CHAPTER XXIII.

NATAL AGAIN.—COOLIE IMMIGRATION.—BISHOP COLENSO.—LAING’S

NEK.—INGOGO.—MAJUBA.—INTERESTING INTERVIEW WITH GENERALS JOUBERT AND

SMIT.—GRAVE-YARD AT MOUNT PROSPECT.—LADY FLORENCE DIXIE.—FIRST SESSION

IN CAPE HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY.

The first time I took my seat in the Cape house of assembly on April

5th, 1881, I listened to a debate on a motion introduced by the leader

of the Dutch party, which confirmed me in the intention that I had

previously formed of paying Natal a visit at the end of the session.

This debate was the first, I remember, which touched the question of

Dutch feeling _versus_ English, and was in reality the expression of a

sense of gratitude by the Dutch party in the colony to the Gladstone

ministry, for entering into negotiations with their brethren in the

Transvaal after the defeat at Majuba, rather than allowing irritation at

that defeat to prolong the war.

The debate led to the house agreeing to an amendment proposed by one of

the members for Capetown, to the effect: “That this house desires to

express its satisfaction at the cessation of hostilities in the

Transvaal, and its earnest hope that all differences may be

satisfactorily adjusted and a permanent peace established.”

Whilst listening to the various speakers, I became more than ever

anxious to visit the scenes of the war just closed, and study on the

spot the battlefields where in one campaign we had suffered three

complete and disastrous defeats.

Before describing my visit to Natal, I must not forget to state that

during the first session I sat in the Cape house of assembly the time

was chiefly occupied by Basutoland affairs, and in discussing a vote of

censure on the government with respect to the war in that country.

Being the senior member for Kimberley, and as it was not known to which

side its members leaned, my speech on this subject excited considerable

attention. It was generally expected that if the government were in the

majority it would depend upon the votes of these members, and this

conjecture proved correct, the result of the division being thirty-seven

votes for the government and thirty-four against. The Sprigg ministry

found, however, in a few days, that they could not carry on the

government of the country, and resigned on May 9th. No business of any

importance was transacted during this session after the resignation of

the ministry, Mr. J. B. Robinson, my colleague, and I merely looking

after the local interests of Griqualand West.

But to resume. Ten years had flown over since I had left Natal, and many

striking events had occurred during that period. Langalibalele’s

outbreak, his noble and successful defence by Bishop Colenso, Sir

Benjamin Pine’s recall, Sir Garnet Wolseley’s five months’ politic

interval, in which he “drowned the independence of the colony in sherry

and champagne,” the Zulu war, and the dethronement of Cetywayo.

I was anxious as well to see what progress the colony had made in this

interval, and once again have the pleasure of meeting the many old

friends whom I possessed there. Consequently, when my parliamentary

duties were over, I left Capetown in the S.S. _Dunkeld_ on the 18th of

June, and landed in Natal on the 23d. We arrived off the bluff in the

middle of the night, and early dawn found me feasting my eyes once more

on the glorious view of this land-locked bay, which recalled to memory

many a pleasant scene of the past.

Gliding gently over the dreaded bar, and landing at daybreak, I made my

way to the Royal Hotel, and after breakfast sallied forth to see what

changes a decade had wrought. At every step I was agreeably surprised at

the improvements which I saw. Streets, which ten years before were

knee-deep in sand, I now found hardened, the town council having spent

£40,000 merely in re-forming a few miles of the Musgrave Road leading to

the Berea; trams hourly running, where in my time horses could barely

walk. New buildings and fresh stores, a magnificent theatre, and a new

town hall showing the progress of the place. All, however, were not

satisfied. One old colonist I met frankly said, “Don’t be deceived,

Doctor, there is no reality in what you see, all imperial money, another

Zulu war would suit us just now.” I could not help thinking whether the

signs I saw were the evidence of real progress or mere ephemeral

prosperity, and I asked myself the question, “Has sugar, has coffee, has

the Overberg trade done all this?” I knew that two recent and eminent

visitors had taken a harsh view of Natal and Natalians, having formed

but hurried opinions of the situation.

Froude and Archibald Forbes no doubt thought themselves competent to

judge, but the one was just as far wrong, and acted as unfairly to the

body of Natal colonists, when he said: “Many of these are no better than

the mean whites in the Southern States of the Union,” as the other when

he wrote that the leading attributes of Natal colonists are

“untruthfulness, insobriety and swagger.” With due deference to Mr.

Froude, I distinctly say from years of observation, there is no section

in Natal low enough to be compared with the mean white of the Southern

States, whom even the darkies themselves despise.

The mistake which both Froude and Forbes made was one which a well-known

writer has described as the great error of the nineteenth century, viz,

hasty generalization.

