Preparations for the Interior—Outfit, &c.—The Indian Boy—Departure from
Merida—Arrival at Tixcoco—Calcachen—A Feast-day—Isamal at a
distance—Arrival there—Our Palace—A Procession—Ancient Mounds—The
Church—A striking Indian—Wrong Impressions—Tuncax—A Dilemma—Philosophy
of the Road-side—A Dinner—Visit to a Curate—A Touch of Comfort—Mail
Carrier—Sitax—An Indian Alcalde—Tinum—An Allusion—Valladolid—A Mistake
rectified in time.
The varying and unsatisfactory accounts which I had received of the
interior of Yucatan, had awakened in me an irresistible desire to
explore it, although I tried in vain to define to myself the cause of my
curiosity. Partly through a desire of novelty, and partly for the want
of a more definite purpose, I resolved to invade those unexplored
regions which had not yet found a corner in our geographies, nor even
been reached by the all-pervading spirit of traffic. As soon as I had
resolved, I addressed myself to the preparation of my outfit; in which,
despite the ignorance and indolence of my Mexican aids, I was ultimately
successful.
To some future traveller, it may be interesting to know the nature of my
preparation.
In the first place, then, I provided myself with an _over-all_ shirt,
(pockets made to order,) Mexican riding-trousers, and palm-leaf hat. In
addition to these, were a hammock and a striped blanket; the latter
article _Americanized_ by ornamental stars, representing the emblems of
my country, in white, red, and blue; under which one could sleep, fight,
or negotiate, as circumstances might require. Of weapons, defensive and
conciliatory, there were a double-barrelled gun, an Indian knife, and
rather a limited amount of the smallest Spanish coin. The Indian and the
Bowie knife are very similar in weight and shape. The former is an
indispensable accompaniment upon a journey through this peninsula. It
may be seen that, if driven to the wall, a very tolerable show of
defence might have been made.
The cooking arrangements consisted of tin cups and pans, salt, and
loco-foco matches. My philosophical and mathematical instruments were a
memorandum book, an ordinary lead pencil, and a pocket compass! The
instruments and dress were intrusted to no one but myself—the latter
enveloped my person, while the former occupied those invaluable
shirt-pockets, of which I claim to be the original inventor. To the
Indian boy José, (pronounced Hosay,) whom I hired as a servant to
accompany me, and who will be hereafter better known to my readers, was
intrusted the other portion of my luggage.
The boy, to whom allusion has just been made, was decidedly genteel in
his appearance. Though he has been termed a boy, he is of the kind who,
among the Irish, never become men until they are married. He was about
five-and-twenty years of age. His mother and sisters thought the world
of him, and well they might; for he was most worthy of their affections.
Both his physical and mental powers were very symmetrical. He was
active, industrious, and faithful. If he had any fault, perhaps it was
in being too amorous. I do not feel disposed, however, to quarrel with a
constitutional infirmity.
I left the agreeable residence of Doña Michaelé, in company with my
_fidus Achates_, on the twenty-ninth of January, on one of the most
lovely mornings that the eye of God ever looked out upon to bless.
Our route was eastward, towards Valladolid. The road was wide, and in
excellent condition, being one of the principal thoroughfares. This road
is under the superintendence of government; and the expenses of its
repairs are defrayed by a tax, similar to the road-tax usually levied in
the United States.
At ten o’clock we arrived at the town of Tixcoco, and rode up to the
_Casa-real_; which belongs to a class of houses set apart by the
municipal authorities of every town for the accommodation of travellers.
They are the substitutes for public houses; a convenience almost unknown
to the country.
The Casa-real is also the receptacle for the public property of the
place—such as implements of labor, punishment, &c.—consisting of
crowbars, handcuffs, wooden scale-beams, and drums, staffs of the
alcaldes, &c.
These accommodations and depositories are in charge of some six or eight
Indians, who are drafted to serve one year, under the direction of the
alcaldes, who represent aldermen in the judicial capacity. These Indians
also attend upon the wants of strangers, and depend wholly upon the
small pittances they receive for their support. It is almost needless to
add, what follows necessarily from the tenure of their offices, that
they are idle, negligent, and without enterprise.
