The Ruins of Kahbah—Those of Zayi—Scattered Ruins—Church at Nohcacab—The
Padre—The Town—Departure for Uxmal—Arrival at the Hacienda—Quarters
and Arrangements—The Scenery—General Character of the Ruins of
Uxmal—The Governor’s House—The Nuns’ House—The Pyramid—Other
Remains—Pyramids, Walls, and Mounds—Reservoir—Moonlight.
I first entered upon the ruins of Kahbah from the main road leading from
Nohcacab to Bolen-Chen-Ticul. On the west side I found fragments of
buildings, walls, &c., scattered about, principally upon a low range of
hills. No perfect rooms were visible. Parts of walls and ceilings were
seen, and the ground about covered up with rubbish, mingled with broken
pillars, sculptured work, &c. In the building farthest from the road,
(which is in the best preservation of any on the west side,) we observed
two square pillars, which had been taken from the door-way, and placed
against the ceiling of the room, by some traveller, no doubt, who
intended to present them to the world. They are about six feet high and
two wide; the front facings of which are deeply cut, representing a
cacique, or other dignitary, in full dress, (apparently a rich Indian
costume,) with a profusion of feathers in his head-dress. He is
represented with his arms uplifted, holding a whip; a boy before him in
a kneeling position, with his hands extended in supplication; underneath
are hieroglyphics. The room is small, with the ceiling slightly curved;
differing, in this particular, from those of Chi-Chen.
The ruins on the east side of the road comprise mainly three buildings,
and an immense pile of stone in a pyramidical form, and in a much better
state of preservation than those on the opposite side. These buildings
are elevated upon a succession of terraces, which I ascended by a double
flight of broken steps, to a square formed in front of each; the sides
of which show the existence of walls now nearly levelled, and overgrown
with trees and vegetation. Sufficient, however, is remaining of two
buildings to indicate a similarity with those of the opposite side. The
fronts measure about one hundred feet, the façades of which are
ornamented with the most elaborate and skilful work, though now much
broken and defaced. The carvings are somewhat similar to those of
Chi-Chen; but they are much smaller, and do not display as much order in
the arrangement. Broken columns, of unusual sizes, are to be seen a
short distance from these buildings, evidently moved from their original
positions.
The door-step of the principal inner room is elaborately sculptured, and
entirely different from any thing I have observed in other places. In
the centre of one of these squares, foundation walls are to be seen,
which have been recently excavated. They, probably, were pedestals.
These structures stand, uniformly, about four rods apart, on a line; and
all have mounds and a succession of broken walls contiguous to them.
A few rods north of these buildings is a mass of broken stones, piled
together in the shape of a pyramid, at the summit of which, to the
height of one hundred and twenty-five feet, are still to be found the
remains of the broken walls of an edifice. It is located, with reference
to the cardinal points, like the pyramid of Chi-Chen, and was probably
used for the same purposes, (whatever those might have been,) though the
style of the work is not similar or equal to it. Its sides, at the base,
measure five hundred feet, and are mostly bare; the loose stones barely
maintain their form. The space occupied by these ruins cannot be less
than a mile square.
[Illustration: ZAYI RUINS.]
On the 24th of February, at sunrise, we were again in the saddle,
passing over the same road as yesterday, and following a guide, with his
pack of maza and water, the Yucatan “staff of life,” in pursuit of other
ruins, situated about two and a half leagues south-east of those at
Kahbah. The road was good, and its direction through several ranchos.
Halting at one of these, under a shed of boughs, erected in front of a
rudely built Indian church, we took our breakfast. The variety and
quality of our repast were not such as to detain us long, and we were
soon upon our route, through a hilly country to Zayi. I found my way to
the principal ruin with little difficulty, it having been recently
visited, as I learned from the natives, by Mr. Stephens, to whose recent
labors I was much indebted in approaching the object of my search; the
usual impediments of trees and wild thickets, by which it was
surrounded, having been removed. THE RUINS OF ZAYI are situated in the
midst of a succession of beautiful hills, forming around them, on every
side, an enchanting landscape.
