The Cathedral

stands on a low piece of ground near the centre of the town, and

externally has but a humble appearance. It was founded about 525, by

Daniel, son of Dinothus, abbot of Bangor Is-y-coed, in Flintshire, under

the auspices of Maelgwm Gwynedd, king of Wales, founder of Penmon, patron

of Taliesin, and the most liberal prince of his time, though much abused

by Gildas, who calls him Insularum Draco, because he resisted the

innovations which Pope Gregory wished to introduce into the British

church by means of Augustine the monk, and which gave rise to the

denunciatory ode of Taliesin—

“Gwa ’r offeiriaid mud.”

The mother church suffered greatly at different periods during the civil

commotion. It was destroyed in 1071, but soon afterwards rebuilt; and in

1212, when King John invaded the country, having passed Conway, he halted

at Aber, and sent part of his army to burn Bangor. The city was

destroyed, and Robert of Shrewsbury, then bishop of that see, carried

prisoner to the English camp. He was afterwards ransomed for two hundred

hawks. The prelate was, however, suffered to remain here, although

incapable of performing his duty effectively, on account of his ignorance

of the language of the people. At his death, in accordance with his own

request, he was interred in the market-place at Shrewsbury. He was the

original compiler of the wonderful legend of St. Winifrede, afterwards

enlarged by Bishop Fleetwood. In the year 1402, the sacred edifice was

again reduced to ruin by the rage of Owen Glyndwr (who was infuriated by

his wrongs and sufferings), and lay in ruins ninety years, when the choir

was restored by Bishop Deane or Deny. The body and tower now existing

were built by Bishop Skeffington in 1532.

Some considerable improvements were completed in the cathedral in 1827,

by the outlay of £2000 from the tithes of Llanddinam, in Montgomeryshire,

appropriated by an act of James the Second, 1685, for the repairs of

Bangor cathedral, and £2000 collected in different parts of the united

kingdom, by the praiseworthy and indefatigable exertions of the Rev. J.

H. Cotton, LL.B., then precentor and senior vicar, but now dean, the

whole of which has been expended in the most advantageous manner, under

his superintendence, and will remain a lasting monument of his zeal and

perseverance. Some years ago, the citizens of Bangor originated a

subscription to this estimable dignitary, in acknowledgment of the many

good services he had rendered to the city and neighbourhood. The worthy

dean, with his characteristic regard for the fabrics as well as the

doctrines of the church, devoted the sum to the ornamenting the cathedral

with a splendid painted window,—a lasting memorial of the respect and

veneration in which he is held, and of his praiseworthy

disinterestedness.

The bishopric owes the chief of its revenues and immunities to Anian,

bishop of the diocese in the reign of Edward the First, who, being in

high favour with that monarch, and having had the honour of christening

the young prince, born at Caernarvon, afterwards Edward the Second, had,

as a compensation for the temporalities confiscated in the reign of Henry

the Third, various manors, ferries, and grants from the revenues of the

Principality, allotted to the see.

Here was anciently a parish church, built in 975, by king Edgar, situated

about 400 yards north-east of the cathedral, and called Llanvair Edward

Vrenin. Bishop Skeffington, in Henry the Eighth’s time, caused it to be

taken down, and repaired the present church with the materials. Here,

likewise, near the sea shore, Tudor ab Gronwy, of Penmynydd and Tre’r

Castell, in Anglesea, founded a house of Black Friars, and was interred

there in 1311. In an old monody to this individual are the following

lines:—

For Tudor dead, the tears incessant flow,

And Bangor suffers in the general woe.

The free school was founded in 1557, by Dr. Jeffrey Glynn, upon the site

of this building. It has long enjoyed reputation as a training seminary

for Oxford, Cambridge, and Trinity College, Dublin. The environs are

well cultivated and picturesque, and are interspersed with handsome

residences, amongst which is that of the bishop’s palace.

On the summit of a steep rock, opposite Friars’ School, are to be traced

the remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been built by Hugh

Lupus, Earl of Chester, in the reign of Henry the Second. Several pieces

of scoria have been found on the spot, which leave no doubt that arrows

have been manufactured there at some very distant period. On the extreme

height of the opposite hill, at the back of Friars’ School, are the

remains of a British encampment, on an extensive scale, of more ancient

date than the preceding. These interesting objects will be found, on

investigation, well worthy the notice of the antiquary. It is

conjectured, that the British encampment alluded to, communicated, to the

southward, with Dinas Dinorwic, near Llandeiniolen, as that renowned

British station is distinctly seen from this spot; and also with another

to the east, called Braich-y-Ddinas, situate on the summit of Penmaen

Mawr.

An elegant Roman Catholic chapel has recently been erected in the suburbs

of the city, on the Caernarvon road.

Pleasant excursions may be made from Bangor to Conway, Caernarvon,

Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plâs Newydd, Aber, Port Penrhyn, Priestholm or Puffin

Island, Penrhyn Castle, the Llandegai slate quarries, and Snowdon. In

fact, the locality abounds with objects of natural beauty and historical

interest.

Great Suspension Bridge.

Within about two miles from Bangor, near the spot where the old ferry

was, stands that stupendous monument of human skill, the MENAI BRIDGE.

The erection of this bridge was for several years in contemplation before

it was finally determined upon. In 1810 and 1811, several plans were

submitted to a committee of the House of Commons, and particularly one in

the latter year, by Mr. Telford, proposing a bridge of cast iron, the

expense of which was estimated at £127,000; but the difficulty of fixing

a proper centring, owing to the rocky bottom of the channel, and the

depth and rapidity of the tide-way, caused this project to be abandoned.

In 1818, a new plan was presented by the same engineer, for a bridge on

the suspension principle. In developing this plan, Mr. Telford remarks,

“The iron hanging bridge over the Menai to consist of one opening of 560

feet between the points of suspension; in addition to which there are to

be seven arches, four on the coast of Anglesea, and three on that of

Caernarvonshire, each 60 feet in the span, making the total length of the

bridge 910 feet; the height above the level of high water line to be 100

feet. The road-way will embrace two carriage ways, each twelve feet in

breadth, with a foot-path of four feet between them. The whole is to be

suspended from four lines of strong iron cables, by perpendicular iron

rods placed five feet apart, and these rods will support the road-way

framing. The suspending power is calculated at 2016 tons, and the weight

to be suspended, exclusive of the cables, is 343 tons, leaving a

disposable power of 1674 tons.

“The four sides of the road-ways will be made of framed iron work, firmly

bound together for seven feet in height, and there will be a similar work

for five feet in depth below the cables. The weight of the whole bridge

between the points of suspension will be 489 tons. The abutments will

consist of the masonry, comprising the extreme stone-work, the two piers,

and the seven arches before mentioned: each of the two piers will be 60

feet by 40½ wide at high water mark, having a foundation of rock. Upon

the summit of the two main piers, will be erected a frame of cast-iron

work, of a pyramidal form, for the purpose of raising the cables from

which the bridge is to be suspended.” The probable cost of erecting this

structure Mr. Telford estimated at £60,000, or, allowing for any

unforeseen charges, at most £70,000, about one-fourth of the calculated

expense of the cast-iron bridge on the old plan.

The following particulars we extract from Dr. Pring’s Narrative of the

Grand Menai Suspension Bridge, published immediately on its completion.

“The first stone of this national bridge was laid without any ceremony on

the 10th August, 1820, by Mr. Provis, resident engineer. On the 26th

April, 1825, the first chain of this stupendous work was thrown over the

straits of Menai, in the presence of an immense concourse of people. At

half-past two o’clock, it then being about half flood tide, the raft

prepared for the occasion, stationed on the Caernarvonshire side, near

Treborth mill, which supported the part of the chain intended to be drawn

over, began to move gradually from its moorings, towed by four boats,

with the assistance of the tide, to the centre of the river, between the

two grand piers. When the raft was adjusted, and brought to its ultimate

situation, it was made fast to several buoys, anchored in the channel for

that purpose. A part of the chain, pending from the apex of the

suspending pier on the Caernarvonshire side down nearly to high-water

mark, was then made fast by a bolt, to the part of the chain laying on

the raft; which operation was completed in ten minutes.

“The next process was the fastening of the other extremity of the chain

on the raft to two blocks of immense size and power, for the purpose of

hoisting it up to its intended station, the apex of the suspension pier

on the Anglesea side. When the blocks were made secure to the chain

(comprising 25 tons weight of iron), two capstans, and also, two

preventive capstans, commenced working, each capstan being propelled by

thirty-two men. To preserve an equal tenison in the rotatory evolutions

of the two principal capstans, two fifers played several enlivening

tunes, to keep the men regular in their steps, for which purpose they had

been previously trained. At this critical and interesting juncture, the

attention of every one present seemed rivetted to the novel spectacle:

the chain rose majestically, and the gratifying sight was

enthusiastically enjoyed by all present in ‘breathless silence!’ At ten

minutes before five o’clock, the final bolt was fixed, which completed

the whole line of chain, and the happy event was hailed by the hearty

acclamations of the spectators. Not the least accident, delay, or

failure, occurred in any department during the whole of the operation.

