Mechanical Pursuits—The Circulating Medium—A Ball—A Remnant of
Franciscans—Signs of Decay in the Suburbs—The Cemetery—The
Weather—A Whole Congregation Flogged—The Wise Men—The
Gentlemen—Extra Civilities—The Appearances of Trade—Products of
the Soil—Education—Language of the Indians—The Ancient
People—Waldeck’s Opinion of them—The Maya Language—The Lord’s
Prayer in Maya—Grammars of that Dialect—Difficulties in Speaking
it—Traits of the Indian Character.
Having resolved to visit the towns in the interior, I was under the
necessity of making some preparations which brought me in contact with
the mechanics of Merida. It being customary and even necessary to travel
chiefly upon the backs of horses and mules, the saddler and the tailor
were first called into requisition. These professions were principally
filled by Indians and half-breeds, who, though clumsy in their business,
were far more expert than might have been expected. The custom of the
country invariably exacts the payment of one-half of the amount agreed
upon in advance, in order that the contractor may be in funds to
purchase stock, wherewith to fill his contract. Though their delays are
very annoying, yet they are generally honest, and may be depended upon
for ultimately fulfilling their engagements.
The wants of the people are so limited that few mechanics are necessary.
Nature is kind and lavish. The articles necessary to cover and protect
the body are not numerous, and every thing requisite for its nourishment
abounds. It looks very odd, I had almost said humiliating, to see men
sitting upon the public sidewalks, working upon a lady’s dress, and
similar articles hanging around the door-ways of their houses, as a sign
of the services which they hold themselves competent and ready to
render. Manufactories are nowhere to be seen; the clatter of the loom or
the noise of the hammer never disturbs the quiet of Merida.
Some idea of the wealth or poverty of a country may be formed from an
acquaintance with its currency. Silver is the basis of the circulation
of Yucatan, of which the Spanish sixpence is the smallest. A fractional
sort of change, however, is represented by the seeds of the _cacao_, two
hundred and fifty grains of which are considered equal to sixpence. Of
these, five grains constitute the smallest amount ever received in
trade. In some of the provinces of the Mexican confederacy, pieces of
soap pass as a circulating medium, and lose none of their estimated
value for a few washings, provided the balance of exchange should not be
such as to carry it out of the district where it is known. The great
scarcity of money tends to reduce every thing else in an equal ratio.
Servants’ wages are from three to five dollars a month, and those of
mechanics are at a proportionate rate. Rents are almost a nominal
charge. This is partially produced by the number of untenanted buildings
that are decaying without occupants.
The manner of doing business is simple. Nothing of that stir and bustle
is seen that is to be observed in cities and towns of the United States;
nor do you find the care-worn and anxious look that is so often to be
noticed with us. Speculation, kite-flying, lame ducks, bulls and bears,
and all those curses with which large mercantile communities are usually
visited, are entirely unknown in the province of Yucatan.
During my stay in the city of Merida, a ball was given at the Governor’s
house, apropos of some political event, which I did not esteem of moment
enough to remember. As usual upon such occasions, there were grand
preparations. The man-milliners were busily engaged upon female
finery—and their shop-boards were decorated with the most unlimited
gayety. Every door-way along the principal streets, throughout the day,
was filled with ladies seated upon stools, (their favorite posture,)
working fancy articles, in anticipation of the approaching festival. But
their dresses gaping behind, and hanging loosely upon their shoulders,
and their slip-shod feet, made them appear exceedingly slovenly at home,
and awakened in me a strong desire to see them in full toilet at the
ball in the evening.
On entering the hall, I passed through a dense line of ladies arranged
along the corridors, principally mammas, and wall-flowering spinsters
garlanding the corridors. The dancing had already commenced. At first
sight, the display was dazzling; but after the lapse of a few minutes,
the fascination dissipated. The absence of all conversation, even of
small-talk, which upon such occasions is a relief, rendered even the
ball-room, like all their other domestic institutions here, exceedingly
monotonous and dull. During the dance, not a lip is seen to move—like
Marryat’s wench, they refuse to talk, because they came here to dance!
