QUILIMANE TO BOMBAY AND ENGLAND.
A.D. 1864.
Livingstone returns the "Pioneer" to the Navy, and is to sail in the
"Nyassa" to Bombay--Terrific circular storm--Imminent peril of the
"Nyassa"--He reaches Mozambique--Letter to his daughter--Proceeds to
Zanzibar--His engineer leaves him--Scanty crew of "Nyassa"--Livingstone
captain and engineer--Peril of the voyage of 2500 miles--Risk of the
monsoons--The "Nyassa" becalmed--Illness of the men--Remarks on African
travel--Flying-fish--Dolphins--Curiosities of his Journal--Idea of a
colony--Furious squall--Two sea-serpents seen--More squalls--The
"Nyassa" enters Bombay harbor--Is unnoticed--First visit from officers
with Custom-house schedules--How filled up--Attention of Sir Bartle
Frere and others--Livingstone goes with the Governor to Dapuri--His
feelings on landing in India--Letter to Sir Thomas Maclear--He visits
mission-schools, etc., at Poonah--Slaving in Persian Gulf--Returns to
Bombay--Leaves two boys with Dr. Wilson--Borrows passage-money and sails
for England--At Aden--At Alexandria--Reaches Charing
Cross--Encouragement derived from his Bombay visit--Two projects
contemplated on his way home.
On reaching the mouth of the Zambesi, Dr. Livingstone was fortunate in
falling in, on the 13th February, with H.M.S. "Orestes," which was
joined on the 14th by the "Ariel." The "Orestes" took the "Pioneer" in
tow, and the "Ariel" the "Lady Nyassa," and brought them to Mozambique.
The day after they set out, a circular storm passed over them, raging
with the utmost fury, and creating the greatest danger. Often as Dr.
Livingstone had been near the gates of death, he was never nearer than
now. He had been offered a passage on board the "Ariel," but while there
was danger he would not leave the "Lady Nyassa." Had the latter not been
an excellent sea-ship she could not have survived the tempest; all the
greater was Dr. Livingstone's grief that she had never reached the lake
for which she was adapted so well.
Writing to his daughter Agnes from Mozambique, he gives a very graphic
account of the storm, after telling her the manner of their leaving
the Zambesi:
"_Mozambique_, 24_th Feb._, 1864.--When our patience had been
well nigh exhausted the river rose and we steamed gladly down
the Shiré on the 19th of last month. An accident detained us
some time, but on the 1st February we were close by
Morumbala, where the Bishop [Tozer] passed a short time
before bolting out of the country. I took two members of the
Mission away in the 'Pioneer,' and thirteen women and
children, whom having liberated we did not like to leave to
become the certain prey of slavers again. The Bishop left
twenty-five boys, too, and these also I took with me, hoping
to get them conveyed to the Cape, where I trust they may
become acquainted with our holy religion. We had thus quite a
swarm on board, all very glad to get away from a land of
slaves. There were many more liberated, but we took only the
helpless and those very anxious to be free and with English
people. Those who could cultivate the soil we encouraged to
do so, and left up the river. Only one boy was unwilling to
go, and he was taken by the Bishop. It is a great pity that
the Bishop withdrew the Mission, for he had a noble chance of
doing great things. The captives would have formed a fine
school, and as they had no parents he could have educated
them as he liked.
