_Wednesday, August 9._--Went with M. Farel over the Carmes, the scene

of the massacre of 175 priests on September 2, 1792, among whom were

the Archbishop of Arles, and the Bishop of Saintes. The Supérieur

conducted us over the house and garden; he showed us the room in which

the revolutionary tribunal sat; the passage through which the victims

were hurried to be dispatched; and at the bottom of the garden the

orangery, now a chapel, into which they fled, and which retains

on its floor, and on the seat which runs along its inner wall,

numerous traces of blood. There is, especially, the mark of a head on

the bench, where the crown of hair is still visible, which must have

been dripping with blood to have left such a trace. No spot in Paris

has such interest for me as this: none is so glorious to the Church of

France: none carries such an omen of future triumphs. Between this

orangery and the house is a small circular piece of water, on the edge

of which several likewise were massacred. In a small vaulted chamber,

up stairs, are the marks of three rapiers against the wall, which the

assassins, sleeping there at night, seem to have put to stand there,

dropping with blood. And in this very room Madame Tallien, the Empress

Josephine, and the Duchess D'Aiguillon were confined seventeen days,

as appears by an inscription in pencil on the wall, asking how long

liberty should be a vain name, and signed "Citoyenne Tallien,

Josephine Beauharnais, D'Aiguillon." Even here the reminiscences of

this house do not stop;--in the garret many of the Girondins were

confined, and the walls are covered with their indignant remarks; many

from the Latin poets, in heathen style,--some written in pencil, some

in their blood. It is a curious contrast, as one turns away from this

chamber, to see over another door one of the old inscriptions of the

Carmelites remaining:--"Quod delectat, momentum est: quod

cruciat, æternum est." It is, as the late archbishop said, "le monde

Païen, and le monde Chrétien, vis-à-vis." He had purchased this house

as a place for the encouragement of the higher studies of theology

among the clergy; the design was not completed at his death, but there

are about forty here, of whom twelve are masters. He has added another

to the noble band of martyrs, the unequalled patrimony of this

building: his heart has just been carried to the chapel, where we saw

it in a glass case. Surely neither their blood, nor his, has been shed

in vain. He seems to me worthy to rank with the Archbishop of Arles,

who, when his name was called out by the murderers, stepped forth from

amid the priests seeking to shelter him, and said, "C'est moi. Je suis

celui que vous cherchez." He was struck down and massacred. The same

power enabled the late archbishop, not a man careless of his life, nor

of great physical courage, to present himself fearlessly among enraged

combatants, and when suffering extreme tortures from his wound not

even once to ask his physician for aid. If ever any sacrifice was

voluntary, it was his: and this notion of making expiation with his

blood for his flock seems to have given him supernatural force.

The Abbé des Billiers had got me a ticket for the distribution of

prizes at the Institution des Aveugles. The crowns and books

were almost as numerous as at the petit séminaire: here, however, the

ceremony had an especial interest, as all the scholars had to surmount

exceeding obstacles arising from their loss of sight. There were,

notwithstanding, a great number of subjects for which prizes were

given; and the whole was terminated by a concert, in which the boys

and girls were performers. Music is one of the things in which they

most excel, and the source, doubtless, to them of peculiar

enjoyment--the sensations it excites may replace to them, in some

degree which we cannot imagine, the loss of sight. This spectacle,

however, is not without pain, as well as interest, to the beholders,

as I experienced in going over the house itself a few days ago.

