1. _To mount._ | Take hold of the barrel of the rifle with the
|left hand, about 3 inches below the muzzle,
|butt downwards, and prepare to mount, but
PREPARE TO |with the rifle held in the left hand on the
MOUNT. |off side of the horse.
+----------------------------------------------
MOUNT. | Mount as usual, raise the rifle with the left
|hand, seize it with the right hand in front of
|the magazine, and place it in the bucket.
----------------+----------------------------------------------
2. _To |
dismount._ |
|
PREPARE TO | Seize the rifle with the right hand at the
DISMOUNT. |small of the butt.
+--------------------------------------------------
TWO. | Draw the rifle out of the bucket far enough
|to allow the hand to re-grasp it just in front
|of the magazine; raise it so as to clear the
|front of the saddle.
+--------------------------------------------------
THREE. | Lower the butt under the bridle hand, and
|hold the barrel with the left hand about
|3 inches below the muzzle.
+--------------------------------------------------
FOUR. | Place the right hand in front of the saddle,
|and quit the right stirrup. On the command
|“DISMOUNT,” dismount as usual, bringing the
|rifle to the position of the “_Order_” in the left
|hand, and hold the bridle with the right hand.
|
|If required for dismounted service, as soon
|as the horse is given up, the rifle is passed
|from the left hand to the right.
----------------+---------------------------------------------
3. _The_ | The rifle is held with the right hand in front
_advance._ |of the magazine resting on the upper part of
|the right thigh, thumb and fingers round the
|rifle, muzzle pointing to the left front and
|just clear of the horse’s near ear, trigger guard
|to the front.
----------------+-------------------------------------------------
4. _To draw |
_arms._ |
|
DRAW--ARMS. | Grasp the rifle at the small of the butt.
----------------+-------------------------------------------------
TWO. | Draw the rifle out of the bucket far enough
|to allow the hand to re-grasp it just in front
|of the magazine.
----------------+-------------------------------------------------
THREE. | Retaining the same grasp, bring the rifle to
|the “_Advance_.”
----------------+-------------------------------------------------
5. _To carry_ | From the “_Advance_.”--Without moving the
_arms._ |right hand from its grasp of the rifle, place,
|the butt on the upper part of the right thigh,
CARRY--ARMS. |with the right eye, trigger guard to the left,
|back of the hand down, arm slightly bent,
|elbow close to the side.
----------------+--------------------------------------------------
6. _To return_ | This is done in one motion as follows:--Raise
_arms._ |the butt of the rifle and lower the muzzle
|into the mouth of the bucket, pressing the
RETURN--ARMS. |rifle well home with the right hand, trigger
|guard to the rear, taking care that the bolt lever
|does not catch on the edge of the bucket.
----------------+--------------------------------------------------
=52.= _Revolver shooting._
1. Revolver shooting is to be practised mounted by all ranks armed with
that weapon.
2. At least 10 days’ preliminary instruction, including snapping,
should be given immediately before firing the first year’s course,
while 5 days’ practice will generally be advisable before subsequent
courses. This preliminary instruction is important, in order to
inculcate correct methods and to train the eye and muscles of the hand,
wrist and arm.
3. The allowance of blank ammunition is required to accustom men to the
shock of discharge and horses to the noise. Firing should be carried
out first at a walk and finally at a canter.
4. When loaded the revolvers should be carried muzzle down and the
finger away from the trigger.
5. To take aim the revolver should be raised on to the mark, keeping
the wrist stiff with the forearm, wrist and barrel in the same vertical
plane, or it may be brought direct into the alignment. The arm may be
kept straight or slightly bent.
Mounted men should learn to shoot, without taking aim along the sights,
at the centre of the body of the target. With a little practice they
should learn to keep their eyes on the object and, as it were, “throw
the bullet” at it.
6. Practice with ball ammunition should be divided into two parts,
dismounted and mounted. The latter should not be carried out until a
man thoroughly understands the handling of the weapon.
DRIVING.
=53.= _General principles._
1. All officers, non-commissioned officers, and drivers must possess a
thorough knowledge of the principles of driving and of fitting harness.
2. Even and steady draught is a matter of paramount importance; the
respective weights behind teams are calculated on the assumption that
every horse will do his fair share of work; this is impossible unless
the driving is of a high order. If the driving is not good, neither
quick manœuvre, long marches, nor efficient transport serviceman be
assured.
3. When draught is even and steady every trace in the team is taut, and
the horses’ heads are facing straight to the front. If, for example, an
off horse’s head is pulled inwards, his draught power is reduced and he
is liable to become collar galled.
4. The lead driver is responsible for direction, distance, and pace; it
is the duty of the centre and wheel drivers to keep the traces taut and
cover him.
5. Temperament should be the first consideration in teaming horses. A
slug should therefore, if possible, not be included in a team of very
willing horses.
6. The position of the horses should frequently be changed; a hand
horse, for example, loses his back muscles if he is never ridden, and
is also apt to acquire the habit of leaning on the off side of the bit.
=54.= _Fitting harness._
1. The _saddle_, _saddle blanket_, _girth_, _surcingle_, _bit_, _curb_,
_chain_, _head rope_, _nose band_, and _throat lash_ will be fitted as
for the riding horse. (_See_ Secs. =30-32=.)
2. The _riding rein_[4] should be fitted of such a length that the
driver has complete control over his horse.
In the _leading rein_ the short piece on the near side should be
carefully fitted so that the bearing of the bit in the horse’s mouth
may be even when the rein is held in the driver’s hand.
[4] NOTE.--Special reins for near and off horses will eventually be
abolished and ordinary reins substituted.
The _side rein_, if required, should be buckled to the cheek of the bit
of the horse, the end being buckled to the saddle.
4. The _breast collar_ should hang horizontally from the padded neck
straps, the lower edge about one inch above the point of the shoulder.
The higher it is in reason the less chance there is of the horse
galling.
5. The _pole bar supporting straps_ should be sufficiently short to
carry the bar the width of a hand above the sharp breast bone; if
lower, the bar will gall the horse’s chest. Care must be taken to have
the bar horizontal.
6. The _loin straps_ should be so fitted that the traces shall be in a
straight line when the horse is in draught.
7. The length of the _traces_ must depend on the size of the horses.
The distance between horses in a team should not be less than one yard
from nose to tail, but the traces of each pair of horses must be the
same length.
8. The _breeching_ should be fitted about 16 inches below the upper
part of the dock; it is kept horizontal by the long loin straps. When
put back in the breeching the horse should be at least a foot from the
footboard.
9. _Pole chains_ should be so fitted that when wheel horses are
standing up to their collars there is no pull on the chains. By the use
of a tug neck piece in connection with the pole bar supporting straps,
horses with wheel harness can be harnessed to G.S. wagons whether the
latter are fitted with pole chains or pole straps.
10. _The kicking strap_ should be so fitted as to give the play of a
hand’s breadth between it and the horse’s croup when he is standing in
his collar.
=55.= _Position of a driver standing to his horses and mounted._
1. The driver stands to his horses on the near side of his riding horse
in line with the fore feet, holding the reins of both horses (the
leading rein passing over the riding horse’s neck) in his right hand,
right arm extended and level with his shoulder; left arm hanging down
by his side; whip, stock upwards, in his legging.
2. On the command “PREPARE TO MOUNT,” the driver turns to his right
about, places the leading rein over the riding rein in the palm of his
left hand, puts his left foot in the stirrup, and takes hold of the
front of the saddle with his left hand and the back of the saddle with
his right; if he cannot reach the back of the saddle, he must take hold
of the flap.