"When we reached the sea-coast at Luabo we met a man-of-war,
H.M.S. 'Orestes.' I went to her with 'Pioneer,' and sent
'Lady Nyassa' round by inland canal to Kongone. Next day I
went into Kongone in 'Pioneer'; took our things out of her,
and handed her over to the officers of the 'Orestes.' Then
H.M.S 'Ariel' came and took 'Nyassa' in tow, 'Orestes' having
'Pioneer.' Captain Chapman of 'Ariel' very kindly invited me
on board to save me from the knocking about of the 'Lady
Nyassa,' but I did not like to leave so long as there was any
danger, and accepted his invitation for Mr. Waller, who was
dreadfully sea-sick. On 15th we were caught by a hurricane
which whirled the 'Ariel' right round. Her sails, quickly put
to rights, were again backed so that the ship was driven
backward and a hawser wound itself round her screw, so as to
stop the engines. By this time she was turned so as to be
looking right across 'Lady Nyassa,' and the wind alone
propelling her as if to go over the little vessel. I saw no
hope of escape except by catching a rope's-end of the big
ship as she passed over us, but by God's goodness she glided
past, and we felt free to breathe. That night it blew a
furious gale. The captain offered to lower a boat if I would
come to the 'Ariel,' but it would have endangered all in the
boat: the waves dashed so hard against the sides of the
vessel, it might have been swamped, and my going away would
have taken heart out of those that remained. We then passed a
terrible night, but the 'Lady Nyassa' did wonderfully well,
rising like a little duck over the foaming billows. She took
in spray alone, and no green water. The man-of-war's people
expected that she would go down, and it was wonderful to see
how well she did when the big man-of-war, only about 200 feet
off, plunged so as to show a large portion of copper oh her
bottom, then down behind so as to have the sea level with the
top of her bulwarks. A boat hung at that level was smashed.
If we had gone down we could not have been helped in the
least--pitch dark, and wind whistling above; the black folks,
'ane bocking here, another there,' and wanting us to go to
the 'bank.' On 18th the weather moderated, and, the captain
repeating his very kind offer, I went on board with a good
conscience, and even then the boat got damaged. I was hoisted
up in it, and got rested in what was quite a steady ship as
compared with the 'Lady Nyassa.' The 'Ariel' was three days
cutting off the hawser, though nine feet under water, the men
diving and cutting it with immensely long chisels. On the
19th we spoke to a Liverpool ship, requesting the captain to
report me alive, a silly report having been circulated by the
Portuguese that I had been killed at Lake Nyassa, and on the
24th we entered Mozambique harbor, very thankful for our kind
and merciful preservation. The 'Orestes' has not arrived with
the 'Pioneer,' though she is a much more powerful vessel than
the 'Ariel.' Here we have a fort, built in 1500, and said to
be of stones brought from Lisbon. It is a square
massive-looking structure. The town adjacent is Arab in
appearance. The houses flat-roofed and colored white, pink,
and yellow; streets narrow, with plenty of slaves on them. It
is on an island, the mainland on the north being about a mile
off."
The "Pioneer" was delivered over to the Navy, being Her Majesty's
property, and proceeded to the Cape with the "Valorous," Mr. Waller
being on board with a portion of the mission flock. Of Mr. Waller
(subsequently editor of the _Last Journals_) Dr. Livingstone remarked
that "he continued his generous services to all connected with the
Mission, whether white or black, till they were no longer needed; his
conduct to them throughout was truly noble, and worthy of the
highest praise."
After remaining some weeks at Mozambique for thorough repairs, the
"Lady Nyassa" left on 16th April for Johanna and Zanzibar. She was
unable to touch at the former place, and reached Zanzibar on the 24th.
Offers were made for her there, which might have led to her being sold,
but her owner did not think them sufficient, and in point of fact, he
could not make up his mind to part with her. He clung to the hope that
she might yet be useful, and to sell her seemed equivalent to abandon
all hope of carrying out his philanthropic schemes. At all events, till
he should consult Mr. Young he would not sell her at such a sacrifice.
At Zanzibar he found that a naval gentleman, who had been lately there,
had not spoken of him in the most complimentary terms. But it had not
hurt him with his best friends. "Indeed, I find that evil-speaking
against me has, by the good providence of my God, turned rather to my
benefit. I got two of my best friends by being spoken ill of, for they
found me so different from what they had been led to expect that they
befriended me more than they otherwise would have done. It is the good
hand of Him who has all in his power that influences other hearts to
show me kindness."
