The Cromlech. {140}

This stone is of some thousand tons weight, and many times larger than

the celebrated mass of rock in Barrowdale, called Bowdar Stone. It lies

in a place called Ynys Hettws (Hetty’s Island); and two of its sides

meeting at an angle with the ground, it was once used as the habitation

of an old woman, who in summer resided in the vale to feed and milk her

cows. The enclosures are yet nearly entire, and are sometimes used as a

sheepfold.

Gorphwysfa,

(The Resting Place), the top of the ascent between Llanberis and Capel

Curig, four miles from the former, overlooks the glorious prospects

before noticed. It also commands a view into the mountain pass which

joins Nant Hwynan and the vale of Capel Curig. The vale of Llanberis is

narrow and almost straight, nearly filled with two lakes, connected by a

canal called Bala ’r Ddeulyn (the Junction of the two Lakes), celebrated

(previous to the opening of the copper mines) for the abundance of the

red and golden char. These fish are still caught in the lakes, though

not so plentifully as formerly; the char is taken about the middle of

September.

Angling Stations.

The upper and lower lakes (Bad sport).

Llyn Cwm Dwythog 2 miles from Dolbadarn inn.

Llyn Llydan 5 — on Snowdon.

Glaslyn on the west of ditto.

LLANDEGAI,

(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber 3½

Bangor 2

Conway 10

Port Penrhyn 2

Near to the grand entrance to Penrhyn Park, are the much admired church

and little village of Llandegai, hidden from the immediate view by a high

wall, extending some yards in the front. The parish is more than fifteen

miles in length, from the shore of the Menai straits far into the

mountainous regions of Snowdon, including a wide district, abounding with

almost every species of mineral treasure. The scenery of the

neighbourhood is beautifully picturesque and impressively grand,

comprehending on one hand a vast amphitheatre of mountains, and on the

other a fine view of the Menai Straits.

The church is one of the neatest in the Principality, in the form of a

cross, having a tower in the centre. Its style is Gothic, and it is

supposed to have been erected about the reign of Edward the Third.

Within the church is a mural monument to the memory of John Williams,

lord keeper of the great seal in the reign of James the First, who died

at Gloddaeth, and was interred in this church in 1650. He is represented

in his episcopal dress, kneeling at the altar. There is also an elegant

marble monument erected to the memory of the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn,

executed by Westmacott. On one side it is supported by a female peasant,

deploring the loss of the deceased, and on the other by a quarry-man,

holding an iron bar and a slate knife, earnestly reading the inscription

which commemorates his benefactor. Beneath are smaller figures, the

first representing a boy feeding his goats on the mountains, emblematical

of the state of the country when his lordship commenced his improvements;

the second, two boys working in a slate quarry, emblematical of industry;

the third is, one boy teaching another to read the Bible, emblematical of

religious education; and the fourth, three boys with sickles in a wheat

field, denoting plenty. Lord Penrhyn died in 1806.

The following is a translation of the somewhat curious Latin inscription

on the monumental record of the renowned Archbishop and Lord Chancellor

Williams:—“Sojourner, read, and in these few words, particularly observe

that which you would not expect to find in this obscure chapel. Here

lies buried John Williams, the most renowned of prelates, descended by

his father’s lineage from the Williams’s of Cochwillan, and by his

mother’s from the Griffiths of Penrhyn, whose great parts and eminence in

all kinds of learning raised him first to the deanery of Sarum, and

afterwards advanced him to that of Westminster by the favour of King

James. At one and the same time he was the most intimate favourite of

and privy councillor to that great king, lord keeper of the great seal of

England, and bishop of the see of Lincoln, whom Charles the First

honoured with the archiepiscopal mitre of York. He was thoroughly versed

in all sciences—a treasury of nine languages—the very soul of pure and

undefiled theology—an oracle of political tact—the very acmé and ornament

of wisdom, whether sacred, canonical, civil, or municipal. His

conversation was engagingly sweet—his memory more tenacious than human—a

repository of all species of history—expended in magnificent edifices the

sum of £20,000,—an exemplary pattern of liberality, munificence,

generosity, hospitality, and compassion for the poor. In those

lamentable times which followed, being worn out with the things which he

saw and heard, when, by reason of the fury of the rebels, he could no

longer serve his king nor his country, having lived 68 years, on the 25th

of March, which was his birthday, with strong faith in Christ, and

steadfast allegiance to his king, he most devotedly resigned his soul to

God, dying of a quinsy. It matters little that so small a monument,

placed in this obscure spot, preserves the memory of so great a man,

since years and ages shall never cease to celebrate his virtues. He died

25th March, A.D. 1650.

