A mountain-track, leaving the road at Bayal, leads southward over a

series of parallel ridges of increasing height and grandeur[71] directly

for Bulghar-Madên. The silver mines, to which the place owes its name

and probably its being, seem to have been considerably worked in

ancient times. The village is found deep in a valley under the Bulghar

Dagh, a chief range of Taurus, nearly nine thousand feet in height.

The stream rises far up the ridge, from the opposite side of which a

branch of the Kodja Su flows down towards Ivrîz and Eregli. Its course

is eastward, and as it dashes down its rocky bed it is already, when

passing Bulghar-Madên, nearly three thousand feet below the snow-splashed

crags along the base of which it flows. From there the valley, though

narrow and steep-sided, assumes the verdant and enchanting beauty that

ever dwells by mountain-streams, lending character to a large portion

of the Hittites’ country. But to the traveller following in summer-time

the track that winds down the left bank of the river, this beauty and

enchantment is intensified here by the vast setting of the picture, by

its fulness and variety of detail and rich contrasts of colours, combined

with the movement and variegated costumes of the people that mingle in

the scene. The banks are fruit-gardens, and wildflowers of varied sorts

carpet the ground with splendour. Vines and mulberries are in profusion;

and ripe cherries may be plucked even from the saddle, their bright

clusters mottling everywhere the dark green foliage. Below, the swirling

waters, seen at intervals, contribute also their harmonious changes,

being white and gleaming where played on by the bright sunlight, and

again clear green in the deeper pools and shaded places. From among

the trees, the bright colours prevailing in Turkish costumes, reds and

blues, yellow and white, add to the effect; for the whole population of

the scattered hamlets, men and women, boys and girls, are in the gardens

or beneath the trees. At one place may be seen an aged couple bending

side by side at their work upon their tiny plot of land. Below, under a

spreading tree, against the stem of which he leans, a bare-legged boy is

piping his reed flutes, as Marsyas did, while boys and girls stand near

in groups talking and at play. Beyond, out of sight of these, upon a

sand-and-pebble beach two little boys, quite naked, are dancing merrily

by themselves to the distant music. In the background rises the immense

wall of mountain: its lower slopes are thickly wooded with larch and

pines, giving way in the middle heights to scrub oak, which continues

to struggle upward until the bleak rock appears. Overhead a curious

phenomenon tempers the heat of noon-day in this happy valley, especially

on windless days when its beneficence is most appreciated. Towards

mid-day a mist, arising probably from the melting of the snows upon the

ridge, spreads over the valley like a canopy, and so it remains until

as the afternoon wears on the vapour re-condenses, and the bright sun

reappears to cheer the evening. Except for this peculiarity the valley

resembles in general many of those innumerable sheltered rifts among

the Taurus and Anti-Taurus Mountains, wherein the rigour of winter is

recompensed by the bounteous summer, and the scattered population pursues

its life, isolated from and almost independent of the moving world.

[Illustration: PLATE XX

APPROACHING THE CILICIAN GATES FROM THE NORTH (_See p. 46._)]

Where this mountain-stream unites with the Chakia Su a bridge carries

the track across to the other bank to join equally the main road to the

South. This is the historic route leading through the Cilician Gates, the

only pass available for traffic through the unbroken rock wall of Taurus.

Peoples have passed through it that have formed nations; the armies of

conquerors have traversed it in the struggle of continents; religions

from the East have made it their channel of approach towards the

unthinking West; Paul of Tarsus travelled through it bringing the Cross

of Peace; and through it the Crusaders took back in due time the Cross

of War. Makers of history—Persian, Greek, and Macedonian; Christian,

Jew, and Moslem, all have passed this way. The nicely engineered road,

however, with its bridges and embankments, its rock-cuttings and eased

gradients, is a work of modern times. At the opening of our story we

must look back to the beginnings of the pass in a rough track alongside

the rushing stream. Even in early Hittite times, if we pay regard to

the disposition of their monuments, it seems probable that the longer

but more open route that follows the Tochma Su, and the shorter but

rocky track that descends by Kuru-Bel, continued to be the chief lines

of communication between the two main branches of their empire.[72]

Previous, however, to Persian times the road through the Cilician Gates

must have been sufficiently arranged to enable a wheeled cart or chariot

to pass that way.[73]

The route may be divided into main sections, the first reaching as far

as Bozanti Han. In this portion, which may be regarded as the northern

approach to the Cilician Gates, the scenery gradually attains all the

beauties of a deep mountain-pass. The steep slopes of the valley are clad

with the dense growth of pines, mixed freely with oak and cypress, and

other trees of varying foliage. In places the bare rock protrudes and

towers aloft precipitously, with sharp peaks reaching to the snow-line.

Ever and again a more open glade, or the widening of the wooded valley

where the river is joined by other waters, adds pleasing variety to the

journey, and brings into greater prominence the boldness and beauty of

the views. At one place, visible by a short détour, there burst out of

the rock the clear dark waters called appropriately Kara Su, changing the

colour of the entire river. Several ‘Hans’[74] are passed and bridges

crossed before nearing Bozanti; and hereabouts the river, with which

the road has descended thus far, enters a rocky and precipitous defile

through which it rushes to the plain. Avoiding this, the route crosses a

low divide, and descends upon an arm of another river, the Cydnus, which

leads down eventually to Tarsus and the sea. For a short way in this

second section of the route the country is more open, but the enchantment

of it is maintained in the wooded highland landscapes, with views of the

dark green slopes of rugged Taurus and the snowy crest and crevices of

Bulghar Dagh. Two well-placed ornamental forts[75] are passed, and the

winding road, when seemingly faced by an impenetrable ridge of mountain,

enters suddenly a deep rocky gorge. The spot is marked by an inscription

of Marcus Aurelius on a rock in the river’s bed. This is the veritable

Gate of Cilicia. A double door would close it and defy an army.

[Illustration: PLATE XXI

ENTRANCE OF THE CILICIAN GATES]

In keeping with its momentous history, the scenery as the descent

continues at once assumes a wild and impressive grandeur, unparalleled

in beauty, passing description, to which all that has passed before

served but as introduction. Now the keynote is changed, and Nature’s full

orchestra breaks forth into a theme of violent and majestic discords,

ever changing yet sustained, leaving for ever the impression of its grand

harmonies. Here the crags tower up a thousand feet on either side. A

myriad trees, their varied tones intensified by the glowing sunlight,

clothe with soft colours the heights that hem in the horizon save where

it is broken by fantastic peaks. Now the valley is torn by great rifts

of red and grey rock, and warning precipices of prodigious character

overhang the pathway. Below, on a verdant bed bedecked with flowers and

creepers, peaceful glades and vistas disclose the chequered waters of the

stream. Another turn, and a broad sweep of virgin forest lines the slopes

in an unbroken curve; and ever and again Nature’s panorama changes,

attracting the eye to some fresh beauty or surprise.

Though seemingly inaccessible, yet up in the wooded heights here and

there a small village may be found, its houses nestling among fruit-trees

and luxurious wildflowers. The people are very poor, for on these broken

hilltops arable spots are scarce and difficult to work. They are also

reticent and unsophisticated, and it is impossible to obtain from them

any consistent reason as to their choice of dwelling-place while so many

miles of corn-land in the interior await man’s labour. And since the

bracing mountain air amid the pines, and the unique views all round,

which extend beyond Tarsus to the sea, are to them considerations of

last importance, we are left to conjecture in this case also that their

ancestors found refuge here from the political storms of an unknown date.

We are inclined to believe that this was the reason, and that the date

was remote, because of the survival amongst them in striking purity of

a type of the old Hittite races which, though peculiar, is familiar on

the Egyptian monuments. It may indeed have been that of the Cilicians

in general: it is strongly mongoloid in appearance except for the nose,

which is strong and straight, but fine. The chin is beardless, but there

is a thin dark cynical moustache; the cheek-bones are high and the eyes

oblique. In the Egyptian sculptures a pigtail usually completes the

striking features of the portrait, but this seems not to have survived

the Moslem tonsure.

Once through the pass the whole character of the country changes as

by a magician’s wand and another land unfolds itself. The bracing dry

uplands are left behind with their peculiar fascination and unrealised

possibilities, and in their place there appear the palm-trees and

fruit-gardens of a southern clime, with physical peculiarities, economy,

and population entirely different. The western plain of Cilicia is

entirely alluvial soil, and is well called the fruit-garden of Western

Asia. Towards the east there are some hilly places, but to the north-east

the plain stretches out again, following an inland bay of the mountains.

These plains seem to be wholly the gift of the numerous rivers which

water them. These, descending from the mountainous region above, wherein

the nature of the stone is various and to a large extent volcanic, bring

down with them the rich alluvium which is deposited in their sluggish

course below. Their names have been already mentioned. Some further

streams to the west have a swifter course from the mountains which in

that direction gradually approach the sea. Mersina, the modern port,

marks almost the western extremity of the plain.

