Larache; and this evening I received a letter from Sidy Mahommed
Eslawee, Governor of that place, to request, that, if I knew you were
in this country, I would beg you to use, every possible endeavour to
come to him at Larache, and to accompany him to the Emperor, who
wishes very much to see you. Let me therefore request your repairing
as quickly as possible to Larache, and joining him before he departs;
but should you miss him, he has left orders with his
Lieutenant-governor there, to forward you on immediately. I should
hope this jaunt will prove highly beneficial to you. Nothing on my
part shall be wanting, either in advice, or information, by which you
may think I can be of service. If you should see Governor Eslawee
before my letter reaches him, give him my kindest and best wishes; and
say that I hope, as he has been for a great many years past a sincere
friend to the British nation, his friendship will continue true and
steadfast.
"I remain, dear Sir,
"Your most obedient humble servant,
(Signed) "JOHN ROSS,
"To Dr. Buffa,
&c. &c. &c.
Tetuan."
In consequence of this request, I am making preparations for my
departure by to-morrow morning. I shall write to you again from
Larache. Though I have described every thing worthy of notice in that
town in a former letter, yet I know you will wish to learn how I am
received by the Governor on this my second trip.
LETTER IX.
_Journey to Larache--Annual Socco of St. Martin--No Christian
permitted to witness it--Express Order for that Purpose in the
Author's Favour--Specimen of native medical Skill--Reception at
Larache--Complain of the Impositions of Governor Ash-Ash--Comparative
Tariff--Effect the Renewal of the old Tariff with increasing
Advantages._
Larache.
Before I introduce you a second time to the Governor, or relate my
reception from him, I must beg leave to give you a description of my
journey hither. Methinks I hear you say, "That is unnecessary, as, no
doubt, it was much the same as before." No such thing, I assure you;
for, in the first place, my style of travelling was infinitely
superior, being provided, by the Moorish Governor, with a double
guard, and having also eleven mules allowed me to carry my baggage,
which, with two muleteers, my interpreter, and servant, made no
despicable appearance. I had, besides, to contend with very stormy
weather, which gave the country quite a different aspect. From
incessant rains, the rivers had overflowed, and nearly the whole of
the country was under water, which rendered our journey not only
difficult but dangerous. We were obliged to halt for two days, near a
village, till the waters subsided; and during this time we feasted on
fine fresh-water fish, and wild fowl. On the third day we proceeded;
and here I must not omit an occurrence which served still further to
give me an insight into the general character of this once powerful
people.
Fortunately (or unfortunately, some would say, who weighed the perils
I had to encounter in the accomplishment of my wishes) I passed, on
the day the inhabitants were meeting, the annual Socco of St. Martin,
so called from its being held at the place whence the river of that
name takes its source. I did not pass immediately over the spot, but
so near, that I could perceive a multitude of people assembled
together. To obtain a better view of what they were about,
notwithstanding the representations of my conductors, that no
Christian was suffered to be present at this fair, I proceeded towards
the crowd; but before I could reach the place, I was assailed by
hundreds of people, who saluted me with such a discharge of stones,
and even some fire-arms, that I was extremely glad to make good my
retreat, which, with the aid of my guard, I effected, without
sustaining any injury.
Enraged at being thus foiled in my attempt, I hit upon a plan the most
likely to succeed in gratifying my curiosity; which was, to send the
Serjeant to the Cadi, to insist upon going up to the fair, and
threatening to complain to the Emperor if he refused me. This had the
desired effect. A deputation was ordered by the Cadi, with assurances
that I was welcome among them. Accordingly, I repaired once more, to
the scene of action.
The great show of cattle, sheep, &c. exposed for public sale, by men
and women half naked, first attracted my attention; which was however
soon diverted from them to a Moorish juggler, and a rope-dancer, the
latter performing several feats of great muscular strength. The people
had formed a complete circle, sitting cross-legged round the
rope-dancer. He was making a good collection, when the arrival of a
celebrated _tweeb_ (the native term for a physician) spoiled his
sport. At the sound of an instrument somewhat resembling a horn, they
all started up, and flocked to the standard of this professor of the
healing art, leaving the poor rope-dancer to finish his performance,
or not, as he pleased. I found this new constellation to be a doctor
of high renown, and a reputed saint, who lived in a neighbouring
village, and who, as was his custom, had condescended to honour this
annual meeting with his presence; selling and dispensing his
medicines, arid at the same time performing surgical and dental
operations.
