entertainment which I gave to several of the inhabitants of this place
a few days since. Having invited as many as I could conveniently
accommodate, I regaled them with all the most exquisite things the
market afforded. I passed the bottle pretty briskly, telling them the
liquor was a favourite decoction of mine, which they might drink
without any scruple. They did not seem to wish to doubt this
assertion; and having raised their spirits to a flow of mirth and
jollity, I told them, that, as they had done me the honour of coming
to dine with me, I would endeavour to amuse them with a small specimen
of what the doctors in England commonly make use of in certain
chronical complaints. I then placed my electric machine in the centre
of the court, and having loaded it with a sufficient quantity of
electric fluid, produced such a powerful shock to about a dozen of the
stoutest, that, either from surprise or terror, they fell apparently
senseless on the floor. The consternation and confusion which ensued
were beyond description; the rest were all retiring precipitately with
the most dreadful yells and cries imaginable, expecting to share the
fate of their companions. With much difficulty I prevailed on them to
remain, and, raising the men from the ground, I convinced them they
had received no injury; upon which they unanimously attributed it to
my great skill in magic, and loaded me with a thousand compliments, I
repeated the experiment three or four times, to their inexpressible
wonder, and I was at length almost hailed as a supernatural being. The
report of this extraordinary phenomenon soon spread abroad, and a vast
concourse of people assembled; but my guard would not allow any one to
enter without my permission. In the evening I sent for a band of
music, and my company continued dancing and rioting till morning. They
brought in several Jewish women, and carried the farce to such a
length, that I was completely rejoiced to get rid of them,
determining, in my own mind, never again to venture such another
entertainment.
LETTER XXI.
_Prevalent Diseases--Abuse of Stimulants--Medicinal
Well--Sorcery--Hydrophobia._
Mequinez.
Although the plague is not so common in these states as in Turkey and
Egypt, yet it is often brought hither by means of the caravans, and
several articles of luxury imported annually by the merchants from
Mecca and Medina; and, for want of proper precaution, it is suffered
to spread, to desolate, and to stop of its own accord; for the Moors
continue obstinately blinded by the same superstitious and absurd
notions that are entertained by the Mahometans of the Turkish empire,
of its being a punishment occasionally inflicted upon the true
believers by their angry Prophet, and that it is incurable; and here I
receive on this subject the same tales and romantic accounts that I
did during my residence in Egypt in the year 1801.
The most prevailing diseases in this country that have come under my
observation, are, cutaneous disorders of all kinds, intermittent
fevers, those of a putrid, malignant, pestilential kind, and the
puerperal fever, which proceeds from the barbarous treatment of
lying-in women in this country, as they are kept in small confined
rooms, deprived of the benefit of pure air.
One day I went to see a very fine young woman, the lady of one of the
Xeriffes. The heat of the room was intolerable. After much persuasion,
I succeeded in having her removed to a cooler one, and she recovered,
contrary to the predictions of the female attendant, who reported the
daily changes to a celebrated doctor here. It is wonderful what
numbers of young women fall victims to this fever in the course of a
year.
Besides the above-mentioned complaints, I have observed insanity,
epilepsy, spasmodic affections of the face, ruptures of all kinds
(which last are produced by their loose kind of trowsers); nervous
consumptions, extreme debility, and dropsy, brought on by their
indolent manner of living, and the great abuses of violent doses of
drastic medicines.
The principal and opulent inhabitants of this country, in order to
excite certain desires, are frequently in the habit of receiving, from
their own doctors, several strong and powerful stimulants, to the
infallible detriment and ultimate, destruction of their
constitutions. I have been at great pains to deter them from these
abominable habits, by representing to them their ill effects and fatal
consequences; but as they all appear to have a great propensity for a
short life and a merry one, I fear my advice has been thrown away, for
I have daily the most pressing and importunate solicitations from all
classes of people, both young and old, to give them the medicines I
have alluded to:--but 1 must here be clearly understood, that
debauchery which exists in all the principal towns of this country in
a superlative degree, does not extend to the inland and mountainous
parts, where the morals are pure, and the people remarkably healthy,
strong, and robust, living to a very advanced age, and scarcely ever
afflicted with any disease excepting cutaneous disorders, to which
they are very subject. The great abuse of blood-letting on all
trifling occasions, practised by the rich inhabitants, produces very
bad effects.
