DR. MacDANIELS: I say we have always come down to the point, here we
are, where do we go from here and what do we do next? There, in a word,
"Here we are." Lots of discussion, much of it irrelevant. I will just
propose, along the lines I spoke before, that what comes out of this is
that We recommend to the incoming president to organize a survey and
testing campaign along the lines that seem to meet with some agreement;
namely, getting the state vice-presidents busy in finding out the
regional evaluation of different varieties.
Supposing we try black walnuts; just one species for this year, and that
he organize his state according to zones and come up with that
information with regard to that state.
And the other thing would be that these findings be sent to the
committee. We have a committee on surveys and one on judging and
standards, and let that be compiled by them jointly or set up in some
way that would seem to be effective and come up next year with this
overall evaluation along those lines.
I'd make that motion.
DR. COLBY: Second the motion.
DR. MacDANIELS: Any discussions?
DR. ANTHONY: In Pennsylvania two of us have worked full time for a year,
and I am not sure we'd be able to evaluate the black walnut yet.
DR. CRANE: We are not evaluating the black walnut, though.
DR. ANTHONY: You are asking one man to do that, your vice-president.
DR. CRANE: He is to appoint a committee.
DR. MacDANIELS: Any way he chooses to mark them out.
DR. ANTHONY: He is organizing a nut tester association.
DR. MacDANIELS: No, an evaluation association. As I would say, you have
the Ohio Association already formed; that would be their problem to come
up with an answer for their state. We have the Pennsylvania organization
already organized. They will come up with some sort of evaluation: No.
1, Thomas, No. 2, whatever it is, No. 3, whatever it is. Now, in your
other states we don't have an organization; do it some other way. I
don't care how they do it.
DR. CRANE: There are some others in these other states, too, that are
already formed.
Any other discussion?
(Whereupon, a vote on the motion was called for, and it was carried
unanimously.)
MR. SILVIS: Just one thing. It was made with the express purpose that we
start maybe just the black walnut. At the same time in certain areas you
may as well raise a hickory or a Persian right along with the black
walnut, or the filbert.
MR. McDANIEL: No objection, but this year we are surveying the black
walnut named varieties only.
MR. SALZER: I am just a buck private in the rear rank, but we have been
having little local meetings in New York, and they appointed me
vice-president for the State of New York, the Empire State, and here
Ohio has their organization, Pennsylvania has their organization. What
am I going to do? I can work Western New York, but I have got to have
someone to help me in Eastern New York.
DR. MacDANIELS: Take the membership list and take the men who can do it.
DR. CRANE: There are a lot of good men in Eastern New York.
Now, if there isn't anything else, I will turn the meeting back to Dr.
MacDaniels.
DR. MacDANIELS: Thank you, Dr. Crane. I think these talks are good for
the soul. We can let our hair down and know what we all think. And I do
think it's important that we do make some progress on this particular
problem. I think this is one way to do it. There may be a half dozen
ways and other ways better, but at least you have to agree on something
and go on from there.
Now, the meeting in the morning begins at nine o'clock, the full
program.
If there is no further business, then, this session is adjourned.
(Whereupon, at 10 o'clock, p.m., the meeting was adjourned, to reconvene
at 9 o'clock, a. m. the following day, August 29, 1950.)
TUESDAY MORNING SESSION
August 29, 1950
DR. MacDANIELS: I want to make the remark that this isn't church, you
can sit up front if you want to.
The first paper this morning has to do with a nut tree disease that is
bothering a good many of us, I think, particularly in Michigan, as you
recall from Mr. Becker's paper, the Bunch Disease of Walnuts, by Dr. H.
L. Crane and Dr. J. W. McKay. I don't know which one is going to give
it. Dr. McKay?
The Bunch Disease of Walnuts
Discussion
(Manuscript too late for publication.)
(Drs. Crane and McKay reported that there had been little further
development in knowledge regarding the walnut bunch disease since 1948,
when G. F. Gravatt and Donald C. Stout of the U.S.D.A. Division of
Forest Pathology reported on it with illustrations at the N.N.G.A.
meeting (see our report for 1948 pp. 63-66.) Since then the state of
California has prohibited the entry of all walnut nursery trees and
scions from the Rocky Mountain states or farther east.--Ed.)
DR. CRANE: I'd like to make one additional remark. You see, we call this
trouble "bunch disease" rather than "brooming," to distinguish it from
other diseases that are caused by known parasites. We have a disease
very similar to this one affecting walnuts and pecan and hickory, and
that one has been studied more carefully than has the bunch disease. It
is unquestionably caused by virus, and in our pecan orchards we have a
situation that exists that is a parallel to what it is in the black
walnut. The variety Stuart practically never has shown any symptom of
the bunch disease. Yet it performs very much like a lot of our black
walnuts do. They just don't bear; they don't have the proper foliage;
they don't make the proper kind of growth. So we are not sure whether
they are symptomless carriers, that is, in terms of the lack of
expression of virus growth and this bunchy condition on them.
Really, we feel that all people that are interested in the walnuts and
that are trying to grow them should make careful observations on these
trees to study just what the situation is, how it develops, and note the
performance of these trees that become diseased; because we feel that
it's a much more serious thing than people appreciate at the present
time.
In much of Eastern Shore Maryland and of the area around Washington and
Beltsville and over in Virginia, a great majority of the trees are
affected by it, particularly Japanese walnuts of all types and the
butternuts. I feel it is so bad on Japanese walnuts and butternuts that
they shouldn't be propagated in the area.
MR. McDANIEL: I had the bunch growth developed on a new species this
year in my planting in north Alabama, a 12-year-old tree of ~Juglans
rupestris~. It is a growth that looks practically the same as the bunch
disease on the Japanese walnut. I believe that's the first time it's
been observed on that species. There are no butternuts or Japanese
walnuts on the farm. There are dozens of black walnuts (seedlings and
several varieties) none of which show the bunch symptoms. However, it is
typically developed on some Japanese trees a few miles away.
At Whiteville, Tenn., Dr. Aubrey Richards has a suspicious looking tree
among some two year old seedlings of ~Juglans major~ from Arizona seeds.
MR. CHASE: I'd like to add to that, too, Mac. In our walnut arboretum we
had some ~rupestris~, and I had been suspicious of its being diseased for
a number of years. I finally have decided that it had the bunch disease,
and those trees down at Norris have all passed out.
MR. McDANIEL: My tree came from Norris, 10 years ago.
DR. MacDANIELS: ~Juglans rupestris~ killed by the disease.
MR. STOKE: Just because this is a little contradictory to what you have
heard, I want to say that my experience has been this: I have an old
nursery--well, there is a butternut in the row and also heartnut--Japs.
One of those Japs has had the bunch disease for six or eight years. None
of the others has been affected. It was a variety I wanted to
perpetuate. I took an apparently healthy scion from that and put it on
another tree, and that grafted tree also had the disease. But there has
been no evidence of contagion from this Jap to the other Japanese,
butternuts and black walnut in the same planting in the immediate
neighborhood--in fact, they crowd each other. That's a statement of
fact.
I spoke a little while ago of an old black walnut tree that had that
disease for a number of years and none other in that planting had it.
MR. O'ROURKE: Is there any correlation between the age of the tree and
the expression of the disease?
DR. McKAY: It's been our observation that we haven't had it in our
nursery to any extent. We have seen it in the nursery of J. Russell
Smith on Persian walnut. It, to my knowledge, is the only place where we
have seen it on nursery trees. It may be that our nursery happened to be
free of the inoculum, because it's been about a mile from the orchards.
MR. O'ROURKE: Would you by any chance think it might be seed borne?
DR. McKAY: We have no information on that virus.
MR. GILBERT SMITH: I have one statement to put in at this time. Dr.
Crane questioned whether the Japanese walnut should be grown. I wonder
if the Japanese walnut might not be a safeguard in the area where they
don't have the disease, in that you will detect the disease the quickest
on the Japanese walnut, and in that way anyone would become wise to it,
rather than if it was in the black walnut. It might be so insidious that
it could be well spread before persons knew they had it at all. I
wonder if the Japanese walnut, through its quickness in showing the
disease, might not be a safeguard to the other walnuts?
DR. MacDANIELS: That's a technique that's used with some other plants.
MR. CORSAN: I go on the principle that a tree that's well fed might not
resist every disease, but it will resist a great many diseases and most
of the diseases, if it's well fed. Now, the feeding of trees is very
important. I noticed that in going back and forth between Florida and
Toronto. I examine the pecan situation every fall and spring, and just
to think of Stuarts--you know the size of Stuart pecan--coming in good,
big crop of nuts that size (indicating with fingers). Can you see that?
And you know that is less than half the size the Stuart should be. It's
a great nut for cracking by machinery. In fact, a lot of people grow
nothing but Stuart. And last year they had such a crop. Last year I
pointed to a farm right near the highway. "Do you see that? For years I
have been trying to get you to put that sawdust, which is nearly 40 feet
high in a pile, around your pecans and see the vast difference in your
pecans." You know there was no rain down there all last summer, and the
pecans were half the proper size. Now, that sawdust would keep the
moisture in. I am a great believer in the use of sawdust. It's a tree
product itself and it has some of the constituents of what the pecan
should feed on.
As Dr. Waite told us one time in Washington--you will probably remember
the remark he made about the pecan trees in an orchard which were
absolutely fruitless year after year. He went through that orchard, and
he saw a pecan here and a pecan there that had a good, big crop right
among the empty trees. He examined them and found signs driven into the
trees, and some of the signs were put up with zinc covered nails. Those
signs that had the steel covered nails had no nuts on, but those that
had zinc in had a huge crop. It excited the growth of the female
blossom.
Now, we have got an awful lot to discover, as you gentlemen say in this
nut culture, way beyond the imagination of the human mind.
DR. MacDANIELS: We had better limit discussion to this particular
problem. Is there more comment?
MR. McDANIEL: On that problem, I have observed the brooming in the
heartnut seedlings about three years old, which were seedlings of the
Fodermaier variety growing at Norris in the late 30's. Brooming
developed in some of them in either the second or third year from seed.
DR. MacDANIELS: That answers their remark about the young trees.
MR. SLATE: A plant that is well fed and making very vigorous growth may
be more attractive to the insect vector. Therefore, a healthy tree might
take it.
MR. McDANIEL: These trees were very vigorous.
DR. MacDANIELS: How many growers of nut trees have this bunch disease on
their property?
MR. KINTZEL: Black walnuts?
DR. MacDANIELS: On anything at all. (Showing of hands.) There are at
least a dozen.
When Mr. Burgart up in Michigan finds out that the limiting factor
practically cleans him out, there is this question of bunch disease with
witches'-broom resulting from ground deficiency. I know in the Wright
plantings in the vicinity of Westfield they had brooming trees of the
Japanese walnut which apparently recovered after treatment with zinc.
And, of course, we know on the West Coast you get witches'-broom in the
Persian walnut which cannot be cured by zinc.
Is there any other discussion on this point?
(No response.)
We will go on to the next paper.
MR. CORSAN: Anybody passing through Toronto can drop in and see my
Japanese walnuts with 24 to the cluster and not a sign of bunch disease.