_Thursday, August 10._--M. Farel took me to the Dames de la

Visitation, Rue d'Enfer. As they are cloitrées, we could not see their

house, but we conversed a little with the Supérieure. M. Farel said

smilingly to her that they looked to the prayers and intercessions of

the visitandines for the maintenance of public tranquillity; and when

the affairs of the Church did not go well, it was because the

visitandines did not do their duty. Vraiment, the Supérieure replied,

not displeased at the remark; and then she sent for four English

sisters, with whom I had a long talk. Three of these English sisters

had been converted, one, eight years ago, from a state of utter

unbelief; the other two, six and three years ago, being members of the

Church of England. The fourth was born a Catholic. None had any

distinct idea of the Church of England. They all expressed themselves

delighted with their condition. There are several months of trial

before admission to the noviciate, which lasts at least a year and a

day, after which they may take the final vows. They told me it not

unfrequently happened that persons wishing to remain, and having

apparently all the dispositions suitable for the religious life, were

refused by the superiors, but that their judgment had never been known

to have been deceived in those whom they accepted: a special light was

given them to that end. The primary object of their order was prayer

and intercession, and they received among them persons labouring under

various bodily infirmities, who would not be accepted elsewhere; their

rule was not severe as to bodily austerities. Their founder,

S. François de Sales, had assured them that the number of infirm

persons they admitted would never be so large as to diminish the

efficacy of the order. They likewise had schools attached to their

houses; but no nun was occupied more than two hours a-day in school.

They have about 180 houses--one in England, at Westbury, near Bristol;

some in the United States. The number in each house was thirty-three,

but in the great towns they passed this number. Before the

events of February they had sixty pupils. I observed that the not

knowing or not considering the careful attention paid to the subject

of _vocation_ was the cause of many prejudices in England against the

religious orders. One of the four, a novice, said, when she came to

visit her sister, before her conversion, she had the greatest dread of

entering the house, but she had found it quite different from what she

expected. We had a great deal of conversation about late conversions,

that of Mr. Newman especially. I said, Roman Catholics in England

seemed to me to commit a great fault, and especially converts. The

moment they had left us, it seemed their object to depreciate to the

utmost the Church of England; instead of allowing what we undoubtedly

possessed, and pointing out with charity and kindness the particulars

in which they presume us to be deficient, they delight to condemn us

en masse, in the most harsh and insulting manner. I noticed the Tablet

as instinct with this spirit; and when this came from men who for

years had been fighting on our side, it was the more offensive. It was

in strong contrast with the charity and kindness one met with in Roman

Catholics abroad.

Called on Lady ----, who had asked me to dine with her to-morrow. She

spoke to me seriously on a subject which, she said, had been much upon

her mind. Living for a long time among Roman Catholics, she had

come to the knowledge of a vast number of answers to prayer addressed

through the Blessed Virgin to God. Without rejecting evidence which on

any other subject she should admit to be conclusive, she could not

refuse her belief to the efficacy of these prayers, and yet her whole

mind revolted from addressing an invocation to the Blessed Virgin.

Moreover, she believed that, in the minds of the ignorant and

superstitious in the Roman Communion, the Blessed Virgin was an

obstacle to their approaching God,--they stopped with her. And yet

these prayers were undoubtedly answered. Did God then vouchsafe a

reply to the love which evidently dictated these prayers? To her

Protestantism seemed to have called forth the manly virtues,

independence and self-possession; whereas Catholicism developed itself

in far greater tenderness of spirit and affection. She showed me a

passage from Padre Ventura, strongly setting forth the paternity of

God the Father and the maternity of the Blessed Virgin in parallelism,

and compassionating those who held either without the other. But to

Protestants the Blessed Virgin was a merely historical being, having

no present existence; they did not mean to dishonour her, but they

simply never thought about her.

I said it appeared to me that the Intercession of the Saints for the

Church on earth and its particular members could not but be an

essential part of the Communion of Saints, and this once being

granted, the pre-eminent position of the Blessed Virgin accounted for

the effects wrought by her intercession; that those who had carried

her power to the highest yet made it a simply intercessory power.

"Monstra te esse matrem" was the highest exhibition of her authority.

When the mind comes to reflect upon her, and the position she holds,

so unapproachable by any other creature, it can hardly fail to come to

these results. The greater tenderness and devotion of spirit

discernible among Roman Catholics must be on account of their so

vividly realising the Communion of Saints, and this specially in the

case of the Blessed Virgin. We must not reason from the ignorant and

superstitious members of the Roman Church, any more than from the

apathy and utter deadness of heart and irreverence apparent in so many

of our own people. The cultus of the saints may be idolatry to those

who do not realise the ineffably higher office of our Lord. I can

conceive their asking, What good can the bones of dead men do? But

when the reality of Christ's presence in the tabernacles of their

flesh is felt, I could not see how the grace and glory bestowed by the

Head upon his members detracted from Himself, as the source and giver

of it. The Communion of Saints, therefore, would account for the

answers given to prayers for the intercession of the Blessed Virgin.