At the conclusion of a cotillon, the ladies took seats separate from the
gentlemen. They dressed here in very good taste; though a partiality for
brilliant colors was rather too conspicuously displayed for a Northern
eye. There was no extravagant display of jewellery or rich brocades, in
which particular I may be pardoned for commending their example to my
own fair countrywomen. There were many pretty faces, that only required
expression to render them charming. The skill of the man-milliner,
however, deserves full credit. I will add, for the benefit of my
bachelor friends, that there were in attendance about twelve ladies to
one gentleman. This disproportionate abundance of females is common in
warm climates, and constitutes, I believe, one of Bishop Warburton’s
arguments in defence of polygamy in Asia. The ladies in the corridors
were silently enjoying their cigars during the whole evening, and only
relieving the monotony of their occupation, by carrying on a telegraphic
correspondence with some of their neighbors by the aid of their fans.
The ball, as I have already remarked, was given at the Governor’s house,
which occupies a portion of the great square. The room was about fifty
feet long by fifteen wide. The floor was of mortar; the ceilings high
and roughly finished. The walls were ornamented with framed engravings,
and the windows hung with white cotton curtains. A fine supper was
provided; but I left the ball at an early hour, and jostled my way to my
lodgings through an immense crowd of Indians, of both sexes, attracted
by the festivities which I was just leaving.
Within the precincts of Merida, there is a regular monastery sustained
by about twelve monks. In my rambles I passed the door of one of the
friars, who invited me to walk in. He was a middle-aged man, clad in the
usual garb of his order; a loose dress, and sandals tied about his
ankles with cords. His hair was cut rounding; giving it the air of a
Scotch bonnet resting lightly upon the top of his head. He was not only
very polite, but a very learned man. In spite of my sterner judgment, I
could not but sympathize with him, as he dilated upon the historical
recollections of the old and notorious order to which he had attached
himself in his youthful days. As he spoke of it in its glory, his
enthusiasm broke forth with an almost inspired eloquence.
His room was large and airy, and appeared to have been arranged for a
study. It was furnished with two chairs and a table. A few Spanish and
Latin works were lying around. He conducted us through the long halls
and corridors of the monastery, and described to us the various
paintings that covered the walls. They were principally representations
of his tutelar saint, in the different periods of his eventful life,
from his birth to his death; also, of the crucifixion of our Saviour. At
a distance they might resemble pictures; but, on approaching them, the
charm fled. They proved to be most execrable daubs.
The church attached to the monastery is well worth a visit. It has an
immense shrine, formed by a group of figures in alto-relievo, large as
life, representing saints and angels, and all profusely ornamented with
gold and silver. One of the chapters of the church contains a
representation of the crucifixion carved upon stone, beautiful, both for
its design and its execution. It was found by the Spaniards on the
island of Cozumel, the place where Cortez first landed, and has caused
much speculation as to its origin. On returning to the room of our
worthy guide, chocolate was served; and a conversation for an hour
ensued upon the condition of the clergy of the United States, which
arose from an inquiry into the _number and denomination of our
monasteries_! I left him alone within his cheerless walls, and wended my
way back to my home; each of us, no doubt, preferring his own situation
to the other’s. I can at least speak authentically as to one.
I continued my rambles in the suburbs on the following day. Here,
dilapidation and ruin, and the want of cultivation, are too palpable.
Churches built centuries ago, and now surrounded only by a few poor
Indian huts, form a sad but instructive commentary upon the
insufficiency of arbitrary power, under the control of a religious
hierarchy, to develope the intellectual or the physical resources of a
people. Decay and desolation have overtaken all those institutions of an
elder time, which now but serve, like the footsteps upon the shore of a
deserted island, to prove the former presence of a more vigorous
civilization. The hand of man has rarely interfered to protect these
solemn memorials from oblivion. The grounds around them are but little
cultivated, and are mostly covered by a thick growth of furze, with an
occasional cocoa, orange, or tamarind tree. Here, however, the _ramon_
grows to a great height, and is very valuable, its leaves and branches
affording a nutricious food for horses.