With the universal reins, the riding horse’s rein is held in the full
of the hand, the end hanging down between the first finger and thumb,
little finger dividing the reins. The leading rein is held in the full
of the hand, the end hanging down from the opposite side of the hand to
that of the ride horse’s reins.
At “MOUNT” he raises himself in the stirrup, passes his right leg over
the horse and drops quietly into his saddle. He then adjusts his reins
so that he has an even feeling on both horses’ mouths, takes the whip
out of his legging with his right hand, which he passes through the
loop at the end of the stock and places on his right thigh back up,
grasping stock and thong close together, with his elbow a few inches
from his body.
_This is the position of attention, mounted._
3. On the command “SIT AT EASE,” both hands are placed on the pommel
of the saddle, the right hand holding stock and thong of whip over the
left.
4. On the command “PREPARE TO DISMOUNT” the driver places the whip in
his legging.
At “DISMOUNT.”--If the driver cannot reach the ground with his right
foot while the left is still in the stirrup, he takes both feet out of
the stirrups, and the body, at first supported by both hands, is gently
lowered to the ground. He then comes to the position of standing to his
horses.
5. On the command “STAND AT EASE,” keeping both legs straight, he
carries the left foot about one foot-length to the left, and slides the
right hand (retaining hold of the leading rein) down the riding rein of
the riding horse as far as it will go; his left hand hanging down the
thigh.
“STAND EASY.”--He fastens the leading rein to the riding rein by means
of a thumb knot.
=56.= _Use of the whip._
1. The whip is chiefly used to control the off horse: _i.e._, to start
him, to keep him in the collar, and to guide him when turning. It
should be applied lightly on to the off side of the neck just in front
of the withers, fingers closed on stock and thong.
2. The driver also salutes with his whip when at a walk, in the
following manner:--He brings it to the recover as with a sword, passes
it over the withers of the off horse, right arm extended, but with the
elbow raised and slightly bent, hand in a line with the waist, back
of the hand up and inclined to the front, fingers firmly closed on
the stock and thong. The driver should hold his body erect with the
shoulders square to the front, and look the officer full in the face.
When the salute is finished, the whip is brought to the recover and
then down to the position of attention. The salute commences four paces
from the officer, and finishes four paces beyond him. A driver when
halted, or at the trot, salutes by coming to attention and looking the
officer full in the face.
3. On rare occasions the whip may be used to punish a horse, when the
thong should be applied once on the shoulder. This procedure is seldom
justified, and is liable to upset the other five horses in the team.
At all other times the thong should be held close against the stock
with the end of the lash hanging down.
=57.= _Driving without vehicles._
1. Before recruits are allowed to drive horses in draught they should
be practised in manœuvring the team alone. The centre and wheel drivers
thus learn in the initial stages to keep the traces taut, and all
likelihood of either spoiling or overtiring horses is avoided.
2. The riding school is well suited for this training; three teams can
be worked together in an ordinary sized building, and they are more
under the instructor’s eye than in the open.
3. The positions of the drivers in the teams should frequently be
changed.
=58.= _Hooking in and unhooking._
1. Hooking in and unhooking should be done as in action, that is in
complete teams with drivers mounted, and by the same men who perform
the duty in action. The supporting bars for the poles are brought up
from the footboards of the carriages and attached to the neck pieces of
the wheelers. If possible the team should come up on the left of the
carriage, as it is easier for the wheel driver to get his horses into
position from the near than from the off side.
2. Traces should be fastened and unfastened at the swingle-trees. The
two highest available numbers at the gun and wagon respectively hook in
and unhook the teams of their own carriage. All numbers work on their
own side.
3. The inside traces of the centre horses pass over the supporting bar
to prevent the pole tipping up. When hooking in, the outside trace of
each horse is attached before the inside one. In unhooking, each man
unfastens what he fastened when hooking in, commencing where he left
off.
4. In the case of heavy artillery, should additional horses (over the
normal team of eight) be required, they should be attached to the
outriggers on the limber and not hooked in front of the team, as the
traces are not designed to stand the extra strain.
5. _Hooking in._--At “HOOK IN” the higher number holds up the pole near
the footboard, and the lower number goes round by the head of the off
wheeler, and as the wheel driver backs his horses guides the ring of
the supporting bar on to the pole. As soon as the ring is on the pole
the two gunners fasten the wheel traces (_see_ paras. 2 and 3).
_Drivers only._--The centre driver dismounts, and having secured his
leading rein to his driving rein, raises the pole at the point and
guides it into the ring on the pole bar. He then fastens the wheel
traces (_see_ para. 3).
6. _Unhooking._--The two gunners unhook the wheel traces (_see_ paras.
2 and 3), and as soon as the attachments are released, the wheel driver
gives the word “DRIVE ON.” The team drives on, allowing the pole to
fall to the ground.
_Drivers only._--The centre driver dismounts and unhooks the wheel
traces.
7. In exceptional circumstances the team can be unhooked in the
following manner. The wheel driver releases the trace attachments
of both wheel horses at the breast-collars, and the team drives on,
allowing the pole to fall to the ground. The breechings and traces
should be replaced on the horses as soon as possible.
=59.= _Traces._
1. When not in draught, the traces of lead and centre horses are
crossed in rear of the saddle and the ends passed forward under the
neck strap of the breast collar. In the case of spare horses the ends
of the traces are brought forward and fastened by the quick release
attachment to the rings on the breast collars, the short traces being
carried on the footboards of the vehicles.
In the case of wheel horses the traces are passed through the trace
bearers, then turned up under the loin straps and fastened back to the
bearers by their quick release attachment.
=60.= _Moving off._
1. On the command “MARCH” the drivers ease the reins and close their
legs to the riding horse, laying the whip over the neck of the off
horse, to ensure both horses starting together. On the command being
given every man in a team should start his horses to prevent loss of
distance.
2. In all alterations to a quicker pace the drivers use their legs on
the riding horse, and the whip on their off horse as described in Sec.
=56=.
=61.= _Halting._
1. The lead and centre drivers raise the whip hand as high as the head,
the whip horizontal across the front, as a signal to the wheel driver.
All three drivers feel their reins and take their horses out of the
collar. The wheel driver, with his right hand on the leading rein, puts
his horses back in the breeching.
As soon as the carriage stops, every horse is again put into the collar.
2. At any pace but the walk the lead and centre drivers must allow the
wheel driver sufficient time to stop the carriage before they come to
the halt.
=62.= _Wheeling to the right._
1. The lead driver wheels his riding horse by leaning his body to the
right and feeling the right rein; he brings his off horse round at the
same time by feeling the leading rein with his right hand.
The centre and wheel drivers follow the track of the lead driver,
laying their whips over their hand horses’ necks in front of the
withers to keep them from flying out or hanging back.
_Note._--On a horse that is not properly trained the lead driver may
have to apply his right leg as an additional aid. No application of the
left leg is necessary, as the traces prevent the horse’s quarters from
flying out. (_See_ Sec. =43=.)
=63.= _Wheeling to the left._
1. The lead driver wheels his riding horse by leaning his body to the
left and feeling the left rein; he brings his off horse round at the
same time by applying the whip over his neck.
The lead driver may have to apply his left leg on an untrained horse
(_see_ note above).
The centre and wheel drivers follow the track of the lead driver,
applying the same aids at the point of wheel.
Riding horses must not be allowed to hang back.
=64.= _Wheeling about._
1. In this case the drivers lean their bodies slightly back, and to
whichever side they are turning. In going to the right about the wheel
driver should take the leading rein in his right hand instead of
placing his whip over the neck of the off horse. In wheeling to the
left about it may be necessary for him to use both hands on the riding
horse to keep him from turning too soon. Otherwise the aids are the
same as for wheeling to the right or left, but are continued longer.