But how could the Saints know of the prayers made to them? I said I

saw no difficulty in the view of divines, that those who enjoyed

the vision of God, beheld in Him the needs and requests of their

brethren in the flesh.

Lady ---- has an odd notion of the soul slumbering till the

Resurrection, which, I said, she must allow me to say, was simply

false doctrine.

I took leave of M. Bonnetty afterwards. M. Farel took me to the

establishment of S. Nicolas, for the education of orphan and other

children, and their apprenticing to various trades, Rue Vaugirard, 98.

This has been set on foot and conducted for about twenty years by

Monsignor de Bervanger. He has collected out of the streets of Paris a

thousand gamins, whom he receives at a small pension--twenty francs a

month for orphans, twenty-five for other children; lodges, boards,

instructs, and teaches them a vast number of trades. Of these he has

even at present seven hundred: but the Revolution of February has cost

him a diminution of three hundred. Five hundred of the garde mobile,

who lately saved Paris, have been brought up by him. He observes that

the difficulty for children destined to live by manual labour is how

to join elementary studies, especially that of religion, with their

apprenticeship to a trade. Without religion a workman does not find in

all his life rule for his conduct, consolation in his toils, or hope

for the future. Thus establishments uniting these advantages answer a

deep need of society, and this has been the chief aim of the

Œuvre de S. Nicolas since its institution in 1827, _i.e._, to

succour orphans, to give them a love of virtue and labour, and prepare

them, by the practice of religious duties, to become not merely good

workmen, but good Christians. For this purpose an hour and a quarter

is given every day, except Thursday, to the study and explanation of

the Catechism, the Gospel, and Sacred History. The pupils are arranged

in fourteen divisions, according to their age and intelligence. They

are taught by priests approved by the archbishop--these are ever among

them, not only in their work and studies, but at their recreations,

instructing them to be content with the position assigned to them by

Providence, and to bless Him amid the most painful toils and

privations, out of regard to an eternal recompense--sentiments which

the example of these priests in surrendering themselves to so

charitable and self-denying a life must be very powerful in inspiring.

The children are specially instructed and prepared for their first

communion and confirmation.

The establishment has within it twenty-five ateliers for pupils whose

parents or guardians desire to leave their children till the end of

their apprenticeship; for the children only attend these workshops on

an express request. Care will be taken to put to good Christian

masters the children not able to profit by this advantage. A

great number of those brought up here are already set at the head of

these workshops. Their younger brethren will find with them the same

religious usages, and as it were the same family.

They are occupied in these workshops eight and a half hours a day.

They have a class two hours every day, except their friends desire

them to pass this time in the workshop, to perfect themselves in their

employment. If their work should be suspended, they attend the classes.

The apprenticeship lasts two, three, or four years, according to the

trade. When finished they may remain in the establishment; and what

they earn beyond their maintenance may be deposited in a savings'

bank. The parents can select for their children what trade they like,

after considering their tastes, physical powers, and intelligence.

Though these workshops are an increase of charge to the establishment,

yet, as it does not seek to make a pecuniary speculation, the payment

for the children in them is no larger than for the youngest, though

their board is more expensive. Moreover, those who work require a

larger amount of food.

All the earnings of the apprentices belong to the masters of the

workshops, who have thus an interest in their progress, and in

conforming themselves to the rules of the house, from which they are

liable to be dismissed. On their side, they provide the tools.

They have no power to inflict punishments, but report to the brethren.

The studies comprehend reading, writing, arithmetic, and orthography;

the elements of French grammar, geography, and history; analysis of

grammar and logic; book-keeping, linear-drawing, practical geometry,

vocal music, the most complete instrumental music, gymnastics, and

swimming; such primary instructions in natural philosophy, chemistry,

and natural history, as are applicable to daily life; mensuration and

horticulture.