From the moving of the raft to the uniting of the chain, only two hours

and twenty-five minutes transpired. Upon the completion of the chain,

three of the workmen passed along its upper surface, which forms a

curvature of 590 feet; the versed sine of the arch is 43 feet. The

sixteenth chain, completing the whole line of suspension, was curried

over on the 9th of July following.

“The general opening of the bridge took place on Monday, January 30th,

1826. The royal London and Holyhead mail coach, carrying the London

mail-bag for Dublin, passed over at one o’clock, A.M. and the first

carriage that passed was that of Augustus Elliott Fuller, Esq., one of

the commissioners, drawn by four beautiful greys; the first stage coach

was the Pilot, a Bangor and Caernarvon day coach; the first London stage

coach was the Oxonian. These were followed by the carriage of Sir David

Erskine, Bart., late proprietor of the ferry, drawn by four elegant

greys, decorated with ribbons, and by several gentlemen’s carriages,

landaus, gigs, cars, &c. and a long train of horsemen. Numerous flags

were flying; and cannons, stationed on each side of the bridge, were

discharged at intervals during the day.

“The dimensions of the bridge are as follows:—The extreme length of the

chain, from the fastenings in the rock, is about 1715 feet; the height of

the road-way from high water line, is 100 feet; each of the seven small

piers from high water line to the spring of the arches, is 65 feet; the

span of each arch is 52½ feet. Each of the suspending piers is 53 feet

above the road; the roads on the bridge consist of two carriage-ways of

12 feet each, with a foot-path of four feet in the centre; the length of

the suspended part of the road from pier to pier is 553 feet; the

carriage-road passes through two arches in the suspending piers, of the

width of 9 feet by 15 feet in height to the spring of the arches. To

counteract the contraction and expansion of the iron from the effects of

the change of the atmosphere, a set of rollers are placed under cast-iron

saddles on the top of the suspending piers where the chains rest; the

vertical rods an inch square, suspended from the chains, support the

sleepers for the flooring of the road-way, the rods being placed 5 feet

from each other. The chains, sixteen in number, consist of five bars

each; length of the bars 10 feet, width 3 inches by 1 inch, with six

connecting lengths at each joint, 1 foot 4 inches by 8 inches, and 1 inch

thick, secured by two bolts at each joint, each bolt weighing about 50

pounds; and the total number of the bars in the cross-section of the

chain is 80. The total weight of iron-work is 4,373,281 pounds.”

The pen and pencil of genius have frequently been employed to delineate

the Menai Bridge, and whatever difference of taste may have prevailed in

determining the character of the various sketches, all writers have been

unanimous in their admiration of the intellect which could devise, and

the skill which could erect this magnificent and astonishing structure.

The approach by water has been thus described:—“When, on entering the

straits, the bridge is first seen suspended as it were in mid air, and

confining the view of the fertile and richly wooded shores, it seems more

like a light ornament than a massy bridge, and shews little of the

strength and solidity which it really possesses. But as we approached it

nearer, whilst it still retained its light and elegant appearance, the

stupendous size and immensity of the work struck us with awe; and when we

saw that a brig, with every stick standing, had just passed under it—that

a coach going over it appeared not larger than a child’s toy—and that

foot passengers upon it looked like pigmies, the vastness of its

proportions was by contrast fully apparent.”

Another tourist gives the subjoined outline, while surveying the

attractive object on the spot:—“Having landed by means of boats on the

Anglesea side, we proceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new

era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and is a

renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again. Our party

walked over the bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired

at every step;—the effect of a passing carriage; the vibration caused

even by a hand applied to the suspending rods; the depth to the level of

the water; the fine view of the straits in both directions; the lofty

pillar erected in honour of the Marquis of Anglesea; the diminutive

appearance of persons on the shore; the excellence and strength of the

workmanship; the beauty of the arches over the road through the

suspension piers, and the echo in them; all conspired to delight and to

detain us. Many of our party then went down the steep bank to the foot

of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of

the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with

its proportions on _terra firma_, a better idea can be formed of its

real, and indeed wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the

spot careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contemplating.”

From the Suspension Bridge to Beaumaris, the road is exquisitely

beautiful: it follows the line of the winding and indented shore of the

Menai: now commanding an extensive view of the noble bay, and its lofty

encircling mountains—now entering the woods of Baron Hill, scarcely

protected from the precipice, the base of which is washed by the waves,

which are heard chafing against the rock below—again it emerges from the

woods, and the whole glorious panorama bursts on the sight: the beautiful

town of Beaumaris lying at your feet, whilst the Ormeshead, Penmaen Mawr,

the Nant Francon mountains, and the more distant range of Snowdonia, with

Penrhyn Castle and Bangor, terminating with nature’s great rival, the

Bridge, form a prospect of remarkable beauty and sublimity.

The Menai Straits, which separate Anglesea from the main land, although

bearing the appearance of a river, are formed by an arm of the sea; the

navigation of which is peculiarly dangerous at particular times of the

tide, and in stormy weather. At each extremity, during the flood, it has

a double current, from the concussion of which, termed Pwll Ceris, it is

perilous to encounter it; and so tremendous are the storms with which the

straits are occasionally disturbed, that before the erection of the Menai

Bridge, a tempestuous day has been sufficient to suspend the intercourse

of England with Ireland, the high road to which, _via_ Holyhead, lies

through Anglesea. Within the range of the coast, a distance of about

fifteen miles, there are six ferries; the first of which, to the south,

is Aber-Menai, nearly opposite Caernarvon, and the sixth, and widest at

high water, is between the village of Aber and Beaumaris.

Nicholson, in his Cambrian Guide, says, “There appears but little doubt

of Anglesea having been once connected with the main land, as evident

traces of an isthmus are discernible near Porthaethwy ferry; where a

dangerous line of rocks nearly crosses the channel, and causes such

eddies at the first flowing of the tide, that the contending currents of

the Menai seem here to struggle for superiority. This isthmus once

destroyed, and a channel formed, it has been the work of ages, by the

force of spring tides and storms, gradually to deepen and enlarge the

opening.” In support of this hypothesis, the author of Beaumaris Bay

quotes the following historical facts:—“In the year 61, the Roman

infantry, under Suetonius, crossed the Menai on a bridge of boats, to

Pant-yr-Ysgraffiau (the inlet of the skiffs) under Porthamael, while the

cavalry forded it below Llanidan. Edward the First also crossed the

strait in the same manner at Moel-y-don, but suffered severely from an

unfortunate attack, on the return of the tide; several of his leading

warriors now lying in the chapel of the Friary, near Beaumaris.”

Railway Bridge across the Menai.

In the original prospectus for the construction of the Chester and

Holyhead railway, it was proposed to carry the line across the suspension

bridge which has just been described; the engines to be detached from the

trains at each end of the bridge, and the carriages to be conveyed over

by horses. The government very properly objected to an arrangement which

would have been in all respects a great public inconvenience. It was

then proposed to cross the Straits in the vicinity of the Britannia rock,

a little to the southward of the suspension bridge, by a bridge of two

cast-iron arches supported on piers of masonry. This project was opposed

by the trustees of the Caernarvon harbour, as a dangerous interference

with the free navigation of the Straits, which had always been of a

difficult and intricate character. A long and anxious investigation of

this matter ended in a proposal by Mr. Robert Stephenson, the eminent

engineer to the railway company, to construct a mode of transit, which

should be perfectly unobjectionable. In May, 1845, that gentleman

explained to a committee of the House of Commons, to whom the Chester and

Holyhead Railway Bill had been referred, that the engineers sent down by

the Board of Admiralty to Bangor having reported that the proposed

two-arched bridge would be injurious to the navigation, and recommended

one of a much greater width, and of a flat surface, without any arch; he

(Mr. Stephenson) had been under the necessity of preparing himself to

carry out those suggestions. He was apprehensive that owing to the

expansion and contraction of iron, in a position where the ends, as in an

arch, are jammed down on immovable piers of masonry, the fabric of an

iron arch of such great width might not be free from danger; and a

suspension bridge would not be safely available as a railway for

locomotive engines. He had therefore come to the conclusion, that a tube

or tunnel, of wrought iron, large enough for the passage of trains, would

be the most feasible plan, embracing safety for the navigation, and

creating no delay to the transit of the railway carriages over the

straits. The tube would be 900 feet in length, supported at the centre

in a pier of masonry, about 100 feet high, erected on the Britannia rock.

The ends would not be jammed, as in the case of an arch, but left free,

so as to admit of expansion in the metal arising from the change of

temperature. The practicability and safety of this novelty in

engineering science, were attested by several witnesses of competent

skill and ability; and the plan was ultimately sanctioned by Parliament.

The pier of masonry to be erected on the Britannia rock, which lies about

mid-way across the stream, is to have four sides, each of 50 feet width;

the water-way on each side of the pier to be 450 feet wide; the height

and shape of the Menai suspension bridge to be maintained in the

construction of the proposed tunnel, with the same clear headway for the

free passage of vessels navigating the straits. At a meeting of the

Chester and Holyhead Railway Company, in August 1845, the report

presented by the board of management contained the following passages:—

“With reference to the magnitude, as well as the novelty of the work,

your directors deemed it essential that the plan of crossing the

Menai Straits, proposed by Mr. Stephenson, the company’s engineer,

should be subjected to the test of experiments. Those experiments

have been in progress for some time, and are now nearly completed.

