If the gipsies are not the dispersed Egyptians, where are that
scattered people? If the dispersed and scattered gipsies are not
the descendants of the offending Egyptians, what are they?
_The Gipsies._ By SAMUEL ROBERTS.
THE RAUMA--A LOFTY CLIMB--MORE RAIN--THE FOREST WALK--TENT
LIFE--PEASANT FÊTE--NORWEGIAN DANCING--ZACHARIAH’S RIDE--THE
WOOD CARVINGS--A PSALMODION--STUEFLAATEN--THE
ROMSDAL--MAGNIFICENT SCENERY--ENGLISH SPOKEN.
Taking Noah down to the station, we purchased one mark of fladbröd, one
mark of butter, and four skillings’ worth of soap. Esmeralda had used
all our stock of soap. The quality of soap in some parts of Norway is
indifferent. The kitchen was extremely hot; but we went into a small
comfortable sitting-room, where we inspected photographs of various
eminent men of Norway, and some carved spoons, during the few minutes we
stayed. As we returned to the road, the old man asked us how far we were
going, and seemed disappointed when we said, “Langt.” It is probable he
wished to see our camp. Our party were soon following the banks of the
river Rauma.
From the “Lesje Vœrks Vand” the Logan flows south, and the Rauma, whose
banks we had now reached, flows north. The picturesque lake, from which
these two rivers have their source, is about one Norsk mile long. The
Logan falls into the Mjösen Lake at Lillehammer; the Rauma falls into
the Isfjord, a branch of the Romsdal Fjord near Veblungsnœs. Romsdalen
begins at Holsœt,[58] near our camp at Lœsje, and is about fifty-six
miles long. The country through which we travelled on the banks of the
Rauma was very beautiful. Molmen is a good fishing station. We saw some
large trout in the Rauma, near Molmen. The same interest continued with
regard to our donkeys. One peasant got out on the roof of his house to
get a better view. At one place a peasant came after us, and suggested
we should camp on some wild waste land through which our route passed,
and across which the wind was coldly blowing. There was little shelter.
The place was not inviting, and we had yet time to be fastidious in the
selection of a camping ground. Having passed “Enebo,” we continued our
route. Zachariah rode on the top of the baggage of one donkey, and
occasionally played his violin. At length we came to a wild extent of
open moorland, with mountains rising on either side. Over the plain,
detached clumps of trees, gave the scene a more cheerful aspect. On the
moorland’s edge, to the right, hanging woods covered the base of the
mountains to a considerable height.
The picturesque mountain, called the Raanaa, dark in its wild clouds,
and a mountain we understood as the Konokon, also the Kongel, the Kolhö,
and Böverhö Mountains were before us. We turned off the route to the
right across the moorland, and halted near a small lake by a clump of
trees, in sight of a picturesque waterfall. The donkeys were unloaded in
a cold wind and heavy rain. Two boys came up almost immediately, and,
putting up our fishing-tackle, we followed them, with Zachariah, across
the moorland to the left of our route, and, reaching the enclosure of a
hanging wood on the steep bank of the Rauma, we were soon fishing in its
stream. The water had a thick greenish hue. The wind was very cold, with
occasional rain. Some of the throws were exceedingly good; but not a
rise, and we returned in about an hour to our camp. Dinner consisted of
three pounds of our dried meat, from Holaker, boiled with potatoes,
rice, pea-flour, and reindeer moss, to flavour it. Very good it was:
soup first, then meat, potatoes, and fladbröd, water being our beverage
instead of tea when we had soup. A man and two boys came, and we gave
the man brandy, and the two boys brandy-and-water. When the peasant took
his brandy neat, he seemed thoroughly to appreciate it, and his visage
bore marks of a fondness for aquavit. A tall, respectable-looking old
man, in an ample black cloth dress coat, with a belt round it outside,
to which his hunting-knife hung, and large gloves on, came up. They
stood in the rain looking at us, as we sat in the wet enjoying our
dinner, with the exception of the meat, which was too tough even for
ourself and three hungry gipsies to masticate. The greatest part of the
meat was put by, to be again made into soup.
Dinner being finished, and being extremely wet about the legs, we
proposed to visit the waterfall we saw in the distance. It was about
four o’clock, and Esmeralda accompanied us, whilst Noah and Zacharia
remained in charge of the camp. Passing by the moorland lake, we were
soon in the forest, sometimes nearly over our boots in wet marshy
ground, and at other times climbing precipitous rocks, covered with moss
and foliage, overhung with pine and birch. Our route was devious and
uneven, damp and moist. The vand fos was given up. A beautiful bouquet
of wild flowers was secured, and at six o’clock we sighted our camp. Our
feet were wet through as we came up, and found our tents had been
pitched by Noah in our absence. Changing our wet things, we had tea and
fried trout in our tents. It was delightful to find ourselves
comfortably seated in the luxuriousness and independent freedom of our
tents, in sight of the forests and picturesque fields. A gentleman came
whilst we were at tea, probably from his carriole, which he had left on
the main route. As he walked round the tents, he bowed, and seemed much
pleased with a scene illustrating nomadic life in wet weather.
