EQUITATION AND DRIVING.
=25.= _Standard required of men and horses._
1. The efficiency of horse and field artillery depends so largely on
the riding of the men and on the training and condition of the horses
that the maintenance of a high standard of equitation must be the aim
of the commander of every unit.
2. Horsemanship and horsemastership are as essential to success as
good eyesight or a knowledge of gunnery. The development of a horse’s
powers by means of a progressive course of physical training and by the
adoption of uniform methods of control is as important as the training
of a man to ride.
3. Horsemastership is a necessary qualification for all artillery
commanders, and horse-training should also be studied to ensure a high
standard of equitation in a unit. Every section commander should be
capable of instructing his men in horsemastership. In addition to being
good military horsemen and instructors in riding, all officers must be
able to train and direct the training of remounts.
4. The qualifications of a good horseman from an artilleryman’s point
of view, are as follows:--
i. He should have a strong seat, quite independent of the reins;
in this way alone can he have good hands.
ii. He must understand and be able to apply correctly the “_aids_”
by which the horse is controlled.
iii. He must be a good groom, have a practical knowledge of the care
of horses both in barracks and in the field, and must understand
how to detect and treat the minor ailments to which horses are
liable.
iv. He should be able to cover long distances on horseback
with the least possible fatigue to his horse.
If a driver, he should be able to drive a pair of horses in any
position in a gun team and make them do even work, without distressing
them. He should also be able to get a fallen horse out of harness or
out of a ditch.
No mounted man who does not attain this standard can be considered a
really efficient horseman.
In every unit a limited number of men should be able to train an
unbroken horse, and improve a badly-trained one.
5. The requisites of a useful artillery horse are as follows:--
i. He must be a quiet ride, and capable of conveying a heavy
weight over long distances, without undue fatigue.
ii. Handy and quick in obeying the correct “_aids_.”
iii. Steady both in and out of the ranks or team and capable of
being ridden with one hand at any pace either in the company
of other horses or alone.
iv. Be a good jumper and ready to face water and swim.
=26.= _Horsemastership._
1. _General instructions._--The importance of being a good horsemaster
should be impressed upon the mind of every recruit from the moment of
his joining. He should understand that the efficiency of any body of
mounted troops on service depends first and foremost on the condition
of each horse, and that one tired horse in a gun team puts more work
on the other five, and may necessitate extra weight being put on some
other vehicle.
This important part of the soldier’s education demands individual
attention on the part of every battery officer and non-commissioned
officer, and it is their duty to see that the principles of
horsemastership are so thoroughly explained to each man that the care
of his horse becomes a second nature.
The recruit should receive careful instruction in the prevention and
cure of the minor ailments of a horse, in his feeding and watering,
and in his treatment on the march, in the field and in quarters. (_See
also_ Animal Management.)
2. _Watering._--Men should be impressed with the importance of watering
their horses when opportunity offers, particularly on hot days. Many
a horse has died on service through his rider not taking what proved
to be the only chance of giving him water during a long day. Horses
which are accustomed to be watered in buckets drink slowly at a shallow
stream, and consequently they should be given plenty of time. They
never suffer ill-effects from being watered when heated, unless they
are put to very severe exercise soon after it or are left to stand and
get chilled.
All horses will benefit if water is available in their stalls.
3. _Feeding._--Every opportunity should be taken when on service, or
on a long march or field day to allow the horses to water and feed.
Even a few mouthfuls of grass during a five minutes’ halt are worth
consideration.
4. _Weight off the back._--Even the lightest driver is a heavy burden
(generally more than 11 stone including the saddle), and every minute
that weight is removed from the horse’s back is a refreshing period of
relief.
Instructors should impress this on recruits by frequently making them
dismount for a few minutes at a time, so that it may become second
nature with them to dismount and walk a good deal, especially down
hill, if they should be called upon to work alone at any time. It
should hardly ever be necessary for a man to remain on his horse at the
halt, except in the case of teams that may come under fire.
5. _Off saddling._--The two most frequent causes of sore backs are:--i.
continued friction on one spot; ii. the stoppage of the circulation by
continued pressure. Either of these is liable to occur if the saddle is
left on for hours without being shifted or the girths slackened.
The “_off saddle_” can be effected very rapidly by all outriders and by
horse artillery gunners if it be regularly practised. It is advisable
in warm weather to do so once a day on the drill ground, or in the
open county, whenever the horses are absent from their stables for
any length of time. When the saddles are removed, the backs should be
immediately hand-rubbed, slapped, or massaged by means of the flat of
the hand for a few minutes, with steady pressure against the direction
of the hair, in order to restore circulation. In cold weather, the
girths should only be slackened, and the saddle shifted, as its removal
may result in a chill.
The horses of gun teams cannot readily be off saddled, but any
opportunity for loosening their girths and shifting the saddles should
be taken. Such action relieves the horses in the same way that the
removal of a tight boot does a man.
6. _Shoeing._--From the first men should be taught to pay attention to
their horses’ shoes, both in stables and in the field. The least sign
of a shoe loose or clinches broken or knocked up should be reported and
put right without delay.
A shoe lost in the field is a reflection on the man in charge of the
horse as well as on the section commander, No. 1 and farrier.
7. _Rolling in the sand._--Nothing rests a horse and freshens him up
more than a good roll in the sand, and, when it can be arranged, a sand
bath in barracks is most useful for teaching horses to roll in when
sweating. The bath should be about 20 feet square, with sand 1 foot
deep. A handful of sand poured over the back often induces a horse to
lie down and roll. After rolling, any sand remaining on the horse’s
back must be removed before he is again saddled.
=27.= _Paces of the horse._
1. The following are the regulation paces for drill and manœuvre:--
i. Walk 4 miles an hour, at which rate 117 yards are passed
over in 1 minute, or ¼ mile in 3 minutes 45 seconds.
ii. Trot 8 miles an hour, at which rate 235 yards are passed
over in 1 minute, or ¼ mile in 1 minute 52 seconds.
iii. Gallop is 12 miles an hour, at which rate 352 yards are
passed over in 1 minute.
2. The canter, about 9 miles an hour, and the jog or slow trot, 6 miles
an hour, should be constantly employed, both in teaching recruits to
ride and in training young horses. Except in the case of artillery
moving with infantry horses should always be made to walk up to the
regulation pace of 4 miles per hour.
3. In marching, especially along a road, and when men are riding singly
or in small groups not at drill a much slower trot should be used than
the regulation drill or manœuvre trot of 8 miles per hour.
=28.= _Terms used in equitation._
1. “_Right rein_” and “_Left rein_.”--A horse is said to be on the
“_right rein_” when he is going round the school to the right, or
on a circle to the right. The term “_left rein_” is used when he is
proceeding to the left in a similar manner.
To avoid confusing the pupils the instructor as far as possible should
use the terms “Right” or “Left” instead of “Outward” or “Inward” when
giving explanations.
2. “_The true canter_” is a pace of three time. The legs of the horse
should move in such a manner that whichever fore leg leads, the hind
leg on the same side also leads. (_See_ Sec. =43= (8)).
3. “_The true gallop_” is a pace of four time, in which the feet
follow one another in succession, with an interval of suspension
between the coming down of the leading fore foot and that of the
opposite hind foot. As when cantering whichever fore leg leads, the
hind leg on the same side must also lead.