The principal one is composed of a single structure, an immense pile,
facing the south, and standing upon a slight natural elevation. The
first foundation is now so broken that its original form cannot be fully
determined; but it probably was that of a parallelogram. Its front wall
shows the remains of rooms and ceilings, with occasional pillars, which,
no doubt, supported the corridors. The height of this wall is about
twenty feet, and, as near as I was able to measure around its base,
(owing to the accumulation of ruins,) it was ascertained to be two
hundred and sixty-eight feet long, and one hundred and sixteen wide.
In the centre of this foundation stands the main building, the western
half only remaining, with a portion of the steps, outside, leading to
the top. This part shows a succession of corridors, occupying the whole
front, each supported by two pillars, with plain square caps and
plinths, and intervening spaces, filled with rows of small ornamented
pillars. In the rear of these corridors are rooms of small dimensions
and angular ceilings, without any light except that which the front
affords. Over these corridors, or pillars, is a fine moulding finish,
its angle ornamented with a hook similar to those of Chi-Chen. Above
this moulding is a finish of small plain round pillars, or standards,
interspersed with squares of fine ornamental carvings; the centre of the
façade showing the remains of more elaborate work, concentrated within a
border, the arrangement of which is lost. There is an evident analogy
existing between these ornaments and those of Kahbah, but order is less
apparent. I could discover no resemblance whatever to those of Chi-Chen.
Over these rooms of the main building is another terrace, or foundation,
in the centre of which is a building in similar ruins to those under it;
having, also, broken steps leading to the top. It stands upon a
foundation, apparently, of six to eight feet in height, occupying about
two-thirds of the area; the residue, probably, forming a promenade.
There are three doorways yet remaining, the lintels and sides of which
are broken, and which have caused the walls above to fall down. The
walls of this part of the edifice are constructed of hewn stone, without
any signs of ornament. A plain finished moulding runs through the
centre; portions of the cornice still remain, with three or four pieces
of flat projecting stones, which formed a part of the top finish.
The whole extent of the rear is covered with confused piles of ruins,
overgrown with trees. Near by these are fragments of walls and rooms,
with a few ornaments yet remaining about them. Some of the rooms appear
to have been single, and apart from all other buildings. There are also
various mounds in the vicinity.
A few rods south are the remains of a single high wall, with numerous
square apertures, like pigeon-holes. Its foundation is elevated; around
which the broken walls and ceilings are to be seen. The summits of the
neighboring hills are capped with gray broken walls for many miles
around. I discovered no hieroglyphics or paintings of any kind; neither
the extraordinary skill displayed in the ornamental carvings, as at
Chi-Chen.
On my route to these ruins I made digressions from the road, and found,
on all sides, numerous remains of walls and ceilings; also, mounds and
small pyramids, covered with the wild vegetation of the country. My time
being limited to a day, I left these interesting reminiscences of an
unknown people under the cover of night, and returned, wearied with my
day’s labor, to Nohcacab.
The following morning I visited the church with the padre. It is a
large, plain building, with cumbrous walls. The stone being nearly
white, at a distance gave it the appearance of a Massachusetts
cotton-factory. This church is very poor; and its shrines, like many
others in the country, are in barbarous taste. As the padre pulled the
strings, to throw aside the curtains and show the figures, my simplicity
could not avoid thinking of a puppet-show; and more especially so on
account of a figure that had attracted my attention on entering from the
cloisters, dressed in a swallow-tail coat and striped trousers, and
intended, probably, to represent some one of the apostolic brotherhood.
The church stands upon an elevation; and, from the roof, is a charming
prospect of the surrounding country. Attached to the building, at one
corner, is a high wall, forming an enclosure, in which are deposited the
bones of all the dead that had been interred in the body of the church.
The tops of the walls are set off with sculls!
The padre is a young man, quite sociable, and he occasionally preaches.
When this happens, it is in the Maya language.
The town is small, and has nothing particularly to recommend it to the
stranger. It is built upon a shelving rock, a customary site for towns
in this province.