The results as at present shewn are extremely satisfactory,

confirming most strongly the soundness of the principle, and giving

the most perfect confidence to your directors, with regard to the

proposed stupendous structure, that its erection will be easy, and

that its security will be complete and lasting. So satisfied is Mr.

Stephenson with the comparative strength, durability, and economy of

this new method of bridge-building, that he purposes adopting it also

for the crossing of the river at Conway.”

In the spring of 1846, contracts for the erection of this novel bridge

over the Menai were entered into; the works are now in progress; and this

singular triumph of engineering skill will afford another extraordinary

instance of the achievements of railway enterprise; and add another to

the many wonders of nature and art, which abound throughout this

attractive district of the Principality.

Penrhyn Castle,

The magnificent seat of the Hon. E. Douglas Pennant, M.P. for

Caernarvonshire, is within an easy walk of Bangor. The present castle is

said to have been built on the site of a palace of Roderic Molwynog,

prince of Wales, who began his reign in 720, and long continued in

possession of the Welsh sovereigns. This ancient demesne has been a

favourite subject of the British muse from the earliest times.

Abode of native chiefs, of bards the theme,

Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream,

And phœnix-like, in rising splendour drest,

Shews on its wide domain a regal crest;

Here Cambria opes her tomes of other days,

And with maternal pride, the page displays—

Dwells on the glorious list, and loves to trace

From Britain’s genuine kings—her noblest race.

The estate came into the family of Pennant, partly by the purchase of the

late Lord Penrhyn’s father (John Pennant, Esq.), and partly by his own

marriage with Anne Susannah, daughter and sole heiress of the

late-General Warburton, of Winnington, in Cheshire. By this matrimonial

compact, the two moieties, which had for some time been divided, became

united: and his lordship having no issue, the immense estates devolved

upon the late George Hay Dawkins Pennant, Esq., whose daughter married

the present respected possessor. The lady with whose hand so wealthy a

dowry was bestowed, died in the year 1842, and in January, 1846, the Hon.

E. D. Pennant married Lady Louisa Fitzroy, the accomplished daughter of

the Duke and Duchess of Grafton. Lord Penrhyn made very considerable

alterations in the mansion; and his immediate successor, whose public

spirit well accorded with that of his lordship, and whose generous

munificence endeared him to the surrounding district, was long engaged in

rebuilding it, in a magnificent style, so as to render it one of the most

complete edifices in the kingdom. It is erected in the boldest style of

castellated architecture, of Mona marble, and displays a magnificent

range of buildings, crowned with lofty towers, of which five are

circular; the keep, and another of the principal towers are square, with

angular turrets. The internal decorations correspond with the grandeur

of the exterior; the mantle-pieces and other ornaments being made of Mona

marble, which admits of a very high polish: the furniture is also

extremely elegant. The situation is most picturesque and imposing, and

commands a glorious, extensive, and diversified prospect of marine and

mountain scenery. There are several lodges forming entrances to the

park, all elegant in their design, and lofty in their elevation; the

principal one, which is near the junction of the London and Chester

roads, being a stately and beautiful specimen of the architecture of the

whole. A grand massive substantial gateway, on a corresponding plan, has

been completed; together with a handsome park wall, thirteen feet high,

and seven miles in circuit.

There is an elegant chapel near the castle, for the accommodation of the

family; and on the beach are handsome and commodious hot and cold baths.

The stables are upon a noble and extensive scale. The building has a

handsome façade, fronted with patent slate, and the pilasters which

divide the stalls, as well as the mangers, are of the same material.

Indeed, this very valuable article appears to be converted, on the

Penrhyn demesne, to every possible use. The park is fenced with narrow

upright slate slabs, cut in imitation of palisadoes, and fixed by pins to

oaken railings, which find their support in posts formed of cubic slate.

In this mansion is still preserved a hirlas, or drinking horn of the

hero, Piers Gruffydd, perhaps the only elegant specimen of that kind of

utensil, elucidatory of ancient manners, at present existing. It is a

large bugle, of an ox’s horn, ornamented with enchased silver, and

suspended by a chain of the same metal, having the initials of his own

name and family engraved at the end. Piers Gruffydd owned Penrhyn estate

in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis

Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost. He

was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada. In the

royal court of Cambria, there were legally three sorts of horns for the

purpose of public or private libations. The first was _y corn ydd yuo y

brenin_, or the one solely appropriated to the king’s use; second, _corn

cyweithas_, by which the domestics of the palace were summoned to duty;

and third, corn _y pencynydd_, committed to the custody of the chief

huntsman. On grand occasions, the domestics of the palace were permitted

to drink out of the sovereign’s horn; and the chamberlain or high

steward, on such occasions, furnished handsome potations of the generous

metheglin. The contents of the horn at these times assumed the name of

the sacred potion, similar to the _wassail_ bowl, or the apostle’s cup,

in use among the Saxons. Ulphus, when he conveyed certain lands to the

church at York, is said to have quaffed off the contents of such a

vessel, drinking a health, _Deo et sancto Petro_ (to God and St. Peter).

On festive days, the imperative custom was to empty the horn at one tip,

and instantly blow it, as a testimony that it had been thoroughly

drained.

The improvements made by the late Lord Penrhyn in this very interesting

parish and its flourishing neighbourhood were most comprehensive and

important. The aspect of the country has, in fact, been thoroughly

changed; and profitable employment found for thousands of the working

population. About forty years ago, this part of the country bore a most

wild, barren, and neglected appearance; but it is now covered with

handsome villas, well-built farm-houses, neat cottages, rich meadows,

well-cultivated fields, and flourishing plantations; bridges have been

built, new roads made, bogs and swampy grounds drained and cultivated,

neat fences raised, and barren rocks covered with woods.

Slate Quarries.

The slate quarries at Cae Braich-y-Cefn (about six from Bangor), in the

vicinity of Nant Francon, the most considerable in Wales, are the

property of the family of Penrhyn Castle. The rock has been opened at

vast expense, and the quarries are worked with great judgment and

enterprise. There are more than 2000 persons continually employed; and

it is computed that about two hundred tons of slates are daily conveyed

down to Port Penrhyn, whence they are exported to various parts of the

kingdom, to Ireland, and to America. These quarries were discovered so

far back as the time of Queen Elizabeth. In 1740 the slates were all of

one size, and very small. But when Lord Penrhyn took the quarries into

his own hands, about 1782, his lordship cleared the rubbish, which had

been accumulating for ages, and opened these quarries in a judicious and

scientific manner. His lordship also constructed an iron railway from

the quarries to Port Penrhyn, a distance of six miles, which is said to

have cost £170,000. The weekly wages now paid to the workmen engaged in

these quarries amount to about £1700.

On the arrival of a visitor, he should, if possible, obtain permission to

accompany one of the overlookers of the works in his round, rather than

trust to the casual guidance of any idler who may be found lurking about

with the intention to profer assistance; as the sole object of the latter

is to procure payment, without giving himself much trouble in pointing

out the wonders of the place. Should he be successful, the intelligent

and communicative spirit of his guide will amply repay the difficulty he

may have experienced in finding him.

He will be conducted to every ledge of the mountain, up an inclined

plane, till he reaches the summit, and will have an opportunity of seeing

the whole process of the slate manufacture. In one place he will

discover the workmen aloft, suspended by ropes against the precipitous

side of the rock, busily employed in splitting down every projecting

shelf of the blue steganium; in another, persons employed in the

laborious occupation of boring for the purpose of filling the orifice

with gunpowder, to rend the rock from the immense mass to which it is

attached; others occupied in removing the rubbish, of which so many

years’ labour has produced a wonderful accumulation; and numbers in

splitting the detached masses, and cutting them into a variety of sizes,

denominated duchesses, countesses, ladies, &c. which names were bestowed

by General Warburton about the year 1765. This process is executed with

astonishing rapidity. Then may be heard the alarum shout, betokening

that a fusee is lighted and will soon explode, warning those employed in

the vicinity to secure themselves from danger; and in a few moments, the

explosion itself rattles through the extensive levels with terrific

grandeur. It cannot be expected that accidents amongst the workmen are

of rare occurrence; on the contrary, they too frequently happen, for

scarce a week passes without some poor fellows meeting with severe bodily

injury; but this is solely attributed to their own negligence of the

proper precaution.

Portions of the mountain are farmed by individuals, who pay a price

consonant with the value or quality of the substratum, and employ workmen

to remove and fit it for exportation; when they receive so much per

thousand, in the same ratio, for their labour. There is a strong spring

of water at the top of the mountain, which is conveyed by a large wooden

pipe to the bottom, and there rendered serviceable in turning an immense

cutting mill. A few hundred yards distant, also, are several mills of

this description, where large pieces of rock are cut into grave-stones,

and into the requisite sizes for roofing houses, and for the use of

schools, &c.