[Illustration: PLATE XXII

GOING SOUTH THROUGH THE CILICIAN GATES

TARSUS: THE GARDENS AND THE TOWN]

The green tract of Cilicia is so shut in to the north by the Taurus

ranges, and to the east by the Amanus mountains, and so exposed to the

sea, that it seems as if Nature had designed this unique corner of Asia

Minor for a history of its own. Its remarkable fertility, however, and

the important passes which lead down to it in several directions, make it

impossible that it could have been overlooked by any power in possession

of its frontiers. For this reason, and in this instance, the absence of

any clearly Hittite remains[76] must be attributed to accident and to the

nature of the country. But it is indeed remarkable that in none of the

defiles that connect it with the several portions of the Hittite land has

a single Hittite monument been discovered. When we consider how suitable

many spots would seem to be for Hittite monuments, whether in the

Cilician Gates, or in the valley of the Pyramus, or in the pass leading

by Bogche over the Amanus mountains eastward, or on the wave-washed rocks

which must be crossed by the coast route to Alexandretta, this absence

of any Hittite trace becomes the more conspicuous and significant. It

establishes the probability towards which we have been already drawn,

that the main channel of communication between the lands of the Hittites

in the north of Syria and in Asia Minor was by way of the mountain

passes of the Taurus and Anti-Taurus where their monuments are found in

comparative plenty.

[Illustration: PLATE XXIII

TARSUS: THE CONCRETE WALLS OF DUNUK TASH

TARSUS: SACRED STONE IN A COFFIN, IN THE COURT OF AN ARAB SHRINE]

II

SOME PAGES OF HISTORY

In this chapter we take a passing glance at the history of the Hittite

lands after the Hittite power had passed, down to the establishment of

the Seljûk Turks in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries A.D. It is not a

connected story, for with the disappearance of the Hittites the political

horizon changed: thereafter the balance of power in the Near East was

several times distributed anew. We must therefore be content to sketch

an outline of the general course of eventful history in which the lands

subsequently shared, and to note in what manner, but not to what extent,

the local records and monuments are evidence of the parts they severally

played.

We are compelled to make these limitations, for no land on earth can

claim a history so momentous as the drama that was worked out in Asia

Minor during the centuries that followed the Hittite domination. Here was

the scene of a long struggle for supremacy both among its own peoples and

between the adjoining portions of the two continents which it connects;

a thousand _Iliads_ would do scant justice to the deeds of arms alone.

And the struggle of the continents was not merely for the possession of

a land itself rich in minerals and for the most part highly fertile, but

for a passage-way for great migrations, civilisations, and religions.

To this story we have nothing to contribute, no new evidence to bring

forward, no new opinions to maintain; the history of Asia Minor has been

written by pens more able and more competent to deal with it.[77] In

introducing these few pages our object is to subserve our main inquiry:

to enable us to distinguish between the works of the various phases of

history that we meet with in our wanderings, and especially to appreciate

by contrast the peculiarities of the Hittite monuments which we shall

next consider.

Though we defer writing the story of the Hittites until we have seen

what their own works can tell us, we find ourselves obliged to trace

its outline[78] in order to decide at what point that story ends. The

Hittites first appear in history about 2000 B.C., when it would appear

that they were already powerful enough to overturn the first dynasty of

Babylon and sack that city, and that they had settlements in southern

Syria on the frontiers of Egypt. Certain Hittite tablets from Central

Asia Minor are said to belong to the same age. Nothing is known, however,

of the constitution of the Hittites in these early times; but it may

be inferred that they subsequently retired from the south or were

there submerged. It is not until the fifteenth century B.C. that the

name of the Hittites definitely reappears, when successive expeditions

of the Pharaohs encountered them in the north of Syria. Then in the

fourteenth century their capital is found at Boghaz-Keui, in the ruins

of which their archives of this period have been recently unearthed.

These, supplemented by the Tell-el-Amarna letters, tell how the King

of the ‘Hatti’—the local and at that time dominant element—became

Great King of the Hittite confederated peoples and vassal states,

whose chief towns included most of the sites identified with Hittite

remains, like Hamath, Aleppo, Carchemish, Marash, Malatia, and many

city-states as yet unidentified. This was the period of their greatest

empire, and it is probable that the regions of Cilicia, Lycaonia,

Phrygia, and even Lydia at this time acknowledged the suzerainty of the

all-powerful soldier-king. For five or six generations of the Hatti

rulers the position of the Hittites as a dominant power in Western Asia

was recognised by the Pharaohs and the Kings of Babylon, both in their

letters and treaties and by the exchange of ambassadors. During the great

migrations of the twelfth century B.C., however, it would seem that

the Hatti dynasty was overthrown and the Hittite empire dismembered.

This may be inferred from the cessation of their own archives and

from the appearance of the Muski, identified in later times with the

Phrygians,[79] upon the north-west frontier of Assyria,[80] having thus

fought their way across the heart of Asia Minor. These were repulsed,[81]

but this incursion was contemporaneous with a shifting of the chief

Hittite power to Carchemish, while Hamath on the Orontes and other

southern centres come into increased prominence.

In trying to work out the story of the decline and fall of the Hittite

power, we are faced with the same difficulty that enshrouded the whole

problem of the Hittites until recent discoveries shed the light of

internal documentary evidence upon the period of their empire—namely,

that for the most part only the events connected with certain of their

frontier lands came at all within the horizon of the Assyrian and the

Greek historians, and these are seen by us with relative disproportion.

To take a single illustration, we fail to find in the Egyptian and

Assyrian records any suggestion as to the position of the Hittite capital

of the fourteenth century at Boghaz-Keui; and for more than seven hundred

years we are without any direct evidence as to its fortunes, until a

chance reference by Herodotus in describing the affairs of Lydia tells us

of its final overthrow.

In the tenth century, however, during the temporary decline of Assyria

and the withdrawal of the Phrygians, the Hittite states may be inferred

to have largely recovered their power and independence. But though there

were frequent alliances between neighbouring states, there does not

seem to have been any over-lord, as of old, powerful enough to unite

them all under his leadership and to maintain a consistent policy.

Malatia and Marash appear as the chief cities of kingdoms in Taurus,

while in the Anti-Taurus the kingdom of Tabal (or Tubal) probably

included the districts of Komana, Ekrek, Mazaca, and Fraktin. On the

plateau the kingdom of the Khilakku, which we may call Greater Cilicia

(embracing the region from Tyana to the Kara Dagh, and from Karaburna to

Bulghar-Madên), replaced the original state of Hatti within the Halys as

chief representative of Hittite power and tradition. But it was not for

long: if the Muski had retreated it was only to gather strength; while in

the east a new rival, of force and character similar to the Hittites, had

appeared in the region of Lake Van, pressing down to the Euphrates and

even into Syria, where also the steady infiltration of Aramæan peoples

was already challenging the dominance of the old Hittite stock.

From the middle of the ninth century also the struggles of the weakening

Hittite tribes against the reviving power of Assyria were renewed; and

this time they were doomed. Their lands of Syria and in the Taurus were

thereafter the objective of many punitive expeditions on the part of

successive Assyrian kings, who claim always to have conquered and exacted

tribute. For over a century, however, though many times defeated and

severely punished, these states as often found opportunity for casting

off the yoke. But Sargon, late in the eighth century, adopted with

stern determination the policy which his predecessors had initiated, of

transporting large numbers of the rebellious population and replacing

them by Assyrian colonists. One by one the greater Hittite centres on

his frontiers were absorbed, and when the Assyrian forces passed into

Asia Minor to challenge the supremacy of the Phrygian Midas, about 718

B.C., it is clear that these two powers had divided the Hittite territory

between them. The appearance, too, in the north, of the Cimmerians, in

wellnigh irresistible strength, had changed the political horizon.[82]

From one point of view, however, it would be natural to point to the

destruction of Pteria by Crœsus, in the middle of the sixth century B.C.,

as the last event of Hittite history, and so begin our post-Hittite

story from that time. The conquest by Cyrus and the reunification of all

the Hittite lands under Persian rule a few years later, in 546, would

provide a suitable starting-point; yet, in fact, from the age of Sargon,

a century and a half before, there can be traced no real semblance of

surviving Hittite power nor any of the old Hittite individuality in

the local arts. Their very name then almost disappeared from Oriental

history, and was retained but as a memory; while in Asia Minor the

power of the Phrygian kings was then at its zenith, and in the presence

of Phrygian inscriptions at Eyuk,[83] near the old Hittite capital,

and at Tyana,[84] which seems to have replaced Pteria in importance in

the revival of the tenth century, there is indication that the Hittite

day was already ended. But though the Hittite power was broken and

disintegrated, their civilisation faded only gradually from view. Long

after the sun had set upon its pride it lingered on, felt rather than

seen, in the twilight that obscures our vision of the tableland in the

early part of the first millennium B.C., surviving long enough here

and there, as we shall see, in the form of institutions and religious

customs, to have left a trace in the pages of Greek history. Thereafter

we have several clear phases to review, interrupted by others of

considerable disturbance and obscurity. Following the overthrow of

Assyria on the one hand, and the decline of Phrygia on the other, two new

powers appeared in the sixth century in the Medes and the Lydians, who

similarly divided Asia Minor, with the Halys as their mutual boundary.