In order to have a full view of this Moorish Esculapius, I approached
as closely as the multitude collected round him would allow. He was
attended by a negro slave, and two disciples. Ere long, four Moors
brought a poor emaciated wretch, to obtain advice and relief from this
redoubtable doctor. The unfortunate man was unable, from his reduced
state, to stand. Having examined the eyes, tongue, and face of his
patient, he made a solemn pause, and appeared to deliberate very
profoundly, at length, he decided upon blood-letting _ad deliquium_,
and immediately took from his patient eighteen ounces of blood; nor
would he, in all probability, have stopped there, had the strength of
the poor man allowed him to continue; but having brought on a
_syncope_, he was obliged to desist. The arm was tied up with a
handkerchief; the doctor received his fee from one of his patient's
relatives; and the patient was left entirely to the efforts of nature
in his favour. For humanity's sake, I afforded him every assistance in
my power, and, after much difficulty, succeeded in restoring him to
his senses; but he was so weakened by the absurd treatment he had
experienced, as to have no chance of surviving the day. As the
multitude firmly believed him to be quite dead, this apparent
resuscitation astonished the people beyond measure; and from this
circumstance supplies of every kind of provision were poured in on me,
from all quarters.
Soon after the above scene, a young woman presented herself, afflicted
with a violent tooth-ache. The doctor, after his usual deliberation,
resolved to extract the dolent tooth; and taking a string from his
box, he fastened it round the tooth, and by a sudden jerk (which, from
its force, I expected would have brought away jaw and all), he drew it
out. The poor girl bore the operation with exemplary patience and
fortitude; and having satisfied the sapient doctor, she retired.
Whilst I was thus occupied in observing the wonderful proceedings of
this singular practitioner, an uproar in another part of the fair
attracted my notice. Curiosity prompted me to inquire into its cause,
and I found it was occasioned by a wild mountaineer, who had been
detected in the act of stealing a Moorish garment. He was seized, and
taken before the Cadi, who ordered him the bastinado immediately;
which was inflicted with such severity, that I could not forbear
interceding for the fellow. The Cadi kindly remitted part of the
punishment, and the culprit was set at liberty.
Finding nothing else likely to compensate my longer stay, I summoned
my suite, and proceeded on my journey, reflecting on the mutability of
all earthly prosperity, which was so strongly exemplified in the
history of the Moorish nation. The scene I had just left, argued such
a small remove from absolute barbarism, that, more than once, I could
not avoid exclaiming: "Are these the descendants of those people, who,
for so many centuries, gave laws to the greater part of Spain, and
subjected whole provinces to their dominion? But those times are
past, and, 'like the baseless fabric of a vision,' left 'not a wreck
behind'."
After a journey of six days (which might have been performed in three,
but for the delays I have spoken of), we arrived here. His Excellency
the Governor, and his suite, came out to meet me. He embraced me very
cordially, and conducted me to the castle, where I was served with a
sumptuous collation. The Governor being in hourly expectation of the
orders of his Sovereign to repair to court, has his route made out,
and has requested me to keep myself in readiness to depart at an
hour's notice.
I have received several letters by express, from, our Consul-general,
complaining of Governor _Ash-Ash_, who has refused granting the
regular supplies to our fleet, and the garrison of Gibraltar. From the
character I have given you of this man, in a former letter, you will
feel less astonished, when I inform you of his shameful conduct. His
rapacity and avarice are unbounded. He refuses the regular supplies,
insisting upon an additional duty being paid, besides the enormous one
already imposed, on articles furnished to the English, contrary to the
tariff established by treaty. Accordingly, I laid the following copy
of the original tariff before His Excellency, and subjoined the
imposition of Ash-Ash. _Order to be observed by the British
Vice-consuls, at Tetuan and Tangiers, respecting the English._
DUTY.
