A visit to the Ruins—Reflections—Indian Visiters—Detail of the Ruins of
Chi-Chen—The Temple—The Pyramid—The Dome—The House of the
Caciques—General Ruins—Mounds—Foundations—Characteristics of the
Ruins—Materials and Manner of Building—The finish—Fresco paintings.
[Illustration: _Plan of the Ruins of_ CHI-CHEN]
It was on the morning of the 10th of February that I directed my steps,
for the first time, toward the ruins of the ancient city of CHI-CHEN.[4]
On arriving in the immediate neighborhood, I was compelled to cut my way
through an almost impermeable thicket of under-brush, interlaced and
bound together with strong tendrils and vines; in which labor I was
assisted by my diligent aid and companion, José. I was finally enabled
to effect a passage; and, in the course of a few hours, found myself in
the presence of the ruins which I sought. For five days did I wander up
and down among these crumbling monuments of a city which, I hazard
little in saying, must have been one of the largest the world has ever
seen. I beheld before me, for a circuit of many miles in diameter, the
walls of palaces and temples and pyramids, more or less dilapidated. The
earth was strewed, as far as the eye could distinguish, with columns,
some broken and some nearly perfect, which seemed to have been planted
there by the genius of desolation which presided over this awful
solitude. Amid these solemn memorials of departed generations, who have
died and left no marks but these, there were no indications of animated
existence save from the bats, the lizards, and the reptiles which now
and then emerged from the crevices of the tottering walls and crumbling
stones that were strewed upon the ground at their base. No marks of
human footsteps, no signs of previous visiters, were discernible; nor is
there good reason to believe that any person, whose testimony of the
fact has been given to the world, had ever before broken the silence
which reigns over these sacred tombs of a departed civilization. As I
looked about me and indulged in these reflections, I felt awed into
perfect silence. To speak then, had been profane. A revelation from
heaven could not have impressed me more profoundly with the solemnity of
its communication, than I was now impressed on finding myself the first,
probably, of the present generation of civilized men walking the streets
of this once mighty city, and amid
“Those temples, palaces, and piles stupendous,
Of which the very ruins are tremendous.”
For a long time I was so distracted with the multitude of objects which
crowded upon my mind, that I could take no note of them in detail. It
was not until some hours had elapsed, that my curiosity was sufficiently
under control to enable me to examine them with any minuteness. The
Indians for many leagues around, hearing of my arrival, came to visit me
daily; but the object of my toil was quite beyond their comprehension.
They watched my every motion, occasionally looking up to each other with
an air of unfeigned astonishment; but whether to gather an explanation
from the faces of their neighbors, or to express their contempt for my
proceedings, I have permitted myself to remain in doubt up to this day.
Of the builders or occupants of these edifices which were in ruins about
them, they had not the slightest idea; nor did the question seem to have
ever occurred to them before. After the most careful search, I could
discover no traditions, no superstitions, nor legends of any kind. Time
and foreign oppression had paralyzed, among this unfortunate people,
those organs which have been ordained by the God of nations to transfer
history into tradition. All communication with the past here seems to
have been cut off. Nor did any allusion to their ancestry, or to the
former occupants of these mighty palaces and monumental temples, produce
the slightest thrill through the memories of even the oldest Indians in
the vicinity. Defeated in my anticipations from this quarter, I
addressed myself at once to the only course of procedure which was
likely to give me any solution of the solemn mystery. I determined to
devote myself to a careful examination of these ruins in detail.
DESCRIPTION OF THE RUINS OF CHI-CHEN.
[Illustration: Indian knife and sheath.]
My first study was made at the ruins of the TEMPLE.[5] These remains
consist, as will be seen by reference to the engraving, of four distinct
walls. I entered at an opening in the western angle, which I conceived
to be the main entrance; and presumed, from the broken walls, ceilings,
and pillars still standing, that the opposite end had been the location
of the shrine or altar. The distance between these two extremes is four
hundred and fifty feet. The walls stand upon an elevated foundation of
about sixteen feet. Of the entrance, or western end, about one-half
remains; the interior showing broken rooms, and ceilings not entirely
defaced. The exterior is composed of large stones, beautifully hewn, and
laid in fillet and moulding work. The opposite, or altar end, consists
of similar walls, but has two sculptured pillars, much defaced by the
falling ruins—six feet only remaining in view above them. These pillars
measure about two feet in diameter. The walls are surrounded with masses
of sculptured and hewn stone, broken columns, and ornaments, which had
fallen from the walls themselves, and which are covered with a rank and
luxuriant vegetation, and even with trees, through which I was obliged
to cut my way with my Indian knife. In the rear of the pillars are the
remains of a room, the back ceilings only existing; sufficient, however,
to show that they were of rare workmanship.