2. In order to prevent the carriage from locking, the wheel driver must
be very careful to keep up his hand, or riding horse, as the case may
be, and the lead driver must on no account make the circle too small.
3. Carriages should be advanced one yard before being wheeled about
from the halt.
=65.= _Unlimbering._
1. On the command “ACTION FRONT” the guns are unlimbered and brought
into action as detailed in the respective handbooks. As soon as the
limber is free, the order is given “LIMBER DRIVE ON.” The drivers
advance one yard, wheel to the right about at a trot, and proceed
direct to the wagon line.
2. On the command “ACTION RIGHT (or LEFT)” the guns are unlimbered and
the order “LIMBER DRIVE ON” is given.
The drivers advance one yard, wheel to the left (or right) and proceed
to the wagon line as directed.
=66.= _Limbering up._
1. On the command “FRONT LIMBER UP” the gun is reversed, the drivers
trot up on the right of the gun, keeping one yard clear in passing it.
When clear of the gun wheel they throw their right shoulders forward,
until the near wheel of the limber has just passed the trail eye.
They then halt and pass their horses off to the right until square, the
lead and centre drivers easing their traces sufficiently to do so.
The wheel driver must be careful not to let the limber run back on the
gun.
2. On the command “REAR LIMBER UP” the drivers trot up on the right of
the trail eye inclining to the right, if necessary, to allow room for
wheeling. The lead driver when he is level with the trail eye wheels to
his left and again to his left as soon as he has passed it. To enable
the wheel driver to wheel short round, the lead and centre drivers must
ease their traces as soon as they have passed the trail eye. The wheel
driver by holding in his riding, and keeping up his hand horse, squares
the limber, at the same time preventing it running back on the gun.
3. To limber up to the right the drivers trot up; the lead driver
passing close to the trail turns to the right when the wheel driver is
in line with it; the lead and centre drivers then case their traces and
pass their horses off until square. The wheel driver, as soon as he is
in line with the trail, turns his horses to the right. In all limbering
up the limber is halted by order of the No. 1, but the drivers must
look over their shoulders to see that the limber is properly placed.
In limbering up to the left the procedure is similar to the above
except that either the wagon or the gun must first be moved clear.
=67.= _Driving up steep hills._
1. To exert his strength to the utmost when pulling up hill, the
draught horse must get as much weight as possible forward and into the
collar. By assuming a lower and more advanced carriage of the head and
neck than he would do if moving balanced and out of draught, he is able
to add considerably to his power. He should therefore be allowed full
liberty of rein when ascending a steep hill.
2. A draught horse can put more weight into his collar if ridden.
Gunners should, therefore, be mounted on the off lead and centre horses
when circumstances demand it. All men riding draught horses up hill
should lean forward.
3. When manœuvring off the road, steep ascents should be taken in line
to avoid checks.
When on a road or track, and if circumstances permit, the battery
should be halted at the foot of the hill and sent up either by sections
or subsections, with about 10 yards’ distance between carriages.
4. On exceptional occasions, such as when the team is exhausted, an
extra pair may be hooked in to each carriage, but it must be remembered
that this is of little use unless the ascent is straight, and that in
any case it makes steady draught more difficult.
5. Should a check occur when the column is closed up, the lead drivers
in rear must be prepared to throw off their horses to the right or left.
6. The pace should be a steady walk during the whole ascent, by which
the top will be reached more easily and surely than if an attempt is
made to “_spring_” the hill.
7. The detachments can also assist with drag ropes hooked into the drag
washers, or by applying “_wheel purchases_,” if the carriage actually
sticks. To use a drag rope as a “_wheel purchase_” it is hooked round
the felloe near the lowest spoke, and is then laid on the tyre and
passed over the wheel to the front. Should the wheel slip round, a drag
rope may be wound round the felloe and tyre, with the turns about a
foot apart to enable it to get a grip.
8. After going up a steep hill, the horses should be halted, but when
this cannot be done, they should be allowed to move slowly to recover
their wind.
=68.= _Jibbing._
Horses jib from various causes, such as sore shoulders, a too heavy
load, bad driving, sore mouth, lameness, and vice.
The whip only aggravates the evil. A handful of gravel placed in the
horse’s mouth often starts a jibber pulling at once especially if the
wheels are manned at the same moment. The latter is important in any
case.
=69.= _Driving down hill._
1. In driving down hill, the lead and centre drivers hold their horses
back to allow the wheel driver the management of the carriage, but the
traces must be kept up; the wheel driver with his right hand on the
leading rein keeps his horses steadily in the breeching, taking care
not to throw them on their haunches, and, in the case of shaft draught
harness, not to let too much work fall on the off horse.
2. For moderately steep descents, the brake can be used. Should a
descent be so steep that the brake is not sufficient, the detachment
must hold on with the drag ropes hooked into the drag washers on the
gun carriage or wagon body.
=70.= _Applying the brake._
The brake should be put on sufficiently tight to check but not to skid
the wheel. In crossing a valley the man in charge of the brake must
begin taking it off soon enough for the wheels to be quite free before
the beginning of the rise on the other side is reached, or in fording a
river before the carriage gets into the water.
=71.= _Reversing in narrow roads._
Before attempting to reverse, the carriage should be drawn up as close
to the side of the road as possible. The carriage is next unlimbered,
and the lead and centre horses unhooked and taken out. The gun or wagon
body is then reversed, followed by the limber.
=72.= _Driving a pair of horses from the box._
1. When driven from the box, horses will neither work comfortably nor
be under perfect control, unless so coupled that when on the move with
an even bearing on the reins their heads are straight. The bearing of
the bits on their mouths should be light, but constant, and the reins
should never be allowed to slip through the driver’s fingers.
A pair of horses, worked as such, should frequently be interchanged.
This will prevent the acquirement of bad habits, such as pulling away
from the pole, shouldering the pole, &c.
2. _To put to._--The horses should be led up alongside the pole by the
noseband (not by the bit), the chain should then be passed through
the ring of the breast collar or kidney link of the hames. The traces
should next be fastened, the outer ones first, and finally the horses
should be poled up and coupled together. In unhooking the above
procedure is reversed.
The correct adjustment of the _coupling reins_ requires great care.
With a view to this, the outer reins have a number of holes punched
in them, up and down which the buckles of the coupling reins can be
shifted, thus enabling them to be shortened or lengthened to suit each
particular horse’s mouth. For instance, if the near horse carries his
head to the near side, the coupling rein on the off side should be
taken up, when his head will be straightened, and _vice versâ_.
3. _Sitting on the box._--The driver should sit square to his front on
the box, which should be low enough to allow of his legs being well
bent at the knee. If the box seat is too high he is liable to be pulled
off when a horse stumbles.
4. _How to hold the reins and whip._--The near rein passes over the
forefinger, the off rein between the middle and third fingers of the
left hand, both reins fall through the palm of the hand and hang loose
on the left side of the driver’s knees. The reins are kept in position
in the hand by the pressure of the third and fourth fingers assisted
by the second; the thumb and forefinger should not be used for this
purpose. The wrist should be rounded.
The whip should be held between the lower part of the thumb and the
base of the forefinger of the right hand, thus leaving the fingers
free. The point of the whip should be carried up, the stick inclined
across the body and to the front. The position of the whip should not
be changed when the right hand manipulates the reins. When required,
the right hand can be placed on the reins in front of the left, the
first and second fingers on top of the near rein, and the other two
between the reins. The former grip the near rein and the latter the off
rein.
Reins should always be shortened or lengthened from the front; _i.e._,
either pushed back through the left hand or pulled out through the left
hand.
5. _Use of the whip._--The whip should be employed as sparingly as
possible. When used, the thong should be applied on the shoulder and
drawn across from right to left, or _vice versâ_.