The only available plan now was to cross the Indian Ocean for Bombay, or
possibly Aden, in the "Nyassa" and leave the ship there till he should
make a run home, consult with his friends as to the future, and find
means for the prosecution of his work. At Zanzibar a new difficulty
arose. Mr. Rae, the engineer, who had now been with him for many years,
and with whom, despite his peculiarities, he got on very well, signified
his intention of leaving him. He had the offer of a good situation, and
wished to accept of it. He was not without compunctions at leaving his
friend in the lurch, and told Livingstone that if he had had no offer
for the ship he would have gone with him, but as he had declined the
offer made to him, he did not feel under obligation to do so.
Livingstone was too generous to press him to remain. It was impossible
to supply Mr. Rae's place, and if anything should go wrong with the
engines, what was to be done? The entire crew of the vessel consisted of
four Europeans; namely, Dr. Livingstone--"skipper," one stoker, one
carpenter, and one sailor; seven native Zambesians, who, till they
volunteered, had never seen the sea, and two boys, one of whom was
Chuma, afterward his attendant on the last journey. With this somewhat
sorry complement, and fourteen tons of coal, Dr. Livingstone set out on
30th April, on a voyage of 2500 miles, over an ocean which he had
never crossed.
It was a very perilous enterprise, for he was informed that the breaking
of the monsoon occurred at the end of May or the beginning of June.
This, as he came to think, was too early; but in any case, he would come
very near the dangerous time. As he wrote to one of his friends, he felt
jammed into a corner, and what could he do? He believed from the best
information he could get that he would reach Bombay in eighteen days.
Had any one told him that he would be forty-five days at sea, and that
for twenty-five of these his ship would be becalmed, and even when she
had a favorable wind would not sail fast, even he would have looked pale
at the thought of what was before him. The voyage was certainly a
memorable one, and has only escaped fame by the still greater wonders
performed by Livingstone on land.
On the first day of the voyage, he made considerable way, but Collyer,
one of his white men, was prostrated by a bilious attack. However, one
of the black men speedily learned to steer, and took Dr. Livingstone's
place at the wheel. Hardly was Collyer better when Pennell, another of
his men, was seized. The chief foes of the ship were currents and calms.
Owing to the illness of the men they could not steam, and the sails were
almost useless. Even steam, when they got it up, enabled them only to
creep. On 20th May, Livingstone, after recording but sixteen knots in
the last twenty-four hours, says in his Journal: "This very unusual
weather has a very depressing influence on my mind. I often feel as if I
am to die on this voyage, and wish I had sent the accounts to the
Government, as also my chart to the Zambesi. I often wish that I may be
permitted to do something for the benighted of Africa. I shall have
nothing to do at home; by the failure of the Universities Mission my
work seems vain. No fruit likely to come from J. Moffat's mission
either. Have I not labored in vain? Am I to be cut off before I do
anything to effect permanent improvement in Africa? I have been
unprofitable enough, but may do something yet, in giving information. If
spared, God grant that I may be more faithful than I have been, and may
He open up the way for me!"
Next day the weather was as still as ever; the sea a glassy calm, with a
hot glaring sun, and sharks stalking about. "All ill-natured," says
honest Livingstone, "and in this I am sorry to feel compelled to join."
There is no sign of ill-nature, however, in the following remarks on
African travel, in his Journal for 23d May:
"In traveling in Africa, with the specific object in view of
ameliorating the benighted condition of the country, every
act is ennobled. In obtaining shelter for the night, and
exchanging the customary civilities, purchasing food for
one's party and asking the news of the country, and answering
in their own polite way any inquiries made respecting the
object of the journey, we begin to spread information
respecting that people by whose agency their land will yet be
made free from the evils that now oppress it. The mere animal
pleasure of traveling is very great. The elastic muscles have
been exercised. Fresh and healthy blood circulates in the
veins, the eye is clear, the step firm, but the day's
exertion has been enough to make rest thoroughly enjoyable.