St. Ann’s chapel, near the quarries, was erected and liberally endowed by

the late Lord Penrhyn; and Lady Penrhyn left a sum for an organ, and a

suitable stipend for the organist.—Within a short distance of the slate

quarries is the charming cottage of the late Lady Penrhyn, called

Ogwen Bank.

It is now used by Mr. Pennant’s family as an occasional resort on paying

a morning visit to the quarries, or other objects of curiosity in the

neighbourhood. The style is florid Gothic, and shows great taste in the

design. The centre contains an elegant room, the front of it forming a

segment of a circle; the wings contain a coach house and stabling. Over

the river Ogwen is a bridge corresponding with the architecture of the

house. This beautiful cottage is hid from the road by the trees and

plantation; Llwyd calls it “the Eden of the Mountains.”

Before quitting this remarkably interesting vicinity, we take leave to

quote the following description from the graphic pen of Miss Costello:—

“From Bangor the lofty towers and turrets of Penrhyn Castle are

conspicuous in the scenery, and have a very grand and imposing

appearance, more so than any modern erection of the kind I ever saw.

The building stands on a commanding height, and from its elevation

has a magnificent view of Beaumaris Bay, and all the wide sweep of

the sea, Puffin or Priestholm Island and a great part of Anglesea,

the fine bold rock of the Great Orme’s Head, said to have once been

dedicated to Serpent worship, and the range of the Caernarvonshire

mountains.

“So stately, so massive, and so stupendous is this castle, that it

scarcely seems the work of a modern architect; and if there had been

more simplicity observed in its construction, it might well pass for

a genuine Roman castle. The enormous profusion of ornament with

which the doors, windows, staircases, halls, and ceilings are

covered, betray the effort made to render that complete which would

have been more so with less pains. The involved pillars, the

redundant zigzags, the countless grotesque heads, of all sizes,

grinning from all heights, the groves of slender columns, the

circular arches, the semi-pointed arcades, form a maze of

architecture such as never could have before, in any age, appeared on

one spot.

“To wander through the wondrous halls of Penrhyn is like struggling

along in a bewildered dream, occasioned by having studied some

elaborate work on the early buildings of the Saxons and Normans. The

eyes are dazzled and the mind confused with the quick succession of

astonishing forms; but the result is rather wonder at the imagination

or close copying of the artist, and at the enormous wealth which

could repay such an exertion of skill, than admiration of the beauty

created. Mona marble and fine stone furnish materials for all these

sculptured treasures, and slate enters into much of the adornment;

for close by are the famous slate-quarries, which have produced the

enormous sums expended on this erection. In order to shew what can

be done with slate, various articles of furniture are placed in the

rooms occupying the places usually filled by carved wood and marble;

chimney-pieces and tables of polished slate are seen, but the great

triumph is a bedstead, beautifully carved, which, though far from

elegant, is yet exceedingly curious.

“The library and drawing-rooms are very fine, and have even a

comfortable appearance: all the house is gorgeously decorated, and

all its laboured splendour announces such immense riches, that it

seems as though the gnomes who work gold and silver in the

neighbouring hills had all been made slaves of some potent lamp or

ring, and had worked incessantly for years in the construction and

adornment of the most gigantic mass of architecture that ever was

beheld. There are, however, very few specimens of the higher order

of art; a few portraits are to be found in one room, which are

curious. In particular I was struck with a likeness of the

celebrated Anne Clifford, of Cumberland, when a child: she is dressed

in a stiff black dress, all over buttons and ornaments, and from

under her arm peeps a hideous little dog. As, in her memoirs, she

dwells a good deal on her own beauty, one cannot but smile at this

comment on her vanity, for, unless the artist did her great

injustice, she must have been a singularly ugly child. Two portraits

of the Countess of Derby are remarkable: one has a child’s doll lying

on a table near her, and in the other she is represented holding a

feather fan, and covered and half smothered with elaborate ruffs

which seem to bristle up in every part of her attire.

“The famous hirlas horn, belonging to an ancient Cambrian prince, the

treasure of the castle, we had not an opportunity of seeing, as we

found it was carefully locked up from public view. It held the same

place as the Saxon wassail bowl, and it was customary that those who

had the honour of drinking from it should empty the horn at one

draught, and then blow it, to prove that they had performed the feat

expected of them. One of the most picturesque objects on the way to

the famous slate quarries, is the little mill of Coet Mor, whose

wheel is turned by a rushing stream breaking wildly over heaps of

rocks.

“The slate quarries of Penrhyn are situated near Nant Ffrancon, at a

spot called Cae Braich-y-Cefn, and are exceedingly curious, and even

picturesque. We were conducted over them by a very loquacious

Irishman, the only person of his nation employed in the works, all

the others being Welsh.

“Most of these places, where enormous labour produces enormous

wealth, are to me displeasing to contemplate; but there is nothing

here that conveys an idea of over-tasked workmen, no horrible

underground toil and dark dungeon-like caves, where human creatures

are condemned, like souls in penance for some hideous crime, to drag

heavy weights and chains through frightful chasms, and delve and dig

for ore in spaces not large enough for them to stand upright; here

are no deadly vapours, no fatal gases mortal to humanity, all is wide

and open in the pure light of day, high, and broad, and healthy. The

mountain is cut into ridges of slate, and here and there the

projecting edges have formed themselves into graceful shapes: in the

very centre of the quarry rises a beautiful conical pillar of slate

which the admiration of the workmen has spared, now that their

labours have brought it to the shape which it bears. It is a great

ornament to the area, and it is to be regretted that in time it must

fall, as the slate of which it is composed happens to be of the

purest kind. The huts of the workmen scattered over the quarry have

a singular effect, and the wild aspect of the men accords well with

their abodes. The thundering sound produced by the occasional

blasting of the rock is very grand, as it rolls and echoes amongst

the caves, and along the heights; and the grey masses glowing in the

sun, and reflecting the sky through their rents, have an imposing

aspect.”

In July, 1844, the King of Saxony made a tour through England and Wales;

a narrative of which, written by His Majesty’s Physician, Dr. Carus, has

been published in the present year (1846). From that journal of the

royal travels, we extract the subjoined passages—which may serve to show

the impressions made upon the mind of an intelligent though somewhat

prejudiced foreigner, by the more striking objects of interest in this

locality.

“As the road approaches Bangor, it runs near the sea, and brings us

close to the end of one of the most extraordinary structures of

modern times—the vast iron suspension bridge which forms the junction

between the mainland and the island, universally known and celebrated

as the Menai Bridge.

“The drivers were ordered to stop, and we dismounted, in order to

pass over and examine this splendid work, and endeavour to gain as

accurate an idea as possible of its nature and size. The coasts of

Wales and Anglesea at both sides of the strait, are rocky, and about

100 feet high, and the breadth of the channel by which they are

separated, is about 1600 feet. The object was to connect the two

coasts by a bridge, and it has been fully attained. Two very stout

columns of solid masonry are built in the water, one on each side,

over the summits of which are stretched the immense chains, from

which the bridge itself is suspended. The channel between the

columns is about 600 feet wide, and over this stretches the

horizontal line of the road-way, which is supported and made fast by

means of about 800 strong iron rods. Each of the sixteen chains

which constitute the suspending power, is stated to be 1714 feet

long, and consists of large massive links, joined and bound together

by strong iron bolts. These chains pass over the tops of the

supporting columns, on moveable iron rollers of great strength, and

are thus in a condition readily to accommodate themselves to the

changes of temperature, without risk. The greatest difference in

length between the strongest summer heat and most intense winter

cold, is said to amount to sixteen inches. The work was begun under

the direction of Mr. Telford, in the year 1819, and finished in 1826.

Such is the general idea of the whole structure. When seen from the

side, it is very difficult immediately to form a notion of the

magnitude of the work; and besides, the simplicity of the outline

gives at first an impression of very moderate extent. The feeling is

very much the same as that with which strangers are impressed on the

first view of St. Peter’s in Rome. They find it extremely difficult

to believe that a structure of such magnitude is before them. And as

the banks on both sides are very uniform, it requires to be compared

with some other object—such as that of a large ship sailing through

beneath, in order to gain a correct notion of its real magnitude. On

viewing the bridge, and passing over it, through its long uniform

alleys of ever-recurring iron rods, another observation forced itself

upon my mind. This immense work, which in all its parts is regulated

by the principle of utility, is totally deficient in all the charms

of beauty. It cuts the landscape like a black uniform line, concave

on one side, and perfectly horizontal on the other; and when viewed

closely, the columns by which the bridge is supported, are wholly

destitute of every description of architectural or sculptural

ornament. Those perpetually recurring iron rods, which follow one

another in monotonous rows, only serve to suggest the feeling of

despair to which a painter must be reduced in any attempt to

delineate the structure, and to give any thing like an accurate

drawing of this tedious iron lattice-road. True, it may be very

difficult to combine the demands of taste with the strict principles

of utility in such an undertaking, where the grand object is

strength. There is, properly speaking, a genuine English, dry,

pedantic character usually exhibited in such structures as this.

And, after all, what style should art here apply in order to

introduce the charms of beauty into a work of this character?

