And about a quarter of a mile before you come to it, you pass on your
right Pen-y-Parc Hill, on the top of which is a Roman encampment,
afterwards occupied by the famous Owen Gwynedd, during his struggles
against English encroachments; and it was here he pitched his tents after
his “fine retreat before Henry the Second, whom he here kept at bay.”
The curious may visit it from the village, inquiring for Park Meirch,
_where the old battles were fought_. And close to this place is
Dinorben, an ancient manor-house, from which is the title of Lord
Dinorben, whose residence, Kinmel Park, is a little beyond, and close to
the village. About six years since the mansion was destroyed by fire;
but has now been rebuilt in a style of princely elegance, and has once
more become the home of that hospitality for which the respected
proprietor is famous. The park is finely wooded and well stocked with
deer. The scenery from the house is rich, varied, and beautiful; the
gardens and grounds are extensive, and tastefully laid out. His royal
highness, the Duke of Sussex, for several years before his death,
annually spent some weeks at Kinmel in the shooting season.
The church at St. George is a neat structure, and has recently been
restored by Lord Dinorben, the patron. In the church-yard is a costly
stone mausoleum, in the Gothic style, erected over the remains of Lady
Dinorben, a lady beloved for her virtues, and eminent for her charities.
The architect was Mr. Jones, of Chester: the design and workmanship are
chaste and elegant.
Not far from Kinmel, towards St. Asaph, is Bodelwyddan, the modern
elegant mansion of Sir John Hay Williams, Bart., one of the most lovely
spots in Wales; and in the plain below is Pengwern, the hospitable seat
of Lord Mostyn.
ABERYSTWYTH,
(_Cardiganshire_.)
Aberdovey 11
Devil’s Bridge 12
Llanidloes 30
London, by Ross 217
Machynlleth 18
[It may be necessary to apprise the reader, that though this work is
professedly a description of North Wales ONLY, it has been thought
advisable to deviate from the letter of its title, so far as to include
within its pages the above distinguished town, and that great and
attractive curiosity, the Devil’s Bridge; both of which, situated in
Cardiganshire, the North Wales tourist usually visits, the town being
only 18 miles beyond Machynlleth, and the cataract the same distance from
Llanidloes.]
Aberystwyth has long been esteemed a fashionable watering place; the
gently sloping beach, the clearness of the water, and the salubriousness
of the air, have all conspired to render it an inviting spot for
sea-bathing; and within the last few years, the efforts of art have been
sedulously employed in seconding the works of nature, by furnishing to
its visitants excellent roads, superior accommodations, and suitable
buildings for fashionable amusements. Pleasant walks have also been
formed in the environs. The town, which owes its origin to the erection
of the castle, is described by Leland as having been encompassed by
walls, (the last remains of which were removed some years since,) and as
being in his time a better market than Cardigan; and Camden, who ascribes
the building of its walls to Gilbert de Clare, earl of Strongbow, states,
that it was then the most populous town in the county. Since that time
it has materially increased, both in extent and importance, and may be
still regarded as the most flourishing place in this part of South Wales,
its population in 1841 being returned at 4916. It is pleasantly situated
at the lower extremity of the valley of Rheidiol, amid lofty hills, and
on a bold eminence overlooking the bay of Cardigan, by which it is
bounded on one side, while on the other it is environed by the Rheidiol,
over which is a stone bridge of five arches, forming an entrance to it
from the south.
The houses are in general well built, and of respectable appearance,
several of them being large and handsome, especially such as are of
modern erection, which are entirely of stone. The streets are disposed
with considerable regularity, and well paved and macadamised. The
inhabitants are supplied with water from the river Rheidiol, which is
brought into the town on carriages in the form of small carts, drawn by
one horse, each holding two barrels, and sold at a low rate. About the
commencement of the last century, it began to rise into notice as a
bathing-place, and from a series of progressive improvements, is now one
of the most frequented places of fashionable resort on this part of the
coast.
The beach affords a pleasant and interesting walk; and the shore,
consisting of lofty and precipitous rocks of dark-coloured slate, is worn
by the action of the waves into caverns of romantic and picturesque
appearance. The beach is composed of fine pebbles, among which are found
many valuable stones; the water in consequence is always peculiarly
clear, and uncontaminated with any admixtures. In sandy situations, the
contrary is frequently the case. The fine stones are picked up with
great avidity by the numerous visitors residing here in the summer
months, and afford ample employment to several lapidaries in the town.
