MACARONI, is a dough of fine wheat flour, made into a tubular or pipe
form, of the thickness of goose-quills, which was first prepared in
Italy, and introduced into commerce under the name of Italian or Genoese
paste. The wheat for this purpose must be ground into a coarse flour,
called _gruau_ or _semoule_, by the French, by means of a pair of light
mill-stones, placed at a somewhat greater distance than usual. This
_semoule_ is the substance employed for making the dough. For the mode
of manufacturing it into pipes, see VERMICELLI.
MACE, is a somewhat thick, tough, unctuous membrane, reticulated or
chapt, of a yellowish-brown or orange colour. It forms the envelop of
the shell of the fruit of the _myristica moschata_, which contains the
nutmeg. It is dried in the sun, after being dipped in brine; sometimes
it is sprinkled over with a little brine, before packing, to prevent the
risk of moulding. Mace has a more agreeable flavour than nutmeg; with a
warm and pungent taste. It contains two kinds of oil; the one of which
is unctuous, bland, and of the consistence of butter; the other is
volatile, aromatic, and thinner. The membrane is used as a condiment in
cookery, and the aromatic oil in medicine.
MACERATION (Eng. and Fr.; _Einweichen_, Germ.), is a preparatory steep
to which certain vegetable and animal substances are submitted, with the
view of distending their fibres or pores, and causing them to be
penetrated by such menstrua as are best adapted to extract their soluble
parts. Water, alone, or mixed with acids, alkalis, or salts; alcohol and
ether, are the liquids usually employed for that purpose.
MACLE, is the name of certain diagonal black spots in minerals, like the
ace of diamonds in cards, supposed to proceed from some disturbance of
the particles in the act of crystallization.
MADDER (_Garance_, Fr.; _Färberröthe_, Germ.), a substance very
extensively used in dyeing, is the root of the _Rubia tinctorum_, a
plant, of which two species are distinguished by Linnæus.
The best roots are those which have the size of a writing quill, or, at
most, of the little finger. They are semitransparent, and reddish; have
a strong odour, and a smooth bark. They should be of two or three years’
growth.
The madder, taken from the ground and picked, must be dried in order to
be ground and preserved. In warm climates it is dried in the open air;
but, elsewhere, stoves must be employed.
The stringy filaments and epidermis are to be removed, called _mulle_;
as also the pith, so as to leave nothing but the ligneous fibres.
The preparation of madders is carried on in the department of the Rhone,
in the following manner.
The roots are dried in a stove, heated by means of a furnace, from which
the air is allowed to issue only at intervals, at the moment when it is
judged to be saturated with moisture. The furnace-flue occupies a great
portion of the floor; above are three close gratings, on which the roots
are distributed in layers of about two decimetres (nearly 8 inches). At
the end of 24 hours, those which are on the first grated floor directly
above the stove are dry, when they are taken away and replaced by those
of the superior floors. This operation is repeated whenever the roots
over the stove are dry. The dry roots are thrashed with a flail, passed
through fanners similar to those employed for corn, and then shaken upon
a very coarse sieve. What passes through is farther winnowed and sifted
through a finer sieve than the first. These operations are repeated five
times, proceeding successively to sieves still finer and finer, and
setting aside every time what remains on the sieve. What passes through
the fifth sieve is rejected as sand and dust. After these operations,
the whole fibrous matters remaining on the sieve are cleaned with common
fanners, and women separate all the foreign matters which had not been
removed before. For dividing the roots, afterwards, into different
qualities, a brass sieve is made use of, whose meshes are from six to
three millimetres in diameter (from 1/4th to 1/8th inch E.) What passes
through the finest is rejected; and what passes through the coarsest is
regarded as of the best quality. These roots thus separated, are carried
into a stove, of a construction somewhat different from the first. They
are spread out in layers of about a decimetre in thickness (nearly 4
inches E.), on large lattice-work frames, and the drying is known to be
complete, when on taking up a handful and squeezing it, the roots break
easily. On quitting the stove, the madder is carried, still hot, into a
machine, where it is minced small, and a sieve separates the portion of
the bark reduced to powder. This operation is repeated three or four
times, and then the boulter is had recourse to. What passes through the
sieve, or the brass meshes of the boulter, is regarded as common madder;
and what issues at the extremity of the boulter is called the flour.
