Strength of iron-cables compared to hemp cables:--

+---------------------+----------------------+-----------+

| Iron Cables. | Hemp Cables. |Resistance.|

|Diameter of Iron Rod.|Circumference of Rope.| |

+---------------------+----------------------+-----------+

| _Inches._ | _Inches._ | _Tons._ |

| 0-7/8 | 9 | 12 |

| 1 | 10 | 18 |

| 1-1/8 | 11 | 26 |

| 1-1/4 | 12 | 32 |

| 1-5/16 | 13 | 35 |

| 1-3/8 | 14 to 15 | 38 |

| 1-1/2 | 16 | 44 |

| 1-5/8 | 17 | 52 |

| 1-3/4 | 18 | 60 |

| 1-7/8 | 20 | 70 |

| 2 | 22 to 24 | 80 |

+---------------------+----------------------+-----------+

It would be imprudent to put hemp cables to severer strains than those

indicated in the preceding table, drawn up from Brunton’s experiments;

but the iron cables of the above sizes will support a double strain

without breaking. They ought never in common cases however to be exposed

to a greater stress. A cable destined for ships of a certain tonnage,

should not be employed in those of greater burden. Thus treated it may

be always trusted to do its duty, and will last longer than the ship to

which it belongs. A considerable part of this decided superiority which

iron cables have over hemp ones, is undoubtedly due to the admirable

form contrived by Brunton. Repeated experiments have proved that his

cables possess double the strength of the iron rods with which they are

made--a fact which demonstrates that no stronger form can be devised or

is in fact possible.

One of the most valuable qualities of iron cables is their resisting

lateral as well as longitudinal strains as explained under _figs._ 219.

and 221.

Vessels furnished with such cables have been saved by them from the most

imminent peril. The Henry, sent out with army stores during the

peninsular war, was caught on the northern coast of Spain in a furious

storm. She run for shelter into the Bay of Biscay among the rocks, where

she was exposed for three days to the hurricane. She possessed

fortunately one of Brunton’s 70 fathom chain cables, which held good all

the time, but it was found afterwards to have had the links of its lower

portion polished bright by attrition against the rocky bottom. A hemp

cable would have been speedily torn to pieces in such a predicament.

In the contracts of the Admiralty for chain cables for the British navy,

it is stipulated that “the iron shall have been manufactured in the best

manner from pig iron, smelted from iron-stone only, and selected of the

best quality for the purpose, and shall not have received in any process

whatever subsequent to the smelting, the admixture of either the cinder

or oxides produced in the manufacture of iron; and shall also have been

puddled in the best manner upon iron bottoms, and at least three times

sufficiently drawn out at three distinct welding heats, and at least

twice properly fagotted.”

The following is a table of the breaking proof of chain cables, and of

the iron for the purpose of making them, also of the proofs required by

her majesty’s navy for chains.

+-------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------+

|Size of Bolt.|Proof of Bolt.|Proof of Chain.|Navy Proof of Chain.|

+-------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------+

| _Inches._ |_Tons._ _Cwt._|_Tons._ _Cwt._ | _Tons._ |

| 1/2 | 5 7 | 8 11 | 4-1/2 |

| 5/8 | 8 7 | 13 4 | 5-1/2 |

| 3/4 | 12 1 | 19 5 | 10-7/8 |

| 7/8 | 16 4 | 26 5 | 13-3/4 |

| 1 | 21 8 | 34 5 | 18 |

| 1-1/8 | 27 2 | 48 15 | 22-3/4 |

| 1-1/4 | 33 10 | 53 11 | 28-1/2 |

| 1-3/8 | 40 10 | 65 0 | 34 |

| 1-1/2 | 48 4 | 77 0 | 40-1/2 |

| 1-5/8 | 56 11 | 90 10 | 47-1/2 |

| 1-3/4 | 65 12 | 105 0 | 55-1/8 |

| 1-7/8 | 75 6 | 120 10 | 63-1/4 |

| 2 | 85 14 | 137 0 | 72 |

| 2-1/8 | 96 15 | 155 0 | 81-1/4 |

+-------------+--------------+---------------+--------------------+

In Brunton’s cable the matter in the link is thrown very much into one

plane; the link being of an oval form, and provided with a stay. As

there are emergencies in which the cable must be severed, this is

accomplished in those of iron by means of a bolt and sheckle (shackle),

at every fathom or two fathoms; so that by striking out this bolt or

pin, this cable is parted with more ease than a hempen one can be cut.

CACAO, BUTTER OF. See COCOA, and OILS, UNCTUOUS.

CADMIUM, is a metal discovered about the beginning of the year 1818. It

occurs chiefly in Silesia in several ores of zinc; and may be readily

recognized by means of the blowpipe; for at the first impression of the

reducing or smoky part of the flame, the ores containing cadmium stain

the charcoal all round them with a reddish yellow circle of oxide of

cadmium. The Silesian native oxide of zinc contains from 1-1/2 to 11 per

cent. of cadmium.

The cadmium may be extracted by dissolving the ore in sulphuric acid,

leaving the solution acidulous, and diluting it with water, then

transmitting through it a stream of sulphuretted hydrogen, till the

yellow precipitate ceases to fall. This powder which is sulphuret of

cadmium, is to be dissolved in concentrated muriatic acid, the excess of

which is to be expelled by evaporation; and the muriatic salt being

dissolved in water, carbonate of ammonia is to be added in excess,

whereby the cadmium separates as a carbonate, while the small portion of

adhering copper or zinc is retained in solution by the ammonia. Herapath

has shown that, in distilling zinc _per descensum_ (see ZINC), the first

portions of gaseous metal which are disengaged burn with a brown flame

and deposit the brown oxide of cadmium.

Cadmium has the colour and lustre of tin; and is susceptible of a fine

polish. Its fracture is fibrous; it crystallizes readily in regular

octahedrons, and when it suddenly solidifies, its surface gets covered

with fine mossy vegetations. It is soft, easily bent, filed, and cut,

soils like lead any surface rubbed with it. It is harder and more

tenacious than tin, and emits a creaking sound when bent, like that

metal. It is very ductile, and may be drawn out into fine wire, and

hammered into thin leaves without cracking at the edges. Its specific

gravity, after being merely melted, is 8·604; and 8·6944 after it has

been hammered. It is very fusible, melting at a heat much under redness;

indeed at a temperature little exceeding that of boiling mercury, it

boils and distils over in drops. Its vapours have no smell. It is but

slightly altered by exposure to air. When heated in the atmosphere, it

readily takes fire, and burns with a brownish yellow smoke which is

destitute of smell. In strong acids it dissolves with disengagement of

hydrogen, and forms colourless solutions. Chromate of potash causes no

precipitate in them, unless zinc or lead be present.

There is only one oxide of cadmium, the brown above-mentioned. Its

specific gravity is 8·183. It is neither fusible nor volatile at a very

high temperature. When in the state of a hydrate it is white. The oxide

of cadmium consists of 87·45 parts of metal, and 12·55 oxygen in 100

parts. Berzelius states its atomic weight to be 55·833 to hydrogen

1·000. Its sulphuret has a fine orange yellow colour, and would form a

beautiful pigment, could the metal be found in sufficient quantity for

the purposes of art. The sulphate is applied to the eyes by surgeons for

removing specks of the cornea.

CAFEINE. A chemical principle discovered in coffee, remarkable for

containing much azote. See COFFEE.

CAJEPUT OIL is obtained from the leaves of the tree called Melaleuca

Leucadendron by Linnæus, which grows upon the mountains of Amboyna, and

in other of the Molucca islands. It is procured by distillation of the

dried leaves along with water, is prepared in great quantities in the

island of Banda, and sent to Holland in copper flasks. Hence as it comes

to us, it has a green colour. It is very limpid, lighter than water, of

a strong smell resembling camphor, and pungent taste like cardamoms.

When rectified the copper remains in the retort, and the oil comes over

colourless. It is used in medicine as a stimulant. See OILS ETHEREOUS.

CALAMANCO. A sort of woollen stuff of a shining appearance, chequered in

the warp, so that the checks are seen only upon one side.