Resting a night I took train to Verulam, Victoria County, my old seat of

practice. This line of rail was all new to me, having been laid since I

left, though it ran through sugar and coffee plantations which I knew

well. On arriving at Verulam I procured a horse and rode off to visit

the various estates in the neighborhood: Redcliffe, the Grange, Ottawa,

Hammonds, Waterloo, Trenance, Southburn, Sunderland, and others whose

names have escaped my recollection, and their hospitable owners I saw

again. Many of the estates, however, I found had been taken up by

Mauritians, and the vacuum pan sugar boilers, as well as the field

overseers, had mostly come from that island, in fact old residents told

me that in the trains running to and from D’Urban there was now almost

continually a complete babel of French, English, Hindustani and Kafir. I

must say that I was disappointed with the general appearance of the

coast. Coffee enterprise seemed dying out fast, no planting going on,

the trees suffering from an insect, the “borer,” and from the leaf

disease (_Hemiteia Vastratrix_), which has played such havoc in Ceylon.

The extent of land under sugar had increased, but drought, low prices,

and the competition of beet-root were making the planters look serious.

Another phase of affairs which struck me as assuming unmanageable

proportions was the keen competition of the cheap-living Asiatic, who in

the cultivation of small holdings could almost beat the European out of

the field. When I saw these men, these crofters, themselves working

their patches of ground, I was at once let into the secret of their

success.

White men in Natal, as a rule, think manual labor in the fields

derogatory. The only exception to this of which I ever knew was a

settlement of Germans near D’Urban. From the feeling generally abroad I

can easily understand the unpalatableness of Froude’s remarks when he

wrote: “Here and there a farmer makes a fortune, but generally the

whites will not work because they expect the blacks to work for them.

The blacks will not work because they prefer to be idle, and so no one

works at all.” After all there is a considerable stratum of truth

running through this statement.

To return to the coolie question, Indians seem very loath to leave

Natal. I find in the last Natal Blue Book that out of 33,343, comprising

men of all castes landed from India since immigration began in 1860,

only 2,141 have returned, the total number of Indians in the colony in

1884 being 27,276, of whom 17,241 were males and 10,035 females.

Gen. Sir J. J. Bissett, in an address to the electors of Alfred and

Alexandra counties in June, 1884, recognizing the importance of this

point, said: “With regard to coolies, I consider that they are

introduced for a specific purpose, they should at the expiration of

their term of indenture be required to return to India, subject to a

maximum extension of term (say) to fifteen years in all. I consider that

any benefit derived from them by a section of the community is very

greatly counterbalanced by the injury their presence causes the colony,

both directly and indirectly. I am also opposed to coolies holding land

in this colony.”

In my opinion Sir J. J. Bissett’s views display a lamentable ignorance

of the first principles of political economy, and are suitable to a

timid mercantile community only, afraid of the further cheapening of

articles of consumption. A great proportion of the Indians, both in the

West Indies and in Natal, as soon as they have served their time and are

free from their indentures, become in every sense thorough colonists;

they buy property, invest their savings, “marry and are given in

marriage,” and show no desire, as statistics prove, to return to

India—differing entirely from the Chinese, whose sole object is to

return home as soon as possible with every sixpence they can drain out

of the country in which they have been living. To my mind the turning

away of thrifty bread winners from a country sparsely populated by an

infinitesimal working class of whites is the height of absurdity. There

is not even the excuse on the ground of morality which the Americans

have against the Chinese in California. Moreover, how would Sir J. J.

Bissett treat the question of the increase in their population? Would

the children born in Natal be allowed to remain there or not? Would he

have the Indians under British rule treated in the same manner as the

Dutch have since treated them in the Transvaal State, where, certainly

without the “liberty, equality and fraternity” popularly supposed to

pertain to republican ideas, they passed a law through the Volksraad,

which was promulgated on June 10th, 1885, disqualifying “Coolies, Arabs,

Malays and other Asiatics” from obtaining the right of citizenship, or

from possessing landed property, and compelling them further, under

penalty, not only to register themselves, and pay £25 for so doing, but

also giving the government power to place them in locations;[66] or

would he have them treated as they are in the other Dutch republic (the

Free State), where it is contrary to law to let fixed property to Arabs,

and where they cannot even procure a license to trade.

No! Thank God such outrages cannot be committed under the British flag!

In Natal less false pride, greater economy and industry are all the

requisites necessary to produce a competition vigorous enough to stem

the tide of Asiatic intrusion. There is one fact, however, which Natal

colonists have seriously to face which is that to every white man there

are at least thirteen Kafirs and one Indian.

The great point to my mind is for the European element to retain the

voting power within fixed limits.

After my visit to Victoria County I returned to D’Urban and took train

to the capital, Pietermaritzburg. The railway again was all new to me.

No pleasant rest at host Padley’s now, no exciting drive round the

Inchanga, no gallop over Camperdown Flats! Simply a six hours’

monotonous railway trip.

