Take 1 gallon of water, in which dissolve with heat,
5 pounds of sulphate of copper, and 1 pound of verdigris. When the two
salts are dissolved, remove the kettle from the fire, and put into it 1
quart of solution of nitrate of copper, and 5 pounds of acetate of lead.
Stir the mixture to facilitate the decomposition, and allow the pigment
to subside.
It must be thickened with 2-1/2 libs. of gum per gallon, for pencilling;
or 12 oz. of starch for the block. The goods printed with this paste are
to be winced through a caustic lye, till a fine sky-blue be produced;
then washed well and rinsed. They are now to be passed through water,
containing from half an ounce to an ounce of white arsenic per piece; 4
turns are sufficient; if it be too long immersed, it will take a yellow
tint.
Catechu has been considerably employed by calico-printers of late years,
as it affords a fine permanent substantive brown, of the shade called
_carmelite_ by the French. The following formula will exemplify its mode
of application:--
Take 1 gallon of water;
1 pound of catechu in fine powder; reduce by boiling to half a gallon,
pass the decoction through a fine sieve, and dissolve in it 4 ounces of
verdigris; allow it then to cool, and thicken the solution with 5 ounces
of starch; while the paste is hot, dissolve in it 5 ounces of pulverized
muriate of ammonia.
Print-on this paste, dry, and wash. It is a fast colour.
I shall subjoin the prescriptions for two fancy cochineal printing
colours.
_Amaranth by cochineal._--Pad the pieces in the aluminous mordant of
spec. grav. 1·027, page 224.
Dry in the hot flue; and after hanging up the goods during 3 days, wince
well through chalky water, and then dye, as follows:--
For each piece of 28 or 30 yards, 8 ounces of cochineal are to be made
into a decoction of 2 gallons in bulk, which is to be poured into a
kettle with a decoction of 3 ounces of galls, and with 2 ounces of bran.
The pieces are to be entered, and winced as in the madder bath, during
two hours and a half; then washed in the dash wheel. On mixing with the
amaranth bath a certain quantity of logwood, very beautiful lilacs and
violets may be obtained.
_Mixture of quercitron and cochineal._--Pad in the aluminous mordant,
and dye with 2 libs. of quercitron, and 4 ounces of cochineal, when a
capuchin colour will be obtained. If we pad with the following mordant;
viz. 1 gallon of acetate of alumina of 1·056 spec. grav., and 1 of iron
liquor of 1·02 spec. grav., and dye with 1 pound of quercitron, and 1
ounce of cochineal, we shall obtain a shade like boot-tops, of extreme
vivacity.
Two ounces of cochineal will print a long piece of calico with rich pink
figures, having acetate of alumina for a mordant. As the ground is
hardly tinged by the dye, it neither needs nor admits of much clearing.
I have already mentioned that goods are sometimes padded with solution
of perchloride of tin before printing-on them the steam colours, whereby
they acquire both permanence and vivacity. I have also stated that the
salts of tin at a high temperature are apt to corrode the fibre of the
stuff, and therefore must be used with discretion. This danger is
greatly lessened by adding to the perchloride of tin a sufficient
quantity of caustic potash lye to form a stannate of potash. The goods
are padded through this substance, diluted with water, dried with a
moderate heat, and then immersed in very dilute sulphuric acid, which
saturates the potash, and precipitates the tin oxide within the pores of
the cloth. Calico thus prepared affords brilliant and permanent colours
by the steam process, above described.
_Printing of silks or woollen stuffs, such as merinoes and mousselin de
laine, as also of mixed stuffs of silk and wool, such as chalys._--All
these prints are applied, not by the cylinder but the block, and are
fixed by the application of steam in one of four ways; 1. By the
_lanthorn_; 2. By the _cask_; 3. By the _chest_; or 4. By the _chamber_.
[Illustration: 238]
1. _By the lanthorn._--In this mode of exposure to steam, the goods are
stretched upon a frame; and therefore the apparatus may be described
under two heads; the lanthorn and the frame. The former is made of
copper, in the shape of a box A B C D E, _fig._ 238., open below, and
with a sloping roof above, to facilitate the trickling down of the water
condensed upon the walls. The sides B C D E are 4-1/2 feet high, 6 feet
long, and 4 feet wide. The distance of the point A from the line E B is
2 feet. At F is a brass socket, which may be stopped with a cork; and
there is a similar one at the other side. This kind of penthouse may be
raised by means of a pully with cords fixed to the four angles of the
roof E B; and it rests upon the table G H, a little larger than the area
of the box, which stands upon the four feet I K. Round the borders of
the table there is a triangular groove _a b_, for receiving the lower
edges of the box, and it is stuffed steam-tight with lists of cloth.