CALAMINE. A native carbonate of zinc. See ZINC.

CALCAREOUS EARTH. (_Terre calcaire_, Fr.; _Kalkerde_, Germ.) Commonly

denotes lime, in any form; but, properly speaking, it is pure lime.

CALCAREOUS SPAR. Crystallized native carbonate of lime.

CALCEDONY. A hard mineral of the siliceous family, often cut into seals.

Under it may be grouped common calcedony, heliotrope, chrysoprase,

plasma, onyx, sardonyx, and sard.

CALCHANTUM. The ancient name of native copperas or sulphate of iron.

CALCINATION, is the chemical process of subjecting metallic bodies to

heat with access of air, whereby they are converted into a pulverulent

matter, somewhat like lime in appearance, called _calx_ in Latin. The

term calcination, however, is now used when any substance whatever is

exposed to a roasting heat.

CALCIUM. The metallic basis of lime. See LIME.

CALC-SINTER. The incrustations of carbonate of lime upon the ground, or

the pendulous conical pieces called stalactites, attached to the roofs

of caverns, are so called.

CALC-TUFF. A semi-hard irregular deposit of carbonate of lime, formed

from the waters of calcareous springs.

CALCULUS. The stony-looking morbid concretion, occasionally formed in

the bladder of urine, gall-bladder, cystic duct, kidneys, and other

parts of living animals. Its examination belongs to medical chemistry.

CALENDER, (_Calandre_, Fr.; _Kalander_, Germ.) a word derived from the

Greek _kalindros_ (cylinder), is the name of a machine, consisting of

two or more cylinders, revolving so nearly in contact with each other

that cloth passed through between them is smoothed, and even glazed, by

their powerful pressure. It is employed either to finish goods for the

market, or to prepare cotton and linen webs for the calico-printer, by

rendering their surfaces level, compact, and uniform. This condensation

and polish, or _satinage_, as the French call it, differ in degree

according to the object in view, and may be arranged into three distinct

series. 1. For goods which are to receive the first impression by the

block, a very strong pressure is required; for, upon the uniformity of

the polish, the neatness and regularity of the printing, and the

correspondence of its members, depend. In many establishments the calico

is passed twice through the calender before being sent to the tables. 2.

The pieces already dyed up at the madder bath, or otherwise, and which

remain to be filled in with other colours, or _grounded-in_, as it is

technically styled, must receive a much less considerable gloss. This is

a principle every where admitted and acted upon, because the outline of

the figured design being deranged by the washing, and sometimes in

consequence of the peculiar texture of the cloth, the printer, in order

to apply his grounding blocks properly, and to fit them to the contours

of the figures already impressed, is obliged to stretch the piece

sometimes in the direction of the warp, and sometimes of the weft, which

would be impossible if they had been hard glazed by the calender. 3. The

degree of glazing given to finished goods depends upon the taste of

purchasers, and the nature of the article; but it is, in general, much

less than for the first course of block-printing.

The most complete calender probably in existence is that used by some of

the eminent calico-printers of Alsace, as contrived by M. Charles

Dollfus, and constructed by MM. Witz, Blech, and Co. 1. It passes two

pieces at once, and thus does double the work of any ordinary machine.

2. It supersedes the necessity of having a workman to fold up the goods,

as they emerge from the calender, with the aid of a self-acting folder.

3. It receives, at pleasure, the finished pieces upon a roller, instead

of laying them in folds; and, by a very simple arrangement, it hinders

the hands of the workmen from being caught by the rollers.

Calenders, in consequence of the irregular demand for foreign orders and

shipments, are worked very irregularly, being sometimes overloaded with

duty, and at others altogether unemployed. A machine which can, when

required, turn out a double quantity of goods must, therefore, be a

desirable possession. For the first course of the printers, where high

calendering is necessary, the goods are usually passed twice through

between two paper cylinders, to give that equality of surface which

could not be obtained by one passage, however strong the pressure; and

therefore the simplification of this calender will prove no economy.

Besides, in order to increase the pressure to the requisite degree, the

cylinders would need to be made bulging at their middle part, and with

such cylinders common smoothing could not be given; for the pieces would

be glazed in the central line, and rough towards the edges. For pieces

already printed in part, and requiring only to be grounded-in for other

colours, the system of double effect has fewer objections, as a single

passage through the excellent calender described under BLEACHING, page

134., is found to answer very well.

The most remarkable feature of M. Dollfus’s machine is its being managed

by a single workman. Six or eight pieces are coiled upon the

feed-roller, and they are neither pasted nor stitched together, but the

ends are merely overlapped half a yard or so. The workman is careful not

to enter the second piece till one third or one half of the first one

has passed through on the other side, to prevent his being engrossed

with two ends at a time. He must, no doubt, go sometimes to the one side

and sometimes to the other of the machine to see that no folds or

creases occur, and to be ready for supplying a fresh piece as the

preceding one has gone through. The mechanism of the folder in the

Alsace machine is truly ingenious: it performs extremely well, really

saves the attendance of an extra workman, and is worthy the attention of

manufacturers intent upon economising hand labour. The lapping-roller

works by friction, and does its duty fully better than similar machines

guided by the hand.

The numerous accidents which have happened to the hands of workmen

engaged in calenders should direct the attention towards its effective

contrivance for preventing such misfortunes. These various improvements

in the Alsace machine may be easily adapted to the ordinary calenders of

almost every construction.

The folder is a kind of cage, in the shape of an inverted pyramid, shut

on the four sides, and open at top and bottom: the top orifice is about

five inches, the bottom one an inch and a half: the front and the back,

which are about four feet broad, are made of tin-plate or smooth

pasteboard, and the two sides are made of strong sheet-iron; the whole

being bolted together by small bars of iron. Upon the sheet-iron of the

sides, iron uprights are fixed, perforated with holes, through which the

whole cage is supported freely by means of studs that enter into them.

One of the uprights is longer than the other, and bears a slot with a

small knob, which, by means of the iron piece, joins the guide to the

crank of the cylinder, and thereby communicates to the cage a seesaw

movement: at the bottom extremity of the great upright, there is a piece

of iron in the shape of an anchor, which may be raised, or lowered, or

made fast, by screws.

At the ends of this anchor are friction-rollers, which may be drawn out

or pushed back and fixed by screws: these rollers lift alternately two

levers made of wood, and fixed to a wooden shaft.

The paws are also made of wood: they serve to lay down alternately the

plies of the cloth which passes upon the cage, and is folded zigzag upon

the floor, or upon a board set below the cage: a motion imparted by the

seesaw motion of the cage itself. See STRETCHING MACHINE.

To protect the fingers of the workmen, above the small plate of the

spreading-board or bar, there is another bar, which forms with the

former an angle of about 75°: they come sufficiently near together for

the opening at the summit of the angle to allow the cloth to pass

through, but not the fingers. See _Bulletin de la Société Industrielle

de Mulhausen_, No. 18.

I shall now describe, more minutely, the structure of the powerful but

less complicated calender mechanisms employed in the British

manufactories.

[Illustration: 228 229 230]

A front elevation of a four-rollered calender (five rollers are often

introduced) for glazing goods is given in _fig._ 228. _d l_ are two

pasteboard or paper cylinders, each 20 inches in diameter, whose

structure will be presently described: _f_ is a cast-iron cylinder

turned perfectly smooth (its fellow is often placed between _e_ and

_d_): it is eight inches in diameter outside, four inches inside, with

two inches thickness of metal. _e_ is another pasteboard cylinder,

fourteen inches in diameter: the strong cast-iron frame contains the

bushes in which the journals of the rollers turn. _o p_, is one of the

pair of levers for communicating a graduated pressure according to the

quality of the goods. _Fig._ 229, 230. are end views of the same machine

to show the working geer. The wheel _s_, on the end of the upper iron

cylinder, is ten inches in diameter; that on the end of the fellow iron

cylinder below (when it is present) is thirteen inches; both are

connected by the larger carrier wheel _t_. The lower wheel _u_ is one

third larger than the upper wheel, and therefore receives from the

carrier wheel _t_, a proportionally slower motion, which it imparts to

the central pasteboard roller _e_, lying upon it, causing it to move one

third more slowly than the upper pasteboard roller. Thus a sort of

sliding motion is produced, which, by rubbing their surfaces, glazes the

goods.