By 546, however, Cyrus had annexed the whole country to the Persian

Empire, in the continuous history of which it shared until the advent, in

B.C. 324, of Alexander, who once more established the supremacy of the

West. With his death the tribal struggles of antiquity reappear in new

guise, and history is occupied chiefly with the varying fortunes of the

kingdoms of Pergamum, of Pontus, and of the Seleucids, until in the first

century B.C. Roman organisation gathered together the loose threads of

independence and retied the knot in a manner that remained firm, in fine,

for several hundred years. The next great landmark is not till 668 A.D.,

when, forty-six years after the flight of Mohammed, the Saracen army laid

siege to Constantinople. In 1067 the Seljûks appeared from the east,

followed two centuries later by the Osmanli-Turks, though these were not

finally re-established in power, after the Mongol invasions, until 1413

A.D.

[Illustration: PLATE XXIV

MONUMENTS OF PHRYGIA

BEY-KEUI: THE ROYAL ROAD TRACED BY RUTS IN THE SURFACE ROCK (_See pp. 24,

38._)

DIMERLI: A FALLEN LION (_See p. 60._)]

Of the monarchies that arose as the Hittite power declined, and in their

turn passed away, that of the Phrygians first attracts our attention

by its proximity in time and place. When the Muski first appeared in

the twelfth century B.C. upon the north-west frontier of Assyria,[85]

they gave warning of a tide of Aryan immigration setting in from the

north-west. This first wave, after beating vainly against the ramparts

of the Assyrian Empire, seems to have retreated; but it left its traces

behind in a group of people, whether colonists or prisoners settled on

the soil in the Assyrian manner, who by the same name reappear some

centuries later[86] as a small state on the east of the Euphrates

opposite Malatia. We know nothing of the early history of this movement,

but, so far as can be seen, the rolling of this wave across Asia Minor

was coeval with the submergence of the Hatti seated at Boghaz-Keui as

the dominant power among the Hittite states. Nor is it clear to what

cause we must attribute the retiring of this vanguard. Probably, as in

Syria with the Hittites,[87] and in Asia Minor with the Cimmerians, the

migratory movement was intermittent; and historically we may see in the

repulse by the Assyrians on the one hand, and in the development of

the rival state of Lydia and the Greek colonies on the other, coupled

with a certain recuperative vitality latent in the Hittite states of

the centre, various active causes tending to the consolidation of the

Phrygians at the focus of least resistance, in the fertile tracts to

which they gave their name. However that may be, at the dawn of Greek

history we find them already a fading power, but one which had left an

indelible impression in Greek tradition and romance, obscuring entirely

the old-time Hatti power of which no memory remained.

Though the settlement of the Phrygians is just beyond historical

vision, the leading features of the movement can be inferred from

Greek literature, and a certain amount of detail gathered from the

monuments which they have left behind.[88] The chief migration of the

Phrygians—the ninth wave of our simile—may be judged, from certain facts

which Professor Ramsay has pointed out, to have taken place about the

beginning of the ninth century B.C. They came in irresistible bands of

mail-clad warriors from Macedonia and Thrace, crossing into Asia Minor

by the Hellespont, and eventually establishing their monarchy and state

on the sources of the Sangarius.[89] Being all men and conquerors, their

coming introduced new ideas of the dominance of the male element in

religion and in society.[90] The pre-existing central ideal of the people

of Asia Minor had been based on the importance of motherhood, reflected

in religion by the worship of the Mother-goddess, and in society by

a matriarchal system and absence of true marriage. Now the Phrygians

introduced a new Father-god and a god of thunder, and a reminiscence of

the struggle between the old and new ideals may be traced in the pages of

Homer; but ultimately they were amalgamated in various ways in different

parts of the country.[91]

Profound as were the changes in religious and social ideals which the

Phrygians introduced, these influences could hardly stir the popular

imagination so deeply or so rapidly as their deeds of arms. Defended from

all harm by their impenetrable armour, they carried all before them, so

that they appeared in Greek tradition as a race of heroes, whose kings

were the associates of the gods, whose language was before all,[92] and

the speech of the goddess herself.[93] ‘Their country was the land of

great fortified cities.’[94] In this popular acclaim we suspect that the

Phrygians received credit for works and to some extent for the prestige

of the Hatti whose realm they had inherited.[95] Their kingdom without

doubt held chief sway over the north-west and centre of Asia Minor during

the ninth and eighth centuries B.C. In the west, indeed, it was only

at the end of that period challenged by the independence and growing

strength of Lydia; and on the other hand it must have embraced, as we

have shown, the regions both of Pteria[96] and of Tyana, where it touched

the Assyrian frontier in the age of Sargon; but on the whole we fail

to find any wide range of Phrygian works, of walled cities or of vast

monuments, that could entitle the Phrygians to the whole credit of these

memories.

None the less, some Phrygian monuments, like the ‘tomb of Midas’ near

Doghanlu, are striking, peculiar, and impressive. So, too, are others

further south, of which we reproduce some illustrations,[97] because

of the added interest of the influence of Hittite art and technique

which can be traced in them. The ‘lion tomb,’ near Dimerli, illustrates

a motive dominant in their decorative reliefs, reflected in the later

sepulchres of Ayazîn. Here are seen two lions, guarding as it were the

entrance to the tomb, arranged facing one another on either side of the

door. In the tomb of Dimerli the lions are rampant, and a column or

altar is seen between them. The symbolism of this design may be purely

Phrygian, but the decorative conception of the twin guardian lions is

too freely found in Hittite art[98] for us to doubt that it had been

borrowed from the older population. So, too, in the method of carving

the reliefs, as well as in detail of treatment, as, for instance, in the

outline of the shoulder muscles of the fallen lion,[99] there is abundant

indication to us now of an influence not visible to the historians of

antiquity.

[Illustration: PLATE XXV

MONUMENTS OF PHRYGIA

DIMERLI: THE LION TOMB

AYAZÎN: TOMB WITH LIONS

TYANA: PHRYGIAN INSCRIPTION OF MIDAS (_See p. 56._)]

Though the monuments and legends together help us to reconstruct the

base and framework of Phrygian history, there are very few authenticated

data with which to fill in the details. There is no long list of royal

names, for the rulers are supposed to have been named Midas and Gordius

alternately; and a few other names preserved in Greek tradition are

merely legendary. It is not until the age of Sargon[100] at the close

of the eighth century B.C., that a few facts come to light among the

Assyrian archives. Then it would appear that the Phrygian sphere of

influence had penetrated far into south-eastern Cappadocia and was

expanding, until challenged by the Assyrian forces in a series of

campaigns beginning in 718 B.C. But Midas the Phrygian was not easily

restrained, and in the next year prevailed on Pisiris of Carchemish

to revolt against the Assyrian supremacy, while several minor states

of Cappadocia, forming part of the region called Tabal, followed this

example, prompted, doubtless, from the same source of inspiration. The

rebels were promptly punished, and one of these expeditions sent against

them penetrated, it would seem, to Tyana, at this time an important

centre for the Phrygians[101] in the conduct of their wars. In 709,

however, following a further expedition sent against Midas from Cilicia,

the Phrygians capitulated, sending ambassadors and tribute. The reason

for this sudden change of front is also made apparent. About the middle

of the eighth century B.C. there had appeared the first wave of an

overwhelming movement of peoples from Southern Europe,[102] including

seemingly both Cimmerians and Scythians, coming by way of the Caucasus,

spreading terror and devastation as it passed. The Vannic power of

Urartu in Southern Armenia about 720 B.C. received the first onslaught,

and then the frontiers of Sargon, who had to call up all the resources

of his armies to protect his kingdom. Recoiling, the tide set westward

through Asia Minor, meeting about 710 another similar stream[103] that

had crossed the Bosphorus; and the united barbarians for half a century

established a reign of terror in the north of Asia Minor. The details of

the story are wanting, so far as it directly affects the Phrygians during

this fateful period. About 675 however, the royal Midas (presumably

the grandson of _Mita_ who had begged Assyria through his ambassadors

for help), defeated on every hand, in despair committed suicide. The

Cimmerians overran his country, and the kingdom of Phrygia henceforth

ceased to be. We do not follow the movements of these hordes further;

for they have left no trace or handiwork upon the Hittite lands which

they had overrun, although it was not until the close of the seventh

century that they disappeared. Their inroads, however, and the violent

deflections which they gave to the course of history, are probably

responsible for the final disappearance of all trace and memory of the

Hittite power in Greek history.