6. _Turning._--To turn or incline to the right, the right hand grasps
the right rein in the full of the hand, knuckles up and inclined to the
front. This gives the firmest hold and at the same time allows of the
position of the whip being maintained. To turn to the left, the left
rein is grasped in the same manner.
7. _Driving up hill._--An even and steady walk should be maintained
when travelling up a steep hill; if the load is exceptionally heavy and
circumstances permit, the horses should be allowed to incline from one
side of the road to the other as the wagon ascends.
8. _Driving down hill._--The pace cannot be too slow in descending a
hill, and the brake should not be applied until the horses take the
breeching. When the shoe is used the wheel to which it is applied
should be chained to the carriage; this prevents all chance of accident
should the shoe become unshipped when travelling over rough ground.
TRAINING THE YOUNG HORSE.
=73.= _General principles._
1. The training of the horse must be gradual, and accompanied by a
steady development of his physical powers.
It is better to give a remount two short lessons a day than one long
one, for it must be remembered that the tendons and muscles of a young,
immature animal are easily injured by too much continuous work, and
they must be gradually strengthened in order to stand the strain to
which they will be subjected.
Simplicity and suggestion should be prominent features in the first
stage of training; the horse not only has to learn the meaning of the
bridle and the leg, but must also adjust his balance to carrying a
weight on his back.
2. Free forward movement should, therefore, be the first aim of the
trainer, and as the horse learns the meaning of the bridle he should
gradually be made to move well up to it and at the same time taught to
carry his head for height in as good a position as nature will allow.
This may be called the first stage of the training, and should be
carried out on a snaffle, if available. When the horse will go forward
quietly he should be worked in the open.
3. The second stage of the training should consist in balancing and
collecting the horse, in teaching him to turn on his hocks, to passage,
to rein back, and to obey the aids quickly when ridden with one hand;
to go quietly by himself or in company and to leave other horses
freely; and where necessary to become accustomed to sword and rifle.
A few horses are naturally so well balanced, that if they have good
tempers and are properly ridden, this part of their education offers
no difficulties, but most artillery remounts will be heavy in front
and awkward to turn excepting on the forehand. For handiness and for
the safety of the rider they should be taught to carry more weight
on their hocks--in fact to move in the most balanced manner that is
possible, having regard to their make and to the retention of their
liberty of movement.
This portion of the training, or most of it, should be carried out with
the universal bridle, and while the pressure of the legs will often
have to be strong, the handling of the reins should be of the gentlest,
or the trainer will defeat his own ends.
4. The third stage of the training consists in teaching the horse to go
quietly in draught in any position in a team.
5. Patience, firmness, and pluck are necessary to all entrusted with
the training of young horses. Some horses are very much quicker at
learning than others, and no rule can be laid down; on no account
should the trainer attempt to hurry matters.
The trainer should communicate to his pupil his appreciation of any
progress made by immediately rewarding him with a handful of corn or
a carrot. Under no circumstances should he lose his temper with his
horse, and punishment should only be resorted to when it is certain
that the horse understands what he is required to do, but will not do
it.
Instructors must not imagine that the animal can learn a lesson only by
constant repetition. A horse is quick to receive new impressions, and
remembers them after comparatively few lessons, provided they are given
in a proper way.
6. As with recruits, jumping should be constantly practised throughout
the training, commencing at an early stage over very low obstacles and
always with a due consideration for the horse’s legs.
7. The same system of training is not applicable to every breed and
condition of horse. The principles, however, are the same, and must be
modified to suit the temperament of the animal, and his condition when
he reaches the trainer.
Factors, which greatly influence the duration of the training and its
ultimate success, are the capability of the rider and instructor; the
temperament, make, and condition of the horse; and the training ground
available.
=74.= _First stage._
1. Remounts arrive in all kinds of condition, and the methods adopted
with them should be those best suited to their nature, condition and
age.
The first day or two will be profitably spent by the trainer in getting
thoroughly acquainted with his pupil. A snaffle having been put in the
horse’s mouth, the trainer should lead him about, giving him confidence
and making him acquainted with his voice. He may then handle him about
the head and forehand. To prevent injuries to the mouth, it is a good
plan at this early stage to lead the horse by reins attached to the
D’s. of the head-collar, the snaffle being left to hang loosely in his
mouth. During these lessons the horse should be given a handful of corn
or green meat from time to time.
2. _Backing a remount._--As soon as the remount has become accustomed
to being led from either side and is quiet, he may be saddled, but
before he is mounted he should be allowed time to accustom himself to
the feel of the saddle.
An assistant should stand in front of the horse, holding a rein of
the snaffle in each hand; the man saddling him should hold the saddle
by the back arch with the pommel over his right hip (the stirrups and
girths having previously been thrown over the seat); he should then
place the saddle, quickly and quietly, on the horse’s back, let the
girths down, and tighten them gradually.
In backing a horse for the first time the help of two assistants is
advisable, one on the off side, who should hold the head collar in his
right hand and the off stirrup in his left, the other on the near side
holding the snaffle rein in his left hand. The trainer grasping the
back arch of the saddle in his right and the front arch in his left
hand, should stand close to his horse on the near side, and raise his
left foot up behind him by bending his knee; the second assistant will
then grasp his leg just above the ankle and raise him quietly into the
saddle on his stomach. This should be repeated several times until the
horse is accustomed to the weight, when the assistant will place the
rider’s left foot in the stirrup, who will then raise himself in the
stirrup and throw his right leg clean over the horse’s quarters and
drop quietly into the saddle; the remount should then be led a pace or
two forward by the assistant in order to accustom him to the weight
whilst moving; the rider avoiding too strong a pressure with the legs.
After two or three lessons, if the horse is quiet, the trainer may
mount with the stirrup in the usual way, great care being taken not to
touch him with the toe.
3. Considerable time and special pains should be taken to teach the
young horse to stand absolutely still when being mounted or dismounted.
In dismounting the first few times it is advisable for an assistant to
stand in front of the horse, and the rider after throwing his right
leg over to the near side should remain lying across the saddle as in
mounting, then quit his left stirrup and slide quietly to the ground.
This method will prevent any possibility of the rider sticking his toe
into the horse’s ribs, which is liable to make him unsteady.
4. During this period the trainer should devote his time to riding the
horse about at a free walk, slow trot and canter, and to teaching him
to stand still when required, and to lead easily.
To teach the remount to move forward freely at the walk, the rider
should hold his reins long and use his legs.
To teach him to stand still, constant practice and the use of an
assistant when necessary are required; the trainer should mount and
dismount from either side, time after time, not allowing the horse to
move forward immediately after mounting.
The horse should also be taught to do large circles to either hand
and practised over very small jumps and should be ridden frequently
outside barracks.
5. In exceptional cases it may be necessary to devote time to raising
or lowering the horse’s head to the right position as far as nature
will allow. It should be borne in mind that the same good carriage of
head and suppleness of neck cannot be expected of all makes and shapes
of horses.
The raising or lowering of the horse’s head must be done gradually, and
as much as possible on the move, for if done at the halt he is apt to
get behind the bit, and his freedom of action will be endangered. It
should be effected by the combined action of the legs and hands. The
legs compel the horse to move forward, drive and keep him up to the
bit; the hands through the reins and snaffle regulate the position of
the horse’s head and neck. The trainer must ride with a sympathetic
hand; that is, he must relax the pressure as soon as the horse places
his head in the required position, only retaining sufficient feeling
on the mouth to maintain the head in position. If the horse’s head
requires raising, the rider does so by holding his hands high. If the
head requires lowering, the hands are depressed, but without jerking
the reins.
6. This stage may seem tedious, but it must not be hurried. It is most
important towards moulding the horse’s future disposition, and for
building up his physical strength and preparing him for harder work
later on.