At a quarter before eleven I took breakfast, which had been brought from
some neighboring house. It was composed of eggs, tortillas, and
frejoles. The tortillas are a kind of corn-cakes, and constitute the
principal bread of the country. Frejoles are small black beans, in
general use in all the provinces of Mexico, and occupy the same elevated
rank in the domestic economy of that nation that the potato does in
Ireland. To complete the morning’s repast, a calabash of _maza_ was
added. This is a drink prepared with corn, and is usually drunk by the
natives in the place of tea and coffee.
The town of Tixcoco is ornamented with a large church, and the
appurtenances thereto usually belonging in Catholic countries; but the
dwellings, generally, are mere Indian huts, of mud walls and thatched
roofs.
At three o’clock, after the heat of the day, we again started upon our
route; and at six, rode up to the Casa-real of Calcachen, where we
stopped during the night. The best room in the house was placed at our
disposal. The corners of the apartment proved that it had been swept;
for the collections of months still remained there, a _standing_
evidence of the fact.
The Casa-real, according to universal custom, fronts upon a public
square; where great preparations were at this time making to celebrate
some one of the religious festivals on the following Monday. An
amphitheatre was erected, formed of poles, having a row of seats
overlooking the arena, where bull-fights were to take place. In the
evening, in anticipation of the festival, guns were discharged, and a
display of fireworks took place from the roof of the church. The
Indians, on these occasions, like our juvenile patriots previous to the
fourth of July, usually anticipate the sport of the festal day some
forty-eight hours or more before it arrives.
Next morning (Sunday) I was awakened before daylight by the noise of the
natives, who, as usual, could not restrain their impatience for the
arrival of their day of rejoicing. Wooden drums and horns were brought
in requisition; and, at _sun-rise_, rockets were being discharged from
the church. The bells were rung, the crowd entered the building, and
quiet was restored.
Preparatory to cleansing our guns, previous to our departure from this
town, they were discharged. This was understood by the Indians to be a
complimentary salute to their saint, and they crowded around me, to my
great annoyance, insisting that I should remain with them until the end
of the feast. Flattering as was this invitation, which, at one time, I
thought I should be compelled to accept, I succeeded in declining
without giving offence. Bidding them adieu, we saddled our horses, and
were once more upon the road. After passing through two small Indian
towns of little notoriety, we arrived at Isamal at noon.
The road continued to be good; and four miles distant, the church could
be seen, throwing the shadows of its massive walls over the surrounding
objects.
On arriving at the Casa-real, it was found to be deplorably filthy and
uncomfortable; to which I was in no condition of mind or body to submit.
I went in quest of the Colonel of the town, whom I found to be a quondam
friend, and an old housemate at Doña Michaelé’s, in Merida, and that he
had been recently appointed to this station. From the natural politeness
of this gentleman, I was guarantied a kind reception, and such good
quarters were provided as to make me feel quite at home; as all will be
prepared to believe, when they know of the accommodations.
We were the sole proprietors of a lordly mansion, with a retinue of
Indians to attend our bidding. The structure which we inhabited occupies
one side of a large square, and is raised upon strong and well-built
arches of about twelve feet, supporting the long ranges of halls, rooms,
and pillared corridors, of easy access by steps leading off at different
sections. The whole was quite imposing in its appearance, and not the
less attractive for having been recently cleansed and whitewashed. This
building was used for public offices in Isamal’s better days. I occupied
the south-eastern angle of the mansion, looking out upon the square and
market-place. The scene without, however, was not very fascinating. A
few Indian women only were to be observed, selling or carrying meats and
vegetables; and mules browsing over the grounds.
Sunday evening was being observed here by a long procession from one of
the churches, composed of priests, and upwards of four hundred Indian
girls, clad in plain white cotton dresses, each carrying a lighted
candle. It was a beautiful and even an imposing sight. In this
procession was carried a figure of the Virgin, surrounded by all the
symbols of the church, upon a stage preceded by music, and heralded with
occasional displays of fire-works.
In the morning, at an early hour, I visited the suburbs of the town,
where I observed a number of mounds, the highest of which I judged to be
from fifty to sixty feet, and which I ascended. The sides were very
precipitous, and covered with loose stones. I was compelled to pull
myself up by the aid of the bushes that overgrew the surface.
Before reaching the summit, and about two-thirds of the way from the
base, is a square platform of about two acres in extent, in the centre
of which is a well, partially filled in with stones, and more or less
overgrown with vegetation. This dilapidation and decay had evidently
been the work of centuries.