There is a well in the neighbourhood of this town, which possesses a
great many medicinal virtues; and though I have not been able to
ascertain its mineral qualities, I have found, by using the water,
that it is extremely friendly to the stomach, that it excites appetite
and digestion, and lively spirits; that it is efficacious in the cure
of gravel and nephritic complaints; and in cases of foulness of the
blood, I have found it superior to any mineral waters I have met with
in Europe. It has completely cured my Jew servant of a most
inveterate scurvy, under which he had laboured for a very considerable
time.
Notwithstanding the Moors possess this inestimable treasure near one
of their most opulent and populous cities, yet, owing to fabulous
tales, handed down by tradition from one generation to another, these
superstitious people will never drink or disturb the water; to do so
is reckoned sacrilege, and the offender is severely punished: for they
positively affirm, that one of their great saints has been transmuted
into it, and that at some distant period he will resume his natural
form, to perform a great many miracles, and to render the Moors rich
and happy, more so indeed than Mahomet has promised them in the other
world.
While I have been here, I have had daily intercourse with the most
eminent of their Tweebs. They pay me regular morning visits,
questioning me on several points. One day I was asked by what means
health was preserved, and what produced disease in the human body; I
answered, that, "among several other remote causes, the air, by its
different constitutions, had a great effect upon the human frame: that
diseases revolve periodically, and keep time and measure exactly with
the seasons of the year; and that either health or disease depended in
some measure on the universal influence of the air, by its gravity,
heat, cold, moisture, dryness, or exhalations." They have no idea of
natural philosophy, nor of the knowledge and physiology of the air, or
how to change and destroy its bad qualities in close and confined
places. After much persuasion, I prevailed on some of them to make use
of the fuming mixture of brimstone and aromatic ingredients, in all
cases of pestilential fevers. Though this is not so efficacious as
the nitrous acid, yet it will considerably abate the progress of
contagion, and they are acquainted with the materials of the former,
whereas they have not the smallest idea of the latter.
They are perfectly ignorant of the animal and comparative anatomy, and
of physiology and pathology. They have no notion either of the nervous
fluid, or of the solids, their restriction and relaxation. They have
no other idea of the fluids than the blood, to a superabundance of
which they attribute all the diseases incident to the human body. In
the spring they recommend bleeding, to ensure a good state of health
for the remainder of the year. These Tweebs are wonderfully reserved
in all their actions.
The Moors have great faith in sorcery and witchcraft. I was called
upon to visit a young man about eighteen, who was universally believed
to be possessed by an evil spirit. His case was a confirmed
hydrophobia. I informed the people that the disease was occasioned by
the bite of a mad dog, and that the man would die in the course of the
ensuing night. I inquired the next morning, when I found that I had
judged correctly. I have also visited several young women who were
reported to have been bewitched. Some I found labouring under the last
stage of a nervous consumption; others under a dangerous and incurable
lunacy. In short, nothing can exceed the ignorance and superstition of
these deluded people.
I am afraid, my dear D----, I have trespassed on your patience, both
in this letter and the last, as nothing but physic and its
practitioners have been introduced and discussed. I have certainly
been too selfish; for, while I have been pursuing a subject the most
interesting to me from the nature of my profession, a thought never
once obtruded itself, that my friend perhaps would take no interest in
the relation. However, by way of compensation, I give you leave to
wish the Moorish physicians and their physic at the bottom of the Red
Sea, and me with them, if you choose; but I have now done with them,
and my next will, most probably, not be from Mequinez, as I think I
have a good opportunity of returning to Gibraltar.
LETTER XXII.
_Depart for Gibraltar--Oppressive Heat--Robbers--Arrive at
Larache--Affray of some English Sailors--Letter from the Governor to
Lord Collingwood._
Larache, August I, 1806.
I was perfectly right in my conjectures, that you would hear no more
from me at Mequinez. Having succeeded in curing the patients under my
care, and no disease of any consequence prevailing in the country, I
thought it a favourable opportunity to request permission of the
Emperor to return to Gibraltar; and having obtained it, I set off for
this place.