Hot sea-water, vapour, and medicated baths are provided with every
requisite accommodation; several bathing machines are in attendance, and
from the convenient sloping of the beach, a facility of bathing is
afforded at almost any state of the tide, within a very short distance of
the shore. For the reception of the increasing number of visitors, many
additional lodging-houses have been built, of which the Marine Terrace, a
handsome range of modern buildings suitable for private families, is
situated on the margin of the bay, commanding a fine marine view. The
Belle Vue is a spacious and commodious hotel; in front of which is a fine
promenade. On the south-west of the Marine Terrace, is a gateway leading
to a spacious castellated mansion, called the Castle-house, commanding an
extensive view across the bay: it was originally built as a private
mansion by the late Sir Uvedale Price, Bart. of Foxley hall,
Herefordshire, and consists of three octagonal towers, connected by
ranges of apartments, and having a light and elegant balcony on the side
towards the sea. Beyond this, on one side is the Castle Hill, crowned
with the venerable ruins of an ancient fortress, and forming another
favourite promenade, affording from different points various extensive,
romantic, and interesting views of the sea, the neighbouring hills, and
the surrounding country.
On the other side of the Castle Hill, separated only by the churchyard,
are the new public rooms, handsomely built in the Grecian style of
architecture, on ground given by W. E. Powell, Esq., of Nant Eös, from a
design by Mr. Repton, at an expense of £2000, raised by subscription in
shares of £10 each, and opened to the public in 1820. The suite consists
of a very handsome assembly and promenade room, a card-room and a
billiard-room. There is a good library in the new market-place; a new
theatre has been built on the north parade, and was opened for the first
time in the summer of 1833. The church, dedicated to St. Michael, was
built by subscription in the year 1787: it is a plain structure, situated
within the precincts of the castle, and separated from the walks along
the ruins of that edifice by a stone wall erected at the expense of the
inhabitants. A gallery was erected in the church at its western end in
the year 1790, at an expense of £104 14s., which was defrayed by Mrs.
Margaret Pryce. The service is performed in the morning and evening in
the English language, and in the afternoon in Welsh; there is likewise
service on the evenings of Wednesday in the English, and on the Thursday
in the Welsh language.
The augmented population of this place, and the increasing number of
visitors during the season, having rendered the erection of another place
of worship necessary, a church or chapel has been recently built upon a
large scale by subscription, after a plan by Mr. Haycock, of Shrewsbury,
in the modern Gothic style, at an expense of £3600, including a grant of
£1000 from the parliamentary commissioners, and £400 from the society for
the enlargement of churches and chapels: it was consecrated in September,
1833. The parish church is situated at Llanbadarn, at about a mile
distant from the town. There is a peculiarity regarding the grave-stones
at this place: they are generally fixed in a stack of bricks built up for
the purpose, and white-washed, the tablet appearing in front. The
surface of the grave is usually paved with a kind of small marble stones,
which are found in abundance on the beach. There are also several places
of worship for dissenters. Aberystwyth likewise possesses the advantage
of a chalybeate spring, situate at a very short distance east of the
town. This spring was discovered by a kind of accident in 1779. It is
highly spoken of, as containing valuable medicinal properties, and much
resembling the Tunbridge waters; but it is always advisable that a
physician should be consulted as to the season and extent of its use. To
complete the circle of attractions which this interesting place presents,
the annual races are here rising into repute; these usually take place in
August, in a field near Gogerddan, about three miles from the town.
Archery and cricket clubs have also been established, and are upheld with
great spirit; and here the lovers of angling may be gratified with their
favourite diversion. The Ystwyth and the Rheidiol are in the immediate
vicinity; the autumnal fishing for salmon and sewin is excellent; and
within a day’s excursion, a variety of lake-fishing will afford capital
sport.
Aberystwyth contains many interesting relics of antiquity, and was
evidently in the “olden time,” a place of some renown, as well as a scene
of some of the unhappy troubles which darkened the reign of Charles the
First.
In queen Elizabeth’s reign a company of Germans reaped a large fortune in
working the silver mines in the vicinity of this town. Sir Hugh
Myddleton, after them, was equally successful, and accumulated £2000 a
month out of one silver mine at Bwlch yr Eskir, which enabled him (in
1614) to bring the new river to London. He, again, was succeeded by Mr.
Bushell, a servant of Sir Francis Bacon, who also gained such immense
profits, that he made Charles the First a present of a regiment of horse,
and clothed his whole army; he also furnished the king with a loan of
£40,000, which was considered as a gift to supply his necessities; and
when that unfortunate monarch was pressed, his devoted subject raised a
regiment among his miners at his own charge.
On Pen Dinas, a very high and steep hill, near the bridge over the
Rheidiol, is a large entrenchment, still in a good state of preservation,
and where, Caradoc informs us, Rhŷs ap Gruffydd, in 1113, encamped his
forces, which, by a manœuvre of the English, were enticed from the hill
over the bridge, to besiege Aberystwyth castle, where they were
surrounded and cut off almost to a man. The tradition of the town
attributes this entrenchment to the forces employed by Cromwell to
besiege the castle. Opposite this, on a hill at the extremity of the
town, are two other entrenchments, in a bad state of preservation and
destitute of the tumuli or barrows, often found contiguous to such
vestiges in Wales.