The clouds cleared towards half-past eight, and the peasants made up a
large fire for us. Then they came round the tent, and we sang our gipsy
song and the “Mocking Bird,” with the guitar accompaniment.
The weather being new tolerably fine, we went to the fire and played
some few airs. The peasants evidently wanted to dance. Two beaux of the
village were as usual there: one a slim, short, pale young man, with
black surtout coat; and the other a young man in ordinary peasant
costume. They began dancing together to our music, and the pale young
man took off his hat very politely to Esmeralda, who was seated in the
tent. Finding the peasants wished to dance, and that the turf was too
uneven, we went up to the road, and taking our waterproof to sit upon,
the gipsies, Noah, Zachariah, and ourself played them a number of
polkas. The two beaux of the village soon found two stout peasant girls
for partners, and danced to an admiring audience. Noah danced with one;
but he said she smelt so much of ointments he could not go on. The
peasants seemed much pleased with the music--in fact, I believe we were
improving. Zachariah played a Norwegian tune he had picked up on board
the steamer going to Lillehammer, which seemed to suit them exactly. The
pale young man in the surtout coat, and an active peasant girl, danced
to it in a peculiar Norwegian step. We liked to see them. As they
danced, sometimes the pale young man relinquished the waist of his
partner, and they both turned the reverse way apart, keeping up the step
till they again met once more, and whirled round rapidly together. The
stillness of evening, with its freshness after rain, as the dancers
waltzed in the midst of the wild moorland, to the sounds of the violin,
guitar, and tambourine,--a thousand different dreams crowded upon our
fancy. That Norwegian air!--again and again we played it, till our
dancers were almost tired. The spectators apparently enjoyed looking on
quite as well. There was the peasant who appreciated spirits, and many
more. They are a good-humoured people. One peasant girl would insist
upon Esmeralda coming up. The pale young man wished to dance with
Esmeralda; but she would only dance once with her brother before he went
to take her place at the tents. All things have an end. Our music ended.
Wishing our friends, including our two beaux of the village, good night,
we went to our tents, and the peasants soon after left. Esmeralda was
rather unwell, for she had neglected to change her wet boots.
Brandy-and-water was administered to Esmeralda and Noah. The night was
damp and cold, and we could scarcely keep our feet warm.
Rising at about seven o’clock we went again to the Rauma; but fished
without success. The morning was cold. Returning to breakfast, Esmeralda
had prepared four eggs, tea, and fladbröd and butter, for the party. As
the gipsies were striking our tents and loading our baggage a man and
two boys came, and a little girl with some milk, but too late for our
breakfast. She had brought it some little distance, and we bought it for
five skillings. Leaving our camp, we passed the waterfall, and crossed a
bridge, leaving the open moorland for the enclosed road. The river
seemed well adapted for fish; but we do not think much sport can be
obtained at this part of the Rauma. Very soon after we commenced our
day’s journey, Zachariah, who had ridden on one of the loaded donkeys
most of the previous day, wished to ride again. Occasionally we did not
object; but our donkeys had already quite sufficient weight without the
addition of Zachariah. His brother and sister were of the same opinion
as ourself, and, although he alleged pain in his stomach, we suggested
that walking would be its best antidote. With a wild waywardness of
disposition, he soon after jumped on one of the loaded donkeys from
behind, which resulted in his being pulled off with a shake, which, if
it did not bring him to his senses, brought him to his feet for the rest
of the day’s journey.
The Shorengro (gip., chief) of a party should be firm. Camp laws, as
laid down before starting, should be adhered to. In matters requiring
the decision of the directing mind, caution should be used. When
settled, arrangements should be firmly acted upon; wavering and
feebleness of purpose will soon ruin the success of any expedition; calm
serenity of mind, and good temper through all difficulties, is
indispensable. The peasants showed the same anxiety as usual to see our
donkeys. The former station at Nystuen is now discontinued.
Before we reached Stueflaaten a reindeer-hunter came to us in the road,
a thick-set intelligent man, dressed in good clothes and wearing long
boots. The hunter spoke a little English. We went with him up to his
house, close to the road. The large family room, used as kitchen and
general room, was as badly ventilated as usual. Very seldom we ventured
into the close atmosphere of the Norwegian farm-houses. There are, no
doubt, exceptions. Many of the houses have very small windows, which do
not open, and they are therefore closed winter and summer. The musketos
and flies and heat are kept out, but then it is generally at the cost of
fresh air, that invaluable health-producer, too lightly estimated. The
room had a trap-door in the floor, with a ring to it, which somehow we
always connect with a scene of mystery; some adventure requiring to be
worked out with a melodramatic _dénouement_. The reindeer-hunter’s wife
furnished us with some butter, two eggs, and some fladbröd, for which we
paid one mark three skillings. The butter was of dark yellow colour, but
we found it good. They had a very primitive weighing-machine, a short
piece of round wood with a knob at one end, and a small hook at the
other. The article to be weighed is hung on the hook, and the machine is
balanced on the finger at certain marks, which indicate the weight.
