an intercourse and union
between England and North Wales, by a navigable communication of the
three rivers, Severn, Dee, and Mersey, for the mutual benefit of
agriculture and trade, caused the first stone of this aqueduct of Pont
Cyssyllte to be laid on the 25th day of July, MDCCXCV, when Richard
Myddelton, of Chirk, Esq., one of the original patrons of the Ellesmere
canal, was Lord of the Manor, and in the reign of our Sovereign George
the Third; when the equity of the laws and the security of property
promoted the general welfare of the nation, while the arts and sciences
flourished by his patronage, and the conduct of civil life was improved
by his example.”
The antiquarian will find some interesting remains in this neighbourhood
worthy of investigation. Amongst them is a square tower, very strongly
built, in advance of and at the foot of the hill on which Crow Castle
stands. For many years it has been appropriated as part of a farm-house,
called ‘The Tower.’ The walls of the original building or tower are very
thick; and in one corner of the quadrangle there is a winding stone
staircase, now concealed by a bookcase. The probability is that this old
tower was an advanced station belonging to the castle. There are also
vestiges of a nunnery or monastery at a place called Pengwern.
About six miles from Llangollen, on the Ruthin road, is a curious old
building, called Rhydidris, near Llandaglan. The site, the extensive
stabling, and the antique curiosities in the house, raise the probability
that it has been garrisoned, and also been a military station of great
importance.
The Shrewsbury and Chester Railway Company intend to run a branch from
their main line at Ruabon to Llangollen.
Angling Stations.
The Dee from Corwen to Llangollen.
“ “ from Llangollen to Overton.
LLANGYNOG,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)
Bala 11
Llanfyllyn 7
Llanrhaiadr 6
Llangynog (the church of St. Cynog) is a small village, situated in a
pleasing slip of fertile land, above which rises a stupendous rock of
coarse slate. The river Tanat, which runs through this village, is
celebrated for its delicious trout. The upper end of the vale is bounded
by two vast precipices; between them juts out the rude promontory of Moel
ddu Vawr. On the north side of this valley is the house of
Llechwend-garth, the occasional residence of the late Thomas Thomas, Esq.
of Downing, near Holywell, whose daughter married H. Davies Griffith,
Esq. of Caer-Rhûn, Caernarvonshire, who, in consequence, became possessed
of this estate, and was in 1835 high sheriff of the county of Montgomery.
The new inn affords tolerable accommodations.
At Craig-y-Mwyn. somewhat more than two miles from the village, in 1692,
a vein of lead ore was discovered, so valuable as to yield to the Powys
family a clear revenue of at least £20,000 a year. It had been worked to
the depth of about one hundred yards, when on a sudden the water broke in
with such continuous power, that the proprietor was compelled to abandon
the undertaking. About the commencement of the present century, however,
the mine was leased by a company, who drove a level beneath it, in order
to draw off the water, and continued the working of it for some time;
they occasionally found masses of pure ore, weighing from 70 to 1001b.
each. After some time the works were again discontinued, until a few
years ago, when the old shaft was reopened, and the operations proceeded
with considerable success.
At Craig-y-Gribin, in this parish, are some quarries of excellent blue
slate, of strong and durable quality.
LLANHAIARN,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)
Caernarvon 13
Pwllheli 7
This is a small village, situated near the west coast of the promontory
of Lleyn. Its church, standing on an eminence, forms a good
land-mark.—Between this place and the sea, the lofty range of the Rival
(or Yr Eifl) Mountains, which form conspicuous objects from Caernarvon
and other parts of the country. Upon the first of these eminences, about
a mile from Llanhaiarn, is Tre ’r Caeri (or the Town of Fortresses),
which Mr. Pennant describes as “the most perfect and magnificent, as well
as the most artfully constructed British post he ever behold.” The only
accessible side was defended by three walls, which appear to have been
very lofty. The area is irregularly shaped, and near the centre is a
square space surrounded by the fragments of habitations.
LLANIDAN,
(_Anglesea_.)
Caernarvon 3
Llanedwen 2
Menai Bridge 6
Plas Newydd 3
Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, not far from
the spot where the Romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who
murdered the Britons by thousands. It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr
Gad (the Great Army’s Field). It lies three hundred yards from the
Menai, and consists of about twenty acres. The Romans entered the water
about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, where the shore
is flat, the water shallow, and only three quarters of a mile wide. At
low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry.
After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after six years of
thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids returned and assumed their
authority and property, which they held till the year 76; when Agricola
crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, landed at a field yet
called Pont or Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same
tragedy was re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields.
The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical remains.
Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the house is a clumsy
building, but the situation is most pleasant.