Aberystwyth is a place of considerable trade; but the harbour, being a
bar harbour, is of uncertain and often dangerous navigation, and
frequently choked up, until the land freshes come down, after heavy falls
of rain, and force a passage. The trustees, acting under the harbour act
passed in 1780, being empowered to raise the sum of £4000 for its
improvement, upon mortgage of the dues, and seeing the necessity of doing
something more effectually than the works they were occasionally enabled
to erect by the expenditure of the annual revenues, which were constantly
being swept away by the sea, determined upon employing that eminent
engineer and hydrographer, the late Mr. Nimmo, to survey the harbour, and
to give his report thereon. The report having been published, by which
it appeared that a sum of £10,000 was necessary to carry his suggestions
into effect; a committee was formed, who issued a prospectus, soliciting
subscriptions from those disposed to aid them in the accomplishment of so
desirable an object, and the following munificent donations were
immediately made: the Duke of Newcastle, £1000; the Earl of Lisburne,
£500; Colonel Powell, M.P. £500; Pryce Pryce, Esq. M.P. £500. The works
have since been completed.
The walks and drives in the vicinity are numerous and engaging; and from
the number of eminences by which the town is environed on the land side,
views the most varied and interesting present themselves to the lover of
the picturesque. From the summit of Pen Dinas, he at once beholds three
beautiful valleys, with the rivers Ystwyth and Rheidiol winding their
devious course on either side beneath his feet. On turning round, he is
gratified with a magnificent view of the expansive bay of Cardigan, with
its bold coast stretching out on either hand to the extremity of
Cardiganshire on the southern side, and that of Caernarvon on the
northern; the latter embracing within its range the rocky ridge of Cader
Idris and the lofty peaks of Snowdon. The prospect from the summit of
Craig-lâs is equally beautiful and diversified. The new line of road to
Hereford and Shrewsbury, completed at an expense of £4000, along the
opposite bank of the Rheidiol, to the Devil’s Bridge road, and nearly
parallel with it, passes through some fine scenery, and the course of the
river from the excellent new inn at Ponterwyd is wild and terrific,
particularly about the spot called the Parson’s Bridge, half a mile
therefrom.
The hotels and inns at Aberystwyth afford every comfort for the
entertainment of visitors, and there is every facility of coach
travelling to various parts of the country.
THE DEVIL’S BRIDGE,
(_Cardiganshire_.)
Aberystwyth 12
Havod 4
Llanidloes 19
Pont-y-Mynach, or Pont-ar-Fynach, vulgarly the Devil’s Bridge, near the
Havod Arms inn, is a single arch, about 30 feet in the chord, thrown over
another arch of less than 20 feet, which spans a dark and tremendous
chasm. The under arch is said to have been thrown across by the monks of
Ystrad Florida Abbey, about the year 1087; but the country people,
thinking so bold an effort above the reach of those ghostly fathers,
ascribed it to his Satanic Majesty. The present bridge was built in
1753, at the expense of the county, over the original, which was left
standing; and the railings were put up in 1814, by Mr. Johnes, of Havod.
It is a most romantic and extraordinary structure.
The scenery in this neighbourhood is inexpressibly grand and sublime—what
Byron would call, “a blending of all beauties;” a combination of all
those lovely charms and impressive wonders, which Nature has scattered
with such exuberant prodigality throughout the mountains and valleys of
Wales.
The Havod Arms inn stands on a most interesting site in this locality,
and affords excellent accommodation to tourists.
Few persons, whether from North or South Wales, who visit the falls of
Pont-y-Mynach, but will be desirous of seeing the celebrated seat of the
late Mr. Johnes, at
Havod,
Which is about four miles distant. The mansion was built, and the estate
laid out in its present paradisaical state of loveliness, by the late Mr.
Johnes, of whom it has been truly said, he made the barren wilderness
around him to smile, and converted the worthless heath into waving woods,
luxuriant corn fields, and pastures. From October, 1795, to April, 1801,
Mr. Johnes planted more than 2,065,000 trees, besides a great number of
acres that he sowed with acorns. Since this period the plantations have
been extended on the same scale with equal spirit; from one to two
hundred thousand trees being planted every year.
The mansion is built of Portland stone, in a somewhat novel mode of
architecture, from designs by Mr. Baldwyn of Bath; it combines the
distinguishing features of the Moorish and Gothic styles, with turrets
and painted windows. It is situated near the banks of the river Ystwyth,
and beautifully environed by lofty hills, clothed with oak. The interior
of the house corresponds in elegance with the exterior.