The iron rollers are made hollow for the purpose of admitting either a

hot roller of iron, or steam when hot calendering is required. The

other cylinders used formerly to be made of wood, but it was liable to

many defects. The advantage of the paper roller consists in its being

devoid of any tendency to split, crack, or warp, especially when exposed

to a considerable heat from the contact and pressure of the hot iron

rollers. The paper, moreover, takes a vastly finer polish, and, being of

an elastic nature, presses into every pore of the cloth, and smooths its

surface more effectually than any wooden cylinder, however truly turned,

could possibly do.

The paper cylinder is constructed as follows:--The axis of the cylinder

is a strong square bar of the best wrought iron, cut to the proper

length. Upon this bar a strong round plate of cast iron is first put,

somewhat less in diameter than the cylinder when finished. A quantity of

thick stout pasteboard is then procured, and cut into round pieces an

inch larger in diameter than the iron plate. In the centre of the

plates, and of every piece of the pasteboard, a square hole must be cut

to receive the axis; and, the circle being divided into six equal parts,

a hole must also be cut at each of the divisions, an inch or two within

the rim. These pieces of pasteboard being successively put upon the

axis, a long bolt of malleable iron, with a head at one end, and screwed

at the other, is also introduced through each of the holes near the rim;

and this is continued until a sufficient number of pasteboards are thus

placed to form a cylinder of the length required, proper allowance being

made for the compression which the pasteboard is afterwards to undergo.

Another round plate is then applied, and, nuts being put upon the

screws, the whole are screwed tight, and a cylinder formed. This

cylinder is now to be placed in a stove, exposed to a strong heat, and

must be kept there for at least several days; and, as the pasteboard

shrinks by exposure to the heat, the screws must be frequently tightened

until the whole mass has been compressed as much as possible. When the

cylinder is thus brought to a sufficient degree of density it is removed

from the stove; and, when allowed to cool, the pasteboard forms a

substance almost inconceivably dense and hard. Nothing now remains but

to turn the cylinder; and this is an operation of no slight labour and

patience. The motion in turning must be slow, not exceeding about forty

revolutions in a minute; the substance being now so hard and tough that

tools of a very small size must be used to cut, or rather scrape it,

until it is true. Three men are generally employed for the turning, even

when the motion of the cylinder is effected by mechanical power, two

being necessary to sharpen tools, for the third who turns, as quickly as

he blunts them.

Let us suppose it to be a five-rollered machine: when a person stands in

front of the calender, the cloth coming from behind above the uppermost

cylinder 1, passes between 1 and 2: proceeding behind 2, it again comes

to the front between 2 and 3: between 3 and 4 it is once more carried

behind, and, lastly, brought in front between 4 and 5, where it is

received, and smoothly folded on a clean board, or in a box, by a person

placed there for the purpose. In folding the cloth at this time, care

must be taken that it may be loosely done, so that no mark may appear

until it be again folded in the precise length and form into which the

piece is to be made up. The folding may be done either by two persons or

by one, with the aid of two sharp polished spikes placed at a proper

distance, to ascertain the length of the fold, and to make the whole

equal. When folded into lengths, it is again folded across upon a smooth

clean table, according to the shape intended, which varies with the

different kinds of goods, or the particular market for which the goods

are designed.

When the pieces have received the proper fold, the last operation

previous to packing them is the pressing. This is commonly performed by

placing a certain number of pieces, divided by thin smooth boards of

wood, in a common screw press, similar to those used by printers for

taking out the impression left by the types in the printing-press.

Besides the wooden boards, a piece of glazed pasteboard is placed above

and below every piece of cloth, that the outer folds may be as smooth

and glossy as possible. The operation of the common screw press being

found tedious and laborious, the hydraulic press is now in all well

mounted establishments had recourse to. See HYDRAULIC PRESS.

No improvements that have taken place in calendering can exceed the

power and facility of the water press: one of these presses may be

worked by two men, who can with great ease produce a pressure of 400

tons; but, in considerable establishments, the presses are worked by

power. See BANDANNA.

The appearance and finish of the goods, in consequence of such an

immense weight acting on them, are materially improved.

The press is also used for the purpose of packing; whereby the bale is

rendered much more compact than formerly. It is commonly roped, &c.,

while in this compressed state; the dimensions, are therefore, greatly

diminished from what they would otherwise be by any other method. For

instance, the same quantity of goods packed in a bale are from one third

to one half less bulky than if they were packed in a box with the utmost

force of the hands.

For lawns and muslins of a light texture, the operation of smoothing

requires a different process in some respects than close heavy fabrics.

They only require to be slightly smoothed to remove any marks which they

may have received at the bleaching; and, as their beauty depends rather

on their transparency than their closeness, the more the cylindrical

form of the yarn is preserved the better. They are therefore put through

a small machine, consisting of three rollers or cylinders; and, as the

power required to move this is small, the person who attends it

generally drives it by a small winch; or the same effect may be produced

by passing the muslins between only two or three rollers of the above

calender, lightly loaded.

In the thick fabrics of cloth, including those kinds which are used for

many parts of household furniture, as also those for female dress, the

operation of glazing is used both to add to the original beauty of the

cloth, and to render it more impervious to dust or smoke. The glazing

operation is performed entirely by the friction of any smooth substance

upon the cloth; and, to render the gloss brighter, a small quantity of

bleached wax is previously rubbed over the surface. The operation of

glazing by the common plan is very laborious, but the apparatus is of

the most simple kind. A table is mounted with a thick stout cover of

level and well-smoothed wood, forming an inclined plane; that side where

the operator stands at work being the lowest. The table is generally

placed near a wall, both for convenience in suspending the glazing

apparatus, and for the sake of light. A long piece of wood is suspended

in a groove formed between two longitudinal beams, placed parallel to

the wall, and fixed to it. The groove resembles exactly the aperture

between the shears of a common turning lathe. The lever, of which the

groove may be supposed to be the centre or fulcrum, is faced at the

bottom with a semi-cylindrical piece of finely polished flint, which

gives the friction to the cloth stretched upon the table below. Above

the flint are two cross handles, of which the operator lays hold, and

moves them backward and forward with his hands, keeping the flint

pressing slightly upon the cloth. When he has glazed a portion equal to

the breadth of the flint, he moves his lever between the shears

sidewise, and glazes a fresh part: thus he proceeds from one side or

selvage of the cloth to the other: and when all which is upon the table

is sufficiently glazed, he draws it over, and exposes a new portion to

the same operation. To preserve the cloth at a proper tension, it may be

wound smoothly upon a roller or beam, which being set so as to revolve

upon its own axis behind the table, another roller to receive the cloth

may be placed before, both being secured by a catch, acting in a ratchet

wheel. Of late years, however, a great part of the labour employed in

glazing cloth has been saved, as the common four or five bowl calender

has been altered to fit this purpose by direct pressure.

As a matter of accommodation, the different processes of packing,

cording of boxes, sheeting of trunks, and, in general, all the

arrangements preparatory to shipments, and also the intimations and

surveys necessary for obtaining drawbacks, debentures, or bounties,

according to the excise laws, are generally conducted at the calender

houses where goods are finished. These operations sufficiently account

for the general meaning attached to the word.

CALICO-PRINTING (_Impression d’Indiennes_, Fr.; _Zeugdruckerei_, Germ.)

is the art of impressing cotton cloth with topical dyes of more or less

permanence. Of late years, silk and woollen fabrics have been made the

subjects of a similar style of dyeing. Linens were formerly stained with

various coloured designs, but since the modern improvements in the

manufacture of cotton cloth they are seldom printed, as they are both

dearer, and produce less beautiful work, because flax possesses less

affinity than cotton for colouring matters.