About two miles from the city is a cemetery, appropriated to the dead of
Merida. It is located in a beautiful situation; but, like most other
public places in this country, it has been utterly neglected. It
comprehends about half an acre of land, surrounded by a high wall; and
is under the charge of a Catholic priest, who resides upon the premises.
Those who can afford it are provided with vaults, built upon the surface
of the ground. The poor are interred beneath the soil. The priest in
charge does not seem to have permitted his solemn vicinage to disturb
his digestion or dampen his spirits. His sleek and portly appearance
reminded me, at once, of the “fat, round, oily little man of God,” whose
repose Thomson disturbs in his Castle of Indolence. He was kind and
attentive in showing the premises; but his conversation was very feeble,
and indicated a mind almost demented with superstition.
The thermometer now, though the middle of January, ranges at about
eighty. We have occasional showers, but the weather continues to be
delightful. The mornings and evenings are perfectly enchanting. The
climate is not so uniform as that of Cuba; rains are more frequent, and
the dews more abundant. Colds and influenzas are common; and on this
account it cannot, I think, be recommended to invalids with pulmonary
affections.
Connected with one of the monasteries of the Jesuits, is the Church of
Jesus. It has partially lost its ancient splendor by the removal of
valuable plate and embellishments, which formerly belonged to it; and I
should not detain my readers with a notice of it here, but for a most
singular religious ceremony which I was permitted to witness within its
walls during vespers. The congregation was composed principally of
Indians. After the usual ceremonies were concluded, a large Indian
prostrated himself upon the floor before the altar, carefully adjusted
his limbs, and laid himself out as if he were preparing for burial. Men,
with coils of rope about their heads, representing crowns of thorns,
dressed in loose garments, and bending under the weight of a heavy
cross, then entered and tottered up the aisles. A cross and scull were
then passed around; the bearer repeating in Latin, as they were handed
to be kissed, “This is the death, and this is the judgment!” When this
form had been concluded, we were all supplied with whips, (I declined to
avail myself of their politeness,) the lights were extinguished, and all
was darkness. Nothing was visible but the gigantic windows, and the
outlines of the stupendous arches and fretted walls above us. The
chamber of death was never more silent than was that church for the
moment. While I was speculating upon what would probably occur next in
the order of exercises, my meditations were suddenly interrupted by the
sounds of stripes rising and echoing through every part of the vast
edifice. That there was whipping going on, I had no doubt; but whether
each one did his own whipping, or had it done by his neighbors, I was,
for some time, unable to satisfy myself; but I soon discovered that the
former was the case, upon the presumption, doubtless, that each one knew
how much his case required better than any one else. This penitential
ceremony continued for the space of fifteen minutes, at least, without
intermission. When it ceased, which was at the tinkling of a bell, the
candles were relighted, and the assemblage slowly left the church,
apparently perfectly satisfied that they had received no more than they
deserved.
I had the gratification of visiting a number of the learned men of
Merida, or “sabios,” as they are denominated by some travellers. In
Yucatan, this title is not inappropriate. They are celebrated here, and
very justly; for they are tolerably well informed; therein, having
greatly the advantage of the mass of their fellow-citizens. They seem to
be a chosen band, living and moving in a distinct body within their own
circle; like Rosicrucians, having no kindred spirits to whom they can
attach themselves, or from whom they can increase their numbers. Thus,
in the course of ordinary events, as their days approach to threescore
and ten, their order must become gradually extinguished. One of them, to
whom I paid frequent visits, was already upwards of ninety years of age,
and one of the most interesting old men I have ever beheld. He seemed
happy to see me; was fond of speaking of his youthful days; gave an
account of his early studies and recreations; and, withal, a goodly
portion of fatherly advice and admonition. His mind appeared to be
vigorous; too much so, indeed, for the feeble state of his body. He was
pleased to answer questions; and, when adverting to the state of the
country, spoke with much feeling, but despairingly, of every thing
connected with it.