Lastly, the madder which passes through the boulter is ground in a mill
with vertical stones, and then passed through sieves of different sizes.
What remains above is always better than what goes through.
The madder of Alsace is reduced to a very fine powder, and its colouring
matter is extracted by a much longer ebullition than is necessary for
the lizari of the Levant. The prepared madders ought to be carefully
preserved from humidity, because they easily imbibe moisture, in which
case fermentation spoils their colour.
D’Ambourney and Beckman have asserted, that it is more advantageous to
employ the fresh root of madder than what has been submitted to
desiccation, especially by means of stoves. But in its states of
freshness, its volume becomes troublesome in the dyeing bath, and
uniform observation seems to prove that it ameliorates by age. Besides,
it must be rendered susceptible of keeping and carrying easily.
It appears that madder may be considered as composed of two colouring
substances, one of which is dun (tawny), and the other is red. Both of
these substances may combine with the stuff. It is of consequence,
however, to fix only the red part. The dun portion appears to be more
soluble, but its fixity on stuffs may possibly be increased by the
affinity which it has for the red portion.
The different additions made to madder, and the multiplied processes to
which it is sometimes exposed, have probably this separation for their
chief object.
The red portion of madder is soluble, but in small quantity, in water.
Hence but a limited concentration can be given to its solution. If the
portion of this substance be too much increased, so far from obtaining a
greater effect, we merely augment the proportion of the dun part, which
is the more soluble of the two.
In consequence of the Société Industrielle of Mulhausen having offered
in the year 1826 large premiums to the authors of the best analytical
investigation of madder, eight memoirs were transmitted to it in the
year 1827. They were examined with the greatest care by a committee
consisting of able scientific and practical men. None of the competitors
however fulfilled the conditions of the programme issued by the
society; but four of them received a tribute of esteem and gratitude
from it; MM. Robiquet and Colin at Paris, Kuhlmann at Lille, and
Houton-Libillardière. Fresh premiums were offered for next year, to the
amount of 2000 francs.
Every real discovery made concerning this precious root, would be of
vast consequence to dyers and calico-printers. Both M. Kuhlmann, and
Robiquet and Colin, conceived that they had discovered a new principle
in madder, to which they gave the name _alizarine_. The latter two
chemists treated the powdered madder with sulphuric acid, taking care to
let it heat as little as possible. By this action the whole is
carbonized, except perhaps the red matter. The charcoal thus obtained is
pulverized, mixed with water, thrown upon a filter, and well washed in
the cold. It is next dried, ground, and diffused through fifty parts of
water, containing six parts of alum. This mixture is then boiled for one
quarter of an hour, and thrown upon a filter cloth while boiling hot.
The residuum is once more treated with a little warm alum water. The two
liquors are to be mixed, and one part of sulphuric acid poured into
them; when they are allowed to cool with occasional agitation. Flocks
now make their appearance; the clear liquid is decanted, and the grounds
are thrown upon a filter. The precipitate is to be washed, first with
acidulated water, then with pure water, and dried, when the colouring
matter is obtained in a red or purple state. This purple substance, when
heated dry, gives out alizarine, and an empyreumatic oil, having an
odour of animal matter; while a charcoally matter remains.
M. Dan. Kœchlin, the justly celebrated calico-printer of Mulhausen, has
no faith in alizarine as the dyeing principle of madder; and thinks
moreover that, were it of value, it could not be extracted on the great
scale, on account of the destructive heat which would result from the
acid acting upon a considerable body of the ground madder. Their
alizarine is not a uniform substance, as it ought to be, if a proximate
principle; for samples of it obtained in different repetitions of the
process have produced very variable effects in dyeing. The madders of
Avignon, though richer in colour than those of Alsace, afford however
little or no alizarine. In fact, _purpurine_, the crude substance from
which they profess to extract alizarine, is a richer dye than this
_pure_ substance itself.