The first sight I caught and the first hand I grasped on my arrival was

that of good Bishop Colenso, who met me at the station. Ten years had

passed since last we met, but how delighted was I to see the same

penetrating eye, the same majestic figure, the same elastic step, and to

hear the same cheery voice as in years gone by. I had a long talk with

him and his talented and philanthropic daughter over the events which

had occurred during the years that I had been absent from Natal. Church

matters and matters of state kept us engaged until evening approached,

when the bishop started for Bishopstowe, leaving me to spend the night

with my friends in Pietermaritzburg. Bishop Colenso was indeed one of

those few men “who never swam with the stream, who bravely strove to

stem the current, and regardless alike of popular and aristocratic favor

pleaded with his latest breath for what he thought to be right and

just.”

Little did I think when he shook me by the hand on getting into his

carriage that I should never see him again. It is a benign provision for

us mortals that the future is wrapped in obscurity!

I left Pietermaritzburg the next day, June 30th, at 11 A. M., passed

Howick and the magnificent falls of the Umgeni, and reached the Plough

hotel, Estcourt, where I had a short rest. Leaving there at 2:30 in the

morning I arrived at Ladysmith at noon, where we changed horses. The

feeling against the “ignoble peace,” as it was called, I found

increasing the nearer I approached the seat of the late war. In the

hotel where the mail cart changed horses the landlord had just posted up

the following notice:

Sacred to the memory of

HONOR,

The beloved wife of John Bull,

She died in the Transvaal and

Was buried at Candahar, March 1881.

Her end was peace.

and it was curious to see the soldiers and civilians crowding round the

placard and to listen to their very candid if not complimentary remarks

on the Gladstonian ministry.

Right opposite the hotel where we stopped was to be seen the large

loop-holed laager, I should say, roughly speaking, about 300 yards

square, which had been built by the villagers during the late scare. As

we drove out of the village to Newcastle I saw how “in this weak, piping

time of peace” the pomps of war could be utilized, for our parting

recollection of Ladysmith was the sight of a large crowd of the youth

and fashion of the neighborhood parading round a military band belonging

to the troops stationed there, which was discoursing proud martial

strains, a sorry satire on the situation!

In the afternoon, toiling up the Biggarsberg, we came upon a batch of

Zulus, fine, strapping, jovial fellows, forming a large road party. At

the moment what should appear in sight but two ambulance wagons full of

our wounded men, just sufficiently recovered to be removed to one of the

bare hospitals.

[Illustration:

GRAVE-YARD AT MOUNT PROSPECT.—TOMBSTONES OF SIR POMEROY COLLEY AND

COL. DEANE.

]

This sight was enough of itself to make all the Zulus stop work and

“wau” with curiosity. Seeing some wounded men accompanying the

ambulances one Zulu bursting with fun and grinning from ear to ear,

shouted out, “Sakubona,” (“I see you,” a form of greeting) “Johnny! upi

lo Dutchman?” (“Where is the Dutchman?”) of course a regular peal of

laughter at once followed this sally of native wit. I can assure my

readers, that as an Englishman I sincerely felt for our wounded soldiers

thus tauntingly jeered at, and I was able to estimate the tremendous

shock that our prestige had received among the aborigines. The Zulus

recognized the situation at once, the only thing our poor fellows could

do was to grind their teeth and curse their fate as they wearily trudged

along, victims of vanity[67] and misjudgment, the defeated of Laing’s

Nek, Ingogo and Majuba!

There is no doubt that the retrocession of the Transvaal was a violation

of a series of guarantees which had been previously given. Not only Mr.

Gladstone and Lord Kimberley, but also Sir Garnet Wolseley, Sir Bartle

Frere, Sir Theo. Shepstone and Sir Owen Lanyon had over and over again

declared that the Transvaal would remain English territory, and that

under _no_ circumstances could the annexation be reversed. These

emphatic utterances were made long before the outbreak of hostilities,

and consequently the withdrawal of English rule after the Dutch had

gained four signal victories within nine weeks, could be interpreted

only by both Dutch and natives as an act, not of principle and equity,

but of weakness and defeat. My friend, Mr. C. K. White, one of the

nominees appointed by Sir Garnet Wolseley to the legislative council,

which he gave as a sop to the Transvaal Boers, in a letter at the time

appealed to Mr. Gladstone in the following touching words: “If, sir, you

had seen, as I have seen, promising young citizens of Pretoria dying of

wounds received for their country, and if you had had the painful duty,

as I have had, of bringing to their friends at home the last mementoes

of the departed; if you had seen the privations and discomforts which

delicate women and children bore without murmuring for upward of three

months; if you had seen strong men crying like children at the cruel and

undeserved desertion of England; if you had seen the long strings of

half desperate loyalists, shaking the dust off their feet as they left

the country, which I saw on my way to Newcastle; and if you yourself had

invested your all on the strength of the word of England, and now saw

yourself in a fair way of being beggared by the acts of the country in

which you trusted, you would, sir, I think, be ‘pronounced,’ and England

would ring with eloquent entreaties and threats which would compel a

hearing.”

