[Illustration: THE MIGHTY MISSISSIPPI FROM THE BLUFFS OF NATCHEZ]
[Illustration: THE GATES OF DUNLEITH]
[Illustration: Natchez, Symbol of the Old South]
NOLA NANCE OLIVER
_Natchez_
SYMBOL OF THE OLD SOUTH
HASTINGS HOUSE · PUBLISHERS · NEW YORK
[Illustration: MONTEIGNE—Stairhall]
This book is dedicated to Louise and Mary.
_Copyright, 1940, by Nola Nance Oliver. Printed in the U. S. A._
_Foreword_
Natchez derives its name from the sun-worshiping Indian tribe, the
Natchez, who were the original owners of the area on which the city is
located. It is situated in Adams county, in the southwestern part of the
state of Mississippi, on bluffs 200 feet high overlooking the
Mississippi River, and is midway between Memphis and New Orleans. It is
accessible by railway, steamboat, motor highway and airway. It is
particularly proud of the Natchez Trace Parkway, a modern concrete road
over an old Indian trace or trail from Nashville to Natchez. This
highway is a link in one of the most important commercial and historic
highways in the United States reaching from Washington, D. C., to
Mexico.
Today Natchez is a recognized center of interest because in the city and
its vicinity there are a greater number of original ante-bellum mansions
than in any other community in America—some 75 or more.
Natchez is the second oldest town in the United States, being next in
age to St. Augustine, Florida. It has lived under five different flags,
each of which contributed romantic flavor to the section. From 1714 to
1763 it was under the flag of France; from 1764 to 1780 under the flag
of England; and from 1780 to 1798 under the flag of Spain. In 1798 the
first United States flag in the Lower Mississippi Valley was raised in
Natchez. Years after the raising of the “stars and stripes”, another
flag which some call “the conquered banner”, the beloved flag of the
Confederate States of America, floated over Natchez, 1861-’65.
Natchez “Under the Hill” applies to that part of the town along the
water front and under the bluffs. It flourished during the heyday of
steamboating on the Mississippi. The inroads of the river have washed
away the streets, and only a few buildings remain. One very interesting
home, “Magnolia Vale”, has been preserved and is presented in this book.
The majority of these old homes contain original pieces of furniture,
china, coin silver service, draperies, carpets, wall decorations of
exquisite workmanship, huge mirrors in massive goldleaf frames,
paintings bearing authentic signatures of great masters, and hand-carved
marble mantels. Laces, silks, and rich costumes are displayed today by
third, fourth and fifth generations.
It seems hardly possible that the world could move on and leave one
small community undisturbed in its ancient grandeur. The hand of destiny
seems indeed to uphold and enshrine this hallowed region. The estates
have descended from generation to generation, many of them today being
owned and occupied by descendants of the original owners.
Natchezians have been entirely satisfied, even proud, to be termed
“provincial”. A sense of inherent aristocracy has given these people a
secure and placid self-sufficiency which neither time nor stress of
outside conditions nor the frettings of progress can jar or mar.
Within the past ten years tourists have come. They clamored for
entertainment. And now, maintaining the established reputation for
“hospitality of the true South”, each Spring season Natchez opens wide
her gates and invites the world to come “where the Old South still
lives”.
The “company dress” of great-grandparents, which has been sacredly
stored away for scores of years, is brought out, and overnight the whole
town, in manners and dress, returns to those halcyon days of long ago.
The streets are filled with young and old in ante-bellum costumes. Sweet
olive trees and magnolia trees are in fragrant bloom, flower gardens are
fresh and inviting, moss-draped oaks ring with the song of native birds,
the old homes are opened, treasures are placed on view, and visitors are
given a Southland welcome. The “Pilgrimage” is on!
In addition to guided tours through ante-bellum houses special
entertainments are planned for each evening. Confederate balls,
historical pageants, and many other colorful events of the past are
re-enacted. Spirituals are sung in old-fashioned Negro churches where
the “pahson” is eager to greet “our white friends”. On spacious
plantation grounds an old-time Southern barbecue prepared by black
mammies will be served.
A custom which has long prevailed in Natchez is the placing of coins in
a box for old darky beggars. On Saturdays every merchant observes “Penny
Day”, as it is called. It originated as a time saver, the box being
placed in a convenient location to avoid interruption of the store’s
business. There are many regular “customers” for this feature and they
are always welcome. “Penny Day” is a thoughtful, good-natured gesture to
the needy Negro from his “white folks”.
Pictures of the old homes with accurate data and intimate stories and
legends constitute _Natchez, Symbol of the Old South_. Most of the
photographs are by Earl Norman.
A fascinating visit is given you by one who knows and loves the
Southland. You will be delighted and enriched.
[Illustration: Uncle Wash, a Regular Customer on Penny Day]
_The Natchez Tribe_
A bronze plaque of a handsome Indian chief has been erected in a granite
wall overlooking the great “Father of Waters”, in memory of the Natchez
Indian tribe from which the city of Natchez derives its name.
The Natchez Indians were of Aztec origin and were in possession of the
Natchez country when the French came in 1700. They were sun-worshiping
Indians, and their great chief proclaimed himself “brother to the Sun”.