The Lydian state in the west, that fought the final struggle for

civilisation against these restless and untiring foes, next claims our

notice from the way in which certain of its institutions and ancient

customs reflect the influence of the Hittite civilisation, from which,

indeed, they may have been inherited.[104] Unlike the rulers and

customs of Phrygia, the leading elements of the Lydian society had been

matured on the soil from dim antiquity. Tradition speaks of a dynasty

of Heraclidae who ruled from the twelfth century for five hundred

years,[105] and whose ancestor, Agron,[106] was descended from Hercules

himself. Even before that date there is memory of a royal family of

Atyadae, whose rule, if there be anything in this memory, must have

passed back to the days of direct Hittite domination that saw the carving

of the warrior-gods of Kara-Bel and maybe the Mother-goddess of Sipylus.

However that may be, we see the Lydians already an organised state, even

while the Phrygian power was still at its height, before the Cimmerian

storm had burst. As with the Hittites in past time, their constitution

was partly that of confederate or vassal states governed by hereditary

chiefs owning allegiance to the ruling power at Sardis, and partly

feudal,[107] the chieftains owing their military service and their tribal

forces to the king, while the common people appear as serfs. In this

society the king was both head of the priesthood and chief commander of

the vassal chiefs in war.[108] The emblem of sovereignty was a double

axe, which the Greeks said was derived from Hercules himself.[109] From

among the mass of legend which characterise the earliest efforts of Greek

history, it might be possible to trace many suggestions of the influence

of the Hittite civilisation; but the lack of local monuments (a fact due

doubtless to physical conditions), to reveal to us the dominant features

of Lydian art, restrains us from this aspect of inquiry. One point at

any rate is established, that not merely was the district of Lydia at

one time embraced within the Hittite empire,[110] but that it became

imbued then with many features of social organisation which it carried

down from the old world to the new. Our main inquiry being based on the

monuments of the Hittite lands, we cannot dwell upon the stories of the

Lydian kings, of their desperate struggles with the Cimmerians following

the downfall of Phrygia, nor of their warfare with the Medes, with whom,

after the fall of Nineveh in 607 B.C., they ultimately divided Asia

Minor, with the Halys as the boundary between them. The names of two

kings are worthy of mention as historical landmarks; the one is Gyges,

first of the Mermnad dynasty in the middle of the seventh century B.C.,

contemporary of Assurbanipal, the Assyrian, and of Psamtek, Pharaoh of

Egypt, with both of whom he held relations of diplomatic character.

The other is Crœsus, the last and greatest of them all, who, having

established his power eastward to the Halys, turned his attention to

those rich Greek cities which had sprung up in the West.

[Illustration: PLATE XXVI

VIEW NEAR SARDIS, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF LYDIA

The valley of the Pactolus, a tributary of the Hermus, which rising on

Mt. Tmolus flowed past the temple of Kybele at Sardis.]

These colonies, founded in selected spots along the coast several

centuries before, had indeed in many cases already passed their zenith.

Cities like Smyrna, Ephesus, and Colophon were in the pride of their

prosperity before the fall of Phrygia and the rise of Lydia. How old

they were in their origin is not determinable, but they had received,

and retained in historic times, the impress of the Hittite civilisation,

so much so that Mr. Hogarth, writing of Ionia, concludes that ‘this

coast was long dominated by an inland, continental power, that of the

Cappadocian Hatti, who imposed their own distinct civilisation, and

admitted the Ægean culture only as a faint influence ascending along

the trade routes.’[111] ‘The Goddess of the Phrygian mountains became

at Smyrna the Sipylene Mother, and at Ephesus Artemis of the Many

Breasts was worshipped with rites more Oriental than Greek.’ Recently

also Sir Cecil Smith, in discussing certain ivory statuettes found by

Mr. Hogarth in the foundations of the temple of Artemis, has pointed

out further analogies with the old cult of the goddess, as revealed by

the sculptures of Boghaz-Keui.[112] However that may be, the fact that

the Hittite armies of the fourteenth or thirteenth century B.C. had

penetrated to the coast at Smyrna and Ephesus, is made clear by the

sculptures of Sipylus and of Kara-Bel, to which we have alluded.[113]

Now these fair cities of Ionia fell one by one to Crœsus, who seemed

likely to establish an empire even over the islands, when suddenly Cyrus

the Persian appeared from the East, reuniting all the sundered parts of

the old empires of Assyria and of Babylon as he passed. Crœsus marched

immediately out to resist his oncoming, and as a preliminary step crossed

the Halys and ‘ravaged the lands of the “Syrians,” and took the city of

the Pterians and enslaved the inhabitants. He also took all the adjacent

places and expelled the population, who had given him no cause for

blame.’[114] Possibly we may see in these acts, which appeared wanton to

the historian, an effort on the part of Crœsus to delay or prevent the

passing of the Persian army, which would naturally follow the old royal

road in preference to the undeveloped route across the desert. However

that may be, the effort was vain: about 546 B.C. the Lydian capital and

its king fell into the hands of Cyrus.

The old Hittite realms were now reunited under Persian rule, and

continued to share in the common history of the Empire of the Great King

for more than two hundred years. For the purpose of administration Asia

Minor was divided into provinces, governed by Satraps, of which the old

kingdom of Lydia formed one, and the regions of Konia, Angora, Pteria,

and Sivas were included in another, the largest of all, which reached

from Lydia to Armenia, and included the whole plateau from the Taurus

northwards to the sea. The tract of Cilicia with part of the province

of Aleppo formed another, while the former Hittite states in the north

of Syria were similarly grouped together. But the hold of the Great King

ruling in Susa over his distant provinces was weak, and the spirit of

Persian civilisation did not penetrate, or could not, into these historic

lands. No monument remains to tell us of this phase, during which the

old local institutions were maintained and even developed unrestrained.

The Greek cities of the coast retained their Greek characters under

Greek governors; while the tribes of the interior restored the rule of

their local princes or priest-dynasts amid a condition of security and

freedom which they had not known for many generations. All that the

central power demanded was tribute and tranquillity. Local feuds between

the Satraps might smoulder, and the symptoms of rebellion here and there

remain almost unheeded, so long as these conditions were fulfilled.

Under these circumstances the western people gradually recovered the

spirit of independence, while from across the sea the Greek states even

aspired to empire. The march of the Ten Thousand in 402, under Cyrus the

younger, made famous by Xenophon in his _Anabasis_, showed how lax was

the organisation and how weak the control of the central government. It

also opened up incidentally the southern route by the Mæander, Ilgîn, and

Iconium to the Cilician gates, in preference to the longer royal road by

way of Boghaz-Keui, by which hitherto the posts from Susa had travelled

west to Sardis.

In B.C. 334 Alexander the Great crossed the Hellespont, and within a

year, by his energy and ability to use the new army-machine which he had

inherited, had conquered western Asia Minor as far as the Halys, and

passed on leaving it his own. This date marks an issue more changeful

to Asia Minor than the conquest of Cyrus. For though no monuments throw

light on the story of the next two centuries, the system of government

was now initiated which in due time was to result in the Hellenising of

the interior. Cities were founded with Greek names, and the Greek speech

gradually made its way, through Greek-speaking princes and governors, as

the official language. The change worked very slowly, but it was profound

in the issue, as we shall see. At first the states maintained their old

customs and native dialects without appreciable difference, except in the

vigour of the new government, but in the course of two or three centuries

Greek language and Greek culture, even to some extent Greek thought and

religious ideas, had permeated widely among the upper-class natives of

the interior.

The struggles of Alexander’s successors, who had inherited from him the

empire, are matters of common history. The Seleucids reunited, though

in futile manner, the formerly Hittite regions in the north of Syria

and Cilicia, and for a time gained some ascendency in Asia Minor, until

defeated in 191 B.C. and driven back beyond the Taurus, where for another

century they retained a sphere of influence. But of greater interest to

us is the survival of local power in Cappadocia, under the dynasty of

Ariarthes, which had come to the fore in the last century of Persian

domination. This state, at first with incessant warfare, and then by

means of tribute to the Seleucids, maintained in effect a form of local

independence which survived even down to the Roman occupation and beyond.

Another state that retained its freedom and local princes throughout this

time was Bithynia, on the tract opposite Constantinople, but this is a

region outside the boundaries of our story.

[Illustration: PLATE XXVII

CILICIA: ROMAN AQUEDUCTS OVER THE EASTERN PLAIN (_See p. 70._)]

The Romans dallied long in following up the defeat of the Seleucids at

Magnesia, when the way lay open to the annexation of Asia Minor, for

which its people, torn by their internal wars, would have been even

grateful. But it was not until late in the second century b.c. that the

west was united as a Roman province. Even then the east remained under

the direct government of the local princes, to whom the Roman Senate

entrusted their frontier. At the beginning of the first century B.C.

the disaffection of Mithridates, king of Pontus, a state bordering the

Black Sea, and his efforts to win for himself a kingdom in Cappadocia and

Bithynia, was one of the last fitful traces of the old native power, and

called up more serious efforts on the part of Rome. The Cilician pirates,

who from their base under the southern slopes of Taurus had become a

leading naval power, were also suppressed, and during the century that

followed the whole country as far as the Euphrates was gradually brought

under direct control, and the provincial system was established. The

province of _Cilicia_ had been founded in B.C. 103, and after various

successive modifications, during which the western district, Cilicia

Trachæa, continued to be ruled by the priest-dynasts of Olba, the

whole was united with Lycaonia under a consular legate about 137 A.D.

