CHAPTER XII

WHEN THE END COMES

Though life is held very cheaply in Corsica, mourning and burials are

attended with a great deal of ceremony. It is a fairly general rule

throughout the world that, as a race becomes more and more civilized,

the ceremonies connected with death and burial become simpler and

simpler. In many respects Corsica is not a civilized country, and its

inhabitants mourn for their dead much after the fashion that Jacob

mourned for the death of Joseph, or David for the deaths of Saul and

Jonathan.

When it is thought that a man is about to die, a candle is lit, and the

sign of the cross is made with it over the body. Then the relatives

wait in solemn silence until life has passed away. But at the very

moment when the last breath has been drawn the women come close to

the bedside, burst into sobs, and utter loud cries of sorrow. The men

remain perfectly still and quiet, and it would be difficult to tell

from any change in their manner that they are at all affected by their

loss. Sometimes the women lose all control of themselves, roll upon

the floor, and even beat and bruise their own bodies.

While the corpse is still warm the eyes are closed, and a handkerchief

is passed under the chin and tied above the head to close the mouth. It

is dressed in its best clothes and laid upon a funeral couch.

In former times the funeral couch was an ordinary table, because in the

poor houses of the village there was never any unnecessary furniture.

Nowadays the body is placed, when possible, upon a couch or sofa in one

of the living-rooms of the house.

If a person dies in the evening, after sunset, the noise of the wailing

soon ceases. During the night prayers are said around the body. Only

the women enter the chamber; the men remain silent and serious in

a neighbouring room. Towards midnight, or about one o’clock in the

morning, a light meal is served which varies in different districts. At

Ajaccio it consists of anchovies in vinegar, bread, wine, cheese, and

a cup of coffee. In certain villages it consists of cakes of a kind of

sweet cheese called _broccia_, which is made from the milk of goats.

As soon as the dawn comes, loud cries are heard, and dirges are chanted

without ceasing until the body is taken away. These funeral songs are

called _voceri_ or _ballata_. They are composed on the spot by women

members of the family who possess the gift. If there is no relative

of the dead who is able to do this, a friend or neighbour is asked to

undertake the duty. In the songs questions are addressed to the dead

man just as though he were alive; all the chief incidents in his life

are recounted; his features and his virtues are described; and if he

has been murdered the relatives are incited to take vengeance.

The appearance of the singer is mournful in the extreme. Her eyes are

red with tears, and her face is convulsed with grief. She tears her

hair violently, stoops down over the body, kisses it, calls it by

name, and sways from side to side, all the time shrieking at the top

of her voice. Other mourners arrive, all in black. On the threshold

of the chamber they stop, raise their hands towards the heavens, and

cry three times with all their might the name of the dead. Then they

go forward, bathed in tears. When they reach the bed, they stoop to

kiss the body and the relatives, and do their best in broken tones to

mutter words of sympathy and consolation. They take their places in the

circle of figures upon the floor, and the penetrating shrieks and cries

are heard once more. All this time the _voceratrice_ is chanting the

praises of the dead. When she is exhausted, she sinks upon a chair, and

calls one of the mourners by name to take her place and continue the

lamentations. So it goes on for hours, one after the other chanting the

songs of misery and woe.

[Illustration: ROADSIDE CROSS.]

People passing by the house hear, but give little heed to all this

clamour. They are used to it. Barry says: “One fine day when I was

strolling about, and nearing a place where the washerwomen wash, I

heard a succession of piercing shrieks, and, turning my steps in

the direction of the sounds, perceived the clothes and figure of a

female rolling about in the dust of the road. The said female, who was

respectably dressed, and who seemed to be a girl of about sixteen or

seventeen, would from time to time rise from the ground, walk a few

steps in the direction of the town, and then again throw herself down,

casting handfuls of dirt over her head, tearing out her hair, which was

perfectly dishevelled, and frantically screaming all the while, though

none of the washerwomen took the least notice, ‘My sister is dead! My

sister is dead!’”

It can easily be imagined that when a man has been assassinated the

wailing and the chanting are more violent than usual. In 1896 a

celebrated bandit was killed. In the night, his wife, his sister, and

his cousins went to the village where his body was publicly exposed.

They howled like tigresses in the silence of the night, and their cries

were so piercing and so full of sorrow that all the people of the town

were awakened in great fright, and shivered with terror.

On the morning of the funeral, when the bearers come to take the body

away, the noise is terrible; the women huddle together at the windows,

tear their hair, scratch their faces, and hurl violent adieus after the

hearse. The funeral is arranged to take place at an hour when as many

people as possible can see it, and, for the same reason, the longest

way to the cemetery is chosen. In a big town the bells will play a

merry tune; a band will deafen the spectators with its not too solemn

music; and a long procession of choir-boys and clergymen in white, and

of bands of men with white cowls and scarlet tippets, walks rather

joyfully behind the bier. The procession does not always continue as

far as the cemetery. When the spectators along the road-side thin out,

the procession breaks up, and its members come back to feast. Even

the clergy return with hurried footsteps, as if anxious not to miss

any of the good things that are provided on these occasions. There is

little solemnity and sometimes little decency about the whole of the

proceedings. Members of the procession will smoke cigars both going and

coming, and there is always a bit of a scramble for a ride home again

in the vacant hearse.

On the return from the cemetery, a funeral banquet is served, which

often causes the expenditure of a large sum of money, for everyone who

attends the funeral expects to share in the feast. It is a matter of

family pride that the feast shall be as grand as possible, and poor

people will kill their last few cows and sheep in order that they shall

not be accused of being mean and stingy at such a time. Rich men will

not only provide a feast, but give presents as well. At Ajaccio the

custom of the funeral banquet has almost disappeared, but gourds of

wine, biscuits and cigars, are placed in the hearse and are carried to

the cemetery, where they are consumed and enjoyed by the poor.

It is considered a matter of great importance that one should be buried

in the proper clothes, and when a man is supposed to be in danger, the

family at once begin to make his shroud, and even carry on their work

in the room where the sick person lies.

Black is worn as a sign of mourning, as in other European countries. As

murders are so common, it can safely be said that in almost any town or

village in Corsica you can see more people in black than in any other

town or village of the same size in Europe. The period of mourning for

a near relative is, amongst the women, from four to five years. After

a second bereavement they never wear coloured clothes again. Even the

children are oftener dressed in black than in any other colour, so that

to a land which Nature has decked with every beautiful tint and hue,

man has added nothing but a sombre and distressing black.

Peeps at Many Lands: Corsica · 第 12 / 17 章