LLANIDLOES,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)
Aberystwyth 30
Devil’s Bridge 19
London 193
Machynlleth 20
Newtown 14
Plinlimmon 7
Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated near the
Severn. The population of the whole parish is 4261, including 2562
inhabitants of the town, who are principally employed in spinning and
weaving of flannels, the manufacture of which has been established in
this town from a very early period, and has continued materially to
increase; the softest and most durable texture is made here. The
principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well conducted
establishment, where post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the
Queen’s Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where
travellers may be well accommodated. By the late Reform Act, this town
was made one of the contributory boroughs of the county.
The church was originally founded towards the close of the fifth or at
the beginning of the sixth century. Of the original building the towers
only remain. The present structure was built about 200 years ago. In
1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the
church was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in 1824.
As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places of worship for
various dissenting congregations. The market-day is on Saturday.
A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was erected over
the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and excellent line of
road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which makes a direct and regular
communication between North and South Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the
manor; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are
appointed, in whom the government of the place is vested. In the
vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the property of
opulent individuals.
Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llanbrynmair, are two
fine waterfalls, near to each other, of which the principal, called Ffrwd
Vawr, is very grand, especially after heavy rains; the water having a
perpendicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet.
Plinlimmon.
Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the lofty
mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the five-peaked
mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, of which it forms
the centre: and from this place the ascent to its summit is usually made,
being only seven miles distant from the town, whence guides from the
principal inns are provided. From the highest point is obtained a fine
prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of
Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. George’s
channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdon range of
mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth; on the
north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part
of the counties of Hereford and Salop. This mountain derives a
considerable degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers
Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary
only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and the
Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the picturesque beauty
of their scenery.
The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, rises on
the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate spring, and is
speedily joined and increased by other springs rising near to its source,
and by several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes.
The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern side of the
mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls into the Severn near
Chepstow.
The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad Rheidiol, and
falls into the sea at Aberystwyth.
The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn.
About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without fish. Two
gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth,
were grousing on Plinlimmon, when the conversation turned on the
peculiarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and
the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. A staff net
was procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river Rheidiol
were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed with millions of
horse leeches. Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon
their sides faint and exhausted: and strange as it may appear, the
rapacious leeches attached themselves to the sick fish, and actually
devoured them. Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their
progeny have enforced the _lex talionis_ with a vengeance; and while the
fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen.
At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic cataract,
and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn rolls its waters
over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of
picturesque shapes.
About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a spacious pool,
called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of nearly one hundred acres;
it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and affords excellent fishing; it
is frequented by wild fowl; and during the summer season it is the resort
of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation boats belonging to
gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on the pool.
Angling Stations.
_Distance from Llanidloes_. _Miles_.
The Clywedog
Bodaioch, on the Tavannon 5
Glan Trevnant 5
Llandinam 6½
Llangurig 5
LLANRHAIADR,
(_Denbighshire_.)
Denbigh 4
Ruthin 4
Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between Ruthin and
Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd.
It derives its name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon
Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog.
The church is a very interesting and handsome structure. On the east
window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, executed
about 1533. In the church-yard is a curious inscription to John ap
Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, king of Powys.
The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way extremely
beautiful.
LLANRHAIADR-YN-MOCHNANT,
(_Denbighshire_.)
Bala 18
Llanfyllyn 5
Llangynog 6
Oswestry 14
This is a small village situated at the extremity of the county, in a
deep hollow, surrounded by mountains.
Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was
vicar of this place. He was promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff, and
in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died in 1604. This valley is
called Mochnant, (the Vale of the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which,
distant from the village about four miles and a half, is
Pistyll Rhaiadr,
(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest waterfall in Wales.
The little river Rhaiadr here falls down an almost perpendicular black
crag, of 240 feet in height. For about two-thirds of this space, the
water slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence through
a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, falls into a
basin. It then passes though a well-wooded dell, forming a boundary line
which separates the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after
assisting to form some pretty scenes, falls into the Tanat. Near to the
waterfall is a neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn,
where the stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation.
LLANRWST,
(_Denbighshire_.)
Abergele 22
Bettws-y-Coed 4
Cerniogau 14
Capel Curig 10
Conway 12
Denbigh 22
Llanrhychwyn 2½
London 218
Maen-Twrog 20
This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the river Conway,
which here forms the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and
Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by
majestic and well-wooded hills, the land at the foot of which is
plentifully watered and remarkably fertile. The town consists
principally of small houses and shops, with a population of 3905
inhabitants. It has a market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and
South Wales bank. The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of
public entertainment is sadly wanted here.
The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant structure,
built about the year 1636, from a plan by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at
an expense of £1000, defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it
connects. It is an extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may
be caused by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing
himself rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have lately
been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and Chester roads,
and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved state of which has
induced a considerable increase of visitors, during the summer months, to
view the picturesque and much admired scenery of this neighbourhood.
Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the spinning of
woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, constitute the principal
branches of trade. In the market-place stands the town-hall, a
substantial structure, rebuilt in 1842.