On my way hither, I experienced the most dreadful inconvenience from
the heat of the weather; it was oppressive in the extreme, and I was
constantly annoyed with the sight of dead horses, mules, asses, cows,
&c. that had perished on the road, from excessive heat and want of
water. The rivers which I had observed on my way to Mequinez, and the
waters of which I had so much relished, I now found completely dried
up. We also suffered considerably from the want of fresh water, for
that we had brought with us in bags became so hot, that nothing but
the most dire necessity could have compelled us to make use of it;
fortunately we now and then met with fields full of fine water-melons,
of a most exquisite flavour: we sought them with the greatest avidity,
and obtained relief from the excessive thirst with which we were
oppressed. We were obliged to make very short stages, and to halt
every hour under the shade of some tall trees, to recover ourselves.
I have had two or three most unpleasant encounters (on my way from
Mequinez) with robbers. In the first I ran the risk of my life. It was
the sixth day after we left Mequinez, as I was loitering considerably
in the rear of my party, I was accosted by a common Moor on horseback,
who, after surveying me from head to foot, asked for a pinch of snuff,
which I gave him; then spying the gold chain of my watch, he attempted
to seize it; but I prevented him by spurring my horse and galloping
off to join my guard: the fellow fired his piece, which fortunately
missed, and gave me an opportunity of returning the compliment, and of
wounding him; when perceiving my guard coming at full speed to my
assistance, wounded as he was, he made off across the fields, and was
soon out of sight. This event (which, had I been in other
circumstances, would have had no weight with me) I frankly confess so
much agitated my spirits, already exhausted by the intense heat and
intolerable thirst under which I suffered, that I found myself unable
to proceed much further. At a little distance was a forest, and to the
shade of that we determined to repair for the rest of the day,
provided we could find a convenient spot to pitch our tents upon. We
reached it about nine o'clock in the morning: I was assisted to
dismount, and stretching myself on the burnt grass, under a clump of
olive-trees, I desired my men to look about for a place to erect our
tents. After a few minutes absence, they returned with the joyful
intelligence, that they had met with a fine spring of water, and near
it a sufficient space for our tents. This might indeed be called
resuscitation to our drooping spirits. I arose with more alertness
than I thought possible, and followed my men to this delightful
spot. My wine was expended, and we were therefore glad of a glass of
spirits and water, which completely recovered us; and we were enabled
to enjoy a good dinner, which my Jew servant prepared.
We encamped, on this spot, for the night also; and from the occurrence
of the morning, I thought it highly expedient to take every measure to
prevent a repetition. I therefore ordered two or three fires to be
kindled round our tents, and placed several sentinels about, to watch
if any one approached. Having made these arrangements, and given
strict orders to the serjeant to be on the alert, I repaired to rest;
but there certainly was some spell, to prevent my enjoying what I
stood so much in need of, a _sound_ sleep. I had retired, but a very
short time, to my tent, when I was suddenly roused by an alarm of The
robbers! the robbers! The ruffians had contrived to slip in so
privately, that, unperceived, they carried off one of my trunks, and
were in the act of mounting two of my mules, when they were
detected. They instantly made off with the trunk and mules. The
confusion among my people was much greater than was necessary, and
some time was lost in useless upbraidings.
I went out with the intention of calling the serjeant to a severe
account, when I was informed that he had just gone in pursuit with six
others. Those that remained kept vigilant watch with me the rest of
the night. At break of day our party returned. They soon came up with
the robbers, who, finding themselves so closely pursued, and likely to
be overtaken, relinquished their booty to facilitate their escape. I
had the satisfaction therefore to recover my trunk and mules. The
serjeant employed the whole of his rhetorical abilities to give weight
to the affair. I soon perceived that his account was much exaggerated,
and immediately comprehended that his drift was to obtain a reward
from me. I did not disappoint him, but ordered an extra allowance of
rum to him and the rest of the party. As you may suppose, I was very
anxious to quit a place where I had been made so uneasy, I ordered the
tents to be struck; and, after riding five hours, we halted near a
village, upon a pleasant hill about thirty miles from Larache, where
we were abundantly supplied with provisions by the Cadi. From this
place we had a most delightful prospect of the Atlantic Ocean to our
left, and, to the right and front, an extensive forest and an immense
plain of corn-fields and meadows. We set forward again at daybreak;
and by pursuing our journey in the afternoon, for it was utterly
impossible to travel in the middle of the day, we reached this city
(Larache) late in the evening.