Madder contains so beautiful and so fast a colour, that it has become of
almost universal employment in dyeing; but that colour is accompanied
with so many other substances which mask and degrade it, that it can be
brought out and fixed only after a series of operations more or less
difficult and precarious. This dye is besides so little soluble, that
much of it is thrown away in the dye-house; the portion supposed to be
exhausted being often as rich as other fresh madder; hence it would be a
most valuable improvement in this elegant art to insulate this
tinctorial body, and make it a new product of manufacture.
Before the time of Haussmann, an apothecary at Colmar, the madder bath
was subject to many risks, which that skilful chemist taught dyers how
to guard against, by introducing a certain quantity of chalk into the
bath. A change of residence led Haussmann to this fortunate result.
After having made very fine reds at Rouen, he encountered the greatest
obstacles in dyeing the same reds at Logelbach near Colmar, where he
went to live. Numerous trials, undertaken with the view of obtaining the
same success in his new establishment, proved that the cause of his
favourable results at Rouen existed in the water, which contained
carbonate of lime in solution, whilst the water of Logelbach was nearly
pure. He then tried a factitious calcareous water, by adding chalk to
his dye bath. Having obtained the most satisfactory results, he was not
long of producing here as beautiful and as solid reds as he had done at
Rouen. This practice became soon general among the calico-printers of
Alsace, though in many dye-works the chalk is now replaced by lime,
potash, or soda. But when the madder of Avignon is used, all these
antacid correctives become unnecessary, because it contains a sufficient
quantity of carbonate of lime; an important fact first analytically
demonstrated by that accurate chemist M. Henri Schlumberger of
Mulhausen. Avignon madder indicates the presence of carbonate of lime in
it, by effervescing with dilute acids, which Alsace madder does not.
M. Kuhlmann found a free acid resembling the malic, in his analysis of
madders. But his experiments were confined to those of Alsace. The
madders of Avignon are on the contrary alkaline, as may be inferred from
the violet tint of the froth of their infusions; whereas that of the
Alsace madders is yellowish, and it strongly reddens litmus paper. This
important difference between the plants of these two districts, depends
entirely upon the soil; for madders grown in a calcareous shelly soil in
Alsace, have been found to be possessed of the properties of the Avignon
madder.
The useful action of the carbonate and the phosphate of lime in the
madder of Avignon, explains why madders treated with acids which remove
their calcareous salts, without taking away their colouring matter, lose
the property of forming fast dyes. Many manufacturers are in the habit
of mixing together, and with advantage, different sorts of madder. That
of Avignon contains so much calcareous matter that, when mixed with the
madder of Alsace, it can compensate for its deficiency. Some of the
latter is so deficient as to afford colours nearly as fugitive as those
of Brazil wood and quercitron. The Alsace madders by the addition of
chalk to their baths, become as fit for dyeing Turkey reds as those of
Avignon. When the water is very pure, one part of chalk ought to be used
to five of Alsace madder, but when the waters are calcareous, the chalk
should be omitted. Lime, the neutral phosphate of lime, the carbonate of
magnesia, oxide and carbonate of zinc, and several other substances have
the property of causing madder to form a fast dye, in like manner as the
carbonate of lime.
The temperature of from 50° to 60° R. (145° to 167° F.), is the best
adapted to the solution of the colouring matter, and to its combination
with the mordants; and thus a boiling heat may be replaced
advantageously by the long continuance of a lower temperature. A large
excess of the dye-stuff in the bath is unfavourable in two points of
view; it causes a waste of colouring matter, and renders the tints dull.
It is injurious to allow the bath to cool, and to heat it again.
In a memoir published by the Society of Mulhausen, in September, 1835,
some interesting experiments upon the growth of madders in factitious
soils are related by MM. Kœchlin, Persoz, and Schlumberger. A patch of
ground was prepared containing from 50 to 80 per cent. of chalky matter,
and nearly one fifth of its bulk of good horse-dung. Slips of Alsace and
Avignon madders were planted in March, 1834, and a part of the roots
were reaped in November following. These roots, though of only six
months growth, produced tolerably fast dyes, nor was any difference
observable between the Alsace and the Avignon species; whilst similar
slips or cuttings, planted in a natural non-calcareous soil, alongside
of the others, yielded roots which gave fugitive dyes. Others were
planted in the soil of Palud, transported from Avignon, which contained
more than 90 per cent. of carbonate of lime, and they produced roots
that gave still faster dyes than the preceding. Three years are
requisite to give the full calcareous impregnation to the indigenous
madders of Avignon.