Mr. Gladstone, however, changed his previously declared convictions. On

January 21st, 1880, he stated in the House of Commons: “I must look to

the obligations entailed by the annexation, and if in my opinion, and in

the opinion of many on this side of the house, wrong was done by the

annexation itself, that would not warrant us in doing fresh, distinct

and separate wrong by a disregard of the obligations which that

annexation entailed;” or again on June 8th, 1880, when in answer to

Messrs Kruger and Joubert who had written to him, asking him to rescind

the annexation of the Transvaal, he said “our judgment is that the Queen

cannot be advised to relinquish her sovereignty over the Transvaal.” Yet

little more than a year saw this “pronounced” opinion totally changed,

and all confidence in Mr. Gladstone and his ministry almost annihilated

throughout the length and breadth of South Africa.

Proceeding on my journey I crossed the Ingagane, passed the forts in

course of erection by our soldiers close to the river, the heliograph

twinkling in the sun, and after a long, tiring journey arrived at

Newcastle in the afternoon.

Newcastle lies on a large grassy plain and in the centre of a district

containing no less than 1,350 square miles of workable coal[68] close to

the surface; and in the near future destined to keep up the credit of

its name when the mines have been properly opened up, it will be noted

for this production, and then no doubt a railway to the coast being by

that time _un fait accompli_ will supply the traffic of the eastern

seas.[69] Newcastle was in the zenith of its commercial prosperity

during the late war, and even when I visited it its glory had not quite

departed.

Wishing to proceed and see Majuba without loss of time, I found this

would be an impossibility, at least for some days, had not Mr.

Greenlees, an old resident, kindly given me his assistance and offered

to drive me there himself the next day.

As a pleasurable interlude, especially in a place like Newcastle, a

grand concert was advertised, which took place on the evening of my

arrival, and the band of the 97th put forward as a special inducement. I

went and saw a sight that I shall not soon forget. The “gods” were very

uproarious and demonstrative, and not at all reticent in expressing

their opinion. One singer, well known as a notorious bouncer about the

power of England and the valor of her troops, on coming on was most

cynically received. To me it was a mystery, but this was explained when

he commenced to sing:

“In days of old, when knights were bold,

And barons held their sway;

A warrior bold, with spurs of gold,

Sang merrily his lay,”

for a terrific burst of pent-up anger seemed to thrill the “gods.”

“Loop,” “Verdomde Englishman,” “Go and fight the Boers,” “Why did you

run?” were the cries all round the hall, until the poor fellow slid away

amidst the jeers and laughter of the audience.

Starting early in the morning, we were lucky enough to have as a

companion a young colonial volunteer named Maclean, a relative of a

former governor of Natal, who was one of the brave men who, after the

day’s slaughter, stayed all night with the wounded on the battle field

of Ingogo. Crossing the Incandu, our road lay past Fort Amiel, built

during the Zulu war, and a twelve miles’ journey, ending in a

precipitous rise, landed us on the plateau where the battle of Schuin’s

Hooghte was fought. Then crossing the drift of the Ingogo, we

breakfasted at Virmstone’s roadside inn on the bank of the river.

Just as we were once more inspanning to continue our journey, up rode

Lady Florence Dixie and Sir Beaumont on their way to Newcastle. I was

naturally pleased to have the opportunity of seeing a lady whose

chivalrous defence of Cetywayo afterward had so much to do with his

restoration, and with whose opinions on the late Zulu war and the

treatment of the dethroned king I was so much in harmony. I may here

mention that a few months later I had the pleasure of making Lady

Florence Dixie’s personal acquaintance, when she and Sir Beaumont were

passing through Kimberley.

But we had sixteen miles further to travel to Majuba, so on we went,

leaving Mount Prospect and its cemetery on our right. We reached the

foot of the mountain about 2 P. M. The views of Majuba from the road as

we approached were simply grand, and it was hard to picture war and its

horrors invading such a lovely spot!

I was again fortunate; at the regimental canteen at the bottom I met a

corporal, who had been in all the three engagements, and persuaded him

to guide us to the top, which he did, whiling away the tediousness of

our mountain climb by relating his experience of the dreadful Sunday

(never to be blotted out of South African history), and by recounting

events of which he stated that he was an eye-witness, and which, whether

his account was strictly correct or not, I prefer to leave unrecorded.