=75.= _Second stage._
1. _Balancing and collecting the young horse._--Hitherto the rider’s
only endeavour has been to teach the horse to go freely up to the
bridle keeping his head at the proper height. He must now be taught
to give to the bridle by bending his neck at the poll and slightly
yielding his lower jaw, care being taken that in yielding the head is
not lowered.
The trainer must not attempt much at one time. The longer a continuous
pressure on the reins is maintained, the less inclined is the horse
to yield, for the discomfort becomes less, the mouth losing its
sensitiveness. The application of the legs must often be strong to make
the horse yield.
A natural law of leverage governs the position of the horse’s head
as the head and neck are moved forward and downwards, the centre of
gravity of the whole horse is brought forward and he becomes heavier in
the forehand and freer or lighter behind. At a trot or canter the horse
naturally draws his head up to lighten the weight on his fore legs, and
to give them free and equal play with the hind legs.
The young horse should be trained to carry his head fairly high at the
trot and canter, and at such angle with the neck as will allow the bit
to have the best bearing on the bars of the mouth. As a horse cannot
put his fore feet down on the ground beyond his nose, he extends his
neck when galloping in order to lengthen his stride. By thus moving his
centre of gravity forward he lightens the weight on his quarters and
obtains the full propelling power of his hind legs.
A horse when jumping makes use of his neck both as an assistance in
taking off and to adjust his balance on landing; his head therefore
should remain perfectly free during every phase of the jump.
_The bending lesson_ (_see_ Sec. =44=) is useful for balancing and
collecting the young horse and for teaching him to obey the rider’s
legs. Instruction should commence either on foot or with the horse’s
head towards the wall, care being taken to make him bend correctly.
The exercises described in Sec. =46= are useful for teaching the young
horse to walk, trot and canter collectedly, but at first plenty of time
must be allowed for the horse to settle down quietly at each successive
period of cantering, trotting or walking.
2. _The rein back_ is also a useful exercise in the training of a young
horse. It collects him and teaches him to get his haunches under him,
but it should never be practised for more than a few minutes at a time,
nor should it be attempted until the horse will move well up to his
bridle.
To teach a horse to rein back, it is best to begin on foot and to
continue mounted, assisted by a man on foot.
The man on foot should stand in front of the horse and endeavour to
make him go back quietly one or two paces at a time. He should feel the
bit gently, but without a dead continuous pressure; if necessary, he
may give a light tap to the horse’s leading foreleg, should he decline
to move backwards.
When mounted, collect the horse by leg pressure and bring the weight of
the body slightly forward; feel one side (say the right) of the horse’s
mouth by the least movement of the wrist, at the same time apply the
pressure of the left leg to the horse’s side so as to prevent him from
moving his hindquarters to the left; lean the body a little to the
right, and feel both reins. As soon as the horse draws back the off
fore leg, reverse the aids until he draws back the near fore leg and so
on. The ultimate object in view is to teach him to go backwards with
his head carried as high as when going forward.
3. During this stage the remount should also be taught to change his
legs at the canter, for which purpose the figure of eight (_see_ Sec.
=46=) is a good exercise, provided the horse is first of all made to go
kindly and collectedly on the larger circle.
4. In order that the horse may retain his full freedom of movement he
should frequently be made to walk out fast and canter with a loose
rein. To make a horse walk out, ease the reins and close the legs
alternately, not both legs together as in the trot.
=76.= _Teaching a horse to stand still without being held._
A horse can be trained to stand still without being held in the
following way:--
Replace the rein with a strong piece of rope, throw the rope rein thus
made over the animal’s head, and fasten a sack to the end of it; the
effect of this is that as the horse moves forward he treads on the
sack, and gives himself a severe job in the mouth; after a few lessons
it will be found that the horse will not move when the reins are thrown
over his head, and the sack can be left off.
=77.= _Teaching the young horse to jump._
1. _General principles._--The aim of the instructor should be to teach
the horse to jump ordinary natural obstacles willingly and safely. To
this end outdoor jumping courses will be found very valuable. There
should be one with small and another with fair-sized jumps, all as much
like natural fences as possible, and laid out on cinder-tracks so as to
be available all the year round.
Jumps in the school should not only represent height, but breadth; the
horse to be useful must learn to jump out as well as up.
The secret in making a safe fencer is gradual and systematic training;
even if a horse shows great promise when first jumped his education
should in no way be hurried. He may lose his courage through an early
and unnecessary fall.
2. _First lessons._--There are many ways of commencing; if the horse
is fairly fit and will answer to the hand and leg he may be ridden
over low and simple fences at once. To avoid all chance of failure it
will, however, generally be found best to begin on foot and either to
lead or lunge him over the jump. In a school or confined space the best
method is first to lead the horse over a bar laid on the ground, and
afterwards to lead him up to it and let him go. The obstacle should be
gradually raised, always being put up firmly, and a man should stand at
the far end of the school with a basket of corn. In a very short time
most horses will jump a fence 3 feet 6 inches high with enjoyment. The
class of obstacle should be varied as much as possible as time goes on.
The lungeing whip should never be used, as the horse will watch it
instead of measuring his distance and calculating the jump.
If the single lungeing-rein and cavesson are used, the rein may be
attached to the front of the cavesson and the animal led over the
jump, or it may be fastened to a side D, when he should be made to
take the fence on the circle. If done in this way it is a good plan to
have a wing made to carry the rein over and prevent it catching in the
obstacle and checking the horse suddenly.
3. _Further training in jumping._--After a sufficient schooling
following any of the above methods, the remount may be sent down a
jumping-lane if one is available, an old horse acting as pilot on the
first occasion, or if there is no lane he may be ridden over small
fences in the open. The first jumping lessons should be given at a
trot. At this pace horses learn where to take off and jump from their
hocks without chancing a fence.
When a young but not impetuous horse is being ridden at a fence, he
should be allowed to go his own pace in reason; in this way he learns
to adopt the pace most suited to the obstacle and to get back on his
hocks for a high one.
=78.= _Third stage._
1. Before a horse is put into draught he should fulfil the following
conditions:--
i. Stand still to be mounted or dismounted.
ii. Be balanced, as well as make and shape will allow.
iii. Be able to do a figure of 8 correctly, passage, rein
back, halt collectedly; change his legs when turning, so
as to lead with the correct fore and hind leg, and when
turned about do so actively on his hocks and not on his
fore hand.
iv. Be a good jumper.
v. Be accustomed to gun fire and traffic.
vi. Go alone or in company, at any pace required of him
without pulling, and be ready to shorten his stride and
pull up when required.
2. All officers should understand how to train horses to draught.
The remount should be harnessed with great care, and led about until
the novelty has worn off. He should then be put into the hand centre in
the following manner:--
The drivers being mounted, and the remaining five horses in the team
standing just out of draught, the remount should be led up to his place
by two men, one on each side, the man on the off side holding the
horse’s head rope, which should previously have been undone. The man on
the near side should then hand the leading rein to the centre driver,
and go to the off quarters of the remount, moving round the horse’s
head to get there. He should next push the horse’s quarter gently over
until the animal stands square to its front in the team, and make much
of him. He should then take the traces quietly and hook in as described
in Sec. =58=. The remaining five horses should now be put into their
collars, and at the command “WALK MARCH” the team should move straight
to its front. The centre driver’s whip should be in his leg iron,
and he should use his right hand to make much of his hand horse. The
remount should not be asked to take the collar until he settles down
and walks along quietly, When this is the case, the man who has been
holding the head rope on the off side may knot it round the animal’s
neck. He must, however, keep with the team, and be prepared to hold
the rope or head collar again when turning is undertaken. All wheeling
should be to the left at first. When turns to the right are attempted
the greatest care should be taken to prevent the remount from running
back and getting a leg over a trace.