Neither the Egyptian nor Grecian style is at all appropriate to works

in iron—the Gothic is quite as little applicable to such a

purpose—and I have already remarked that in addition to these three,

there can be as little pretension to introduce a fourth, really

distinct from them, as to add a new kingdom to those of the

recognised mineral, animal, and vegetable ones. This makes the task

of the architect a very difficult one to accomplish. It is for them

to see how the difficulty is to be met.

“Having passed over the bridge to the Anglesea side, we descended to

the shore, and took a boat, in order to have a view of this immense

structure from beneath. By far the clearest idea of the vastness of

the work is thus obtained, by viewing it from the green sea, which

flows beneath with a gentle southerly current; the true magnitude and

proportions of the bridge are then most deeply impressed upon the

mind; but even here, no idea of beauty is suggested. Other bridges,

with their various arches and ornamental buttresses, may, and

frequently do present objects of great beauty to the eye. This,

however, is, and must always remain, a great _mathematical figure_.

“After having thus examined the bridge from all parts of the river,

we descended into the vast cavern on the Anglesea side, in which the

ends of the chains are made fast in the rocks far under ground. The

whole is planned with great ingenuity and skill. The rock, which

forms the resisting power, is armed, as it were, with huge masses of

iron, containing deep mortices, into which the bolts that bind the

ends of the chains are made fast.

“In this manner, therefore, the sixteen powerful chains are fastened

in the deep rocks on both sides of the strait; and assuredly, no

human power or weight can be well conceived sufficient to tear them

from the depth in which they are anchored. Even the long Macadamized

bridge itself presents such a degree of stability, as to be very

little moved by the carriages which pass over its surface.”

* * * *

“On the morning of the 13th, (July, 1844,) the birthday of my dear

mother, I enjoyed a beautiful view of the little port of Bangor, from

the garden terrace of the hotel, from which a view is obtained of the

northern opening of the Menai Strait, of the bay of Beaumaris, and

the more distant mountains of Wales. The weather, too, was tolerably

fine in the morning; but at the time of our departure it had become

cloudy, and it was raining hard when we arrived at the remarkable and

extensive Penrhyn slate quarries, which are of great importance to

the whole of Wales. They are situated about six miles to the N.E. of

Bangor, on the slope of the hill, and have been particularly rich and

productive for the last fifty years. When one arrives at this quarry

from below, it presents the appearance almost of a crater open

towards the front, along the lips of which, twelve or fourteen

terraces run, one above another, each of which is from forty-five to

fifty feet high, and upon which the works of blasting and digging are

carried on by about 2000 workmen. The stone is of a reddish-brown;

sometimes, also, greyish slate, of fine grain, which splits well into

plates, and takes a fine polish. The mass never contains organic

remains, but is frequently traversed by strata of quarry or

limestone, in which crystals of some metals, principally copper and

iron, occur.

“The manner in which these quarries are worked is the following. On

the galleries, or terraces, large masses of slate are first detached

by means of powder, and then roughly hewn into shape. There are laid

along each of these terraces tram-roads formed of rails loosely laid

down, upon which the masses of slate, in waggons with suitable

wheels, are thrust along by men to the little houses situated on the

declivity of the mountain, at the extremities of the galleries. Here

they are split into smaller plates; and it is curious to observe how

regularly the slate splits into fine and still finer plates, down to

the thickness of three or four lines. Several pieces are allowed to

retain a thickness of an inch or an inch and a half, and are used for

tables and flagstones, the thinner ones for covering roofs, &c. The

manner, too, in which they are squared, being cut out at once by a

sort of hatchet, according to a line made by means of a ruler, is

very curious. The plates thus formed are distinguished by very

amusing names. Thus the largest are called _queens_, the next

_princesses_, then _duchesses_, _ladies_, and so on. The enormous

quantity of slate produced may be estimated from the facts, that a

railway has been constructed specially from these quarries to Penrhyn

harbour, at an expense of £170,000, which _every week_ takes down

between 500 and 600 tons, or about 12,000 cwt. of slate; and that the

yearly net produce has sometimes brought in as much as £60,000 to the

owner of the quarry, the Hon. Douglas Pennant.

“The quarrying itself is attended with considerable danger. The

workmen, when a portion of the rock is to be blasted from the upper

part of a gallery, are obliged to bore the hole, suspended in mid-air

by ropes, to load the hole so bored, to set fire to the match, and

then to place themselves beyond the reach of the explosion. They are

also exposed to the chance of accidents from the falling of portions

of the sharp slate; and it was carious, even yesterday—on which,

being pay-day, the work was not regularly going on—to hear now and

then the explosion of the blasting of some part of the rock, at the

same time that it was almost difficult to pass along the galleries,

without falling over the little railways or some of the sharp pieces

of stone. The manner in which Queen Victoria was received here, on

her visit some years ago, must have produced a curious effect. As

soon as she arrived, 1300 explosions were heard from all parts of the

quarry, having been all previously prepared for this purpose. After

having (the greater part of the time in the rain) inspected all the

parts of this immense quarry, and, besides, a saw-mill, for cutting

up the thicker plates of the slate, we returned towards Bangor, and

visited Penrhyn Castle, the property of the Hon. D. Pennant. In

olden times, a castle belonging to Roderic Molwynog, grandson of

Cadwallader, stood on this spot. It was rebuilt in the time of Henry

the Sixth, and has been quite lately renewed (under the direction of

a London architect, of the name of Hopper) by the father-in-law of

the present possessor. It is a remarkable and splendid building,

such as could only be completed with a revenue like that proceeding

from the quarries.

“On entering the park, the castle is seen on a wooded height, grey,

like Windsor, with large towers and high turrets, without any

apparent roof, quite like an old fortress. Through the castle-gate

we entered the court-yard, ornamented in the Norman style: but this

style is much more splendidly and grandly exhibited in the

entrance-hall, from whence staircases conduct to the upper rooms.

Every thing here is in the Saxon style of building; the columns with

their curious ornaments, and the upper parts covered with arabesques.

Tall stone candelabra and a splendid chimney-piece, all in the same

style, increase the magnificent appearance of the hall; the windows

with their round arches are filled with stained glass; the staircase

winds over arches supported on columns, and beside Norman statues; in

a word, the whole sight is grand and imposing. The internal

arrangements of the whole place, the drawing and dining rooms, the

library, the bed-rooms, are all on a similar scale of magnificence;

several wainscotted with beautiful carved oak: the furniture and beds

all harmonising with the prevailing style of the building. We

remarked a curious object in the state bed-room (almost all such

castles appear to have such a state room, with a bed in it); namely,

a bed, of which the whole of the bedstead and the posts which

supported the canopy were made of the finest black slate, beautifully

polished and manufactured. This reference to the principal

foundation of the wealth of the possessor, appeared to me to show his

gratitude rather than his taste. It may easily be supposed, however,

that other curious objects were to be seen here; among these, we were

shewn one of those curious drinking horns, formerly general in this

district, as also in Scandinavia. I was sorry that we entirely lost

the view from the continued rain; for this view, both towards the sea

and towards the mountains, must be of a very splendid description.”

BANGOR IS-Y-COED,

(_Flintshire_.)

Chester 13

Ellesmere 8

Holt 7

Overton 3

Whitchurch 10½

Wrexham 5

Bangor Is-y-coed stands in a detached part of the country, on the banks

of the Dee, over which is a good stone bridge of five arches, from the

vicinity of which a beautiful landscape is presented. This place is

celebrated as the site of the most ancient monastery in Britain, founded,

as old writers assert, by Lucius, the son of Coel, and first Christian

king of Britain, prior to the year 180. Lucius formed it into a

university, for the increase of learning, and the preservation of the

Christian faith in this realm; and it produced many learned men even in

that early age. At the arrival of Augustine about 596, on a mission from

Pope Gregory I. to convert the English Saxons to Christianity, this

monastery appears to have been in a very flourishing state. The monks at

Bangor were independent of the Romish church; and in a conference between

St. Augustine and its governors, the imperious missionary demanded of

them that they should keep the feast of Easter at the same time that the

Papists did; that they should administer baptism according to the

ceremonies of the church of Rome; and “preach the word of life with him

and his fellows.” In other things, he said, they would be allowed to

retain their ancient customs, insolently concluding, that “if they would

not accept of peace with their brethren, they should receive war from

their enemies.” They refused obedience to his injunctions, and

resolutely maintained the original rites of their church. Shortly after

this period followed the dreadful massacre of the monks of Bangor.

Not long after this event, the monastery became neglected, and went

entirely to decay. William of Malmsbury, who lived shortly after the

Norman conquest, asserts, that even in his time, there remained only some

relics of its ancient magnificence: there were, he says, so many ruined

churches and such immense heaps of rubbish, as were not elsewhere to be

found. Leland says of it, in the time of Henry the Seventh, that its

site was in a fertile valley on the south side of the Dee; but that the

river having since changed its course, then ran through the middle of the

ground on which it stood. The extent of its walls, he affirms, was equal

to that of the walls round a town; and the two gates, the names of which

had been handed down by tradition, had been half a mile asunder. Within

the memory of persons then living, the bones of the monks, and pieces of

their clothes, had been ploughed up, in the cultivation of the ground.