A correct idea of the enchanting beauties of the scenery has been left on
record by the elegant pen of Mr. Cumberland:—“Havod is a place in itself
so pre-eminently beautiful, that it highly merits a particular
description. It stands surrounded with so many noble scenes, diversified
with elegance as well as with grandeur; the country on the approach to it
is so very wild and uncommon, and the place itself is now so embellished
by art, that it will be difficult, I believe, to point out a spot that
can be put in competition with it, considered either as the object of the
painter’s eye, the poet’s mind, or as a desirable residence for those
who, admirers of the beautiful wildness of nature, love also to inhale
the pure air of aspiring mountains, and enjoy that _santo pacé_, as the
Italians expressively term it, which arises from solitudes made social by
a family circle. From the portico it commands a woody, narrow, winding
vale; the undulating form of whose ascending shaggy sides are richly
clothed with various foliage, broken with silver waterfalls, and crowned
with climbing sheep-walks, reaching to the clouds. Neither are the
luxuries of life absent; for, on the margin of the Ystwyth, where it
flows broadest through this delicious vale, we see hothouses and a
conservatory; beneath the rocks, a bath; amid the recesses of the woods,
a flower-garden; and within the building, whose decorations, though rich,
are pure and simple, we find a mass of rare and valuable literature,
whose pages here seem doubly precious, where meditation finds scope to
range unmolested.
“In a word, so many are the delights afforded by the scenery of this
place and its vicinity, to a mind imbued with any taste, that the
impression on mine was increased after an interval of ten years from the
first visit, employed chiefly in travelling among the Alps, the
Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; along the shores of the
Adriatic, over the Glaciers of Switzerland, and up the Rhine; where,
though in search of beauty, I never, I feel, saw any thing so fine—never
so many pictures concentrated in one spot; so that, warmed by the renewal
of my acquaintance with them, I am irresistibly urged to attempt a
description of the hitherto almost virgin-haunts of these obscure
mountains.
“Wales, and its borders, both North and South, abound, at intervals, with
fine things: Piercefield has grounds of great magnificence, and wonderful
picturesque beauty; Downton Castle has a deliciously wooded vale, most
tastefully managed; Llangollen is brilliant; the banks of the Conway
savagely grand; Barmouth romantically rural; the great Pistyll-y-Rhaiadr
is horribly wild; Rhaiadr-y-Wennol gay, and gloriously irregular; each of
which merits a studied description. But at Havod and its neighbourhood,
I find the effects of all in one circle; united with this peculiarity,
the deep dingles, and mighty woody slopes, which, from a different
source, conduct the Rheidiol’s never-failing waters from Plinlimmon, and
the Mynach, are of an unique character, as mountainous forests,
accompanying gigantic size with graceful forms; and taken altogether, I
see ‘the sweetest interchange of hill and valley, rivers, woods and
plains, and falls, with forests crowned, rocks, dens, and caves,’
insomuch that it requires little enthusiasm there to feel forcibly with
Milton—
‘All things that be send up from earth’s great altar
Silent praise.’
“There are four fine walks from the house, chiefly through ways
artificially made by the proprietor; all dry, kept clean, and composed of
materials found on the spot; which is chiefly a coarse stone, of a
greyish cast, friable in many places, and like slate, but oftener
consisting of immense masses that cost the miner, in making some parts of
these walks, excessive labour; for there are places where it was
necessary to perforate the rock many yards, in order to pass a promontory
that, jutting across the way, denied further access; and to go round
which you must have taken a great tour, and made a fatiguing descent. As
it is, the walks are so conducted that few are steep; the transitions
easy, the returns commodious, and the branches distinct. Neither are
there too many; for much is left for future projectors; and if a man be
stout enough to range the underwoods, and fastidious enough to reject all
trodden paths, he may, almost every where, stroll from the studied line,
till he be glad to regain the friendly conduct of the well-known way.
Yet one must be nice, not to be content at first to visit the best points
of view by the general routine; for all that is here done has been to
remove obstructions, reduce the materials, and conceal the art; and we
are no where presented with attempts to force the untamed streams, or
indeed to invent any thing, where nature, the great mistress, has left
all art behind.”
To this lively delineation, we shall only add one sentence of the Rev.
Mr. Warner, who, after visiting this spot, remarks:—“The whole together
forms a scene so striking, that while wandering through its ever-changing
beauties, we felt no inclination to tax Mr. Cumberland with enthusiasm
when he declared that in ten years’ travelling through the Alps, the
Appennines, the Sabine hills, and the Tyrolese; the shores of the
Adriatic; the Glaciers of Switzerland; and the banks of the Rhine; he
never saw any thing so fine—never so many pictures concentrated in one
spot.”
The splendid library at Havod was adorned with a most valuable collection
of books and manuscripts, which Mr. Johnes had, at an immense expense,
brought together, many of which were unique and of the highest historical
importance, including those of Sir John Sebright’s collection, in the
Welsh language, together with some splendidly illuminated manuscripts of
Froissart. These, with several thousand volumes, comprising a complete
Don Quixote’s library, with other works of equal rarity, which cannot be
replaced, were unfortunately consumed by a fire which destroyed the
mansion on March 13, 1807. The origin of this calamity has never been
satisfactorily ascertained, neither is it possible to estimate, with any
approach to accuracy, the extent of the loss: it has been stated at
£70,000. However, Mr. Johnes determined to restore his mansion in the
best manner he could, and another collection of books was soon made,
founded by the Pesaro library, which Mr. Johnes had purchased in Italy,
and was on its way to Havod at the time when the fire occurred.
