_Friday, August 4._--Called on M. ----, who had promised to take me

to the Assemblée Nationale. He said the Père Lacordaire had completely

failed in the Assembly: first he had taken his seat on the

Mountain, shaking hands with the most advanced of that party; then he

spoke for the first time, in defence of Ledru Rollin, to the

consternation of his friends: and, lastly, he seemed quite bereaved of

his usual eloquence, uttered nothing but trivialities, and was at a

loss for words. All this he conceived had deeply wounded him, and he

had resigned his seat to the great disgust of his constituents, who

had been pained first at the line he took, and then by his retirement.

He was always eccentric, and took a course of his own: he had

professed that his seat in the Assembly was incompatible with a

religious life, but he did not live here en communauté, but alone, and

was engaged with M. Ozanam and others on a journal, the Ère Nouvelle,

which was in the highest degree a political life. But he liked to be

unlike other people. Padre Ventura, in his funeral oration on

O'Connell, had ascribed R. C. Emancipation to the fear of England; so

Le Père Lacordaire lauded the Duke of Wellington and Sir R. Peel to

the skies for granting it, in his funeral oration of last February, to

the great disgust of the Irish, John O'Connell, and the rest, who were

present.--It was no easy matter to get into the Assembly: I was an

hour waiting, after sending in my name to the Comte de Montalembert,

and then the Tribune was full, and it was near another hour before I

got in. The Chamber is an immense room, in the form of a horse

shoe, at the bottom of which is the Tribune, and behind it the seat of

the President, and sundry officers; while the benches of the

representatives are ranged eleven deep, one above another, round the

other three sides. The speakers were heard very plainly, though I was

at the very furthest point from them: strangers sit in galleries at

some height above the members, on both sides and at the bottom. When

there is agitation, the sound of voices is like the roar of the sea.

But there was nothing interesting to-day. The President, M. Marrast,

said, "M. Fayet a la parole," and I heard the Bishop of Orléans speak

twice, but very briefly. The speakers were generally very rapid; there

was a great want of dignity both in their manner, and in the general

aspect of the Chamber. They sit uncovered. I listened for about two

hours, and came away congratulating myself that I was not a

legislator, specially in the National Assembly. It seemed to me a

place for the violent to succeed in, and for the good and thoughtful

to fail in. I watched the representatives going in for some time;

generally speaking, they are anything in appearance but distinguished.

The presence of an armed force on every side gives likewise an

unpleasant feeling to an Englishman.

_Saturday, August 5._--Was an hour with the Père de Ravignan this

morning--one of the pleasantest I have spent in France. Really his

kindness and charity to a complete stranger are more than I can

express; and I was quite confounded when he thanked me repeatedly for

coming to see him. I told him I had not seen any institutions for the

education of the other sex, and he gave me notes to three. He agreed

with M. Galais in thinking that France was at present that part of the

Roman Church in which there was most movement. "Italy is always the

head and heart: there are, and always have been, there many

ecclesiastics of a holy life. Still it cannot be doubted that a

certain reform is wanted there--a reform, of course, to be wrought

_by_ the Church, and not in separation from her. This is only saying

that where there are men, there is a natural tendency to degenerate.