4. “_Cantering disunited_” or “_galloping disunited._”--When a horse is
cantering or galloping in such a way that the leading hind leg is on
the opposite side to the leading fore leg, _e.g._, when he leads with
the off fore and near hind leg, he is said to be “_disunited_.” It is
a common fault with bad riders in changing the bend of their horses
to allow them to change their fore legs but not their hind legs. This
results in the horse going “_disunited_,” a faulty action which should
not be allowed.
5. “_Cantering false_” or “_galloping false._”--A horse is said to be
cantering false or galloping false, when at either of these paces, he
goes on a circle to the left with the off fore and off hind leading, or
to the right with the near fore and near hind leading.
6. _Balance._--A riding horse on the move is said to be balanced when
he carries his head and neck in the right position for balancing his
weight and that of his rider.
7. _Collected._--A horse is said to be collected when he is made to
bring his limbs properly under him so that he has the maximum control
over them. The collected paces are the school, or regulation, walk or
trot, and the canter. The extended paces are the walk out, the trot
out, and the gallop.
FITTING SADDLERY.
(_See also_ Animal Management.)
=29.= _How to fit a saddle._
1. There are four axioms in saddle-fitting:--
i. The withers must not be pinched or pressed upon.
ii. The spine must have no pressure on it.
iii. The shoulder-blade bones must have free and
uncontrolled movement.
iv. The weight must not be put on the loins, but upon
the ribs through the medium of the muscles
covering them.
2. In fitting a saddle the bare tree should first be placed on the
back, the front arch resting in the hollow behind the shoulder.
The arch and seat should be clear of the spine. This is not always
possible with horses possessing high withers, but it is desirable in
order to ascertain the fit of the side bars.
The front arch must be wide enough to admit the hand on either side of
the withers, and its points must clear the ribs.
The side bars must not be too long and must bear evenly on the back, or
as nearly so as possible. Care must be taken that their edges do not
press the withers or ribs.
3. The numnah pannels should then be fitted on and the tree replaced on
the back, but without a blanket.
The proper thickness of the blanket having been estimated, it is folded
and placed on the horse’s back with the tree on it. The blanket must be
pressed up well into the front arch, and before girthing up it should
be noticed whether the burrs are off the shoulders and the fans off the
loins; if they are not, the thickness of the blanket beneath the side
bars must be increased by turning it up on either side.
4. The girths should now be pulled up and a man placed in the saddle.
The first thing to ascertain is whether there is freedom from wither
pressure. The hand must readily find admission beneath the blanket and
over the top and along both sides of the withers. To make the test
effective, the man should lean forward, and the examiner must not be
satisfied with anything less than the introduction of his entire hand.
The next thing is to ascertain whether there is freedom for
shoulder-blade bone pressure. This is done by passing the hand beneath
the blanket to the play of the shoulder. It should be possible to
advance the horse’s foreleg to its full extent without the examiner’s
fingers being pinched between the blade-bone and side-bar, even if
the man is leaning forward in the saddle. If the fingers are pinched
the blade-bone will also be pinched, and the saddle must be raised by
fitting thicker numnah pannels on the side bar or by an extra fold of
blanket.
5. To ascertain whether the pressure of the side-bars is evenly
distributed, the saddle, having been ridden in for about half an hour,
is carefully ungirthed, and the tree lifted from the blanket without
disturbing it. The blanket will be found to bear the imprint of the
side-bars, and a glance will show whether they are pressing evenly from
top to bottom and from front to rear.
The examination must be made without delay, as the elasticity of the
blanket soon causes it to lose the impression of the side-bars.
If there is a deeper impression on one part of the blanket than
elsewhere, the pressure is not evenly distributed, and a sore back is
liable to result.
Irregularity in the fit of the side-bars may be remedied by the
introduction of pieces of numnah to fill up the space between the
side-bars and the blanket.
In peace these strips of felt can be fixed in position with glue, but
in the field they may have to be tied on, or secured with tacks, or
best of all, bound in position by means of a piece of leather (basil)
which can be tacked to the edge of the side-bar or laced with string
across the top.
By means of these strips of felt the most radical alterations in the
fit of a side bar can be effected in a few minutes by a man who has no
technical skill.
=30.= _Saddling._
1. The _saddle_ should be placed in the middle of the horse’s back; the
front of it so much behind the withers as not to interfere with the
play of the shoulder.
The fans should clear the back, and the front arch should clear the
withers to the breadth of not less than 2 fingers when the rider is in
the saddle. The saddle, to afford a suitable seat for the rider, should
have a level bearing on the horse’s back.
2. The _blanket_ is not to rest on the horse’s withers, but should be
slightly raised by placing the hand under it.
It can be folded in several ways. With a horse of normal shape and
condition the following method is recommended:--The blanket is folded
lengthways in three equal folds, one end is then turned over 24 inches,
and the other turned into the pocket formed by the folds; the blanket
thus folded is placed on the horse’s back with the thick part near the
withers. Size when folded 2’ O“ × 1’ 8”, when unfolded 5’ 5“ × 4’ 8”.
The folding of the blanket may be modified to suit special horses and
to meet alterations in shape consequent upon falling way in condition,
or from other causes. In the case of a horse which has fallen away
in condition, and for certain shapes of back, a useful method is the
“_channel fold_” The blanket is folded lengthways in three equal parts,
each end is then turned over and folded towards the centre (two or
three folds may be taken as required to suit the horse’s back), leaving
a channel in the centre.
3. The _girth_ should be sufficiently tight to keep the saddle in its
place and no tighter. In saddling a horse, the girth must be tightened
gradually, and not with violence. It is recommended that the girths of
all except young and growing horses should be fitted with the buckle in
the second or third hole from the free end of the tab.
4. The _surcingle_ should lie flat over the girth, and be no tighter
than the latter.
5. _Adjustment of the “=V=” attachment._--The =V= attachment, fitted
to the saddle as issued, admits of limited adjustment to suit the
conformation of the horse.
The front straps of the =V= attachment, Marks II and III, should not be
buckled and unbuckled daily when girthing, nor utilised for shortening
or lengthening the girth.
The normal position of the attachment is with the buckle in the centre
hole of the three--6½ inches from the rivet--this position will suit a
very large number of horses; the upper and lower holes are provided for
the adjustment; additional holes are not to be punched.
On animals with straight shoulders that carry the saddle too far
forward, the strap should be buckled in the lower hole.
On animals that have deep chests and sloping shoulders, and are thick
in front of the saddle, the front strap should be worn long.
But in no case is it to be worn as a true =V=, _i.e._, the front and
rear straps of equal length, which would depress the hinder part of the
saddle, and cause other difficulties.
Care should be taken in all cases to buckle the “near” and “off” straps
in corresponding holes.
=31.= _Bridling._
1. Care should be taken to fit each horse with a bit of the correct
size. A narrow bit pinches the horse’s lips, and a wide bit moves from
side to side and bruises them.
The bit should be fitted so that the mouthpiece is 1 inch above the
lower tusk of a horse, and 2 inches above the corner tooth of a mare.
This can only be laid down as a general rule, as much depends on the
shape and sensitiveness of the horse’s mouth and on his temper.
2. Figs. 1 and 2 represent bits, with and without a port, with a
section of the horse’s tongue and lower jaw.
The tongue is less sensitive than the bars of the mouth. A straight
mouthpiece, Fig. 1, rests on the tongue and bars of the mouth. When
the reins are pulled the tongue is able to take the greater part of
the pressure. A mouthpiece with a port, Fig. 2, rests chiefly on the
bars. When the reins are pulled the tongue slips into the port and is
unable to relieve the bars of the greater part of the pressure. A bit
with a straight mouthpiece is therefore less severe than one with a
port.