This highly esteemed, accomplished, and public-spirited gentleman
survived the destructive visitation about nine years, during which he was
engaged in promoting improvements on his estate. He died at Exeter, and
his mortal remains were interred in the family vault at the new church
built by himself within the precincts of Havod grounds. His widow
survived until October, 1833, when she also died at Exeter, and was
buried in the same tomb with her respected husband and their only
daughter, who died on the 24th July, 1811, in the 27th year of her age.
The family becoming extinct upon the death of the widow, the vault, after
her interment, was completely arched over.
The whole of the magnificent estate of Havod was put up to auction by Mr.
Robins, in the spring of 1831, and became the property of the Duke of
Newcastle, together with the timber, the splendid collection of books and
furniture, and the large cellar of choice wines, for which that nobleman
is said to have paid about £62,000. The noble duke expended a very large
sum in enlarging and improving, and became a most munificent benefactor
to the neighbourhood. In 1843, however, it was again submitted to the
hammer of Mr. Robins, but no sale was effected. The estate has since
been bought of His Grace by H. Bold Houghton, Esq. The purchase-money is
said to have been £150,000.
AMLWCH.
(_Anglesea_.)
Beaumaris 16
Holyhead 20
Llanerch-y-medd 6
Menai Bridge 18
This is a market town on the coast, chiefly supported by the copper
mines, with which the surrounding district abounds. About the year 1766,
Amlwch had not more than half-a-dozen houses in the whole parish, but now
it contains a population exceeding 6000. It has a capacious harbour, cut
out of the solid rock or slate, executed at the expense of the mining
companies, capable of admitting thirty vessels of 200 tons burthen, where
originally there was only a cleft or opening, too small to receive a
single vessel. There are large smelting works for copper erected near
the harbour, the property of the mining companies.
In conjunction with Beaumaris, Holyhead, and Llangefni, this town returns
one member to parliament. The church, consecrated in 1801, is an elegant
building, erected by the Parys mine company, at an expense of £4000. The
situation of Amlwch is most salubrious.
The immense treasures contained in the Parys mountain, which is in the
immediate vicinity of Amlwch, and to which the town owes its prosperity,
were unknown and lay neglected until about the year 1765, when one
Frazer, a Scotch miner, came in search of ores, and gave encouragement to
other adventurers. Though he discovered copper ore by sinking shafts in
the mountain, he was discouraged from proceeding by the influx of water.
Sir N. Bailey, grandfather of the Marquis of Anglesea, who had leased the
lead mines at Penrhyn-dû, in Caernarvonshire, to the Macclesfield
company, bound them to make a spirited effort to work the Parys mine.
This they did, but with so little success, that after some time they sent
positive orders to the agent to discontinue his operations, and discharge
the miners. The agent, however, fortunately disobeyed the injunction;
and as a last attempt, collected all his mining force to one spot, where
he sunk a shaft, and within seven feet of the surface discovered a body
of ore which was worked with great success for many years. This happened
on the 2d of March, 1768, whence St. Chad has ever since been a venerated
patron of the Anglesea miners.
In the Parys mountain are two mines: of these, that upon the eastern side
is called the Mona mine, the entire property of the Marquis of Anglesea,
who works it, and also the smelting house at Amlwch. The Parys mine is
the joint property of the Marquis of Anglesea and Lord Dinorben, and is
now worked by a company. The stranger, in order to see the mines to
advantage, should first furnish himself with a guide, to avoid danger,
and follow the steps of Mr. Bingley, who thus describes his efforts to
gratify his curiosity:—“Having ascended to the top, I found myself
standing on the verge of a vast and tremendous chasm. I stept on one of
the stages suspended over the edge of the steep, and the prospect was
dreadful. The number of caverns at different heights along the sides;
the broken and irregular masses of rock which everywhere presented
themselves; the multitudes of men at work in different parts, and
apparently in the most perilous situations; the motions of the whimsies,
and the raising and lowering of the buckets, to draw out the ore and
rubbish; the noise of picking the ore from the rock, and of hammering the
wadding when it was about to be blasted; with, at intervals, the roaring
of the blasts in different parts of the mine—altogether excited the most
sublime ideas, intermixed, however, with sensations of terror.
“I left this situation, and followed the road that leads into the mine;
and the moment I entered my astonishment was again excited. The shagged
arches and overhanging rocks, which seemed to threaten annihilation to
any one daring enough to approach them, fixed me almost motionless to the
spot. The roofs of the work, having in many places fallen in, have left
some of the rudest scenes that the imagination can paint; these, with the
sulphureous fumes from the kilns in which the ore is roasted, gave it to
me a perfect counterpart to Virgil’s entrance into Tartarus. To look up
from hence and observe the people on the stages, a hundred and fifty feet
above one’s head; to see the immense number of ropes and buckets, most of
them in motion; and to reflect that a single stone, casually thrown from
above, or falling from a bucket, might in a moment destroy a
fellow-creature—a man must have a strong mind not to feel impressed with
most unpleasant sensations.”
