CORSAGES APPROPRIATE FOR WOMEN WITH UNBEAUTIFULLY MODELLED THROATS AND
SHOULDERS.
Despite the traditional belief that a décolleté corsage is a tyrannous
necessity of evening dress, a woman not graciously endowed with a
beautifully modelled throat and shoulders may, with perfect propriety,
conceal her infelicitous lines from the derisive gaze of a critical
public.
Women are indebted to that gentle genius, La Duse, for the suggestion
that a veiled throat and bust may charmingly fulfil the requirements of
evening dress, and also satisfy that sense of delicacy peculiar to some
women who have not inherited from their great-great-grandmothers the
certain knowledge that a low-necked gown is absolutely decorous.
The women who does not possess delicate personal charms commends herself
to the beauty-loving by forbearing to expose her physical deficiencies.
Unless it is because they are enslaved by custom, it is quite
incomprehensible why some women will glaringly display gaunt
proportions that signally lack the exquisite lines of firm and solid
flesh.
A throat like a ten-stringed instrument, surmounting square shoulders
that end in knobs that obtrude above unfilled hollows, is an unpleasing
vision that looms up conspicuously too often in opera-box and
drawing-room.
[Illustration: NO. 61]
The unattractive exhibition 61, is a familiar sight in the social world.
How insufferably ugly such uncovered anatomy appears in the scenery of a
rich and dainty music-room may be readily imagined by those who have
been spared the unpleasing display. It is so obvious that shoulders
like these should always be covered that it seems superfluous to remark
that this type should never wear any sleeve that falls below the
shoulder-line.
[Illustration: NO. 62]
The sleeve falling off the shoulder was invented for the classic
contour, set forth in No. 62. Nor ribbons, nor lace, nor jewel are
needed to enhance the perfect beauty of a fine, slender, white throat,
and the felicitous curves of sloping shoulders.
One whose individual endowments are as meagre as are those presented in
No. 61 may improve her defects by adopting either style of corsage,
shown in sketches Nos. 63 and 64.
A woman's throat may lack a certain desirable roundness, and her
shoulders may recede in awkward lines, and yet between these defective
features the curves may have a not unpleasing daintiness and delicacy in
modelling that can be advantageously revealed. A modish velvet
throat-band, such as is shown by No. 63, is one of the most graceful
conceits of fashion. The too slim throat encircled by velvet or
ornamented with a jewelled buckle or brooch is effectively framed. The
unsightly lines of the shoulders are covered, and just enough
individual robustness is disclosed to suggest with becoming propriety
the conventional décolleté corsage. The Princess of Wales is as constant
to her velvet or pearl neck-band, as to her especial style of coiffure.
Her throat, in evening dress, never appears unadorned by one or the
other of these beautiful bands that so cleverly conceal defects and
seem to bring out more richly the texture and coloring of handsome bare
shoulders.
[Illustration: NO. 63]
[Illustration: NO. 64]
Those who do not approve of the décolleté style of dress, or whose
ungraceful proportions might well be entirely concealed, can wear with
appropriateness and benefit the corsage shown in No. 64. This has much
in its favor for a slender body. The upper part of the waist may be made
of chiffon or crêpe, which is beautifully--one might say
benignly--translucent. It has an insinuating transparency that neither
reveals nor conceals too much. The neck-band of velvet or satin, full
and soft, apparently enlarges the throat. The sleeves may be in whatever
style in cut prevails. This costume carries perfectly into effect the
requirements of evening dress, and may be worn with equal fitness to
formal functions or to informal affairs. A coat-sleeve of lace, crêpe,
or chiffon, beflounced at the wrist, may be inserted under the short
satin sleeves when the occasion does not require gloves. The soft, white
setting of thin textures around the throat and shoulders clears the
complexion and brings into relief the pretty, delicate lines of a
refined face.
[Illustration: NOS. 65 and 66]
It is plain to be seen that the unattractive specimen of femininity,
No. 65., with the long, wrinkled neck and sharply lined face is
unbecomingly costumed in the V-shaped basque and corsage which
apparently elongate her natural lankness. A charming and always
fashionable yoke-effect that she can wear to advantage is shown by No.
66. This style of corsage is equally effective for a too thin or a too
muscular neck. The filling is of tulle.
A square-cut corsage is most becoming to the woman whose narrow
shoulders have a consumptive droop. The angular cut apparently heightens
the shoulders and decreases their too steeple-like inclination. The
round cut, if it frames a full throat, is also an effective style for
sloping shoulders. The V-shaped cut is most becoming to the short-necked
woman, whose aim should be to increase the length of her throat.
It is not only the too thin neck that needs to be clothed with
discrimination. Throats and shoulders that are too robust are improved
by being covered. The arms and shoulders, however, are often the chief
beauty of a fleshy woman, and it is to her advantage to give them as
effective a setting as possible.
[Illustration: NO. 68]
[Illustration: NO. 67]
As is obvious in No. 67, the stout woman apparently increases her
breadth by wearing a flamboyant corsage, and she hides the most
exquisite lines of her arm with her sleeves.
The princesse style of gown, in No. 68, gives her apparent length of
waist. The modest lace flounce that falls in vertical folds decreases
her formidable corsage. The knotted twist of silk reveals the full
beauty of her arm.
[Illustration: NO. 69]
In dressing the throat there are a few rules to be remembered. A too
long, stem-like neck may be apparently shortened by a standing ruff or a
full, soft band of velvet. The tight, plain band of velvet should never
be worn by a woman with a very slim neck, as is plainly discernible in
sketch No. 69.
[Illustration: NO. 70]
The plain, military collar emphasizes the thinness of the slender
woman's throat; but the soft crushed fold of velvet apparently enlarges
the pipe-like proportions of the thin woman's neck, as may be seen in
sketch No. 70. The tight-fitting collar should not be worn by the
corpulent woman with a thick neck, as is shown by sketch No. 71.
[Illustration: NO. 71]
The thickness of the throat of the woman pictured in No. 72 may seem due
to the folds of the velvet, which give a pleasing hint of a slender
throat, a delusion not to be despised by the woman burdened with flesh.
[Illustration: NO. 72]
All the sisterhood,--stout, thin, long-throated, or short,--should know
the hour when the withering touch of age begins to shrink the soft,
round curves distinctive of the full, sweet throat of healthful youth.
No regretful vanity should be allowed to glamour their eyes to the fact
that Time has them by the throat, to put it melodramatically. The wise
woman will not please herself with a fatal delusion. She will realize it
is illusion she needs-yards of it--lace or velvet, or any beautifying
texture that will conceal the deadly lines of age.