This art is of very ancient date in India, and takes its English name

from Calicut, a district where it has been practised with great success

from time immemorial. The Egyptians, also, appear from Pliny’s testimony

to have practised at a remote era some of the most refined processes of

topical dyeing. “Robes and white veils,” says he, “are painted in Egypt

in a wonderful way. They are first imbued, not with dyes, but with

dye-absorbing drugs, by which, though they seem to be unaltered, yet,

when immersed for a little while in a cauldron of the boiling

dye-liquor, they are found to become painted. Yet, as there is only one

colour in the cauldron, it is marvellous to see many colours imparted to

the robe, in consequence of the influence of the excipient drug. Nor can

the dye be washed out. A cauldron, which would of itself merely confuse

the colours of cloths previously dyed, is thus made to impart several

pigments from a single dye-stuff, _painting as it boils_.” The last

expression _pingitque dum coquit_, is perfectly graphic and descriptive

of calico-printing.

The cotton chintz counterpanes of great size, called _pallampoors_,

which have been manufactured in Madras from the earliest ages, have in

like manner peculiar dye-absorbing drugs applied to them with the

pencil, as also wax, to protect certain parts of the surface from the

action of the dye, and are afterwards immersed in a staining liquor,

which, when wax is applied, is usually the cold indigo-vat, but without

the wax is a hot liquor similar to the Egyptian. M. Koechlin Roder, of

Mulhouse, brought home lately from India a rich collection of cloths in

this state of preparation, which I saw in the cabinet of the _Société

Industrielle_ of that interesting emporium of calico-printing. The

native implements for applying the wax and colouring bases are placed

alongside of the cloths, and form a curious picture of primeval art.

There is among other samples an ancient _pallampoor_, five French yards

long, and two and a half broad, said to be the labour of Hindoo

princesses, which must have taken a lifetime to execute. The printing

machinery of great Britain has begun to supersede, for these styles of

work, the cheapest hand labour of India.

Calico-printing has been for several hundred years practised by the

oriental methods in Asia Minor and the Levant, but it was unknown as an

English art till 1696, when a small print-ground was formed upon the

banks of the Thames, near Richmond, by a Frenchman; probably a refugee

from his own country, in consequence of the revocation of the edict of

Nantes. Some time afterwards, a considerable printing work was

established at Bromley Hall, in Essex, and several others sprung up

successively in Surrey, to supply the London shops with chintzes, their

import from India having been prohibited by act of parliament in 1700.

The silk and woollen weavers, indeed, had all along manifested the

keenest hostility to the use of printed calicoes, whether brought from

the East or made at home. In the year 1680 they mobbed the India House

in revenge for some large importations then made of the chintzes of

Malabar. They next induced the government, by incessant clamours, to

exclude altogether the beautiful robes of Calicut from the British

market. But the printed goods, imported by the English and Dutch East

India companies, found their way into this country, in spite of the

excessive penalties annexed to smuggling, and raised a new alarm among

the manufacturing population of Spitalfields. The sapient legislators of

that day, intimidated, as would appear, by the East London mobs, enacted

in 1720 an absurd sumptuary law, prohibiting the _wearing of all printed

calicoes whatsoever, either of foreign or domestic origin_. This

disgraceful enactment, worthy of the meridian of Cairo or Algiers,

proved not only a death blow to rising industry in this ingenious

department of the arts, but prevented the British ladies from attiring

themselves in the becoming drapery of Hindostan. After an oppressive

operation of ten years, this act was repealed by a partially enlightened

set of senators, who were then pleased to permit what they called

British calicoes, if made of linen warp, with merely weft of the _hated_

cotton, to be printed and worn, upon paying a duty of no less than

sixpence the square yard. Under this burden, English calico-printing

could not be expected to make a rapid progress. Accordingly, even so

lately as the year 1750, no more than 50,000 pieces of mixed stuff were

printed in Great Britain, and that chiefly in the neighbourhood of

London; whereas a single manufacturer, Mr. Coates of Manchester,

now-a-days will turn off nearly twenty times that quantity, and there

are very many others who manufacture several hundred thousand pieces per

annum. It was not till about 1766 that this art migrated into

Lancashire, where it has since taken such extraordinary development; but

it was only after 1774 that it began to be founded upon right

principles, in consequence of the repeal of that part of the act of 1730

which required the warp to be made of linen yarn. Henceforth the

printer, though still saddled with a heavy duty of 3_d._ the square

yard, was allowed to apply his colours to a homogeneous web, instead of

the mixed fabric of linen and cotton substances, which differ in their

affinities for dyes.

France pursued for some time a similar false policy with regard to

calico-printing, but she emerged sooner from the mists of manufacturing

monopoly than England. Her avowed motive was to cherish the manufacture

of flax, a native product, instead of that of cotton, a raw material,

for which prejudice urged that money had to be exported. Her intelligent

statesmen of that day, fully seventy years ago, replied, that the money

expended in the purchase of cotton was the produce of French industry,

beneficially employed, and they therefore took immediate measures to put

the cotton fabrics upon a footing of equality. Meanwhile the popular

prejudices became irritated to such a degree, by the project of

permitting the free manufacture and sale of printed cottons, that every

French town possessed of a chamber of commerce made the strongest

remonstrances against it. The Rouen deputies declared to the government,

“that the intended measure would throw its inhabitants into despair, and

make a desert of the surrounding country;” those of Lyons said, “the

news had spread terror through all its work-shops:” Tours “foresaw a

commotion likely to convulse the body of the state:” Amiens said, “that

the new law would be the grave of the manufacturing industry of France;”

and Paris declared that “her merchants came forward to bathe the throne

with their tears upon that inauspicious occasion.”

The government persisted in carrying its truly enlightened principles

into effect, and with so manifest advantage to the nation, as to warrant

the inspector-general of manufactures to make, soon afterwards, the

following appeal to those prejudiced bodies:--“Will any of you now deny

that the fabrication of printed cottons has occasioned a vast extension

of the industry of France, by giving profitable employment to a great

many hands in spinning, weaving, bleaching, and printing the colours?

Look only at the dyeing department, and say whether it has not done more

good to France in a few years than many of your other manufactures have

in a century?”

The despair of Rouen has been replaced by the most signal prosperity in

the cotton trade, and especially in printed calicoes, for the

manufacture of which it possesses 70 different establishments, producing

upwards of a million of pieces of greater average size and price than

the English. In the district of the Lower Seine, round that town, there

are 500 cotton factories of different kinds, which give employment to

118 thousand operatives of all orders, and thus procure a comfortable

livelihood to probably not less than half a million of people.

The repeal, in 1831, of the consolidated duty of 3-1/2_d._ per square

yard upon printed calicoes in Great Britain is one of the most judicious

acts of modern legislation. By the improvements in calico-printing, due

to the modern discoveries and inventions in chemistry and mechanics, the

trade had become so vast as to yield in 1830 a revenue of 2,280,000_l._

levied upon 8,596,000 of pieces, of which, however, about three fourths

were exported, with a drawback of 1,579,000_l._ 2,281,512 pieces were

consumed in that year at home. When the expenses of collection were

deducted, only 350,000_l._ found their way into the exchequer, for which

pitiful sum thousands of frauds and obstructions were committed against

the honest manufacturer. This reduction of duty enables the consumer to

get this extensive article of clothing from 50 to 80 per cent. cheaper

than before, and thus places a becoming dress within the reach of

thousands of handsome females in the humbler ranks of life. Printed

goods, which in 1795 were sold for two shillings and three-pence the

yard, may be bought at present for eight-pence. In fact a woman may now

purchase the materials of a pretty gown for two shillings. The repeal of

the tax has been no less beneficial to the fair dealers, by putting an

end to the contraband trade, formerly pursued to an extent equally

injurious to them and the revenue. It has, moreover, emancipated a

manufacture, eminently dependent upon taste, science, and dexterity,

from the venal curiosity of petty excisemen, by whom private

improvements, of great value to the inventor, were in perpetual jeopardy

of being pirated and sold to any sordid rival. The manufacturer has now

become a free agent, a master of his time, his workmen, and his

apparatus; and can print at whatever hour he may receive an order;

whereas he was formerly obliged to wait the convenience of the excise

officer, whose province it was to measure and stamp the cloth before it

could be packed,--an operation fraught with no little annoyance and

delay. Under the patronage of parliament, it was easy for needy

adventurers to buy printed calicoes, because they could raise such a sum

by drawbacks upon the export of one lot as would go far to pay for

another, and thus carry on a fraudulent system of credit, which sooner

or later merged in a disastrous bankruptcy. Meanwhile the goods thus

obtained were pushed off to some foreign markets, for which they were,

possibly, not suited, or where they produced, by their forced sales a

depreciation of all similar merchandize, ruinous to them and who meant

to pay for his wares.