Greenlees, Maclean, myself and our guide all went up the same path,

being the _via dolorosa_ the English soldiers under Colley took on the

ill-fated night of Feb. 26th, 1881, and not toiling, laden with

ammunition and accoutrements, as they did, from 9:30 P. M. to near

daybreak, but making the four miles’ circuitous ascent in three

hours.[70] The top is just like a large soup plate, sinking down all

round from the sides and flat at the bottom (about 420 yards long by 300

wide), so that no troops resting in the centre could see an enemy

advancing up the sides of the mountain. Our guide told us the first

intimation he got of the attack of the Dutch was from the consternation

which seized every one, when the Boers, who had gained the summit from

the Transvaal side, suddenly poured into them their first deadly general

volley, although like other eye-witnesses he said there had been

considerable desultory firing since daybreak.

This volley at once created such a panic that a regular stampede

commenced, which the officers tried in vain to stop. It was _sauve qui

peut_.

I had pointed out to me the perpendicular rocks, some as much as forty

feet in height, where many of our men killed themselves jumping headlong

down them in their mad retreat, bleeding, tumbling, dying one on the

other.

There can be no excuse for the disaster of the day. The Boers themselves

were astonished at their own success. Some apologists, I remember at the

time, said our men were fatigued with the ascent, but yet they got to

the top at 3 A. M., long before daybreak, and it was past mid-day when

the Dutch fired the fatal volley which decided the issue of the day.

Surely this gave hours enough for our soldiers to rest. Then who, I may

ask, was responsible for the equipment of the expedition? Where were the

Gatling guns and the rockets, which could have rained death and

destruction on the Boer camp below? Why was no diversion made by us from

our own camp at Mount Prospect? Who superintended the digging of the

intrenchments(?) on Majuba? These and other questions will never now be

answered. Again, about sixty Boers only gained the summit at first,

therefore it could not be said our forces (554 rifles) were

outnumbered.[71]

The very graves themselves bear silent witness to our blind retreat, for

out of ninety-two killed that day only fifty-nine are buried on the top

of the Majuba. The others, shot like game by the Boers in the wild run

for life down the mountain sides, and who killed themselves in their

panic-stricken flight, were buried below at the cemetery of Mount

Prospect.

We remained at the top, enjoying a splendid bird’s-eye view of the

Transvaal, the site of the Boer laager during the war, the battlefield

of Laing’s Nek,[72] our own camp, etc., until the moon rose, when

starting on our downward journey we reached the bottom at nine o’clock,

and in half an hour were partaking of the hospitalities of Mrs.

Greville’s hotel, where we discussed the merits of that eventful day,

and the question of Dutch strategy _versus_ English mismanagement far

into the night.

Next day, before sunrise, I started for Mount Prospect, leaving my

companions sleeping, overcome with the previous day’s exertions. A walk

of three miles brought me to the cemetery, thirty yards long by

twenty-six broad, which was surrounded by a double inclosure, the first

built of sod, the second of stone.

The sunrise was magnificent, the air keenly crisp and clear, and the

scenery, with Majuba filling up the background, I have never seen

surpassed, but a more melancholy sight or one recalling sadder events to

memory could not be seen the wide world over. Here in this little

graveyard, all dead in vain, I saw quietly resting all that “outrageous”

fortune had left of disappointed ambition, ruined hopes, and dreams of a

glorious future! Far in the corner were the plain marble crosses erected

to Sir Pomeroy Colley and Colonel Deane. Sir Pomeroy’s simply chronicled

his death and burial, with the beautiful lines from “In Memoriam:”

“O for thy voice to soothe and bless—

What hope of answer or redress?

Behind the veil, behind the veil.”

while Colonel Deane’s spoke the truth of a valiant soldier “who fell in

action at Laing’s Nek, at the head of a storming party, ten yards in

front of the foremost man.” Alongside these were two little wooden

crosses, pointing out the graves of Doctors Landon and Cornish. On

Surgeon Major Cornish’s grave there was a beautiful wreath, with the

touching words:

“Now the laborer’s task is o’er,

Now the battle’s day is passed;

Lands the voyager at last,

Safe upon that further shore.”

In fact the whole cemetery was like a garden of flowers, the graves

covered with beautiful wreaths of immortelles, tributes from all parts.