The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, was a small edifice,
situated close to the margin of the river, and built about the year 1170;
and was supposed, from its style of architecture, to have been erected in
the fifteenth century: it contained a screen of beautifully carved oak,
brought here from the abbey of Maenan, which was used as a gallery for
the singers. A new church has, however, been built on its site; and
adjoining it, on the other side, is Gwydir chapel, a handsome square
castellated edifice, the interior of which is decorated with a profusion
of carved work; it was built by Sir Richard Wynne, from a design by Inigo
Jones, in 1633, as a burial place for his family, the deceased members of
which had previously been interred in the chancel, and contains many
elegantly engraved brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this
family. On the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the
pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to Owen Gwynedd,
prince of North Wales. On the southern wall is a mutilated monument to
the memory of Sir John Wynne, Bart., a learned antiquary, and an
indefatigable gleaner of materials for the illustration of Welsh history.
In the centre of the chapel, upon the floor, lies the stone coffin of
Llywelyn the Great, who died in 1240, and was interred in the abbey which
he had founded at Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from that
place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old parish
church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured by rubbish, until placed
in its present more appropriate situation. The same attention has
likewise been paid to another piece of antiquity placed near it, a
recumbent armed effigy of Howel Coetmor, grandson of Davydd, brother to
Llywelyn ap Gruffydd; he was the owner of the Gwydir estate, which was
sold by one of his descendants to the family of Wynne. There are in the
parish eleven places of worship for dissenters. A new church, called by
the inhabitants the English church, has lately been erected about half a
mile from Llanrwst. It is a neat and commodious edifice.
Gwydir.
This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from the town,
beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of oak, which clothe the
rocks projecting between the rivers Conway and Llugwy, near the foot of a
lofty precipice called Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the Falcon, was
erected by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555, and comprised an extensive,
but somewhat irregular pile of buildings, ranged in a quadrangular style,
and consisting of an inner and outer court. A great part of this edifice
was taken down in 1816, since which time the present structure, though on
a much smaller scale, has been built. A small portion of the former
mansion still remains, and is fitted up in an antique and elegant style.
That part which was built by Meredydd still remains, and contains some
magnificent rooms, in which are several articles of furniture made from
the druidical oaks of ancient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir
John and Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen. The pleasure grounds are
laid out with great taste, and contain a good collection of plants. Mary
Wynne, afterwards Duchess of Ancaster, the last of this great race,
conveyed the property to that family, and Lord Willoughby d’Eresby now
possesses it in right of his lady.
Vale of Llanrwst.
This delightful vale, which is neither so widely extended as the Vale of
Clwyd, nor so contracted as that of Llangollen, is regarded by the
admirers of picturesque scenery, as exhibiting the most varied assemblage
of beautiful features which the pencil could delineate. Mr. Burke has
pronounced it “the most charming spot in Wales.” The prospect of the
dense woods and towering hills which enclose it on each side, is
enlivened by the sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which present
an animated scene, either of small vessels arriving at the village of
Trefriw, or of the diminutive boats, called coracles, used in fishing for
salmon and smelts, considerable quantities of which are caught in their
respective seasons. At Mayne, within a mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of
high repute, and frequently used with great effect as a cold bath.
In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, is a cataract
which falls about 100 feet, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr. The quantity of
water, however, is seldom large enough to produce much effect. About two
miles and a half from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small but
beautiful village of
Trefriw,
situated on an eminence commanding a delightful and extensive view of the
Vale of Llanrwst. Near and above this lovely spot is the celebrated lake
of Geirionydd, on the banks of which lived the illustrious bard Taliesin,
called by his countrymen, by way of distinction, “Taliesin ben Beirdd,”
the chief of the bards. About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the
mountain village of Llanrhychwyn. Lord Willoughby d’Eresby has erected a
monument which his lordship intended should identify the spot where the
poet resided. Here, in a sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a
mound, are still to be seen some remains of an ancient habitation. The
river Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, for vessels of 60
tons burden, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the supply
of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, and carry back the
produce of the slate quarries and mines of the adjoining parishes. Five
miles S. E. of Llanrwst, is
Gwytherin,
a small village, very poor and primitive indeed, once celebrated as the
burial place of St. Winefred, but the pilgrimages to it are now few and
far between.—Three miles to the north stood the Abbey of Maenan; but a
large old house built out of its ruins now occupies its place.
Angling Stations.
_Distance from Llanrwst_. _Miles_.
Bettws-y-Coed 5
Trefriw 2½
Dolgarrog 4
Llanbedr 5
Dolwyddelan 8
_Various Lakes near Llanrhychwyn and
Dôlgarrog_, _viz._
Llyn Geirionydd 4
Llyn Bogynmyd 3
Llyn Cowlyd 6
Llyn Afangc.
Llyn Tal-y-llyn, and Llyn Crafnant,
near Llanrwst.