[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
[Illustration: FIG. 2.]
3. The _curb_ should be laid in the chin-groove and be so adjusted
that when the bit is pulled back to its greatest extent the angle
which the bit forms with the mouth should never exceed 45° even with
the lightest-mouthed horse, and should vary between that and 30°
according to the degree of hardness of the mouth. The curb should be
fixed permanently on to the off curb-hook. The chain should be adjusted
by twisting it to the right, putting the last link on to the near
curb-hook, and then taking up as many more links as may be necessary.
It should admit two fingers easily between it and the jawbone.
4. The _headstall_ should be parallel to and behind the cheek-bone.
5. The _noseband_ should be the breadth of two fingers below the
cheek-bone and should admit two fingers between it and the nose.
6. The _throat lash_ should fit loosely, being only sufficiently tight
to prevent the headstall slipping over the horse’s ears.
7. The _reins_ should be of such a length that when held by the middle,
in the full of the left hand, with a light feeling of the horse’s
mouth, they will touch the rider’s waist.
=32.= _Miscellaneous details._
1. The _head rope_ is put on as follows:--The point of the rope is
passed through the lower ring of the jowl piece from the near to
the off side, and then through its own ring. It is next passed over
the horse’s neck from the off to the near side, and fastened off by
doubling back the end, and laying the loop so formed on the standing
end of the rope 6 inches from the ring. The free end is then wound
round the three returns, passed through the loop, and the loop is
hauled taut to it. The number of times the free end is wound round the
returns will vary according to the length of the horse’s forehand.
_Special for mountain artillery ponies._--Buckle the strap at the end
of the rope, buckle down, to the rear D of the head collar: pass the
free end from off to near side over the animal’s neck, fasten off by
doubling a piece of the rope long enough to make five complete turns,
and lay this loop on the standing end of the rope 6 inches from the
brass ring; the free end is now wound five times completely round the
three returns, and passed down through the loop which is hauled taut to
it. The bight of the rope is fastened off the front D on the saddle by
a leather tie.
2. The _wallets_ (officers only) are to be placed on the pommel of the
saddle with the hollowed side of the connecting piece to the front. The
wallet strap is to be passed from the rear through the rearmost staple
on the saddle, then through the rear keeper of the wallet, next through
the front staple of the saddle, and finally through the front keeper of
the wallet and buckled, the point of the strap pointing to the rear,
the buckles being in line with the front edge of the wallet.
3. The _sword frog_ is attached to the rear arch of the saddle on the
near side, the girth being passed through the steadying strap.
4. The _breast-piece_ should hang horizontally from the supporting
straps, the bottom of it about 1 inch above the point of the shoulder,
and should admit the breadth of the hand between it and the horse’s
chest.
5. The _breastplate_ should be so fitted that the upper edge of the
rosette or leather is the breadth of three fingers above the sharp
breast bone, and it should admit the breadth of the hand between it and
the flat of the shoulder.
6. The _martingale_ should be used only for exceptional horses. It may
be either running or standing, according to which suits the horse the
better.
It should be of such a length that it will not interfere with the horse
until he gets his head above the proper position. If it is shorter than
this it will tend to make him set his head and neck, and lean against
it.
If a running martingale is used on reins other than those sewn to the
bit or bridoon they should be fitted with “stops” to prevent the rings
of the martingale getting caught by the buckles or studs, which fasten
the reins to the bit or bridoon.
Running martingales should, as a rule, be put on the bit reins and
sufficiently loose to have no bearing on the reins till the horse
attempts to raise his head.
The standing martingale should, as a rule, be fastened to the noseband,
but under exceptional circumstances it may be fastened to the bridoon
or cheek of the portmouth bit.
RIDING.
=33.= _General instructions._
1. The instructions should be divided into three periods, and the pupil
should be gradually advanced from one to the other.
The proper sequence of instruction is a matter of extreme importance,
in order to obtain early and satisfactory results and to avoid spoiling
horses.
2. The first period should be devoted to the attainment of a firm seat
independent of the reins, and its natural consequence--suppleness of
the body from the hips upwards. Individual instruction should be the
rule during this period.
It is important to give the recruit confidence from the first, and to
start with he should be given a quiet, well-trained horse. He should
be allowed a saddle and stirrups for the first few days, after which
some of his work each day should be without stirrups. The greater part
of the instruction at this stage should be without reins. To save the
horse’s mouth the pupil should only be allowed to hold his reins when
he is riding with stirrups.
As soon as the recruit begins to be at home in the saddle and can rise
in his stirrups, cantering and jumping should commence.
3. Before he enters the second period the recruit should be able to
control his horse in straightforward movements and simple turns in
the school or manège and be able to ride over low jumps at all paces
without reins. From now onwards a considerable portion of the work
should be outside the riding school.
This second period should be devoted to teaching what are commonly
called the “_aids_,” _i.e._, the use of the hand and lower part of the
leg and the distribution of the rider’s weight to indicate the rider’s
will to his horse. (_See_ Sec. =43=.)
The instructor should aim at cultivating freedom and elasticity in the
shoulders, arm, and wrists. Stiff shoulder-action cramps the play of
the elbow-joints and wrists and makes good hands impossible.
The recruit should be instructed to keep the knee firm to the saddle
when the lower part of the leg is used.
4. In the third period more advanced instruction in horsemanship is
given. This should commence when the pupil has attained to suppleness
of the body and the limbs, and consists in combining the play of both
so that the rider may learn to move in unison with his horse.
Exaggerated movement of any sort must be discouraged, and the necessity
of quietness and of sitting still emphasized. The best horsemen attain
their ends with the minimum of exertion to themselves and to their
horses.
During this period the horse artillery recruit should be taught to use
his sword, and mounted men should receive instruction in riding with
the rifle.
5. After the first few lessons the recruit’s horse should be constantly
changed, and he should not be passed in riding until the average animal
goes pleasantly with him at any pace.
Concurrently with his instruction in riding the recruit should be
taught the principles of saddling and bitting, also the points of the
horse and other elementary but useful knowledge connected with horses
and stables.
6. By following out the methods described an average man, with careful
individual instruction, should be able to ride at a trot and canter and
over small jumps without reins after about 30 continuous lessons. He
should be fit for dismissal in about 60 lessons.
=34.= _Hints to instructors._
1. It is necessary that an instructor should himself be a practical
horseman.
2. Recruits should be carefully taught from the first how to put on
and fit their saddles and bridles. The ill effects resulting from bad
fitting saddlery should be explained to them.
Examples of horses badly saddled and bridled should be shown to the
men, and they should be made to point out what is wrong, and how
the mistake should be put right, _e.g._, if the front tab of the
=V=-shaped girth attachment is not buckled tightly up, the saddle will
slip forward. They should also be taught clearly how the bit acts on
the bars of the mouth, and how it should be fitted.
3. An instructor should be mounted, and in addition to a short verbal
description, should give a practical illustration of what he requires.
A recruit who may have great difficulty in learning his work by mere
verbal instruction will quickly do so by copying an expert horseman.
4. A feature of all instructional work should be its quietness; an
instructor should never shout and must always keep his temper. He must
endeavour from the first to create a spirit of emulation amongst his
pupils, and avoid keeping the more forward amongst them back for the
sake of the others.