_Bithynia-Pontus_, the scene of the late rebellions, came into the power

of Rome by the will of its last king in B.C. 74, and the double province

was put under the administration of a prætorian proconsul in B.C. 27.

_Galatia_ was constituted in B.C. 25, and _Pontus_ was added to it in

63 A.D. Finally, the occupation of _Cappadocia_, dating from A.D. 17,

completed the division of the administrative districts; for the sixth

province _Asia_, in the west, had been the earliest founded, as we have

noted, in B.C. 133.

[Illustration: PLATE XXVIII

KYRRHUS: ROMAN TOMB AND RUINED BRIDGE (_See p. 71._)]

The system of Roman organisation at first modified and finally broke up

the old tribal communities. For some time, many old-world institutions

were maintained, notably the priest-dynasts of Comana, Olba, and

Venasa; but gradually the native communal temple-district organisation

of society gave way, to be replaced by the Greek political system, the

seeds of which had been planted two or three centuries before, and

had now taken root. In this system the city became the administrative

centre, and the villages around were its branches. Greek became more and

more the language of the people.[115] The formal records of military

works, the milestones and imperial monuments, are inscribed in Latin,

but the inscriptions in the old graveyards are carved in Greek letters.

We cannot dwell upon the history of these times, of the reorganisation

under Diocletian, at the close of the third century, marking the

commencement of the Byzantine period, nor of the spread of Christianity,

with the great social changes that involved. We reproduce, however, some

illustrations of Roman works, such as are met with in plenty throughout

the length and breadth of Hittite lands, from Malatia to Iconium and

beyond, from Tarsus to the Black Sea coast. The great aqueducts like

those of Tyana,[116] and those which stretch for miles across the

Cilician plain,[117] are an indication of the vast scheme of development

that was instituted under the new well-ordered system of government.

Great cities both in Syria and in Asia Minor were the product of these

times. Many of these were the foundations of places that still remain

centres of administration; while some have lost their importance, and

are falling gradually to ruin in silence and desolation. The remains of

Kyrrhus upon the Afrîn,[118] a site now marked only by the small village

of Huru-Pegamber some distance away, are among the wonderful memorials

of antiquity. The imposts are falling from their pilasters, and the

keystones to its arches are working loose, but it retains its silent

streets of impressive stone buildings, its arches and colonnades, its

amphitheatre, as though its people had quitted hardly a generation ago.

Numerous Greek inscriptions may still be found amongst the ruins,[119]

and just southward of the Acropolis several sarcophagi of marble, with

Greek names upon them, indicate the position of the old-time burying

place. In the extreme south of the site, with its sanctity still

maintained in a modern Mohammedan shrine and well adjoining, there stands

perfect a tomb-structure[120] in the Roman style of the second century

A.D. We give a photograph of this, which is one of the best-preserved

examples of its kind. Our other photographs[121] taken at Ephesus and at

Ba’albec,[122] at the two ends of the Hittite lands, will sufficiently

illustrate the art and civilisation of their time and place.

The very prosperity of the country during the Roman occupation was one

cause of its danger, presenting it as an alluring prize to the forces

gradually arising along its frontiers. The extreme centralisation of the

Byzantine system weakened, if it did not altogether exterminate, the

power of local resistance and administration. So long as the central

government remained powerful all was well, but the danger of the system

was manifested by the ease with which the Arab forces in 668 passed

through the land from end to end, pausing only before the walls of

Constantinople. The hold of the Saracen power, however, was not firm, and

the Roman system was possessed of great latent vitality which in the end

was equal to the emergency, so that in a series of campaigns extending

from 920 to 965, the Saracens were driven back from point to point, until

first Tarsus[123] was recovered and then Antioch, which had for more than

three hundred years been in their possession.

[Illustration: PLATE XXIX

BAALBEK: SCULPTURE AND TEMPLE RUINS OF ROMAN PERIOD]

The Seljûk Turks, who next appeared on the scene, were a more formidable

and resistless enemy. Having at one time been the servants of the Arab

sultans, they had now become the masters, and in 1067 they entered

Asia Minor, conquering Cilicia and Cappadocia. Four years later the

Emperor Romanus Diogenes himself was their prisoner, and by 1081

the whole centre and east of the tableland was recognised as their

realm. Adopting a policy of depopulation and devastation, in which the

whole of Phrygia was laid waste, the Turks rapidly set up an almost

impassable frontier between themselves and the Byzantine power which

still held sway in the West. Notwithstanding spasmodic efforts of the

old rulers to regain their dominion, the country gradually relapsed

into Orientalism, and with the rise of the Osmanli Turks from 1289 the

Empire of the West rapidly disintegrated. Under the Seljûk rule, a new

aspect of decorative art and architecture appeared in Asia Minor, a

phase much neglected yet most worthy, as Professor Ramsay has pointed

out, of special study. Under certain of their lines a brilliant series

of monuments arose, among which the Hans[124] or roadside rest-houses

are specially noteworthy, contributing also as they did to public

security and pacification. In addition to these, other public works

like their bridges and fortifications, as well as their mosques and

colleges with cloisters and sculptures, are all evidence of one of the

brightest phases of Moslem art. Some of the beautiful monuments which

are shown in our illustrations, like the sculptured portal of the old

school (or _Midresseh_) at Nigdeh, and the ‘tomb of Havanda,’ at the same

place,[125] with its delicate tracery and design, belong to the best

phases of this memorable period.

With the enthronement of the Seljûks the old world faded rapidly from

view. No conquest in all the history of the Hittite lands had been

so thorough and so enduring. Previously we had seen old institutions

surviving under a new system that grew up around them; but now a new

language and new forms of government, with new administrative districts,

were imposed by the conquerors; while the devastation of the earlier

stages of the conquest, followed by the repeated incursions of nomad

peoples, profoundly modified the racial stock of the population. With

them the modern Turkey-in-Asia was born.

III

MONUMENTS OF THE HITTITES

PRELIMINARY: CHRONOLOGY—CLASSIFICATION—DISPOSITION

With this outline of the chief historical phases of Asia Minor before

us, we pass from the remains of mediæval and classical antiquity to

a consideration of those more ancient monuments which bear witness

to Hittite handiwork. Notwithstanding the progress of historical

research, these remain the surest basis for the study of our subject,

giving us an insight into the Hittite civilisation, which is rendered

more valuable and more intelligible by the light thrown upon Hittite

chronology by recent excavation. Their nature and intrinsic details

are material evidence of Hittite arts, which, in the lack of internal

literary documents, no other sources can satisfactorily supply; while

their disposition defines for us the Hittite lands in a manner more

reliable and more substantial than theories based on vague and difficult

references in oriental history. A reasonable consideration of the

environment of these monuments, also, may help us to appreciate something

of that which is most difficult to realise but all-important, namely the

circumstances of the life of those whose hands produced them.[126]

[Illustration: PLATE XXX

EPHESUS: REMAINS OF THE ‘LIBRARY OF CELSUS,’ RECENTLY UNCOVERED (_See p.

71._)]

Obedient to a now accepted principle of psychology, we follow in the

development of our inquiry the sequence of evidences by which this

subject has been established during the past generation. Postponing

for the present any detailed account of the walled towns and groups of

sculptures which have been the scene of recent investigation, we shall

consider firstly those monuments which are found isolated and scattered

throughout the regions indicated in the opening chapter. If, in so doing,

we can yet be guided by the light of modern discoveries, we may hope to

avoid some of the difficulties which beset the path of these pioneers

whose work introduced to us this new material. Our method of study, like

theirs, must be comparative; but we shall be content to confine ourselves

almost entirely to the monuments identified as Hittite by the presence of

the peculiar hieroglyphic signs or inscriptions carved upon them. It was

indeed upon this line of evidence that Professor A. H. Sayce was enabled,

thirty years ago, to establish the relationship of the unexplained

inscriptions of Hamath with the sculptures of Kara-Bel in the far west

of Asia Minor, and thence to make his brilliant inference of a forgotten

empire.[127]

We use the test of Hittite hieroglyphs, not only because it has become

in this way fundamental to our subject, but because it is no longer open

to doubt whether these peculiar signs are of Hittite origin or not.

Formerly there may have been room for reasonable criticism so long as

this conclusion was based only on the fact that these symbols were found

chiefly on unexplained monuments from Hamath and neighbouring places in

Northern Syria associated in history with the Hittites. But now the

increasing accumulation of this kind of circumstantial evidence has been

crowned by the discovery that the chief site of such monuments in Asia

Minor, namely Boghaz-Keui, was for two centuries the capital of the

Hittites, whose name (Hatti) appears freely on the literary documents

that have been unearthed[128] there in recent excavations. Being secured

then against fundamental error, a comparison of the Hittite monuments

identified on this basis readily reveals peculiarities of art which

may be regarded as typical, so that we might reasonably include in our

category other monuments of like kind which lack only the ultimate

criterion which we have set before us. We do not wish, however, nor do

we need, in the scope of this volume, to press the argument by analogy,

being warned against the pitfalls of such a method by several general

considerations, and especially by the noticeable survival of Hittite

influence in the local sculptures, like those of Phrygia[129] and western

Lycaonia.[130]

Though we continue to employ the old materials, however, we see them

now in a clearer light. Just as the time has passed by when the word

‘Hittite’ must be written in inverted commas, or qualified with the

adjective ‘so-called,’ so now we are not content any longer to regard

the older monuments of the interior together in general as pre-Hellenic,

much less pre-historic, without distinction as to period or locality.