“Pass on, traveller, it is enough, your curiosity is gratified.”

The ancient family residence, Cochwillan, is within a short distance of

the church, and remains in much the same condition as when, “broken by

the storms of state,” the good prelate here sought his final

resting-place on earth.

LLANDUDNO,

(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Abergele 16

Conway 5

Llandudno old church is situated near the promontory of Ormeshead, which

forms the eastern boundary of the entrance into Beaumaris Bar. It has

the appearance from the sea of a dilapidated cow-house. A new church has

been erected on the side of the promontory, where the inhabitants

principally reside. There are here several very valuable and extensive

copper mines. The cliffs towards the sea are lofty and abrupt; and the

whole scene wild and romantic in the extreme.

On the centre of the mountain is a rocking stone, called Crŷd Tudno (or

the Cradle of St. Tudno); and on an eminence are the ruins of a large

square building, of which the walls, apparently constructed without

mortar, lie scattered in various directions. On the highest part of the

promontory, and near the Great Ormeshead, a signal staff has been

erected, communicating with Llysfaen on the east, and Puffin Island on

the west, forming thereby a post of communication between Liverpool and

Holyhead. These hills and the neighbouring woods of Gloddaeth abound in

rare and curious plants. The rock just above the village of Llandudno is

the only habitation in Britain of the _cotoneaster vulgaris_, which grows

here abundantly.

The parish of Llandudno contains six hundred and sixty-two inhabitants.

LLANEDWEN,

(_Anglesea_.)

Llanidan 2

Moel-y-Don 3

Llanedwen is a small village where Henry Rowlands, the learned author of

Mona Antiqua Restaurata, was interred. He was instituted to the vicarage

of this place in October, 1696, and died 1723. He lies under a black

slab of Anglesea marble, in the south part of the church.

LLANELIAN,

(_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch 8

Beaumaris 20

This is a small village on the eastern coast of Anglesea. The church,

dedicated to St. Elian, is supposed to have been founded by the patron

saint about 540; and adjoining to it is a small chapel, of very ancient

foundation, measuring in its interior twelve feet by fifteen, called

Myfyr, _the confessional_. A curious closet of wood, of an hexagonal

form, called St. Elian’s closet, is yet left in the east wall, and is

supposed to have served both the office of a communion table, and as a

chest to contain the vestments and other utensils belonging to the

chapel. Near to the door is placed Cyff Elian (Elian’s Chest), or

poor-box. Superstitions devotees out of health send their offerings to

the saint, which are put through a hole into the box.

At Point Lynas, near this place, a light-house of considerable dimensions

has been erected.

LLANERCH-Y-MEDD,

(_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch 6

Beaumaris 17

Holyhead 16

London 263

Llanerch-y-medd is a considerable town, with a market on Wednesday,

deriving its importance chiefly from its proximity to the Parys mountain,

on the northern side of Anglesea. Here are the leading fairs for

Anglesea oxen, and the south country dealers attend to make their

purchases for the Kent and Sussex pastures. An establishment has been

opened in this town for the manufacture of snuff, in imitation of the

celebrated Lundy Foot, of Dublin. There is a small but comfortable inn

here.

Within one mile of the town is Llwydiaeth, the hospitable mansion of W.

P. Lloyd, Esq. At a small distance is a rocking stone, held in great

sanctity by the bards as a druidical remain.

LLANERVUL,

(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Dolgelley 24

Llanfair 5

Machynlleth 25

Mallwydd 13

Newtown 14

Welshpool 12

This interesting little village is pleasantly situated on the banks of

the river Banwy, and at the lower extremity of a narrow vale of about

seven miles in length. The Cross Foxes Inn affords good accommodation.