From the top of this mound there was a fine prospect. The view of the
town, with its elevated church, and the flat-roofed, Moorish-looking
houses, with the trees of the tropics interspersed, and the tall cocoa,
varying the surface of the extended country in the distance, presented a
rural scene rarely to be met with in this country.
The plane surface of the land around these elevations, precludes the
supposition that they are natural formations. Their origin and purpose
can only be surmised. Probably they were fortifications—perhaps look-out
places:—
“An observatory, from whence to overlook
The surrounding world at one broad glance,
And view their wily foes.”
Be this as it may, I felt awed when I looked upon them. I could not but
feel that they established a sort of parenthetic connexion between
myself and elder ages, and a strange people who had customs now unknown,
and of whom history has preserved no better memorials than the
indistinct yet eloquent piles of stone and earth before me.
After our breakfast, I called at the house of the curate, but he was
absent; asserting the prerogative of the traveller, I thereupon
introduced myself to the priest in charge, and informed him that I was a
stranger, and should not be ungrateful for any attentions that might be
bestowed upon me in that character. His reception was rather cool; but,
as my object was to obtain information, I affected not to notice it.
After some trivial delays, I was enabled to visit the church which had
so struck my eye as I approached the city, and which I was desirous of
seeing. It is situated in the centre of the city, upon an artificial
elevation, which once, no doubt, was the site of some important
structure of the ancient people who formerly inhabited this province. It
was probably destroyed to make room for a monastery—the ruins of which
(the church which forms a part of it being preserved) cover some acres
of land.
The church was filled with rude carving, and with still more rude and
incomprehensible paintings. Within the walls, which encompass the whole
of the grounds, is a square that once must have been a magnificent
place, but which is now totally neglected. It has on three sides a
double row of pillars, forming a beautiful promenade, from which the
country, as far as the eye can reach, is overlooked.
The priest who conducted me over the premises, seemed to know nothing of
the church in which he officiated, and even less, if possible, of the
city and its environs, whence came the patronage on which he subsisted.
The Latin inscription upon the builder’s tablet was incomprehensible to
him; but it is no more than justice to say, that he was evidently
chagrined by the ignorance which he had been forced to exhibit. He
conducted me to the turret, and pointed out the clock for my inspection;
it was a rare piece of mechanism; but the most striking part of it was a
_live_ Indian stationed beside it, to strike the hours.
The towns throughout this portion of the interior are well laid out, and
the houses well built; every thing looks as though they might be
inhabited by a stirring people. Arriving in one of them at the close of
the day, the stranger is led to attribute the pervading quiet to that
particular time; in the morning he would think the same; but, at
morning, noon, and night, the same composing monotony reigns, and all
days, (those of the feasts excepted,) and all places, are alike. A
listless apathy seems to hang around them—a pervading stillness and
inactivity, which are painful to observe.
The principal stores are kept by the whites, who, in the ratio of
population, are to the Indians, about as one to six. Their stock
comprises all descriptions of goods required by the inhabitants; among
which the article of distilled liquors is the most prominent—the demand
for which, I observed, increased, as I advanced into the interior.
The Indian of the town clock has this moment struck _one_; the stores
are closed, and the streets deserted. The whole of the population,
excepting a few straggling natives, are in their hammocks. Midnight is
on us in pantomime, without its darkness. In fifteen minutes more, all
Yucatan, literally, may be said to be asleep—even my José now is looking
at me with a drowsy eye, and wondering, no doubt, why I do not follow
the example. The climate is really enervating, and I have determined to
swing a while, if it be only to learn not to condemn the habits of
others.
On the following morning we left Isamal, stopping occasionally upon the
road-side, to examine the sonatos which lay in our route. These are
large wells, which apparently have been formed by convulsions of Nature,
in the midst of silicious and calcareous rocks. They contain a never
failing supply of good water, and are a rendezvous of Indians, and
halting-places for the muleteers, who usually are found taking their
refreshments there. The calabash of Maza was always tendered to us with
unrestrained hospitality, and we were almost uniformly asked to partake
of their other provisions. Sharing the food of these humble wayfarers is
an unfailing guarantee of their good-will, and to decline, if not
construed as an offence, would certainly wound their sensibility.
I frequently had occasion to observe the tact that José possessed of
making himself agreeable to those we met upon the road, and was often
reminded of my good fortune in having secured his valuable services.
Parting from our transient friends, we hurried on in a vain effort to
escape a violent shower which threatened us, and which overtook us in
time to drench us thoroughly before we got refuge, at noon, in the
Casa-real at Tuncax.