5. An instructor should aim at making his lesson progressive, and as
interesting as possible. In order to give recruits confidence, they may
be allowed occasionally to amuse themselves in the riding school with
their horses, by doing anything they like without interference from the
instructor, beyond his taking care that the horses are not ill-treated.
When teaching men in the open they should be encouraged to ride about
independently, so as to get into the habit of making their horses
go where they like and do what they wish. As the men improve, the
instructor should accustom them to riding under as varied conditions as
possible.
6. The first portion of the early training can be pushed on much more
quickly in a riding school than in the open. The horses are under
better control, the nervousness natural to beginners and usually felt
by recruits is greatly lessened, for they know that the horse cannot
run away, and there is nothing to distract the attention of men or
horses. The more advanced training must, however, always be carried out
in the open, in order that the pupil may learn real control over his
horse and improve his hands.
7. The first object of the instructor is to give his pupils confidence,
to teach them balance, the knee and thigh grip, and to sit well down
in the saddle. The lungeing whip should not be allowed inside the
school, it does more harm than good, frightens the other horses and
upsets the men; if necessary, the recruit should be allowed to carry a
stick or whip. No riding school lesson should exceed one hour.
8. Falls should be avoided: they tend to spoil the beginner’s nerve
and retard his progress. To this end the recruit’s stirrups should be
connected in the initial stages by a strap passing under the horse’s
belly, of such a length that the man’s knees are not drawn away from
the saddle. The strap saves falls, because it prevents the rider’s legs
from flying out far in any direction and the confidence it engenders
enables him to acquire balance more quickly. It should not be used when
jumping obstacles over 2 feet high.
9. More horses are spoilt from being “_jobbed_” in the mouth than
from any other cause; particularly when jumping; hence the immense
importance of teaching the men from the first to leave their horses’
heads alone except for the purpose of control and for applying
particular aids.
Men may, with advantage, be taught to ride with their reins fully long.
10. An instructor should be careful not to keep horses reining back,
passaging, or bending for more than a few minutes at a time. Generally
speaking, half the length of the school is sufficient for one of these
exercises.
11. In order to teach a man to have a strong seat, with the knee firmly
in the saddle, and at the same time to keep his feet pressed down
home in the stirrups with the leathers practically taut, he should
frequently be practised in standing up in his stirrups. At first this
should be done with the horse standing still, the man resting his hand
on the horse’s neck, if necessary, to assist his balance. Afterwards at
the walk, trot and canter.
=35.= _Preliminary training._
1. Before a recruit is allowed to mount a horse his riding muscles
should, if possible, have been strengthened on a wooden horse, either
under a riding instructor or under a gymnastic instructor who is a good
horseman. At the same time he should be taught the correct seat. (_See_
Sec. =38= and Fig. 4.)
2. The following are good exercises:--
i. Rising from the knee with stirrups.
ii. Rising from the knee without stirrups.
iii. Touching the foot with the hand on each side, with
and without stirrups.
iv. Leaning forwards and backwards in the saddle, with
and without stirrups.
v. Swinging the lower part of the leg, with a circular
motion to the rear, and towards the horse’s side.
vi. Without stirrups and with arms folded, making the
horse rock by swinging the body backwards and
forwards, maintaining a firm grip with the thighs.
iii and iv should be practised on the move when riding proper begins.
Before commencing, the pupil must be placed well down in the saddle,
and he must be taught to keep his knees firm to the flap and not to
cling with the lower part of the leg.
3. These exercises on the wooden horse may be usefully employed during
subsequent training, but should not immediately precede or follow
a riding lesson. Exercising tired muscles is not only useless, but
harmful.
=36.= _First lessons to the recruit._
1. Squads should not exceed 8 in number, and should parade in line,
leading their horses.
“STAND TO YOUR HORSES.”--The man stands at attention on the
near side of the horse, toes in line with the horse’s
fore feet; the reins, taken over the horse’s head, are
held in the palm of the right hand near the ring of
the bit, little finger between the reins, back of the
hand up; the right arm bent, the hand as high as the
shoulder; the end of the reins in the left hand, which
hangs down by his side without constraint. This is the
position of _attention_ when the man is leading his
horse.
When the horse is about to be ridden, the position of attention will
be the same as above, except that the reins will not be taken over the
horse’s head and will be held by the right hand only near the bit.
“STAND AT EASE.”--The right hand slides down the near rein
to the full extent of the arm, the end of the reins
being retained in the left hand. The position of the
man’s legs and feet are the same as at dismounted drill.
_Note._--If the reins have not been taken over the horse’s head, they
will be held in the right hand only, the left arm hanging by the man’s
side without constraint.
“IN FRONT OF YOUR HORSES.”--Each man being at _attention_
will take a full pace forward with the right foot, turn
to the right-about on the ball of it, and take one rein
in each hand near the rings of the bit, still holding
the end of them in the left hand if the reins are over
the horse’s head; hands and elbows to be as high as the
shoulders.
This is the position in which a man should stand when showing a horse
at the halt.
“STAND TO YOUR HORSES.”--Each man will take a full step
forward to the horse’s near side with the right foot,
and turn left-about on the ball of it.
“QUICK MARCH.”--Each man will move off holding the reins as
above.
“SINGLE FILES RIGHT (OR LEFT)” “QUICK MARCH.”--Each man will
move off in succession, one horse-length from the file
in front of him.
2. A man when leading a horse through a narrow gate or doorway should
walk slowly backwards, taking care that the horse’s hips clear the
uprights. The head collar should be held in both hands, one on either
side of the horse’s head, which, however, should be sufficiently free
for the horse to see where he is going.
When a soldier, leading a horse, passes an officer he will look towards
him.
3. _How to pick up a horse’s foot._--The recruit should be taught the
right way to pick up a horse’s foot. To do this he should face the rear
and run his hand lightly down the leg from the shoulder or quarter
along the back of the knee or hock before attempting to lift the foot
from the ground.
4. _How to run a horse in hand._--The reins should be held as described
above in “_Stand to your horses_” and the horse led off. As soon as he
breaks into a steady trot the man should leave go the reins with the
hand nearest the horse, and only hold the end of the reins in his outer
hand. In turning a horse about when in hand, the man should always move
round the horse and not swing the horse round himself. In leading a
horse past an officer for inspection, the man should place himself on
the side nearest the officer.
=37.= _Mounting and dismounting._
1. _Without stirrups._--The reins hanging evenly on his neck, the
command will be given:--
“PREPARE TO MOUNT.”--Turn to the right and close 6 inches
to the right. Take the reins in the left hand properly
separated as for riding (_see_ Sec. =39=), and place
the left hand on the front of the saddle. The reins
should be of such a length that the horse’s mouth is not
interfered with while mounting. The right hand will grip
the back of the saddle.
“MOUNT.”--Spring up, straightening the arms to assist, pass
the right leg over the horse and drop gently into the
saddle. When mounting without a saddle the left hand
will be placed in front of the horse’s withers, and the
right arm on his loins, forearm well to the off side,
fingers closed.
“PREPARE TO DISMOUNT.”--Place both hands, with a rein or
reins in each, on the front of the saddle, and rise from
the horse’s back by straightening the arms. Without
saddles, both hands will be placed on the horse’s
withers.
“DISMOUNT.--Vault lightly to the ground and assume the
position of ”_Stand to your horses_.”
Mounting and dismounting should also be practised on the
offside.