DR. MacDANIELS: Yes, you may not have the bunch disease near you. We
hope you haven't.
The next paper is by J. A. Adams, who is from the Experiment Station
here at Poughkeepsie. This experiment station is a branch of the Geneva
Agricultural Experiment Station. I believe that's right, isn't it, Mr.
Adams?
MR. ADAMS: That's right, and it is concerned primarily with the fruits
down here in this region.
DR. MacDANIELS: His subject is "Some Observations on the Japanese Beetle
on Nut Trees." Let me say Mr. Adams would like to show some slides, but
it didn't seem feasible to close this window down.
The Japanese Beetle and Nut Growing
J. A. ADAMS
Associate Professor of Entomology, New York State Agricultural
Experiment Station, Geneva and Poughkeepsie, New York
It is a pleasure to attend this meeting of the Northern Nut Growers.
Association and to take part in your program. I shall discuss the
Japanese beetle as it seems to affect nut culture, and outline our
methods of control.
The Japanese beetle evidently came into this country in the soil about
some roots of plants imported to a nursery near Philadelphia nearly 40
years ago. Since 1916, its distribution, habits, and control have been
closely studied by the federal Japanese Beetle Laboratory at Moorestown,
New Jersey. The insect has become generally distributed in the coastal
area, as far north as Massachusetts, as far south as Virginia, and as
far west as West Virginia. Beyond these limits, it has established local
colonies in New Hampshire, Vermont, Western New York, Ohio, Michigan,
and North Carolina. In most of the states affected there is an
investigator who, like myself, carries on local studies, more or less in
cooperation with the federal laboratory. In New York we now have, in
addition to the generally infested areas on Long Island and in the
Hudson Valley, about 50 isolated infestations in the central and western
parts of the state.
Might I have a showing of hands by those who have Japanese beetle
already? (Showing of hands.) There is quite a sprinkling of you who have
them. Many of you do not have them yet, but, since the insect is
spreading every year, you can expect them some day, especially if you
live in the Northeast. It is expected that this pest will not thrive in
the drier central States, but it might become established in the Pacific
States some day, unless prevented.
You can see these beetles anywhere in and around Poughkeepsie. From
Poughkeepsie I have watched them spread in the past few years to
Pleasant Valley and eastward. This morning as I parked my vehicle by
this building I picked these specimens from the smartweed, ~Polygonum
persicaria~. (Passing of specimens.) These insects also feed on the
flowers and foliage of purple loosestrife, ~Lythrum salicifolia~, so
plentiful and showy in our swampy fields. The most conspicuous damage is
done to the foliage of wild grape vines. You will observe this when you
visit Mr. Stephen Bernath's nut plantation. You will note the
conspicuous defoliation of the vines on the fence rows. Willow is
another host heavily attacked. I believe you have the beetles at your
plantation at Wassaic, Mr. Smith?
MR. GILBERT SMITH: Plenty of them.
DR. ADAMS: You will also observe the damage at Mr. Smith's place. You
will see that it is strictly a matter of skeletonization of the leaves.
A MEMBER: They eat the fruit, too.
DR. MacDANIELS: You have damage on fruit.
A MEMBER: They eat berries.
DR. ADAMS: Yes, but on nut plants the damage above ground is confined to
leaf skeletonization. It varies widely, depending on the kind of nut
plant. Before visiting Mr. Bernath's planting, I sought out the
botanical names of the commoner nut plants in Dr. MacDaniels' Cornell
Extension Bulletin No. 701, on "Nut Growing." Of the ~Juglans~ species,
the black walnut, ~J. nigra~, is sometimes heavily attacked. There are
large black walnut trees near one of our peach orchards. I have seen
hordes of beetles gather in these trees in July and August,
skeletonizing the leaves until the defoliation reached 40% or more. Late
in August the beetles seemed to leave the walnut foliage and descend
upon the ripening peaches. The heart nut, ~J. sieboldiana~ var.
~cordiformis~, was moderately fed upon at Mr. Bernath's nursery. The
butternut, ~J. cinerea~, is only lightly attacked, as a rule.
The hickories and pecans are not attacked to any appreciable extent, but
at least some of the chestnuts are very attractive to this pest. I have
seen shoots of ~Castanea dentata~ with their foliage reduced to lace. Some
of the small Chinese chestnuts, ~C. mollissima~, at Mr. Bernath's place,
were about one-fourth defoliated in mid-August.
The hazels seem to be attractive to these beetles. When the Japanese
beetle spreads to Prof. Slate's plantings of ~Corylus~ at Geneva, we may
get more information on varietal preferences. I find that exposed
foliage of ~C. americana~, the common wild hazel here, is sometimes fairly
heavily fed upon. I am holding up to the window a portion of a hazel
bush; you can see that the leaves along one side are skeletonized. It is
probable that the species, hybrids, and varieties of ~Corylus~ will show
the same marked variation in susceptibility that is shown in so many
other genera of plants.
Among the oaks, the pin oak, ~Quercus Palustris~, and the English oak, ~Q.
robur~, are commonly one-third defoliated while the common white and red
oaks are almost immune. Among the maples--to go farther afield from
nuts--the Norway, ~Acer platanoides~, and the Japanese, ~A. palmatum~, are
often severely injured, where the sugar maple, ~A. saccharum~, is only
lightly injured and the delicate-leaved red maple and silver maple, ~A.
rubrum~ and ~A. saccharinum~, remain untouched.
Since the Japanese beetle is here to stay, and to spread, these
differences are worth considering where plant materials are being
selected for new ornamental plantings. In our bulletin on Japanese
beetle (Cornell Extension Bulletin 770) we have to warn the reader that
planting chestnuts may bring him trouble with the Japanese beetle,
trouble which he would not have with flowering dogwood, ~Cornus florida~,
or the common lilacs, ~Syringa vulgaris~, which are immune to this pest.
It may be, however, that some of the chestnuts carry immunity factors.
In the U. S. Department of Agriculture Circular No. 547, published in
1940, "Feeding Habits of the Japanese Beetle," by I. M. Hawley and F. W.
Metzger, ~Castanea crenata~, the Japanese chestnut, is listed with beech
and chestnut oak as "generally lightly injured." I understand you
consider the nut of this species poor, but if resistance factors are in
the genus, there can be hope of finding or developing a chestnut
resistant to Japanese beetle.
We might be able to do with chestnuts what has been done with poplars.
The common poplars range from the Lombardy, ~Populus nigra italica~, which
is heavily damaged by the beetle, to the white, ~P. alba~, which is
immune. The forest geneticist, E. J. Schreiner, has written an article,
"Poplars can be bred to order," which appears on pages 153 to 157 in
"Trees," the Yearbook of Agriculture for 1949, published by the U. S.
Department of Agriculture. Schreiner provides an interesting diagram of
random planting of 102 poplar hybrids, in plots of 50 trees each,
representing 30 parentages. He writes, "Japanese beetle infestation was
heavy in ~1947~; as late as September 9 beetles were as numerous as 10 to
12 per leaf on the most susceptible plants. Although the insects were
feeding everywhere on the sparsely scattered weeds growing under the
hybrids, beetle feeding was found on only nine hybrids, representing
four parentages. Three of these parentages include hybrids that were
entirely free of beetle feeding during the entire infestation." Among
five hybrids of ~P. charkowiensis~ and ~P. caudina~, three were highly
susceptible, one moderately susceptible and one was non-susceptible.
Japanese beetles, when infesting rows of plants of the same variety,
usually occur unevenly on the individual plants. Some of the factors
have to do with the vigor or color of the tree. In my observation on
peach, I have repeatedly seen a sickly, yellow and half-wilted tree with
thousands of beetles in it, while other similar but healthy trees in the
same row averaged only a few hundred beetles. You can make one branch of
a tree more attractive to the insects than the rest of the branches by
partly girdling it or permitting borers or cankers to damage the base of
the branch. This observation suggests that the increased sugar content
raises the attractiveness of the leaf. It coincides with what is already
known that extracts of plants preferred by the Japanese beetle have, in
general, a higher sugar content, or more of a fruit-like odor than those
not attacked. (Metzger et al, Jour. Agric. Research, ~49~ (11): 1001-1008.
1934. Washington, D. C.)
There are other observations you can easily make yourselves. The
Japanese beetle avoids shade, except on the hottest days, and its
feeding in dense trees shows up most in the tops; its feeding on uniform
plantings tends to show up most in the edge rows. Nursery-size trees are
more extensively defoliated than larger ones. At this point we must
consider that the insect usually has to fly into a planting from the
outside, for it breeds chiefly in lawns and meadows. If the foliage mass
of the nut planting is small and the grass areas nearby are large, the
beetles are likely to do heavier damage than where the planting is very
large and grass areas negligible. A small planting in a suburban area,
beside a large golf course, cemetery or dairy farm, is going to be more
heavily attacked than a large one set in a clearing in the woods.
~Control of the adult:~ The safest, most direct measure is to pick or
knock the beetles off the plants, preferably in the early morning, when
they are cool. They may be dropped in a pail with a little kerosene in
it. Some plants can be shielded with thin nets which can be placed on
them by day. We do not recommend Japanese beetle traps. These yellow
traps, which are baited with geranoil and other essential oils, can draw
beetles in from a considerable distance but we have found that, possibly
because many beetles miss the trap, the population of beetles remains
high near the trap, in spite of heavy daily catches. Although the use of
one trap to the acre on a block 10 miles square would probably get
results, the use of a few traps on a small nut planting is likely to be
disappointing.
A MEMBER: Will birds or any kind of poultry eat them?
DR. ADAMS: Yes, poultry will eat them, as far as they can reach. Certain
birds, of course, will feed on them to some extent, but birds, in
summer, seem to have plenty of other things to eat, and they certainly
leave plenty of beetles in plain sight uneaten. We can see that the
birds are a fairly constant helpful factor, but are not to be relied
upon to prevent injury occurring in a beetle outbreak.
Rotenone, which, I believe, is one of your main insecticides in nut
culture, is fairly effective on Japanese beetles. It kills the beetles
hit with the spray and gives protection for several days thereafter. If
you apply it often enough, rotenone can take care of the plants so that
they don't become disfigured by the beetles. Using cube powder, you may
apply five ounces of 4% rotenone in 10 gallons of water. Of course, in
many cases there is no objection to using DDT wetable powder or dusts,
unless you are afraid of a mite problem arising after DDT is used. If
DDT can be sprayed on the plants, it needs to be applied only about
three times during a summer, or sometimes only twice. For plants that
are growing very fast, the new growth, of course, has to be kept
treated. You may prefer to spray once heavily over all the plants in
July and then, after that, keep the beetles off by spraying or dusting
the new growth, during August. For more directions see U.S.D.A. Farmers
Bulletin No. 2004.
Now, there are new chemicals that will kill Japanese beetles very
quickly. Parathion will kill them, but its toxicity necessitates great
care in handling and, on peaches, we find it protects the plants for
only a few days. Chlordane, which has a very important use in connection
with these insects in the grub stage, is not recommended above ground;
it is too brief in its action. Methoxychlor may be used instead of DDT.