We have passed through this reform in France." I asked whether he

thought, if liberty of teaching were granted, that the Church would

regain the mass of the population. He hesitated. A certain effect

would doubtless be produced: the mere establishment of a house of

education in every diocese would be a considerable step. It was very

difficult to know the number of practising Catholics in France. There

were not above two millions of Protestants. Out of the million of

Parisians there might be from a hundred to a hundred and fifty

thousand who communicated at Easter, men, women and children: of women

one half were Catholic; of men, perhaps, one-twentieth. Paris was one

of the worst places in France; so, again, the North generally, and the

centre, Bourges, Berri, le Nivernois. On the other hand, in Bretagne

and the South religion was much more general. He then passed to a

subject which was of peculiar interest to me, as touching the sorest

place of a parish priest. "Suarez," said he, "has a discussion on the

fewness of the saved, whether this is said with reference to the world

or to the Church; and he applies it to the world, but not to the

Church. I think he is right; this is the result of a ministry of

twenty years, in which I have necessarily had large experience--it is

the feeling, also, of our fathers generally. You know the Church

teaches that _at_trition only, combined with the Sacrament of

penitence, avails to salvation--attrition arising from motives of fear

rather than of love. _Con_trition by itself, one act of pure love by

the soul, avails even without the Sacrament, if there be a firm

purpose and desire to receive it. God has no desire for the sinner's

death. Jansenism has done great harm on this subject, by inspiring a

sort of despair which is most dangerous." I observed that purgatory was

the necessary complement of such a doctrine. "It is so," he said, "and

though God is alone the judge of the sufficiency of those acts of the

dying, yet we may hope that a great number come within the terms of

salvation, whatever purifying process they may afterwards require." I

asked if Jansenism was not well nigh extinct? "It is, in France," he

said, "but it is still strong in Piemont and in Portugal." He then

reverted to the Primacy, and spoke of the force of that superiority

which is discernible through every century in the Papal See. Not one

passed in which, even from the East, some appeal was not made to it.

M. de Maistre spoke of a "présence réelle" of the Papacy being

sensibly felt throughout the whole history of the Church. I said I

rested our defence entirely on the difference between Primacy and

Monarchy. There were two great powers in the Church of divine

origin--the Papacy and the Episcopate. In the earlier centuries the

latter had been most sensibly felt: but in modern times the former.

"With regard to discipline," he said, "I might allow that; but as to

the hierarchy, and as to dogma, the relation has always been what it

is now: the hierarchy, even the Eastern patriarchs, always were as

strictly bound to the Roman chair as the bishops now. They felt the

Pope was their superior." I said I had been unable to see that. I had

searched far and wide for evidence of it. The patriarchs of

Alexandria, in their own district, and, later, the patriarchs of

Constantinople, throughout the East, had judged as absolutely as the

Pope in the West: independence was a wrong word to use; but they

seemed to enjoy as complete a liberty of action in their sphere as the

Pope in his. He observed, with regard to Bossuet's Gallicanism, "We

have been preserved from the ultimate consequences of those principles,

but they might have conducted to a sort of Anglicanism--the two

touched each other. But," he added, "Le cœur et la prière vous

éclairera. L'étude est souvent difficultueuse; ce n'est pas que

l'esprit n'ait pas ses propres fonctions. But light comes from the

heart. I shall often think of you, and pray for you." I said I thought

of leaving Paris on Thursday, and should like to pay him a last visit

on Wednesday. "I fear I shall be ordered out of town by my physician;

but I will try and return on Wednesday." "You must not think of it," I

said; "but are you not well?" "My throat is unwell, which prevents me

from preaching." "That is just it," I said: "I should have thought

myself most fortunate if I could have heard you preach." He embraced

me at parting; and wished to call on me, which I would not hear of.

Certainly, if ever there was a heart of Christian kindness, it is that

of the Père de Ravignan.

M. des Billiers showed me a very interesting MS. letter from

S. François de Sales to Mad. Chantal. Went again to call on M.

Noirlieu, but found him out, and to the Archevêché to get a ticket for

the service of Monday, but the secretary was out. In the evening

walked along the Boulevards; there was the usual tide of men and

women, but here, as everywhere else in Paris at present, there was a

total absence of all that seemed distinguished in either sex: a

respectable equipage is rarely seen. I doubt whether I have set eyes

on a lady since I have been here.

_Sunday, Aug. 6._--Went to La Madeleine at 10, expecting a Mass, but

it was the end of a Benediction, and then to my amazement saw M.