I may here mention that I had the pleasure in August, 1886, just five

years after making this visit and five years after the peace was signed,

of being introduced at Barberton-the principal town on the Kaap gold

fields, and elsewhere described—to Commandant General Piet Joubert and

General Smit, who were the Boer commanders at Majuba. I had long been

anxious to hear a _viva voce_ statement of the Boer side of the question

from some of the chief actors, and I eagerly seized the opportunity of

“interviewing” the generals. On waiting on them according to appointment

I was very courteously received. General Joubert I found to be a man who

had seen some sixty summers, of middle height, with a tendency to

corpulency, a greyish beard, sharp, dark eyes and a pleasing expression

of countenance, though it was easy to see from his firm set mouth that

he was a man possessed of great determination of character. There was no

mistaking his nationality as his features were in the main those of the

typical Boer. General Smit was taller, his features more regularly cut

and of sterner cast, and with hair almost grey he looked just the

determined man to lead a forlorn hope. General Joubert at once began the

conversation by telling me that for some time he had considered it

dangerous to allow the English forces the chance of obtaining the key to

the position, which the occupation of Majuba certainly afforded, and

acting on this idea he had determined to occupy the mountain, “but” he

said, “before taking this step I was determined with the other

commandants to make a thorough examination of the locality.” “All came

to the opinion” continued General Joubert, “that the occupation of the

mountain by the English was impossible, but I thought otherwise, and

after this sent up a picket of fifty men each night. This was commenced

on the Thursday night (Feb. 24th) preceding the eventful Sunday on which

Majuba was fought, but by a remarkable act of Providence, the picket

which was told off for duty on Saturday night, being composed of

burghers newly arrived from Pretoria, lost the path up the mountain and

spent the night encamped midway.”

“But,” I asked the general, “hadn’t Colley asked you to disarm?” “I will

tell you,” he replied; “on Friday morning I received a message from

General Colley calling on me to disarm, and saying he would send a

dispatch to the imperial government representing the Boer grievances. I

answered to the effect I could not do this without first getting

permission of the chairman of the Triumvirate at Heidleberg, a process

which would take four days. Now, I thought, all was right till Monday,

and as a proof of my confidence, I even reduced my patrols. What made me

also more certain was that on the next day I got a letter from President

Brand telling me that there was every chance of negotiations for peace

coming to a successful conclusion. I sat up late that night making

copies of Brand’s letter to send to the Triumvirate at Heidleberg and to

General Colley. On going to bed, I can assure you, I couldn’t sleep, my

rest was uneasy and I tossed about till nearly four o’clock in the

morning, when I called my boy to make a fire. Just as the day was

dawning my wife, who had been with me only a few days, got up to make

coffee. Going out of the tent she said, ‘see what lots of men are on the

mountain!’ Suspecting nothing I merely said: ‘It is only our own

people.’ She was not satisfied, however, but got my binocular, and

looked again, when she called out excitedly: ‘Leave your writing! put

down your pen! come here! the _English_ are on the mountain!’ I ran out

at once, there was no need for me to take the glass as I could plainly

distinguish the English troops by their walk. I jumped on my horse,

which like all other horses in the camp, according to general orders,

was saddled at four in the morning, and rode at once to Franz

Joubert[73] who had just come into laager the day before. ‘Now,’ I said,

‘didn’t I tell you the English would get up the mountain? Look, there

they are.’ He wouldn’t believe me but insisted they were our own people.

At this juncture I saw the men returning who should have formed the

picket on Majuba the night before, and heard and saw two shots fired on

them from the hill. I almost lost my temper. ‘Would our own people fire

on us?’ I asked. ‘No! they are English, I say.’ When Franz Joubert

calmly answered, ‘If that is so we shall _have_ to get them down.’

Hurriedly telling him to go on up the mountain, while I would go back

and send some more men, I galloped off to our laager. On my way I met my

son with a message from General Smit advising me to come to Laing’s Nek

at once as that might be attacked. So I left instructions for Veld

Cornets Roos and Minnaar to attack Majuba on one side with about forty

men, and the commandant of Utrecht with something like the same number

would go up the other.”

“But tell me, general,” I said, “were the English fully aware that the

Boers were really coming up the mountain to attack them?”

“Yes! of course they were, they knew it for eight hours, as it was five

o’clock in the morning when they fired the first two shots, and it was

one o’clock when we got to the top.”

“Then it was not, as it is alleged, a sudden attack in force which

gained the day?”

The general smiled at my question. “How could it be when heavy firing

was going on all the morning up to the very last moment.”

“When the top was gained by the Boers, what took place next?”

“There was no resistance, all was over in a minute or two.”

“But tell me, general, how do you account for the fact that 500 English

should run before 60 Boers who had just had an eight-hours’ climb up the

mountain?”

“I don’t wish to give any opinion,” said the general, looking serious

indeed, “but I am certain the hand of God was with us all through.” Then

waxing quite eloquent, he continued: “Men of mine, whom I knew were such

cowards, that in Kafir wars even I have set them to cook the pots,

advanced with determined step, impressed with the work before them,

actuated, I am sure, by an Almighty power.”

Then, continuing the narrative, he told me how General Smit sent him

word about three o’clock that Colley was killed and how he forwarded

instructions that the body should be carefully guarded during the night

with “all honor and respect,” and that the wounded should be laid

together and covered up, the prisoners of war in the meantime being sent

under escort to the Boer camp and transported the next day by wagon to

Heidleberg.