White Apple village, ten miles south of Natchez, was headquarters of the
Natchez tribe. They resented the invasion of the French explorers into
their country, and because of an insult (real or fancied) to their Chief
by a French Commandant, on November 28, 1729, the Indians slaughtered
the entire French settlement at Fort Rosalie. Later a French colony,
with the assistance of the Choctaws, a warring Indian tribe, annihilated
every member of the Natchez tribe.
Undoubtedly this was the country of the Natchez tribe, and the beautiful
plaque is a deserved reminder of the days when the land was one hundred
per cent American.
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
[Illustration: ON NATCHEZ TRACE]
_Natchez Trace_
Opportunity for easy travel, over trails that were once Indian foot
paths, is offered now to motorists on perfect concrete highways. Modern
roads, which slowly evolved from dirt roads to paved highways, stretch
from Nashville, Tennessee, in a continuous smooth concrete ribbon to
Natchez, on the great Mississippi River.
Days when the beauty of the Southland could be viewed only from a
steamboat deck; days when transportation of passenger and freight could
be handled only by oxcart or slow stage coach or horse and buggy (a
three-weeks journey from Nashville to Natchez) are gone forever, and
soon the Deep South will be directly connected by a day’s pleasant
journey with all the cities and towns along the Natchez Trace.
By treaty with Choctaw and Chickasaw Indian tribes the United States
Government in 1801 secured a permit to open the Natchez Trace as a wagon
road over which the mails could travel.
That same trail or “trace” from Nashville to Natchez is 500 miles of
consecutive beauty spots along continuous acres of parkways and historic
highways.
Mrs. Roan Fleming Byrnes, serving as President of the Natchez Trace
Highway Committee, in a recent publication says:
“The ancient trail was traveled by most of the well-known figures in
the history of our country: Jefferson Davis; Peggy and Lorenzo Dow,
the revivalists; the fast riding John Morgan; the famous Audubon.
Lafayette rode over the Trace during his visit to the Natchez country;
Aaron Burr was given his preliminary trial for treason under two
liveoaks just beside the Trace; Meriwether Lewis died at an inn on the
Trace when returning from his Western explorations.
“The life of Andrew Jackson is closely interwoven with the windings of
the Natchez Trace. At Springfield plantation, in Jefferson county,
Mississippi, Jackson was married to Rachael Robards; and, near
Nashville, Tennessee, is the ‘Hermitage’, the home he built for
Rachael.
“It was when marching his rejected Tennessee militia homeward over the
Trace from Natchez to Nashville in 1813 that Jackson acquired his
famous nickname, ‘Old Hickory’.”
The unusual beauty of the deep cut roadways, worn down by travel
throughout the years, and the overlapping, moss-draped trees, will be
preserved as far as possible.
Many of these old roads running into Natchez lead through deep,
tunnel-like ways whose sides are sheer walls ten to eighty feet high and
draped with long fronds of overhanging Spanish moss.
These roadways of tunnels and curves are weird and beautiful, affording
an irresistible attraction for all travelers.
_Airlie_
Built prior to 1790, “Airlie” is a rambling, wide-spread building of
cottage type, on a rolling elevation at the end of Myrtle street. It
attracts attention through its unusual simplicity of exterior. Its
architecture is entirely different from other ante-bellum homes in the
community.
This great departure from the usual style is due to the age of Airlie.
Its original building date is ahead of all the available history of
Natchez.
Additions have been made, from time to time, until today Airlie stands
twelve rooms broad, reaching a row of venerable cedars with their
swaying moss which sweeps the eaves of this old home of the Ayres P.
Merrill family.
The central portion is built on old Spanish style, with beams and
timbers held together by wooden pegs; later additions show that these
were made by somewhat improved methods.
Airlie is often referred to as “the old Buckner home”. It was occupied
by the Buckner family at the time of its first recorded history and
during the War Between the States when conflicts at Airlie left blood
stains on its floors and walls which are clearly visible today.
This house was for a time used as a hospital for Northern soldiers.
When Airlie passed from the Buckner family it became the property of
another family of distinction, that of Ayres P. Merrill, whose
descendants occupy Airlie today, with its treasure of rosewood and
mahogany antiques.
[Illustration: Airlie]
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
The present Merrill family are the proud possessors of hundreds of
pieces of Du Barry and other imported china from France and Belgium, as
well as a silver service of rare design and sacred antiquity which might
well excite the envy of Royalty itself.
There are many persons who believe Airlie was the first residence built
in the Natchez territory. No definite date in authentic records can be
found.
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
_Arlington_
[Illustration: Arlington]
Where Natchez’ Main street ends, the great wide gates of Arlington open.
Live oaks with pendant gray moss line the driveway, which winds through
beds of vari-colored irises to one of the most distinctively attractive
ante-bellum homes in the South.
Of Southern Colonial type, constructed of red brick with stately white
Tuscan columns supporting the upper story gallery, Arlington today, more
than a century old, presents a magnificent appearance.
The great carved entrance door leading to the spacious hall is crowned
with intricately wrought fanlights, and the broad veranda is approached
by wide steps of concrete.
Arlington was built for Mrs. Jane White, eldest daughter of Pierre
Surget, who came from France in the early days of Natchez. The house was
completed about 1820 but on the very first night of her residence in the
home of her heart’s desire Mrs. White passed away suddenly. Many tales
have been told of a mysterious death but none has been verified. At her
death Mrs. White left Arlington and all its treasures to her sister,
Mrs. Bingaman.