It is less effective, but much less poisonous, and should be applied
more frequently.
Now, the other aspect of control is to try to reduce beetle production
over the whole area so that you don't have so many beetles flying in to
the plants during the summer and you don't have to spray so frequently,
if at all. This is the phase to which I wish to give particular
attention, after we consider the life history.
~Life history:~ The Japanese beetles in the adult stage are in evidence
here from late June to late September, or, roughly, for the summer
season. The adults lay their eggs in the soil, mostly in lawns, mowed
grassy fields and pastures. The adults die but the eggs give rise to
tiny, bluish-gray larvae which feed chiefly on grass roots. The larvae
grow through the fall and spring, and, if more numerous than about 40 to
the square foot in September, or about 25 in April and May, can cause
severe lawn damage.
MR. CORSAN: That's the stage when the pheasants and starlings eat them.
DR. ADAMS: Yes, in the grub stage.
MR. CORSAN: I see thousands of starlings gorging themselves.
DR. ADAMS: Yes, scratching birds, crows and skunks can take them out;
the starlings make a hole the size of a pencil point to do so. In our
survey areas grub populations sometimes seem to drop rapidly in May,
when the birds are feeding their nestlings. In June, the surviving
larvae mostly change into pupae, and by July they are appearing as
beetles. From the lawns and grassy fields they readily fly to weeds,
shrubs, grapevines and trees. They fly at least a few hundred yards, if
need be, to find their host plants. Well kept, sunny, lawns with good,
moist soil, which carry 40 grubs to the square foot in the fall may
still have plenty at transformation time in early summer. A lawn of
5,000 square feet could thus produce 100,000 beetles. Yards, roadways
and pastures commonly produce as many as six beetles to the square foot,
which means a quarter million to the acre.
~Chemical control in the grub stage:~ In New York we suggest that on a
home property the more valuable sections of permanent lawn be
grub-proofed with chemicals as soon as there are 5 to 10 grubs to the
square foot. This grub-proofing has two effects: (a) it stops beetle
production from that lawn, and (b) it prevents the lawn grass being
damaged by the grubs of this and other annual grub species and by the
birds and animals, including moles, which damage grubby turf. For
grub-proofing I prefer to use chlordane. It may be applied in a spray,
at 8 ounces of 50% wettable powder to 1,000 square feet, or it may be
purchased in the more bulky 5% form and applied dry with a two-wheeled
lawn fertilizer spreader. For each 1,000 square feet I take 5 pounds of
5% chlordane and, since it tends to clog the spreader, I mix it in a
cardboard drum with 5 pounds of a dry, granular material such as the
activated-sludge fertilizer known as "Milorganite." The ten pounds of
mixture is then spread on the 1,000 square feet, half east and west,
half north and south.
If applied in the fall or early spring there will be no beetles coming
out in July and no grubs for several years. DDT at 6 pounds of 10% DDT
to 1,000 square feet will give an even longer grub-proofing effect. Our
plots so treated in 1944 are still grub-free. The possible trouble with
DDT is that it is too nearly permanent, and if you should plow up a
piece of lawn treated with it and try to raise tomatoes or strawberries,
you might find the soil too toxic.
~Biological control in the grub stage:~ The chemical grub-proofing of the
sunny parts of the front or main lawn on a property is desirable for the
reasons stated, but it does not usually stop more than a fifth of the
beetle production around the property, because there are usually plenty
of neighbors' lawns, pastures, public grounds, and other
beetle-producing turf areas nearby. How are you to reduce the beetle
crop on these places, mostly on ground you don't control? Here is where
biological control comes in, something which I feel will appeal to you
in this group. The parasitic insects known as spring Tiphia, imported
from the Orient and well established on hundreds of estates, golf
courses, and cemeteries around Philadelphia and New York, may be
introduced in your vicinity when grubs reach about 5 to the square foot.
The parasites, which are like flying ants, appear above ground in spring
and feed on honey-dew. The female burrows in the soil and attaches her
eggs singly to Japanese beetle grubs. A maggot hatches and consumes the
grub. I have charge of the distribution of these parasites in New York.
I like to liberate at least one colony in each village or town division.
Some of you may help me plan the liberation for your vicinity, possibly
on a cemetery near your place. The colonies enlarge to about a square
mile in 10 years, and may cut beetle production by 50%.
Another biological agent which can be added to grub-carrying turf is the
bacterium causing Japanese beetle grubs to turn milky white and die. A
powder is made from diseased grubs and talc and this milky disease spore
inoculum is applied with a teaspoon in dots or spots over the turf. The
important point is that the spore powder must be used on a plot where
there are grubs to get the disease, and not on chemically grub-proofed
soil. Milky disease spore powder is sold under three brand names,
"Japidemic," "Japonex" and "Sawco-Japy." One-half pound, suitably
applied, will cost you about $2.50 and be an act of good citizenship,
for the disease slowly spreads to any grubby soil in surrounding
properties. I can supply addresses of the producers and detailed
reprints of my studies.
Discussion
MR. McDANIEL: Does this disease affect any other beetles we have in
America, besides the Japanese?
MR. ADAMS: Yes, one other species; it causes some sickness in the grubs
of the turf pest known as the Oriental beetle.
MR. McDANIEL: How about the green June beetle?
DR. ADAMS: No, unfortunately, it doesn't work on that beetle, which is a
pest on Long Island and in the South.
A MEMBER: How much area would a (1/2-pound) can like that treat?
DR. ADAMS: It depends. You can apply a half-pound to a quarter acre, or
any smaller space you want to put it on. If you want to put spots down
closer together, say every three feet, it will treat about 1,000 square
feet. It suggests on the label that you do. But if you treat a plot on a
large field, I'd recommend you put it out at about a teaspoonful every
ten feet. In other words, I wouldn't put less than a half-pound on the
plot set aside for it on my place. The application is just a starter to
introduce the disease in the area, and it doesn't matter too much
whether you spot it at 10-foot intervals on a pasture or put it at
fairly close intervals on an area about the size of this room. The point
is that it mustn't be broadcast, because that spreads the spores too
thin. Grubs don't get the disease if they eat only a few spores. We
assume that where you put the spots down on the ground the grubs under
those spots will get the disease and wander off and die. When a grub
dies, it multiplies the number of spores up to many millions. That
portion of soil becomes infective, and more grubs going through the
infective portions carry the disease to intervening areas until the
whole piece of turf is unhealthful to these grubs. Droppings of birds
feeding on sick grubs spread the disease.
MR. FRYE: One application is all that's needed?
DR. ADAMS: One application is all that's needed. Control is slight at
first, but increases with the passage of the years.
MR. CORSAN: Quail feed on them. Why can't we have quail around the farms
instead of shooting them?
DR. ADAMS: I would be for that, but we have to find other methods for a
lot of people. Besides, we need something that will intercept some of
the grubs in the fall, before they get big. After all, by the time the
quail are interested in them, they have already done some damage in the
ground. In the ground the grubs can do two kinds of damage. They can
make turf loose so it can be rolled back like a rug. Second, if you
should plow up a piece of sod that has many grubs in it and try to plant
row crops or nursery stock, they may eat the roots off the planting in
the spring.
DR. McKAY: I'd like to ask what effect low temperature has on them and
how far north you think will be their limit?
DR. ADAMS: The soil temperature at which the grubs begin to die in
hibernation is 15 degrees, and I have never seen the soil temperature
that low here under turf. (I operate a soil thermograph on my lawn.)
A MEMBER: How far down do they go?
DR. ADAMS: They hibernate at 4 to 8 inches in the ground. It's rare to
have it drop below 27 degrees at these depths.
MR. STERLING SMITH: What do you mean, Fahrenheit?
DR. ADAMS: That is Fahrenheit.
A MEMBER: That's frozen solid. That's at 32 degrees.
DR. ADAMS: The deeper soil will drop only a few degrees below freezing.
The soil here usually remains no lower than 32 degrees, except within an
inch or two of the top.
A MEMBER: Do you think soil temperature is going to be a limiting
factor?
DR. ADAMS: I think the limiting factor northward is the coolness of the
summers. In Northern Japan their life history gets altered because of
the shortness of the summer, and I think in the Adirondack area they
won't be serious for that reason.
MR. WEBER: Will this spore powder kill other kinds of grubs that are in
the sod?
DR. ADAMS: Not to any practical extent. It does not control the grubs of
the "June bugs," or brown June beetles, or what are called "white
grubs."
MR. LOWERRE: Would the DDT kill the parasitic wasps?
DR. ADAMS: Turf treated with chlordane or DDT is grub-proofed and is not
of any use to the flying parasites as a place to lay eggs, or for
bacteria to multiply. So we don't want to put chemicals on top of
biological control plots. For instance, on an average home property I
would treat the front lawn, the more valuable piece, with chemicals so
that it would be 100% grub-proofed to protect the turf and to take that
much turf out of beetle production. Then on the back lawns or grassy
fields adjoining, I would apply at least a half-pound of this milky
disease material, and in that way provide a complete treatment; the
parasites can be added on some large public turf area nearby. And don't
think you are going to stamp the Japanese beetle out just by spraying
all the adult beetles you see each summer on the cultivated plants,
because there are lots more on the shade trees, weeds and vines.
A new book, "The Insect Enemies of Eastern Forests," contains a great
deal of information on the insects feeding on nut trees. Unfortunately,
it isn't indexed to crops, so you can't look up "walnut" and find what
insects bother you. You have to know what the insect is, and you will
find it with its insect family. That is U. S. Department of Agriculture
Miscellaneous Publication 657, by George E. Craighead. Price $2.50, from
the Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C.
MR. CORSAN: What in the world has become of the black walnut
caterpillar, that big, black fellow with the grey hairs?
DR. ADAMS: Maybe they are at a low point in a cycle. Mr. Bernath will
show you a few of them.
MR. CORSAN: He might show me a few of them, but I have been pestered
with them for years, and this year I haven't got any.
DR. ADAMS: I suppose natural conditions have taken care of them for a
while, but they will come back again.
(Applause.)
DR. MacDANIELS: Thank you, very much, sir. We will take a few minutes
recess now.
(Whereupon, a short recess was taken.)
Editor's Note: The following paper which was delayed, was originally
scheduled for our 1949 Report.
Insecticides for Nut Insects
E. H. SIEGLER United States Department of Agriculture Agricultural
Research Administration Bureau of Entomology and Plant Quarantine
Fortunately, the growers of nuts do not have to combat a large number of
injurious insect species. However, some species do at times cause a
heavy loss of nuts and may also damage the vegetation growth of the
trees. Injury by insects will vary from year to year, due to various
causes, and insects frequently show varietal host preferences. Timely
use of insecticides is the most effective means of combating many
harmful species.
Until the beginning of World War II a rather limited number of
insecticides was available, such as lead arsenate, cryolite, nicotine,
mineral oil emulsions, and rotenone. Some injurious insects were
satisfactorily controlled through the timely application of one or the
other of these materials, or combinations of them; others survived in
damaging numbers in spite of all attempts to suppress them.
During and since World War II, both in the United States and abroad,
work on insecticides has been stepped up markedly. As a result, many new
insecticides have been developed and are available for general use.