Considering the state of utter demoralization in which our troops had

apparently fallen at the time, the Boers having been victorious in every

engagement of the campaign, all Englishmen may be glad that a sudden

mist stopped the attack upon our camp at Mount Prospect, which General

Smit told me the Boers had decided to make, or a yet more disastrous

defeat would, I feel certain, have been chronicled. I was strongly

impressed with the belief that General Joubert recognized a divine

Providence in everything, as over and over again he said, “the hand of

God was in it all.” I was also informed that when this sudden mist

arose, hiding our camp completely from view, that he quietly said: “Look

at the mist, the Lord won’t allow us to go;” seemingly, like Cromwell,

he was a firm believer in the universality of divine interposition and

so accepted the sudden mist as a command of the Deity! “Thus far shalt

thou go and no further.”

General Joubert’s description of his interview with Gen. Sir Evelyn

Wood, five days after Majuba, was very graphic. I asked the general to

allow me to take notes, to which he consented—when lighting his pipe he

began: “You must know, doctor, that five days after the fight General

Wood sent to ask me if I would meet him half-way between the two camps.

This I agreed to do, and we sent wagons and tents from both sides. There

were myself, General Smit and Mr. Dirkhouse, as clerk on our side, and

General Wood, General Buller and Major Fraser on the English. When I

arrived, after wishing each other ‘good morning,’ General Wood asked me:

‘Have you authority to make peace?’ I answered, ‘Yes, on one condition;’

he said, ‘what is that?’ I replied, ‘the annexation of our country to be

withdrawn.’ ‘Then,’ I added, ‘her Majesty’s troops can leave with honor,

I want no more.’ ‘But if I sign such a peace, will all agree?’ inquired

the general. ‘Yes,’ said I, ‘all _must_ in accordance with _our_ law.’

After some moments’ deliberation General Wood asked me whether or not I

would make peace according to the terms offered in a letter sent by Mr.

Kruger to General Colley through President Brand. I answered distinctly,

‘No.’ At last General Wood begged that the armistice might be extended

to twenty days to give Mr. Kruger time to arrange about terms, when,

after discussing the matter for some time, a further cessation of

hostilities for eight days was agreed upon between us, and we left

Buller and Fraser to draw up a document to that effect.

“As we were standing outside the tent while this document was being

prepared, General Wood told me I should have to get away from the Nek,

because it was English territory, but I said: ‘_We_ don’t fight for

ground, _we_ don’t claim any; why should I go? If you _mean_ to make

peace, the closer we get the better.’ General Wood replied, ‘I shall

have to force the place then and drive you away,’ and pointing to his

breast, and counting his medals one after the other, said: ‘Look, there

are one, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine medals, and if

I pitch you out, another, which will make ten.’ I answered: ‘I must

defend my country at all risks, and stand the consequences,’ He then

looked straight at me and said: ‘Perchance you may kill me, but that is

nothing; England has sixteen generals more.’ I then turned up my coat,

and pointing to _my_ breast, which was perfectly plain, said: ‘General,

there is nothing here, and thank God, I want nothing behind that Nek

there. I have not one single man to be killed for that. (I pointed to a

medal on his breast.) _We_ do not fight for glory, _we_ fight for

liberty, and for liberty every English general, I know, would also yield

his life. We have not many generals, but although I and General Smit

lead our men, each man knows he fights for himself and his country.’

General Wood then continued: ‘But what do you think of Colley going up

the mountain?’ I answered: ‘I don’t know what to think; all I know is

that I received letters from Brand and Colley only the day before, which

tended to throw me off my guard, and while I was in the very act of

writing answers Colley took the opportunity to go up the mountain.’ ‘And

you drove him down?’ ‘I don’t say that, and I am glad no one behind that

Nek says that either, but this I will say, that every man of mine when

he looks at Majuba, when he looks at the top of that mountain there,

thinks of nothing but the wondrous work of the Almighty.’ Wood seemed

touched. ‘I am not an unbeliever; I also say my prayers,’ he ejaculated.

‘I am glad,’ I said, ‘to hear you say that, but do you know what we pray

for? We don’t pray to conquer nations and annex countries; what we pray

for is that Almighty God may so open the eyes of the gracious Queen of

England that she and her counsellors may see what is justice and what is

right, then we shall feel sure of our case and know that freedom to our

country must come.’

“We then talked a little about Bronker’s Spruit and other incidents of

the war, when, the document being finished, we went into the tent to

sign it.”

Shortly after General Joubert concluded the above somewhat melo-dramatic

description of his meeting with Sir Evelyn Wood, I took my leave, having

spent a most interesting hour in the society of the generals.

Returning, however, to the description of my trip of 1881; when I got to

the hotel I found all prepared for leaving, and after breakfast we

started for Newcastle, intending to rest at Ingogo, as we had not time

to visit Laing’s Nek (and moreover we could see the position from the

road), where Colley’s first defeat took place on Jan. 28th, with a loss

of 260 killed and wounded, and where Colonel Deane and Major Poole

(Cetywayo’s old friend) were shot down. After a pleasant drive we

crossed the Ingogo drift, the road gradually ascending until the plateau

of Schuin’s Hooghte was reached, where Colley suffered his second defeat

on Feb. 7th. Making a _reconnaissance_ that morning with 273 of the 60th

Rifles and 38 men of the mounted squadron from Mount Prospect, Colley

was virtually lured to his destruction. The Boers retired before his

advance, until having decoyed our troops to Schuin’s Hooghte, a high and

perfectly unsheltered plateau, they opened a galling fire from the other

side of the valley which intervened, a perfectly safe position for them.