The children do not remain in study more than two hours and a half

following, nor occupied on the same subject more than from half an

hour to an hour and a half. Those not in the workshops have eight

hours of class and study, excepting the youngest, who have only six,

as they rise later. Each class has from fifty to seventy scholars at

most.

There is a small examination several times a year.

The food is prepared by sisters of charity. It is wholesome and

plentiful, and shared by the masters. There is breakfast, dinner, and

supper, besides the goûter.

Sisters of charity take charge of the infirmary, kitchens, refectory,

linen, and washing: "they know that all holiness which isolates us

from those who have need of our assistance is false."

Most careful provision is made for the cleanliness of the

children. Warm water is supplied in winter; baths at all times. Every

child is supplied yearly with a pair of summer and winter pantaloons

new; those of the year preceding become every day's clothing.

House-work, in which the brethren have aid from the children out of

class time, is paid to them. Long experience shows how much better for

the children this is than when it is made a punishment. Moreover, some

children have such need of motion, that great harm may be done them if

it be refused them.

"All which appears low to the eyes of men, is an object of emulation

among _religious_, whose vocation aims at the most perfect conformity

with the counsels and example of our divine Saviour. Like Him, they

dare to touch the Leper banished from man's society; like Him, they

despise Pharisaic censure. They would deem themselves unworthy to

belong in so privileged a manner to the service of a crucified God, if

their heart was under the influence of human opinion, if regards even

to their health, which a sensitive conscience often shows them to be

superfluous, could arrest them in the accomplishment of their labours."

The brethren sleep in the dormitories among the children. One of them

invariable keeps watch in these dormitories, which are lighted. The

most careful and rigorous surveillance is exercised. The eldest rise at

5½; the youngest at 7. In winter they go to bed at 8; in summer at 8¾.

Good marks are given to the children, which three times a year are

exchanged for books, &c. Marks of conduct, work, and application, for

each week, are hung up in the parloir. So likewise the places obtained

in the compositions of the week; and the notes of three months, which

are sent to friends. Pupils who constantly maintain themselves on the

table of good conduct for three months are entitled to a reward. There

is a solemn distribution of prizes every year before the short

vacation, on the Sunday following 15th of August.

Extraordinary recreations are provided at times; as in summer a long

promenade, in which the pupils take with them a day's provisions.

During the recreations of each day, the brethren make themselves

children with their pupils, authority disguising itself under the

shape of affection. This is the most favourable moment for studying

character. They endeavour to gain the confidence of those in whom they

have observed bad dispositions by employing the most attractive means

of religion, and they have often the consolation of making them

teachable and happy.

It is a great point to occupy the children during their recreation,

and so to brace the body by exercise, that their nights may be sound

and their health good.

Parents can see their children any day, but only at play time,

and when they are not in disgrace. They cannot take their children out

but on a few particular days.

Punishments are inflicted as sparingly as possible. No master may

strike a child.

Children are received from eight to twelve years old. Those under ten

are sent in general to the Maison succursale, at Issy. Twenty francs'

entrance are paid besides the pension. The number is limited to 1000.