[Illustration: HALL]
[Illustration: IMPOSING COLUMNED DOORWAY LEADING FROM HALL]
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
Five generations of the Pierre Surget family occupied Arlington. Each in
turn contributed to its wealth of rare treasures. The original furniture
was imported from France.
Across the broad hallway which is hung with rare paintings by old-world
masters such as Vernet, Baroccio, Carlo Dolci, and Coccanari, is the
Music Room which contains a spinet more than three hundred years old.
There are family portraits in this room—some of musicians in the
family—by such renowned artists as Sully, Audubon, Albani, Fidanza, and
Maratti.
The Library holds some five thousand books.
Mrs. Hubert Barnum, the present owner of Arlington, comes from a long
line of Natchez aristocracy. Arlington was given her as a wedding gift
from her husband, who recently passed away. Mrs. Barnum while keeping
the home atmosphere of Arlington has made it, also, a veritable private
museum, rich in beauty, in rare books, and antiques.
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
_Auburn_
Built in 1812, a full century and a quarter ago, by Dr. Stephen Duncan,
“Auburn” mansion is noted today as in bygone historic days for its
architectural beauty and the natural beauty of its surrounding acres.
Auburn is a magnificent red brick structure with great white columns
supporting its broad front galleries. The bricks were made on the
premises by slave labor. On the first floor are spacious drawing rooms,
a large dining room, a family dining room, library, smoking room, and
two hallways. Above stairs are six huge bedrooms with high ceilings.
In the rear of the main mansion is a two-storied brick kitchen which is
connected with the main building by a flagged patio. The servants’
quarters are above with the kitchen and pantries on the ground floor.
The kitchen has the giant fireplace with cranes and pots and the
old-time “spit” where meats were roasted.
Entrance to Auburn is through a classic doorway which has been aptly
called “an architect’s dream of beauty”.
[Illustration: Classic Entrance Doorway]
[Illustration: Grand Hallway]
Inside the house there is a majestic spiral stairway rising to the grand
high hallway, without support except at its base. This amazing feature
intrigues the imagination.
In early days Auburn entertained many celebrities, among them Henry
Clay, Edward Everett Hale, and John Howard Payne. The same gracious
hospitality maintains today.
Auburn is the property of the city of Natchez by deed of gift from
Stephen Duncan, and is used as the deed stipulates for the “amusement,
entertainment, and recreation, without cost or monetary consideration,
of Natchez citizens”. It is the handsome headquarters of several
distinguished local clubs.
The women’s clubs of Natchez have undertaken the task of furnishing the
lower floor with valuable antiques of the period of its original
furnishings.
The acreage surrounding it is known as Duncan Park in compliment to the
Duncan family who gave it to the city. It contains huge, aged,
moss-draped oaks, alluring sweet olive trees, famous magnolias,
shrubbery and vines, old-fashioned gardens, a golf course, and
playground with swings and merry-go-rounds used every day in the year
for the health and frolic of children.
[Illustration: The Unsupported Spiral Stairway Rises to the Grand
Hallway.]
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
[Illustration: Old Milk House. Slaves pumped cool cistern water into
long zinc vats providing Auburn’s cooling system for its crocks of
milk.]
[Illustration: Food prepared in the kitchen below the servants’
quarters was carried in hot urns to dining rooms by servants stationed
along “the ways”.]
_Belmont_
[Illustration: Belmont]
Sturdy as the Rock of Gibraltar stands this imposing Neo-Greek mansion.
It was known originally as “Cleremont”, and was built in the early 40’s
by one Loxley Thistle.
Storm and strife have beaten against the doors of this stronghold but it
was built after a disastrous tornado which put a great fear in the minds
of builders of that period, and Belmont (as it was renamed) was
constructed to resist fierce storms, although at the same time exquisite
lines of beauty were maintained.
This place with its thirty acres of land has changed hands oftener than
any ante-bellum home in Natchez. Its history is broken and uncertain. It
was undoubtedly built by imported craftsmen who had the help of local
carpenters and slave labor.
Many prominent families of Natchez are identified with Belmont at some
period in its history. Within its fort-like walls Natchez elite often
sipped rare old wine from its private sub-cellar in frequent
celebrations.
Belmont has its ghost story of whispering souls wandering through the
high-ceilinged halls—ghosts created to scare the slaves, and “whispers”
which proved to be the swishing of chimney swallows rushing in and out
of their nests.
The approach to Belmont is a majestic line of moss-draped cedars and
giant oak trees standing sentinel-like over the gardens of days long
passed.
Louis Fry, present owner, plans the complete restoration of Belmont. It
may soon ring with echoes of happier days.
_Belvidere_
On Homochitto street, in the shadow of magnificent “Dunleith”, is a
simple white cottage, “Belvidere”, which for generations has been the
home of the Henderson family.
Originally Belvidere was the center of a fourteen acre tract of wooded
land which was the property of Christopher Miller, who was secretary to
the Spanish Governor of Natchez, Gayoso de Lemos. The Hendersons are
descendants of Christopher Miller.
Simple and unostentatious this small cottage stands with her very toes,
as it were, on the street where once broad acreage spread. These acres
gave space in later years for a public school and a paved highway.
Belvidere is more than 100 years old, and has been for more than a
century owned and occupied by one family.