As to the function of the chalk, valuable observations, made long ago by
M. Daniel Kœchlin, have convinced him, that the combination of two
different bases with a colouring matter, gave much more solidity to the
dye, in consequence, undoubtedly, of a greater insolubility in the
compound. Experiments recently made by him and his colleagues above
named, prove that in all cases of madder-dyeing under the influence of
chalk, a certain quantity of lime becomes added to the aluminous
mordant. In the subsequent clearing with a soap bath, some of the
alumine is removed, and there remains upon the fibre of the cloth a
combination of these two earths in atomic proportions. Thus the chalk is
not for the purpose of saturating the acid, as had been supposed, but of
forming a definite compound with alumina, and probably also with the
fatty bodies, and the colouring matter itself.
The red mordants are prepared commonly in Alsace, as follows:--The
crushed alum and acetate of lead being weighed, the former is put into a
deep tub, and dissolved by adding a proper quantity of hot water, when
about one tenth of its weight of soda crystals is introduced to saturate
the excess of acid in the alum. The acetate of lead is now mixed in; and
as this salt dissolves very quickly, the reaction takes place almost
instantly. Care must be taken to stir for an hour. The vessel should not
be covered, lest its contents should cool too slowly.
The different mordants most generally employed for madder, are detailed
under _Colours_, in CALICO-PRINTING and MORDANT.
Much mordant should not be prepared at once, for sooner or later it will
deposit some sub-acetate of alumina. This decomposition takes place even
in corked phials in the cold; and the precipitate does not readily
dissolve again in acetic acid. All practical men know that certain
aluminous mordants are decomposed by heating them, and restored on
cooling, as Gay Lussac has pointed out. He observed, that by adding to
pure acetate of alumina, some alum or sulphate of potash, the mixture
acquires the property of forming a precipitate with a heat approaching
the boiling point, and of redissolving on cooling. The precipitate is
alumina nearly pure, according to M. Gay Lussac; but, by M. Kœchlin’s
more recent researches, it is shown to be sub-sulphate of alumina,
containing eight times as much base as the neutral sulphate.
_Madder dye._--On account of the feeble solubility of its colouring
matter in water, we cannot dye with its decoction; but we must boil the
dye-stuff along with the goods to be dyed; thereby the water dissolves
fresh portions of the dye, and imparts it in succession to the textile
fibres. In dyeing with madder, we must endeavour to fix as little of the
dun matter as possible upon the cloth.
_Dyeing on wool._--Alumed wool takes, in the madder bath, a red colour,
which is not so bright as cochineal red, but it is faster; and as it is
far cheaper, it is much used in England to dye soldiers cloth. A mordant
of alum and tartar is employed; the bath of madder, at the rate of from
8 to 16 ounces for the pound of cloth, is heated to such a degree that
we can just hold our hand in it, and the goods are then dyed by the
wince, without heating the bath more till the colouring matter be fixed.
Vitalis prescribes as a mordant, one fourth of alum, and one sixteenth
of tartar; and for dyeing, one third of madder, with the addition of a
24th of solution of tin diluted with its weight of water. He raises the
temperature in the space of an hour, to 200°, and afterwards he boils
for 3 or 4 minutes; a circumstance which is believed to contribute to
the fixation of the colour. The bath, after dyeing, appears much loaded
with yellow matter, because this has less affinity for the alum mordant
than the red. Sometimes a little archil is added to the madder, to give
the dye a pink tinge; but this is fugitive.
Silk is seldom dyed with madder, because cochineal affords brighter
tints.