Spanish Dollars
Cows, calves, and oxen, whether
stall-fed or not, per head 5 now 25
Cobs. Cobs.
Sheep and goats, per ditto 2 -- 7
Fowls, per dozen 1 -- 6
Lemons and oranges, per thousand 1 -- 5
Eggs, Per ditto 1 -- 5
Dates, per quintal 4 -- 8
Orange-trees, each 1 -- 2
Figs, raisins, almonds, nuts, rhubarb,
oil, honey, soap, olives,
and red pepper, per quintal 2 -- 12
Wheat, barley, oats, rice, and bean,
per measure 1 -- 6
Straw, by the nett 1/4 -- 1
Pomegranates, amber-wood, %c., per quintal 1 -- 4
Bees-wax and candles, per ditto 14 -- 26
Ostrich feathers, per lb. 2 -- 16
Ivory, copper, sandrach, chohob,
and gum arabic, per quintal 5 -- 15
Indigo, per ditto 1 -- 10
Goat skins, per quintal 4 -- 8
Beef ditto, per ditto 3 -- 6
Lion and tiger ditto, each 4 -- 12
Common tanned leather,per quintal 1 -- 5
Morocco ditto free -- 5
Wool and hemp, per quintal 3 -- 6
All shoes and slippers,per hundred pair 4 -- 10
Moorish caps, per ditto 4 -- 10
Mats, each 1 -- 5
Mules, ditto 10 -- 50
Asses, ditto 5 -- 10
Silk alhaiks, ditto 2 -- 5
Haiks of other kinds, ditto 1 -- 3
This is a correct translation of the agreement, and tariff, settled
eleven years ago, between the present Emperor Muley Solyman, and the
late Consul-general Mr. Matra. Having laid this before His
Excellency, I was so fortunate as to prevail on him to request the
Emperor to renew it, and to grant an increase of fresh provisions,
during the war, to the fleet off Cadiz, and to the garrison of
Gibraltar.
It is impossible to doubt for a moment, at at whose instigation it was
that Ash-Ash behaved in this infamous manner. It is certainly the
interest of the French nation to prevent, if possible, our receiving
supplies from Barbary; consequently we cannot wonder that every means
should be employed to accomplish this end, and Ash-Ash is certainly
the fittest instrument, from his hatred to the English: fortunately,
however, he is not a free agent. My friend, and the friend of the
English, the good Governor of this place, referred the whole to the
Emperor, who has very satisfactorily adjusted every thing to our
advantage, and the mortification of the French Consul, and his tool.
At the same time that His Excellency received the answer from the
Emperor to the above-mentioned application, a letter arrived,
requiring his immediate attendance at Fez; from which place you shall
again hear from me.
LETTER X.
_Depart from Larache with a little Army--Moorish military
Salute--Numerous Villages--Customary Procession of the
Inhabitants--Judicial Arrangements--River Beth resembles the Po--Herds
of Camels--Arrive at Mequinez--French Falsehood again put
down--Excellent Road from Mequinez--Fertility and Luxuriance of the
adjacent Country--Procession to the Sanctuary of Sidy
Edris--Multiplicity of Saints--Ceremony demonstrative of the Emperor's
Favour--Take possession of my new Residence._
Fez, ---- 1806.
In consequence of the dispatches received from the Emperor, we left
Larache the same day. The Governor commands a territory of two hundred
English miles. He put himself at the head of his troops, which
amounted to six thousand cavalry, divided into squadrons,
distinguished by their respective standards. There were in his train,
besides, a prodigious number of mules, some carrying field equipage
and provisions, others the treasures, consisting of the collected
taxes, and presents for the Emperor.
This little army moved on in tolerably good order and discipline. It
was preceded by an officer at the head of a small corps, doing the
duty of a Quarter-master-general. We were met on our way by several
officers, with small detachments of soldiers, under the government of
His Excellency. The Moorish mode of saluting attracted my attention;
when on a level in point of rank, the officers embrace each other, and
then kiss the back of their own hand; but in saluting a superior, they
kiss the hem of his garment; upon which he presents his hand, and they
salute it. I assure you, they do all this with considerable grace.