I had the pleasure of meeting, to-day, with the gentlemanly owner of the
estate upon which are the celebrated ruins of Uxmal. He was intelligent
and communicative, and had travelled in the United States. He traced
back, as far as practicable, the title-deeds of his forefathers to this
land, in order, if possible, to gain some clew to its early history; but
it led to nothing that could be made available to the traveller. He
expresses great confidence in Mr. Stephens, who is now investigating
these ruins, and to whom he had rendered every facility for the
prosecution of his task. I asked him what he would take for the land
upon which those ruins were situated; and he readily replied, five
thousand dollars. I declined to embark in a speculation in these lands,
but did not hesitate to avail myself of the letters with which he was so
kind as to favor me to the majordomos of his several estates; for which
I beg leave here to express my most sincere thanks.
The social condition of the female sex in Yucatan, so far as my
observation extends, compares very favorably with that of females of the
same rank in the other provinces of Mexico. The Yucatecos ladies
generally attend to their household affairs, and to the education of
their children; but though their habits are rather domestic, the
standard of virtue is not to be estimated as high as in the United
States. Their personal attractions are quite inconsiderable. In the
absence of animation and intelligence, nothing is left to fascinate or
to be loved. The brunette complexion, regular features, black hair, and
eyes of the same color, predominate. They dress in the Spanish
fashion—bright colors are generally preferred—with a light veil thrown
over their heads, and a profusion of jewellery and other ornaments
carefully arranged about their persons. They seldom walk out, except to
church, where they appear to more advantage than at any other place. At
their houses, their carelessness of dress amounts to slovenliness. They
may be seen at almost any hour of the day, swinging in their hammocks,
with cigars in their mouths, or making their toilet in the doorway of
their dwellings. It is a general custom here for the ladies to sleep in
this suspended apparatus. Those who are accustomed to the luxury of a
bedstead, are not easily reconciled to this arrangement; and I have in
vain tried to discover a sufficient reason for the prevalence of these
articles, to the exclusion of the bedstead.
The gambling propensities of the ladies are as strong as those of the
gentlemen; which, however, they do not indulge in to so great an extent.
They mingle at the public tables, but good order and decorum always
prevail.
A stranger is particularly struck with the apathy of the wife in her
household affairs. She is seldom seen in conversation with her husband.
Being poorly educated, she has no literary resources whatever. She is
rarely seen with a book in her hand. The common topics of her household
form the only points of intellectual contact between herself and her
husband. Sleep is her chief resource; and, in the swing of the hammock,
many of her best hours are lost in forgetfulness. Music, I found to my
great surprise, was but little cultivated.
Considerable attention is paid to the education of children; but it is
not deemed necessary, by parents, for them to proceed much beyond the
first rudiments. The public school system is adopted, and kept up with
some degree of ability, by the government and corporations. The towns
are divided off into districts throughout the state, in which are two
colleges and fifty-seven schools; besides others of select tuition, in
which the elements of an ordinary education are taught, together with
the doctrines of the Romish church.
The impressions which I have received of the male population are as yet
necessarily undefined, and would not perhaps warrant me in attempting to
characterize them; but, so far as my knowledge extends, I am inclined to
think them a proud, though not a supercilious people. It is that
Castilian sort of pride which is identified with the old Spanish
character; and which has descended from him as naturally to the Mexican
as his siesta. This gives them, even in their ignorance, some character.