BARMOUTH OR ABERMAW,

(_Merionethshire_.)

Aberdovey 16

Dolgelley 10

Harlech 10

London 225

Towyn 12

The town of Barmouth is seated near the bottom of some high mountains,

many of the houses being built on the steep sides; and viewed from the

sea, it resembles a fortress of some strength, hanging immediately over

the sands. The town stands near to the sea, at the mouth of the Maw or

Mawddach, and takes its name of Barmouth, i.e. Abermaw or Mawddach, from

that circumstance. At high water, the tide here forms a bay above a mile

over, but the entrance is rather hazardous, on account of the sand-banks.

This is the only port of Merionethshire, but its commerce is not very

extensive. The chief manufactures are flannels and woollen stockings;

and of these Mr. Pennant observed sixty years ago, that £40,000 worth of

the former have been exported in a year, and £10,000 worth of stockings.

The parish church is distant about a mile and a half from the town, but

in 1830 a chapel of ease was opened here for Divine service, which is

principally performed in English. A national school has recently been

erected at the outskirts of the town, on the Harlech road, from an

excellent design by Mr. Jones, of Chester. There are also chapels in the

town occupied by the Wesleyans, the Calvinists, and Independents.

The town is generally well filled with fashionable bathers in the summer

season, for whose convenience, accommodation, and amusement, the

inhabitants have made ample provision. There are two excellent inns: the

Cors-y-gedol Arms, where post chaises and cars, as well as guides to

Coder Idris, and the lakes and waterfalls, may be obtained; and also the

Commercial Inn, with stabling and coach-houses. During the summer

months, stage-coaches leave and arrive every day in the week, except

Sunday, from different places, including Liverpool, Shrewsbury, and

Caernarvon. There is a mail every day to and from the latter place,

passing through Harlech, Tan-y-bwlch, Tremadoc, and Beddgelert. A

four-horse mail-coach between Chester and Barmouth has lately commenced

running daily. There are several good shops; and for the accommodation

of visitors, circulating libraries have been established. Here, also,

are two baths, a billiard-room, and a bowling-green. The lodging houses

are excellent. The town, and the turnpike-roads throughout the district,

have lately been greatly improved, and are still improving. The

population is about 2000.

“The beach,” says Mr. Bingley, “is one of the most delightful walks I

ever beheld. The wide river Mawddach winds among the mountains, forming

many and elegant promontories. These rise to great heights on each side,

some clad with wood, and others exhibiting their naked rocks, scantily

covered with purple heath. The summit of the lofty Cader Idris is seen

to rise above the other mountains, in the back ground.” From Barmouth a

delightful excursion may be made along the banks of the Maw, or in a boat

up the river, for about eight miles. The beach also affords a beautiful

drive of six miles. From this place a projecting causeway, called

Sarn-Badric, runs 15 miles into the sea, which tradition says, though her

evidence alone is but slight authority, once surrounded one hundred

cities. The upper part is perceptible at low water.

In the neighbourhood of Barmouth are several gentlemen’s mansions and

other pretty residences, of which Bryntirion, the property of Charles

Henry Harford, Esq., was the most beautiful: it was destroyed by fire

about the latter end of 1840, and has not yet been rebuilt.

The Rev. Mr. Newell, in his Scenery of Wales, observes that while at

Cors-y-gedol Arms, at Barmouth, he was introduced to a Welsh harper,

whose performance he did not seem much to admire. Mr. Newell then adds,

“It is a curious circumstance that we owe Gray’s Bard to a Welsh

harper—blind Parry, Sir W. W. Wynn’s harper. In a letter from Cambridge,

Gray says:—‘Mr. Parry has been here, and scratched out such ravishing

blind harmony, such tones of a thousand years old, with names enough to

choke you, as have set all this learned body a dancing, and inspired them

with due respect for my old bard, his countryman, whenever he shall

appear. Mr. Parry, you must know, has set my ode in motion again, and

has brought it at last to a conclusion.’”

The angling stations are, Arthog Chapel, three miles distant, and Llyn

Bodlyn, four miles from Barmouth; Llyn Irddin and Llyn Geirw, near to the

town; and Llyn Raithlyn, in the neighbourhood of Traws-fynydd.

BEAUMARIS,

(_Anglesea_.)

Amlwch 17

Bangor, by the bridge 6½

Caernarvon 12

Conway 14½

Holyhead 27

London, by Chester 258

— by Shrewsbury 243

Mona 14

Snowdon 12

Beaumaris, a most respectable and well-built town, in Anglesea, is a

corporate borough, where the assizes for that county are held. The town

and liberties are included in the parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes:

the whole occupying a district nearly semi-circular in form, and

presenting to the Menai a bold rocky cliff of three miles, and an

indented beach of more than two. This place, like many others on the

Welsh coast, has lately become a most fashionable resort for bathing

visitors, for which it is admirably adapted, the sands being firm and the

water clear. In 1805, hot baths were erected here, and accommodations of

the first class abound.

The church, formerly called “the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris,” is

considered as a chapel of ease to Llandegvan. It is situated on an

eminence in the centre of the town, and consists of a nave, isles, and

chancel, covered with lead, and embrasured; having a ring of six bells, a

clock, and an organ, all the gift of the late Lord Bulkeley. In the

chancel is a beautiful monument of a knight and his lady, in white

alabaster, recumbent on an altar-tomb. Mr. Llwyd says, they represent

Sir Richard Bulkeley and his lady; the former was appointed Chamberlain

of North Wales, and was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth. In the

church, a white marble monument, executed by Westmacott, in memory of the

late Lord Bulkeley, who died June 3, 1822, stands on the left side of the

altar: this beautiful piece of sculpture represents Faith directing the

view of the dejected widow towards the bust of her husband and to heaven.

Also a beautiful monument of a female kneeling in an attitude of

devotion, on a pedestal, by Ternouth, to the memory of Charlotte Mary,

first wife of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley, Bart., and daughter of Lord

Dinorben. There is likewise a tablet to the memory of David Hughes,

erected in 1812, by some persons who had been educated in the Free School

of which he was the founder. There are also several other monuments and

tablets, but not possessing any peculiar attraction. On a plain stone

near the east entrance into the church is the following quaint

inscription to the memory of Meredith Davies:—

Who has been our parish clerk

Full one and thirty years, I say,

Must here, alas! lie in the dark

Bemoaned for ever and for aye.

Near to the church is the Free School, founded in 1603, by David Hughes,

Esq., who also endowed alms-houses for six poor persons, to whom he

granted annuities; the late Lord Bulkeley added four to this number; they

are situated about a mile from the town, near the entrance of Baron Hill

Park. Near the castle are the shire hall, and other suitable offices,

where the assizes are held. The town-hall is a good building, comprising

the assembly-room and a suite of civic apartments. A custom-house and a

national school are also included among the public institutions of

Beaumaris.

The Williams Bulkeley Arms Hotel is a magnificent establishment, and most

admirably conducted. The Commercial and Liverpool Arms Inns are also

houses where good accommodation may be had. The market-days are

Wednesday and Saturday. Population, 2299.

Beaumaris enjoys a most beautiful and sublime prospect, with the

distinguishing peculiarity, that the eye at the same time rests on a

noble expanse of the ocean, and an extensive range of some of the

loftiest mountains in Wales. A grander or more interesting scene it is

impossible to imagine. From the spacious piece of ground called the

Green, which, landward, is enclosed by the hotel, a splendid range of

houses called Victoria Terrace, and the old Castle, this enchanting view

is seen to the best advantage; seaward, at full tide, it presents to the

eye an infinite variety, in numbers of trading vessels, yachts, and

smaller pleasure boats, constantly passing close to the beach, whilst at

low water the sands afford many delightful and extensive drives.

“Ever charming, ever new,

When will the landscape tire the view?”

The Castle.

Beaumaris castle was the last of the three great fortresses erected by

Edward the First, to hold in awe his new and unwilling subjects on both

sides the Menai. For this purpose he fixed upon a flat near the water

side, with the view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double

purpose of defence, and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes

under its walls; part of which canal, called the Llyn-y-Green, was till

lately remaining; and the large iron ring, to which the vessels were

fastened, is still in its place at the great east gate.

Within the present ruins of the castle is an area or square, of 190 feet,

with obtuse corners; on the right is the chapel, an admirable piece of

masonry, and the only entire room in all Edward’s buildings; its stone

arched roof having saved it at the general dilapidation. Opposite to the

south-east entrance is the great hall, 70 feet long and 23 broad, with a

range of five elegant windows, and forming a front (its turreted angles

excepted) that has rather a modern appearance; and though, upon the

whole, a fortress of prodigious magnitude, yet its low situation, and the

great diameter of its Moorish towers, cause its ample proportions to

appear of less height and extent than is really the case. This castle is

reputed to be the scene of the massacre of the bards by Edward the First,

who does not appear to have felt secure in his newly-acquired dominions

so long as this influential order remained to raise the song and string

the lyre to deeds of patriotic resistance. The same system of

persecution seems to have been acted upon after the death of the

bardicide; for in the reign of Henry the Fourth, Rhŷs Gôch, speaking of

Gruffydd Llwyd, says—

“The best of bards is interdicted.”