In passing through villages (which in this part are very numerous, and
formed of a much greater collection of tents than those described in a
former letter), we were received by a great concourse of men, women,
and children, shouting, and making a noise exactly resembling the
whoop of the North American savages. I was informed, that this was
their usual mode of expressing their joy and mirth, on all great and
solemn occasions. A venerable Moor, the chief of the surrounding
villages, accompanied by the military and civil officers, and by the
principal inhabitants, advanced to kiss the garment of His Excellency:
this ceremony was closed by a train of women, preceded by an elderly
matron, carrying a standard of colours, made of various fillets of
silk; and by a young one of great beauty, supporting on her head a
bowl of fresh milk, which she presented, first to the Governor (or, as
he is otherwise called, the Sheik), then to me, and afterwards to all
the officers. This ceremony is always performed by the prettiest young
woman of the village; and it not unfrequently happens, that her beauty
captivates the affections of the great men (sometimes even the
Emperor), and she becomes the legitimate and favourite wife.
When we arrived at any village, His Excellency halted to receive the
report of the commanding officer; and to inquire if any murder,
robbery, or other crimes, militating against the laws and constitution
of the empire, had been perpetrated. This excellent man patiently
listened to all the complaints made to him; and after hearing both
parties with the greatest impartiality, he ordered such delinquents as
stood fairly convicted to be punished by imprisonment, or fine,
according to the nature of their offences. At one place where he held
a court of justice, he received information of a band of assassins who
had lately committed several murders and highway robberies, and had
violated many young women, whom they afterwards destroyed. By this
prompt and judicious arrangement, they were all secured, and brought
before him. He ordered them to be dragged in the rear of his troops to
Fez; there to receive whatever punishment the Emperor might think fit
to award them.
We performed our route by short and easy stages, on a road which is
perfectly level, and very different from those between Tetuan or
Tangiers and Larache. We generally halted about two o'clock in the
afternoon, and encamped; struck tents again at four in the morning,
and then moved on regularly without noise or confusion.
On approaching the river _Beth_, we halted, to allow the baggage to
cross, which was expeditiously conveyed in a large ferry-boat; the
horses and mules were obliged to swim over, a spectacle curious and
diverting enough. I passed over with the Governor; after which the
boat went backwards and forwards till the whole of the troops were
transported across the river, when we encamped, the side which we had
quitted being occupied by another little army, headed by the Governor
of another district. The two opposite camps had much the appearance of
two hostile armies previous to a battle.
This river very much resembles the _Po_ in Italy, and is perfectly
navigable. On each side are immense fields of corn and rice,
intersected by tracts of waste land covered with broom and heath, and
spots of pasture-land on which large droves of camels graze. To
prevent the camels from straying, they have one of their fore legs
bent at the first joint, and tied up: they are attended by boys, who
take them out early in the morning, and at night bring them back to
the tents, before which each camel takes his place as regularly as our
cows do in their stalls.
The next morning we reached a castle, and a ruinous walled town,
occupied by soldiers, and slaves, who look after the herds of mules
belonging to the Emperor. It is situated on a hill, whence I had a
prospect of the immense plain we had first traversed, upon which not a
single tree is to be seen.
About noon, on the sixth day, we approached a lofty mountain, which
terminated this extensive plain, and formed the commencement of a
chain of high hills, which we ascended and descended successively, and
at length descried the large and populous city of Mequinez: we passed
by a long aqueduct, a remnant of ancient architecture, and several
Roman ruins, and reached one of the great gates of the town, where we
were met by a strong detachment of soldiers commanded by the Governor,
who, after the salutations and ceremonies usual on such occasions,
escorted us to the palace of Eslawee, the Governor of Larache, where I
was kindly received and most hospitably entertained by all his
relations and friends.