_Dyeing on cotton and linen._--The most brilliant and fastest madder red
is the Turkey or Adrianople. The common madder reds are given in the
following way:--The yarn or cloth is boiled in a weak alkaline bath,
washed, dried and galled, by steeping the cotton in a decoction of
bruised galls or of sumach. After drying, it is twice alumed; for which
purpose, for every 4 parts of the goods, one part of alum is taken,
mixed with 1-16th of its weight of chalk. The goods are dipped into a
warm solution of the alum, wrung out, dried, and alumed afresh, with
half the quantity. The acetate of alumina mordant, described above,
answers much better than common alum for cotton. After the goods are
dried and rinsed, they are passed through the dye bath, which is formed
of 3/4 lb. of good madder for every pound of cotton; and it is raised to
the boiling point by degrees, in the space of 50 or 60 minutes. Whenever
the ebullition has continued a few minutes, the goods must be removed,
washed slightly, and dyed a second time in the same way, with as much
madder. They are then washed and passed through a warm soap bath, which
removes the dun colouring matter.
Hölterhoff prescribes for ordinary madder red the following
proportions:--20 pounds of cotton yarn; 14 pounds of Dutch madder; 3
pounds of nut-galls; 5 pounds of alum; to which 1/2 lb. of acetate of
lead has been first added, and then a quarter of a pound of chalk.
In the calico-print works the madder goods are passed through a bran
bath first, immediately after dyeing; next, after several days exposure
to the air, when the dun dye has become oxidized, and is more easily
removed. An addition of chalk, on the principles explained above, is
sometimes useful in the madder bath. If bran be added to the madder
bath, the colour becomes much lighter, and of an agreeable shade.
Sometimes bran-water is added to the madder bath, instead of bran.
_Adrianople or Turkey red._--This is the most complicated and tedious
operation in the art of dyeing; but it produces the fastest colour which
is known. This dye was discovered in India, and remained long a process
peculiar to that country. It was afterwards practised in other parts of
Asia and in Greece. In 1747, Ferquet and Goudard brought Greek dyers
into France, and mounted near Rouen, and in Languedoc, Turkey-red dye
works. In 1765, the French government, convinced of the importance of
this business, caused the processes to be published. In 1808, Reber, at
Mariakirch, furnished the finest yarn of this dye, and M. Köchlin became
celebrated for his Turkey-red cloth.
_Process for Turkey-red._--The first step consists in clearing the yarn
or cloth in alkaline baths, and dipping them in oily liquors, to which
sheep’s dung was formerly added. This operation is repeated several
times, the goods being dried after each immersion. There next follows
the cleansing with alkaline liquors to remove the excess of oil, the
galling, the aluming, the maddering, the brightening or removing the dun
part of the dye by boiling, at a high temperature, with alkaline liquid,
and the rosing by boiling in a bath of salt of tin. We shall give some
details concerning this tedious manipulation, and the differences which
exist in it in the principal dye-works.
At Rouen, where the process was first brought to perfection, two methods
are pursued, called the gray and the yellow course or march. In the
gray, the dye is given immediately after the cotton has received the
oily mordant, the gall, and the alum, as it has then a gray colour. In
the yellow course, it is passed through fresh oils, alum, and galls
before the maddering, the cotton having then a yellow tint.
Different views have been taken of the principles of the Turkey red dye,
and the object and utility of the various steps. The most ancient notion
is that of animalizing the cotton by dung and blood, but experience has
proved that without any animal matter the finest colour may be obtained.
According to Dingler, the cotton is imbued with oil by steeping it in
combinations of oil and soda; the oil is altered by repeated dryings at
a high temperature; it attracts oxygen from the air, and thereby
combines intimately with the cotton fibre, so as to increase the weight
of the stuff. The dung, by a kind of fermentation, accelerates the
oxidizement, and hence crude oil is preferable to pure. In England, the
mucilaginous oils of Gallipoli are preferred, and in Malabar, oils more
or less rancid. The drying oils do not answer. The subsequent treatment
with the alkaline liquors removes the excess of oil, which has not been
oxidized and combined; a hard drying completely changes that which
remains in the fibres; the aluming which follows combines alumina with
the cotton; the galling tans the fibres, producing a triple compound of
oil and alum, which fixes the colouring matter. The object of the other
steps is obvious.
According to Wuttich the treatment with oil opens the cotton so as to
admit the mordant and the colouring matter, but the oil and soap do not
combine with the fibres. In the alkaline baths which follow, the oil is
transformed into soap and removed; whence the cotton should not increase
in weight in the galling and aluming; the cotton suffers a kind of
tanning, and the saline parts of the blood assist in fixing the madder
dye.