MACHYNLLETH,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)
Aberdovey 10
Aberystwyth 18
Chester 70
Dolgelley 16
Llanidloes 20
London 208
Newtown 28
Towyn 14
Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, superior to most in North
Wales for cleanliness and respectability, the streets being remarkably
spacious and regular in appearance. It is situated on the road leading
to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and North Wales, about a quarter of a mile
from the southern bank of the river Dyfi. The township contains a
population of 2482. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this
part of the country, where also some tanning business is carried on. The
Eagles is accounted the principal inn, and the Unicorn Arms, in the
middle of the town, has obtained a good repute for excellent
accommodation. The name of this town signifies the place of the river
Cynllaeth, which was the ancient name of the Dyfi or Dovey, in the valley
of which it stands. It is the supposed Maglana of the Romans, where, in
the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was stationed to awe the
mountaineers.
Here Owen Glyndwr summoned the nobility and gentry, of Wales in 1402.
Amongst the number, Sir David Gam attended with the design of murdering
Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and Sir David was seized. He would
have suffered instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends
interfered, through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to
confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some time. But Sir David
was scarcely set at liberty, ere he began to manifest a turbulent
disposition; which so exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house in
resentment, uttering to Gam’s servant the following extemporaneous
stanza:—
Os gweli di wr coch cam,
Yn ’mofyn am Gyrnigwen;
Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan,
A nod y glo ar ei phen.
David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by flying into England,
where he continued in favour at the court of Henry the Fifth.
In the august assembly called Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr exerted his
first acts of royalty, being then acknowledged as the Prince of Wales,
and proclaimed and crowned.
Machynlleth has a neat and commodious church, which has recently been
rebuilt. The town-hall or market-house was erected in 1783, by Sir W. W.
Wynn, grandfather of the present owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the
manor, and holds courts leet twice in the year. The county court is held
alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty sessions for the
hundred are held here occasionally. There are places of worship for
Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists; and a national school
liberally endowed.
The new line of road from Machynlleth to Towyn is exceedingly picturesque
and beautiful, particularly that part of it lying between Penal and
Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, and was opened in 1827; it
passes along the northern bank of the Dovey, and affords most delightful
views of the opposite coast of Cardiganshire, with the sea in the
distance.
MAEN-TWROG
(_Merionethshire_.)
Bala 22
Bedd-gelert 10
Capel Curig 22
Caernarvon 23
Dolgelley 18
Ffestiniog 3
Harlech 10
Slate Quarries 5
Tan-y-Bwlch 0¼
Tremadoc 10
The Cataracts 2
This is a small village, situated in the most romantic part of the highly
picturesque vale of Ffestiniog, on the southern bank of the river Dwyryd.
It derives its name from a large stone, still remaining in the
church-yard, called Maen-Twrog, erected to the memory of a British saint,
who died about the year 610. The church was rebuilt on the site of the
ancient structure in 1814, and is a neat stone edifice with a square
embattled tower. The Rev. Edmund Prys, Archdeacon of Merioneth, one of
the most eminent poets of his time, was rector of this parish: he
translated the metrical psalms used in the Welsh churches, and assisted
Bishop Morgan in translating the Bible. He died in the year 1623, and
was buried in Maen-Twrog church. Nothing can exceed the beauties of the
little vale in which the village is built; the well-wooded hills are
moderately high, and scattered with pleasing effect.
There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may be had. A Sunday
school was lately erected, at the expense of Mrs. Oakley. Within sight
of the village, and about a quarter of a mile distant, on the opposite
side of the river, is
Tan-y-Bwlch,
that is, Below the Pass, which is one of the most beautiful and
celebrated places connected with the range of Snowdonian mountains. It
takes its name from being situated at the brow of a hill, where it
overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog; and from Plâs Tan-y-Bwlch, the
residence of the late W. G. Oakley, Esq., which is delightfully and
romantically situated. The prospect from the terrace of this mansion is
most splendid and interesting, embracing the glorious scenery of the vale
of Ffestiniog, the river Dwyryd in all its meandering windings, the range
of Merionethshire mountains in the distance, the majestic castle of
Harlech, and the lake-like intervening views opening into Cardigan bay.
The Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, is conveniently situated in the centre
of the many attractive objects of this romantic district.
Several Roman antiquities have lately been found near this place,
consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed stones, some of which are in the
possession of Mrs. Oakley, and of J. Lloyd, Esq. of Pen-y-Glanau, who has
also an extensive collection of antiquities, found in different parts of
the Principality.
About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody valley, are two most
interesting waterfalls, on the Velin-Rhyd river, one called the Rhaiadr
Dû, or the Black Cataract, and the other the Raven Fall. From the former
the water rushes down a steep channel for about one hundred yards, and is
thence thrown with great force over three rocks, each of which takes a
different direction from the others: the depth of the fall is about forty
feet. The latter is not more than a quarter of a mile distant, and in
equal in beauty and grandeur. It consists of six different falls, each
of which, about thirty feet in extent, is beautifully picturesque, and,
as seen from the base of the rock over which the river descends, has a
sublime and romantic appearance. There are also several other falls of
minor interest on the streams that water the vale. At a cottage near the
bridge, which the tourist will cross before he leaves the main road from
Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be obtained.