While they have this pride about them, we may be sure they will not
degenerate into Caffres. Though they have declared their independence of
Mexico, and have promised to the world to prove themselves worthy of
enjoying entire political liberty, yet it is very evident to a stranger,
that a majority of the population are perfectly indifferent whether they
return or remain under their present rulers. This apathy in political
matters indicates a condition of the national mind, which is likely to
be but little affected by the form of government under which it exists.
Their constitution much resembles that of the United States. They have a
President, Vice President, and two houses of legislators. The elective
franchise extends to all, not excepting either the Indians or the
blacks. The latter class is principally composed of runaway slaves from
the neighboring islands. Their number, however, is small. All religions
are tolerated; but that of the Catholic is _protected_!
In their private dwellings very little or no taste is displayed. Their
furniture, generally, is plain. They are not very choice or select in
the ornaments for their rooms, French lithographs in frames, such as are
usually hung about in our bar-rooms and barbers’ shops, being almost
universal.
The people throughout Yucatan are exceedingly polite to strangers. It
would be well for foreigners, however, to know that when, on presenting
letters of introduction to the Yucatecos, they tender you all their
earthly possessions, together with their personal services into the
bargain; it would be wise to get accustomed as soon as possible to the
habit of being satisfied with their individual attentions, without
expecting an immediate transfer of the title-deeds of their estates.
This would save much disappointment, as many of their civilities are
empty ceremonies, offered only in conformity with their national
customs.
Commercial transactions are limited to the supply of retail dealers in
the city and country. The principal articles of trade are dry goods,
imported from England and France, by the way of the Balize and Havana.
The exportation of the products of the country is conducted through the
same channel; but owing to the poverty of the soil, and the supineness
of the people, it is likewise very circumscribed. On the whole, so far
as my personal observation has yet extended, the land presents a
barrenness of appearance which offers few of those inducements that have
been held out for emigration, either to the husbandman or the mechanic.
The agricultural products of Yucatan are numerous. Corn, resembling that
of New England, which constitutes one of the principal articles of food,
and from which tortillas are prepared, is raised here in great
abundance. Also black beans, so well known to travellers by the name of
_frejoles_, constitute an agricultural staple of the country. Heniken is
cultivated, and prepared for exportation, to a considerable extent. It
is known in the United States as “Sisal hemp,” and takes its name from
the port whence it is shipped. It is indigenous, and grows upon a rocky
and apparently barren soil, to the height of about twelve feet, from a
short rough trunk. It is cut at a certain period, and the fibres drawn
out and dried, after which it is prepared and put up for the market.
Sugar and cotton are raised in some of the eastern districts; but very
little attention is paid to their cultivation beyond the small demand
for the home consumption. Hats, from the leaf of the palm, are
manufactured in the interior in large quantities for exportation, and
are shipped at Campeachy. They are known in our market as the “Campeachy
hat.”
There has been much speculation, to little purpose, respecting the
original inhabitants of Yucatan. It is a subject so involved in doubt,
that any satisfactory conclusions can scarcely be expected. Waldeck[1]
is of opinion that it was settled by different nations, broken off from
Tabasco and other states, who particularly used the Maya idiom. He gives
further evidence of this fact, from the facial formation observable in
sundry of the Indians at Merida, particularly in the women, who
resemble, in their physiognomy, the sculptured faces upon the stones at
Palenque. The delicately tapered straight leg, small knee joints, and
large shoulders, are mentioned as characteristics strongly marking a
similarity of descent. The more distant Indians, and especially those of
the mountains, have preserved their idioms as well as their ancient
customs in a much greater degree—their language being more pure, and
their manners more uniform.
That these people are the descendants of the ancient Mayas, there is
hardly room to doubt. That tongue now pervades the whole peninsula, and
is understood and spoken even by the whites. They were well known to be
far advanced in civilization when first discovered, the strongest
evidences of which are scattered throughout the province. Their
calendars have been deciphered; and their astronomical symbols and
hieroglyphical signs have been identified with those of the Mexicans.