The references to the Hittites in Babylonian, Egyptian, and Assyrian

history alone, it is true, would not be sufficient to establish an

historical basis for this phase of our inquiry, though giving us a

range of dates that covers broadly the whole of the second millennium

down to the eighth century B.C.,[131] but these allusions are now

supplemented, and in great measure made intelligible, by the evidence of

the Hittite archives recently discovered at Boghaz-Keui, which establish

chronological relationships of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries

B.C.,[132] together with a series of contemporary Hittite works. This

date now becomes the basis for all inquiry, bringing into line several

points previously problematical and much disputed, just as the intrinsic

evidence of these archives throws a new flood of light over the

disposition and constitution of the Hittites at the very period when they

figure most prominently in the pages of Egyptian history.

[Illustration: PLATE XXXI

ANGORA: REMAINS OF THE TEMPLE OF ROME AND AUGUSTUS]

Other researches have contributed towards broadening this basis of

investigation. At Sakje-Geuzi recent excavations[133] have established

the fact previously in doubt, that the settlements of Hittite peoples had

begun there at any rate many centuries, possibly several thousand years,

previous to the age marked by the oncoming and ultimately overwhelming

tide of Assyrian influence early in the first millennium B.C. The

relation of the later phase of local arts to Assyrian chronology is

given by the results of excavations made on the great mound at Sinjerli,

distant about a day’s journey in the same valley towards the south.[134]

Here certain palace buildings and sculptures, some of which betray

Assyrian feeling, may be dated, by help of inscribed monuments that were

unearthed, to the eighth century B.C., when this principality became

tributary to Tiglath Pileser III. The reign of Esarhaddon, the conqueror

of Egypt, brought even this nominal independence to an end about 680 B.C.

[Illustration: PLATE XXXII

NIGDEH: PORTAL OR THE ‘WHITE MIDRESSEH’

Built by Ala-ed-din the Great, _circa_ 1223 A.D. An early example of

Seljûk art. (_See p. 73._)]

To these revelations by the spade there should be added various

contributions of the pen, which, together with the old materials, make

possible the study of Hittite remains upon an historical rather than a

purely archæological basis. We might indeed make some general inferences

from the results of these researches, but it will be wise to keep ever

in view the geographical conditions, and never to assume collateral

development among the various branches of the Hittite peoples whose lands

were physically so disunited. Evidence affecting one state in the north

of Syria may be applied with some surety to its neighbours; but it may

not be applicable beyond the Taurus. No published accounts enable us to

test the antiquity of Hittite settlements upon the tableland of Asia

Minor, and it is doubtful if even the necessary soundings have been made.

For the middle period, however, the difficulty is less, where history

shows that the influence of the Hatti administered from Boghaz-Keui

must have predominated in the north of Syria, and contemporaneity of

development may therefore be inferred. But when we come to the inferior

limit of date the same difficulty (the possibility of independent

development) is reopened, for, in the absence of positive material

evidence to the contrary, the Assyrian arms seem never to have passed the

Halys even while Assyrian influences were dominant in Syria. On the other

hand, as we have seen in the previous chapters, we have to take into

account the possible influence of the new civilisations, like that of the

Phrygians, which had meanwhile been developing upon the tableland. One

thing at any rate seems clear, that no Hittite monuments of Asia Minor

can well be later than the period of Phrygian domination in the eighth

century B.C.,[135] so that in the end a general parallel is suggested

with the closing dates afforded from Assyrian history.

Having now considered in general terms the method and the new

chronological basis of our inquiry, we come first to an account of those

isolated monuments which illustrate to us the diversity of Hittite art

and the wide range of its influence. The most striking of these are

perhaps those carved on the living rock, which may take the form of

single figures, some gigantic, others less than life-size, or groups

representing deities and their ministers, accompanied in each case by

Hittite hieroglyphs, or long inscriptions without any sculptures to

give a suggestion of their meaning.[136] Of the moveable monuments

only one is found clearly _in situ_,[137] and this from its position

and nature may be thought, like some of the rock-inscriptions, to have

been a boundary stone. There are others, however, of such weight[138]

or peculiar character[139] that they may be judged to have been set up

not far from the sites where they have been found. The _provenance_ of

monuments found on or in the vicinity of ancient sites is also reliable

as evidence.[140] Sculptures are rarely executed in the round, except for

architectural purposes,[141] though in one or two instances there have

been found fragments of statues.[142] Reliefs however, are plentiful,

mostly representing mythological creatures or persons; while a distinct

class, which represents a ceremonial feast or communion, seems to include

some specimens of funerary character.[143] Among inscribed monuments the

most interesting are those stelæ which show a human figure, accompanied,

it would seem, by a formal biography of good works.[144]

[Illustration: PLATE XXXIII

NIGDEH: TOMB OF SELJÛK PERIOD

Traditionally the tomb of Havanda, wife of Ala-ed-din, but dated 1344

A.D. Note the design, tracery, and stalactite ornamentation. (_See p.

73._)]

Unfortunately a considerable proportion of the inscribed blocks of stone

that have been found are imperfect, so that little can be hoped from the

inscriptions themselves. There are also a few small objects so portable,

and reported from regions so exceptional, that they cannot be used as

topographical evidence. Lastly, there are naturally a number of monuments

simulating Hittite work which we hesitate to include without further

evidence. It will be useful at this stage to give a classified list of

the places where the chief Hittite monuments have been found.[145] Towns

and palaces are included though not discussed in this chapter; further,

classifications which are based on inference, or doubtful in any way,

are denoted by square brackets, while an asterisk signifies that the

Hittite origin of the monument to which it refers is problematical and

unconfirmed. Other special features are pointed out in the footnotes.

WALLED TOWNS.—Boghaz-Keui, Eyuk, Sakje-Geuzi, Sinjerli. [Ilgîn

(Kolitoghlu Yaila), Jerablus (Carchemish), Marash.]

PALACES.—Boghaz-Keui, Eyuk, Sakje-Geuzi, Sinjerli.[146] [Malatia,

Marash.[147]]

FORTRESSES.—Boghaz-Keui (Sary Kaleh, Yenije Kaleh), Giaour Kalesi,

Karaburna, Kizil Dagh.

ROCK CARVINGS.—_Sculptures with Inscriptions_—Boghaz-Keui (Iasily Kaya),

Fraktin, Ivrîz, Kara-Bel (Mount Tmolus), Kizil Dagh, Mount Sipylus,

Tashji. _Sculpture only_—Giaour-Kalesi.[148] _Inscriptions only_—Asarjik,

Boghaz-Keui (Nishan Tash), Bulghar-Madên, Gurun, Kara Dagh (Mahalich).

STONES IN SITU.—_Inscribed Sculpture_—Kuru-Bel. _Inscription only_—Bogche.

MOVEABLE STONES.—_Sculptures in the round_—Boghaz-Keui,[149]

Derendeh[150] (and at Arslan Tash),[150] Eyuk,[150] Eski-Yapân,[150]

Kurts-oghlu,[151] Kuru-Bel,[152] Marash,[151] Yamoola.[149] _Reliefs;

mural_—Aintab, Boghaz-Keui, Doghanlu, Malatia, Marash. [Angora

(Kalaba, Yalanjak, Amaksiz Keui).] _Reliefs representing a Ceremonial

Feast_—Kara-burshlu, Malatia, Marash, Sakje-Geuzi, Sinjerli,[153] Yarre.

_Inscriptions accompanying human figure_—Andaval, Bor, Jerablus[154]

(Carchemish), Kellekli, Marash,[153] Samsat, Tell-Ahmar. _Inscriptions

only_—Aleppo, Alexandretta,[155] Albistan (Kirchuk Yapalak), Bey-Keui,

Ekrek,[154] Emir-Ghazi,[151] Hamath, Ilgîn (Kolitoghlu Yaila),

Izgîn,[156] Jerablus, Karaburna, Nigdeh,[151] Restan, Suasa.

EXCEPTIONAL DISTRICTS.—Babylon, Erzerum (Kaza Passinler),[157]

Kedabeg,[154] Toprah Kaleh.

PROBLEMATICAL MONUMENTS.—Eflatoun-Bunar, Fassiler, Gerger.