Through the centre of the table, the two-inch steam pipe M passes; it
is surmounted with an hemispherical rose pierced with numerous holes for
the equal distribution of the steam. Right above it, a disc N is placed
upon four feet. The tube L communicates with a box P, which has a syphon
Q to let off the condensed water. At the upper part of this box the tube
L terminates which brings the steam. The little table G H slopes towards
the part G, where the syphon R is placed for drawing off the water.
The _frame_ has such dimensions, that it may stand in the four corners
of the table at S S, as pointed out by the dotted lines. The second part
embraces an open square frame, which is formed by spars of wood 2 inches
square, mortised together; and is 3 feet 8 inches wide, 5 feet 8 inches
long, and 4 feet 3 inches high; it is strengthened with cross bars. Upon
the two sides of its breadth, two rows of round brass hooks are placed,
about half an inch apart; they are soldered to a copper plate fixed to
uprights by means of screws.
Before hanging up the goods, a piece of cloth 3 feet 8 inches long, and
4 feet wide, is placed upon the row of hooks; and 3 feet of it are left
hanging out.
One foot within, the hooks pass through the cloth. A similar one is
fitted to the other side. This cloth is intended to cover the goods hung
upon the hooks; and it is kept straight by resting upon strings. The
pieces are attached zig-zag from one hook to another. When the frame is
filled, the bag is put within the cloths; it has the same rectangular
shape as the frame. The pieces are in this way all encased in the cloth;
a bit of it being also put beneath to prevent moisture affecting that
part.
When shawls are framed, they are attached with pins; and if they be too
large, they are doubled back to back, with the fringes at top.
These arrangements being made, the frame is set upon the table, the
penthouse is placed over it, and the steam is admitted during from 35 to
45 minutes, according to circumstances. The orifice F is opened at first
to let the air escape, and when it begins to discharge steam it is
stopped. The frame is taken out at the proper time, the bag is removed,
the cloths are lifted off, and the goods are spread out for airing.
Three frames and six bags are required for a constant succession of
work. The above apparatus is particularly suitable for silks.
[Illustration: 239 240]
2. _The drum._--This is the most simple mode of steaming. The apparatus
is a drum of white wood, 2 inches thick, _fig._ 239.; the bottom is
pierced with a hole which admits the steam-pipe F, terminating in a
perforated rose. Four inches from the bottom there is a canvass
partition E, intended to stop any drops of water projected from the tube
F, and also to separate the condensed water from the body of the
apparatus. The drum is covered in by a wooden head H, under which the
goods are placed. It is made fast either by bolts, or by hooks, G G,
thus [S], to which weighted cords are hung. The frame 1, _fig._ 240.
rests upon a hoop, _a a_, a few inches from the edge. The goods are hung
upon the frame in the ordinary way, and then wrapped round with flannel.
The frame is studded with pin points, like that of the indigo vat, fixed
about 5 inches asunder. From 20 to 30 minutes suffice for one steaming
operation. The upper part of the frame must be covered also with
flannels to prevent the deposition of moisture upon it. At the bottom of
the drum there is a stopcock to let off the condensed water. According
to the size of the figure, which is 3 feet 2 inches, 50 yards may be
hung up single; but they may be doubled on occasion.