The mines are still prolific in their production of copper ore, and
afford a great revenue to their proprietors.—There are also alum works,
and a green vitriol manufactory in the neighbourhood of these mines. The
principal inns at Amlwch are Ty Mawr and the Castle. About four miles
distant is Llysdulas, the hospitable seat of Col. Hughes, brother to Lord
Dinorben.
BALA,
(_Merionethshire_.)
Corwen 12
Dinas Mowddwy 18
Dolgellau 17
Ffestiniog 19
London 207
Mawr Twrog 22
Bala, or the Outlet of the Lake, is a small neat town consisting of one
long street, with two or three others crossing at right angles, and a
population of about 2500. There are two good inns here, the White Lion
and the Bull’s Head, the former being an excellent posting house. This
town is noted for its trade in woollen stockings, woollen comfortables,
and Welsh wigs. Mr. Pennant remarks, that in his time, on a Saturday,
their market-day, from two to five hundred pounds worth of these goods
were disposed of; but this staple appears to have greatly decreased since
that period. Still, however, knitting is here an almost universal
employment; and whether you walk in the town, or the country around, you
will scarcely ever meet a female unemployed, even while they carry water,
or other burdens upon their heads.
Near the south-east end of the town is a high artificial mount, called
Tommen-y-Bala, supposed to be of Roman construction: in the summer time
it is usually covered, in a picturesque manner, with knitters of all
ages. From the summit there is it fine view of Llyn Tegid and the
adjacent mountains, which present a particularly grand and majestic
aspect in this vicinity, successfully rivalling the glories of Snowdonia.
The quarter sessions for the county are held here; and also the spring
assizes. The town-hall is a plain building, standing in the principal
street. A chapel-of-ease was erected in 1811 by subscription: it is a
plain structure, with a low tower, surmounted by a spire. The parish
church is situate at Llanycil, about a mile from the town: the service is
performed there in the morning, and at Bala in the afternoon. The Rev.
Thomas Charles, Calvinistic Methodist, the founder of the Bible Society,
resided here. He was a great promoter of education and Sunday schools
amongst his countrymen; and compiled a Welsh biblical dictionary in four
volumes.
Bala Lake,
Llyn Tegid, or Pimblemere, (for this pool has these various names) is
within a quarter of a mile south of the town, and is a fine expanse of
water, with well-cultivated, sloping boundaries, clothed in many parts
with verdant woods.
Bala and it fine lake (says Mr. Roscoe in his “Wanderings through North
Wales,”) have attractions peculiar to themselves. To appreciate them as
they deserve, the traveller should first ascend the craggy summit of the
neighbouring mountain, and gaze upon the rude glens beyond, through which
the boisterous Twrch rushes in a succession of resounding falls. It is
by contrasting the wilder and fiercer tracts of the landscape, with its
milder features round the quiet hamlet and lake, that we add fresh zest
to the interchange of feelings ever open to the Cambrian traveller. Bala
lake is the most extensive in Wales, being nearly four miles in length,
and three quarters of one in breadth, its banks consequently embracing a
circuit of about nine miles. Its greatest depth is forty feet; and the
water is said to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect
scarcely any foreign admixture.
Be this as it may, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, trout, eels,
and roach, with shoals of a fish called gwyniad, so named from the
extreme whiteness of its scales. It is a gregarious fish, often found in
the Alpine lakes, more especially those of Switzerland, and dies soon
after it is taken. Its weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its
flavour is by many persons considered rather insipid; a circumstance that
by no means recommends the gallantry of the late Lord Lyttelton, when he
assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to more than
rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala themselves. But,
being so very good, and like the ladies of Bala, perhaps, sensible of
their attractions, these fish have the shrewdness to keep out of harm’s
way, as we are told, by remaining at the bottom of the water, where they
feed on small shells and aquatic plants, from which scarcely any bait
will induce them to emerge; they are, therefore, principally taken by
nets. The angler may always be certain that, while a cloud rests on
Aran, he may save himself the trouble of fishing in the lake. In former
times the fishery is stated to have formed part of the possessions
attached to Basingwerk Abbey, but has since fallen into the hands of Sir
Watkin Williams Wynn, who has pitched his tent, in the shape of a neat
sporting-box, quite according to the Irish rule, ‘convanient to the
spot.’
Though now so calm and beautiful,—reflecting all the quiet and clearness
of the heavens upon its breast, as the swallow skimmed its glassy
surface, and the wild-fowl sought their home in its little bays and
creeks,—the aspect of Bala Lake, when the storm is up, and ‘the winter
wild’ puts on his terrors, can assume a very different kind of beauty.