As soon as the animal goes quietly in the off centre, knows his work,
and understands the application of the whip as an aid, he should be put
into the hand lead and then into the hand wheel. When he goes well in
any place in the team his education is complete.
RIDING AND RETRAINING AWKWARD HORSES.
=79.= _General remarks._
Remounts joining the Service unbacked or unspoilt, unless exceptionally
vicious, ought never to come under this heading. A horse properly
trained in the first instance will only develop faults through
subsequent bad riding or ill-treatment.
The results of bad handling are shown in defective carriage and paces;
in a nervous, sulky, or irritable temperament; or in a combination of
the two.
When the animal is put back into the ranks, he should be given to a
good horseman, and if possible not be ridden by anyone else. Horses
rarely forget bad habits, and quickly relapse into them.
The work of retraining a horse is much more difficult than that of
“_making_” a young and untrained one; riders should therefore be
specially selected.
The trainer should first make himself thoroughly acquainted with the
animal’s faults, and then set to work to systematically and patiently
eradicate them. It will, in some cases, be found best to treat the
horse as untrained and begin his education afresh.
As the work will usually be of a corrective character the horse’s corn
and exercise should be carefully regulated according to his amenability
to discipline: good results cannot be obtained as long as the animal is
“above himself.”
=80.= _Pullers._
1. The usual causes of pulling are:--
i. Excitability.
ii. Pain.
iii. Fear.
iv. Freshness and want of work.
v. Hard-mouth.
vi. Bad training.
2. _Excitability._--Some horses, which are naturally of a nervous,
highly-strung disposition, become upset by unaccustomed sights and
sounds, a crowd, or galloping at a fast pace, especially in company
with other horses.
No special bit will cure this kind of puller, the only remedy is plenty
of work commencing at slow paces. Only the best horsemen in the unit,
possessing patience and good hands, should be allowed to ride them.
3. _Pain._--Another frequent cause of pulling is pain. A horse’s mouth
is most sensitive, and many horses pull through the pain caused by the
bit, or because their grinder teeth are long and sharp and thus cut the
sides of their cheeks. Horse’s mouths, especially of those who have
suddenly taken to pulling, should be constantly examined, particularly
the bars, under the tongue and close up against the grinders. A
neglected wound in the mouth may make a young horse pull or spoil his
mouth by forcing him to hold the bit on one side to protect the injured
part. If a horse’s mouth is found to be sore, he should be given a
rest, being exercised if necessary on a cavesson, and when the wound
is healed ridden for a time in a snaffle. If the grinders are long and
sharp it is a simple operation to remove the sharp points and edges
with a rasp. The corners of the lips also may become sore owing to the
bit being too narrow, or through being rubbed; the curb chain may also
injure the chin-groove, in which case the wound should first be healed
and then a guard should be used.
4. _Fear._--Some horses pull through fear. The only remedy for this is
to endeavour to accustom them to the cause of their alarm. They should
be treated kindly and only ridden by careful, patient men. If a horse
in his early training has been taught to obey the voice, this will
often be of great assistance in calming him.
5. _Freshness._--The remedy for a horse which pulls from this cause is
to give him more slow, steady work, and less food.
6. _Hard-mouth and bad training._--The best results are, as a rule,
obtained from retraining by a good horseman and plenty of school work,
especially cantering in small circles and figures of 8. If he pulls
with his mouth open, it should be shut by an adjustable noseband.
7. The great object with a puller is to get him to go collectedly. His
head should be kept up, but a dead pull on the reins must be avoided,
as this enables him to set his head and neck against the pressure on
the bit; instead, give and take to him alternately with the reins.
If a horse throws his head up, and pulls with his head in that
position, the standing martingale, properly applied, will stop him.
=81.= _Refusers._
1. Refusals may be due to any of the following reasons, or to a
combination of several:--
i. Insufficient elementary schooling.
ii. Want of heart or nerve in the rider.
iii. From the horse having been jobbed in the mouth or
unintentionally spurred when jumping, thus receiving
severe punishment for obeying the rider’s wishes.
iv. Sickened by too much jumping, especially on hard ground.
v. Seeing other horses refuse.
vi. Lameness or sore shins.
vii. Ill-fitting or too severe a bit.
viii. Sore back or badly fitting saddle.
ix. Want of heart or nerve in the horse.
x. Vice.
2. Before attempting to effect a cure every effort should be made to
diagnose the cause.
In many cases it is advisable to do a good deal of work on foot,
leading and lungeing the horse over low fences. As soon as obedience is
assured, the horse should be mounted again.
3. The best way to deal with a horse that has been unintentionally
ill-treated in the mouth is to remove the curb chain if he has one, and
to jump him over low obstacles without reins, and then gradually to
bring him on to jumping with reins.
4. A horse may sometimes refuse because he has lost his nerve
temporarily. In such a case, if he is taken three or four times over
quite a small fence, and then brought back to the original one, he will
probably jump it all right.
5. Sharp rowels may be necessary on a slug or a cur, but the liability
of the rider to spur his mount under some conditions without meaning to
do so is a disadvantage.
6. The faint-hearted or vicious horse should be treated with
resolution, and be made to feel that the rider is determined to jump.
This is communicated to the horse by holding the reins in both hands
and feeling his mouth with firmness, but not roughly or with undue
pressure, and above all by pressing him to the bit by the legs. Care
must be taken not to ride the horse slantingways at the jump or at a
spot near the outside edge of the fence; the rider should be on the
look out for the horse swerving round or running out. The horse should
be taken slowly up to within a few lengths of the fence and then put
straight at it by the rider increasing his leg pressure and decreasing
slightly the feeling on the horse’s mouth.
If he whips round, the horse should be turned back the opposite way
to face the fence, then reined back a short distance and when quite
square, put at it again. If necessary he should be helped on with the
spur without relaxing the leg pressure. Once over the fence the horse
should be made much of.
=82.= _Horses that rush at their fences._
1. Horses that persist in rushing at their fences and that get very
excited when jumping are best cured by steady, quiet practice. Such a
horse should be circled round in front of the fence as though he were
not going to jump it, until he settles down, when he may be jumped over
the obstacle.
He should be taught to stand quietly in front of a fence.
On no account should he be spurred or have his mouth jerked. After
landing over a fence he should be eased up gently to a slow pace and
never allowed to get out of hand.
He should not be jumped when very fresh.
=83.= _Horses that decline to leave the ranks, and “fretting” horses._
In addition to putting a good man on their backs such horses may be
greatly improved by being kept stabled alone and ridden alone for some
months. If a horse refuses to leave the ranks, do not slacken the reins
by pushing the hands forward, but feel his mouth and press him on with
the legs. Jogging the horse in the ribs with the heels or spurs and
slackening the reins will make him worse. It he continues to decline
to leave the ranks, rein him back two or three feet, then suddenly take
him unawares and urge him forward with leg pressure.
=84.= _Horses that decline to stand still when being mounted._
1. Such horses should be mounted and dismounted on both sides slowly,
time after time every day.
2. If the horse refuses to stand still after this treatment the
following method may be efficacious.
Put a loop under the horse’s upper lip and over the poll with a
slip knot, and when he becomes restive give it a slight jerk and
say “Steady.” The horse connects the sound of the voice with the
pain caused by the twitch, and he will learn to remain still even
without the word being said. The twitch must never be used except in
conjunction with the voice.