[Illustration: _Plan of the Ruins of Uxmal._]
At nine o’clock we were again in our saddles for Uxmal,[8] distant about
four leagues. I saw at a distance the ruins of Nohpat; but my haste to
reach Uxmal would not allow us to stop. I passed several fine estates on
the way before reaching that place. The road was a path cut through the
bushes, but easy to travel. I arrived at noon at the hacienda owned by a
gentleman at Merida, before mentioned, who kindly had furnished me with
a letter to his major-domo; which gave me every facility required to
visit the extraordinary ruins in the vicinity. The house of the hacienda
had just gone through a complete repair and cleaning, and held out many
inducements for me to make my quarters there; but, preferring to be near
to the place where I intended to spend my time, I ordered our trappings
to be removed to the ruins, distant about one mile, whither I followed.
I was at a loss which of the splendid structures to appropriate to my
use; but the governor’s house had the appearance of being more tenable
than all the rest, or perhaps more conspicuous. I chose that for my
future place of residence, so I wended my way towards it—passing a grand
and lofty pyramid on the right—and scrambled up the broken steps of the
southeast angle of my prospective domicile. The governor not being at
home, I took quiet possession of three rooms: one for my kitchen, the
others for my parlor and bed, or rather, sleeping-room. The rubbish was
cleared away, and my furniture, consisting of a table and a chair, with
which the major-domo had kindly supplied me, was duly arranged; and some
corn, dried pork, lard, sundry eggs, &c., were carefully provided. José
selected the most finely finished pieces of ornamented stones which were
lying about the door, and silently disposed them around the parlor as
seats for the accommodation of company. We then felt ourselves perfectly
at home, and ready to receive our friends as soon as they might be
pleased to wait upon us. From our door we could see, on our right,
beautiful hills undulating like the ground-swell of the sea; on the
left, the Cordilleras, looking down with an air of great complaisance
upon the plain beneath. Nature is renewing the fields far as the eye can
reach; while in the foreground are the time-defying monuments of other
days, garlanded with luxuriant shrubs and flowers, to sustain which they
had been compelled to give up their own symmetry and beauty. It was
nature in her second childhood.
The GOVERNOR’S HOUSE[9] is a vast and splendid pile of ruins. It stands
upon three ranges of terraces; the first of which is a slight
projection, forming a finish. The great platform, or terrace above it,
measures upwards of five hundred feet long, and four hundred and fifteen
broad. It is encompassed by a wall of fine hewn stone thirty feet high,
with angles rounded, still in good preservation. In the centre of this
platform, upon which trees and vegetation grow in profusion, stands a
shaft of gray limestone in an inclined position, measuring twelve feet
in circumference and eight in height; bearing upon its surface no marks
of form or ornament by which it might be distinguished from a natural
piece. Near by is a rude carving of a tiger with two heads; also, I saw
excavations near them with level curbings and smoothly finished inside,
which are conjectured to have been cisterns or granaries. Along the
southern edge of this platform are the remains of a range of small
pillars, now broken and in confusion.
Upon the north-west corner of this platform is an edifice, which was, no
doubt, from its location, connected with the Governor’s House. It is the
smallest of all the ruins. Its ornaments are few and plain; the most
remarkable of which is a continuous line of turtles, cut from stone of
about a foot square, arranged under the cornices.
[Illustration: SECTION OF FAÇADE, GOVERNOR’S HOUSE. UXMAL RUINS.
_Restored after Waldeck._]
The south-west corner has connected with it two piles of loose stones,
in the pyramidical form; one eighty, and the other a hundred feet high,
the sides of the bases measuring about two hundred feet. Their tops are
broad platforms, over which, and down the sides, are scattered the
remains of edifices, of which these pyramids were once probably the
foundations. Here we found pieces of pottery, consisting of broken
pieces of vases, and supposed cooking utensils.
Upon the main terrace stands another of smaller dimensions, constituting
the foundation of the Governor’s House. The measurement of this terrace
is three hundred and thirty-eight feet long, eighty-two broad, and
thirty high, having a majestic flight of stone steps, though
considerably broken at the centre, in front of the entrance.