The southern, or right-hand wall, as you enter, is in the best state of
preservation, the highest part of which, yet standing, is about fifty
feet; where, also, the remains of rooms are still to be seen. The other
parts, on either side, are about twenty-six feet high, two hundred and
fifty long, and sixteen thick; and about one hundred and thirty apart.
The interior, or inner surface of these walls, is quite perfect, finely
finished with smooth stone, cut uniformly in squares of about two feet.
About the centre of these walls, on both sides, near the top, are placed
stone rings, carved from an immense block, and inserted in the wall by a
long shaft, and projecting from it about four feet. They measure about
four feet in diameter, and two in thickness—the sides beautifully
carved.
[Illustration: Decoration]
The extreme ends of the side-walls are about equidistant from those of
the shrine and entrance. The space intervening is filled up with stones
and rubbish of walls, showing a connexion in the form of a curve. In the
space formed by these walls are piles of stones, evidently being a part
of them; but there were not enough of them, however, to carry out the
supposition that this vast temple had ever been enclosed. At the outer
base of the southern wall are the remains of a room; one side of which,
with the angular ceiling, is quite perfect; measuring fourteen feet long
and six wide. The parts remaining are finished with sculptured blocks of
stone of about one foot square, representing Indian figures with feather
head-dresses, armed with bows and arrows, their noses ornamented with
rings; carrying in one hand bows and arrows, and in the other a musical
instrument similar to those that are now used by the Indians of the
country. These figures were interspersed with animals resembling the
crocodile. Near this room I found a square, pillar, only five feet of
which remained above the ruins. It was carved on all sides with Indian
figures, as large as life, and apparently in warlike attitudes.
Fragments of a similar kind were scattered about in the vicinity.
[Illustration: THE TEMPLE, CHI-CHEN RUINS.]
From this room, or base, I passed round, and ascended over vast piles of
the crumbling ruins, pulling myself up by the branches of trees, with
which they are covered, to the top of the wall; where I found a
door-way, filled up with stones and rubbish, which I removed, and, after
much labor, effected an entrance into a room measuring eight by
twenty-four feet; the ceiling of which was of the acute-angled arch, and
perfected by layers of flat stones. The walls were finely finished with
square blocks of stone, which had been richly ornamented. Even yet the
heads of Indians, with shields and lances, could be distinguished in the
coloring.
The square pillars of the door-way are carved with Indians, flowers,
borders, and spear-heads; all of which I judged to have once been
colored. The lintel, which supported the top, is of the zuporte[6] wood,
beautifully carved, and in good preservation. One of the Indian
head-dresses was composed of a cap and flowers.
Immediately in front of the door-way is a portion of a column, to which
neither cap nor base was attached. It measured about three feet in
diameter, with its whole surface sculptured; but it was so obliterated
by time, that the lines could not be traced. Four feet of its length
only could be discovered. It was, evidently, imbedded in the ruins to a
great depth. Numerous blocks of square hewn stones, and others,
variously and beautifully carved, were lying in confusion near this
column.
Of the exterior of these walls, a sufficient portion still exists to
show the fine and elaborate workmanship of the cornices and
entablatures, though the latter are much broken and defaced. They are
composed of immense blocks of stone, laid with the greatest regularity
and precision, the façades of which are interspersed with flowers,
borders, and animals.
[Illustration: THE PYRAMID, CHI-CHEN RUINS.]