The first of the new insecticides about which we heard was DDT.
Actually, the compound itself was not a new one, since it was prepared
by a German student chemist in 1874. However, no use was found for it
until 1939, when a Swiss chemist found it promising as an insecticide
against the Colorado potato beetle. It was first tested in the United
States a few years later.
Since the successful introduction of DDT, promising new insecticides
have become available more frequently and in greater numbers than ever
before. Among these materials are certain chlorinated hydrocarbons
related to DDT. These include methoxychlor and TDE, neither of which is,
on the whole, as useful as DDT but both of which are of value and have
an important advantage over DDT in that they are reported to be less
toxic to warm-blooded animals. Other new chlorinated hydrocarbons
include benzene hexachloride, synthesized in 1828 and first tested
against insects in France in 1941 and discovered about the same time in
England; chlordane, developed in the United States a few years ago; and
toxaphene. Several organic phosphorus compounds, including hexaethyl
tetraphosphate, tetraethyl pyrophosphate, and parathion, have also been
developed.
Technical benzene hexachloride is a mixture of several isomers, the
gamma isomer being the most toxic to insects. The practically pure
isomer is known as lindane. A handicap to the general use of benzene
hexachloride on fruit is its tendency to cause off-flavor condition when
applied too close to harvest. Lindane is less likely to cause off-flavor
in fruit than technical benzene hexachloride but may not overcome this
fault altogether.
The organic phosphate insecticides, like DDT, were first found of value
in Europe and were introduced into the United States after the close of
World War II. Parathion in particular shows great promise for the
control of many insect pests. Although these compounds are very
poisonous and must be handled strictly in accordance with the
manufacturers' recommendations, a recent announcement by Arnold J.
Lehman, of the Food and Drug Administration, indicates that their
residues are not likely to be harmful. He has stated that "parathion is
not stored in the tissues to an appreciable extent--it is rapidly
destroyed by the tissues of the body which in turn is an added mechanism
for the prevention of tissue accumulation." Residues of hexaethyl
tetraphosphate and tetraethyl pyrophosphate persist for only a short
time and residues of parathion drop to a low level within 10 to 14 days
after application. This information, however, does not make it
unnecessary for the user to observe strictly all warnings and
precautions issued by the manufacturers of parathion and of other
organic phosphates. Serious effects and deaths have occurred though
excessive exposures to parathion.
General Information Regarding the Use of the New Organic Insecticides
~Handling the insecticides.~ All the new organic insecticides, the organic
phosphates in particular, are to some degree toxic not only to many
insects but to man and animals as well. Even the most toxic ones can be
used, however, without harmful effects on the operator, provided all the
cautions issued by the manufacturer are properly followed. Special care
must be taken in handling concentrated insecticides preparatory to
making diluted spray or dust applications.
~Spray concentrations.~ DDT has been used more extensively than any of the
other newer insecticides and for this reason there is considerable
information relative to the spray concentrations known to be effective
against insects susceptible to it. For spray purposes DDT is generally
employed at the rate of 1-1/2 to 4 pounds of 50 percent wettable powder
per 100 gallons of water.
Parathion is being used at 1/2 to 1-1/2 pounds of 15 percent wettable
powder per 100 gallons of water for mites and up to 2 pounds to 100
gallons of water for insects more resistant to it. The occurrence of
injury to the foliage and fruit of some varieties of apples when this
insecticide is used is under investigation.
Benzene hexachloride (10 percent gamma isomer, wettable) is being used
at 2 to 4 pounds, and sometimes less depending upon the insect, per 100
gallons of water. Wettable mixtures containing 25 percent of lindane
(approximately pure gamma isomer) are used at dosages which would give
an equivalent quantity of the gamma isomer in the diluted spray.
Chlordane is usually employed at the rate of 2 to 3 pounds of 50 percent
wettable powder and toxaphene at 2 to 4 pounds of 40 percent wettable
powder per 100 gallons.
These insecticides are also being sold for use as dusts, either ready to
use or in a more concentrated form which can be reduced to dusting
strength through the addition of inert material.
~Spray Residues.~ Spray residues are not important on nut crops, but on
fruits it is important to time the insecticide applications so that
harmful residues are avoided. Animals should not be allowed to graze
vegetation beneath trees recently treated. Instructions on the packaged
insecticide should be followed.
~Effect on beneficial insects.~ Since the more potent of the newer organic
insecticides are toxic to many parasitic and predatory insects, all of
which help to reduce the populations of injurious species, these
insecticides, if used, must be largely relied upon to effect control by
themselves. Often no immediate assistance is forthcoming from beneficial
insects after these materials have been used.
Nut Insect Investigations
Except for studies on the chestnut weevils, nut insect investigations by
the Bureau of Entomology and Plant Quarantine are being conducted
primarily on the pecan at southern laboratories. Many of the remarks in
this paper are therefore based on information obtained from these
laboratories. In view of the short time the new organic insecticides
have been available, work to determine their place in nut insect control
programs is largely in the experimental stage. Much further work will be
necessary before detailed instructions can be given for their general
use.
Insects Attacking the Nuts
~The Pecan weevil.~ The adult of the pecan weevil[8] is a snout beetle
that attacks not only pecan throughout the South but also hickory in the
eastern half of the United States. During mid-season, previous to the
formation of the kernel, nuts are frequently punctured for feeding
purposes. This results in failure of the nuts to complete their
development. The principal injury, however, is caused by grubs that
develop from eggs laid in the nuts after the kernels have formed. This
is usually during September on pecans in the South. The grubs feed on
the kernels and may consume them completely (Fig. 1).
[8] ~Curculio caryae~ (Horn).
Applications of sprays containing 6 pounds of 50 percent DDT wettable
powder per 100 gallons of water just previous to and during the
oviposition period have proved effective against this pest.
[Illustration: Fig 1.--Nut infested with larvae of the pecan weevil.]
[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Larva of the butternut curculio in Japanese
walnut shoot.]
[Illustration: Fig. 3--Adults of the walnut husk maggot on black walnut.
Enlarged.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4.--Adult of a leaf-footed bug. Enlarged.]
[Illustration: Fig. 5.--Defoliation caused by the black pecan aphid.]
Nut curculios. Several species of curculios, such as the butternut
curculio[9] (Fig. 2) and the hickorynut curculio,[10] infest the fruit
of these and other nut trees. Their life histories and methods of attack
are somewhat alike and for the purpose of this report the butternut
curiculio is given as an example. This insect lays its eggs in both
the young shoots and nuts, which usually drop as a result of the injury.
The larvae then develop to maturity within the dying tissues after which
they enter the soil and transform to adults. Subsequently they leave the
soil to pass the winter above ground protected from low temperatures by
weeds or other vegetation.
[9] ~Conotrachelus juglandis~ Lee.
[10] ~Conotrachelus affinis~ Boh.
Lead arsenate, 4 pounds per 100 gallons of water, has been relied upon
in the past for control of various nut curculios. Among the newer
insecticides, benzene hexachloride (6 percent gamma), 4 to 6 pounds per
100 gallons, has shown promise against a shoot curculio on pecans when
applied soon after the trees start growth in the spring.
~Hickory shuckworm.~ The hickory shuckworm[11] is another serious pest of
pecan and hickory nuts. Early in the year, previous to the hardening of
the shells, the kernels are eaten. This injury causes many of the nuts
to drop. In the fall, the later generations tunnel within and feed upon
the shucks only. The affected nuts are usually smaller than normal; in
addition the shells are often stained and are more difficult to separate
from the husks.
[11] ~Laspeyresia caryana~ (Fitch).
Extensive experimentation in the control of this insect has been carried
out without much success. No effective insecticide treatment can be
recommended for its control.
~Walnut husk maggot.~ The adult of the walnut husk maggot[12] is a fly
(Fig. 3); it is related to other injurious fruit flies such as the apple
maggot, Mediterranean fruit fly, and the oriental fruit fly, which has
recently been found in Hawaii. Adults emerge from the soil and fly to
the trees in midsummer. Egg laying follows in 1 to 3 weeks, the eggs
being deposited on the husks of several kinds of nuts. The maggots feed
within the husks. Not only is the quality of infested nuts lowered, but,
in addition, the husks are more difficult to remove. A closely related
species is particularly damaging to the Persian or English walnut in
California.
[12] ~Rhagoletis suavis~ Loew.
Lead arsenate, 2 to 4 pounds per 100 gallons of water, in combination
with an equal quantity of hydrated lime is quite effective in destroying
the adults of the walnut husk maggot when applied at the time they are
present.
~Stinkbugs and leaf-footed bugs.~ There are a number of stinkbugs and
leaf-footed bugs (Fig. 4), in addition to the species mentioned,[13][14]
which are responsible for important injuries to pecans, filberts, and
other nuts. These insects puncture the immature nuts with their beaks.
The punctured areas become spongy, somewhat dark in color, and are
bitter to the taste; on pecan the typical injury is referred to as black
pit and kernel spot.
[13] ~Nezara vizidula~ (L.).
[14] ~Leptoglossus phyllopus~ (L.).
Crops of favorable host plants such as cowpeas and soybeans should not
be planted in or adjacent to nut orchards subject to attack by these
sucking bugs. In general, orchard sanitation should be practiced.
[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Galls produced by the pecan phylloxera.]
[Illustration: Fig. 7.--Injury to young pecan tree by the fall webworm.]
[Illustration: Fig. 8.--Larvae of the walnut caterpillar.]
[Illustration: Fig. 9.--Caterpillar of the hickory tussock moth.]
[Illustration: Fig. 10.--Rose chafer beetles on chestnut blossoms.]
Insects Attacking the Foliage
~Black pecan aphid.~ Pecan trees at times suffer sufficient damage from
the black pecan aphid[15] to cause considerable defoliation (Fig. 5)
during the latter part of the season. The injury to foliage in its
earlier stages consists of irregularly shaped yellowish areas which turn
brown when the tissues die.
[15] ~Melanocallis caryaefoliae~ (Davis).
This aphid is usually controlled with nicotine sulfate (40 percent
nicotine), 3/8 pint plus summer oil emulsion, 2 quarts per 100 gallons
of spray. Parathion and benzene hexachloride have given good results in
experimental work but are not yet generally recommended.
~Pecan phylloxera.~ The pecan phylloxera[16] is related to aphids. It
attacks principally the vegetative parts of the tree such as the leaves,
petioles, and shoots on which galls (Fig. 6) are produced. Pecans,
hickories, and other species of nuts are subject to infestation.
[16] ~Phylloxera devastatrix~ Perg.
In the past a spray of nicotine sulfate (40 percent nicotine) 13 ounces
combined with either lime-sulfur solution, 2-1/2 gallons per 100 gallons
of water, or lubricating-oil emulsion, 2 quarts per 100 gallons, applied
in the late dormant period has been the standard recommendation. In
recent experiments in the South with some of the new organic sprays,
benzene hexachloride and some of the dinitro compounds have indicated
good promise.
~Fall webworm,~[17] ~walnut caterpillar,~[18] ~and hickory tussock
moth.~[19] The caterpillars of these species (Figs. 7, 8, 9) are
frequent pests on the foliage of nut trees. They often defoliate entire
branches.