On the morning after our arrival at Mequinez, an express arrived from
the Emperor with an answer to a representation which I had made
concerning the loss of a French privateer on the coast of Barbary; I
had sent it at the same time with that respecting the tariff, and
expected the answers together. The affair was this: a French
privateer attempted to board several of our transports, laden with
bullocks, from Tangiers for Gibraltar; but had scarcely succeeded with
one, when the Confounder gun-brig, which was appointed to convoy them,
came unobserved, within pistol-shot, and after an obstinate engagement
of two hours the Frenchman ran on shore, and went to pieces
immediately under the Moorish battery. This was considered, by the
French Consul and his party, as an open violation of neutrality, and
also a gross insult to His Imperial Majesty; and as such it was
represented to him by Governor _Ash-Ash_, seconded by a letter from
the French Consul, and supported by all his partisans. On our part,
the statement was founded on simple facts, which perfectly satisfied
the Emperor, and Governor _Ash-Ash_ received a severe reprimand,
accompanied by the remark, that His Imperial Majesty regretted the
English had been so passive on this occasion, and that his subjects
did not exterminate every Frenchman that presumed to land on his
shores without his permission. You will feel assured that this
additional triumph on our part gave me no small satisfaction.
My good friend Eslawee obtained leave likewise, to repose himself and
his army for three days in his native place. This condescension was
esteemed as an excellent omen. At the conclusion of the appointed
time, we set off for this our ultimate destination. The road from
Mequinez to Fez is excellent, extending along a pleasant and spacious
plain, encompassed by high mountains, and intersected by small rivers,
over which are stone bridges. These rivers are divided into several
branches, which are again subdivided by the inhabitants, and carried
in canals to water their lands. The prospect of the country is every
where luxuriant in the extreme, and continually presents the most
interesting objects. A scattered ruin, a large village, a meandering
river, or a fine natural cascade, vineyards, woods, corn-fields,
meadows, and saints' houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens and
shrubberies, all lying in endless variety, formed the most picturesque
landscapes.
As we left our quarters at Mequinez rather late, we encamped at eight
o'clock in the evening at the opening of the plain I have just
described. The next morning we set off much earlier than usual, but
had not proceeded far when our progress was interrupted by a
prodigious multitude of people, who pressed forward with such
eagerness, that we were obliged to stand aside, and allow them to
pass. Men, on horseback and on foot, women, and children, formed a
procession which extended as far as the eye could reach. They were
advancing in several divisions, each division preceded by a man
bearing a standard, and by a band of music (if the horrible discord
produced by their instruments could be dignified with the name of
music), the people accompanying the band with their voices, shouting,
bawling, and bellowing their national songs with the greatest
vehemence.
These people were on their way to visit the sanctuary of _Sidy Edris_,
the founder of Mahometanism in this country: it stands on the mountain
_Zaaron_, at the western side of the plain of Fez, and near the city
of Mequinez. Close to the sanctuary is a village, the inhabitants of
which are held in the highest veneration, their huts and tents being
consecrated to the Mahometan devotion, and, as well as the sanctuary,
forming asylums for malefactors, which are never violated even by the
Emperor. After this visit to the sanctuary, they attend an annual
meeting, where they feast for three days, amusing themselves with
dancing, fighting with wild beasts, and committing all kinds of excess
in the ancient Bacchanalian style.
Formerly saints sprang up in Barbary like mushrooms. A Moor, seized in
the night with a slight fit of insanity, was considered in the morning
as a new saint, and as such he was revered, and his name added to
their list of saints. In consequence of this, he was permitted to do
whatever his fancy directed, without suffering the smallest
molestation. Hence many worthless wretches feigned madness, in order
that they might, with impunity, gratify their avaricious and
revengeful passions, or their violent and ungovernable lust. The
number of these impostors a few years back was incredible, and they
literally held sovereign rule, from their numbers and great influence
over this superstitious and fanatic people; but since the accession of
Muley Solyman to the throne of Morocco, their influence and their
numbers have considerably decreased. The country has been in a great
measure swept and cleansed of imposters and other profligate persons,
and the rest approach more and more towards a tolerable degree of
civilization, under his paternal care and example. His chief study and
attention appear to be directed to the welfare and happiness of his
people.