We had first an interview with Monsignor de Bervanger, the founder of

this work, to whom, I should think, it must supply perpetual

occupation. He sent a most pleasing boy round with us to the different

parts of the establishment. In many of the various ateliers work has

been suspended; this is an effect of the revolution: in many we saw

the pupils at work under their 'chef.' They reach such perfection in

their work, as to obtain an easy sale for it, and to gain their

subsistence. A large number were playing in high spirits. The premises

are necessarily of great extent, and certainly it is a bold and

immense experiment, and most interesting. It is not the least

astonishing that Monsignor de Bervanger set it on foot without private

funds: but its maintenance involves a large degree of ever active

charity, both in the brothers of S. Nicolas, who teach these boys,

that would otherwise be the refuse of Paris, and who eat and

sleep in the midst of them, and in the Sisters of Charity, by whom the

kitchen, infirmary, refectory, &c. are served. Thus without the

'celibat' in both sexes, this and every other work of high charity

falls to the ground. Not only on the score of expense would it be

impossible to conduct such a house without the aid of those who

disregard money altogether as a remuneration; not only would it be

difficult to find so total a surrender of time and of the whole man in

any who had household ties to bind them: but as certain devils cannot

be cast out "save by prayer and fasting," so there would seem to be a

like proportion of means to end in particular applications of the

Cross's healing power. It would appear to be a necessary condition for

the restoration of the suffering masses of society, that the highest

blessing of the natural man--family life--should be voluntarily

surrendered by those who are to be God's instruments in this special

work. They who are seen amid the toil and sweat of every day's task to

be living a supernatural life of charity,--they, and they alone, can

gain the affection of the world's outcasts, and lighten the burden of

the Cross which they have first themselves so borne. As I went over

this house, and saw its inmates, I comprehended in some faint degree

the amount of charity which such a life must require. The musical

service, performed by these children themselves on Sunday, is

described as very well done, and very interesting. Many of their

friends come to hear. I thought their chapel confined for so large a

number.

A little book which Monsignor de Bervanger gave us contains a pretty

full account of this institution, from which I have taken many

particulars given above. He observed that an Englishman not long

before had paid them several visits. He was most struck by the terms

of intimacy in which the masters lived with the pupils. This has also

struck me pointedly wherever I have seen educational institutions in

France. There the wall of separation does not seem to exist, which

shuts out the English tutor or master from the real state of his

pupil's mind, from his prevailing habits, and natural tone of thought.

With us, the boy before his master, and the boy by himself or with his

schoolfellows, are two beings wholly distinct. Seldom, indeed, can the

tutor get at the real living soul with whom he has to deal; still

seldomer mould and direct the development of his moral powers. It is,

to the best of my belief, a _generic_ difference between Anglican and

Roman Catholic education.

As we were walking home, M. Farel told me that in the diocese of

Langres alone there were five hundred institutions of Sisters of

Charity. "Do you not mean," I said, "five hundred Sisters?" "No," he

replied; "not a commune is without them." I asked to how many

several parent houses they might belong: he said, to about five. Thus

the Sisters of S. Vincent de Paul only form a portion of those

dedicated to this work.

_Friday, Aug. 11._--I copied the rest of the account of the cure

which happened to the novice at the Rue du Bac. The Sisters asked me

if I had seen the child who was cured of blindness. I said I had, and

that she seemed to me of very limited intelligence, and extremely

simple. One of them answered, "Yes; I asked her what she thought when

she recovered her sight, to which she replied, 'C'était drôle à

voir.'" While I was sitting among a number of the Sisters of Charity

transcribing the account, their great cheerfulness--one might almost

call it merriment--of tone was remarkable; they were those engaged in

the general management of the house at the Secrétariat. There is

something too in their faces which indicates inward peace. They look

happy. I took the opportunity of reading the pastoral letter of the

Abbé Etienne, their superior general, in which the account of the

cures was contained. It was written to encourage them amid the

unsettled state of public affairs. He reminded them that the

Revolution of 1830 opened with a much more threatening aspect towards

religion; and yet the period of eighteen years which they had since

passed through had been one of unexampled progress and prosperity to

their Institution. The times in which their founder S. Vincent

de Paul lived were likewise most unsettled, but he only saw in that a

larger opportunity for charitable exertions; he had promised his

children, that so long as they were faithful to their rules the Divine

protection should never fail them, and God had, beyond doubt, granted

these two miraculous cures to the intercessions of S. Vincent at the

opening of another momentous crisis to assure them that their Saint

had not lost his power with God. He felt the greatest confidence in

their zeal and charity and spirit of union, which made his own task

light. Before leaving the house I visited their chapel again, which

has to me a peculiar interest, on account of what is said to have

taken place there.

Journal in France in 1845 and 1848 with Letters from Italy in 1847 Of Things and Persons Concerning the Church and Education · 第 17 / 27 段