It is simply furnished, and much of it is the original furniture, more
than 100 years old. Two pictures of special interest adorn the walls,
silhouettes of Samuel Brooks and his wife—“the first Mayor of Natchez
and his Lady”. These pictures were made in 1753.
Rare Venetian glass and china and many exquisite pieces of porcelain are
found in Belvidere.
The property is now owned and occupied by Mrs. Florence Henderson Kelly
and her son and daughter, Thomas G. and Ellen N.
[Illustration: Belvidere]
_Brandon Hall_
[Illustration: Brandon Hall]
This old home is not in the immediate Natchez area but its owner and his
descendants are so closely allied with all that is Natchez that Brandon
Hall is rightfully considered a Natchez asset and is included in its
list of ante-bellum homes.
Gerard Brandon of Ireland came to Natchez prior to the Revolutionary
War, and more than a century ago “Selma Plantation”, from whose acres
came the grounds of Brandon Hall, was built by him. Mr. Brandon was a
successful farmer and was one of the original pecan growers in the
county. He came to Natchez from South Carolina.
Brandon Hall was built by Gerard Brandon the Third in 1856, and stands
today a splendid monument to a grand old family. It is sturdily
constructed. Its timbers are secured with thumb screws and wooden pegs.
_Cherry Grove_
[Illustration: Cherry Grove]
Built of primeval timbers, cut and hewn by slaves on the place, the old
home at Cherry Grove plantation “sits tight” secured by dependable
wooden pegs. It was built in 1788 when time and expense of labor were of
little consideration, and nails and modern building equipment were not
available.
Pierre Surget of La Rochelle, France, built this Spanish style house, on
a Spanish land grant, for his wife, Katherine d’Hubert, and from this
couple have come some of Natchez’ most prominent families.
Mr. Surget was a seaman for many years before coming to the Natchez
country, and Cherry Grove was built with the sturdiness of a seaworthy
vessel.
The home has never passed out of the Surget family. Its present owner,
Mrs. Carlotta Surget McKittrick, now possesses the original Spanish land
grant made to Pierre Surget in the 1700’s.
In a small cemetery within sight of the old home, enclosed by an
imported iron fence, lie the bodies of Pierre Surget and his wife,
Katherine.
Descendants of the Surget slaves remain in the “quarters” to look after
the place, and to plant and gather cotton from its vast acres.
The house is unoccupied. Much of the original furnishing remains intact,
and a Surget heir is today sole owner of the quaint old dwelling of her
illustrious forbears.
_The Briers_
[Illustration: Varina Howell and Jefferson Davis Were Married in This
Room.]
[Illustration: The Briers]
Could Jefferson Davis and his beloved wife, Varina, return to The Briers
today they would be pleased to find it in a perfect state of
preservation.
“The Briers”, a typical story-and-a-half country home, was given to
Louise Kemp at the time of her marriage to William Burr Howell, who was
a cousin of Aaron Burr. And here Varina Howell was born May 7, 1826.
This home was the scene of Varina’s marriage to Jefferson Davis on
February 12, 1845. Mr. Davis later became “President of the
Confederacy”.
The house is situated on a knoll overlooking the Mississippi river, with
a view of the cotton lands of Louisiana. The view of the Mississippi
shown in the end papers was taken from the lawn of this house. It stands
in the center of a forest of oak, pine, and pecan trees, and can be
reached by only one narrow winding roadway, through deep woods, around
bayous and ravines, hanging heavy with bushes and brambles. The house is
quite similar to the Virginia type of country home.
When the present owner, Mrs. W. W. Wall, purchased The Briers a few
years ago, it was in a sad state of dilapidation. By great and loving
labor, and generous expenditure of money and time, The Briers today is
in perfect condition. It is now a charming credit to Natchez and to the
memory of Jefferson Davis and his wife, Varina.
The early architectural lines have been followed and materials similar
to the original ones have been used. The broad veranda across the entire
front, with many small wooden pillars and hand-turned spindle
bannisters, the wide entrance steps, the quaint old dormer windows with
their 12-pane sashes and heavy green blinds, form the perfect picture of
the original plantation home of the Howells and Jefferson Davis.
The simplicity of the floor plan is pleasing. The furniture includes
many reproductions of rare original pieces. There is a restful, sacred
serenity in The Briers worthy of its illustrious original owners.
For the pleasure of visitors from the outside world, the present
mistress keeps open house throughout the year, and hundreds of
interested persons from every part of the United States pass through the
portals of this home—the shrine of Jefferson Davis and Varina Howell.
_The Burn_
Another old home that was once situated in the center of vast acreage is
“The Burn”. Streets have been cut through, lots sold and residences
erected until today this quaint old home, originally the residence of
John P. Walworth of Ohio, is in the very heart of the residence district
of Natchez.
While the “old Walworth home”, as it was so long known, was built about
1834, its most interesting history is concerned with the war of 1861-65.
The Burn is a homey-looking house of the story-and-a-half cottage type
with spacious halls and nineteen rooms in the main building. High
ceilings, mahogany woodwork, and wide, hand-rubbed board floors are
indicative of its early period.
By reason of its spacious and numerous rooms, and its accessibility to
the river front and the Battery, “The Burn” was made headquarters for
the Federal Artillery in the War Between the States. With only 24 hours’
notice the family left their comfortable home to be occupied by the
enemy. Major Coleman and his soldiers took possession of The Burn, and
today on a window pane in the house can be seen the Major’s full name as
cut there by a diamond more than seventy-five years ago.