[17] ~Hyphantria cunea~ (Drury).
[18] ~Datana integerrima~ (G. and R.)
[19] ~Halisidota caryae~ (Harr.)
The best time to apply control measures is as soon as possible after the
caterpillars hatch. The insects can be readily destroyed with lead
arsenate, 3 pounds, or DDT (2 pounds) of 50 percent wettable powder, per
100 gallons, applied when they appear. Other new organic insecticides
may also be effective but have not been widely tested.
~The rose chafer and Japanese beetle.~ Adults of the rose chafer[20] (Fig.
10) and the Japanese beetle[21] are voracious feeders on the foliage of
nut trees and must be destroyed if severe injury is to be avoided.
[20] ~Marcordactylus subspinosus~ (F.).
[21] ~Popillia japonica~ Newm.
Fortunately these insects may now be controlled by spraying with DDT, 2
pounds of 50-percent wettable powder per 100 gallons of water, when the
beetles appear. In the case of the Japanese beetle a second application
may be necessary if the infestation is heavy.
~Spider mites.~ Nut trees, especially those which have been sprayed with
DDT, may become seriously injured by various species of mites.[22] DDT
is very toxic to the natural insect enemies of plant-feeding mites and
therefore the mites build up to injurious numbers.
[22] ~Tetranychus~ sp. and others.
Of the various miticides recently tested on pecan, a spray of parathion
was the most promising. In some recent tests for the control of spider
mites on chestnut trees, 1-1/2 pounds of 15 percent parathion wettable
powder per 100 gallons of water was effective. Do not use parathion
unless you observe all the precautions contained on the package label of
the material.
[Illustration: Fig. 11.--Larva of the twig girdler. Enlarged.]
[Illustration: Fig. 12.--Adult of the flatheaded apple tree borer.
Enlarged.]
[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Larvae of the flatheaded apple tree borer.]
[Illustration: Fig. 14.--Scars on trunk of pecan tree caused by cutting
out flatheaded apple tree borers from their tunnels.]
[Illustration: Fig. 15.--Adult of the buffalo treehopper. Enlarged.]
[Illustration: Fig. 16.--Twig scarred as a result of egg laying by the
buffalo treehopper.]
Insects Attacking the Trunk and Branches
A number of insects cause important damage to the trunk and branches of
nut trees.
~Obscure scale and others.~ The obscure scale[23] infests a variety of nut
trees. On pecan the chief injury results from attacks on branches under
three inches in diameter.
[23] ~Chrysomphalus obscurus~ (Comst.).
The obscure scale and other scale insects can be controlled with
lubricating-oil emulsion during the dormant period. However, nut trees
are often susceptible to oil damage, especially at 3 percent
concentration. Since healthy trees are more resistant to oil injury, it
is therefore advisable to watch for scale infestations so as to spray
them before the trees are weakened.
~Twig girdler.~ Nut trees are sometimes attacked by the twig girdler[24]
(Fig. 11). This beetle lays eggs in the twigs, which are girdled so as
to stop the flow of sap that would normally prevent hatching. The
girdled twigs usually become detached from the trees and as a result the
nut-bearing wood is reduced.
[24] ~Oncideres cingulata~ (Say).
The standard recommendation for control of this insect has been to
gather and destroy the infested twigs in the orchard and from any
infested trees nearby. Recent tests on pecan in northern Florida
indicate that DDT and parathion may be effective against this insect.
Three applications (the first on August 26 when the first girdled twigs
were observed and the others on September 9 and 23) of DDT, 4 pounds of
50 percent wettable powder per 100 gallons of water, or parathion, 3
pounds of 15 percent wettable powder per 100 gallons, gave complete
control. Further experiments will be required to determine the minimum
effective concentration of spray and the number of applications needed
for control. It is suggested that DDT be used for the control of this
insect until more information is available on how to handle and to use
parathion.
~Flatheaded apple tree borer.~ The adult beetle of the flathead apple tree
borer[25] (Fig. 12) deposits its eggs throughout the summer season,
preferably in the small grooves of bark on the unshaded portions of the
trunk of pecan and other trees. The borers (Fig. 13) hatch and tunnel
through the bark to the cambium layer. Young trees may readily be
girdled (Fig. 14).
[25] ~Chrysobothris femorata~ (Oliv.).
To avoid this insect as far as possible, orchard sanitation should be
practiced and the trees should be kept in a healthy condition. In some
plantings wrapping the trunks with paper or burlap to protect against
egg laying and maintaining low branches to shade the trunk have been
helpful. Cutting out the borers with a knife has also been resorted to;
trunk washes have likewise been used but have not been very effective.
~Buffalo treehopper and periodical cicada.~ Buffalo treehoppers[26] (Fig.
15) and the periodical cicada[27] weaken twigs by inserting their eggs
in them. The injured bark becomes roughened as it heals (Fig. 16), and
the growth of the limb is retarded.
[26] ~Ceresa bubalus~ (L.).
[27] ~Magicicada septendecim~ (L.).
Pruning of weakened twigs is recommended for wood injured by the cicada.
If treehoppers are a pest, clean cultivation will help. Cover crops of
cowpeas or clovers should not be planted. In preliminary tests two or
three applications of tetraethyl pyrophosphate (20 percent), 3/4 pint
per 100 gallons of water, have given promising results in controlling
the periodical cicada. The first application should be made after the
cicadas appear and the others as needed to prevent damage.
Observations on Effects of Low Temperatures in Winter 1949-1950 on
Walnuts and Filberts in Oregon and Washington
JOHN H. PAINTER
Horticulturist, United States Department of Agriculture, Agricultural
Research Administration, Bureau of Plant Industry, Soils, and
Agricultural Engineering, Oregon State College, Corvallis, Oregon
In western Oregon and Washington, where the Japan Current is supposed to
keep the winter temperatures moderate, something happens every now and
then and we get really severe winters. We can't blame it on the "A" bomb
because we had severe winter injury in 1919 and 1935 long before the "A"
bomb.
The last two winters have been exceptionally cold, but this past winter
of 1949-1950 was much more severe than the previous one.
In 1948-1949, the cold came rather suddenly in the latter part of
December. In the past winter, 1949-1950, the real cold came on January
30, with temperatures ranging from 10 to 30 degrees below zero F. Most
official temperatures were higher; but at Corvallis the official
temperatures were taken at least 60 feet above the ground level, on the
roof of the Agricultural Building, which is over a steam-heated building
and is old enough to be not very well insulated. This cold continued in
somewhat modified form for a week.
During the previous winter the lowest temperature recorded in the nut
growing areas was about 10 to 11 degrees above zero F., and the severe
cold lasted for only a couple of days.
In both winters the ground was fairly well covered with snow, but with
considerably more snow this past winter than the previous winter.
No apparent damage to Persian walnuts was observed as a result of the
cold in the 1948-1949 winter, but in certain low-lying areas catkins of
Barcelona and Daviana filberts were killed, especially those of the
latter. Considerable dieback of filberts occurred; but during the
following growing season recovery was effected and at the end of the
summer very little evidence of winter injury was visible.
The injury resulting from the cold weather of the past winter was much
more severe than that of the previous winter. Whereas filberts were the
only nut trees injured in 1948-1949, they escaped with relatively little
damage in 1949-1950 in comparison with Persian walnuts.
On February 11, 1950, ten days after the really severe week, several
walnut growers of long experience held grave fears for the entire
industry. Peach and apple trees, which seem to exhibit winter injury
more quickly than walnuts, showed so much damage then that walnut
growers thought the injury to the Persian walnut would be even worse.
From February 11, 1950, to the present date (July 30) I have been making
observations from time to time in different locations with special
attention to walnuts and with some to filberts. It is thought that
certain of these observations might be of interest to nut growers in
other areas, even though there is nothing particularly new or startling
about them. They do, however, tend to show how surprisingly well the
Persian walnut trees can withstand severe cold if it occurs after they
have once gone into dormancy.
Generally speaking, the winter injury to walnuts has been spotty. No
areas of great size have been either free of injury or severely injured.
Usually, where a difference in severity of damage is found between areas
close together, some reason for the difference can be found, but it is
not always evident on the surface.
Injury to Walnuts
With the possible exception of southern Oregon, it is safe to say that
100 percent of the walnut trees in Oregon and Washington suffered some
twig injury as a result of last winter's cold. In many cases the
subsequent dieback of the twigs may extend only a few inches, but
sometimes the injury involves not only the past season's growth but that
of three or even four years back.
As might well be expected, this twig injury of necessity has meant the
loss of many terminal and lateral buds which bear the female flowers; so
for that reason, if for no other, this twig injury has assumed serious
aspects.
In many cases the catkins were severely injured even where there was
little or no twig injury. The catkins of the Persian walnut seem to be
extremely sensitive to cold. Many Persian walnut trees in Oregon this
year failed to produce any catkins at all. Some produced very few normal
catkins, but some half-developed and deformed catkins. An examination of
these partially injured catkins, however, revealed the fact that they
did produce some pollen. It will always remain a mystery to me how as
many walnuts were pollinated and set as there were, with the scant crop
of catkins.
In practically every orchard examined, where the temperature got as low
as minus 10 degrees F., the pith cells were blackened. This is not
uncommon in other tree crops following severe winter injury. Fairly good
peach crops have been borne in Georgia on trees that had the pith cells
completely blackened.
In the case of walnuts this year, many growers were considerably worried
by the fact that even the wood tissue outside the pith region was black
and watersoaked. However, to date (July 30, 1950) this condition has
not proven serious; as long as the cambium cells were not injured no
real trouble has developed. In some cases under observation, even where
some injury to the cambium cells was known to have existed, enough live
ones have been left to effect recovery. Compared to peach, holly, and
even apple trees the Persian walnut has put up a marvelous fight to
recover from the injury sustained.
Factors Accentuating Winter Injury in Walnuts
After the several months of observation, certain factors appear
invariably to account for excessive damage to walnut orchards. Elevation
seems to be a principal factor. The hillside orchards or those on upland
sites (soils) were far less injured than the river-bottom or
valley-floor orchards, even though the latter may be on a better soil as
far as fertility is concerned. My early prediction of 50 percent of a
crop in the hillside orchards seems now to have been about 10 percent
short, unless other factors become involved. On the other hand, my early
prediction of 25 percent of a crop in the valley-floor orchards has been
close to correct. Of course, certain valley-floor orchards with a
combination of adverse factors won't have even a 5 percent crop.
Older orchards were more severely hurt than younger orchards with
otherwise similar conditions. This is possibly due to the lack of vigor
and of reserve material, resulting from crowding and competition for
elements of nutrition.
The size of the crop the preceeding year seems invariably to have had an
effect upon amount of damage done. The matter of reserves is again
involved. Two orchards that bore a reduced crop last year because of
spring frost injury have come through much better than some other
similar orchards, at practically the same elevation and age, that bore a
crop last year.