The principles of calico-printing have been very profoundly studied by

many of the French manufacturers, who generally keep a chemist, who has

been educated in the Parisian schools of science, constantly at work,

making experiments upon colours in a well-mounted laboratory. In that

belonging to M. Daniel Kœchlin, of Mulhausen, there are upwards of 3000

labelled phials, filled with chemical reagents, and specimens

subservient to dyeing. The great disadvantage under which the French

printers labour is the higher price they pay for cotton fabrics, above

that paid by the English printers. It is this circumstance alone which

prevents them from becoming very formidable rivals to us in the markets

of the world. M. Barbet, deputy and mayor of Rouen, in his replies to

the ministerial commission of inquiry, rates the disadvantage proceeding

from that cause at 2 francs per piece, or about 5 per cent. in value. In

the annual report of the _Société Industrielle_ of Mulhausen, made in

December, 1833, the number of pieces printed that year in Alsace is

rated at 720,000, to which if we add 1,000,000 for the produce of the

department of the Lower Seine, and 280,000 for that of St. Quentin,

Lille, and the rest of France, we shall have for the total amount of

this manufacture 2,000,000 of pieces, equivalent to nearly 2,400,000

pieces English; for the French piece usually measures 33-1/2 aunes, = 41

yards nearly; and it is also considerably broader than the English

pieces upon an average. It is therefore probable that the home

consumption of France in printed goods is equal in quantity, and

superior in value, to that of England. With regard to the comparative

skill of the workmen in the two countries, M. Nicholas Kœchlin, deputy

of the Upper Rhine, says, that one of his foremen, who worked for a year

in a print-field in Lancashire, found little or no difference between

them in that respect. The English wages are considerably higher than the

French. The machines for multiplying production, which for some time

gave us a decided advantage, are now getting into very general use among

our neighbours. In my recent visit to Mulhausen, Rouen, and their

environs, I had an opportunity of seeing many printing establishments

mounted with all the resources of the most refined mechanisms.

The calico-printing of this country still labours under the burden of

considerable taxes upon madder and gallipoli oil, which have

counteracted the prosperity of our Turkey red styles of work, and caused

them to nourish at Elberfeld, and some other places on the continent,

whither a good deal of the English yarns are sent to be dyed, then

brought back, and manufactured into ginghams, checks, &c., or forwarded

directly thence to our Russian customers. This fact places our fiscal

laws in the same odious light as the facility of pirating printer’s

patterns with impunity does our chancery laws.

Before cloth can receive good figured impressions its surface must be

freed from fibrous down by SINGEING, and be rendered smooth by the

CALENDER. See these articles. They are next bleached, with the exception

of those destined for Turkey red. See BLEACHING and MADDER. After they

are bleached, dried, singed, and calendered, they are lapped round in

great lengths of several pieces, stitched endwise together, by means of

an apparatus called, in Manchester, a _candroy_, which bears on its

front edge a rounded iron bar, transversely grooved to the right and

left from the centre, so as to spread out the web as it is drawn over it

by the rotation of the lapping roller. See a figure of this bar

subservient to the cylinder printing-machine.

Four different methods are in use for imprinting figures upon calicoes:

the first is by small wooden blocks, on whose face the design is cut,

which are worked by hand; the second is by larger wood-cut blocks,

placed in either two or three planes, standing at right angles to each

other, called a Perrotine, from the name of its inventor; the third is

by flat copper plates, a method now almost obsolete; and the fourth is

by a system of copper cylinders, mounted in a frame of great elegance,

but no little complexity, by which two, three, four, or even five

colours may be printed on in rapid succession by the mere rotation of

the machine driven by the agency of steam or water. The productive

powers of this printing automaton are very great, amounting for some

styles to a piece in the minute, or a mile of cloth in the hour. The

fifth colour is commonly communicated by means of what is called a

surface cylinder, covered with wooden figures in bas-relief, which, by

rotation, are applied to a plane of cloth imbued with the thickened

mordants.

The hand blocks are made of sycamore or pear-tree wood, or of deal faced

with these woods, and are from two to three inches thick, nine or ten

inches long, and five broad, with a strong box handle on the back for

seizing them by. The face of the block is either carved in relief into

the desired design, like an ordinary wood-cut, or the figure is formed

by the insertion edgewise into the wood of narrow slips of flattened

copper wire. These tiny fillets, being filed level on the one edge, are

cut or bent into the proper shape, and forced into the wood by the taps

of a hammer at the traced lines of the configuration. Their upper

surfaces are now filed flat, and polished into one horizontal plane, for

the sake of equality of impression. As the slips are of equal thickness

in their whole depth, from having been made by running the wire through

between the steel cylinders of a flatting mill, the lines of the figure,

however much they get worn by use, are always equally broad as at first;

an advantage which does not belong to wood-cutting. The interstices

between the ridges thus formed are filled up with felt-stuff. Sometimes

a delicate part of the design is made by the wood-cutter, and the rest

by the insertion of copper slips.

The colouring matter, properly thickened, is spread with a flat brush,

by a child, upon fine woollen cloth, stretched in a frame over the wax

cloth head of a wooden drum or sieve, which floats inverted in a tubful

of old paste, to give it elastic buoyancy. The inverted sieve drum

should fit the paste tub pretty closely. The printer presses the face of

the block on the drum head, so as to take up the requisite quantity of

colour, applies it to the surface of the calico, extended upon a flat

table covered with a blanket, and then strikes the back of the block

with a wooden mallet, in order to transfer the impression fully to the

cloth. This is a delicate operation, requiring equal dexterity and

diligence. To print a piece of cloth 28 yards long, and 30 inches broad,

no less than 672 applications of a block, 9 inches long and 5 inches

broad, are requisite for each colour; so that if there are 3 colours, or

3 hands, as the French term it, no less than 2016 applications will be

necessary. The blocks have pin-points fixed into their corners, by means

of which they are adjusted to their positions upon the cloth, so as to

join the different parts of the design with precision. Each printer has

a colour-tub placed within reach of his right hand; and for every

different colour he must have a separate sieve. Many manufacturers cause

their blocks to be made of three layers of wood, two of them being deal

with the grain crossed to prevent warping, and the third sycamore for

engraving.

[Illustration: 231 232]

The printing shop is an oblong apartment, lighted with numerous windows

at each side, and having a solid table opposite to each window. The

table B, _fig._ 231. is formed of a strong plank of well-seasoned hard

wood, mahogany, or marble, with a surface truly plane. Its length is

about 6 feet, its breadth 2 feet, and its thickness 3, 4, or 5 inches.

It stands on strong feet, with its top about 36 inches above the floor.

At one of its ends there are two brackets C for supporting the axles of

the roller E, which carries the white calico to be printed. The hanging

rollers E are laid across joists fixed near the roof of the apartment

above the printing shop, the ceiling and floor between them being open

bar work, at least in the middle of the room. Their use is to facilitate

the exposure, and, consequently, the drying of the printed pieces, and

to prevent one figure being daubed by another. Should they come to be

all filled, the remainder of the goods must be folded lightly upon the

stool D.

The printer stretches a length of the piece upon his table A B, taking

care to place the selvage towards himself, and one inch from the edge.

He presents the block towards the end, to determine the width of its

impression, and marks this line A B, by means of his square and tracing

point. The spreader now besmears the cloth with the colour, at the

commencement, upon both sides of the sieve head; because, if not

uniformly applied, the block will take it up unequally. The printer

seizes the block in his right hand, and daubs it twice in different

directions upon the sieve cloth, then he transfers it to the calico in

the line A B, as indicated by the four points _a b c d_, corresponding

to the four pins in the corners of the block. Having done so, he takes

another daub of the colour, and makes the points _a b_ fall on _c d_, so

as to have at the second stamp _a´ b´_, covering _a b_ and _c´ d´_; and

so on, through the rest, as denoted by the accented letters. When one

table length is finished, he draws the cloth along, so as to bring a new

length in its place.