It is too late for me to expect any credit for remarking the mutability
of all human affairs; but I was reminded of the fact to-day with all the
force of a new revelation. But this morning I was quartered like a
prince, with a palace for a dwelling, and a cacique’s retinue to obey my
bidding; and now, there is not an Indian so poor as to do me reverence.
The floor of the Casa-real into which fate had cast me was not entirely
covered with water. The hammock swung clear of the mud. There evidently
had been a roof over head, and my situation would have been positively
worse in the streets. Comparatively, then, I was comfortable. The rain
too had almost ceased; the Indians were coming in, and the prospects of
a dinner were brightening. Across the square stood the church, with its
heavy walls blackened with the sun and the rain, with its gabled front,
and pigeon-holed apex, and its trio of bells. By its side stood the
house of the curate, with its low sides, and high though dilapidated
thatched roof. There were some half dozen stores scattered about, and a
few stone buildings, no doubt inhabited by the whites; the rest of the
town, as usual, is made of Indian huts.
The dinner came, and it satisfied me that none can appreciate the
importance of a meal, except those who have tried it after a day’s
riding and fasting in a country like this. After a hearty repast of
tortillas and frejoles, the weather was consulted, with a view of
continuing our journey; but the result was not flattering. The fact was
much clearer than the sky, that we were to remain here during the night,
and there was no friendly Colonel within reach to rescue me from my
lodgings. But it struck me that there must be some resource. The curate
appeared to be the only chance, so to his house I wended my way, and
entered with the customary “Ave Maria” upon my lips. He was swinging in
his hammock. I introduced myself to him at once; described the
deplorable state of the Casa-real, and solicited his influence in
obtaining us more comfortable quarters. He received me very kindly, and
promised to do all in his power to make me comfortable; and right well
he kept his word. A bottle of “Abenaro,” a peculiar liquor of the
country, and its accompaniment of cigars, were speedily sent for; and,
in much less time than it requires to partake of either, I discovered
that I was at home, at the house of my friend, the curate of Tuncax.
A long and animated conversation followed, which, I only recollect, was
poorly understood by either, in consequence of the small amount of words
which we comprehended in common. It was, mainly, of a political cast;
politics being the subject in which he appeared to take most interest.
The curate was a young man, who, compared with many of his order in the
country, had devoted much time to study. He has possessed the curacy for
the last four years; but, if one may draw conclusions from things
around, it is not a very lucrative situation.
Everything in the vicinity indicated extreme poverty; and I felt some
embarrassment in asking to see his church and its nakedness. This,
however, was happily obviated by a polite invitation, on his part, to
conduct me through it. So, putting on his black velvet and silk, and
mounting a curious high-peaked hat, and taking his telescope in his
hand, he led the way over the broken stone floors, and along the dark
damp halls, to the edifice.
As we entered, he remarked that it was poor. Indeed, that was plainly
impressed upon everything in and about it. It had not even cleanliness
and order to relieve its appearance. We passed through it, and ascended,
by a flight of stone steps on the outside, to the roof, where, by the
aid of the telescope, we had a fine view of the surrounding country.
On returning, my kind host made such immediate and complete arrangements
for our accommodation, as guarantied to my _ménage_ not only comfort,
but some degree of splendor. On reaching the house that had been made
ready for our reception, my friend, the curate, informed me that it was
mine, and desired me to call for whatever I wished. The saddlebags and
hammock were sent for, and everything was soon in a comfortable
condition. The table was supplied with refreshments, and ornamented with
large earthen cups of cool water, on the surface of which full-blown red
roses were floating. The garden attached to my house, which I supposed,
of course, was included in the gift, was fragrant with ripe oranges, and
other delicious fruits. Besides all these, a whole troop of Indians were
in attendance, to await my behests. There stands the Casa-real, our
deserted hovel, just across the way. These sudden changes absolutely
require nerve.
Between the kindness of the curate, the company of a civil dignitary of
the town, and two other citizens, as guests, and a supper, which, I
flatter myself, I was fully prepared to appreciate, served up with the
unusual luxury of knives and forks, I contrived to pass one of the most
agreeable evenings that I had enjoyed since my departure from home.
At three o’clock on the following morning, we made ready to leave. The
church was already lighted up, and the worthy curate at his post. At
four we were in our saddles, and were soon making our way upon the road.