Two adjacent hillside orchards show considerable difference in degree of
winter injury and crop prospects for this year. It is believed that this
difference was due to the fact that in one orchard 35 percent of the
crop was destroyed by blight last year, in comparison with a 1 percent
loss in the other. The owners and I estimate that there is at least 20
percent larger crop this year in the orchard which had the heavy loss
from blight last year.
In several orchards where different levels of fertilization have been
used by the grower, it appears that the more liberal the application of
fertilizer, particularly nitrogen, the less severe was the winter damage
sustained.
At the college orchard in Corvallis, the one tree that got no additional
nitrogen last year and that bore the heaviest crop of nuts is
outstandingly the most severely winter injured of the 17 trees involved.
Only two varieties of walnuts have been studied, Franquette and Mayette,
and some Carpathian seedlings in one orchard. Here in Oregon the Mayette
seems to have generally withstood the winter injury better than the
Franquette. It is my belief that they are just naturally a little more
vigorous than the Franquette. Yet they never seem to overproduce as the
Franquette sometime does. Last year was the "on" year for Franquettes
and that might easily account for the generally apparent better
condition of the Mayettes this year.
Carpathians Resist Winter Best
Near Ontario, Oregon, I saw 7 seedling Carpathian walnut trees early
this spring. They were leafed out and the catkins were elongated before
any Franquettes, even in the Willamette Valley, had started breaking
buds. No sign of winter injury was apparent on the Carpathian trees at
that time, yet Franquettes at the Malheur Experiment Station, a mile
away, were obviously killed to the groundline. The owner, Mr. Peter
Countryman, says these trees are often damaged by spring frosts but they
always produce some nuts.
A letter dated August 4, from Mr. Countryman, indicates that a hard
frost on the morning of April 24 when the temperature dropped to 22
degrees, did considerable damage to the new growth and catkins on the
lower half of the Carpathian walnut trees. He estimates not to exceed
one-third of a crop on these Carpathian trees this year; but he says
that since the freeze the trees have made good growth, the new terminals
being about 18 inches in length and the nuts on them are very large.
To sum up the walnut situation, then, the encouraging thing is that no
walnut orchards have been called to my attention that were completely
killed. Several badly neglected orchards and two orchards where it is
said that the temperature dropped lower than minus 25 degrees F. are so
severely damaged that it is impractical to try to save them, but even
these are not completely killed.
Injury to Filberts
From the less comprehensive observations made on filberts following the
severe winter just past, it appears in general that when the filbert
tree has gone into dormancy it is more tolerant of cold than the walnut.
The difference of one month in time of occurrence of the cold in the two
winters seems to have had more bearing on the damage to filberts than
the difference in temperature. In the Forest Grove, Oregon, area, and in
Clark County, Washington, filbert trees, however did suffer severely
from the cold last winter, but these two areas were the "cold spots" of
the Northwest.
It seems as if the same factors that accentuate winter damage in walnuts
work in a similar way on filberts, except that the elevation factor
does not seem to be of so great importance. Age of tree, level
of nutrition, and size of preceeding year's crop seem to be more
important than elevation. Young filbert orchards, on either hillside or
valley-floor sites, seem to be much less severely hurt than older
orchards on the same sites. It is the acreage of _young_ filbert trees
that will make good the agricultural statistician's estimate of 40 to 50
percent of a filbert crop this year.
I have seen one 32-acre orchard of 24-year-old filbert trees that was
injured beyond repair, but they were crowded and unfertilized. At the
very same location a 14-acre orchard of 15-year-old filberts with
adequate spacing was not seriously injured, even though the trees were
not fertilized.
One other orchard in a poor location and on waterlogged soil, which has
had little or no care, has likewise been lost. Filberts definitely were
hurt in the two "cold spots" previously mentioned, but official reports
of minus 18 degrees F. were common in that area.
There was a noticeable difference in damage to catkins between Daviana
and DuChilly. Very few Daviana catkins produced pollen; but DuChilly
seemed to be fairly normal.
Injury in filberts was confined mostly to the catkins and twigs.
Excessive sucker growth up and down the main trunk and branches has
taken place in the filberts, as is the case in walnuts.
In neither walnuts nor filberts was there much splitting of the bark on
the trunk. This was probably because there was no sudden fluctuation in
temperatures and sunshine was not excessive during the critically cold
days.
It has been previously stated that the filbert is possibly more tolerant
of cold than the walnut. In spite of this there probably has been more
extensive damage to filberts than to walnuts; but it must be remembered
that filberts are the principal nut crop in those two "cold spots." Not
many walnuts are grown there, but the ones that are were likewise
injured.
Editor's Note: Mr. Gellatly's following papers were read by title.
Effects of the Winter of 1949-50 on Nut Trees in British Columbia
J. U. GELLATLY
Box 19, Westbank, B. C.
(Orchard at Gellatly, B. C.)
Our district is just recovering (in August) from the effects of the
toughest winter we have experienced here in the past 50 years. This gave
the weather test to the tune of -22° F., official. The unofficials were
of 30 to 40 below--depending on distances and location from Okanagan
Lake, a deep body of water three to four miles wide and eighty miles
long. This lake rarely freezes over completely, especially near our
section; so the open water acts as a thermostat during most winters. But
the past one pulled a new stunt and it froze over completely giving zero
winds a vast open sweep, so that to be near the lake was a disadvantage,
for it was colder there than it was farther back, in more sheltered
locations.
Heartnuts and Hybrids
The bright spot in the nut tree picture is our heartnut trees. They all
came through in good shape, making rampant growths and carrying a heavy
crop. These include: 2 Walters, 4 O.K. Heart, 1 Canoka, 1 Slioka, 1
Rover, 2 Calendar, 1 Westoka, 1 Nursoka, 1 Aloka, 1 Symoka, 15 select
unnamed bearing seedlings, yet on trial. All are promising. Also we have
three of the Elfin paper shell heartnut hybrids. I have failed to find a
good pollinator for these Elfins, so they are shy croppers, although
producing plenty of the female blooms. All of the above trees are 6
inches in diameter and up to 20 inches.
Then come the Buart nuts. I coined this name to designate the hybrids I
had made having the butternut (~J. cineria~) as the pollen parent and
Calendar heartnut (~J. sieboldiana cordiformis~) as the mother tree.
Possibly the seven best of these are: Leslie, Dunoka, Fioka, Okanda,
Kingsbury, Penoka, Flavo. These trees are all carrying crops and most of
them are making good growth.
Filberts
Ackerman, Brag, Comet, Craig, Holder, Petoka, Carey, Baroka, Barcelona,
Bawdin, Firstoka (Gellatly No. 1). These have made a good showing, as
the majority of the trees or bushes under 4 to 6 inch crown diameter of
these varieties, are doing well and carrying good crops, while many
above these diameters suffered in varying degrees from slightly to
severely, apparently regardless of variety, location, or soil on which
they grew. It may be noted that all these varieties have been hardy in
the past, but age was adding up and age evidently had somewhat to do
with their inability to take the punishment they got this past winter.
For all my large Bing and Lambert cherry trees were severely injured or
entirely winter killed, as were nearby peaches, apricots, pear, and some
apple trees, particularly in the larger sizes, while many of these
younger trees were uninjured, except that they are fruitless this
season.
Soft Shell Walnuts
(Juglans regia)
Broadview variety on Gellatly Farm, of 20 bearing trees, all suffered
winter injury for first time in 20 years. This injury varied all the way
from freezing back two to three feet of all higher branches and twigs,
to an actual loss of one-third to two-thirds of entire tree and trunk.
At date of writing all are staging a good comeback with no care but a
"wait-and-see" policy as to final treatment. There was so much loss as
to involve too much work if pruning and after care of sprouts were
undertaken. It was decided to leave the dead limbs and branches as a
protection to the fast growing new sprouts, which, without this
protection, would probably have been badly damaged by wind and rain
storms. Even large birds lighting on these new sprouts might break them
down.
The dead limbs will be gradually removed later, as the new limbs harden
up and take over. Many of these will be left as supports for at least
two years, when I expect most of these trees will be back in production,
if we get a return to normal (minus 10° F.) winters, many will produce
in 1951, as the new wood is showing a good growth of catkins. Although
all bearing trees on my place were injured, the younger trees in my
nursery were not hurt to any noticeable extent. At Summerland
Experimental Station, 25 miles south of Gellatly, grow two large
Broadview walnut trees supplied by myself. I had grafted on these black
walnut roots (~J. nigra~) at the ground line, in every respect like my
own. These trees are carrying a good crop. One shows slight winter
injury, the other none at all. The official low for their location was
22° below F. with nearby unofficials to 30° below.
Their present location is at least 200 feet above lake level, and on
very well drained sandy loam. Mine are about 30 feet above the lake and
on somewhat heavier loam. I note that trees on my more gravelly soil
came through in the best shape at official-22° F., unofficial 24 to 28
below. My Broadview that made best survival had grown the previous year
in a chicken yard. Ground was well scratched over and droppings
incorporated in top 4 inches of soil. Tree was flood irrigated three or
four times in dry season. On this tree only outer new branches were
killed and tree gives every indication of being back in crop in 1951
season.
The crop record on this tree is from 1945 and reads '45--35 pounds;
'46--75 pounds; '47--91 pounds; '48--36 pounds; '49--100 pounds. Weight
is for clean, undried, and partly dried nuts at time of picking up. Some
of the other Broadview trees have higher crop records, although of same
age and size, with possibly a bit better soil, in same grove. One tree
in six years, '44 to '49 inclusive, had an average of 74 pounds per
year; another had an average for the same years of 104 pounds per year.
Just recently I made a special trip to see how the parent Broadview tree
had wintered. I found it had sustained severe damage to two-thirds of
the upper part of the trunk and main branches. The lower third was
staging a good comeback, despite unofficials of 35 to 40 below zero F.
as reported by neighboring farmers.
The following varieties of soft shell bearing walnut trees were also
winter injured: Munsoka, badly, top two-thirds of trunk; Linoka, badly,
top two-thirds of trunk; Myoka (Jumbo type) one-third of top branches;
Geloka (Jumbo type) frozen to ground line but sprouts two feet high now
growing. On Sirdar (a Jumbo type long nut), only outer tips of branches
were killed. This was a surprise to me, as it is a second generation
seedling of Italian source. The parent tree grew and cropped well for
many years on bench land at Sirdar, in southern interior of B. C. until
the winter of 1935-36, when it was so badly damaged that the owner had
it removed. I rather looked for a similar fate in this one. There is
this difference: mine was not as old nor had it been cropping heavily as
yet. The season here is barely long enough to develop fully the kernels
of Sirdar.
Crath Carpathian Walnut No. 46
This walnut was grafted on black walnut (~J. nigra~) root in 1944 and
planted here on low loam soil in 1945. It never has been hardy under our
conditions, winter killing some every winter since it was planted. This
past winter it was killed to below snow line 18 inches above union,
whereas Broadview trees alongside, which are the same in every respect,
never were injured until this past winter. Then only minor damage to
soft new growth was done. So it looks as though Broadview is still the
best bet for our conditions.