[Illustration: Decoration]
This majestic pile faces the east, is two hundred and seventy-two feet
long, thirty-six broad, and twenty-four high. The whole building is
plain (unlike those of Chi-Chen) from the base to the mouldings, which
run through the centre over the doorways; above which, to the top, are
ornaments and sculptured work in great profusion, and of the most rich,
strange, and elaborate workmanship. It is divided into double ranges of
rooms, from front to rear. Two of the principal are situated in the
centre, fifty-five feet long, ten broad, and about nineteen high, with
an angular ceiling, occupying one-half of the whole. There are fourteen
other rooms in the front and rear; also, two rooms on each end, and one
in front and rear of the two recesses, of about one-half of the average
size.
The interior of these rooms is sometimes covered with a beautiful hard
finish, and at others presents a surface of uniform square blocks of
smooth stone. The floors are of stone, covered with a hard composition,
which, together with the stone, is now much broken.
[Illustration: Decoration]
The lintels, which are of zuporte wood, are decayed and broken, to
which, in a great degree, the falling of the walls may be attributed.
The inner sides of the doorways are pierced, and hooks attached, whereon
doors were probably swung. There are, also, apertures in the walls,
where beams rested, to support hammocks, some of which still remain, and
show the marks of the cords. There were no fresco, or other painting or
decorations of any kind in the interior of the building to be discerned.
The front presents the most remarkable architectural skill to be found
about the building. The walls were of the most durable kind of
limestone; and upwards of three feet thick, of fine hewn stone, laid
with the greatest care. There were eleven doorways besides those of the
recesses. The finish of the angles, generally, was as smooth as though
the material were cut with a sharp knife.
[Illustration: GOVERNOR’S HOUSE. UXMAL RUINS.]
The ornaments were composed of small square pieces of stone, shaped with
infinite skill, and inserted between the mortar and stone with the
greatest care and precision. About two-thirds of the ornaments are still
remaining upon the façade. The most elaborate were over the centre or
main entrance. These have fallen; and now are a heap of ruins at the
base. One of them was a figure of a man, with a head-dress of feathers
and tassels; part of which still remains, with lines of hieroglyphics
underneath. The ground-work of the ornaments is chiefly composed of
raised lines, running diagonally, forming diamond or lattice-work, over
which are rosettes and stars; and, in bold relief, the beautiful Chinese
border.
[Illustration: Decoration]
From the centre of the building to the recess, at the northern extremity
of the building, the ornaments have mostly crumbled off, and are now
lying at the base in ruins; and the other parts, contiguous, seem ready
to follow the example. The rear of this edifice is more plainly
finished; the main part of the centre has fallen.
[Illustration: Decoration]
Over the principal doorway are the remains of a female figure, in a
sitting posture. The hands and legs have fallen. It has a fine
head-dress of cap and tassels, and neck ornaments. The waist looks quite
natural, and the whole was finely finished. On each side of this figure
was hieroglyphical writing. The inner rooms of the centre of the
Governor’s House still show the places of excavations, made some years
ago, by the curate of Ticul.
The extensive pile of ruins designated as the NUNS’ HOUSE, is situated a
few rods distant, in a northerly direction from the Governor’s House. It
comprises four great ranges of edifices, placed on the sides of a
quadrangular terrace, measuring about eleven hundred feet around, and
varying in height from fifteen to twenty-four feet, its sides
corresponding to the cardinal points. The principal entrance is through
an acute-angled arch doorway, in the centre of the southern range,
through which I entered into a spacious court. This range is upwards of
two hundred feet long, twenty-five broad, and sixteen high; containing
eight rooms on either side of the principal entrance, which are now in
good preservation. The inner and outer façades are variously ornamented.
Among these I observed signs, symbolical of deities and of Time, as
represented to us as symbolized among the ancient Mexicans whose customs
have reached us.
[Illustration: THE NUNS’ HOUSE, UXMAL RUINS.]
The opposite, or northern range, by its superior elevation, and more
elaborate work, was evidently the principal portion of this immense
structure. Its foundation, which was twenty-four feet high, is now much
broken. It has contained rooms and corridors, the walls and pillars of
which are still remaining. This range has a wide terrace, or promenade,
in front; which, from its elevated position, overlooks the whole ruins.