There is always the influence of the remote chances of danger
on the mind, either from men or wild beasts, and there is the
fellow-feeling drawn out to one's humble, hardy companions,
with whom a community of interests and perils renders one
friends indeed. The effect of travel on my mind has been to
make it more self-reliant, confident of resources and
presence of mind. On the body the limbs become wall-knit, the
muscles after six months' tramping are as hard as a board,
the countenance bronzed as was Adam's, and no dyspepsia.
"In remaining at any spot, it is to work. The sweat of the
brow is no longer a curse when one works for God; it is
converted into a blessing. It is a tonic to the system. The
charms of repose cannot be known without the excitement of
exertion. Most travelers seem taken up with the difficulties
of the way, the pleasures of roaming free in the most
picturesque localities seem forgotten."
Toward the end of May a breeze at last springs up; many
flying-fish come on board, and Livingstone is as usual intent
on observation. He observes them fly with great ease a
hundred yards, the dolphin pursuing them swiftly, but not so
swiftly as they can fly. He notices that the dolphin's bright
colors afford a warning to his enemies, and give them a
chance of escape. Incessant activity is a law in obtaining
food. If the prey could be caught with ease, and no warning
were given, the balance would be turned against the feebler
animals, and carnivora alone would prevail. The cat shows her
shortened tail, and the rattlesnake shakes his tail, to give
warning to the prey. The flying-fish has large eyes in
proportion to other fish, yet leaps on board very often at
night, and kills himself by the concussion.
Livingstone is in great perplexity what to do. At the rate at
which his ship is going it would take him fifteen days to
reach Bombay, being one day before the breaking of the
monsoon, which would be running it too close to danger. He
thinks of going to Aden, but that would require him to go
first to Maculla for water and provisions. When he tries Aden
the wind is against him; so he turns the ship's head to
Bombay, though he has water enough for but ten or twelve days
on short allowance. "May the Almighty be gracious to us all
and help us!"
His Journal is a curious combination of nautical observations
and reflections on Africa and his work. We seem to hear him
pacing his little deck, and thinking aloud:
"The idea of a colony in Africa, as the term colony is
usually understood cannot be entertained. English races
cannot compete in manual labor of any kind with the natives,
but they can take a leading part in managing the land,
improving the quality, in creating the quantity and extending
the varieties of the productions of the soil; and by taking a
lead, too, in trade, and in all public matters, the
Englishman would be an unmixed advantage to every one below
and around him, for he would fill a place which is now
practically vacant.
"It is difficult to convey an idea of the country; it is so
different from all preconceived notions. The country in many
parts rises up to plateaus, slopes up to which are
diversified by valleys lined with trees; or here and there
rocky bluffs jut out; the plateaus themselves are open
prairies covered with grass dotted over with trees, and
watered by numerous streams. Nor are they absolutely flat,
their surface is varied by picturesque undulations. Deep
gorges and ravines leading down to the lower levels offer
special beauties, and landscapes from the edges of the higher
plateaus are in their way unequaled. Thence the winding of
the Shiré may be followed like a silver thread or broad lake
with its dark mountain mass behind.
"I think that the Oxford and Cambridge missionaries have
treated me badly in trying to make me the scapegoat of their
own blunders and inefficiency.... But I shall try equitably
and gently to make allowances for human weakness, though that
weakness has caused me much suffering."
On 28th May they had something like a foretaste of the breaking of the
monsoon, though happily that event did not yet take place. "At noon a
dense cloud came down on us from E. and N.E., and blew a furious gale;
tore sails; the ship, as is her wont, rolled broadside into it, and
nearly rolled quite over. Everything was hurled hither and thither. It
lasted half an hour, then passed with a little rain. It was terrible
while it lasted. We had calm after it, and sky brightened up. Thank God
for his goodness."
In June there was more wind, but a peculiarity in the construction of
the ship impeded her progress through the water. It was still very
tedious and trying. Livingstone seems to have been reading books that
would take his attention off the very trying weather.
"Lord Ravensworth has been trying for twenty years to reader the lines
in Horace--
'Dulce ridentem Lalagen amabo
Dulce loquentem.'