_The German process improved_, according to Dingler, consists of the
following operations: mordant of an oily soap or a soapy liniment, hard
drying; alkaline bath, drying, steeping, rinsing away of the uncombined
mordant, drying; galling, drying; aluming, drying, steeping in water
containing chalk, rinsing; maddering, airing, rinsing; brightening with
an alkaline boil, and afterwards in a bath containing salt of tin; then
washing and drying.
The yarn or the cloth must be first well worked in a bath of sheep’s
dung and oil, compounded as follows:--25 pounds of sheep’s dung are to
be bruised in a solution of pure caustic potash of hydrometer strength
3°, and the mixed liquor is to be passed through a sieve. Two pounds of
fine oil are now to be poured into 16 pounds of this lye, after which 30
pounds of coarse oil are to be added, with agitation for 1/4 of an hour.
Other 4 pounds of hot lye are to be well stirred in, till the whole is
homogeneous. This proportion of mordant is sufficient for 100 pounds of
cotton yarn, for 90 pounds of unbleached or 100 pounds of bleached
cotton goods. The cotton stuff, after being well wrung out, is to be
laid in a chest and covered with a lid loaded with weights, in which
state it should remain for five days. At the end of 24 hours, the cotton
becomes hot with fermentation, gets imbued with the mordant, and the oil
becomes rapidly altered. The goods are next exposed freely to the air
during the day, and in the evening they are dried in a hot chamber,
exposed to a temperature of 158° F., for 6 or 8 hours, which promotes
the oxidizement of the oil.
The goods are now passed the second time through a soapy-oil mordant
similar to the first, then dried in the air by day, and in the hot stove
by night. The third and fourth oil-soap steeps are given in the same
way, but without the dung. The fifth steep is composed of a lye at 2°,
after which the goods must also be dried. Indeed from the first to the
fourth steep, the cotton stuff should be put each time into a chamber
heated to 145° F. for 12 or 15 hours, and during 18 hours after the
fifth steep.
The uncombined oil must, in the next place, be withdrawn by the
_degraissage_, which consists in steeping the goods for 6 hours in a
very weak alkaline ley. After rinsing and wringing, they are dried in
the air, and then put into the hot stove.
The goods are now galled in a bath formed of 36 pounds of Sicilian
sumach, boiled for 3 hours in 260 pounds of water, and filtered. The
residuum is treated with 190 fresh pounds of water. This decoction is
heated with 12 pounds of pounded nut-galls to the boiling point, allowed
to cool during the night, and used next morning as hot as the hand can
bear; the goods being well worked through it. They are again dried in
the air, and afterwards placed in a stove moderately heated. They are
next passed through a tepid alum bath, containing a little chalk; left
afterwards in a heap during the night, dried in the air, and next in the
stove. The dry goods are finally passed through hot water containing a
little chalk, wrung out, rinsed, and then maddered.
For dyeing, the copper is filled with water, the fire is kindled, and an
ounce and a half of chalk is added for every pound of madder; a pound
and a quarter of madder being taken for every pound of cotton yarn. The
goods are now passed through the bath, so that they penetrate to near
its bottom. The fire must be so regulated, that the copper will begin to
boil in the course of from 2-1/2 to 3 hours; and the ebullition must be
continued for an hour; after which the yarn is aired and rinsed. Cloth
should be put into the dye-bath when its temperature is 77°, and winced
at a heat of from 100° to 122° during the first hour; at 167° during the
second; and at the boiling point when the third hour begins. It is to be
kept boiling for half an hour; so that the maddering lasts four hours.
Dingler does not add sumach or galls to the madder bath, because their
effect is destroyed in the subsequent brightening, and he has no faith
in the utility of blood.
After being dyed, the goods are washed, pressed, and subjected to a
soapy alkaline bath at a high heat, in a close boiler, by which the dun
parts of the galls and the madder are dissolved away, and the red colour
remains in all its lustre. This operation is called brightening. It is
repeated in a similar liquor, to which some muriate of tin is added for
the purpose of enlivening the colour and giving it a rosy tint. Last of
all, the goods are rinsed, and dried in the shade.