L'Abbé Pététot in the pulpit. Presently he explained that he was

there, the curé of the parish having given in his resignation, and the

vicars general of the chapter having appointed him to take care of the

parish, until the new archbishop should nominate another curé. He

earnestly requested their prayers both for the parish under such

circumstances, and for the person to be named. In every parish the

responsibility was great, but peculiarly so there, where not only so

much good was to be done, but where the example would have a wide

influence on others. The curé is much to be compassionated with the

care of 50,000 souls. The time would allow him but a short exhortation

to them. He then read a few prayers: gave out a neuvaine of prayers

beginning on that day, and preceding the feast of the Assumption, to

be directed for the tranquillity and well-being of France, by order of

the vicars general. It was not, of course, of obligation. The Psalm

_Miserere_ should be said each day, and "Sacré Cœur de Jésus, prenez

pitié de nous. Cœur immaculé de Marie, priez pour nous." He then read

the account of the Transfiguration, and began with remarking on the

wisdom of the Church in bringing before us at stated times particular

subjects of contemplation. Thus the thought of heaven, which the

Transfiguration suggested, she called to our minds on the Second

Sunday of Lent, and on Ascension Day, and on All Saints. It was a

thought peculiarly necessary and good for us. What would our life with

all its pains and afflictions be, without heaven? How could we

understand anything that passed here below? "car la terre sans le ciel

serait la negation la plus formelle de Dieu." Without the thought of

heaven we should be exposed continually to two opposite dangers,--on

the one hand despair, on the other too great attachment to the world.

M. Pététot's delivery is particularly graceful, and has something

quite paternal and attaching in it. I thought his dress most becoming;

over the baue he wore a canon's tippet, dark, and bordered with pink,

while his stole, embroidered with gold and joined over the breast,

contrasted well with the other colours. No more consummate _bêtise_

have we committed, than the giving up the proper dress of the clergy;

and assuredly never was there a greater mistake, than to consider it a

question of superficial importance. Alas! for the day of coldness and

neglect, when the English priest changed his cassock for the layman's

coat. But I fear the outward form seldom fails to be an index of the

inward spirit; the body here is the clothing of the soul. From the

time the chasuble was relinquished, the keys were no longer used, and

both, I believe, will be restored or remain in abeyance together.

At three, a sermon at La Madeleine on humility: it was a good plain

discourse, setting it forth as the first and most necessary of

Christian graces, springing from the consciousness of our personal sin

and misery, in feeling which consisted the _precept_, and in desiring

to be treated accordingly the _counsel_ or perfection of humility.

This was followed by the Benediction, in which were the prayers for

the neuvaine.

Dined with M. Martin de Noirlieu. He said the archbishop's death had

been an époque for the Church. His funeral was a real triumphal

procession, such as France had not seen since the great revolution.

Seven hundred priests took part in it. His body was borne uncovered.

Every one, especially the military, pressed to touch it, so that the

white gloves and stockings became quite black. An intense feeling had

been excited by his sacrifice: the people had never been so well

disposed to the Church. It looked to the priests now for comfort and

support, and had confidence in them. He saw daily the effects of this

in his parish. He had been treated with more respect to-day than

he had ever known before. A movement towards religion was certainly

begun in France, which must go on; it would require time, but it would

spread wide. Catholicism was still a power in France; and, what was

very certain, it must be either this or nothing. There was no

inclination to Protestantism. Some Protestant ministers wished to

bless the trees of liberty, but the people would not hear of it. "Who

are you?" they said; "we want the priests of Pie Neuf." He said the

republic was hated and could not last: already Henri Cinq was in many

mouths. What was very remarkable in the archbishop's death was, that

he was not at all likely to have done such a thing. It was not in his

character. He had a great dread of death. At twelve o'clock on the

Sunday he had not thought of it: he then hastily dined and set off

with his vicars general to M. Cavaignac. The enthusiasm which his

presence everywhere produced was wonderful. The soldiers rendered him

martial honours by a spontaneous feeling, and the people knelt for his

blessing. That passage on foot was a triumphal march. In the midst of

his agony he said, "Eloignez vous, mes amis; je ne vous édifie pas."

M. de Noirlieu and his brother, a young priest, asked many questions

about the movement in England. The view he had taken was, that

Puseyism would lay hold of many Catholic truths which it found in

antiquity, such as the sacrifice of the Mass, but would not

admit that extension of power which was now claimed for the Pope. He

observed, however, that those who went over took the most extreme line

of Ultra-Montanism. The appointment of Hampden must have done us much

injury. I observed that among them the Church was working under such

oppression that anything but Catholicism would be destroyed by it. For

instance, in every commune the schoolmaster, generally a person

without faith, is set up by the government as an antagonist to the

priest. The attempt to make education a mere affair of the state was

thoroughly anti-christian. He agreed that it was only the "sêve

intarissable" of Catholicism, ever mounting up afresh, which kept them

alive. M. de Noirlieu has juster notions of the English Church, and

makes larger allowances in favour of our state, than any other

ecclesiastic I have met.