And after every conceivable variety of form this is the best:
'The softly speaking Lalage,
The softly smiling still for me.'
Pity he had nothing better to engage his powers, for instance the
translating of the Bible into one of the languages of the world."
The 10th of June was introduced by a furious squall which tore the fore
square-sail to ribbons. A curious sight is seen at sea: "two
serpents--said to be often seen on the coast. One dark olive, with light
yellow rings round it, and flattened tail; the other lighter in color.
They seem to be salt-water animals."
Next day, a wet scowling morning. Frequent rains, and thunder in the
distance. "A poor weak creature. Permit me to lean on an
all-powerful arm."
"The squalls usually come up right against the wind, and cast all our
sails aback. This makes them so dangerous, active men are required to
trim them to the other side. We sighted land a little before 12, the
high land of Rutnagerry. I thought of going in, but finding that we have
twenty-eight hours' steam, I changed my mind, and pushed on for Bombay,
115 miles distant. We are nearer the land down here than we like, but
our N.W. wind has prevented us from making northing. We hope for a
little change, and possibly may get in nicely. The good Lord of all
help us!
"At 3 P.M. wind and sea high; very hazy. Raining, with a strong head
wind; at 8 P.M. a heavy squall came off the land on our east. Wind
whistled through the rigging loudly, and we made but little progress
steaming. At 11 P.M. a nice breeze sprang up from east and helped us.
About 12 a white patch reported seemed a shoal, but none is marked on
the chart. Steered a point more out from land; another white patch
marked in middle watch. Sea and wind lower at 3 A.M. At daylight we
found ourselves abreast high land at least 500 feet above sea-level.
Wind light, and from east, which enables us to use fore and aft
try-sails. A groundswell on, but we are getting along, and feel very
thankful to Him who has favored us. Hills not so beautifully colored as
those in Africa....
"At 7 P.M. a furious squall came off the land; could scarcely keep the
bonnets on our heads. Pitchy dark, except the white curl on the waves,
which was phosphorescent. Seeing that we could not enter the harbor,
though we had been near, I stopped the steaming and got up the
try-sails, and let Pennell, who has been up thirty hours, get a sleep.
"13_th June_, 1864.--We found that we had come north only about ten
miles. We had calms after the squall, and this morning the sea is as
smooth as glass, and a thick haze over the land. A scum as of dust on
face of water. We are, as near as I can guess by the chart, about
twenty-five miles from the port of Bombay. Came to Choul Rock at
mid-day, and, latitude agreeing thereto, pushed on N. by W. till we came
to light-ship. It was so hazy inland we could see nothing whatever, then
took the direction by chart, and steered right into Bombay most
thankfully. I mention God's good providence over me, and beg that He may
accept my spared life for his service."
Between the fog and the small size of the Nyassa, her entrance into the
harbor was not observed. Among Livingstone's first acts on anchoring was
to give handsome gratuities to those who had shared his danger and
helped him in his straits. Going ashore, he called on the Governor and
the police magistrate, but the one was absent and the other busy, and so
he returned to the ship unrecognized. The schedules of the custom-house
sent to be filled up his first recognition by the authorities of
Bombay. He replied that except a few bales of calico and a box of beads
he had no merchandise; he was consigned to no one; the seamen had only
their clothes, and he did not know a single soul in Bombay. As soon as
his arrival was known every attention was showered on him by Sir Bartle
Frere, the Governor, and others. They had been looking out for him, but
he had eluded their notice. The Governor was residing at Dapuri, and on
his invitation Livingstone went there. Stopping at Poona, he called on
the missionaries, and riding on an elephant he saw some of the "lions"
of the place. Colonel Stewart, who accompanied him, threw some light on
the sea-serpent. "He told us that the yellow sea-serpent which we had
seen before reaching Bombay is poisonous; there are two kinds--one dark
olive, the other pale lemon color; both have rings of brighter yellow on
their tails."