The grounding in, or re-entering (_rentrage_), of the other colours is

the next process. The blocks used for this purpose are furnished with

pin-points, so adjusted that, when they are made to coincide with the

pin-points of the former block, the design will be correct; that is to

say, the new colour will be applied in its due place upon the flower or

other figure. The points should not be allowed to touch the white cloth,

but should be made to fall upon the stem of a leaf, or some other dark

spot. These _rentrages_ are of four sorts:--1. One for the mordants, as

above; 2. one for topical colours; 3. one for the application of reds;

and, 4., one for the application of resist pastes or reserves. These

styles have superseded the old practice of pencilling.

The Perrotine is a machine for executing block-printing by mechanical

power; and it performs as much work, it is said, as 20 expert hands. I

have seen its operation, in many factories in France and Belgium, in a

very satisfactory manner; but I have reason to believe that there are

none of them as yet in this country. Three wooden blocks, from 2-1/2 to

3 feet long, according to the breadth of the cloth, and from 2 to 5

inches broad, faced with pear-tree wood, engraved in relief, are mounted

in a powerful cast-iron frame work, with their planes at right angles to

each other, so that each of them may, in succession, be brought to bear

upon the face, top, and back of a square prism of iron covered with

cloth, and fitted to revolve upon an axis between the said blocks. The

calico passes between the prism and the engraved blocks, and receives

successive impressions from them as it is successively drawn through by

a winding cylinder. The blocks are pressed against the calico through

the agency of springs, which imitate the elastic pressure of the

workman’s hand. Each block receives a coat of coloured paste from a

woollen surface, smeared after every contact with a mechanical brush.

One man, with one or two children for superintending the colour-giving

surfaces, can turn off about 30 pieces English per day, in three

colours, which is the work of fully 20 men and 20 children in block

printing by hand. It executes some styles of work to which the cylinder

machine, without the surface roller, is inadequate.

The copper-plate printing of calico is almost exactly the same as that

used for printing engravings on paper from flat plates, and being nearly

superseded by the next machine, need not be described.

[Illustration: 233]

The cylinder printing machine consists, as its name imports, of an

engraved copper cylinder, so mounted as to revolve against another

cylinder lapped in woollen cloth, and imbued with a coloured paste, from

which it derives the means of communicating coloured impressions to

pieces of calico passed over it. _Fig._ 233. will give the reader a

general idea of this elegant and expeditious plan of printing. The

pattern is engraved upon the surface of a hollow cylinder of copper, or

sometimes gun-metal, and the cylinder is forced by pressure upon a

strong iron mandrel, which serves as its turning shaft. To facilitate

the transfer of the impression from the engraving to the cotton cloth,

the latter is lapped round another large cylinder, rendered elastic by

rolls of woollen cloth, and the engraved cylinder presses the calico

against this elastic cushion, and thereby prints it as it revolves. Let

A be the engraved cylinder mounted upon its mandrel, which receives

rotatory motion by wheels on its end, connected with the steam or water

power of the factory. B is a large iron drum or roller, turning in

bearings of the end frames of the machine. Against that drum the

engraved cylinder A is pressed by weights or screws; the weights acting

steadily, by levers, upon its brass bearings. Round the drum B the

endless web of felt or blanket stuff _a a_, travels in the direction of

the arrow, being carried round along with the drum B, which again is

turned by the friction of contact with the cylinder A. _c_ represents a

clothed wooden roller, partly plunged into the thickened colour of the

trough D D. That roller is also made to bear, with a moderate force,

against A, and thus receives, by friction, in some cases, a movement of

rotation. But it is preferable to drive the roller C from the cylinder

A, by means of a system of toothed wheels attached to their ends, so

that the surface speed of the wooden or paste roller shall be somewhat

greater than that of the printing cylinder, whereby the colour will be

rubbed, as it were, into the engraved parts of the latter.

As the cylinder A is pressed upwards against B, it is obvious that the

bearers of the trough and its roller must be attached to the bearings of

the cylinder A, in order to preserve its contact with the colour-roller

C. _b_ is a sharp-edged ruler of gun-metal or steel, called the _colour

doctor_, screwed between two gun-metal stiffening bars; the edge of

which wiper is slightly pressed as a tangent upon the engraved roller A.

This ruler vibrates with a slow motion from side to side, or right to

left, so as to exercise a delicate shaving action upon the engraved

surface, as this revolves in the direction of the arrow. _c_ is another

similar sharp-edged ruler, called the _lint doctor_, whose office it is

to remove any fibres which may have come off the calico in the act of

printing, and which, if left on the engraved cylinder, would be apt to

occupy some of the lines, or at least to prevent the colour from filling

them all. This _lint doctor_ is pressed very slightly upon the cylinder

A, and has no traverse motion.

What was stated with regard to the bearers of the colour trough D,

namely, that they are connected, and moved up and down together with the

bearings of the cylinder A, may also be said of the bearers of the two

doctors.

The working of this beautiful mechanism may now be easily comprehended.

The web of calico, indicated in the figure by the letter _d_, is

introduced or carried in along with the blanket stuff _a a_, in the

direction of the arrow, and is moved onward by the pressure of the

revolving cylinder A, so as to receive the impression of the pattern

engraved on that cylinder.

Before proceeding to describe the more complex calico-machine which

prints upon cloth, 3, 4, or 5 colours at one operation, by the rotation

of so many cylinders, I shall explain the modern methods of engraving

the cylinder, which I am enabled to do by the courtesy of Mr. Locket, of

Manchester, an artist of great ingenuity in this department, who

politely allowed me to inspect the admirable apparatus and arrangements

of his factory.

To engrave a copper cylinder 3 or 4 inches in diameter, and from 30 to

36 inches long with the multitude of minute figures which exist in many

patterns, would be a very laborious and expensive operation. The happy

invention made by Mr. Jacob Perkins, in America, for transferring

engravings from one surface to another by means of steel roller dies,

was with great judgment applied by Mr. Locket to calico-printing, so

long ago as the year 1808, before the first inventor came to Europe with

the plan. The pattern is first drawn upon a scale of about 3 inches

square, so that this size of figure being repeated a definite number of

times, will cover the cylinder. This pattern is next engraved in

intaglio upon a roller of softened steel, about 1 inch in diameter, and

3 inches long, so that it will exactly occupy its surface. The engraver

aids his eye with a lens, when employed at this delicate work. This

roller is hardened by heating it to a cherry-red in an iron case

containing pounded bone-ash, and then plunging it into cold water; its

surface being protected from oxidizement by a chalky paste. This

hardened roller is put into a press of a peculiar construction, where,

by a rotatory pressure, it transfers its design to a similar roller in

the soft state; and as the former was in intaglio, the latter must be in

relievo. This second roller being hardened, and placed in an appropriate

volutory press, is employed to engrave by indentation upon the

full-sized copper cylinder, the whole of its intended pattern. The first

roller engraved by hand is called the _die_; the second, obtained from

it by a process like that of a milling tool, is called the _mill_. By

this indentation and multiplication system, an engraved cylinder may be

had for seven pounds, which engraved by hand would cost fifty or

upwards. The restoration of a worn-out cylinder becomes extremely easy

in this way; the mill being preserved, need merely be properly rolled

over the copper surface again.

At other times, the hard roller _die_ is placed in the upper bed of a

screw press, not unlike that for coining, while the horizontal bed below

is made to move upon strong rollers mounted in a rectangular iron frame.

In the middle of that bed a smooth cake or flat disc of very soft iron,

about 1 inch thick, and 3 or 4 inches in diameter, is made fast by four

horizontal adjusting screws, that work in studs of the bed frame. The

_die_ being now brought down by a powerful screw, worked by toothed

wheel-work, and made to press with force upon the iron cake, the bed is

moved backwards and forwards, causing the roller to revolve on its axles

by friction, and to impart its design to the cake. This iron disc is now

case-hardened by being ignited amidst horn shavings in a box, and then

suddenly quenched in water, when it becomes itself a die in relievo.