To see it when the autumnal winds ruffle its broad expanse with billows,
or the clouds discharge their contents as fiercely as the torrent from
the hills,—when the drifting rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves
of the year with the scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the
observer can no longer recognise the least resemblance in the
characteristics of the two landscapes, the Bala of the opposite seasons.
Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet above its
usual level. When the winds and the rains, as I was informed, ‘meet and
combine the whole of their forces,’ it is a grand sight to see the lake
overshoot its banks, and rush beyond into the valley of old Edeirnion.
Once, in the month of June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is believed to
have been inundated by one of those singular occurrences, the bursting of
an overcharged cloud, called a water-spout, which, however frequently
beheld at sea, seldom visits the land. It was attended by terrific
lightning and continuous rain, which caused the Twrch—fed by torrents
from the Bwlch-y-Groes hills—to overflow and sweep every thing before it.
The spoils of fields and villages, and even human life, marked the
progress of the flood; and as far as Corwen the rising of the rivers
suddenly burst on the ear of the affrighted people. The scene round Bala
is recorded by the old inhabitants as heart-rending and terrific. The
deep and dismal chasm, spanned by the one-arched bridge through which the
stream of the llyn pours its flood down the wildest rocky falls,
exhibited a magnificent sight, swelled by the mountain rains into one
immense volume of foaming cataract, which again bursting from its black
and caverned bed through the wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual mass
of burdened torrents to join the waters of the Twrch. Along the course
of the Dee, huge branches, and some of the large forest-trees themselves,
which threw a gloomier shadow over the stormy scene, were uprooted by the
maddening storm and launched into the yawning flood. The lake rose with
the impulse of the storm, till it assumed the aspect of a wild and
restless sea, keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring
woods and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of the
torrent, the thunder, ever and anon, startled the ear, and occasional
flashes illuminating the sky exhibited for a moment the lurid and
dreadful scene to view.
Bala is an excellent station for anglers, who are sure of good sport, and
a delightful ramble on the banks of the lake.
The River Dee.
The name of the wizard stream is thought to have been derived from the
Welsh word Dwfr-Dwy, that is, the waters of the two rivers. Some
centuries ago the Dee was held in superstitious veneration by the
inhabitants of the country, from what were then believed the miraculous
overflowing of its banks at times when there had been no preceding heavy
rains: and from its being believed to have foretold some remarkable
events by changing its channel. History informs us, that when the
Britons, drawn up in battle-array on its banks, had been prepared to
engage with their Saxon foes, it was their custom first to kiss the
earth, and then for every soldier to drink a small quantity of the water.
The name is certainly not derived, as many have supposed, from _dû_,
black; for, except when tinged by the torrents from the mountain
morasses, its waters are perfectly bright and transparent. In Spenser’s
description of Caer Gai, the dwelling of old Timon, foster-father of
Arthur, the colour of the Dee is considered very different from black:
“Lowe in a valley green.
Under the foot of Rawran mossie o’er,
From whence the river Dee, as _silver clene_.
His tempting billows roll with gentle roar.”
That lover of the marvellous, Giraldus Cambrensis, informs as very
gravely, that the river Dee runs through Bala lake, and is discharged at
the bridge near the town without their waters becoming mixed. He,
doubtless, means to say, that the river might be traced by its appearance
from one end of the lake to the other. Giraldus has the reputation of
being very credulous.
The Dee, descending from Bala lake, passes under a small bridge, at the
opposite end of which it enters, and from which the channel of the river
is formed. It then winds along the beautiful vale of Corwen, about four
miles below which it washes the eastern side of Denbighshire, and passing
the bridge at Llangollen, it very soon forms the boundary division
between England and Wales. Its chief tributaries are the Alwen, which
has its rise in one of the lakes on the western part of the county; the
Ceiriog, which descends from the slate mountains near Chirk; the
Clywedog, which it receives below Bangor Is-y-coed; and the Alun, which
rises in the mountains about Llandegla. It flows northward to Chester,
Flintshire, and the Irish sea.
Close to Bala, on the Corwen road, is Rhiwlas, the seat of R. W. Price,
Esq.: the house is situated on an eminence, in the midst of extensive
grounds, and forms an interesting object, being profusely decorated with
an evergreen, which likewise adorns the lodge-gates. A considerable
stream, called the Tryweryn, which runs through the domain, adds much to
the general beauty of this pretty retreat.
BANGOR.
(_Caernarvonshire_.)