They had also their picture writings, called _analthes_, which were
executed upon bark, and folded up in the same shape as books.[2]
Waldeck says, and a residence of several years gives weight to his
impressions, that the Maya now spoken partakes very little of the
ancient language of the country; more especially in the neighborhood of
large towns and cities. The continued intercourse that has existed
between the Indians and Spaniards, since the conquest, has Castilianized
their idiom to such an extent, that the original is nearly lost to those
who are now held in vassalage. The affinity observable between the Maya
and Tchole dialects proves them to be a complete medley; and that this
mixture occurred at an early period, he was convinced from the proofs he
held in his own possession of the ancient idioms. For instance, in
referring to his vocabulary, he finds that those words ending in _un_,
in the Tchole _tulum_, (a circle,) are _tulun_. The _x_ has the sound of
_ch_ in _church_. The Mayas are indebted to Francis Gabriel Bonaventure,
author of a work published in 1560, called _Arte del Idioma Maya;_ and
to R. P. F. Pedro Beltran, who wrote in 1746,[3] two Franciscan monks,
for this style of pronunciation. Waldeck affirms, that the language now
spoken in Yucatan is not that for which those authors laid down the
principles.
It appears that these people had no written language other than their
hieroglyphics. The idioms now used were put into their present shape by
their conquerors, from sounds representing things, gathered from the
lips of the Indians. Definitions of their figurative writing, so far as
it can be ascertained, might lead to more satisfactory results. They
might serve as guides to some knowledge of a race, which evidently
practised the useful and the ornamental arts; but which probably had
emigrated to this hemisphere previous to the invention of letters.
The Maya dialect is very barren of expression; and, to a stranger,
difficult of pronunciation. The same word often conveys different
meanings, from the peculiar manner of sounding it. In fact, to speak it
well, requires careful study, and an untiring practice. Under these
obstructions, it would take a long time to become so familiarized to the
tongue, as to be able to communicate with that people in a way to
discover any of those traditions that may yet lurk among them. But,
after all, they are like an exhausted mine; the metal which the curious
seek has been extracted; and it need only be sought for in those regions
where the soil has never been disturbed.
The dress of the Indian is of the simplest kind. His food principally
consists of corn; which is prepared by parboiling, and crushing on a
stone by means of a roller. When ready, it is made into balls; and,
after being mixed with water, it is ready to be eaten. Corn is broken in
the same way, and made into cakes called tortillas, which are the
favorite food of all classes of society in this province. The wages for
Indian service are from one to four dollars per month; the largest
portion of which, in very many cases, is expended for candles and other
offerings to their chosen saint. In general these Indians are extremely
mild and inoffensive. Drinking is their most decided vice; but even
this, as we have already remarked, cannot be called a prevailing one.
They are a listless rather than indolent race, and never “think for the
morrow.” They have quite an amiable expression in their countenances,
and their mode of conversation is pleasing. Their features remind one of
those of the Asiatic more than of any other. Their stature is short and
thick-set, having but little resemblance to that of the North American
Indian. We looked in vain for their pastimes—they have none, except
those connected with the church. They seldom dance or sing. They are
wholly under the surveillance of the priests, and are the most zealous
devotees to their rites and ceremonies. Their hours of leisure are
passed in their hammocks, or else in silently squatting about the
corners of the streets. Though they wear the _outside_ show of freedom,
they have not even as much liberty as the most abject vassal of the
middle ages. They are literally degraded to the position of serfs. They
are always in debt, and are consequently at the mercy of their
creditors, who, by the law of the country, have a lien upon their
services until their debts are cancelled. This, together with the
absence of nearly all the ordinary encouragements to exertion, common in
a colder climate, and among a more progressive people, conspires to keep
the Indian Yucatecos in a state of listless bondage, which they endure
without a murmur, and we may add, from our own observation, without much
positive suffering. Legalized slavery, as it is well known, does not
exist in any part of Mexico.
[Illustration: A YUCATECO INDIAN’S HOUSE.]
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