2. _With stirrups._--“PREPARE TO MOUNT.”--Turn to the right about. Take
the reins in the left hand properly separated as for riding (_see_
Sec. =39=) and with a light and equal feeling on the horse’s mouth.
Place the left hand on the horse’s withers, and grasp his mane, or the
front of the saddle if he has no mane; then place the left foot in the
stirrup, and the right hand on the back of the saddle.
“MOUNT.”--Spring quietly into the saddle, place the right
foot in the stirrup without looking down and assume the
position of attention (_see_ Sec. =40=).
Mounting on the offside will be taught in the same manner, and recruits
should be made to practise it regularly.
“PREPARE TO DISMOUNT.”--Shorten the reins (_see_ Sec. =39=)
and grasp the mane with the left hand, place the right
hand on the front part of the saddle and take the right
foot out of the stirrup.
“DISMOUNT.”--Carry the right leg over and lower the body
gently to the ground; place the left foot in line with
the horse’s fore feet, turn to the left and come to the
position of “_Stand to your horses_.”
3. Whenever the men are dismounted and have been allowed to _Stand
easy_ from the position of _Stand at ease_, they will be recalled to
attention by the command “STAND TO YOUR HORSES.”
4. For instructional purposes the order for mounting and dismounting is
given by two words of command, _e.g._:--
“PREPARE TO MOUNT.”--“MOUNT”; “PREPARE TO DISMOUNT.”--“DISMOUNT”; but
for trained men there is only one word of command in each case, _i.e._,
“MOUNT” or “DISMOUNT.”
=38.= _The seat._
1. The recruit must be made to sit evenly on his seat, well down in the
saddle, and not on his fork; the flat of the thigh and the inside of
the knee pressed against the saddle, but not so tightly that the man
rides on his thighs, as the weight of the body should rest principally
on the seat. Below the knee the leg should hang free, and in the early
stages much attention need not be paid to the position of the body,
though from the first the recruit should be taught to get his seat well
under him.
2. Great care should be taken to fit the stirrups to the right length
to suit the build of the rider. The man should be made to place himself
in the saddle with his knees at the height which appears to suit his
thigh. The stirrups should then be adjusted so that the bars are in
line with the soles of his boots. If a man standing in his stirrups can
just clear the pommel with his fork the stirrups are about the right
length.
The end of the stirrup leather should be passed under both returns and
then under the surcingle. It should not be passed downwards through the
buckle.
A man with a short thick leg, however, requires his stirrups shorter
in proportion than a man of equal height but with a flat thigh and
thin leg. The stirrups are intended to be an aid and convenience to the
rider; if they are too long he will lose his seat by leaning forward in
his endeavour to retain them; if they are too short, the seat becomes
cramped and the rider is prevented from using the lower part of the leg
correctly.
In ceremonial work the stirrups should be kept on the ball of the foot,
but at other times the feet may be pushed right home.
=39.= _How to hold the reins._
1. The recruit should next be taught how to hold the reins as described
below. In the early stages he should only be allowed a snaffle or
single rein attached to the cheek of the universal bit, and no curb,
and should ride with the reins in both hands. The instructor should
impress upon him the importance of not hanging on by the reins and
explain that if he does so he will not make progress, but by injuring
his horse’s mouth will make him difficult to ride.
2. The hands should be low and close in front of the body, thumbs
uppermost, back of the hands to the front. Wrists should be rounded and
supple and the movements of the horse should be followed by means of
the play of the shoulders, elbows (which should be kept close to the
body), and wrists.
3. _Reins in left hand._ i. _Bridoon or check reins only._--Take the
two reins in the left hand, the right rein between first and second
fingers, the left rein outside the fourth finger, slack passed across
the palm and secured between the thumb and first finger.
ii. _All four reins._--Place the right bit rein between the second
and third fingers, and the left bit rein between the third and fourth
fingers. The right bridoon rein between the first and second fingers,
and the left bridoon rein outside the fourth finger, the slack of all
four reins thrown back over the first finger and secured by the thumb.
At riding drill drivers when holding the reins in the left hand should
place the right hand on the thigh, as described in Sec. =55=.
4. _Reins in both hands._--In the first place, whether using single or
double reins, take them in the left hand as described above, then take
up the right rein or reins in the right hand by placing it in front of
the left, pulling sufficient of the slack forward through the left hand
to obtain an even bearing on the mouth with both hands held low, just
in front of the body and close to the horse’s withers.
In the case of single reins only, the right rein should be held between
the third and fourth fingers; with double reins, the two right reins
should be separated by the third finger. In each case the right hand
should hold only the right rein or reins, the slack of these being
secured between the right thumb and forefinger and passing thence into
the left hand which holds both the left and right reins. (_See_ Fig. 3.)
[Illustration: FIG. 3.
(_Bit reins shown shaded._)
VIEW FROM FRONT.]
[Illustration: VIEW FROM ABOVE.]
5. _To lengthen the reins._--Allow sufficient rein to slip gently
through the fingers.
_To shorten the reins._--Keep the reins in the left hand but drop the
slack from between the thumb and forefinger, and take hold of this in
the right hand behind the left, slide the left hand forward until the
desired length is obtained. Then as before secure the slack, and if
riding with both hands on the reins, take up the right rein or reins
again in the right hand.
6. The recruit should be well grounded in the proper manner of holding
the reins, and frequently practised in changing them quickly from one
hand to both and _vice versâ_, also in shortening and lengthening them
at all paces. The importance of keeping the reins supple and unpolished
should be impressed on him.
7. Normally the reins should be held in the left hand only, bit reins
inside except in the case of beginners, and when riding young or
awkward horses, when both hands should often be used. Occasionally the
left hand may be required to be free, as when leading another horse, in
which case the reins of the ridden horse can be held in the right hand.
=40.= _Position in the saddle at attention._
[Illustration: FIG. 4.]
1. The correct position of the rider at attention is shown in Fig. 4.
The head and body should be erect and square to the front; upper arm
hanging perpendicular; forearm nearly horizontal; thighs flat on the
saddle; legs from the knee down nearly vertical; knees turned inwards
so as to enable the toes to point towards the front; the heels should
be sunk lower than the toes and the feet pressed down into the stirrups
(_see_ Fig. 4).
2. On the command “SIT AT EASE” the reins should be relaxed by dropping
the left hand on the front of the saddle. The right hand should rest on
the left, back up.
=41.= _First movements on horseback._
1. The recruit should now be shown how to start his horse off at a walk
from the halt, _i.e._, he should be made to ease the reins slightly,
though still keeping a light feeling on the horse’s mouth, and press
him forward with the legs from the knees downwards. He should be
prevented from jogging his horse in the ribs with his heels and from
advancing his hands to slacken the reins. At the same time he should be
taught how to halt without jerking his horse’s mouth.
The trot should be slow and for short periods and there should be no
cantering for the first few lessons.
2. _How to rise in the stirrups._--The loins must be perfectly lissom,
so that the seat may be easy and comfortable; the back should not be
hollowed, but the upper part of the body should be inclined a little
forward.
The recruit should not try, by rising, to follow or to anticipate the
movements of the horse, but should let himself be raised.
His knees (and ankle-joints if riding with the stirrup on the ball
of the foot) will sustain his movement and will allow him to descend
softly into the saddle. It is advisable to let the recruit commence
this at a walk.
3. At the trot without stirrups the recruit should allow his body to be
thrown up at each step, and fall on his seat.