Within the area of this ancient castle, in the month of August, 1832, was

held a splendid Congress of Bards, or Eisteddfod, under the munificent

patronage of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley. It was attended by most of the

nobility and gentry of the neighbouring counties; and the meeting derived

peculiar importance from the presence of Her Royal Highness the Duchess

of Kent, and her illustrious daughter, then Princess Victoria, now the

Queen of these realms. During several months of that summer, the royal

party had honoured the Principality with their residence, fixing their

domicile for the time at Plâs Newydd, the elegant seat of the Marquis of

Anglesea. A grand regatta in the bay followed the literary and musical

contests in the castle; and the evenings were agreeably enlivened with

splendid concerts, balls, and other festivities.

Baron Hill.

On an eminence behind the town stands this charming residence of the late

Lord Bulkeley. At his death, it descended to his nephew, Sir R. B. W.

Bulkeley, Bart. M.P., by whom it is now occupied. It has recently been

rebuilt and modernised, and is delightfully situated on the declivity of

a richly-wooded hill, commanding a fine prospect of all the northern

mountains of Caernarvonshire, of the bay of Beaumaris, and a vast expanse

of sea. This place has been in possession of the Bulkeley family from

the date of the second charter of the corporation of Beaumaris, procured

in the reign of Elizabeth. The house was originally built in the reign

of James I., for the reception of Henry, the eldest son of that monarch,

when on his way to Ireland. But his untimely death so much affected Sir

Richard Bulkeley, the owner, that he gave up his original and magnificent

plan, and used the part only that was then completed for his family seat.

The old house was greatly enlarged and improved by its late noble

possessor. The extensive grounds are finely wooded, and laid out with

great taste and judgment. The gardens have been extended and beautified,

and the liberal owner generously allows them to be thrown open for the

accommodation of the public. Sir R. Bulkeley is deservedly esteemed for

his efforts to improve the agriculture of his native county, by the

introduction of modern and scientific culture.

At a short distance east of the house, in a sylvan recess, is the stone

coffin of the Princess Joan, consort of Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of

Wales in 1105. It had originally been deposited in the subjacent

monastery of Llanvaes, and, on the dissolution of that religions

establishment, was placed to receive a watering brook, like that of

Richard III. at Leicester, after the fatal battle of Bosworth field. In

1812 it was discovered, in its ignoble uses, by Mr. R. Llwyd, author of

Beaumaris Bay, after being lost for 290 years, when it was removed to its

present situation by the late Lord Bulkeley.

A few hundred yards distant from Baron Hill is Henllys Lodge, the

residence of Captain Lewis Hampton, containing a valuable collection of

curiosities, which any respectable person is at liberty to inspect.

Contiguous to it is The Fryars, the residence of the late Lady Williams,

relict of the late Sir R. Williams, Bart., of Nant, Caernarvonshire, and

mother of Sir R. W. Bulkeley, Bart.

Six miles from Beaumaris is the village of PENTRAETH, delightfully

situated in the vicinity of Red Wharf. Near it are the mansions of

Plâs-gwyn, the seat of Lord Vivian, who married Miss Panton, the heiress

and grand daughter of the late Jones Panton, Esq., and thus became

possessed of this fine property, which he has greatly unproved; Rhiwlas,

the seat of the Rev. Gethin Williams; and Red Hill, the seat of —

Sparrow, Esq. The neighbourhood is worthy of a visit, being the direct

road to Amlwch.

The church at Pentraeth was thought worthy of an engraving by Mr. Grose,

the antiquary. The Panton Arms is a good country house of entertainment.

Not far from Pentraeth, and near the sea-side, is Tre’r Castell, formerly

the residence of Marchudd, founder of one of the royal tribes of Wales.

It is now an ancient castellated mansion. It was also the residence of

Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, who did homage to Edward the second, when Prince of

Wales, at Chester. On this domain is supposed to have been fought, in

818, the “sore battle of Llanfaes,” between Egbert, King of the Welsh

Saxons, and Merfyn Frych, King of Wales. From this place Queen Elisabeth

received annually a large supply of metheglin or mead, a favourite Welsh

beverage. Close by is Castell Aber Lleiniog, where are the vestiges of

an ancient fort, founded by Hugh Lupus and the Earl Hugh of Shrewsbury,

when they took possession of Anglesea. The neighbourhood, in fact, is

rich in scenic beauty and historical associations.

Beaumaris Bay,

Which stretches itself before and on each side of the town forms a

well-sheltered harbour, and in stormy weather affords security to vessels

of considerable burthen. The depth of the water near the town is six or

seven fathoms even when the tide is out; but this deep channel scarcely

extends more than a quarter of a mile in width. All the rest of the bay,

for several miles, is left dry at low water, and has the name of Lavan

Sands. Among the intelligent natives an opinion is prevalent that these

sands once formed a habitable hundred of Caernarvonshire, and were first

overflowed during the sixth century.

The sea of the Menai occasionally produces very singular fish. That

called the Beaumaris Shark sometimes appears; a curious species of

mussel; and creatures of forms that astonish the fishermen;—

“Strange things come up, to look at them,

The monsters of the deep.”

This may perhaps account for the marvellous legend, preserved in “The

Triads of the Isle of Britain,” concerning “the Palug Cat of the Menai.”

A remarkable whale was captured in this Bay in the spring of 1846, and

sent to Liverpool for exhibition. The whole shore throughout the

district is said to be “a mine of fish.”

Llanvaes Abbey.

About a mile from Beaumaris, near the seat of the widow of late Sir

Robert Williams, Bart., and not far from the shore, are yet to be seen,

in the walls of a barn, the poor remains of the house of Franciscan

friars, founded in the thirteenth century by Llywelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince

of Wales, still called by the above name. At the dissolution, the

establishment maintained eight friars, of whom two only were allowed to

be Welshmen, when the convent and its possessions were sold: they are at

present the property of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley.

Penmon Priory.

Two miles north of Llanvaes Friary, stands this ancient and decayed ruin,

consisting at present of little more than the ruinous refectory and part

of the church. This was a priory of Benedictine monks, dedicated to St.

Mary, founded in the sixth century, and re-endowed in the thirteenth by

Llywelyn ab Iorwerth. At its suppression by Henry the Eighth, the

revenues were valued at £48 per annum.

Priestholm, or Puffin Island,

A small island, divided by the narrow channel called the Sound from the

eastern extremity of Anglesea: its British name, Ynys Seriol, is derived

from the residence of St. Seriol upon it in the sixth century: the

compound name of Priest-holm originated in its being the occasional

retreat of the religious of the neighbouring priory of Penmon. It is

also called Puffin Island, from its being annually resorted to by these

birds for the purpose of breeding.

This island will afford a day of sport to the disciple of Colonel

Hawker—or of information to the industrious antiquary—or amusement to a

pic-nic party; and indeed, to all visitors in search of health, pleasure,

or the picturesque, who may be sojourning at Beaumaris. It is nearly a

mile from the shore, to the edge of which it slopes in verdant turf on

each side from its lofty central eminence. In shape it resembles a

lemon, extending a mile in length and half a mile in breadth. Near the

centre are the ruins of an old square tower, supposed to have been a

portion of a religious house, once subordinate to the priory of Penmon;

which, from “the odour of sanctity” thrown around it by popular

tradition, attracted many devotees, and penitents, and dying persons, to

its sacred shrine, either as the subjects of pilgrimage or prayer, or to

obtain interment within its holy walls. Giraldus says, “the island was

inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour and serving God.” The

superior reputation which this monastery enjoyed, induced the Welsh

princes, Llywelyn and David, and (after the conquest of the country)

Edward the First, to grant to it the revenues of Penmon. Prince Owen

Gwynedd, who lies buried here, was the founder; and its sanctuary became

the refuge at once of the oppressor and the oppressed, in that lawless

age to which it belonged. Little remains to attest the presence of the

crowds of devout men that thronged it, or of the noble, the wealthy, or

of the poor, that once were interred in its consecrated cemetery. A

colony of rabbits has usurped their territory; and swarms of cormorants,

stormy petrels, curlews, and _puffin auks_, and, even though but

comparatively seldom seen, peregrine falcons hasten to these shores in

the summer months, to breed and nurture their young. There is a small

house on the island for the man who attends a signal staff erected here

in 1826, to form part of the telegraphic communication between Liverpool

and Holyhead.

A pleasant aquatic excursion may he made from Garth Point to Puffin

Island, passing through the picturesque bay of Beaumaris, the distance

being nine miles.

A melancholy interest attaches to this neighbourhood from a most

calamitous event which occurred in the bay of Beaumaris, on the night of

the 17th August, 1831. On the morning of that day, the _Rothsay Castle_

steamer left the pier-head, Liverpool, for Beaumaris, the number of

passengers and seamen being between 120 and 140 souls. After passing the

floating light, stationed about 15 miles from Liverpool, the sea became

very rough and the wind adverse; and some of the passengers, apprehensive

of danger, in vain urged the captain, Lieutenant Atkinson, to return.