After breakfast next morning, as I was going up to the Castle to pay
my devoirs to the worthy Governor, my attention was arrested by a
great riot in the street. Perceiving four of our sailors likely to
become the victims of an enraged multitude, I hastened to their
relief. I found that the disturbance was occasioned by their
imprudence in attempting to inspect the face of a Moorish woman. They
belonged to a Gibraltar privateer, which had just arrived at this port
to take in refreshment. Having drank too much _aguardiente_ they
imagined themselves in the streets of Gibraltar. I found no great
difficulty in prevailing on the mob not to injure them, and in
ensuring them a safe conduct back to their vessel. I recommended the
commander of the privateer to put to sea without loss of time. The
Governor not only forgave the offence, but sent plenty of fresh
provisions on board for the ship's company just as the vessel was
getting under way.
Commanders of armed vessels putting into a port of these states should
not, on any account, suffer their men to go on shore, as they are very
apt to ridicule the Moors, who are a set of people not to be trifled
with. To prevent, therefore, any unpleasant occurrences, that may tend
to lessen the high opinion which the Moors in general entertain of the
English, and in order to defeat the views of the French party, which
are incessantly directed towards forming dangerous cabals against the
interest of the British nation, some effectual means ought to be
applied. The Moors are very fickle, and their predilection may be
converted into hatred, which is exactly the point the French aim at,
to the great detriment of our fleet stationed in those seas, but
particularly to the garrison of Gibraltar, and would ultimately
involve us in an unprofitable war.
His Excellency has written to Lord Collingwood, to request a vessel to
convey me to Gibraltar; he has very handsomely given me a copy of the
letter he sent, which I inclose for your perusal.
"Larache, July 27th, 1806.
"MY LORD,
"His Imperial Majesty has been pleased to bestow on Dr. Buffa many
presents, consisting of horses, mules, &c. &c. and entertains a great
regard for him on account of the good he has done in Barbary; my Royal
Master has also been graciously pleased to give him a letter to the
King of England, intreating that the Doctor be permitted to attend the
Emperor occasionally, and to reside for the future, for that service,
at Tangiers or Gibraltar.
"In compliance with His Imperial Majesty's wishes, I have now most
earnestly to request that your Lordship will be pleased to order
Dr. Buffa a sure conveyance to the garrison of Gibraltar, and one of
His Majesty's transports to receive the presents given to him, as a
reward for his merit, and for his good and steady conduct during his
stay with us. The Doctor carries with him the good wishes of all the
Moors attached to my Royal Master; and I have the honour to assure
your Lordship, that he has daily exerted himself with me, and lately
with His Imperial Majesty, for the service of his King, and for that
of his fellow-subjects at Gibraltar. On this account alone I hope your
Lordship will, as soon as possible, afford him an opportunity to join
his family, at Gibraltar, in safety.
"I have the honour to be,
"My Lord,
"Your Lordship's
"Friend and servant,
(Signed)
"MOHAMMED ABDALLAH ESLAWEE,
Governor of Larache, &c. &c. &c.
_To the Right Hon. Lord Collingwood,
Admiral and Commander in Chief, &c. &c. &c._
LETTER XXIII.
Embark for Gibraltar--Precautionary Hints.
Gibraltar.
In compliance with the request of the Governor of Larache, His
Majesty's hired armed ship the Lord Eldon was ordered by Lord
Collingwood to convey me to this place. She arrived at Larache about a
week after I wrote last. The bar unfortunately proved so bad, that she
was obliged to drop her anchor on the outside; and the Captain,
conceiving it an unsafe anchorage, pressed me to repair on board
without delay, which I did, after taking a long farewell of my noble
friend the Governor, who, with tears in his eyes, embraced me, and
otherwise evinced his infinite regret and true friendship.
We embarked all my horses, mules, &c. &c. without any accident, and
immediately after set sail for Tangiers. I cannot find words to
describe the interesting, curious, and romantic appearance of the
Barbary coast, from Larache to Tangiers, when viewed from the sea. I
took my station on the quarter-deck, and, as we sailed close in shore,
my curiosity was fully gratified. There are several small bays and
creeks along this coast, which unfortunately afford shelter to the
enemy's privateers, where, in perfect security, they remain concealed,
watching an opportunity to come out and seize any of our straggling
vessels that have either separated from, or are waiting for convoy to
enter the Straits.
It is a great pity that the number of our gun-boats at this port
(Gibraltar) is so limited, as a larger number of them, and a few other
small vessels kept in readiness here, and well appointed, would
protect our commerce, and prevent our suffering so much from the
Spanish boats, and several small French cruizers, which infest this
part of the world, and almost daily capture some of our merchantmen,
which they carry into Algesiras in sight of this garrison.