This was at 10:15 A. M., and until sundown our soldiers were nothing

more or less than English targets for Dutch bullets. The field guns

which Colley brought with him were useless; he had nothing to fire at

but rocks, the Boers finding most excellent cover. The horses were shot

down at the guns, the mules at the ambulance wagons, nothing living was

safe for a moment from the Boers’ unerring aim. Maclean pointed out to

me the exact stone, near the centre of the plateau, where Colley, Essex

and Wilkinson took cover most of the day, and gave me a most vivid

description of the field when, on a second visit next day, he found the

place literally stormed by armies of cowardly vultures, attracted by the

putrid effluvium from the rotting carcasses of the dead horses and

mules. With my penknife I picked out splashes of lead from the crevices

of the stones, as relics of the Boers’ accurate sighting. Wilkinson,

brave young fellow, was drowned the same night in the Ingogo, when

pluckily returning with comforts for the wounded, that river having

become a sweeping torrent owing to the storm of rain which had been

raging for some hours previous.

These poor fellows, left on the plateau in the rain, were totally

deserted except by one or two, Parson Ritchie, Maclean and Dr. McGan,

Colley having made good his retreat in the night with his troops and

guns to Mount Prospect. There these men lay in a heap, the dying and the

dead together, the pitchy darkness of that long, cold, wet, dreary night

now and again relieved by vivid flashes of lurid lightning. _Only_

142[74] of our soldiers were sacrificed on this occasion. I went to look

at one of the two inclosed grave-yards of these ill-fated men. In the

corner of a little inclosure by the roadside I found tokens of the

conflict and relics of our loss. The helmets of the dead soldiers,

riddled with bullets, were promiscuously piled together, while all

around could be seen traces of the desolation war had produced.

Turning to the Boer losses and casualties. The news of the Boers having

taken the Amajuba mountain reached the Red Cross Association on March

6th, at Bethlehem, O. F. S., when its members at once left for Laing’s

Nek, arriving there on March 16th. Dr. A. C. Daumas, in a report which

he wrote to the secretary of the association, dated Aliwal North, July

29th, 1881, said:

“You may easily fancy what our astonishment was on being informed that

although accepted with thanks, our services were by no means so urgent

and necessary as we had at first supposed.

“In fact, the hospital established by Dr. Merinski, close to the camp,

only contained in all one man sick and three wounded.”

Further on, in the same report, Dr. Daumas stated:

“It would be rather difficult to tell accurately the number of Boers

encamped in this pass (Laing’s Nek), but I do not think I am far from

the truth in estimating their number at 1,000 men.

“This small army subsisted there without the help of any commissariat;

each man was obliged to provide himself with his own food, which

consisted generally in a purely animal diet. He did not receive any

pay, and had beside to get his accommodation at his own expense. His

obedience to his commanders was absolute. The most perfect order

prevailed in this camp, where, strange to say, there never was any

drilling done. Far from being intoxicated with their victories, the

Boers always showed themselves extremely modest, attributing all their

successes to the protection of heaven.... But what remains to be

explained is how an army of several thousand men may have been able to

take the field and keep it during several months without commissariat,

and especially without any medical service, and should not have been

more subject to the class of diseases which are in time of war the

ordinary sad attendants of all armies.

“Should not the reason of these facts lie in this, _i.e._, that owing

to his sobriety and to the strength of his constitution the Boer has

been able to resist the physical causes which produce those diseases;

as also through his political faith, coupled with genuine religious

faith, he has been able to bear up against the moral causes.”

There is no gainsaying the fact that all through the war the Boers had

implicit faith in divine assistance.

Leaving Schuin’s Hooghte we hurried to Newcastle, and next day I left

for Ladysmith, intending to catch the mail cart which runs from the

Rising Sun to Bloemfontein, and so through the Free State to Kimberley.

Passing through Harrismith, the border town of the Free State, we came

to Bethlehem, where I saw the handsome Dutch Church, just finished at a

cost of £16,000, and passing Senekal at 5 A. M., nearly frozen in the

pitch darkness, I arrived in Winburg at twelve, at noon. Dr. Dixon, the

leading practitioner there, soon found me out, and dining at his table

with some Kimberley speculators, on coal not diamonds bent, spent a very

pleasant afternoon. The post-cart left at 6:30 P. M.; at eight next

morning we were in Bloemfontein, and everything going favorably along,

July 12th saw me once more on the diamond fields.

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