Landing in India was a strange experience, as he tells Sir Thomas
Maclear. "To walk among the teeming thousands of all classes of
population, and see so many things that reading and pictures had made
familiar to the mind, was very interesting. The herds of the buffaloes,
kept I believe for their milk, invariably made the question glance
across the mind, 'Where's your rifle?' Nor could I look at the elephants
either without something of the same feeling. Hundreds of bales of
cotton were lying on the wharves.".
"20_th June_, 1864--Went with Captain Leith to Poona to visit the Free
Church Mission Schools there, under the Rev. Mr. Mitchell, Gardner, etc.
A very fine school of 500 boys and young men answered questions very
well.... All collected together, and a few ladies and gentlemen for whom
I answered questions about Africa. We then went to a girls' school; the
girls sang very nicely, then acted a little play. There were different
castes in all the schools, and quite mixed. After this we went to
College, where young men are preparing for degrees of the University
under Dr. Haug and Mr. Wordsworth; then to the Roman Catholic Orphanage,
where 200 girls are assembled, clothed, and fed under a French Lady
Superior--dormitory clean and well aired, but many had
scrofulous-looking sore eyes; then home to see some friends whom Lady
Frere had invited, to save me the trouble of calling on them. Saw Mr.
Cowan's daughter."
"21_st June_, 1864.--... Had a conversation with the Governor after
breakfast about the slaving going on toward the Persian Gulf. His idea
is that they are now only beginning to put a stop to slavery--they did
not know of it previously.... The merchants of Bombay have got the whole
of the trade of East Africa thrown on their hands, and would, it is
thought, engage in an effort to establish commerce on the coast. The
present Sultan is, for an Arab, likely to do a good deal. He asked if I
would undertake to be consul at a settlement, but I think I have not
experience enough for a position of that kind among Europeans."
On returning to Bombay, he saw the missionary institutions of the Scotch
Established and Free Churches, and arranged with Dr. Wilson of the
latter mission to take his two boys, Chuma and Wikatani. He arranged
also that the "Lady Nyassa," which he had not yet sold, should be taken
care of, and borrowing £133, 10s. for the passage-money of himself and
John Reid, one of his men, embarked for old England.
At Aden considerable rain had fallen lately; he observed that there was
much more vegetation than when he was there before, and it occurred to
him that at the time of the Exodus the same effects probably followed
the storms of rain, lightning, and hail in Egypt. Egypt was very far
from green, so that Dr. Stanley must have visited it at another part of
the year. At Alexandria, when he went on board the "Ripon," he found the
Maharaja Dhuleep Singh and his young Princess--the girl he had fancied
and married from an English Egyptian school. Paris is reached on the
21st July; a day is spent in resting; and on the evening of the 23d he
reaches Charing Cross, and is regaled with what, after nearly eight
years' absence, must have been true music--the roar of the
mighty Babylon.
The desponding views of his work which we find in such entries in his
Journal as that of 20th May must not be held to express his deliberate
mind. It must not be thought that he had thrown aside the motto which
had helped him as much as it had helped his royal countryman, Robert
Bruce--"Try again." He had still some arrows in his quiver. And his
short visit to Bombay was a source of considerable encouragement. The
merchants there, who had the East African trade in their hands,
encouraged him to hope that a settlement for honest traffic might be
established to the north of the region over which the Portuguese claimed
authority. As Livingstone moved homeward he was revolving two projects.
The first was to expose the atrocious slave-trading of the Portuguese,
which had not only made all his labor fruitless, but had used his very
discoveries as channels for spreading fresh misery over Africa. The
thought warmed his blood, and he felt like a Highlander with his hand on
his claymore. The second project was to find means for a new settlement
at the head of the Rovuma, or somewhere else beyond the Portuguese
lines, which he would return in the end of the year to establish.
Writing a short book might help to accomplish both these projects. As
yet, the idea of finding the sources of the Nile was not in his mind. It
was at the earnest request of others that he undertook the work that
cost him so many years of suffering, and at last his life.