In cantering, the knees, the inside of the thighs and the seat
itself must remain close to the saddle, the whole body pliant and
accompanying the movement of the horse, so that with each stride the
rider feels a forward thrust through his seat from the animal’s back.
4. A few turns and circles may now be introduced, and in executing them
the recruit should be told how to use the weight of his body. He should
be instructed, whilst preserving the grip of his knees and thighs, to
incline his weight from the hips slightly backwards and to the side to
which he is turning.
5. As soon as he has gained some confidence, the recruit should ride
without reins; he should then be taught to jump, at first over small
obstacles, such as the bar lying on the ground. (_See_ Sec. =42=.)
The recruit should not be allowed to cling with the back of the calf;
it should be explained to him that the principal use of the lower part
of the leg will be taught to him later.
6. Much of the early training should be without reins, the arms being
folded in front of the body, never behind, as the latter tends to throw
the upper part of the body forward.
=42.= _Teaching the recruit how to ride his horse over a fence._
1. Jumping, when carried out with discretion, is an excellent training
for men and horses. Constant practice throughout the recruit’s training
will enable the man to acquire, and afterwards to maintain, a firm
seat, whilst at the same time the muscles of the horse’s back and
thighs are developed and strengthened.
2. Riding over the bar laid on the ground makes a good beginning, the
men trotting round the school with suitable distances between horses
and jumping it in turn. This has the advantage of leading both men and
horses to think that they are doing nothing out of the common, and
results in an orderly and quiet procedure.
The recruit should at first be allowed to hold the end of the rein in
the flat of the hand to give him confidence, but should be encouraged
as soon as possible to drop the reins altogether. The arms should
be folded across the chest. Stirrups should be allowed until the
instructor considers it advisable for the beginner to jump without them.
In the first jumping lessons the recruits may be allowed to hold the
mane, head rope, or front of the saddle in one hand and the reins
loosely in the other. With this assistance they will be found to get
confidence, attain their proper balance in a short time and be in a
position to control their horses without jerking their mouths.
3. As the horse takes off, the pupil should be instructed to lean
forward and to tighten his leg-grip; if he is successful in this his
body will soon swing in harmony with the horse. The movements of the
body from the hips upwards when riding over a jump vary so much with
different horses and different fences, that it is impossible to lay
down any rule. It is a matter of the rider balancing his body assisted
by a leg-grip. The horse should be eased up gently after a jump, on no
account should his pace suddenly be checked.
When the initial stage is passed frequent change of horses expedites
progress.
4. The pupil should be gradually trained to handle the reins when
jumping, and the greatest care must be exercised to avoid ill-treatment
of the horse’s mouth during the process. If the shoulder-joints are
given free play when the horse requires more rein, all jerky movements
of the arms and wrists will be avoided as the hands go forward. Reins
must be held long, and the man taught to keep his hands low and allow
them to come freely forward as the horse is on the downward plane. When
riding with the reins in one hand, the left shoulder can be brought
forward as the horse is descending.
5. Jumping low obstacles is very little exertion to the horse, and the
more the recruit has of it the sooner he will be ready to enter the
third period of instruction. Before he enters this stage he should sit
his horse with ease, both with and without reins, and, when jumping,
should be able to keep a light feeling on the horse’s mouth without in
any way interfering with it.
6. The pupil should then be given horses that require “_riding_”
at their fences, and be taught to handle them with resolution. A
combination of the qualities of determination and patience are
invaluable in a horseman, and should be developed and encouraged at
this stage of the training.
The method of dealing with refusers is given in Sec. =81=.
=43.= _The aids._
1. _General principles._--The “_aids_” are the signals used by the
rider to assist him in directing his horse. These signals are made by
means of the reins, legs, spurs, shifting the weight of the body, whip,
and voice. For instance, the reins can be used to bend the neck, to
raise, lower, or turn the head to any one side; and to make the horse
decrease his speed, halt, or rein back.
The necessity of impressing on all recruits the importance of
preserving the sensitiveness of the horse’s mouth cannot be over-rated.
The pressure of both legs is an indication to the horse to go forward,
and should normally be applied just behind the girth; the leg should
only be drawn back when the horse fails to respond to ordinary
pressure. The pressure of the leg drawn back on one side is employed to
make the hind quarters turn towards the opposite side, or to prevent
them from turning towards the side on which the pressure is applied.
When it is necessary to use the spur it should be applied as described
in Sec. =45=. If when the horse is on the move the weight of the body
is shifted, say to the right, the horse will be inclined to put out a
foot on that side, in order to equalize the distribution of weight on
its limbs. The hind quarters and forehand are respectively lightened
by the rider’s body being brought forward and back, or by lowering or
raising the horse’s head. The movement of the body as an “_aid_” should
be slight, except in the case of a man riding a heavy horse, when more
movement may often be necessary, but it should not lead to interference
with the horse’s mouth.
The indications of the whip are closely akin to those of the leg and
spur.
2. _To walk or trot._--Without drawing them back, close both legs to
the horse according to his temperament, and slightly ease both reins
by a slight turn of the wrist or wrists. As soon as the horse advances
at the desired pace relax the pressure of the legs and feel the reins
again as before.
3. _To halt._--Close both legs and feel both reins, at the same time
bring the weight of the body slightly back. As soon as the horse halts
relax the pressure of the legs.
4. _To turn to the right on the haunches._[3]--Close both legs to the
horse, using more pressure with the left leg drawn back to prevent his
haunches from flying out to the left. At the same time feel the right
side of the horse’s mouth, press the left rein against his neck, and
lean the body slightly back and to the right.
_To turn to the left on the haunche.s_--Reverse the above.
[3] NOTE.--Trained horses should never be turned except on their
haunches.
5. _To turn right about on the haunches._--The same as “_right turn_,”
except that the rider should lean his body slightly back as well as to
the right and as required apply more continued pressure on the right
rein and firmer pressure with the drawn back left leg to compel the
horse to turn on his haunches.
6. _To collect the horse._--Make the horse bring his hindquarters well
under him by a pressure of both legs, and induce him to flex his jaw
and bring his nose slightly in by a light feeling of the bit rein.
The pressure of the legs should precede any feeling of the reins. In
this way the rider causes the horse to stand, walk, trot or canter, at
attention.
7. _To rein back._--Collect the horse as described in the previous
paragraph, then feel the horse’s mouth as an indication for the horse
to step backwards; the rider must never have a dead pull on the horse’s
mouth, but when the horse has taken a step back, should ease the reins
and then feel them again. The horse should be kept up to his bit by a
pressure of both legs.
The trained horse should rein back collectedly, with head carried
fairly high, and the body balanced on all four legs. He must move in
a straight line, and must not be allowed to run back out of hand, but
must make each movement in obedience to the properly applied indication
of the rider. He should not be allowed to halt in an uncollected
position.
8. _To canter off fore and off hind leading._--Collect the horse, and
by a strong pressure of the drawn back left leg make him strike off
into a canter. Prevent him from turning his quarters to the right by a
supporting pressure of the right leg as required. When cantering the
horse’s body, head and neck should be kept in the direction in which
he is moving. The horse should be collected and slightly bent in the
direction of the leading leg. The horse must be made to canter true and
united.
_To canter near fore and near hind leading._--Reverse the above aids.
Methods of telling if a horse is cantering true:--
i. Look at his shoulders and fore feet: the shoulder and
foot of the leading leg should be the most advanced.
ii. Look at his hind legs. The leading one of these should
be on the same side as the leading fore leg. The horse’s
croup will be slightly turned towards the side of the
leading legs.