[Illustration: 241 242 243 244]
3. _The box._--This steaming apparatus is convenient from the large
quantity of goods admissible at a time: it answers best for woollen
stuffs. From 12 to 16 pieces, of 36 yards each, may be operated upon at
once; and from 240 to 260 shawls. It is formed of a deal box, A B C D,
_fig._ 241., 4 feet wide, 6 long, and 3 high; the wood being 4 inches
thick. It is closed by a cover of the same substance, I, which is made
steam-tight at the edges by a list of felt. The lid is fastened down by
5 cross bars of iron, _a a a a a_, which are secured by screws, _c c c c
c_, _fig._ 242. The ends of these cross bars are let into the notches,
_b b b b b_, on the edge of the box. The safety valve M, _fig._ 241., is
placed upon the lid. For taking off the lid, there are rings at the
four corners, _d d d d_, bearing cords, F F F F. These join at the
centre into one, which passes over a pulley. Eight inches from the
bottom of the box there is a horizontal canvass partition, beneath which
the steam is discharged from the pipe L, _fig._ 243. There are two
ledges, E F G H, at the sides for receiving the bobbins. The tube L runs
round the box, as shown by the letters _d a e b_: the end _d_ is shut;
but the side and top are perforated with many holes in the direction
towards the centre of the box. _Fig._ 244. shows the arrangement of the
lower set of bobbins: that of the upper set is shown by the dotted
lines: it is seen to be in an alternate position, one lying between two
others. They are formed of pieces of deal 4 inches broad, 1 inch thick,
and of a length equal to the width of the box. They are first wrapped
round with 5 or 6 turns of doubled flannel or calico: the piece of goods
is laid over it upon a table, and then wrapped round. At the end of the
piece, several folds of the covering must be put, as, also, a roll of
flannel. The two ends must be slightly tied with packthread. When these
flat bobbins are arranged in the box, the steam is let on them, and
continued about 45 minutes: it is then shut off, the lid is removed, and
the pieces are unrolled.
[Illustration: 245]
4. _The chamber._--The interior height of the chamber, A B C D, _fig._
245., is 9 feet, the length 12 feet, and the breadth 9 feet. The steam
is introduced into it by two pipes, _a b c_, _d e f_. Their two ends, _d
c_, are shut; but their sides are all along perforated with small holes.
The frames E F G H, E F G H, are moveable, and run upon rollers: they
are taken out by front doors, which are made of strong planks, shut by
sliding in slots, and are secured by strong iron bars and pressure
screws. The cross rods, E F G H, are provided with hooks for hanging up
the pieces. There is a safety-valve in the top of this large chamber.
The dimensions of the frame are 10 feet long, 3 feet wide, and 7 high.
Three feet and a half from the upper part of the frame, a row of hooks
is fixed for hanging on a double row of pieces, as shown in the figure.
Over the frame, woollen blankets are laid to protect it from drops of
water that might fall from the roof of the chamber. When the hooks are
two thirds of an inch apart, 24 pieces, of 28 yards each, may be
suspended at once. The period of steaming is from 45 to 60 minutes.
Muslins and silks do not require so high a temperature as woollen goods.
When the stuffs are padded with colour, like merinos and chalys, they
must not be folded together, for fear of stains, which are sometimes
occasioned by the column in steam calico-printing, where the end which
receives the first impression of the steam is seldom of the same shade
as the rest of the roll of goods. The duration of the steaming depends
upon the quantity of acid in the mordant, and of saline solution in the
topical colour; the more of which are present, the shorter should be the
steaming period. A dry vapour is requisite in all cases; for when it
becomes moist, from a feeble supply or external condensation, the goods
become streaky or stained by the spreading of the colours.
1. _Black figures_ are given by decoction of logwood thickened with
starch, to which a little oxalic acid is added while hot, and, after it
is cold, neutralised solution of nitrate of iron.
2. _Dark blue for a ground._--Decoction of logwood, and archil thickened
with starch; to which, while the paste is hot, a little soluble Prussian
blue is added; and, when it is cold, neutralised nitrate of iron; see
_supra._
3. _Deep poppy or ponceau colour._--Cochineal boiled in starch water,
with oxalic acid (or tartaric), and perchloride of tin.
4. _Rose._--Cochineal infusion; oxalic acid; perchloride of tin;
thickened with gum.
5. _Dark amaranth._--Decoctions of archil and cochineal, thickened with
starch: to the paste, alum and perchloride of tin are added.
6. _Capuchin colour._--Quercitron and cochineal thickened with starch;
to the paste add oxalic acid, and perchloride of tin.
7. _Annotto orange._--Dissolve the annotto in soda lye, of spec. grav.
1·07, at a boiling heat; add aluminate of soda, and thicken with gum.
8. _Golden yellow._--Decoction of Persian berries thickened with starch;
to which some alum and muriate of tin are added, with a little
perchloride of tin and oxalic acid.