The front wall presents five doorways, the lintels and sides of which
have fallen, and filled up the rooms with their crumbling ruins. It
measures about two hundred and forty-six feet in length, and twenty-five
in width, and its height is now only about twenty-six feet. Something
like one-third of the ornaments upon the façade yet remain, which bear
evidence of great power of combination, and extraordinary skill in the
building. No part of the edifice, however, is perfect.
The east and west ranges stand upon foundations which are ten feet high.
The ranges are about one hundred and forty feet in length, thirty-four
in breadth, and twenty-five in height, having four doorways, divided
into eight rooms each. Those of the east are in good preservation—those
of the west are much fallen and broken. The largest one of the rooms
lies on the east side, and measures thirty feet by twelve. The others
range about twelve by eighteen; having ante-rooms on either side, nine
by twelve. The height of the ceiling is uniform throughout, and the
walls are finished with a clean, white, hard substance. The finish and
style, as well as the arrangement of the ornaments, on all sides of
these walls, are different. They are much broken, and many pieces are
lost, which renders it quite impossible to get at the designs.
The northern front, no doubt, was the principal one, as I judge from the
remains, as well as from the fact, that it is more elevated than the
others. The southern range is more plain, both in its front and rear.
The eastern façade is filled with elaborate ornaments, differing
entirely from the others, and better finished. The western façade is
much broken. The remains of two great serpents, however, are still quite
perfect; their heads turned back, and entwining each other, they extend
the whole length of the façade, through a chaste ground-work of
ornamental lines, interspersed with various rosettes. They are put
together by small blocks of stone, exquisitely worked, and arranged with
the nicest skill and precision. The heads of the serpents are adorned
with pluming feathers and tassels, their mouths widely extended, and
their tails represent the rattle divisions.
In the rear of, and within a few feet of the eastern range, are the
remains of a similar range, which is now almost in total ruins. There
appear to have been connecting walls, or walks, from this range to the
Pyramid near by, as I judged from the rubbish and stones that can be
traced from one to the other.
[Illustration: Decoration]
The outer walls of the northern foundation, which yet remain quite
perfect, are not excelled, in point of workmanship, by the work of any
artisans of the present day. The outer angles, in particular, are worked
with a skill which is almost incredible. Among the great variety of
ornaments, with which these edifices abound at present, I discovered a
number of large stone hooks, finely carved, and none of them broken.
They generally are placed over the doorways, and upon the angles of the
buildings, and must have been an important or a favorite ornament, from
the conspicuous places invariably chosen for them. There are also
figures of men, representing Indians, in standing and sitting postures,
with long clubs; but they are rude, both in design and execution.
[Illustration: THE PYRAMID, UXMAL RUINS]
Within these quadrangular edifices is a terrace about six feet wide,
extending round the entire court, with flights of steps on all sides,
descending to the large court below, which is covered with square blocks
of stone, considerably worn. The surface was broken, and covered with
earth and vegetation. In the centre of the court is an excavation, in
which an immense shapeless stone was discovered, similar to one
excavated from the area of the main terrace of the Governor’s House.
The PYRAMID is situated about two rods easterly from the ruins of the
Nuns’ House, to which it appears, in some way, to have been connected.
It presents a fine exterior of hewn stone, large at the base, and their
sizes diminishing as they approach the platform. The sides are
precipitous, much broken, and covered with trees. Its base measures five
hundred feet; from the base to the summit or platform, it is one
hundred. The summit is reached, on the eastern side, by a flight of a
hundred stone steps, each one foot high, and about six inches deep;
making the ascent quite difficult, although the steps are still in good
preservation.
The area of the platform measures seventy-two feet in length and
twenty-one in width, and is occupied by an edifice sixty feet long,
twelve wide, and twenty high; having two rooms both on the east and on
the west sides, and one on either end. These rooms are much defaced, and
their doorways dilapidated. The eastern front has two doorways, and two
small pavilions projecting six or eight inches from the façade,
supported by plain pilasters.