The first thing that strikes us in considering this list is that these

monuments are all of stone. We might possibly be able to include, with

suitable caution, some number of small objects of bronze or pottery,

mostly in animal form, and also a number of peculiar ceramic types,

including painted vases and neolithic pottery decorated in a primitive

manner by incisions. But, except in the latter instances,[158] these

do not advance the main subject of our inquiry; for while their

identification with the Hittites is chiefly a matter of general

inference, their _provenance_ is nearly always doubtful. The same thing

might be said unhappily of the definitely Hittite seals and kindred

objects, of which several excellent specimens are on record,[159] whether

made of silver,[160] stone,[161] or ivory.[162] While all of these

are worthy of closest study from the point of view of Hittite art and

_motif_, yet nearly all have been found in the hands of peasants who were

loath to tell the exact site of their discovery, or of town-dealers who

did not know.

[Illustration: PLATE XXXIV

EPHESUS: MEDIEVAL FORTRESS WITH SELJÛK REMAINS AT AYASOLÛK

KONIA: ZAZADÎN HAN, OF SELJÛK WORK AND STYLE (_See p. 73._)]

Hence to define our Hittite land by the disposition of the monuments,

we fall back largely on the works in stone, the original position of

which is known or can be inferred. Doubtless at one time the surface of

the ground was covered with other indications, with ruins of villages

and houses where now the grass grows over indistinguishable mounds;

and doubtless also many exposed monuments must hitherto have escaped

scientific record. Hence our argument from the disposition of the

monuments should be guarded; it is positive, indeed, so far as we have

evidence, but the negative case should not be urged. The durability

of stone has perpetuated these monuments to us, but it is not thereby

demonstrated that the Hittites had any exclusive preference for this

material. And being of stone, they are most plentiful in stony regions,

and rarely found upon grassy plains. We cannot expect, for instance,

upon the broad pastures of Iconium anything analogous to the sculptures

which are found in rocky Taurus, where the opportunity was all-tempting

which in the former case was lacking. It has been well said that ‘if the

plateau presented throughout the same character, there would be no need

to seek on its surface monuments of the past. Hunters and woodmen build

no cities, and arts are unknown to them.’[163] Consequently, in finding

a concentration of Hittite sites upon the hilly regions of the map, this

fact should not be allowed to weigh disproportionately, although there is

independent evidence tending to the conclusion that several branches of

the Hittite peoples, particularly those of Asia Minor, were of mountain

origin.[164]

With these considerations in mind, a study of the disposition of these

Hittite sites upon the map[165] can teach us much, notwithstanding our

self-imposed restrictions. Our southerly frontier reaches to Hamath

on the Orontes. Eastward our boundary is the Euphrates, flowing past

Malatia, Samsat, and Jerablus. Westward the monuments follow the inner

edge of Taurus as far as the Kara Dagh, with not a single site under

the southern slope of these mountains. In the north we have no clear

boundary. Eyuk and Boghaz-Keui are found in the middle of the circuit

of the Halys, with no places nearer than those which lie in the valley

of that river. Across the river a single line of monuments, including

Giaour-Kalesi, Yarre, Doghanlu, and Bey-Keui, seems to lead on towards

the Lydian coast, to where Sipylus and Kara-Bel are found between Sardis

and Smyrna.

[Illustration: PLATE XXXV

ROWANDUZ KALEH: MEDIEVAL FORTRESS ON A STEEP CONICAL HILL OVERLOOKING THE

AFRÎN

Supposed to have been built under Genoese architects during the 14th

century A.D. (_See p. 9._)]

A brief consideration of the classified list of monuments above will

reveal the fact that for description no grouping of these places is so

convenient as that formed naturally by geographical divisions. The first

main group (A) will include all the monuments of the north of Syria,

in which we may recognise three separate districts. The most southerly

is the Orontes valley, with which we can include Aleppo, though the

latter historically would seem to have been the centre of an independent

state.[166] The monuments from Hamath consist of a series of stones

inscribed in relief, partly belonging to the same inscription; while at

Aleppo there is one small stone of similar character. The places Restan

and Homs indicated upon the map are positions of importance further up

the Orontes, though unidentified by local remains.[167] The site of

Kadesh, the historical frontier fortress of the Hittites in their warfare

with Egypt, is similarly now unrecognisable, but a consensus of opinion

among students of the Egyptian records places it not far southward of the

present lake of Homs.[168]

Eastward we have the monuments on the Euphrates, including numerous

inscriptions, a stela, and fragments of sculpture, from the irregular

mounds which mark the site of ancient Carchemish at Jerablus. Several

carved and inscribed monuments are recently reported from Kellekli and

Tell-Ahmar,[169] which are in the same vicinity, while further up the

river there are found an inscribed and sculptured block from Samsat,

and a doubtful carving on the rocks near Gerger Kalesi. The remaining

monuments of the north of Syria lie towards the west, mostly in the

valley of the Kara Su. The mounds of Sinjerli and Sakje-Geuzi are

included, wherein excavations have disclosed the ruins of sculptured

palaces and other monuments that will be described with more detail in a

later chapter. A relief with inscription comes from Kara-burshlu in the

same vicinity; while a sculptured and inscribed corner-stone of peculiar

character has been found at Aintab, a little to the east. To the south

of this town is Killiz, a place not marked by any peculiar remains, but

the centre where numbers of bronze figures,[170] seals, and other small

objects of Hittite character, are commonly found in the bazaars. Lower

down on the Afrîn, and hence geographically contiguous, is Kurts-oghlu,

whence comes a portion of a small statue carved in the round, upon which

still remain two lines of incised inscription. We include Marash also in

this group, though it is on higher ground at the ascent of the Taurus

mountains. Here there must have been a city of importance, suggested

alike in the strategic position and in the number and character of the

monuments found upon the site. Among these are two sculptured lions

(one inscribed with hieroglyphs in relief), slabs carved with reliefs

depicting interesting scenes, and the lower part of an inscribed statue,

as well as several blocks and fragments also inscribed.

Passing northwards the monuments found in the mountain regions of Taurus

and Anti-Taurus constitute our second main group (B). This embraces the

district marked by the four sites in the valley of the Tochma Su, with

which there may be included two others in the head-waters of the Pyramus.

At Malatia there have been found several architectural blocks sculptured

in relief with religious representations and hunting scenes, most of

them bearing also groups of Hittite hieroglyphs upon them. There can be

no doubt that, situated like Marash in a position of great strategic

importance,[171] at one time on the Mitannian and later on the Assyrian

frontier, this place is equally one of the more noteworthy Hittite sites.

From Derendeh come an inscribed fragment of a statue and a small basaltic

lion; and from a spot called appropriately Arslan Tash, one hour distant

to the south, two other lions, which are presumably architectural. At

Palanga an inscribed cylindrical columnar figure has been found; while

Gurun, further up the valley, is the site of two inscriptions, one on the

living rock and the other on an isolated block. On the southern side of

the watershed an inscribed stone has been found in a cemetery at Kirchuk

Yapalak, two hours distant from Albistan; while the column or obelisk

from Izgîn, inscribed on four sides with hieroglyphs in relief, is an

object almost as remarkable as the round column from Palanga.

This group includes, as a second district, five sites in the Anti-Taurus.

The most easterly is Kuru-Bel, a pass near old-time Comana: here is

one of the most striking Hittite works, resembling a great altar with

lions crouching upon the top on either hand. Three places are on the

main stream of the Zamanti Su: from an Armenian cemetery at Ekrek there

has come a stone inscribed in incised hieroglyphs, which has been

re-dressed with Christian emblems; at Tashji are two figures and an

inscription incised upon the rock; while Fraktin is famous as the site

of rock-sculptures that make important additions to Hittite religious

symbolism. Lastly, at Asarjik, on the northern slope of Mount Argæus,

overlooking Cæsarea, an inscription is incised upon a broken rock,

accompanied by interesting markings like graffiti.

In our third main group (C) we include those few monuments found in

or near the valley of the Halys, north-westward of Cæsarea. These are

a great sculptured eagle on a lion-base, an object not demonstrably

of Hittite workmanship, on the river-bank near Yamoola; a perfect

inscription covering four sides of a round-topped stone, standing on a

pedestal, overlooking the river valley on the south bank near Bogche;

thirdly, an inscription in three lines on a stone found at Karaburna,

which is on the opposite bank considerably lower down; and lastly,

two incised inscriptions found recently at Suasa, which lies back

considerably from the river, almost opposite the place last named.

With the same group we class the district inside the circuit of the

Halys, the monuments of which are almost confined to the famous ruins of

Boghaz-Keui, with the neighbouring sculptured sanctuary of Iasily Kaya,

and the walled mound and palace of Eyuk, both of which are described

in later chapters. There are, however, one or two features which may

be appropriately singled out for comparison in this chapter, notably

the inscription in relief on the rock called Nishan Tash, on the high

ground of the citadel at Boghaz-Keui, and a couple of building blocks

sculptured like those of Sinjerli, Malatia, and Eyuk, recently found at

the foot of the acropolis. If we may mention also two objects of doubtful

_provenance_, these introduce a place called Eski-Yapân, on the road from

Sungurlu to Chorum, where an architectural lion is built into a modern

wall,[172] and Denek-Madên, near to Cheshme-Keupru, where an interesting

round ivory object engraved with Hittite characters and signs has been

rescued.[173]

[Illustration: PLATE XXXVI

CÆSAREA: TURKISH CEMETERY, NOW DISUSED (_See p. 23._)]

We are inclined to group together all the monuments westward of the Halys

(D), including with them the two famous sculptures near the Lydian coast.