Several carved spoons, and an ingeniously carved butter-cup, were
produced. For the butter-cup, which the reindeer-hunter had carved
himself, he wanted three marks. At our request he reached a “Psalmodion”
down--a very primitive Norwegian instrument--one string stretched over a
flat board, played with a kind of fiddle-bow. The sound is neither
harmonious or lively, though the hunter, who played it, was probably a
good performer. There was much that was ancient and belonging to a past
age, in the house. We afterwards bought one of his carved wooden spoons
for ten skillings, which seemed to please the reindeer-hunter very much.
The carved spoon was given to Esmeralda, and ultimately broken.
[Illustration: PRIMITIVE WEIGHING MACHINE.]
The station of Stueflaaten stands upon a rise of ground forming a kind
of promontory, round which the road circles, so that you can walk up one
side to the station and descend on the other into the road. There is a
sort of balcony, with seats round it, and steps up to it, in front of
the entrance door. A very civil hostess--we took her for such--met us
from the kitchen. They had also an inner room, in which a large fire was
burning. Our stores were replenished with three marks’ worth of
fladbröd, potatoes, and twelve eggs. The people of the station came down
to see our donkeys. At a short distance from Stueflaaten the route
descends the side of steep rocky cliffs by a zig-zag road cut through
the rocks. A large expanse of fjeld and forest, broken and intersected
by rushing torrents, leaving nothing but streaks of white foam visible
in the distance, converged to the deep, deep, narrow romantic valley we
were now entering. The day had become fine and beautiful. We gazed in
silence as we commenced our descent down the road, carried in a slanting
direction to an angle, so as to render the way less difficult and steep.
At a very short distance after we had turned the angle of the road a
halt was called. In a recess covered with wild flowers, and bushes on
the top of the sloping bank, above the road, we found sufficient room
for our middags-mad.
The broken bank was overhung by steep rocks. The fire was soon lighted.
Esmeralda peeled some potatoes. An excellent soup was made from our
stock of yesterday, to which was added the dried meat from Holiaker, to
be boiled a second time with potatoes, Liebig’s essence, and a quantity
of wild sorrel. What a beautiful scene! What numberless streams dashing
in their deep-worn watercourses into the blue waters of the Rauma, which
loses itself in the deep ravine of the narrow valley; so we stayed until
it was found to be six o’clock. Hastily loading again we followed the
gradual descent of the road. Before us rose the singularly shaped
mountain, said to be the Dontind.[59] Its shape is peculiar, with its
escarped precipices and snowy summit. A very picturesque waterfall came
dashing down the rocks to our right, and close by stood a very small
wooden mill, with its simple and primitive method of grinding. The
miller was there as we looked in, and had just room to stand inside. He
was grinding oats. If many articles of food are not so fine in quality
in Norway, there is one satisfaction, that what you have is generally
genuine.
At last we came to where the Rauma, at a short distance from the road,
enters a deep gorge, and forms the beautiful fall of the Sœndre
Slettefossen. The river passes through a deep chasm of rock, and is
spanned by a narrow log bridge. Not far from the fall, on the opposite
side of the road, we found some rough broken ground at the back of a
rocky cliff. An old carriage-way had once gone through the rocks, but
was now stopped up, so that we found ourselves on a comfortable platform
above the main road.
The view was beautiful. The donkeys were driven up, and quickly
unloaded. An old peasant man and woman, and one or two children were
there, as if they had been forewarned of our arrival, and were ready to
receive us. Out came our silver-mounted brandy-flask. It was of handsome
spiral shape and formed of glass. How it escaped being broken we could
never make out, but we have it now. The old man and woman drank their
brandy, and seemed much pleased. They plucked some grass to feed the
donkeys. Very soon other peasants came, and a reindeer-hunter, who spoke
some English. The hunter was a very civil intelligent man; he could read
English, and spoke it tolerably well, telling us there were many
reindeer, and he would go with English gentlemen shooting them.
Our evening meal was soon ready, four eggs, fladbröd, butter, and tea.
The peasants were told that after our tents were pitched they should
have some music. Two of my tent-rods were broken, and we had to splice
them--. In consequence of the loss of our kettle-prop we were obliged to
make holes for our tent-rods with the sharp point of one of Tennant’s
geological hammers. Whilst the tents were being pitched we continued our
_notes de voyage_.
The peasants were not numerous, but they were appreciative as we played.
It was interesting to watch their kindly countenances as they gazed on
the nomads, with their tents and donkeys, on the sheltered platform of a
rocky cliff above the Rauma. When our music ended, and we wished them
good night, they did not remain about our tents, but quietly left us to
take our rest.