From this portion of the ruins I cut my way, through a dense mass of
trees and vegetation, to the eastern extremity of the walls, the top of
which was much dilapidated, and obstructed with occasional piles of
broken and hewn stone. On my return, I descended to, and walked along
the outside base of the wall to the rear of the shrine, and over immense
blocks of hewn and carved stone, some of which were, no doubt, the
butments of altar walls; as similar blocks were near here appropriated
to such purposes.
I returned by the outside of the northern wall. The whole distance was
filled up with heaps of ruins, overgrown with trees and vines; through
which I cleared my way with the greatest difficulty.
From the temple I proceeded to THE PYRAMID, a few rods to the south. It
was a majestic pile; measuring at its base about five hundred and fifty
feet, with its sides facing the cardinal points. The angles and sides
were beautifully laid with stones of an immense size, gradually
lessening, as the work approached the summit or platform.
On the east and north sides are flights of small stone steps, thirty
feet wide at the base, and narrowing as they ascend. Those of the south
and west are carried up by gradations resembling steps, each about four
feet in height, but are more dilapidated than those upon which the steps
are constructed.
The bases were piled up with ruins, and overgrown with a rank grass and
vines; and it was only after great labor that I was enabled to reach the
side facing the east. Here I found two square stones of an enormous
size, partly buried in the ruins, which I cleared away. They were
plainly carved, representing some monster with wide extended jaws, with
rows of teeth and a protruding tongue. These stones, from their
position, were evidently the finish to the base of the steps.
[Illustration: THE DOME, CHI-CHEN RUINS.]
On this side I ascended the fallen and broken steps, through bushes and
trees, with which they were partly covered to the summit, one hundred
feet. Here I found a terrace or platform, in the centre of which is a
square building, one hundred and seventy feet at its base, and twenty
feet high. The eastern side of this supplementary structure contains a
room twelve by eighteen feet, having two square pillars eight feet high,
supporting an angular roof upon strong beams of zuporte wood, the stone
and wood being both carved. The sides of the door-ways, and their
lintels, are of the same material, and ornamented in the same style.
Fronting this room is a corridor supported by two round pillars, three
feet in diameter and four in height, standing upon a stone base of two
feet; both of which are surmounted with large capitals, hewn or broken
in such a manner that no architectural design can now be traced. The
sides of these pillars were wrought with figures and lines, which are
now quite obliterated. The door-sides of these rooms are built of large
square stones, similar to those of the Temple, with the difference of
having holes drilled through the inner angles, which were worn smooth,
and apparently enlarged by use. The other sides contain rooms and halls
in tolerable preservation, having the same form of roofs supported by
zuporte wood. These rooms and halls are plastered with a superior
finish, and shadowy painted figures are still perceptible. The exterior
of the building had been built of fine hewn and uniform blocks of stone,
with entablatures of a superior order, and projecting cornices. I could
find no access to the top but by the pillars, and by cutting steps in
the stone and mortar of the broken edge of the façade, by which, and the
aid of bushes, I reached the summit. I found it perfectly level, and one
of its corners broken and tumbling down. The whole was covered with a
deep soil, in which trees and grass were growing in profusion. From this
height I enjoyed a magnificent _coup-d’œil_ of all the ruins, and the
vast plain around them. I planted a staff upon the summit, with a flag
attached, to float upon the breeze, and after much reflection and
speculation, with which I do not intend to trouble my readers, I made my
way down again, as surveyors say, “to the place of beginning,” at a much
more rapid rate than I ascended.
Unlike most similar structures in Egypt, whose “primeval race had run
ere antiquity had begun,” this pyramid does not culminate at the top, as
I have already observed. Pococke has described one, however, at
Sak-hara, similar to this, which is the only one of which I have ever
heard. The solidity of the structure of the pyramid at Chi-Chen, the
harmony and grandeur of its architecture, must impress every one with an
exalted idea of the mechanical skill, and the numbers of those by whom
it was originally constructed, and like its _elder_ (?) brethren in
Egypt, so long as it stands, it must remain a monumental protest of an
oppressed people against the ill-directed ambition and tyranny of those
rulers at whose command it was built.
About the centre of the ruins of the city is THE DOME, to which I made
my way as usual, through thick masses of tangled vegetation, by which it
was surrounded. This building stood upon a double foundation, as far as
I could judge, though I was unable to satisfy myself completely, owing
to the fallen ruins which once formed a part of its structure, but which
now almost concealed its base from the view.