We thus bring together for comparison the rock carvings of Giaour-Kalesi

and of Kara-Bel, which are analogous, and the dethroned Niobe seated on

Mount Sipylus. In the Phrygian country there are on record an inscribed

stone at Bey-Keui, and a sculpture with uncertain hieroglyphs at Doghanlu

Daresi. A relief found at Yarre, representing a ceremonial feast,

conforms with a definite class of Hittite sculptures found elsewhere on

the several sites mentioned in the list above. The same may be said,

though with less confidence, of carved slabs found in the vicinity of

Angora, representing lions, but we exclude the sculptured lion to be

seen near the bridge at Cheshme Keupru. The remarkable thing about the

disposition of these monuments, excluding the reliefs at Angora, is

that they seem to mark out the line of a single road, namely the Royal

Road from Boghaz-Keui to Sardis and the west.[174] The only reasonable

doubt seems to be as to the route from Giaour-Kalesi to Boghaz-Keui,

about which there is no evidence. Some students of the local topography

think it must have gone by way of Angora, in spite of the tradition

(which in the absence of evidence becomes of interest) that Angora was a

comparatively late Phrygian foundation.[175] Others urge[176] that it

was improbable that the road ‘swerved southwards to Giaour-Kalesi,’ an

opinion seemingly forgetful of the road’s objective.[177]

The district westward of Iconium, in which are found the

Lycaonian-Hittite monuments of Eflatoun-Bunar and Fassiler, stands by

itself. But as there is only one clearly Hittite object from this region,

namely a stone inscribed with hieroglyphs in relief, from near Kolitoghlu

Yaila, near Ilgîn, we include this with the main western group.

We now come to the fifth and last group (E) of these arbitrary

divisions, which includes nine sites and several of the most important

monuments.[178] It embraces the whole of the south-western range of

Taurus from the Kara Dagh to Bulghar Dagh, as well as the districts

at its foot, of which in classical times Eregli (Cybistra) Arissama

(Ardistama) and Kilisse Hissar (Tyana) were the more important centres.

The monuments recently discovered on the Kara Dagh might indeed have

been regarded as a group apart; but as this district shares in the

geographical economy of the others, and is a spur of the main Taurus

range, we prefer to class them with the rest. They are found in two

places, firstly, near Mahalich, on the summit of the Kara Dagh, where

there are two inscriptions in relief and a passage in the rock; and

secondly, on the outlying knoll called Kizil Dagh, on which are the

remains of a ‘high place,’ including a rock-throne and an incised seated

figure with three inscriptions; while on the very summit there are

the ruins of a fortress, and an inscription in relief upon the rock.

The monument of Ivrîz, above Eregli, is well known; it is a gigantic

and imposing sculpture of the god of fertility (by whatever name he

may be known) with the local priest-king in adoration; three short

inscriptions accompany the scene. The traces of a second sculpture of

similar character are to be found not far above.[179] At Bulghar-Madên,

on the other side of a lofty ridge, an incised inscription of five

lines is graved upon the living rock. These two monuments seem to have

been connected in some way with Tyana, in the vicinity of which several

inscribed stelæ and sculptures have been found. That from Bor, discovered

in two portions which were rescued at different times, is the best

of these; and an interesting fragment remains at Eski Andaval, where

jealousies and suspicions prevent it from being seen. Nigdeh contributes

an incised altar of round shape. From Tyana itself nothing is reported,

but the antiquity of the site is unquestioned, and its known monuments

reach back to the time of a Phrygian Midas.[180] In this district,

particularly at Bor, numerous small objects of great interest have been

secured, and there is little reason to doubt but that they were found

originally not far away.[181] Further west, in the desert tract of the

eastern extremity of the great salt plains, there are the ruins of

Ardistama; and in the vicinity, near Emir Ghazi, there have been found in

late years an inscription in relief, and three others on round altars.

These are included in the same group on account of their geographical

proximity.

Now that we have completed this preliminary survey of the disposition

of such Hittite monuments as by their character or the circumstances

of their discovery may be accepted by us as evidence in our inquiry,

we realise more clearly the reason for the distinction we made in an

earlier chapter between the eastern and western portions of Asia Minor.

In the West we can speak of only nine monuments, of which four are not

of Hittite origin. Six of these seem to lie along the line of a single

road; and of the others, only one is inscribed with Hittite characters,

and even that is moveable and not found in its original position. If only

by contrast with this paucity, the comparative frequency of monuments

towards the East, and their definite character, naturally inclines us to

assign some tentative boundaries to the Hittite country. In the North

this is not difficult; the Halys River remained in the time of Crœsus a

division between peoples of different race,[182] and Sir William Ramsay

has pointed out[183] differences in important racial customs between the

peoples of the two banks in ancient times.

But to the south there is no such boundary; even the great plains, which

form so prominent a landmark in the map, seem to be more barren now than

in the days when Ardistama flourished.[184] This change is illustrated by

the western extension of the monuments along the foot of the Taurus and

in the desert. We must not forget, also, that whole tracts are eliminated

from our purview from absence of stone; nor should we allow ourselves

to be prepossessed with the idea of divisions on the tableland, which

is, after all, continuous and coterminous. If it is true that nearly

all the evidences of Hittite occupation in the west resolve themselves

into monuments erected along a single road, it is also true that if we

exclude from our view the group of remarkable monuments at Boghaz-Keui

and Eyuk, there remains little sign that the country within the circuit

of the Halys was indeed at any time Hittite territory, much less that

it enclosed their northern capital. In face of such considerations the

great sculptures and fortress of Giaour-Kalesi, the carvings of Doghanlu,

the inscription and tumulus of Bey-Keui, and most striking of all, the

sculptures of the west on Mount Sipylus and in the pass of Kara-Bel, as

well as those monuments in Phrygia and Western Lycaonia which at least

reflect the influence of Hittite art, become imbued with a relative

importance not to be overlooked in our inquiry. The land of the Hittites

is for us as broad as the extent of their works: it is for another phase

of our subject to inquire whether there is evidence to tell us how and

when their territory was acquired, and for how long it remained in their

power.

SECTION A.—MONUMENTS OF THE NORTH OF SYRIA.

HAMATH, RESTAN, ALEPPO; KURTS-OGHLU (ALEXANDRETTA), SINJERLI,

KARA-BURSHLU, SAKJE-GEUZI; AINTAB (KILLIZ), MARASH; JERABLUS, KELLEKLI,

TELL-AHMAR, SAMSAT, RUM KALI (GERGER).

The town of Hamath has grown up where the main road from the north

enters the Orontes valley. This river, in characteristic fashion, flows

for the most part deep below the level of the surrounding plains;

and Hamath is found at a spot where the banks widen out, so that the

town is in a hollow, almost surrounded by escarpments formed of the

steep banks and the broken edges of the plain. Though picturesque, the

position in general can have had little strategic importance, even in

antiquity, being overlooked and exposed. Hence it probably came into

being in Hittite times as an important halting-place upon the main road

through Syria, and as a natural centre for the surrounding agricultural

districts. The original Hittite stronghold would seem to have been more

strongly placed; this probably covered the broad-topped mound[185] which

marks, in the manner so familiar in old Syrian towns, the beginnings of

the site. Doubtless this would be surrounded at a certain stage with a

wall, as was the fashion of those days; and later, on the analogy of

Sinjerli, the population overspread the limits of the enclosure, and

so settled in times of quiet on the tempting ground at the foot of the

acropolis. In this development, and in the nature of its situation,

Hamath shares largely the general features of many Syrian sites. Being

(even now) somewhat out of the way of European travellers, it is curious

that numerous inscriptions should have been noticed here, while a famous

historical site like Kadesh remains unidentified, and a strong natural

position like Restan was until recently without record of Hittite

occupation.[186]

[Illustration: PLATE XXXVII

HAMATH: INSCRIPTION IN THREE LINES OF HITTITE HIEROGLYPHS CARVED IN

RELIEF, ONE OF THE SO-CALLED ‘HAMATHIC’ INSCRIPTIONS (_See p. 95._)

The photograph is taken from a paper impression.]

Whatever may be the explanation, as early as 1812 a black basaltic block

built into the corner of one of the houses in a bazaar attracted the eye

of a famous traveller[187] by reason of the strange-looking hieroglyphic

signs upon it. Sixty years later other stones came to light;[188] some

were built into the modern walls, others lay loose. All were regarded

with veneration by the inhabitants,[189] and it was with great difficulty

that they were removed, in 1872, to a place of safety by the Turkish

Governor through the energetic initiation of Dr. Wright, supported by the

British Consul.

The land of the Hittites · 第 4 / 11 章