After doing this a few times, when mounting, the trainer should
dispense with the twitch, and with the left hand holding the reins and
the cheek piece of the bridle, should say the word “steady,” and swing
himself into the saddle, without leaving go of the cheek piece till he
is firmly seated; the horse connects the word and the pressure of the
hand on the cheek piece with the twitch, and will, as a rule, stand as
steadily as he would with the twitch still on him.
3. The best way to mount a horse that will not stand still is as
follows: With the left hand gather the reins loosely and seize the
cheek piece, hold the stirrup iron in the right hand and allow the
horse to walk round. Then place the left foot in the stirrup, and
transfer the right hand to the pommel or other part of the saddle. The
horse will then revolve in a small circle, of which the right toe of
the rider is the centre, and the latter should be able to mount without
difficulty.
=85.= _General vice and bad temper._
1. Such horses are most likely to be improved by a careful regulation
of work and feeding, by being stabled by themselves, and by gentle
treatment both in the stable and outside.
2. _Kicking and bucking._--If a horse begins to kick or buck, sit back,
and take the reins in both hands--keep the horse’s head up or pulled
right round to one side--get him on the move and away from other horses
as quickly as possible.
3. _Rearing._--If a horse starts to rear, take the reins in both hands,
lean forward and leave his mouth alone. If the rider leans his weight
on that part of the reins which passes from one hand to the other over
the withers (_see_ Sec. =39=, 4) it is an assistance. Get the horse on
the move at the first opportunity, if necessary hitting him over the
quarters, but not between the ears.
=86.= _Refractory draught horses._
1. The vices enumerated in this section should only occur in the case
of hired horses or of remounts joining on mobilization.
2. _A horse that refuses to be led up to his place in draught._--If all
persuasion fails he should be blindfolded with a horse rubber, and then
led up; the cloth should not be removed until the team starts.
3. _A horse that refuses to stand still when being hooked in._--One
fore leg should either be held up or strapped up.
4. _A horse that jibs at starting._--Jibbing has already been dealt
with in Sec. =68=. If there is plenty of time one of the horse’s fore
legs should be strapped up until he tires, and then the attempt may
be made to start him. Tapping a horse below and behind the knee is
sometimes effective.
5. _A kicker._--Use either a kicking strap or a tight bearing rein.
6. _A puller._--Use a bearing rein and side rein.[5] Both should be
fitted tight when the horse is standing still, or they will be useless
when he moves.
7. _Leaning on the pole._--A dandy brush strapped to the pole will
often cure this.
8. _Leaning away from the pole._--Change the horse’s side.
[5] Neither bearing reins nor side reins are part of peace equipment
stores, but they can be made up by the saddler.
CARE AND DISPOSAL OF SADDLERY AND HARNESS.
=87.= _Care of saddlery and harness._
1. Care should be exercised in the handling of all articles of harness
and saddlery. Saddles should not be dropped or thrown about as
fractured arches or broken side bars may result, and the usefulness of
collar pads is liable to be destroyed if subjected to unfair usage.
Minor defects should be attended to at once. Stitching should be tested
from time to time, as the life of thread is short compared with that of
leather.
Stirrup leathers should be exchanged occasionally or be shortened at
the buckle end, so as to bring the wear on fresh holes.
Girth tabs require special attention and must be renewed as the holes
wear.
2. The leather work of all saddlery should be kept soft and supple.
Seats and flaps of saddles and handled parts of reins should not be
polished. It is particularly important to keep leather girths supple
with grease.
3. It is rarely necessary to scrub leather work. Parts affected by
sweat from the horse, such as inside surfaces of breast collars,
girths, &c., should be sponged after use with clean cold water, and
then soaped.
4. Leather must not be washed with soda or in very hot water, as its
vitality is quickly affected by either; nor must it be subjected to
heat from a fire, as this destroys its durability.
5. All saddlery and harness should be taken to pieces periodically
and carefully inspected. Once or twice a year certain parts, such as
the inside of breechings, should be dubbed, the leather having first
been moistened with a sponge, and in cold weather the dubbin should be
warmed before use. After two or three days the residue of the dubbin
should be removed with a dry brush or rubber.
All leather work should be dubbed before being put away in store, and
should be overhauled from time to time, especially in hot or damp
climates.
6. Ropes, web girths and whips should be scrubbed with clean cold water
when necessary, and pipeclay should not be used on them.
Saddle blankets, panne’s, and numnahs should be placed in the sun or
wind to dry, and then beaten and brushed.
7. Steel or iron work such as bits should be wiped over immediately on
arriving in billets, stables or camp, and then rubbed with an oil rag.
This will save much subsequent trouble if done before rust has time to
form.
=88.= _Disposal of saddlery and harness in harness rooms or stables._
1. _Saddlery._--The _breastpiece_ is placed on the saddle peg, the
sides hanging straight down.
The _traces_ are folded in three equal lengths, secured by the bearing
straps, and are hung by the hooks to the Ds on the breastpiece.
The _bridle_ should be hung up complete, as on the horse’s head, the
curb hooked over the front of the bit.
The _head rope_ is hung up as on the horse.
The _saddle_ is placed on the peg cantle outwards, with the surcingle
and girth buckled as if on the horse. The stirrups hang at riding
length inside the backband of the head collar.
_Nose bags_ if not in use are kept with the other articles of horse kit.
2. _Harness._--The _saddles_ are hung from the pegs, the blankets being
placed over the pegs and under the breast collars.
The _breast collar_ is hung on the harness peg by the padded neck strap
under the blanket. In the case of lead harness the short traces are
hooked to the end link of the chains attached to the tugs and hang
straight down. The traces are hung by hooking the Ds on to small pegs
on each side of the harness peg.
The _bridle_ is hung on the harness peg as if on the horse’s head--the
reins should hang down from the bit.
The _head rope_ is hung up as on the horse.
The _breeching_ is hung under the padded neck strap.
The _legging_ is hung on the same peg as the inside trace of the riding
set, by the top strap, which is buckled; the other straps are left
unbuckled ready to put on.
The _whip_ is hung by the hand loop on the same peg as the inside trace
of the hand set of harness.
=89.= _Disposal of saddlery and harness in bivouac._
1. _Saddlery._--The _saddle_ complete is placed on the ground resting
on the pommel; the stirrup irons are hooked on the points of the side
bars.
The _bridle_ is placed with the head piece of the bit on the side bars.
The whole is wrapped in the harness wrapper.
2. _Harness._--_Harness and saddlery_ are to be laid down one yard
in rear of the line of heel pegs. The _breast collar_ is placed on
its lower edge in a circle. The _breeching_ is coiled round it. The
traces are round the breeching. The _saddle_ is placed on top, seat
uppermost, the bottom of the flaps being turned up inwards--this keeps
the breast collar from being crushed when the harness is tied up.
The whole of the head gear is laid across the top of the seat.
The _legging_ is placed inside the breast collar under the saddle of
the riding set. The _whip_ is placed inside the breast collar of the
hand set. The whole is wrapped in the harness wrapper.
CARE OF WAGONS.
=90.= _General instructions._
(_See also Handbooks of the various guns._)
1. It is only by giving constant attention to the vehicles that
transport service can be efficient.
The axles and the pipe-boxes of wheels should be frequently greased,
and should be kept free of dust, grit and old grease which contains
small particles of metal and sand, that wear down the surrounding parts.
2. To grease the axle, remove the wheel and carefully clean the axle
and inside of the pipe-box. Then smear the inside of the pipe-box and
the outside of the axle with fresh grease and replace the wheel.
3. Wheels, showing too much play on the axletree arm, should have a
leather or steel washer placed on the arm at the outer end of the
pipe-box, between it and the linch-pin washer.
In very dry climates it may be necessary at times to keep the wheels
constantly wetted to prevent the woodwork warping, cracking and
shrinking.
LOADING A WAGON OR CART.