This disc die is fixed in the upper part of a screw press with its

engraved face downwards, yet so as to be movable horizontally by

traverse screws. Beneath this inverted bed, sustained at its upper

surface by friction-rollers, a copper cylinder 30 inches long, or

thereby, is mounted horizontally upon a strong iron mandrel, furnished

with toothed wheels at one of its ends, to communicate to it a movement

upon its axis through any aliquot arcs of the circle. The disc die being

now brought down to bear upon the copper cylinder, this is turned round

through an arc corresponding in length to the length of the die; and

thus, by the steady downward pressure of the screw, combined with the

revolution of the cylinder, the transfer of the engraving is made in

intaglio. This is I believe the most convenient process for engraving,

by transfer, the copper of a one-cylinder machine. But when 2, 3, or 4

cylinders are to be engraved with the same pattern for a two, three, or

four-coloured machine, the die and the mill roller plan of transfer is

adopted. In this case, the hardened roller die is mounted in the upper

bed of the transfer press, in such a way as to be capable of rotation

round its axis, and a similar roller of softened steel is similarly

placed in the under bed. The rollers are now made to bear on each other

by the action of the upper screw, and while in hard contact, the lower

one is caused to revolve, which, carrying round the upper by friction,

receives from it the figured impression in relief. When cylinders for a

three-coloured machine are wanted, three such _mills_ are made

fac-similes of each other; and the prominent parts of the figure which

belong to the other two copper cylinders are filed off in each one

respectively. Thus three differently figured _mills_ are very readily

formed, each adapted to engrave its particular figure upon a distinct

copper cylinder.

Some copper cylinders for peculiar styles are not graved by indentation,

as just described, but etched by a diamond point, which is moved by

mechanism in the most curious variety of configurations, while the

cylinder slowly revolves in a horizontal line beneath it. The result is

extremely beautiful, but it would require a very elaborate set of

drawings to represent the machinery by which Mr. Locket produces it. The

copper is covered by a resist varnish while being heated by the

transmission of steam through its axis. After being etched, it is

suspended horizontally by the ends, for about five minutes, in an oblong

trough charged with dilute nitric acid.

With regard to the two and three-coloured machines, we must observe,

that as the calico in passing between the cylinders is stretched

laterally from the central line of the web, the figures engraved upon

the cylinders must be proportionally shortened, in their lateral

dimensions especially, for the first and second cylinder.

Cylinder printing, though a Scotch invention, has received its wonderful

development in England, and does the greatest honour to this country.

The economy of labour introduced by these machines is truly marvellous;

one of them, under the guidance of a man to regulate the rollers, and

the service of a boy, to supply the colour troughs, being capable of

printing as many pieces as nearly 200 men and boys could do with blocks.

The perfection of the engraving is most honourable to our artisans. The

French with all their ingenuity and neat-handedness can produce nothing

approaching in excellence to the engraved cylinders of Manchester,--a

painful admission, universally made to me by every eminent manufacturer

in Alsace, whom I visited in my late tour.

Another modification of cylinder printing, is that with wooden rollers

cut in relief: it is called _surface printing_, probably because the

thickened colour is applied to a tense surface of woollen cloth, from

which the roller takes it up by revolving in contact with the cloth.

When the copper cylinders, and the wooden ones, are combined in one

apparatus, it has got the appropriate name of the _union_ printing

machine.

In mounting three or more cylinders in one frame, many more adjustments

become necessary than those described above. The first and most

important is that which ensures the correspondence between the parts of

the figures in the successive printing rollers, for unless those of the

second and subsequent engraved cylinders be accurately inserted into

their respective places, a confused pattern would be produced upon the

cloth as it advances round the pressure cylinder B, _figs._ 233, 234.

Each cylinder must have a forward adjustment in the direction of

rotation round its axis, so as to bring the patterns into correspondence

with each other in the length of the piece; and also a lateral or

traverse adjustment in the line of its axis, to effect the

correspondence of the figures across the piece; and thus, by both

together, each cylinder may be made to work symmetrically with its

fellows.

[Illustration: 234]

_Fig._ 234. is a cross section of a four-colour cylinder machine, by

which the working parts are clearly illustrated.

A A A is a part of the two strong iron frames or cheeks, in which the

various rollers are mounted. They are bound together by the rods and

bolts _a a a a_.

B is the large iron pressure cylinder, which rests with its gudgeons in

bearings or bushes, which can be shifted up and down in slots of the

side cheeks A A. These bushes are suspended from powerful screws _b_,

which turn in brass nuts, made fast to the top of the frame A, as is

plainly shown in the figure. These screws serve to counteract the strong

pressure applied beneath that cylinder, by the engraved cylinders D E.

C D E F are the four printing cylinders, named in the order of their

operation. They consist of strong tubes of copper or gun-metal, forcibly

thrust by a screw press upon the iron mandrels, round which as shafts

they revolve.

The first and last cylinder C and F are mounted in brass bearings, which

may be shifted in horizontal slots of the frame A. The pressure roller

B, against whose surface they bear with a very little obliquity

downwards, may be nicely adjusted to that pressure by its elevating and

depressing screws. By this means C and F can be adjusted to B with

geometrical precision, and made to press it in truly opposite

directions.

The bearings of the cylinders D and E are lodged also in slots of the

frame A, which point obliquely upwards, towards the centre of B. The

pressure of these two print cylinders C and F is produced by two screws

_c_ and _d_, which work in brass nuts, made fast to the frame, and very

visible in the figure. The frame-work in which these bearings and screws

are placed, has a curvilinear form, in order to permit the cylinders to

be readily removed and replaced; and also to introduce a certain degree

of elasticity. Hence the pressure applied to the cylinders C and F,

partakes of the nature of a spring; a circumstance essential to their

working smoothly, on account of the occasional inequalities in the

thickness of the felt web and the calico.

The pressure upon the other two print cylinders D and E is produced by

weights acting with levers against the bearings. The bearings of D are,

at each of their ends, acted upon by cylindrical rods, which slide in

long tubular bosses of the frame, and press with their nuts _g_ at their

under end upon the small arms of two strong levers G, which lie on each

side of the machine, and whose fulcrum is at _h_ (in the lower corner at

the left hand). The long arms of these levers G, are loaded with weights

H, whereby they are made to press up against the bearings of the roller

D, with any degree of force, by screwing up the nut _g_, and hanging on

the requisite weights.

The manner in which the cylinder E is pressed up against B, is by a

similar construction to that just described. With each of its bearings,

there is connected by the link _k_, a curved lever I, whose fulcrum or

centre of motion is at the bolt _l_. To the outer end of this lever, a

screw, _m_, is attached, which presses downwards upon the link _n_,

connected with the small arm of the strong lever _k_, whose centre of

motion is at _o_. By turning therefore the screw _m_, the weight L, laid

upon the end of the long arm of the lever K (of which there is one upon

each side of the machine), may be made to act or not at pleasure upon

the bearings of the cylinder E.

In tracing the operation of this exquisite printing machine, we shall

begin with the first engraved cylinder C. Its bearings or bushes shift,

as was already stated, in slots of the frame A. Each of them consists of

a round piece of iron, to which the end of the screw _c_ is joined, in

the same way as at _d_, in the opposite side. In each of these iron

bearings, a concave brass is inserted to support the collar of the

shaft, and in a dovetailed slit of this brass, a sliding piece is

fitted, upon which a set or adjusting screw in the iron bearing acts,

and which, being forced against the copper cylinder C, serves to adjust

the line of its axis, and to keep it steady between its bearings, and

true in its rotatory motion. Upon the iron bearing a plate is screwed,

provided with two flanges, which support the colour trough _q_, and the

colour roller M. This trough, as well as the others to be mentioned

presently, is made of sheet copper in the sides and bottom, and fixed

upon a board; but its ends are made of plates of cast copper or

gun-metal to serve as bearings to the colour roller M. The trough and

its roller may be shifted both together into contact with the printing

cylinder C, by means of the screw _r_. Near _s_, seen above the roller,

C, and _t_ below it, are sections of the two doctors, which keep the

engraved cylinders in sound working condition; the former being the

colour doctor, and the latter the lint doctor. Their ends lie in

brasses, which may be adjusted by the screws _u_ and V, working in the

respective brackets, which carry their brasses, and are made fast to the

iron bearings of the cylinder.