If “_disunited_,” the movement felt in the seat will be a jolting and
twisting motion.
9. _To change from off fore and off hind to near fore and near hind at
the canter._--Close both legs to the horse and turn his head slightly
to the right; prevent him from turning his body to the right by the
pressure of the left leg, put the weight of the body slightly backwards
and cause him to change by a stronger pressure of the drawn back right
leg.
_To change from near fore and near hind to off fore and off hind, at
the canter_.--Reverse the above aids.
10. _To circle right at canter_ (from the halt, walk, or trot).--Apply
the aids described for the “_Canter, off fore and off hind leading_,”
and guide the horse round to the right.
_To circle left at the canter._--Apply the aids described for the
“_Canter, near fore and near hind leading_,” and guide the horse round
to the left.
=44.= _Bending._
1. Bending affords the advanced recruit a lesson in applying the
“_aids_.” It is tiring exercise for the horse and should be practised
with discretion.
In all bending work it is very important to get the horse to yield his
jaw slightly as this conduces to lightness of hand.
As a rule, bending should be done on the move.
2. _To bend a horse:_--
i. _On the snaffle._--If to the right, the rider
should bend the horse by a gentle pressure on the right
rein, at the same time giving to him slightly with the
left rein but still retaining a gentle feeling on the
left side of his mouth, and using the pressure of the
legs as required; as soon as the horse bends to the
hands cease bending and make much of him.
ii. _On the bit._--The left hand, holding the reins,
should have an equal feeling on all four reins. In
bending to the right, place the third finger of the
right hand between the two right reins and slightly
feel the horse’s mouth, using the pressure of the legs
as required; when the horse yields to the feeling by
relaxing his jaw and bending as required, the hand
should immediately yield to him.
The outer rein in bending should always retain a steady feeling to
support the inner and to ensure the bend being made at the poll.
3. _Bending lesson._--With beginners it is advisable that this should
take place in the riding school or closed-in manège, but as the
instruction progresses it should be practised outside.
The following movements should be practised (_see_ Fig. 5):--
_Right shoulder in._
_Left shoulder in._
_Right pass_ } To move across the school or to a flank.
_Left pass_ }
In all these movements the horse’s neck should be kept straight from
the withers onwards to near the poll, his head itself being turned in
the direction in which he is moving.
In the “_shoulder in_” the horse’s body should be inclined at about a
half turn to the direction in which he is to move.
In “_right_” or “_left pass_” the horse’s body should be kept
approximately at right angles to the direction in which he is moving,
being inclined only just sufficiently in that direction to enable him
to cross his legs.
These movements should all be made in the same way. Thus in “_right
shoulder in_,” the left rein bends and leads the horse assisted by
the right rein. The pressure of the rider’s right leg makes the horse
cross his legs (except in the case of the half passage) whilst the
rider’s left leg keeps him up to the hand and prevents him from
swerving.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
Horses should not be turned at the corners when in the position of
“_shoulder in_.” On reaching a corner each horse should be walked on
and again “_shoulder in_” after passing it.
To turn to the right when passaging to the right:--Stay the hind
quarters with the right leg, lead the forehand round with the right
rein, keep the left leg closed to prevent the quarters from flying out.
In working the shoulder in and passages, fore and hind feet should move
on four distinct lines parallel to each other.
=45.= _Spurs._
When the recruit has learned to preserve his proper seat and balance,
and has a knowledge of the “_aids_” made with hands and legs, he may
ride with spurs. In making use of them he must not open his thighs or
move his body forward; the leg from the knee downwards only should
move. Spurs with sharp rowels should only be allowed in exceptional
circumstances.
The spurs should be used as little as possible, but when they are
necessary the horse should be made to feel them; a continual light
touch will either make the horse kick or cause him to become insensible
to them; a jogging motion of the leg with the heel drawn up should,
therefore, never be allowed.
=46.= _Various exercises._
1. _General principles._--The recruit’s course should proceed by
degrees according to the progress made, and any or all of the following
exercises may be found useful.
Others which suggest themselves to the instructor may be added. Each
exercise or game, however, should have some definite object, and should
be looked on merely as a means to an end.
2. _To circle._--The ride being told off by fours, on the command “Nos.
1 CIRCLE RIGHT (or LEFT),” each No. 1 will ride his horse in a circle
and fall-in the rear of his section of fours, Nos. 2, 3 and 4 doing the
same when ordered by the instructor.
“ODD (or EVEN) NUMBERS CIRCLE RIGHT (or LEFT).”--Each odd
(or even) number will ride in a small circle and fall-in
behind the even (or odd) number immediately behind him.
“HEADS OF FOURS CIRCLE RIGHT (or LEFT).”--The leading man
of each fours will ride in a circle followed by 2,
3, 4, and will continue in the circle until he gets
the command “GO LARGE,” when he will cease circling
and resume his original direction; or the rein may be
changed by the word of command “HEADS OF FOURS--CHANGE.”
3. _Figure of 8._--For preliminary training in this movement the horse
should be cantered quietly on a large circle or an oblong of about the
same length as the school.
i. _In the riding school or manège._
[Illustration: Fig. 6.]
The change of rein and leading legs should be made as soon as the new
circle is commenced at X. (_See_ Fig. 6.)
ii. _Outside._--First start off at a canter on a moderate sized
circle on either rein. As soon as the horse is moving correctly and
collectedly, turn inwards and describe a small circle still on the same
rein, but about half the size of the first, when this is completed
change the bend of the horse and the leading legs, and make a similar
circle on the other rein, the two circles describing the figure of 8
within the original circle. (_See_ Fig. 7.)
[Illustration: Fig. 7.]
In changing the bend, jerking the horse’s head across from one side to
the other should not be allowed; to compel the horse to change legs it
is necessary to turn his head slightly outwards, the rider at the same
time inclining his weight to the side to which he wishes the horse to
change, and pressing with his outer leg; these movements should be made
gently, and as soon as the horse has changed the leading legs, both
fore and hind, his neck and head should be turned to look the way he is
going.
4. The “_Ladies Chain_” is a useful practice for both man and horse.
The leading file turns about, and rides a slightly zig-zag course
through the remainder of the ride (who will be at three or four
horse-lengths distance from each other), passing on their right and
left hands alternately. When each man in succession has done this, the
rear file, at increased pace, will zig-zag through the ride from the
rear, and the remainder will follow in succession.
5. Practice in crossing a big V-shaped ditch, about 18 feet wide and
10 feet deep, _i.e._, large enough to compel the horses to go down one
side and up the other, is a particularly valuable exercise, as no horse
will face the opposite bank unless his head is left absolutely alone.
=47.= _Paying compliments mounted without arms._
When riding with both hands on the reins a soldier passing an officer
turns his head and eyes in the direction of the officer without moving
his hands. When holding the reins in one hand only he should drop
the right hand to the full extent of the arm behind the right thigh,
fingers half closed, back of the hand to the right, and turn his head
in the direction of the officer.
=48.= _Leading horses._
1. When riding one horse and leading another, the led horse should be
on the near side, so that when meeting or being overtaken by traffic
the man, by keeping on the left of the road, will have the ridden horse
between the led horse and the traffic. The end of the led horse’s rein
should be held in the left hand lying flat against the reins of the
ride horse. If the led horse is fresh his rein should be held short,
about 1 foot from his head. If he tries to break away, the man should
circle the two horses to the left.