After the natural beauties of this lovely district, the object of the
greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog railroad, for the conveyance of
slates from the Ffestiniog quarries to Port Madoc, which is cut through
rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen miles, and forms an inclined
plane the whole distance, the fall of which is equal to one in one
hundred and twenty, and the descent from its commencement to its
termination is a most delightful ride, through an infinite variety of
sublime and interesting scenery. For the accommodation of tourists and
visitors, a carriage, connected with the Oakley Arms Hotel, has been
placed on the line.
The quarries with which the railway is in connexion produce the best and
most valuable kind of slate. They belong to Lords Newborough,
Palmerston, and Powlett; Mrs. Oakley; S. Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner,
and Thomas Casson, Esquires.
MALLWYD.
(_Montgomeryshire_.)
Bala 19
Can-Office 12
Dinas Mowddwy 1½
Machynlleth 12
This is a little village, placed between the salient angles of three
abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, in a small valley
surrounded by many delightful scenes, through which runs the river Dyfi,
or Dovey.
The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a mile distant, are
particularly romantic and beautiful.
The church is a very humble Gothic structure. The churchyard is
remarkable for several large yew trees, one of which measures twenty-two
feet in girth, and forty feet in height.—Mallwyd has a good inn, where
post chaises may be procured.
MOLD,
(_Flintshire_.)
Chester 12
Denbigh 16
Flint 6
Hawarden 6
Holywell 10
London 200
Northop 3
Ruthin 10
Wrexham 11
The ancient British name of this place, (Yr Wyddgrûg), signifying a Lofty
and Conspicuous Hill, and also the Roman name of Mont Altus, of like
import, were derived from a high mound on the north-western side of the
present town, now called the Bailey Hill, a commanding eminence, partly
natural, and partly artificial, upon which a fortification appears to
have been erected at a very early period, but whether by the ancient
Britons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known. It is seated in a
pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn; consists principally of one
long spacious street; and in 1841, with that part of the township
immediately adjoining, contained 10,653 inhabitants. By the late Act for
amending the representation, Mold has been constituted a borough,
contributory with Flint and the other boroughs in the county, in the
return of a member to Parliament.
In the environs are numerous handsome seats and elegant mansions. The
principal inns are the Black Lion and Leeswood Arms hotels. To the
former a spacious assembly room has lately been added, and many agreeable
balls are there given. The parish abounds with mineral wealth; the
western district is rich in lead ore, which is generally found imbedded
in limestone, or chirtz; but the operations are much impeded by the
subterraneous stream of the Alyn, which here flows under ground for the
space of upwards of half a mile. Numerous tumuli are found in various
parts of the parish. In October 1833, some workmen, digging in a field
near the town, discovered a human skeleton, having at its feet an
earthern pot, which apparently contained ashes; and on the breast, with
other metal, a large plate of gold, much ornamented, valued at the sum of
£70: the trustees of the British Museum became the purchasers of these
antique relics.
In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting lead, and an
extensive cotton mill.
The county assizes are held in Mold. A new county hall has been erected
in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Thomas Jones,
Esq., architect, of Chester.
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have been erected in the
early part of the sixteenth century, is a spacious and handsome
structure, consisting of a nave, north and south aisles, and a chancel,
with a lofty square embattled tower, enriched with sculpture and crowned
with pinnacles, which though of more recent erection, precisely
correspond with the general design. The interior of the church is
embellished with architectural details and sculptured monuments. Among
numerous monuments worthy of examination, is an elegant one to the memory
of Richard Davies, Esq., of Llanerch; and against a pillar of the nave is
this singular epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne for himself, and placed
there during his life:—“In conformity to ancient usage, from a proper
regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures,
he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the
adjoining churchyard, and not in the church; and as he scorned flattering
of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered by
others when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his
lifetime: God be merciful to me a sinner!” In the burial ground are
deposited the remains of Wilson, the celebrated painter, styled “the
English Claude.” There are places of worship for various denominations
of dissenters. A branch railway from Mold, to form a junction with the
Shrewsbury and Holyhead lines, at Saltney, near Chester, will soon be
constructed.
Of the ancient castle not a vestige at present can be discerned, and its
very site is completely covered with thriving plantations. The Bailey
Hill, on which it stood, though at present difficult of ascent, was
rendered still more arduous by the erection of strong ramparts and the
formation of a deep moat: from the summit of this hill a fine view of the
surrounding country is obtained. About a mile west of Mold is a noted
spot of ground, called
Maes Garmon,
Or the Field of Germanus. Soon after the final establishment of
Christianity in this part of the Principality, about 448, a severe
conflict took place here, between the combined forces of the pagan Saxons
and Picts, and the native converts, of whom thousands had been just
previously baptized. The latter calmly awaited the approach of the enemy
at this place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and Lupus, the
former of whom, having given his troops orders to repeat after him the
word “alleluiah,” led them on to battle.