Between the Great and Little Ormeshead the vessel was beating about for

three hours, and soon after passing the latter, night had come on, the

sea running high, and the tide ebbing. It was near twelve o’clock when

she arrived at the mouth of the Menai Strait, about five miles from

Beaumaris. When opposite the tower on Puffin Island, suddenly the steam

got so low that the engine would not keep the vessel on her proper

course; and she struck on what is called the spit of the Dutchman’s Bank,

where she remained immovable till she went to pieces. At least one

hundred persons are known to have perished, and twenty-one were

ascertained to be saved.

A strict investigation into the causes of this dreadful calamity was

subsequently instituted, from which it appeared that the vessel itself

was unfit for the station; that there were no guns on board to make

signals of distress; that the captain and mate were in a state of

intoxication during the time of peril; that there had been great

mismanagement and obstinacy on the part of the former, and criminal

negligence in omitting to furnish the vessel with necessary apparatus for

such an emergency. The most praiseworthy activity is ascribed to the

gentry and other inhabitants of Beaumaris, as well as the boatmen

belonging to the bay, in rescuing the surviving sufferers, and providing

places of decent sepulture for the dead. On this subject, the following

testimony, from the pen of Lieutenant Morrison, of the Royal Navy, who

has published a Narrative of the unfortunate wreck, is truly

valuable:—“The meritorious efforts made by Sir Richard Bulkeley, Bart.

and other gentlemen of the neighbourhood, to insure respect to the

remains of the unfortunate sufferers, I believe to have been attended

with perfect success. Indeed, I saw numerous valuable and portable

articles which had been saved, and lodged in the hands of the authorities

of Beaumaris, and which might have been very readily abstracted by the

finders, to whom they offered great temptation. I was never among the

inhabitant of North Wales before, and I must observe that the very

excellent conduct of the lower orders on this occasion forms a strong

contrast to that I have witnessed on the coasts of Devonshire and the

south of Ireland.”

The many accidents in this bay at length induced the corporation of the

Trinity House to erect a lighthouse on the south-westerly point of the

island, at a part called Trwyn-du, or Black Point, which was finished in

the course of the summer of 1838. It is a splendid work of art in the

bell form; and contains more courses of masonry under low-water mark than

the celebrated Eddystone lighthouse. The light is thrown out to sea by

means of a strong reflector erected on the opposite or Anglesea coast.

It is worthy of attention, and visitors will find it a pleasant sail from

Bangor and Beaumaris.

From April to October, first-class steam-packets regularly arrive from

Liverpool every afternoon (except Sunday) about five o’clock at the

Bangor Ferry inn (which has lately been much improved and enlarged), and

return the next morning between eight and nine o’clock, calling each way

at Garth Point and Beaumaris. And we may here add that this is the

cheapest and most interesting marine excursion which can be enjoyed from

Liverpool.

BEDDGELERT,

(_Caernarvonshire_.)

Aber-glaslyn 1½

Caernarvon 13

Llanberis 12

Snowdon Summit 6

Tan-y-Bwlch 10

Tre-Madoc 7

Beddgelert, a village most charmingly situated in a beautiful tract of

meadows, at the junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Gwynnant

and the Colwyn.

The church is erected on the site of an ancient priory of Augustine

monks, with which a convent for nuns was also incorporated. Part of the

arches and clustered columns which supported the nave of the priory are

still visible in the wall of the church, and there are other remains

which prove the original religious establishment to have been of

considerable extent. In 1194 it was endowed with lands by Llywelyn the

Great; and it is recorded that in those days the prior had fifty cows and

twenty-two sheep. In 1283 it suffered from fire, and Edward I. repaired

the damages. In 1535 Henry VIII. bestowed it on the abbey of Chertsey,

in Surrey; and in 1577 it was made appurtenant to that of Bisham, Berks.

Moel Hebog (the Hawk Hill) rises boldly from the vale in front of the

village, which takes its name—Beddgelert, or the Grave of Gelert, from an

affecting tradition, which has been made the subject of an admirably

pathetic ballad by the Hon. W. R. Spencer. Miss Costello gives this

romantic legend with her wonted taste and effect:—

“King John had given to Llywelyn the Great, not only his daughter

Joanna in marriage, but as a prize little inferior, a fine greyhound,

of superior breed and great beauty, who was wont to take the lead in

all his expeditions, and to bring down the game in gallant style.

The usual season of the chase arrived, and the prince, his wife, and

children had repaired to the hunting-ground in this valley: one day

Llywelyn set forth, and had not gone far when he discovered that

Gelert, his favourite hound, had lagged behind; he called him in

vain, and, out of temper and impatient, he continued his way, and

occupied himself in his sport, still, however, dwelling with vexation

on the absence of his constant companion. On his return, as he was

about to enter his dwelling, he was met by Gelert, who leaped upon

him and shewed every demonstration of delight. The prince angrily

drove him off, and, as he did so, remarked that the jaws of the dog

were covered with blood, that blood was on the floor and on the

walls—a strange foreboding of evil stole over his mind: his infant

son had been left in the cradle—no attendant was near—he tracked the

crimson stairs—they led him to the spot where his child reposed—the

cradle was overturned, the infant gone, and a pool of blood was at

his feet.

“Llywelyn allowed himself not a moment’s time for reflection—Gelert

was fawning beside the couch of his murdered child—his fangs were red

with gore—he could not doubt but that the wretched animal had torn

the sleeping babe, and drawing his sword, he plunged it into the body

of the hound. At this instant he heard a cry—he darted forward,

removed the confused heap before him, and, struggling beneath, he

beheld his child uninjured, his tiny hands resting on the body of a

gaunt wolf, which had been killed by Gelert in his defence.

“What was now left for Llywelyn but remorse and late repentance?—he

erected a tomb over the remains of the faithful dog, and the spot is

called ‘the Grave of Gelert’ to this day.

“There is a Welsh adage which alludes to this legend, ‘he repents as

much as the man who killed the dog’—and this would naturally lead one

to imagine that the sad tale were indeed true; nevertheless, the same

is told in many places, and seems originally to have come from the

far East, where almost all beautiful stories had their birth.

“It is said to be engraven on a rock in Limerick; it is told in an

old English romance; it is repeated in France; and it is the subject

of Persian drama!”

Some chroniclers assert, that Prince Llywelyn founded the church of

Beddgelert to commemorate the preservation of his son, and as some

atonement for slaying his preserver, the faithful hound.

In a field contiguous to the churchyard, is a large stone, which is said

to mark the spot where Gelert was buried. Near the stone is a building,

now used as a cow-house, which is reputed to have been the residence of

the prince.

There is an excellent inn here, the Goat, recently enlarged and improved,

not inferior in accommodation to any in Wales. The Caernarvon and

Tan-y-Bwlch mail coach passes twice a day through the village. Behind

the old public house opposite is an interesting view of a solemn dell.

The eye, in surveying this chasm, is relieved now and then by spots of

verdure, patches of heath, thinly-scattered sheep, and the beautiful

curvature of the mountain. In the Welsh annals this region is styled the

Forest of Snowdon. A guide to the many objects of interest in the

locality may be procured at any time at the Goat inn. When Mr. Nicholson

traversed this part of the country, the name of the guide was William

Lloyd, who was also the village schoolmaster, and who thus explained his

occupation in a placard stuck upon the door of the inn:—“William Lloyd,

conductor to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes,

waterfalls, &c. &c.” The name of the present guide is Richard Edwards.

On the road towards Aber-glaslyn, a stone is pointed out by the name of

the Chair of Rhŷs Gôch o’r ’Ryri, the famous mountain bard, contemporary

with Owen Glyndwr. He was of the house of Havod-garegog, at the entrance

into the Traeth Mawr sands, whence he used to walk, and sitting on this

craggy seat, composed his poems. Among others is a satire on a fox, for

killing his favourite peacock. He died about the year 1490, and was

interred in the holy ground at Beddgelert, escaping the vengeance of the

English, for inspiring his countrymen with the love of liberty, and

animating them by his compositions into a long and gallant resistance to

the galling yoke.

The neighbourhood of Beddgelert abounds with objects worthy of the

tourist’s attention; and of several of these we will now add a few

particulars.

Nant Gwynnant.

Turning to the right hand on crossing the bridge leading from the inn,

you follow up the course of a stream that waters one of the most

beautiful valleys in Wales. On the left, about half a mile up the

valley, is a lofty wood-clad rock, called Dinas Emrys, the fort of

Ambrosius, or Merlin Emrys, a magician who was sent for to this place

from Caer Merddin (Carmarthenshire) by Vortigern, who was king of Britain

from 449 to 466. It was to this place that Vortigern retired, when he

found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend longer with

the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into his kingdom. It is

probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary residence, till

be removed to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheryn, or Vortigern’s Valley,

not far from Nevyn, in the promontory of Lleyn. Speed says that

Vortigern married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon

prince, and had by her one son.—On passing round the foot of another

beautiful isolated rock,