2. When leading two horses one should be on each side.
3. When leading three horses one should be on the near side and two on
the off side. When leading two horses on the same side the reins of the
outer horse should be passed between the jaw and the jowl piece of the
head collar of the inner horse before being gathered up.
=49.= _Securing horses._
1. _Tying up a horse._--The chief considerations in securing a horse
by the reins or head rope are to prevent him injuring himself (wire
fences or spiked iron railings should obviously not be used) or
breaking his reins by treading on them. The knot used should be capable
of being quickly tied and untied and should not be likely to come
unfastened through the horse fidgetting about.
Fig. 8 shows how a horse may be secured to a suitable branch by first
placing the loop of the reins under and round it, and then doubling
back the end of the branch and passing it through the reins. A piece
of stick will answer the same purpose. The more the horse pulls the
tighter the knot becomes.
2. Single horses can also be kept from straying as follows:--
i. By knee-haltering. One end of a rope is made fast above
the knee by a clove hitch, fairly tight, with a keeper
knot (half-hitch) round the rope to prevent it from
coming loose. The other end is then carried back to the
head collar and so secured that the horse cannot tread
on it. The rope should be from 1 foot to 1 foot 6 inches
from the knee to lower ring of jowl piece of head-collar.
[Illustration: Fig. 8.]
[Illustration: Fig. 9.]
ii. By securing the bit to the stirrup iron by means of the
rein or a strap.
iii. By securing the bridoon rein to the girth on the near
side; this is done by taking the bridoon reins over in
the usual way and passing them under the girth from
front to rear. They should then be drawn sufficiently
tight to bend the horse’s head to the left and fastened
by a single hitch, but without drawing the slip end
through. (_See_ Fig. 9.) When mounting in haste the
rider can easily loosen the slip knot after mounting,
and then pull the reins clear and pass them over the
horse’s head.
3. _Coupling horses._--Horses can be securely coupled by turning them
head to tail and tying each with the bridoon rein to the off back-strap
or arch of the saddle of the other, taking care that the reins, when
tied, are not more than 6 to 8 inches long. (_See_ Fig. 10.)
With three horses one can be tied to the head collar of either of the
two horses so coupled. Four horses are secured by tying a horse to each
of the two originally coupled. No horse should have more than 1 foot
length of rein, and the best knot to be used is a slip knot round the
rein itself.
[Illustration: Fig. 10.]
4. _Linking horses._--The head ropes are brought over the horses’ heads
clear of the reins, without unfastening the coil or knot. Each man
hands his rope to the man on his right, who passes it through the upper
ring of his own horse’s head collar, and ties it with two half-hitches.
=50.= _Riding with the sword._
-----------------+-------------------------------------------------
1. _To draw_ | Pass the right hand smartly across the
_swords._ |body, over the bridle arm, draw out the blade
|the sword knot on the wrist, give it two turns
DRAW--SWORDS. |inward to secure it, and then grasp the handle
ONE. |with the right arm close to the body, shoulders
|square to the front.
+-------------------------------------------------
TWO. | With an extended arm draw the sword
|slowly from the scabbard, in the rear of the
|left shoulder, and bring it smartly to the
|“_Recover_,” that is, with the bar of the hilt in
|line with the bottom of the chin, blade
|perpendicular, edge to the left, elbow close to
|the body.
+-------------------------------------------------
THREE. | Lower the sword smartly to the “_Carry_,”
|that is, with the top of the guard resting on
|the top of the hand, blade perpendicular, edge
|to the front, the first and second fingers
|gripping the handle under the resistance
|piece, the little finger behind the handle to
|steady it, the wrist resting on the leg and the
|pommel pressed against the side of it, upper
|part of the arm close to the body, and the
|elbow lightly touching the hip.
-----------------+-------------------------------------------------
_To slope_ | Bring the lower part of the arm at right
_swords._ |angles to the upper, hand in front of the
|elbow, relax the grasp of the second and third
SLOPE--SWORDS. |fingers, and allow the sword to fall lightly on
|the shoulder, midway between the neck and
|point of the shoulder, the top of the hilt resting
|on the top of the hand, the little finger
|still in rear of the hilt.
-----------------+------------------------------------------
3. _To sit at_ | Keeping the sword at the slope, place the
_ease._ |hands on the front part of the saddle, with the
|right hand over the left.
SIT AT EASE. |
-----------------+------------------------------------------
4. _To come_ |
_to position_ |
_of attention._ | Come smartly to the position of “_Slope
|swords_.”
ATTENTION. |
-----------------+------------------------------------------
5. _To carry_ | Resume the grasp of the second and third
_swords._ |fingers and bring the blade perpendicular,
|the hilt resting on the thigh, as in the third
|motion of drawing swords.
CARRY--SWORDS. |
-----------------+------------------------------------------
6. _To return_ | Carry the hilt smartly to the hollow of the
_swords._ |left shoulder, blade perpendicular, edge to
|the left, elbow level with the shoulder; then
|by a quick turn of the wrist drop the point
RETURN--SWORDS. |in rear of the left shoulder slowly into the
|scabbard, and resume the position at the end
ONE. |of the first motion in “_Draw swords_,”
|shoulders being kept square to the front
|throughout this motion.
+-----------------------------------------------
TWO. | Push the sword lightly into the scabbard,
|release the hand from the sword knot by giving
|it two turns outwards, the right hand remaining
|across the body in line with the elbow,
|fingers extended and close together, back of
|the hand up.
+-----------------------------------------------
THREE. |Drop the right hand smartly to the side.
------------------------+------------------------------------------
7. When “_Draw swords_” is ordered at the walk, the men after drawing
will remain at the “_Carry_” until ordered to “_Slope_”; but if “_Draw
swords_” is ordered at the trot or gallop, the men will come to the
“_Slope_” after drawing.
8. _Proving._--In proving with a drawn sword, the sword is brought to
the “_Carry_,” and again sloped on the command “AS YOU WERE.”
9. _Paying compliments with drawn sword._--An officer or soldier should
“_Carry_” his sword and turn his head and eyes in the direction in
which the compliment is to be paid.
10. _Officers’ salute._--i. The officers’ salute in marching past
commences ten yards from the reviewing officer, the sword being at the
“_Carry_.”
First motion: Carry the sword direct to the right to the full extent of
the arm, hand as high as the shoulder, back of the hand to the rear,
blade perpendicular.
Second motion: Bring the sword by a circular motion to the “_Recover_,”
keeping the elbow as high as the shoulder.
Third motion: Still keeping the elbow the height of the shoulder, bring
the hilt to the right shoulder; during this motion let the finger nails
come in line with the edge of the sword.
Fourth motion: Lower the sword to the front to the full extent of the
arm, blade 3 inches below the knee, edge to the left, thumb extended
in the direction of the point, hand directly under the shoulder. There
should be no pause between these motions, but all should be combined in
one graceful movement.
The head is slightly turned towards the reviewing officer whilst
passing him.
After passing the reviewing officer ten yards, the sword is brought to
the “_Recover_” carrying it well to the front, and to the “_Carry_” in
two deliberate movements.
ii. _The officers’ salute at the halt._--The sword being at the
“_Carry_.” First motion: Bring the sword to the “_Recover_,” but with
the thumb pointing upwards.
Second motion: As described in fourth motion of the salute when
marching past.
Third motion: Bring the sword to the “_Recover_.”
Fourth motion: Bring the sword to the “_Carry_.”
=51.= _Riding with the rifle._