Within the last few years The Burn has been purchased by S. B. Laub, who
is a direct descendant of the Beekman family. Mr. and Mrs. Laub have
reclaimed and rebuilt every part of the old house with strict observance
of the original architecture.
[Illustration: An Interesting Treatment Of Transom And Side Lights]
[Illustration: The Burn]
A letter from the granddaughter of the original owner of The Burn
written to its present owners and published in the _Natchez Democrat_
tells the complete story:
“The Burn property when purchased by John P. Walworth in 1834 extended
from Union street to Clifton Heights. The home was erected the same
year, and got its name from the Scotch, meaning ‘The Brook’, which ran
through the property where Pearl street now is.
“Architects and builders were brought from the East, the finest that
could be found. It took more than a year to build, and has been
compared to the Temple, for scarcely the sound of hammer was heard in
its erection. The grand old home has stood fire, storm, and war.
“When Grant’s army took possession of the town, The Burn became army
headquarters, and was later turned into a hospital for Union soldiers.
The wonderful old trees, the lawn and gardens fell before the axe and
sword.
“After war clouds rolled away it was restored to its owner in a ruined
condition. Generations have passed over its threshold loving it as a
living being. The sons of the family bravely answered their country’s
call to arms and returned with untarnished records. Many brides have
left its loving care. The mystery of life, birth and death have
hallowed its walls with pride and sorrow.
“We relinquish our ownership rights into other hands; our escutcheon
unsullied by debt or shame.
“We rejoice that it will be again a loved home, and may the happiness
of the Walworth name continue to follow and bless the present owners.”
_Choctaw_
[Illustration: Choctaw]
Such dilapidated grandeur cannot be found in all the country around as
one beholds at Choctaw. “Built to endure and determined not to fall”
seems to ring from every stone and pillar of this gigantic old mansion.
Once it was the center of a city block but now on the busy corner of
Wall and High streets traffic of every sort brushes its very door.
Because this property was so long owned and occupied by a Natchez
philanthropist, Alvarez Fisk, “Choctaw” is known far and wide as the
“old Fisk home”.
This stately example of classic architecture was built by one Sarah
Neibert. Records show that it was deeded to Alvarez Fisk about 1840.
Fisk was born in Massachusetts in 1788. During the early 90’s Choctaw
was used as “Stanton College for Women”, and many Natchez women were
educated there.
Time and decay have had their turn at Choctaw. The great stone pillars
stand proudly, and boldly present a magnificent front; exquisite
fanlights adorn the great doors which were built extra wide to
accommodate the hoopskirted ladies of early days; walls and lofty
ceilings stand in sturdy defiance of wind and rain and vandalism, and
yet the crumbling corners, the tumbling formal entrance, and the rundown
appearance of Choctaw produce a feeling of solemn sadness.
The foundation and walls of Choctaw are firm, and the day may come when
this old palace will be restored to its former beauty and glory.
_Concord_
[Illustration: Concord]
“Concord” was built in 1788 by Don Gayoso de Lemos, representative in
the Natchez Territory of the King of Spain.
The name, “Concord”, was chosen because the Governor felt that this word
expressed the status of his people living in peace and amity.
The dwelling was two-and-a-half stories. The lower floor was of brick
and the upper portion was frame. There was a driveway beneath the long
flight of steps at the front entrance. The house was richly furnished
with importations from Spain.
A few years ago “Concord” was destroyed by fire and Natchez lost an
intriguing landmark.
Today the handsome iron-railed outside double stairway marks the spot
that was once the ruling center of government, and the social hub during
the colorful days of the Spanish regime.
[Illustration: COTTAGE GARDENS—STAIR HALL]
_Cottage Gardens_
[Illustration: Cottage Gardens]
When “Cottage Gardens” was built, some hundred and forty years ago,
Natchez was young, and homes at that time were of compact, inconspicuous
design.
The land upon which this home stands was a part of the original Spanish
grant to Don Jose Vidal, a young Spanish nobleman. “Cottage Gardens” was
so named because of the beautiful gardens surrounding the cottage. It is
recorded that these gardens were destroyed during the War Between the
States when Union soldiers used the grounds as a pasture for their
horses.
Don Jose Vidal was a military governor and Captain in a Spanish army.
His duties took him across the river from Natchez to a place now known
as Vidalia. When his beloved young wife died her tomb was built on a
high bluff on the estate overlooking the Mississippi River. While
engaged in official service across the broad waters, Capt. Vidal could
look out at any moment and see the spot where his beautiful Donna Vidal
was buried. Don Jose is buried in a Natchez Cemetery. A great shaft has
been erected above his grave and is inscribed with a lengthy epitaph
which mentions that “he was a friend of his Sovereign”.
[Illustration: LIVING ROOM AND DINING ROOM]
Cottage Gardens has been for several generations owned and occupied by
the Foster family. Although the exterior is on simple lines, the house
is surprisingly spacious. The wide hall through the center contains a
stairway of unusual architectural attractiveness. Its broad steps with
mahogany handrailing lead up along the left wall almost to the ceiling,
then leaving the wall the stairway crosses the hall in a graceful spiral
curve and the ascending flight is finished along the right wall.
At the rear end of the hall is a beautiful arch and doorway with
fanlight above and plain side glass. It is a facsimile of the entrance
door at the opposite end of the hall.