The situation of the village, being on the turnpike-road from Shrewsbury

to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, causes it to be much enlivened in the

summer season, by coaches passing through, conveying travellers to the

bathing places at Aberystwyth and Barmouth.

The parish, extending nearly eight miles in length, and about three in

breadth, is divided into six townships, comprising a population of about

1000, chiefly employed in agriculture. The lands are but partially

enclosed and cultivated, the hilly parts affording only pasturage for

sheep, young cattle, and Welsh ponies, during the summer; but the soil of

the lower grounds is tolerably fertile, and when properly cultivated, is

capable of producing grain of every kind. Within this parish, on the

mountains, are several lakes of considerable extent and depth, and some

of them containing great abundance of fish, chiefly trout and eels.

The most ancient manor-house in these parts is Neuadd-wen (the

White-hall). This was formerly the seat of Meredydd ab Cynan, brother of

Gruffydd ab Cynan, Prince of North Wales, who served the Princes of

Powys, and was termed Lord of Rhiw-hiriaeth, Coedtalog, and Neuadd-wen.

Some genealogists say that he was Meredydd ab Cynvyn, and brother to

Bleddyn ab Cynvyn, Prince of Powys. The estate of Neuadd-wen was divided

and subdivided according to the custom of gavel kind, until the time of

Evan ab Owen, the last of the line of Meredydd ab Cynan, whose two

daughters were married, the one to the Llwydiarth family, the other to

that of Newtown Hall. In a heap of rubbish, at the back of the present

farm-house of Nauadd-wen, were found pieces of free stone, with

mouldings, which appeared to be the ruins of an arched window. The

building seemed to have been Gothic, according to the taste of the

eleventh and twelfth century. It is probable that the name of Neuadd-wen

was given to the new structure, for there is a tradition that its former

appellation was Llŷs Wgan, which is corrobarated by the fact, that a

rivulet near the house is still called Nant Wgan.

Adjoining Neuadd-wen lies the capital farm of Llysyn, formerly the estate

of Ieuan ab Bedo Gwyn, descendant of a cadet branch of the family of

Neuadd-wen. This estate was afterwards purchased by the Herberts, and

made the residence of some branch of that family, ancestors to the

present Earl of Powys. The name of Llysyn seems to be a contraction of

Llŷs-dyddyn (the Court-farm). Probably, the Princes of Powys had here a

court of judicature.

This parish contains the vestiges of several tumuli, forts, and ramparts,

such as those at Moel-y-ddolwen, Gardden, Rhôs-y-gallt, &c.; but the most

singular vestige of antiquity here is that of the Roman causeway, called

Sarn-Sws, or Sarn-Swsen, which leads from the old Roman station of

Caer-Sws, near Llanidloes, to Chester; or as some will have it, from

Caerllëon-ar-Wysg, in Monmouthshire, to Caerllëon-ar-Ddyfr-dwy, or

Chester on the Dee. This road enters the parish of Llanervul on the

hills of the Drum, and thence descends through the farms of Cae’r-Bacha,

Cynniwyll, &c., and crosses the river Banwy below Neuadd-wen, and then up

Craig-y-gô, whence it proceeds through the parish of Llanvihangel; and

Dr. Worthington says it might be traced through the parish of

Llanrhaiadr-yn-Mochnant, at Street-Vawr, near Coed-y-Clawdd, over

Rhôs-y-brithdir, to Pen-y-Street, and thence to Llamiwrch, &c. In some

places the pavement may be found a little below the surface.

The church of Llanervul is dedicated to Urval Santes, a female saint,

whose pedigree is not known: some suppose that the ancient tomb-stone in

the church-yard was erected to her memory, but the inscription by no

means corroborates that supposition.

Mrs. Priscilla Forster, a descendant of the family of the Herberts of

Llysyn, bequeathed £300 for the instruction of the poor children of the

parish: this sum was invested in the purchase of a farm near the village,

now considered worth £35 per annum, which is appropriated agreeably to

the intentions of the benevolent testatrix.

LLANFAIR, {146}

(_Anglesea_.)