I found on the east side broken steps, by which I ascended to a platform
built about thirty feet from the base, the sides of which measured each
about one hundred and twenty-five feet. The walls were constructed of
fine hewn stone, beautifully finished at the top, and the angles, parts
of which had fallen, were tastefully curved.
[Illustration: THE FRONT HOUSE OF THE CACIQUES. CHI-CHEN RUINS.]
In the centre of this platform, or terrace, was a foundation work,
twelve feet high, and in ruins; the four broken sides measuring about
fifty feet each, upon which is built a square, of a pyramidical form,
fifty feet high, divided off into rooms, but inaccessible, or nearly so,
owing to the tottering condition of the walls. I could discover,
however, that the inside walls were colored, and the wood that supported
and connected the ceilings was in good preservation. In the centre of
this square is the DOME, a structure of beautiful proportions, though
partially in ruins. It rests upon a finished foundation, the interior of
which contains three conic structures, one within the other, a space of
six feet intervening; each cone communicating with the others by
door-ways, the inner one forming the shaft. At the height of about ten
feet, the cones are united by means of transoms of zuporte. Around these
cones are evidences of spiral stairs, leading to the summit.
There is a plan and description published of a “Greenan Temple,” which
bears an analogy to this structure. It was erected upon a spot which, in
former days, was consecrated to the worship of the sun. The name Greenan
signifies the place of the sun. This singular edifice is found in the
county of Donegal, which rises from the southern shore of Lough Swilly,
Ireland, and is represented to be a most lovely place.[7]
Situated about three rods south-west of the ruins of the Dome, are those
of the HOUSE OF THE CACIQUES. I cut my way through the thick growth of
small wood to this sublime pile, and by the aid of my compass was
enabled to reach the east front of the building. Here I felled the trees
that hid it, and the whole front was opened to my view, presenting the
most strange and incomprehensible pile of architecture that my eyes ever
beheld—elaborate, elegant, stupendous, yet belonging to no order now
known to us. The front of this wonderful edifice measures thirty-two
feet, and its height twenty, extending to the main building fifty feet.
Over the door-way, which favors the Egyptian style of architecture, is a
heavy lintel of stone, containing two double rows of hieroglyphics, with
a sculptured ornament intervening. Above these are the remains of hooks
carved in stone, with raised lines of drapery running through them;
which, apparently, have been broken off by the falling of the heavy
finishing from the top of the building; over which, surrounded by a
variety of chaste and beautifully executed borders, encircled within a
wreath, is a female figure in a sitting posture, in basso-relievo,
having a head-dress of feathers, cords, and tassels, and the neck
ornamented. The angles of this building are tastefully curved. The
ornaments continue around the sides, which are divided into two
compartments, different in their arrangement, though not in style.
Attached to the angles are large projecting hooks, skilfully worked, and
perfect rosettes and stars, with spears reversed, are put together with
the utmost precision.
The ornaments are composed of small square blocks of stone, cut to the
depth of about one to one and a half inches, apparently with the most
delicate instruments, and inserted by a shaft in the wall. The wall is
made of large and uniformly square blocks of limestone, set in a mortar
which appears to be as durable as the stone itself. In the ornamental
borders of this building I could discover but little analogy with those
known to me. The most striking were those of the cornice and
entablature, _chevron_ and the _cable_ moulding, which are
characteristic of the Norman architecture.
[Illustration: THE HOUSE OF THE CACIQUES. CHI-CHEN RUINS.]
The sides have three door-ways, each opening into small apartments,
which are finished with smooth square blocks of stone; the floors of the
same material, but have been covered with cement, which is now broken.
The apartments are small, owing to the massive walls enclosing them, and
the acute-angled arch, forming the ceiling. The working and laying of
the stone are as perfect as they could have been under the directions of
a modern architect.
Contiguous to this front are two irregular buildings, as represented in
the plan. The one on the right, situated some twenty-five feet from it,
(about two feet off the right line,) has a front of about thirty-five
feet, its sides ten wide, and its height twenty feet, containing one
room similar in its finish to those before described. The front of this
building is elaborately sculptured with rosettes and borders, and
ornamental lines; the rear is formed of finely cut stone, now much
broken. Near by are numerous heaps of hewn and broken stones, sculptured
work and pillars.