From the present owners, the Foster family, comes Mary Kate Norman, the
wife of Karl Norman, whose photographic art in picturing the old homes
of Natchez has given him a prominent place among artists of the South.
[Illustration: This family room in Cottage Gardens has an eight foot
bed and a child’s bed.]
[Illustration: THE TOMB OF DONE JOSE VIDAL]
_D’Evereux_
[Illustration: D’Evereux]
By recent engineering survey Highway No. 61 from Memphis to New Orleans
passes the grounds that once formed a part of D’Evereux acres. Motorists
on this highway, when within a mile of Natchez, can see this mansion, in
perfect architecture, standing like a great Greek temple near the
roadway. Sweeping tropical moss hangs from the sentinel oaks which guard
this magnificent home.
Built in 1840 for William St. John Elliott and his wife, it was given
her family name, “D’Evereux”, and this home, one of the most spacious in
the community, was the scene of many happy affairs for the socially
prominent.
Great double drawing rooms and a banquet room, while not containing the
original furnishings, show woodwork and walls, hand-turned railings and
doorways, evidence of the excellent taste of the builders.
After more than forty years the master-owner of D’Evereux died. The home
was closed for a long while; later the widow with some of her young
relatives opened the mansion and it became again the scene of many
joyful gatherings.
Upon the death of Mrs. Elliott, “D’Evereux” was willed to her niece,
Mrs. Margaret Martin Shields. During Mrs. Shields’ occupancy, it was
selected as the most perfect home, in style and setting, in the entire
Southland, and for this reason it is shown in that exquisite motion
picture, “The Heart of Maryland”.
Within the past few years D’Evereux has been purchased by Miss Myra
Smith of Chicago. With great pride in the ownership of one of the
South’s most majestic ante-bellum homes, Miss Smith has restored every
portion of the old home, which today presents such magnificent
perfection as to bring forth exclamations of wonder from all who travel
that section of the Natchez Trace highway.
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
_Cherokee_
[Illustration: Cherokee]
One of the most attractive of Natchez’ ante-bellum houses is the
recently reclaimed Cherokee, built in 1794 by Jesse Greenfield on land
acquired under Spanish grant.
In 1810 David Michie purchased the property and added the classic front.
The present owner, Mr. Charles Byrnes, has reclaimed the old Irish Manor
House and its grounds, using wherever possible the style and materials
of the original.
Cherokee stands on a great elevation overlooking Natchez. It is across
the street from Choctaw and within calling distance of Connelly’s Tavern
on Ellicott Hill.
_Dunleith_
This house, built in 1849 by Gen. Dahlgreen, is situated in perfectly
kept terraced grounds, surrounded by symmetrically planted oak trees
which have grown to giant size. A long driveway from the tall iron gate
at the street entrance to the porch steps bring one to “Dunleith”, a
veritable Greek temple.
Dunleith is almost one hundred years old. The land on which it stands is
part of a Spanish grant of 700 acres, and was the site of the original
home which was destroyed by fire (caused by lightning) in 1845. In the
rear of the present Dunleith are the stables which belonged to the
original house.
At the death of Leslie Carpenter a few years ago this property was
inherited by his widow and her son, J. N. Carpenter. No more perfect
example of a Colonial mansion of the Old South can be found. The house
and grounds are under the constant care of scientific gardeners and
caretakers.
The story of Dunleith is incomplete until its legend has been told:
“At the court of Louis Philippe, last King of France, a lady in
waiting was Miss Isabel Percy, who visited Dunleith to try to forget a
terrible heart hurt. She played the harp, and sang in a beautiful
voice. At evening, just at dusk, her sweet mournful songs can still be
heard in the parlors of Dunleith. When twilight turns to darkness, the
swish of her silken skirts can be heard as she ascends the broad
stairway to her private rooms above.”
I know not how true this tale may be,
I tell it as ’twas told to me.
[Illustration: Dunleith]
_Edgewood_
[Illustration: Edgewood]
Edgewood, erected in 1855, shared with “Mount Repose” the distinction of
being a part of the original Bisland estate. It is a simple plantation
home, located on the Pine Ridge road, and is today occupied by direct
descendants of the original owner, who maintain the estate as nearly as
possible in accord with the original plans.
Situated on rolling greensward with a declivity at the rear, the house
is two stories in front and three in the back. Straight, square lines
are observed in its architecture. A porch extends across the entire
front supported by double white columns. The outlook is into a group of
restful, moss-covered oaks in the midst of which is a natural pond.
Edgewood is the home of Mr. and Mrs. S. H. Lamden, who with their young
sons, S. H. III and Waldo, occupy this home of their forefathers. It is
kept, from day to day, in the same style of ante-bellum home as in days
gone by.
Many descendants of the original slaves of the Lamdens live today in the
“quarters” on the place.
[Illustration: (unlabelled)]
From “Beaupres” and other old plantations have come many possessions of
rarest antiquity to Edgewood. There are portraits by the famous artist
James Reed Lamden; among these is an exquisite portrait of his mother,
who was Prudence Harrison; another is of Dr. John Flavel Carmichael, a
member of the original staff of George Washington, painted by Gilbert
Stuart.
Furnishings at Edgewood are of soft tones in rosewood and mahogany.
Drawing rooms, dining room, and bed rooms are filled with valuable
antiques—all in daily use by the present family. Edgewood retains today
all the charm and beauty that it had nearly a hundred years ago.