This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, struck such terror into
the hearts of the pagans, that they fled on all sides; numbers perished
by the swords of their pursuers; and many, attempting to escape, were
drowned in the adjacent river. This celebrated victory, which took place
in Easter week, has been distinguished by historians with the appellation
of “Victoria Alleluiatica;” and the memorial of it has been perpetuated
by the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the spot where St. Germanus is
said to have stood. Modern researches of antiquarians have raised a
doubt as to the locality of this remarkable event. One mile and a half
on the Chester road runs
Offa’s Dyke,
The ancient and famous boundary between Wales and England, extending from
Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to Monmouth. When the Romans made their
inroads into this island, many of the Britons retreated into Wales, at
which time the rivers Dee and Severn divided the two countries: all to
the east was England, and to the west Wales. This division continued
about 600 years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of
his neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army. He drove the conquered
westward among the mountains, seized their property, formed this vast
dyke, and ordained that neither Englishman nor Welshman should pass the
new boundary.
The Tower.
On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, and about a mile from
Mold, is an old structure, which presents a singular specimen of the
style of domestic architecture during the ages of lawless violence in
which it was erected: it consists of an ancient square tower of three
stories, and appears to have been designed as a place of fortified
habitation. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it
was inhabited by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who was constantly
engaged in feuds with the citizens of Chester. In 1495, a considerable
number of the latter came to Mold fair, and a fray arising between the
hostile parties, great slaughter ensued on both sides; but Reinallt, who
obtained the victory, took the mayor of Chester prisoner, and conveyed
him to his mansion, where he hung him on the staple in his great hall.
To avenge this affront, a party of two hundred men was dispatched from
Chester to seize Reinallt, who, retiring from his house into the
adjoining woods, permitted a few of them to enter the building, when,
rushing from his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, setting fire
to the house, destroyed them in the flames: he then attacked the
remainder, whom he pursued with great slaughter: and such as escaped the
sword, were drowned in attempting to regain their homes. The staple on
which the mayor was hung still remains fixed on the ceiling of the lower
apartment.
Moel Fammau.
On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles west of Mold, is
this conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the level of the sea.
Upon the summit of this mountain, the gentlemen of the country entered
into a subscription, and erected in 1810, a jubilee column, to
commemorate the fiftieth year of the reign of George III. The first
stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, on the 25th October, in the presence of
more than 3000 people. The monument was executed from designs by T.
Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone building of
pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 60 feet diameter at the
base. A square block of stone in the centse marks the division of the
two counties, Denbighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes. From this
elevated spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire; the
Wrekin, in Shropshire; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales; and Black Comb,
in Cumberland. The view is exceedingly grand and extensive, combining
every variety of natural scenery; and as the mountain road has lately
been repaired, and a room for visitors with a shed for horses erected on
the summit, it forms a convenient and interesting spot from which to
contemplate the beauties of Wales. The jubilee column has also been
repaired by public subscription, to which Lord Kenyon was a liberal
contributor.
Kilkain.
This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on the bridle road
to Denbigh, is remarkable for the finely-carved roof of its church, which
at the dissolution of monasteries was brought from the abbey of
Basingwerk.
MONA INN,
(_Anglesea_.)
Beaumaris 14
Holyhead 12
Menai Bridge 10
Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent hotel, situate
midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new line of road between those
places. Post chaises are kept here. About nine miles beyond the Mona
Inn the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment
1300 yards in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height. In the
fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, containing
jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which also polishes
beautifully.
MONTGOMERY,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)
Bishop’s Castle 9
London 169
Newtown 9
Welshpool 8
This town, the capital of the county, is romantically situated, partly on
the summit, and partly on the declivity of a hill, rising from the
southern bank of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of a
mountain of loftier elevation.—The town-hall stands in the middle of the
town, the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is
divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord Clive,
the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, for the business
of the quarter sessions. On the left of the road leading to Shrewsbury
is the new gaol, built by the county at an expense of £10,000. In 1841,
the population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants. The Dragon
has the reputation of being the principal inn.
The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by Baldwyn,
lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the Conqueror, and then called
Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of
Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he
fortified anew, built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called
it after his own name. The church is a handsome cruciform structure, and
contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq.,
father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Chirbury.
The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the town, the
approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, the rock upon which
it is built rises almost perpendicularly. A seat belonging to the Earl
of Powys, called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town,
on the road to Bishop’s Castle.
Mynydd, or Cefn Dygoll,
Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national independence of
the Welsh was finally prostrated. After the death of Llywelyn, the
northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army,
and after several victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the
marshes, the hero of the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by
the collected power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested
battle.
NEVYN,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)
Caernarvon 21
Cricaeth 15
London 270
Pwllheli 7
Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of the
county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants. It is only remarkable as
the place where Edward the First, in 1284, celebrated his conquest of
Wales by tournaments and feasts. The coast in the neighbourhood is bold
and rocky, and the surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous
character. The church is a neat building, erected in 1824.