[Illustration: Decoration]
The other building on the left, is about eight feet from the principal
front, measuring twenty-two feet in length, thirteen in width, and
thirty-six in height. The top is quite broken, and has the appearance of
having been much higher. The _agave Americana_ was growing thriftily
upon its level roof. On all sides of this building are carved figures,
broken images, in sitting postures; rosettes and ornamental borders,
laid off in compartments; each compartment having three carved hooks on
each side and angle. This building contains but one room, similar to
that on the right. A soil has collected on the tops or roofs of these
structures to the depth of three or four feet, in which trees and other
vegetation are flourishing.
From these portions of the ruins I worked my way through the wild
thicket, by which they are surrounded, to the north side of the main
building, in the centre of which I found a flight of small stone steps,
overgrown with bushes and vines, which I cut away, and made an ascent by
pulling myself up to the summit, a distance of forty feet. This platform
is an oblong square, one hundred by seventy-five feet. Here a range of
rooms were found, occupying about two-thirds of the area; the residue of
the space probably formed a promenade, which is now filled up with
crumbling ruins, covered with trees and grass. These rooms varied in
size; the smallest of which measured six by ten, and the largest six by
twenty-two feet.
The most of these rooms were plastered, or covered with a fine white
cement, some of which was still quite perfect. By washing them, I
discovered fresco paintings; but they were much obliterated. The
subjects could not be distinguished. On the eastern end of these rooms
is a hall running transversely, four feet wide, (having the high angular
ceiling,) one side of which is filled with a variety of sculptured work,
principally rosettes and borders, with rows of small pilasters; having
three square recesses, and a small room on either side. Over the
doorways of each are stone lintels three feet square, carved with
hieroglyphics both on the front and under side. The western end of these
rooms is in almost total ruins. The northern side has a flight of stone
steps, but much dilapidated, leading to the top; which, probably, was a
look-out place, but is now almost in total ruins. The southern range of
rooms is much broken; the outside of which yet shows the elaborate work
with which the whole building was finished.
I vainly endeavored to find access to the interior of the main building.
I discovered two breaches, caused, probably, by the enormous weight of
the pile, and in these apertures I made excavations; but could not
discover any thing like apartments of any description. It seemed to be
one vast body of stone and mortar, kept together by the great solidity
of the outer wall, which was built in a masterly manner, of well-formed
materials. The angles were finished off with circular blocks of stones,
of a large and uniform size.
In a northwest direction from the hacienda, of which mention has already
been made, are the ruins of a house which, owing, probably, to its
having been constructed without any artificial foundation, is still in
good preservation. It bears but little resemblance to any of its
fellows. It contains eighteen rooms, the largest of which measures eight
by twenty-four feet, arranged in double rows, or ante-rooms, and lighted
only by a single doorway. They all have the high angular ceilings, like
the other buildings, which enclose as much space as the rooms
themselves. Those fronting the south are the most remarkable, the inner
doorways having each a stone lintel of an unusually large size,
measuring thirty-two inches wide, forty-eight long, and twelve deep;
having on its inner side a sculptured figure of an Indian in full dress,
with cap and feathers, sitting upon a cushioned seat, finely worked;
having before him a vase containing flowers, with his right hand
extended over it, his left resting upon the side of the cushion—the
whole bordered with hieroglyphics. The front part of this lintel
contains two rows of hieroglyphics.
The building is irregular, having a projection in the centre, on one
side, of eight feet; on the other, of four feet. It measures one hundred
and fifty feet long, forty-three wide, and twenty high; flat roof,
unbroken, and filled with trees and grass to the whole extent. The
outside and partition walls have a uniform thickness of three feet.
Among other ruins contiguous to those already described, I discovered
two detached piles about two rods apart. They were erected upon
foundations of about twenty feet in height, which were surrounded and
sustained by well-cemented walls of hewn stone, with curved angles,
measuring two hundred and forty feet around them, parts of which were in
good preservation. We ascended to the platform of the one in the best
condition, in the centre of which stands the ruins of a building
measuring twenty-one by forty feet; the west front being quite perfect,
and shows sculptured work along the whole extent of its façade. The only
accessible part was a hall, having a range of hieroglyphics the whole
length over the doorways, the rooms of which were in total ruins. Across
these halls were beams of wood, creased as if they had been worn by
hammock-ropes.