_Elgin_
[Illustration: Elgin]
The history of “Elgin” dates from about 1838 when it was owned by the
Dunbar family, and was named Elgin for the Dunbar estate in Scotland.
It is about eight miles from Natchez, and for many years was the home of
the Jenkins family, whose descendants are prominent citizens of Natchez.
Mr. Jenkins was a member of the Academy of Natural Science, and gave
much time and scientific attention to the grounds of Elgin.
The old-fashioned frame building with spacious halls and wide galleries
stands on a knoll in a broad clearing surrounded by a forest of oaks and
pecans.
In 1914 Capt. Jenkins sold Elgin to the late Thornton Green of Michigan.
Prior to that transfer “Elgin” while changing owners, each time was
bought by descendants of its original owner.
Elgin was far-famed for its gardens and orchards, traces of which remain
today and are being reclaimed by the latest purchasers of the property,
Mr. and Mrs. W. S. R. Beane of New York and Natchez. The Beanes will
make “Elgin” their permanent home.
_Elms_
Amid great elm trees and sturdy liveoaks is a wide, rambling house, its
galleries bannistered with graceful iron grill encircling three sides of
the structure. This is “Elms”, it is the home of Mr. and Mrs. Joseph
Kellogg. It is a close neighbor of the “Greenleaves” estate.
Elms was for a long time known as “the old Drake home”. Its intricate
rambling porticos, unusual stairway, and beautiful gardens came to the
Kelloggs by fortunate inheritance. Mrs. Kellogg is a direct descendant
of the Drake family. Benjamin Drake was president of Elizabeth College,
which has the distinction of being the first college in the United
States to permit the teaching of branches of higher education to women.
With the home and its acres of lovely gardens Mrs. Kellogg inherited a
house filled with rare antique rosewood furniture.
The main building of Elms, a two-and-a-half-story structure, was built
in the late 1700’s. The exact date is not disclosed by available old
records. As the property passed from descendant to descendant rooms have
been added.
A striking feature of the house is a lacy wrought-iron stairway unlike
any other in all America and believed to have been imported from
Portugal. The stairway is built in a corridor, and is in harmony with
the generous display of dainty, hand-turned work around the outer
galleries.
Ceilings are low and give Spanish atmosphere to the architecture.
A series of old call bells, each with a different tone to indicate the
location, are still in use in the various rooms.
The famous gardens in the rear have been reclaimed by the present
mistress of Elms. Winding walks lead along flower beds of old-fashioned
petunias, brilliant verbenas, phlox, roses and azaleas, edged with prim
cut boxwood, while giant yuccas stand stiff as formal guards with white
plumed headdress.
A great part of the original Elms estate has been sold, and today one of
Natchez’ modern school buildings stands across the street, giving the
children of this school a daily picture lesson of home and life of the
proud Old South.
[Illustration: Elms]
_Ellicott Hill_
[Illustration: Ellicott Hill]
Artists and architects from far and near come to see the quaint old
house, known as “Connelly’s Tavern”, on Ellicott Hill. It is a sturdy,
perfectly proportioned old house, built of brick and wood, its timbers
said to have come from abandoned sailing vessels.
The style of architecture is early Spanish. It stands on a high
elevation, overlooking with aristocratic disdain the industrial
enterprises which have come in during the years to supplant the once
exclusive neighborhood of its original outlook. In early days, about the
end of the Civil War, the place was known as “Gilreath’s Hill”.
The tavern was built in 1795. It has been occupied by many distinguished
families.
The records show that at one time it was the home of “The Natchez High
School”. It was so used just after the War between the States, when it
was purchased by Wilson R. Gilreath.
Within the last few years the old building has commanded the greatest
degree of public interest. Its historic value is unmatched. In addition
to serving as the abode of many celebrated men, it attained fame as
Connelly’s Tavern when Aaron Burr and Blennerhasset met therein for
secret conferences.
The most outstanding historic fact of the old Hill, itself, is that it
is the spot whereon Col. Andrew Ellicott raised the first United States
flag in February 1797 over the District of Natchez. Since that episode
the spot has been known as “Ellicott Hill”.
Dilapidation followed the wake of time. However, so sturdy were its
timbers and so solid its foundation, it was possible to restore the old
building on the hill.
The work of restoration has been accomplished by the Natchez Garden
Club. Every old line has been carefully retained. Concrete floors of the
kitchen and Tap Room, plastered walls, cypress grill work, solid doors,
and roof are exact replicas of the originals. The old retaining walls
and moats of brick have been replaced as originally at great cost. Today
Ellicott Hill is shining in the full resplendency of its original glory.
It is the present home of the Natchez Garden Club.
[Illustration: FIREPLACE IN OLD TAVERN ROOM AT CONNELLY’S TAVERN]
_Elmscourt_
[Illustration: Elmscourt]
A short drive from Natchez, over a modern highway which was originally
an Indian trail, through iron gates into a virgin forest, brings one a
first glimpse of Elmscourt.
This mansion was erected about the year 1810 by Louis Evans, who was the
first Sheriff of Adams county. He occupied it until 1851, at which time
Frank Surget bought it for his daughter Jane as a gift when she married
Ayers P. Merrill. It is said that Frank Surget was one of the three
multi-millionaires in the United States at that time.