Llangefni 5

Pentraeth 2½

This village is celebrated as the birth-place of Goronwy Owen, of whom a

Welsh author has said that “he was the greatest genius either of this

age, or that ever appeared in our country; and perhaps few other

countries can boast his equal for universal knowledge.” He was born in

1722, had the rudiments of his education at the grammar-school of Bangor,

whence, in 1741, he went to Oxford. Four years afterwards he received

holy orders at Bangor, and became curate to the Bishop at Llanfair. He

successively held the curacy of Donnington, near Shrewsbury, and Walton,

near Liverpool: but having only a slender income, and being disappointed

in his hopes of preferment, he emigrated to America. The taste, manners,

and morals of the Virginians were offensive and disgusting to this son of

sorrow. He lost by death his wife and children, all but one boy; and he

himself, while but comparatively a young man, sank to the grave under the

pressure of accumulated misfortunes. To a perfect acquaintance with the

Latin and Greek languages, he added a knowledge of the Hebrew, Chaldee,

Arabic, and Syriac. His Latin odes have been universally admired for the

purity of their language, and for the elegance of their expression. As a

Welsh poet he ranks superior to all since the days of Dafydd ap Gwilym.

Those parts of his works which have been printed are considered as

perfect models of Welsh poetry. It has been lately stated that a

grandson of the bard is now living in the United States, and is a member

of the congress.

LLANFAIR,

(_Montgomeryshire_.)

Can-Office 7

Dinas-Mowddwy 18

Mallwyd 16

Newtown 10

Oswestry 20

Welshpool 8

Llanfair, or Llanfair-Caer-Einion, a small market town pleasantly

situated on the declivity of an eminence, rising from the south bank of

the small river Banwy, which falls into the Vyrnwy, and on the turnpike

road leading from Welshpool to Machynlleth and Dolgelley, containing 2687

inhabitants. It has a church dedicated to St. Mary, an ancient

structure; and five places of worship for dissenters. The Vyrnwy abounds

with such a quantity and variety of fish, as justly to entitle it to the

name of _amnis piscosus_. The inhabitants of this place are said to

excel in the practice of spearing fish.

Angling Stations.

Myfod (Meivod) 5 miles on the Vyrnwy.

Llangynyw 2½ „

Llanervul 5 „

LLANFYLLYN,

(_Montgomeryshire_.)

London 178

Mallwyd 20

Oswestry 14

Shrewsbury 25

Welshpool 12

A market town of some note, situate in a fertile valley on the banks of

the river Cain, surrounded by lofty hills. The market is held on

Thursday. Population, 1955.

In the centre of the town stands the church, which was erected when the

excellent Dr. Beveridge was bishop of the diocese; it is a neat brick

building, dedicated to St. Myllyn. The peal of bells surpasses any in

the county. Here are three endowed schools; and a good town hall was

built in 1775.

Bôd Fach, near this town, the seat of Lord Mostyn, was once the residence

of his paternal ancestors, the Kyffins. The markets and fairs of

Llanfyllyn are well attended, particularly for the purchase of Welsh

merlins, which are brought here for sale in great numbers.

LLANGEFNI,

(_Anglesea_.)

Beaumaris 12

Llanerch-y-Medd 7

Menai Bridge 7

Mona Inn 3

This is a small but neat market town centrally situated in the island.

The markets and fairs are of considerable importance. It is one of the

contributory boroughs; the present M.P. being Col. Paget. There is a

neat church under the hill, and the town is romantically situated. The

principal inn is Pen-y-bont.

Tregarnedd, now only a farm-house, but once the residence of Ednyfed

Vychan, an able chieftain to Llywelyn the Great, is in this parish.

About three miles distant on the Llanerch-y-medd road is Tregaian, the

residence of Vice-Admiral Lloyd. Not far off is Maen Rhos Rhyfel, where

Owen Gwynedd obtained a signal victory over an invading army of Erse,

Manksmen, and Normans. The population of Llangefni is 1753.

[Picture: Llangollen bridge]

LLANGOLLEN,

(_Denbighshire_.)