The western façade is ornamented with human figures similar to
_caryatides_, finely sculptured in stone with great art. Their heads are
covered with a casque, and ear ornaments similar to those worn by the
Egyptians. They have girdles around their bodies. On the western side,
immediately in front of the doorway, is a platform, or roof of a room,
the base or floor of which includes about twenty feet of the inclined
side of the Pyramid; leading to which is a broken plane, once occupied
by the steps. Here are two rooms, one of which is of an unusually large
size, with a proportionate doorway, fronting the Nuns’ House. The
interior of these rooms was finely finished with smooth stone. There
appeared to be no communication from them with any other part. The front
and sides of the exterior were filled with sculptured work of the most
elaborate and incomprehensible description. The same degree of skill and
precision was perceptible here that distinguishes the whole ruins.
Below these rooms, at or near the base of the side, are others, where
excavations have been made. They are now much broken, and covered with
the fallen ruins.
[Illustration: _Section of_ THE PIGEON HOUSES; UXMAL RUINS.]
A few rods distant, in a southwest direction from the Governor’s House,
are the remains of an extensive range, or succession of ruins. They,
probably, were once of no inconsiderable importance in the place. They
are composed of terraces, walls, rooms and corridors, and court-yards.
The principal ruin fronts the north, and, probably, was connected with
the Governor’s House. A wall of two hundred feet remains standing upon a
foundation of ten feet. Its width is twenty-five feet; having ranges of
rooms in both sides, only parts of which remain. This wall has an
acute-angled arch doorway through the centre, similar to that of the
Nuns’ House, with rooms on both sides. The top of this wall has numerous
square apertures through it, which give it the appearance of
pigeon-holes; and its edge is formed like the gable-end of a house,
uniformly notched. In front of this wall appears to have been an immense
court or square, enclosed by stone walls, leading to the Nuns’ House.
The interior of this square, apparently, shows the ruins of walls and
rooms and walks; but nothing definite could be made out, as the ruins
were almost level with the ground, and overgrown with trees and grass.
At intervals, along the outer wall, in a northwest direction, the ruins
of rooms were seen, evidently a regular succession of them.
In the rear of the principal wall is another court or square, but much
smaller than that in front, having broken corridors, and the sides
running back to an artificial elevation of about fifty feet; the form of
which was lost, owing to the dilapidation of the sides and angles. Ruins
of rooms and corridors, both at its base and summit, were perceptible.
Other squares can be defined by the broken walls contiguous to these
extensive ruins; also, numerous mounds; one of which, discovered west of
the Nuns’ House, is found to be an immense reservoir or cistern, having
a double curb; the interior of which was beautifully finished with
stucco, and in good preservation. Some of these mounds have been
excavated, as I have already mentioned, and seemed to have been intended
originally for sepulchres.
In the centre of the avenue between the Governor’s House and the Nuns’
House, in a line with the principal doorway of the latter building, are
the ruins of two walls, running parallel with each other, north and
south, about twelve feet apart. The eastern and inner side shows the
remains of a serpent along its façade, similar to that of the Nuns’
House—a small portion, however, only remains. It also shows rooms and
ceilings quite level with the ground. The western wall is more perfect,
and has a ring inserted in its façade, like those of Chi-Chen; but,
instead of ornaments, presents hieroglyphics upon its sides.
The short period to which I was, unfortunately, restricted in the
examination of these sublime ruins, (and these remarks will apply to all
which have come under my observation,) has permitted me to touch but
slightly even upon those which have appeared to be the most prominent.
Months might be spent among them, and then one would only have entered
upon the threshold of an investigation into their wonders.
A moonlight scene from the Governor’s House is one of the most
enchanting sights I ever witnessed. The moon had risen about half way up
from the horizon, and was now throwing its strong silver light over the
whitened façade of _our house_. Castles, palaces, and falling pyramids
were distinctly to be traced in the foreground. At a distance, walls and
mounds, rising above the green verdure of the land, looked like a
multitude of small islands in a calm summer’s sea. All was quiet but the
chirp of the cricket, or the occasional scream of some night-bird of the
wood. It was a scene of natural beauty such as I never have seen
realized upon canvass of the artist, or even in the pages of poetry.
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