Abergele 27
Beaumaris, by the bridge 6½
Caernarvon 9
Capel Curig 14½
Conway 14½
Holyhead 24
London, by Chester 251
— by Shrewsbury 237
Plas Newydd 5
Penmaen Mawr 8½
Bangor, (from ban côr, the high and beautiful choir,) is a small but
neatly built town, and the most ancient see in the Principality. Its
present population, 7232. It has been much improved within the last few
years, especially since the erection of the Menai Bridge, which has
attracted numerous visitors anxious to see one of the finest works of
human skill, though still inconsiderable in comparison with its
importance in ancient times, when it was denominated Bangor Vawr, or the
Great Bangor, probably to distinguish it from Bangor Is-y-coed in
Flintshire. The town is delightfully situated in a sheltered vale,
between two high ridges of slate rock, at the mouth of the Menai Straits,
of which it commands a beautiful prospect.
Bangor and its environs have the advantage of an almost inexhaustible
diversity of walks, rides, and sea excursions; and in addition to these
highly interesting facilities, several new roads and path-ways have
recently been completed and generously thrown open to the public by the
spirited proprietors of the Pen’r-allt estate, who disposed of that
valuable property to various persons, for the erection of villas,
ornamental marine residences, lodging houses, and public baths.
Garth-point, the eastern extremity of the Pen’r-allt property, a short
distance from the city, where a ferry crosses to the Anglesea shore, is
unrivalled for the sublimity, picturesque beauty, and variety of its
surrounding objects, consisting of an immense expanse of seas, mountains,
lowlands, and plantations. To the left, on the Anglesea coast, are seen
an extensive sloping wood and a pretty marine cottage, forming part of
the domain of Baron Hill, the splendid mansion of Sir R. B. W. Bulkeley,
Bart. M.P.; the town, castle, church, and bay of Beaumaris; and about
five miles further, to the north-east, Puffin or Priestholm Island, with
its tower and semaphore. To the right, on the Caernarvonshire coast, the
majestic promontory of Great Orme’s Head (abounding with copper ore)
stands boldly forward, apparently isolated, its rugged front protruding
like a rocky fortress into the sea, to guard the entrance to the Menai
Straits; Little Orme’s Head, Conway Bay, Penmaen Bâch, Pen-dyffryn, the
residence of Sir Chas. Smith; Penmaen Mawr, Bryn-y-neuadd, the seat of
John Wynne, Esq.; Prince Llywelyn’s Tower, the Pass, village and church
of Aber, the property of Sir Richard Bulkeley. To the south-east of
which appear, in pre-eminent height and grandeur, the cloud-capt Carnedd
Llywelyn and Carnedd Dafydd, in “Snowdon’s Alpine range;” Penrhyn Castle,
the superb mansion of the Hon. Col. Douglas Pennant, M.P.; Port Penrhyn
with its numerous shipping; the spacious Penrhyn Arms Inn and pleasure
grounds; Hirael quay and shore; forming altogether, in one expansive
view, a glorious panorama of at least thirty miles in circuit.
At the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, a commodious harbour has
been formed, called Port Penrhyn, which is capable of admitting and
securing vessels of three hundred tons burden. The quay is upwards of
three hundred yards long, and an immense tonnage of slates brought by
railway from the quarries about six miles distant, is thence shipped to
all parts of the world. A neat stone bridge over the river Cegid
connects the quay with the city. The market at Bangor is held on Friday.
There are several excellent inns, where the traveller will find the best
accommodations, as well as post-chaises and cars, with “good horses and
careful drivers.” The Penrhyn Arms Hotel, a short distance from the
town, is really a princely establishment, on an extensive and admirable
scale of management. The Castle, Liverpool Arms, and Royal Oak inns,
have also a good reputation.
The following extract from Dr. Johnson’s diary, when he visited this city
in 1774, in company with Mr. and Mrs. Thrale, will exhibit the progress
of improvement at Bangor in a very advantageous point of light:—“At
evening (says he) the moon shone eminently bright, and our thoughts of
danger (on passing Penmaen Mawr) being now past, the rest of our journey
was very pleasant. At an hour somewhat late, we came to Bangor, where we
found _a very mean inn_, _and had some difficulty of obtaining a
lodging_. _I lay in a room where the other bed had two men_.” What a
contrast to the splendid accommodation now obtainable by tourists at this
popular watering-place! Within the last twenty years, the population has
been quadrupled, almost all the town built or rebuilt, all the old roads
altered or widened, and new ones formed in the direction of London and
Holyhead.
The facilities for travelling are abundant:—In summer there are
steam-packets everyday to and from Liverpool; and in winter, two or three
every week. The London mail passes through Bangor each way every day,
also the Chester and Liverpool mail; and besides these, there are daily
coaches to London, Chester, Liverpool, Caernarvon, Pwllheli, and
Barmouth.
Three banks have been recently established at Bangor, one of which is a
branch of the Chester bank of Messrs. Williams and Co., at the Cottage,
the bottom of Waterloo-street; another, a branch of the North and South
Wales bank, in High-street, nearly opposite the Market-place; and the
third, a branch of the National Provincial, in the same street. By the
Reform Act, Bangor was made a contributory borough in returning a member
of parliament for Caernarvon; W. B. Hughes, Esq. is the present member.