Chester 23

Chirk 7

Corwen 10

London 183

Oswestry 12

Ruabon 6

Ruthin 15

Wrexham 12

The name of this place is derived from the dedication of its church to an

ancient British saint named Collen, whose lineage runs thus, in names

almost unpronounceable by Saxon tongues—St. Collen ap Gwynnawg ap Clydawg

ap Cowrda ap Caredog Freichfras ap Llyr Merim ap Einion Yrth ap Cunededd

ap Wledig. The town, which is beautifully situated in a deep narrow

valley, enclosed by lofty mountains, and watered by the noble stream of

the Dee, appears anciently to have been protected by the neighbouring

fortress of Castell Dinas Bran, situated on the summit of a vast conical

hill in its neighbourhood. The houses are in general old or rather mean

in appearance, though occasionally interspersed with some modern handsome

dwellings; and there is excellent accommodation for the numerous visitors

who frequent the neighbourhood during the summer season. The pure air

and mild temperature cause a number of families to adopt this locality as

a permanent retreat. The Hand, the King’s Head and Royal Hotel, are the

two principal inns. Population, 1500.

Here is a stone bridge over the Dee, consisting of four pointed arches,

erected in the year 1345, by John Trevor, Bishop of St. Asaph, and which

was anciently regarded as one of the wonders of North Wales. The scenery

of the neighbourhood is pre-eminent for its grandeur and sublimity, and

for its picturesque and romantic beauty.

The church is an ancient structure, with small pretensions to

architectural beauty, except some fine carvings on the roof and other

parts of the interior. The view from the churchyard is remarkably

pretty, embracing the bridge, the weir, and Crow Castle. The talented

and self taught clerk, Mr. Jones, may be consulted by writers with

profit, as a person of considerable attainments and general information.

The church services are alternately in the Welsh and English language.

The market is held on Saturday, and is well supplied with butcher’s meat,

but very little corn is sold. By the late act for amending the

representation, Llangollen has been made a polling-place in the election

of knights for the shire.

Llangollen Vale,

a district long celebrated in prose and verse for its varied beauties, is

bounded on each side by lofty mountains of imposing grandeur. It is

certainly a charming and romantic spot; and though not so grandly

impressive, or so surpassingly beautiful as some of the other Welsh

valleys, its lovely features become more attractive on a familiar

acquaintance. A remarkable range of lime-stone hills, called the

Eglwyseg Rocks, adds a singular variety to the landscape. It is almost

needless to observe that “Llangollen, that sweetest of vales,” is the

scene of the home of “Jenny Jones,” whose charms are sung in Charles

Matthews’ popular ballad.—In this vale, and within a quarter of a mile

from the town, stands

Plas Newydd,

the famed retreat of Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Ponsonby, better known,

probably, as _the two recluses_ of Llangollen Vale. These two females,

delighted with the scenery around Llangollen, when it was little known to

the rest of the world, sought here, about the year 1778, a philosophical

retirement from the frivolities of fashionable life, and selected and

improved a dwelling that commands a fine mountain prospect, which

obtained the name of Plâs Newydd. This elegant little cottage is

situated on a small knoll, and surrounded by very tasteful grounds.

The peculiar style in which these ladies decorated their retreat has been

much discussed. A palisade, ornamented with antique and grotesque

figures carved in oak, enclosed the front; and the doors and windows were

decorated with carving of the same material. The rooms were tastefully

adorned with drawings. A carriage drive, open to strangers, crosses the

lawn immediately in front of the cottage. Lady Eleanor Butler died June

2, 1829, at the advanced age of 90, and Miss Ponsonby, Dec. 9, 1831, aged

76: both were interred in the churchyard of Llangollen. To their memory

is erected a monument of unique and elegant structure. It has three

sides, on each of which there is an appropriate epitaph; one for Lady

Eleanor Butler, another for Miss Ponsonby, and the other for their

youthful servant, Mary Carrol, who had accompanied them from Ireland, the

country of their birth, to this delightful retirement.

The whole property was consigned to the hammer in 1832, and was purchased

by two other maiden ladies, viz. Miss Lolly and Miss Andrew, who seemed

inclined to emulate the retirement of its former possessors.

There are many other genteel villas and country residences, within a

convenient distance of the town, deserving of notice.

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