_Monday, August 7._--I was at Notre Dame by half past eight, for the

ceremony in honour of the archbishop. The church became gradually very

crowded. I was in time to get a seat very near the pulpit. Mass

began at ten. Most of the clergy of Paris were present; some

representatives; the Cardinal de la Tour d'Auvergne, a venerable old

man of 80, who officiated; the Bishop of Langres; and the Bishop of

Quimper. Just before eleven M. L'abbé Cœur began his funeral

oration, which lasted two hours and forty-three minutes. When

about half over, the poor old cardinal, who, of course, was fasting,

could hold out no longer; he was obliged to go out, and finished the

Mass in silence in the choir, while the sermon continued. Thus its

inordinate length broke the order of the service. The preacher was not

without merit, but his delivery was very bad, and he was obliged

continually to spit; an operation which would come on in the middle of

a sentence, and was once repeated six times in the most disagreeable

manner. The eloquence of Demosthenes himself could not have sustained

such an interruption; and I could not help wishing that the Père

Lacordaire, whom I saw present, had been in his place. The sermon

contained a sketch of the life and labours of the archbishop,

especially praising his simplicity, learning, courage, complete

independence of state or personal interests. That he had fully

understood the mission of the Church in these latter times, to

consummate the alliance between religion and his country. He had it

much at heart to form in the Ancienne Maison des Carmes, rendered so

illustrious by the blood of martyrs in 1792, a new school of prophets,

eminent at once for science, piety, and courage. He was a great

encourager of learning in the clergy. Their efforts in behalf of "la

liberté d'enseignement," would be the honour of the French episcopate

in the eyes of posterity. The archbishop was powerful in his

life, but much more so in his death. His death was the real apology of

the sacerdoce, which had been attacked. It could not be defended by

books; it required a martyrdom: "le martyre est un grand maître de la

raison; il ne discute pas, il montre." A hundred years of teaching

could not have proved what his blood shed in the Faubourg S. Antoine

had established. Nor was his death brought about by an "entrainement

du caractère: c'est l'apologie du sacerdoce et du Christianisme." The

preacher dwelt at great length on the "new times,"--that the Church

was essentially indifferent to all governments: it was the life of

humanity. He then gave a Christian explanation of liberty, equality,

fraternity; and finished with an address to the archbishop: they did

not believe that he needed their prayers, which, however, they would

offer for him.

This sermon, besides its inordinate length, was deficient in

connection and choice of subjects: it was far too general. Had it been

well delivered, parts would have been very interesting; but,

considering that the occasion was quite unique--the death of an

archbishop and martyr--it must be considered a failure. I was more

than five hours and a half in Notre Dame.

Went to M. des Billiers, who conducted me to the Couvent des Oiseaux,

for the Supérieure of which le Père de Ravignan had given me a

letter. The Sisters of Notre Dame were founded by the Bienheureux

Fourrier, for the purpose of educating. But their houses, though

conducted on the same principles, are independent. This is of very

great extent,--has a very handsome chapel, with oak fittings, and a

rich marble altar; a very costly library, including a large collection

of engravings of different schools, museum of natural history, and

every thing which can contribute to the ordinary education of young

ladies. Nothing that I have seen in Paris interested me more than this

house; nor was I ever more struck with the advantages which la vie de

communauté presents. There are here, between mères and sœurs, 116

religieuses, who are occupied in directing the education of 240 girls;

at least, there were this number before the events of February: there

are at present only 50; but it is just before the vacation, and a

large number have been withdrawn, either from the fears of their

parents, or their inability, since those events, to pay the pension.