In a line with these ruins and the temple are numerous mounds, covered
with loose stones and vegetation. Between these and the temple are the
ruins of a mass of foundation-work, about forty feet high; the top of
which is covered with piles of crumbling stones, and ruins of a
structure that once adorned it. These stones were of an immense size,
some square, some round; and the others either plain, hewn, or
sculptured. Among these there are two even larger than the rest, and
similar to those found at the base of the Pyramid. Likewise, among these
ruins I found pillars, beautifully worked with figures and ornamental
lines; some of which are standing, apparently, in their original
position. Also, upright blocks, six feet high and two thick, of each of
which one surface was covered with hieroglyphics. Near by were six
square fragments of pillars, at uniform distances apart from each other.
These, too, were sculptured with ornaments and hieroglyphics. Nothing
could be seen of these ruins from the base of the structure, as they
were buried among trees, and overgrown with long grass and shrubs.
Besides those we have attempted to describe, there are other ruins of
which some remains of walls are standing; and contiguous thereto lie
immense piles of worked stone, which, though presenting no new feature
in the architecture of these buildings, yet serve to give a more
adequate idea of the size and grandeur of this great city. In my walks
in the vicinity, extending miles in every direction, I have seen broken
walls and mounds, fragments of columns, and carved and sculptured stone,
some of which were of as extraordinary dimensions as any that I have
noticed, deeply imbedded in the soil, and wholly disconnected with any
other structure; though they were, without doubt, the remains of
splendid and extensive edifices.
The following general characteristics of all these ruins may not be
thought impertinent to my subject, by those who have had the curiosity
to follow me thus far in the details:—
They are situated upon a plain of many miles in circumference, nearly in
the centre of the province; upwards of one hundred miles from the sea,
and away from all water communication. They have no apparent order, or
laying-out of streets, as the plan shows; but that they bear evidence of
a people highly skilled in the mechanical arts, as also in a portion of
the sciences, must be conclusive to my readers.
The buildings which are now in the most perfect state of preservation,
are the temple, castle, pyramid, and other erections, upon a succession
of terraces composed of _rubble_, imbedded in mortar, held together by
finished walls of fine concrete limestone: the sides of which are
invariably located with reference to the four cardinal points, and the
principal fronts facing the east.
The walls of the buildings rise perpendicularly, generally, to one-half
the height, where there are entablatures; above which, to the cornice,
the façades are laid off in compartments, which are elaborately
ornamented with stone sculpture-work over a diamond lattice ground,
illustrated with hieroglyphic figures of various kinds; the whole
interspersed with chaste and unique borders, executed with the greatest
possible skill and precision. The stones are cut in _parallelopipeds_ of
about twelve inches in length and six in breadth; the interstices filled
up of the same material of which the terraces are composed.
The height of these buildings generally is twenty, and rarely above
twenty-five feet. They are limited to one story, long and narrow,
without windows. The rooms are confined to a double range, receiving no
other light than what passes through the doorway. The ceilings are built
in the form of an acute-angled arch by layers of flat stones, the edges
being bevelled and carried up to the apex, upon which rests a stone that
serves as a key.
The interior of some of the most important of these rooms is finished
with a beautiful white composition, laid on with the greatest skill.
Fresco painting in these rooms is also observable, and the colors still
in good preservation; sky blue and light green being the most prominent.
Figures of Indian characters can be discerned, but not with sufficient
distinctness for the subject to be traced. The floors are covered with a
hard composition, which shows marks of wear. The doorways are nearly a
square of about seven feet, somewhat resembling the Egyptian; the sides
of which are formed of large blocks of hewn stone. In some instances the
lintels are of the same material, with hieroglyphics and lines carved
upon the outer surfaces. Stone rings, and holes at the sides of the
doorways, indicate that doors once swung upon them.
[Illustration: AGAVE AMERICANA.]
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