I am of the opinion that extreme temperature is not the sole determining
factor in causing winter injury to nut or other trees. This opinion is
based on the behavior of trees that have winter killed continuously
while in certain soil, but on being moved to another spot having
enriched soil of similar make-up and drainage located only 200 yards
away, have never winter killed since removal, and have taken much worse
winters, including the one just past.
The fact that many of our introductions grow and thrive 150 to 200 miles
north of here, where temperatures drop to minus 35° to 40°, with
occasional drops to 54° below zero. Check this on your map of Interior
of B. C. on 53° latitude at Quesnel, B. C. I see a geology map lists
that district as sedimentary and volcanic rocks. My informant grows
butternuts, chestnuts, and filberts. Another grower at Clinton, located
on 50° latitude, central B. C. with temperatures to minus 40° F., grows
Japanese and black walnuts, also Pioneer almond. We are sure that the
same temperatures with our conditions would kill most of our trees.
Recipes
J. U. GELLATLY
Walnut Honey Sandwich
1 Teaspoon crystallized Honey (the coarser the crystal the better)
3 Broadview walnut half kernels or quarters.
Place honey on one-half kernel, then stick the other half on the honey,
making a small sandwich, or kernel covered ball of honey. This is a
delightful confection.
Potato Nut Soup
1. Grate 1 tablespoon onion.
2. Grate 1 good-sized potato.
Place in double boiler, stir while adding boiling water, to a thin
paste. Stir until cooked clear like corn starch pudding. Add hot whole
milk to bring to creamy soup. At this stage add one-fourth cup filbert
kernels. First put nuts through one of the new nut planing gadgets.
These are better than the old grinder shredders or choppers, as shavings
are so thin and soft they just melt in hot liquid. (Also delightful on
ice cream or fresh fruit.) Have potatoes well cooked before adding milk
or nut flakes. Cooking nuts too long sets up some chemical change that
thins the creamy texture of the soup.
Description of Filazel Varieties[28]
[28] Since the Peace River hazel is apparently ~Corylus rostrata~ these
filbert hybrids of Mr. Gellatly belong to a different category from the
"hazilberts" of Mr. Weschcke and the "Mildred filberts" which had ~C.
americana~ parentage.--J. C. McD.
J. U. GELLATLY
The name (Filazel) I coined to designate those crosses I had made,
having the Peace River hazel as the mother tree and Craig and others of
our large filberts as the pollen parent.
Peoka
Has thin shell. Clean, well-filled kernel. Is heavy cropper and free
husker. Nuts mature early. Are well filled by August fifth with shells
starting to brown. Fully ripe by August tenth to fifteenth.
Manoka
One of the best of my first selections. Very attractive, heavy cropper,
well-filled kernels by August first, shells coloring by August fifth.
Ripe and falling August fifteenth.
Fernoka
Good cropper of roundish nuts, having short open husks and good clean
kernels.
Myoka In clusters 1 to 6. Has short open husks. Leaves color well in the
fall. Has ornamental value.
Fairoka
One to 7 nuts in cluster in fancy frilled and rolled back husk. Nuts
roundish, of fair size and color. Flavor, good. Leaves color well in
fall. Has ornamental value.
Maroka
Medium-sized nut exposed in clusters 4 to 6. Open husk, folded back.
Ureoka
Medium size for Filazel. Thin-shelled roundish nut, 4 to 6 in clusters.
Very short, partially closed husk.
Orvoka
Two to 5 nuts in cluster. Clean kernels. Husk half-inch longer than nut.
Has open side. Good cropper.
Brenoka
Long husk like parent hazel, but lacking prickles of the wild. Medium
sized nut in clusters, 1 to 4.
Eloka
Two to 4 in cluster. Medium sized nut with clean kernels in open husks.
No. 500
Four to 10 nuts in cluster. Has short open husk. Good-sized nut of
Barcelona type. Is a good cropper of clean kernels. Shell heavy.
No. 502
Largest Barcelona type Filazel that has fruited to date. Clusters
contain 4 to 8 nuts enclosed in heavy medium-length closed husks.
No. 503
One to 9 nuts in cluster, having clean, full kernels in thick shells
enclosed in short open husks.
No. 505
One to 6 nuts in cluster, having closed, medium length husks. A good
cropper.
No. 509
Two to 6 roundish nuts in long closed husks free of prickles so common
on wild hazels. A good cropper. The parent hazels used for these crosses
mature the nuts by the first of August and were winter hardy at-60° F.
in Peace River, Alberta.
Other Hazels
Manchurian short bush hazel, distinctive clipped off top on leaf with
some colored (of reddish hue). This bush retains leaves all winter, and
would make a good protective covering for wild life. Has well-flavored,
clean kernels fully developed by August seventh, 1950. Kernel is
enclosed in heavy, squat shells encircled with distinctive short closed
husk, as if folded together just covering nut. The leaf shape and
markings carry through and appear in the young seedlings.
Experiments with Tree Hazels and Chestnuts
J. U. GELLATLY
Corylus jacquemontii
(Smooth Bark) India Tree Hazel
Tree No. 1. Location--N.W. corner Lot 6, subdivision Lot 487, Scions
from Kew Botanical Garden, England. Top grafted on Craig filbert 10 feet
from ground line. This made good annual growth and compatibly well
adjusted unions, which after many years are still in line and not
readily detected except by difference in color and character of
bark--the grafted top being smooth and lighter of color than Craig
stock. Although stocks were bearing when cut for grafting, and scions
were from bearing trees and had catkins on when received, grafts were
trained to take over and become the main growth and leading tree from
the Craig crown. This grafted tree did not produce catkins or nuts for
four or five years, but branches on the stock went right on bearing, as
did also other Craig sections on same root crown or filbert clump used
for grafting above tree hazel. At date of writing, and following the
severest winter of the past 45 years, when temperatures dropped to -24°
F., followed by brief, bright sunshine and rapid rise of temperature,
all ungrafted filberts of over three to four inches in diameter are dead
or nearly so, while suckers 2-1/2 inches in diameter and smaller are
quite sound and making good growth. So, also, are the stocks or sections
top grafted to the tree hazel--even the larger 4 to 4-1/2 inches in
diameter trunks. I ask why, as by all ordinary results the grafted trees
should have been the easiest damaged. This tree, and the other sections
of filberts on same crown, had cropped for three years past, so that
from that angle they should have been on an equal footing. Only a few
clusters of nuts grew on this ~Corylus jacquemontii~ this 1950 season.
Data on tree size: Height 32 feet--was grafted about 10 feet above
ground line. Circumference of tree--12 inches above ground is 15 inches.
At 4 inches below the graft, it is 10 inches, and the same four inches
above graft union, which is very uniform, and if this combination could
be reversed we would have an ideal non-suckering stock for commercial
filbert orchards. ~Jacquemontii~ also buds well on cork bark ~C. colurna~
tree hazel.
Corylus jacquemontii
Smooth Bark India Tree Hazel on
Cork Bark Turkish Tree Hazel
Corylus colurna Stock
Tree No. 2 Location--S.W. corner of Lot 6, subdivision Lot 487. Budded
August 15, 1941, at six feet from ground line, to one inch two year
growth. Two years later top was removed and bud made to take over
leadership. From then on it made good growth. Removal of top was not
done at one operation, but first year leader was cut one-third way
through, on long slope from bud downward on both sides, and allowed to
callus over one year. Second year leader was cut further and when
callused, top was then removed. This treatment gave good coverage of
wound on trunk. Tree bore first crop 1949, eight years after budding.
Nuts 1/2 inch in diameter, moderate shell of roundish form, well filled,
with good flavor, clean kernels. August 4, 1950--Tree has a base
circumference at ten inches above ground of 18-1/2 inches--at six feet
above, 14 inches--below union circumference is 14 inches, while four
inches above union it is 11 inches. No evidence of any winter injury
after taking a-24° F. temperature. No crop this year, but has a good
crop of catkins showing for 1951.
Corylus hetrophyllia Japanese Tree Hazel
Tree No. 3. Location--N. W. corner of Lot 6, subdivision Lot 487. Scions
from Kew Botanical Gardens, England, top grafted on Craig Filbert stocks
10 feet from ground line. Made very good union. Present circumference
four inches below union is 7-3/4 inches, and four inches above union is
8 inches.
The bark on this graft is similar to the Craig on which it is growing
but lighter in color. There is no winter injury in evidence at this date
except a very much lighter crop than usual. Has small, oval,
light-colored nut of good flavor and color--clean kernels.
Corylus colurna (Thin Bark) Turkish Tree Hazel, also Cork Bark
Tree No. 4. Source of Scions--Oregon, U.S.A. Top graft on Craig stock
six feet above ground. This Craig filbert clump has several divisions.
Main one now six inches above ground. Has a circumference of 20 inches,
and just above this branches into four main limbs of similar size, which
at a height of six feet were grafted--two to the thin bark above, and
two to the cork bark type. The thin bark type have made very compatible
unions--well healed over. The circumference four inches below the graft
is now 9-1/2 inches and at similar distance above is now 10 inches.
July, 1950:--These are bearing a few nuts, following a winter
temperature of-24° F. Although the two branches worked to the cork bark
type have no crop this season, they have over-grown graft unions, and
the tops are oversize for stocks. Circumference four inches below union
is now 7 inches, and at same distance above is 9 inches. Both these
types have thick shelled roundish nuts which are hard to get out of the
husks, and so far have many blank nuts. India tree hazels also contain
many blanks and are very difficult to separate from the husks. Trees are
all hardy and vigorous.
Best of 25 seedling ~C. colurna~ (cork bark tree hazels). Circumference
twelve inches above ground line is 31 inches, and at six feet above
ground is 25 inches. Height about forty feet. On August 3, 1950, I
climbed thirty feet into upper branches to see if there was any crop,
but none was to be seen, but heavy crop of catkins was developing for
1951. I have many hybrids from all of these tree hazels and filberts,
nearing the bearing age, and they give interesting promise of new
strains, as all sorts of crossing are evident.
Tibet Hazel (C. tibicia)
Vigorous grower, upright, good cropper, fair size round nuts. Clean
kernels, nut clusters, 4 to 6 nuts in open medium husks. Nuts fall free.
These clusters differ from usual run of filberts or hazels in that each
husk is separate on short neck from center of cluster.
Timber Type Tree Chinese Chestnut (Castanea mollissima)
Seed secured direct from China. All select large nuts. So far, only a
very few produce trees that yield nuts of as large size as those
planted. All that have are timber type trees. All the bush or dwarf
spreading type trees yield small to medium-sized nuts, all of good
quality and flavor. (Selection to 1950 date referred to.)
One Chinese Chestnut Selection Named
Skioka. Most promising timber type to date of this group of seedlings.
Has one straight trunk 38 feet tall, base circumference 1 foot above
ground, is 22 inches; and 6 feet above ground line circumference is 15
inches. To date, tree is sparse cropper. Started bearing in 1945, with
three very large sized nuts in large fleshy burs. It has borne every
year since, with gradual increase in number. In 1949 it matured 12 large
nuts of 1-5/8 inch diameter. A good peeler and solid kernel. I have four
other trees of similar size and all winter hardy this past winter, at
24° below. Skioka is the most promising to date of the four as to size
of nut.