They employ, besides, sixteen masters, for music, languages, &c. The

terms are 1800 francs a-year. There are one hundred pianos in the

house, and every thing that I saw was on a like scale of abundance and

richness. They attend Mass daily. We went to a Benediction in the

chapel; and after this the aumonier conducted us all over the

house,--the class-rooms, dortoirs, garden, &c. A religieuse

sleeps in each dortoir; the beds have not even curtains, so that there

is the most perfect surveillance. A pupil is never left with a master

alone, but one of the sisters is present at the lessons. No private

establishment could possibly compete with this: three millions of

francs, the almoner told us, had been laid out upon it, first and

last; every thing is done for the pupils by the religieuses, nor have

they any servants, save for the garden. They give, besides,

instruction gratuitously to a large number of poor children,

separately from their pensionnaires. The almoner told us he gave two

instructions to the upper, and two to the lower classes, every week.

He had got together an immense collection of maps and engravings, a

volume for each department of France, in order that the pupils might

have pictures of all that was described to them; for which he quoted

to me--

"Segnius irritant animos demissa per aures,

Quam quæ sunt oculis subjecta fidelibus."

The great extent of this house, the number of the rooms, the

perfection of all its accommodations, astonished me. The number of

teachers, in comparison to the taught, is far beyond anything we have;

not less difference is there in the pains taken with their religious

instruction, and the moral surveillance exercised over them. But the

most pleasing thought of all was, that personal interest was not

the prime agent, nor an agent at all in this. These nuns acquire

nothing from their pupils personally: the house, it is true, is

necessarily supported by the pensions; but all that remains goes to

the instruction of the poor, or the decoration of the chapel, or the

advantage of future generations of scholars in the accommodations of

the house. The teachers do not get rich upon the taught, not to speak

of the poor who are instructed gratuitously at the same time. The

number of persons engaged allows of the greatest attention being paid

to any individual case requiring it, and the primum mobile is charity.

How great the superiority in all points of view to any private

establishment. Gain entering in changes the motive of all this: from a

work of love, it becomes a profession; self-sacrifice vanishes, as

personal interest appears. They have English and Irish pupils here, as

well as of other nations: even some Protestants. The garden is quite

sufficient for all purposes of recreation. The age of the pupils

ranges from ten to eighteen or twenty. Some remain till they marry.

Accompanied M. Bonnetty to Lady ---- in the evening.

_Tuesday, August 8._--My visit to the Couvent des Oiseaux yesterday

sharpened me for that to the Dames du Sacré Cœur to-day. Le Père de

Ravignan had given me a note to Madame D'Avenas. We had a great

deal of talk with her, which not unfrequently took a controversial

turn; and she seemed particularly well informed on such points. The

congregation of Sacré Cœur was only founded, she told us, in 1800;

they now have about fifty houses in France, three in Rome, others in

Piemont (lately sequestrated by the state), in the United States, one

at Acton, near London,--in all, about seventy. At eighteen they may

commence a noviciate, which lasts two years: they can then take the

vows for five years: at the end of which time, being of twenty-five

years at least, they can, if they please, take the final and

irrevocable vows. There are one hundred Sisters in this house, which

is the old palace of the Ducs de Biron, in the Rue de Varennes, having

a garden of immense extent behind it. Their scholars, before the

events of February, amounted to 160: all is done for them by the

sisters, who have no servants, except for the garden. They have

masters for the different arts: the pension, exclusive of these

masters, is 1000 francs. The Supérieure Générale of all these seventy

houses resides here. They are founded uniquely for education. Some of

the class-rooms are very magnificent--the old reception rooms of the

palace. But, generally speaking, the house is not equal in its extent

or fitting up to Les Oiseaux; but the garden is far more extensive.

Madame D'Avenas walked over it with us; and amid its groves one

can hardly believe that one is in Paris. Both Madame D'Avenas and M.

des Billiers attacked me on the state of separation of the English

Church, and the schism it had thereby incurred: this, I said, depended

on the degree to which the Papal claim is true.

Called on M. ----, who gave me a deplorable account of the state of

things here: that the chiefs of the party for the République

Rouge--Louis Blanc, Caussidiere, and Ledru Rollin--were supported by

General Cavaignac secretly: that the rapport just given to the

Assemblée had re-awakened the most furious passions, and that a fresh

insurrection might break out at any time.

In the evening called to thank the bishop of Langres for the service

he has been to me in procuring for me the company of M. des Billiers,

who, together with M. Farel, his Vicaire Général, returned with me and

talked some time.

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