On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from the town,
is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of strong entrenchments, to
have been a port frequented by the Romans. It forms a natural bay, in
which there is safe anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest
tonnage.
NEWBOROUGH,
(_Anglesea_.)
Aberfraw 7
Menai Bridge 12
Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 inhabitants,
deriving its name from having been constituted a free borough by Edward
the First. It was originally a place of great importance, being the
capital of the island, and was for many years the residence of the
princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on
the opposite side of the Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their
seat of government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might
require. At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward the First,
this place appears to have been the chief town in the island, as well as
the seat of justice for the whole comot of Menai. In the reign of Henry
the Seventh, upon a representation to that sovereign, the assizes and
other county business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough. Having,
however, declined from its former importance, in the third year of Edward
the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county business were
removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been continued ever since.
NEWMARKET,
(_Flintshire_.)
Caerwys 5
Holywell 7
St. Asaph 6
Rhuddlan 4
This village is situated about three miles to the right hand of the great
Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of the estuary of the
Dee.
The church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a
spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees. On the south of
the church, and not far distant from the principal entrance, stands a
tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper part finely sculptured in
high relief. Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and
opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an
annual endowment of £8, a charity which he extended to every county in
North Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by
an annual salary of £15.
The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that from the
numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible in the
neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the
Romans under Agricola, seems to be well founded.
Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on the summit of which is
a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed of lime-stones. It covers
nearly an acre of ground, and is in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most
probable conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of some
distinguished warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times
served as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which
purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view both of
the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey.
A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, is
Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the station of
the archers in the engagement: close to this is Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the
Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly appropriate to the site of a battle;
a little below again is Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe.
Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half distance from the
former place, there is on an elevation a singular monument, denominated
Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut
some very curious figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and
two feet four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient
obelisk.
A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in the
presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry Parry, vicar
of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of bones and boars’
tusks, the latter in good preservation. An urn, nearly two feet in
height, was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen
employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces.
NEWTOWN,
(_Montgomeryshire_.)
Bishop’s Castle 16
Llanidloes 14
Llanfyllyn 19
London 179
Machynlleth 30
Welshpool 14
Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is situated on the
banks of the river Severn, on the road from Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and
contains 3990 inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the Angel.
Very little is known either of the origin or the early history of this
place, which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its
flannel manufacture, has risen into importance. A spacious hall has
recently, been erected, from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market
for the staple commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday.
Many factories have been established, which afford employment to more
than two thousand persons.
A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long Bridge,
was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: it consists of three
arches of more than sixty feet span; the arches and the parapets being of
grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue stone, found in the
neighbourhood. A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the
town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is
called the Short Bridge.
The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient structure. In the
interior are some marble monuments, chiefly to the family of Price, of
Newtown Hall. The environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery,
and a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on
the north and south sides. At the distance of about a mile and a half on
the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful spot, which is
much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of a shelving mass of
rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes with impetuosity,
forming in its descent a fine cascade, which winds at the base through a
richly wooded glen.
Angling Stations.
_Distances from Newtown_. _Miles_.
Bettws 4
Llanmerewig 4
Llanwynog 6
NORTHOP,
(_Flintshire_.)
Chester 11½
Flint 3
Hawarden 4½
Holywell 6
London 194
Mold 3
This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part of the
country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant villas. The Welsh name
is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain,
daughter of the Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the
second bishop of the see, which from him derived its name.
The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands on a small
eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in the front, and
supported by clumsy buttresses. The interior length is 113 feet, and the
breadth 38½ feet. There have been three dedications of Northop church;
the first to St. Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St.
Peter. There are several remarkable monuments in this church.
The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, nearly the whole
extent of which is in cultivation. The population of the parish in 1841
was 3566.
Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of the works
have been extensively carried on for many years; large quantities are
conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s Quay, and there shipped for
Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin. Lead ore is found, though not in great
abundance, in the township of Caer Allwch.
OSWESTRY,
(_Shropshire_.)
Chirk 5
Ellesmere 8
Llanfyllyn 14
Shrewsbury 18
Welshpool 16
Wrexham 14
This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, that it is
frequently visited by travellers, either on commencing or terminating
their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road from Llangollen to
Shrewsbury. The town occupies the declivity of a range of hills, which
skirt it on the western side, and command an extensive view over the
fertile plains of Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted: the old
buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable modern
edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched beyond its ancient
boundaries, is still progressively increasing in extent and importance.
The population of the parish by the last census was 8843.
OVERTON,
(_Flintshire_.)
Ellesmere 5
Wrexham 7
This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the banks of the
Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches,
connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, on the road from Chester to
Shrewsbury. The surrounding scenery is beautifully picturesque. The
village, with its venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly
interesting feature in a charming landscape. In the churchyard are
several fine yew trees. The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow
of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park of
Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an ancient
tumulus. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. R. Price, Esq.