APPENDIX.
No. I.
Copy of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esquire, Chairman to the Board of
Trade, to E. COOKE, Esquire, Under Secretary of State, &c. &c. &c.
SIR,
In my capacity of General Chairman of the Merchants trading to the
Mediterranean, and in consequence of the commercial relations which I
have long maintained with Gibraltar, I think it my duty to submit,
with great deference, to the consideration of Lord Castlereagh certain
observations respecting the late dreadful calamity, which afflicted
that garrison. The great mortality which then prevailed, and which
carried off almost the whole of the civil inhabitants, was in a great
degree to be imputed to the want of medical assistance for the poorer
classes of the people, who are chiefly foreigners. The physicians and
surgeons attached to the army, had every moment of their time fully
occupied by the care of the troops immediately under their charge. If
even they could have spared a little attention to the miserable
objects just mentioned, it could probably have produced but a very
inadequate effect. As the medical gentlemen could not be supposed to
be acquainted with the various foreign dialects that these people
could only make use of, they were therefore obliged to be abandoned to
their fate; and by their numerous deaths, and the intercourse they had
with one another, necessarily occasioned a deplorable increase of
contagion. It is therefore respectfully suggested, that, as the return
of such a disorder ought at any rate to be guarded against, it would
be highly desirable, that a medical gentleman, conversant with the
languages of the southern parts of Europe, should be appointed as
physician to the civil inhabitants of Gibraltar, and for their express
and immediate care. There is now in London, a gentleman (Doctor
Buffa), Physician to His Majesty's Forces, who appears to be
peculiarly well qualified for such an appointment. He is possessed of
superior medical abilities, and particularly in the disorders of the
plague and yellow-fever, in the treatment of which he has had much
experience and success; and having been born in Piedmont, he is well
acquainted with the southern languages of Europe. If Lord Castlereagh
should be pleased to approve of Doctor Buffa being placed at
Gibraltar, in the situation which I have taken the liberty to suggest,
it would occasion no extraordinary expense to Government, Doctor Buffa
being now one of the Physicians to the Army, and might eventually be
productive of the most beneficial effects.
I have the honour to be, most respectfully,
SIR,
Your most obedient and
Most humble servant,
(Signed) JOHN TURNBULL.
Guilford Street, 5th August 1805.
E. Cooke, Esq.
&c. &c. &c.
No. II.
Letter from the Secretary of the Transport Board to Dr. BUFFA.
Transport Office, 16th October 1805.
SIR,
I am directed by the Board to acquaint you, that a passage to
Gibraltar has been provided for yourself, Mrs. Buffa, your family and
brother-in-law, on board the Active transport; and that you may embark
on board that ship at Deptford immediately.
I am further directed to add, that it will be necessary for you to
find your own provisions.
I am, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
A. WHITEHEAD, Secretary.
_To Dr. Buffa,
&c. &c. &c._
No. III.
Extract of a Letter from JOHN TURNBULL, Esq. Chairman of the
Committee of Merchants trading to the Levant, &c. to Dr. BUFFA.
MY DEAR SIR,
On your arrival at Gibraltar, I was favoured with two letters from
you; but have not since had the pleasure of hearing from you. Nor have
I written to you, as, notwithstanding the unremitting endeavours, and
the constant attention, on every occasion, of His Royal Highness and
myself, it has not been in our power to do any thing effectual to
serve you. The Medical Board _continue to give all the opposition that
they possibly can_, and made a very unfavourable report, in
consequence of a strong representation that I made in your favour to
Mr. Windham.
London, 7th July 1806.
No. IV.
Extract of a Letter from JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting
Consul General at Tangiers, to Dr. BUFFA.
Friday, 7th May 1806.
DEAR SIR,
I heard only to-day of your arrival at
Tetuan on your way to Larache, and this evening
received an express from Indy Mahamed Slawey,
Governor of that place, to request that, if I knew
you had been in this country, you would use
every possible endeavour to come to him at
Larache; and to accompany him to the Emperor
who wished to see you.
Let me therefore request your moving as quick
as possible to Larache direct from Tetuan, and
join him before he departs. Should you miss
him, he has left orders to his Lieutenant-governor
there, to forward you to Sidy immediately.
No. V.
Letter written to JOHN ROSS, Esq. Acting Consul General at Tangiers.
Larache, May 17th, 1806.
SIR,