The sky was clear and bright. The moon was half gone, throwing a sombre
light upon all things around us. The green bushes by the road-side
looked black; and the bleached wood of the rude crosses, erected at the
pathway entrances to the haciendas, appeared forlorn and startling.
We met with but one living thing upon the road, and that was the
mail-carrier. Neither the trampling of horses, nor the sound of horn,
heralded his approach; but the clamping sounds of his wooden sandals, as
they struck upon the stony road, gave us the first notice that he was
near. The mail was contained in a small box, held by a strap, which
passed round the head of the carrier, who was an Indian.
At eight o’clock we arrived at Sitax, the prettiest town we had seen;
where we stopped for breakfast and to obtain a horse, that of José
having given out. As I strolled about the place, I noticed a more marked
appearance of order than was generally to be seen in the other towns. At
the house of an old Indian I saw an earthen vase, something of the
Etruscan shape, which he told me had been found among some of the
ancient ruins in this province. He used it as an incense-burner; and
refused to sell, or even to set a price upon it. Money is not omnipotent
with these Indians, as in most civilized countries; and this prostration
of the divinity almost startled me.
On returning to the Casa-real, breakfast and an alcalde were sent for.
Both came. The former consisted of the almost undeviating course—eggs,
tortillas, and frejoles; and the latter, of a strapping big Indian,
barefooted, bearing his staff of office, and accompanied by one of his
aids. My wants were soon explained; and he immediately despatched his
aid, who brought an Indian that agreed to carry José and luggage to
Valladolid, eight leagues, for the sum of half a dollar. The bargain was
concluded, and the money paid in advance, as is always customary among
the natives. This demand must be complied with uniformly. Even the women
who wash clothes require a _medio_ in advance, to buy soap.
The luggage was lashed to the back of a mule, and we were again upon the
road. Several stops were made by the way, to visit haciendas and
ranchos, (grain and cattle farms;) but little of interest occurred upon
our journey. We arrived at the town of Tinum at two o’clock. The sun
being excessively hot, we waited till evening. The Casa-real in this, as
in other towns of the province, was the loafering-place of the Indians.
They were squatted about in the shade, silent and motionless, killing
time to the best of their abilities. At four o’clock we again betook
ourselves to the road, and passing through several inconsiderable Indian
towns, arrived at Valladolid at dusk on the fourth day of February,
distance one hundred and twenty miles from Merida.
For the greater part of the way from Isamal to this city, the road is
level, though somewhat rough. As we drew near to Valladolid, gentle
risings were more common at intervals, particularly near the sonatos.
Although this road commences at the capital, and leads through all the
principal cities and towns of the interior, it is but little travelled.
No wheel carriages, of any description, were seen. Transportation is
mostly effected by mules—perhaps I should say, by Indians; many of whom
were met upon the road with heavy packages secured upon their backs, and
held by plaited ropes passed around the head in the usual manner.
After a fatiguing day’s journey, we reined up in the square of the city,
before the Casa-real, and dismounted. I discovered, however, before
entering, that it was full; and, upon inquiry, ascertained that it was
occupied by prisoners, who were detained there while their usual place
was undergoing repairs. This sort of association not being altogether
agreeable to me, we remounted, and went in quest of a countryman, who I
heard was residing here. Successful, after much inquiry, in finding him,
my name, the object of my visit to Valladolid, &c., were all
communicated to him in due form; but somehow Mr. Stephens, who had been
daily expected here for the last two months, had got into the head of my
new acquaintance, as I afterwards learned, and, in his confusion, he had
mistaken me for that celebrated traveller, and led me, without my being
aware of the misconception, to the house of a friend who had been long
advised of that gentleman’s approach. I was met by the polite and
hospitable owner of the house, and invited to walk in, while orders were
given to have care taken of the horses. But, mistrusting that all was
not right, I halted at the threshold, and requested a parley. It was
only with a considerable degree of earnestness that I was enabled to
convince him that I was neither Mr. Stephens nor the _Medico_,
(alluding, probably, to Dr. Cabot, one of the companions of Mr.
Stephens.) The amiable lady and her daughter were quite amused at the
incident, and seemed rather to enjoy my embarrassment than otherwise. I
drew off, and followed my countryman to his quarters, where I was kindly
entertained for the night. This was rather a laughable circumstance; but
I congratulated myself that we came to an understanding in time to
prevent its becoming ludicrous.
[Illustration: A ROAD SIDE.]
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