Bush or Peach Tree Type of C. mollissima
Of this type I have about 30 trees. Many seem 100% hardy and came
through in good shape. However, for some years they, with the tree type,
seemed to be having trouble with some soil deficiency or else some
excess of soil salts which caused a lot of leaf fading, followed by
browning and drying up. Some trees almost defoliate themselves, while
others nearby and alongside are O.K., possibly due to individual
tolerance of conditions.
* * * * *
DR. MacDANIELS: The first paper after recess has to do with the
varieties of hickory nuts. I know of no one who is in a better position
to talk on this subject on their performance here in this part of New
York State than Gilbert L. Smith of Millerton. He began a number of
years ago topworking trees on a hillside and propagating trees as a
nurseryman and probably is, as far as I know, one of the best men in nut
shade trees and hickory varieties that there is anywhere in the country.
Mr. Gilbert Smith.
MR. SMITH: I am no good at making a speech, so I am just going to read
this. This is our experience with hickory varieties so far. That's just
up to date, but not any further.
Our Experience with Hickory Nut Varieties
GILBERT L. SMITH, Route 2, Millerton, N. Y.
Because we are located so far north, 41° 45' North Latitude, we have
paid particular attention to the earliness of ripening of the various
varieties of hickory.
While we have living grafts of more than a hundred named varieties of
hickory, only a comparative few have started to bear nuts. Of these, I
will give a brief discussion, starting with the earliest and going
through the list in order of their ripening.
ANTHONY, shagbark--We believe that this is Anthony No. 1 but as there
are four or five varieties named Anthony with a number following the
name, we are not absolutely sure. This variety has ripened very early
with us. It is rather small but cracks very well and has borne well with
us. We consider it to be an excellent variety.
WESCHCKE, shagbark--Is our second earliest variety so far. It is also
rather small, with a distinctive shape, tapering from a rather broad
blossom end to a sharp point at the stem end. Our graft has had one very
good crop, but it is younger than many of our other grafts. We consider
it a very good variety.
CROWN POINT, shagbark--Is our third variety in order of ripening. This
is a rather small nut with some of them being very small; that is, there
is quite a variation in the size of the nuts. It cracks quite well and
is of very good quality. It has also borne as well or better than any
other variety we have under test. We have never propagated it for sale
as we have hardly thought it quite good enough.
In fourth place of ripening order, we have four ties, namely; Bauer,
Cedar Rapids, Hines, and Independence.
BAUER, shagbark--Has borne well, is of good size, good quality and
cracks well. It is also a very good shaped nut. We consider it to be one
of the very good hickories.
CEDAR RAPIDS, shagbark--While our graft of this variety has borne but
moderately, we consider it to be a very good variety. It is of good
size, cracks well, is of good quality and attractive shape.
HINES, shagbark--While our graft of this variety has borne well, cracks
well and is of good quality, it is so small that we have never
propagated it for sale.
INDEPENDENCE, shagbark--The nuts of this variety are so small that we
have paid little attention to it.
FOX, shagbark--This variety is in fifth place in order of ripening.
Fox won first prize in the 1934 N.N.G.A. contest. But there is a deep
mystery connected with this variety as subsequent crops, grown on
grafts, have not produced nuts of such top qualities. There have been
many theories advanced but no one has solved the mystery yet. One theory
is that there is bud variation in the parent tree and that Mr. Fox,
quite naturally, cut scion wood from the lower parts of the tree, which
were most readily accessible. During the war, I secured a special
allotment of gasoline and made the trip to Fonda, N. Y., to cut scions
from all parts of the tree. The scions from the various parts of the
tree were labeled separately and were grafted on stocks in our test
orchard. While not all of these grafts lived, we have living grafts from
nearly all parts of the tree. I note that at least one of these grafts
has nuts on it this year. If there is bud variation we hope that we will
have at least some grafts of the superior Fox nuts.
In spite of all this, Fox is an excellent variety, being of good size,
cracks well, and is of very good quality. While it is fifth in order of
ripening, it is still an early hickory and will succeed considerably
farther north than our location.
In sixth place we have two varieties, namely; Clark and Stocking.
CLARK, shagbark--Our graft of this variety has borne well, the nuts
being of good size, crack well and are of good quality. We consider it
to be a very good variety.
STOCKING, shagbark x bitternut--While our graft has grown very well, it
has produced but very few nuts. We were not very greatly impressed with
these.
In seventh place in order of ripening, we have two varieties, Camp No. 2
and Stratford.
CAMP NO. 2, shagbark--We did not find this variety good enough to
interest us very much. Subsequent crops may show up better.
STRATFORD, not sure whether shagbark or hybrid[29]--Our Stratford graft
has been poorly tended and has had little chance to show its merits. So
while it has an excellent reputation, we know very little about it.
However we have several good sized grafts of it, growing in nursery row,
which have several nuts on this year, so we will find out more about it
soon.
[29] It is a bitternut hybrid.--Ed.
In eighth place we have three varieties; Proper, Shaul, and Wilcox.
While being in eighth place, these are still medium early varieties.
PROPER, shagbark--This is a little known variety, our graft is rather
young and we have had too few nuts to form any opinion of this variety
as yet.
SHAUL, shagbark--While this is a very good nut, being of good size,
cracks well and of good quality, our graft on shagbark stock has grown
slowly and it is the one variety so far that we have found will not do
well on our bitternut stocks.
WILCOX, shagbark--So far this is our favorite variety. The graft has
grown into a fine tree and has borne good crops of nuts which are of
good size, crack almost perfectly and are of very good quality.
MINNIE, shagbark--While we have not had a crop of this variety since
starting to keep a ripening record, it ripens about the same time as
Wilcox and is a very good variety.
Ninth on our list we have two varieties; Davis and Peck Hybrid. It so
happens that I discovered both of these varieties.
DAVIS, shagbark--First prize winner in the New York and New England
Contest of 1934. Incidentally, a sample of Fox nuts was awarded tenth
place in this same contest. You will note that this was the same year in
which Fox won first place in the N.N.G.A.
Davis has pretty well lived up to expectations. Grafts of this variety
are rapid growers. It is the only variety we have ever succeeded in
making live on pignut stocks. While the grafts are slower growing on
pignut stocks, they have lived for several years and have borne nuts.
But as the squirrels have stolen all of the nuts, we do not know how
they compare with the nuts grown on other stocks.
Our grafts of Davis have borne well, the nuts are of good size and crack
well, although not as well as those of Wilcox. It is also of very good
quality. We consider it to be a top rate nut.
PECK HYBRID, shagbark x bitternut--The nuts of this variety are large,
thin shelled, crack well and are of good quality. It also bears well.
The drawback is that only about one third to one half of the nuts are
well filled. I can take freshly shucked nuts of this variety and by
placing them in water can pick out a sample of nuts that are just about
as good hickory nuts as you can find anywhere, but these will be only
about one third of the nuts involved. For this reason we have never
propagated it for sale.
In tenth place we have three varieties; Berger, Strever, and Triplett.
BERGER, shellbark--While this variety is quite small for a shellbark, it
is quite large when compared with the shagbarks. Our graft of the Berger
has borne fairly well, cracks well and is of very good quality.
Incidentally our graft is the true Berger. There was some mix-up with
the Berger wood, and some who thought they had Berger found that they
had something else when their trees started to bear.
STREVER, shagbark--The original tree of this variety is growing near
Pine Plains here in Dutchess County, on the Old Strever Homestead. This
property was later sold to people named Owre, who tried to have the
variety named after them. I believe that Strever is the more proper
name.
While this variety is of good size and quality, it has not cracked quite
well enough to rate it as a top flight hickory.
TRIPLETT, shagbark--This is a large shagbark which cracks well and is of
good quality. Our graft bears well. I believe that it was discovered by
Dr. Deming and the late Mr. Beeman. This is a variety which can well
bear considerable attention in the future. We are propagating some of
the trees for sale.
In eleventh place we have nine varieties, namely: Bridgewater, Griffin,
Hagen, Harman, Kirtland, Lingenfelter, Manahan, Oliver, and Wampler.
BRIDGEWATER, shagbark--A large fine variety, cracks well, yields well
and is of good quality. This is another discovery of Dr. Deming's and
Mr. Beeman's. We have started to propagate it for sale.
GRIFFIN, shagbark--I have mislaid my comments on this variety and cannot
remember much about it, except that it is of good size and bears well.
HAGEN, shagbark--We have not had enough nuts of this variety to enable
us to form an opinion of it.
HARMAN, shagbark--A large nut. We did not think much of our first crop
of this variety but the second crop was very good.
KIRTLAND, shagbark--This is a fine large nut, but with the one good
crop, we have had, only about half of the nuts were well filled. The
other half were floaters, only partly filled.
LINGENFELTER, shagbark--Here again we have had too few nuts to enable us
to form an opinion. Mr. Reed thought very well of it.
MANAHAN, shagbark--This nut is of southern origin and I fear that we are
too far north for it. However we have had one crop that was very good.
All other crops have not been matured. It is evidentally a very good nut
where it can be grown.
OLIVER, shagbark--Too few nuts to form an opinion.
WAMPLER, shellbark--Too few nuts to form an opinion.
In twelfth place on our list, in order of ripening, we have Bowman and
Redcay. These are both shellbarks and the nuts have not been well
filled, as borne on our grafts.
In last place on our list, we have a southern shagbark, Booth, and two
hicans, Bixby and Burlington. We have not been able to form an opinion
of Booth. Bixby and Burlington have, so far, been very shy bearers and
the nuts have not been well filled. They are of very large size and very
excellent quality.
The time elapsed between the earliest and latest ripening of these
different hickory varieties was 36 days. The time between the different
steps were about three days. I do not give the dates because they will
vary from year to year. In early years, Anthony has been ripe very early
in September.
Summarizing this report shows that our tests so far indicate that the
following varieties are good and well worthy of propagation: Anthony
(probably No. 1), Weschcke, Bauer, Cedar Rapids, Fox, Clark, Wilcox,
Minnie, Davis, Berger, Triplett, Bridgewater, Manahan (farther south).
Instead of listing these 13 varieties alphabetically or in order of
their merits, I have listed them in order of their ripening, earliest
first, and so on. Those varieties in the first half of the list can be
grown in locations considerably farther north than our location, which
is 41° 45' North Latitude, while those in the last half of the list are
not likely to be adapted to locations farther north than ours.
You will note that five of these varieties are not well known, but are
good varieties. They are, namely; Bauer, Cedar Rapids, Clark, Triplett,
and Bridgewater.[30]
[30] The Bridgewater pollenizes the male-sterile Weschcke variety in
Wisconsin. See Mr. Weschcke's discussion, pp. 193-95 in NNGA Report for
1948.--Ed.
This is only a preliminary or progress report, and should not be taken
as final in any respect. Neither does it cover all or near all, of the
top-rate hickory varieties. For instance, you will note, the variety
named Glover has not been mentioned. This is because our grafts of it
have not started to bear yet, so we have no comparable basis for
including it in this report. Yet there can be no question as to the
merits of Glover, for it is one of the very best. There are, no doubt,
many other very excellent varieties not mentioned here.