=91.= _General instructions._
1. _Wagons._--The battery commander should have an inventory of what
each wagon is to carry made out the day previous to a march, unless
they are G.S. wagons horsed and loaded according to the official tables
in the Field Service Manual. Bulk as well as weight must be taken into
consideration in assessing the loads, this is necessary to secure good
packing and efficient transport service. The weights of the various
articles are given in the Field Service Manual.
The load which is to go in each wagon should be placed beside it before
the packing begins. An experienced man should then get up into the
wagon and name the articles in the order in which he wishes them to be
handed up to him. When the packing is complete the tarpaulin should be
roped carefully over the wagon to ensure against wet and loss.
2. _Loading a two-wheeled cart._--Care should be taken that the cart
when loaded is properly balanced. There should be a weight of about
10 lbs. on the tugs. If the load is placed too far forward, the off
horse is unnecessarily weighted: if too far back, draught becomes more
difficult.
SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR MOUNTAIN ARTILLERY.
=92.= _Position of driver._
1. On parade the driver stands to attention on the near side of his
mule, holding the loop of the rein in his left hand, which should hang
down by his side; while with the right hand he takes hold of the double
rein about 6 inches behind the mule’s jaw, keeping the animal’s head in
its natural position.
“STAND AT EASE.”--Keeping both legs straight, carry the left foot about
one foot-length to the left as at dismounted drill, and slide the right
hand down the rein to the full extent of the arm.
“MARCH.”--Every driver will at once step off as at dismounted drill,
causing the mule to start off steadily at the same time by a gentle
feeling of the leading rein. He will march abreast of his mule, and
should rarely pull at the leading rein, as mules move best with a loose
rein and require a light hand.
“HALT.”--The driver halts as at dismounted drill, coming to the
position of attention and halting the mule at the same time by a gentle
pressure on the leading rein. Drivers should be taught to lead their
mules from either side.
To salute when passing an officer, a driver should look towards him
without moving his hand or altering his position.
=93.= _Fitting saddlery of ordnance mules._
1. The saddle should be placed in the middle of the mule’s back so
as to interfere as little as possible with its free action. The two
pannels should contain the same quantity of stuffing, should feel
elastic, and have an even bearing on the back and sides throughout. It
is best to have a distinct channel between the pannels along the top of
the mule’s back; the broader the channel the better.
The pannels should be so fitted that the saddle rides level along the
mule’s back as low as possible. They must not pinch the withers, nor
touch the backbone, and should allow of at least three fingers being
inserted in front and rear of the saddle.
2. _Girths._--Should be crossed beneath the mule, and should be drawn
slightly tighter than with riding saddles, but should be loose enough
to allow one finger to be inserted between them and the mule’s body
when the load is on.
3. _Breast-piece and breeching._--Should hang from their supporting
straps as horizontally as possible at such a height as will not impede
the free action of the limbs or breathing.
4. _Crupper._--Should not be tighter than is necessary to keep the
saddle from shifting forward, and should be loose enough to admit the
breadth of the hand between it and the mule’s croup. Care must be taken
that none of the mule’s hair remains between it and its dock. The dock
of the crupper must at all times be kept very soft and pliable.
5. _Bits_, _head collar_, and _curb chain_ as for horses.
6. _Leading rein._--To be fastened to both rings of bridoon bit. The Ts
of the rein passed through from inside to outside, the reins double in
the driver’s right hand, loop of rein in left hand.
The following method of attaching the rein to the bridoon bit may be
adopted to gain more control over restive mules and to prevent mules
stampeding when under fire, etc.:--
i. Pass one of the Ts of the rein through the near ring of
the bit from inside to out.
ii. Pass the other T through the off ring of the bit from
outside to in and then through the near ring from inside
to out.
The rein can now be used in the ordinary way; when, however, it is
required to restrain a restive mule, or it is apprehended that mules
may be frightened by coming under fire or otherwise, pull the T of the
near rein, thus pulling the rein through the near ring of the bit, pass
the loop of the rein in round the mule’s nose and haul fairly taut. The
rein is now single in the driver’s hand, and when hauled on, compresses
the mule’s nose and stops him.
=94.= _Training young mules._
1. Young mules are naturally timid and easily startled, but they are,
as a rule, docile and easily broken in, if treated with great kindness
and patience. Rough treatment of any kind must be avoided as likely
to prove fatal to the successful training of the mule. Men must be
carefully selected to break remount mules, and gunners will assist, if
the drivers are natives, so as to accustom the mules to be handled by
Europeans.
2. Saddling must be done at first with great caution, the saddle only
being placed gently on the mule’s back and moved about quietly so as
to accustom the animal to the feel of it before putting on the girths.
In girthing up care must be taken not to draw the girths so tight as
to cause any uneasiness to the mule, which will then be walked about
and allowed to get used to the saddle before the other harness is
gradually added. With the crupper especially great patience must be
exercised, as it is likely at first to upset a timid mule.
3. A mule should be thoroughly accustomed to walking about with the
saddle and harness before it is tried under a load. It is as well
to start training a mule to carry loads by using two bags of sand
or earth, weighing 80 lbs. each, and when it walks about with these
quietly the training can be completed by substituting other loads. A
young mule should always be allowed to become familiar with the sight
of a load before this is tried on the saddle.
4. Young mules should accompany the battery on all hill parades from
the first to accustom them to difficult ground and train their head and
wind for hill work. They should be barebacked at first and when broken
to the saddle should be saddled for parade.
5. They should not be loaded on the hillside till five years old, and
at first the load should be a light one and only carried for a short
distance; it should be gradually increased up to the full weight which
the mule will be required to carry.
6. Finally, young mules must be trained to jump small ditches and
similar obstacles without hesitation, and, at the end of the training,
this should be done with a load on. In leaping a mule, the rein must
always be left loose and a whip should not be used.
=95.= _Leading mules._
1. On good ground pack animals should always move closed up to their
proper distance, but in going up or down hill and in crossing difficult
ground the drivers will increase their distance and regulate their pace
as circumstances may require. Should any mules appear distressed, they
should be halted to enable them to recover their breath.
2. The driver should always give the mule a long rein when moving over
rough or hilly country; this is quickly effected by the driver letting
go the rein with the right hand, seizing the T-piece from the outside
of the ring of the bit and pulling the rein through. In difficult
ground the gunners will assist by steadying the loads and helping the
mules along. It may even be necessary to unload the mules and carry the
loads over an obstacle by hand. It is frequently advisable to attach
drag ropes to top loads when descending steep places.
For ascents the driver must tighten the breastpiece and loosen the
breeching of his mule, and for descents he will tighten the breeching
and loosen the breastpiece. This can be quickly done without halting by
means of the chain attachments of the breastpiece and breeching.
3. When a halt is ordered, any driver who has lost ground will continue
to move with his mule until he has recovered his proper distance.
Closing up to recover distance must be done steadily and by a gradual
increase of pace, not by rushing. Trotting should not be allowed except
by order.
When halting on hill roads, mules should be turned to stand level
across the roads with their heads outwards from the hillside. If the
width of the road does not admit of this, the drivers must stand to
the head of their mules and keep them from turning, so as to avoid
accidents.
4. It will happen sometimes on narrow roads that the driver must
march in front of his mule. When this is the case, he must resume his
position beside the mule and close up again to his proper distance as
soon as the road widens sufficiently.
5. If a load becomes disarranged, the driver will fall out to the most
convenient flank as soon as he can find room on the road, and when the
load has been readjusted, he will, as soon as practicable, regain his
place in column.
When a laden mule falls, its head should be held down to prevent it
struggling, and the load must be removed before the mule is allowed
to get up. In very difficult or dangerous ground the saddle should be
removed as well as the load.