Bryn-y-Pys.
ANGLING STATION.—The Dee up to Llangollen.
PENMAEN MAWR,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)
Aber 4
Bangor 9
Conway 6
Port Penrhyn 8
Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being the last
of the long chain of mountains which cross the country. This gigantic
rock, along which the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a
fine contrast with the adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur. This
place was once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory
affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of its frowning side
for the terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet were loose masses of
rugged stones, impeding his progress; beneath, a hundred fathoms down,
the roaring ocean foaming against the perpendicular base of the mountain;
and over his head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering
aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy steep. The
danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of
the strata, increased with his progress, and, in several difficult parts
of the road, one false step must have inevitably proved fatal.
From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an object of
melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the vicinity: the winter
evenings were often spent in relating the alarming tales of the perils
and disasters attendant on passing Penmaen Mawr. Modern science,
however, has made travelling in this fearful district both safe and
attractive. By order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was
opened in 1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford. And a capacious tunnel
has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, through the
adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to defy every attempt to
pierce its gloomy recesses.
On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of Penmaen,
are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which were capable of
containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are still standing, and a
well that supplied the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished
principally by the _condensed_ vapour of the mountain. This was
considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of
Snowdon. It was deemed impregnable; and here the reduced bands of the
brave Welsh army were posted, pending the negociation betwixt Edward I.
and Llywelyn.
PENMORFA,
(_Caernarvonshire_.)
Beddgelert 7
Pwllheli 11
Pont Aberglaslyn 5½
Tremadoc 1
Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad village,
romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth Mawr, but is so much
out of the way of tourists as to be seldom visited. The church is small,
and dedicated to St. Beuno, having within a small monument to the memory
of Sir John Owen, a general and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken
prisoner at a battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament;
but through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few
months’ imprisonment.
PENMYNYDD,
(_Anglesea_.)
Beaumaris 6
Plas Newydd 5
Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near the great
post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the Menai Bridge. It
is celebrated as being the native place of OWEN TUDOR.
PENTRE VOELAS,
(_Denbighshire_.)
Capel Curig 11
Corwen 15
Denbigh 18
Ffestiniog 14½
Llanrwst 11
Maen-Twrog 17
This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, with a very
comfortable inn. About four miles distant are the Conway waterfalls. A
new road has lately been formed hence to Denbigh, and another to
Ffestiniog.
PLAS NEWYDD,
(_Anglesea_.)
Caernarvon 6
Llanidan 3
Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove on the
Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to druidic
worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, but now
occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Caernarvonshire. It is
beautifully situated on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides
by venerable oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a
fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended from
the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall.
Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of entertaining
his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visit to Ireland in 1821; and
also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his
official duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, her Royal Highness the
Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen)
Victoria, took up their residence for several weeks in the summer of
1822, during the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they
visited and occasionally resided.
Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most complete cromlech
in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the domains abound with most
interesting vestiges of antiquity.
A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage,
in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed
peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is
Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan
Hall, the seat of Lord Boston.
On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road,
about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the
Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble
marquis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary
of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in
the following year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit
of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the
sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic
scenery of the neighbourhood.
PONT-Y-GLYN,
(_Denbighshire_.)
Bala 12
Corwen 6
Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great
Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr. The woody
glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks,
nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a
sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. Beneath
is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense
masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity.
The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge,
where it is seen dashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition
of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque
and elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks,
and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view
thence down the hollow is truly sublime.
PWLLHELI
(_Caernarvonshire_.)
Caernarvon 20
Chester 93
Cricaeth 8
London 250
Nevyn 7
Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port,
the population of which is about 1500. The market is held on Wednesday
and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is
accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The
town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing.
The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of
the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, dedicated to St.
Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834. It
is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large
congregation. Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales
and the National Provincial.
The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower
part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper
part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty
sessions are held. The commerce consists entirely in the importation of
coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the
surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the
cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of the
contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to
parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur
and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of
the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is
truly magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli.
RHUDDLAN,
(_Flintshire_.)
Abergele 5
Flint 16
Holywell 11
London 220
Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants. The town
lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles
from its influx into the sea. The river is here a little extended in
width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the
bridge.
Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of
its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient
castle. Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough,
to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the
purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had
for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this
monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been early taught
that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at
least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated the
statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of
Wales. This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in
the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales;
it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs
previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure
directed.
Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the
Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought
between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which
the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great
slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal
chieftains, being among the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the
sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides;
and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard
to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed
the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for
the plaintive sweetness of its melody.
The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuilt in 1595,
with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one
of the battlements.
At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First
held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the
observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following
inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the
building where King Edward the First held his parliament, A.D. 1283, in
which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its
judicial rights and independence.”