The pressure of the colour doctor is produced by two weights _w_ (see

high up on the frame work), which act on a pair of small levers _x_,

(one on each side of the machine,) and thus, by means of the chains,

tend to lift the arms _y_, attached to the end axles of the doctor. The

pressure of the lint doctor upon the cylinder C, is performed by the

screw _z_, pressing upon an arm which projects downwards, and is

attached to the axle of that doctor.

The bearings of the second printing cylinder D, consist at each end of a

mass of iron (removed in the drawing to show the mechanism below it),

which shifts in the slanting slot of the frame A. In each of these

masses there is another piece of iron, which slides in the transverse

direction, and may be shifted by the adjusting screw _a´_ fixed to it,

and working in a nut cast upon the principal bearing above described. To

the inner bearings, which carry the brasses in which the shaft lies, are

screwed the two curved arms _b´ b´_ to which are attached the bearings,

&c., for the colour trough, and the doctors. In these brasses there are

also dovetailed pieces, which slide and are pressed by set screws

furnished with square heads in the iron secondary bearings, which serve,

as before said, to adjust the printing cylinder in the line of its axis,

while other screws adjust the distance of the cloth upon which the

second colour is printed, and the line of contact with the cylinder B.

N, is the colour roller of D, and _d´_ the colour trough, which rests by

its board upon the lever _e´_; whose centres of motion _f´_, are made

fast to the curved arms _b´_, fixed at the bearings of the cylinder,

and whose ends are suspended by screws _g´_; whereby the colour roller

N, may be pressed with greater or less force to the cylinder D. _h´_ and

_i´_ are the two doctors of this cylinder; the former being the colour,

the latter the lint doctor. They rest, as was said of the cylinder C, in

brasses which are adjustable by means of screws, that work in the studs

or brackets by which the brasses are supported. These brackets must of

course be screwed to the secondary bearing-pieces, in order that they

may keep their position, into whatever direction the bearings may be

shifted. _k´_ and _l´_ are these set screws for the colour and lint

doctors. The pressure of the former upon the cylinder D, is produced by

weights _m´_, acting upon levers _n´_, and pressing by rods or links

_o´_, upon arms attached to each end of the axis of the doctor. (See the

left hand side of the figure near the bottom). The lint-doctor _i´_, is

pressed in a similar way at the other side upon the cylinder D, by the

weights acting upon levers _p´_, and by rods _q´_ upon arms fixed at

each end of the axis of the doctor.

The bearings of the third printing cylinder E, are of exactly the same

construction as that above described, and therefore require no

particular detail. The lint doctor _s_, is here pressed upon the

engraved cylinder by screws _t´_, working in the ends of studs or arms

fixed upon each end of the axis of the doctor, and pressing upon flanges

cast upon the brackets in which the brasses of the doctor’s axis lie,

which are made fast to the bearings of the cylinder E.

The bearings of the fourth copper cylinder F, are also constructed in a

similar way. Each consists of a first bearing, to which is joined the

end of the screw _d_, by which it is made to slide in a slot of the

frame. Another bearing, which contains the brass for the shaft of the

cylinder, can be shifted up and down in a transverse direction by a

screw _z´_, of the second bearing, working in a nut cast upon the first

bearing. To this secondary bearing, plates are made fast by the screws

_v´ v´_ to the inside, to carry the studs or brackets of the doctors

_x´_ and _y´_. In the brasses of the cylinder shaft, dovetailed pieces

are made to slide, being pressed by set screws _w´_, against the

engraved cylinder F, similar to what has been described for adjusting

the cylinders to one another. This cylinder has no separate colour

roller, nor trough, properly speaking, but the colour doctor _y´_ is

made concave to serve the purpose of a trough in supplying the engraved

lines of the cylinder with colour. With this view the top plate of the

doctor is curved to contain the coloured paste, and it is shut up at the

ends by pieces of wood made to fit the curvature of the doctor. Its

pressure against the engraved surface is produced by weights _a´´_,

acting at the ends of arms _b´´_, attached to the ends of the axis of

the doctor. The pressure of the lint doctor _x´_ is given by screws

_c´´_, working in arms attached to the ends of the axis of the doctor,

and pressing upon the flanges _d´´_, cast upon the brackets which carry

the brasses for the axis of the doctor. These brasses are themselves

adjustable, like those of all the other cylinders, by set screws in the

brackets, which work in the nuts formed in the brasses.

_e´´ e´´_, is the endless web of felt stuff which goes round the

cylinder B, and constitutes the soft elastic surface upon which the

printing cylinders C, D, E, and F exercise their pressure. This endless

felt is passed over a set of rollers at a certain distance from the

machine, to give opportunity for the drying up of any colouring paste

which it may have imbibed from the calico in the course of the

impressions. In its return to the machine in the direction of the arrow,

it is led over a guide roller _o_, which is thereby made to revolve.

Upon the two ends of this, and outside of the bearings which are fixed

upon the tops of the frame A, are two eccentrics, one of which serves to

give a vibratory traverse movement to the colour doctors _s´_, _h´_, and

_r´_ of the three cylinders, C, D, and E whilst the other causes the

colour doctor _y´_ of the cylinder F, to make lateral vibrations.

[Illustration: 235]

Q is one of a pair of cast-iron brackets, screwed on at the back of the

side-frames or cheeks A A, to carry the roller filled with white calico

R, ready for the printing operations. Upon the end of the shaft whereon

the calico is coiled, a pulley is fixed, over which a rope passes

suspending a weight in order to produce friction, and thereby resistance

to the action which tends to unwind the calico. In winding it upon that

and similar rollers, the calico is smoothed and expanded in breadth by

being passed over one or more grooved rods, or over a wooden bar S,

_fig._ 235. the surface of which is covered with wire, so as to have the

appearance of a united right and left-handed screw. By this device, the

calico, folded or creased at any part, is stretched laterally from the

centre, and made level. It then passes over the guide-roller _o_, where

it comes upon the surface of the felt _e´´ e´´_, and thence proceeds

under its guidance to the series of printing cylinders.

Three and four-colour machines, similar to the above, are now at work in

many establishments in Lancashire, which will turn off a piece of 28

yards per minute, each of the three or four cylinders applying its

peculiar part of the pattern to the cloth as it passes along, by

ceaseless rotation of the unwearied wheels. At this rate, the

astonishing length of one mile of many-coloured web is printed with

elegant flowers and other figures in an hour. When we call to mind how

much knowledge and skill are involved in this process, we may fairly

consider it as the greatest achievement of chemical and mechanical

science.

Before entering upon the different styles of work which constitute

calico printing, I shall treat, in the first place, of what is common to

them all, namely, the thickening of the mordants and colours. This is an

operation of the greatest importance towards the successful practice of

the art. Several circumstances may require the consistence of the

thickening to be varied; such as the nature of the mordant, its density,

and its acidity. A strong acid mordant cannot be easily thickened with

starch; but it may be by roasted starch, vulgarly called British gum,

and by gum arabic or senegal. Some mordants which seem sufficiently

inspissated with starch, liquefy in the course of a few days; and being

apt to run in the printing-on make blotted work. In France, this evil is

readily obviated, by adding one ounce of spirits of wine to half a

gallon of colour; a remedy which the English excise duties render too

costly.

The very same mordant, when inspissated to different degrees, produces

different tints in the dye-copper; a difference due to the increased

bulk from the thickening substance; thus, the same mordant, thickened

with starch, furnishes a darker shade than when thickened with gum. Yet

there are circumstances in which the latter is preferred, because it

communicates more transparency to the dyes, and because, in spite of the

washing, more or less of the starch always sticks to the mordant. The

gum has the inconvenience, however, of drying too speedily, and of also

increasing too much the volume of the mordants; by both of which causes

it obstructs their combination with the stuff, and the tints become thin

or scratchy.

A Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines containing a clear exposition of their principles and practice · 第 41 / 421 题