Jane and her husband opened wide the doors of their palatial home.
General U. S. Grant was a frequent guest of Elmscourt, and by reason of
this friendly contact, Ayres Merrill was appointed Minister to Belgium
when Grant became President.
Elmscourt was originally Colonial in architecture but to please his wife
Mr. Merrill changed it into an Italian Renaissance villa. The exquisite
lacy iron work around its long galleries was imported from Belgium.
The dainty antique furnishings in parlors, library, and dining room are
in perfect harmony with this period of architecture. Many original
pieces are retained. At the death of Ayres P. Merrill “Elmscourt”
descended to his son, Ayres P. Merrill Jr., and was sold by him to James
Surget, who gave it to his daughter, Carlotta, on the occasion of her
marriage to David McKittrick. Thus Elmscourt was again the property of a
Surget.
The McKittrick family have lived in Elmscourt many years. They have
added to the valuable collection of antique furnishings, Mrs. McKittrick
bringing in superb pieces from Surget heirlooms.
An outstanding piece of Elmscourt’s furnishing is a serving table, made
for the Duke of Devonshire and bearing his coat-of-arms. It was a gift
to Mrs. McKittrick.
In the dining room still swings the old hand-carved punka of colonial
days. At every meal, a servant stands at the end of the long dining room
and by rope-and-arm-power keeps the great fan (punka) gently stirring,
or creating, refreshing breezes for the comfort of the diners.
The lighting of Elmscourt is the early designed candle arrangement. Over
doorways, in chandeliers, sconces, and wall brackets hundreds of candles
cast their welcoming, soft glow, and add undying romance to the family
portrait gallery and rich rosewood furniture.
Each Spring season when tourists wend their way to Natchez for its
Spring festivities, the McKittricks of Elmscourt give their famous “Ball
of a Thousand Candles”. Lords and Ladies, the elite of Natchez, in
costume of days of long ago, greet their guests, and Elmscourt becomes
today what it has been in the past, an alluring setting for colorful
gatherings of notables.
[Illustration: The Table is a Present From The Duke of Devonshire.]
[Illustration: THE HALL OF GLENFIELD]
_Glenfield_
[Illustration: Glenfield]
Turn to the right on the first gravel road leading from Canal street and
within a stone’s throw of the paved highway nestles a quaint old brick
cottage surrounded by giant oaks and cedars. It is “Glenfield”, the home
of Mrs. Lee Field and her family.
Glenfield was built in 1812 by Charles B. Green. It is of Gothic design
and is constructed of red brick and hand-hewn timbers. Like many of the
old homes, “Glenfield” demonstrates two distinct types of architecture.
One part is low ceilinged with brick floors, while another part has high
ceilings, broad board floors, and ornate windows with heavy hand-made
blinds.
Glenfield contains many rare pieces of antique furniture. A most
interesting piece is an old spinning wheel, a family heirloom. It is
made of hickory and is brown with age. Charred spots bear silent
evidence to the old wheel’s narrow escape from destruction when Indians
set fire to the covered wagon bearing it while its pioneer owner was
bringing his family and household goods to this section. Everything was
destroyed except a few choice pieces. As one turns the wheel today it
seems to hum a chant of toil, trials and tribulations.
Glenfield was originally “Glencannon”, named for its former owner,
William Cannon. The property is part of an original Spanish grant to
John Gerault under Don Manuel Gayoso de Lemos, who was then governor of
the Natchez Territory.
During the War Between the States “Glenfield” was a scene of battle, and
bullet holes made in that conflict can be seen today in vivid contrast
to the peace which now pervades the restful old home amid vine-covered
bayous and hills.
_Glenwood_
Conditions at Glenwood are not conducive to pride in the hearts of
Natchez people, and yet it is doubtful if any tourist leaves Natchez
without hearing, in some way, about this dilapidated old place. As all
things are good or bad by comparison, it may not be amiss when depicting
the glory of Natchez to glimpse the other side.
A Northern tourist upon seeing Glenwood (known today as “Goat Castle”)
said, “Well, I don’t know whether to cry or swear.”
Glenwood is the home of Richard Dana, a man of aristocratic breeding and
birth, and of his guardian, Miss Martha Dockery, a stalwart, dark-eyed
woman who has been for many years in charge of Mr. Dana and the house.
“Dick” Dana, as he is called, and Miss Dockery are probably in their
late sixties.
Dick is the son of the late Charles B. Dana, an Episcopal clergyman, and
Elvira R. Dana. The Rev. Dr. Dana was from Massachusetts.
Richard was given a splendid education. He was a pianist of exceptional
ability. As years passed he spent much of his fortune, living a great
part of the time in the East. When he returned to Glenwood, he seemed to
live the life of a hermit, living alone with his piano and his music.
Gradually gray locks reached his shoulders, and long whiskers covered
his face.
County officials decided it would be best to appoint a guardian for him
and Miss Dockery was named. The Dana and Dockery families had been
friends for generations. Miss Dockery, who was alone and growing old,
was glad to accept the charge of her old friend.
A few years ago there was a murder in the neighborhood. There had been
some trouble between the murdered woman and the Dockery-Dana people
because of trespassing goats. The two recluses were accused of the
murder. They were taken into court, held in prison, stood trial, and
finally were declared “not guilty”. Dana proved that at the time of the
murder he was playing the piano and was not near the scene of the crime.