researches, I returned to this place, greatly chagrined at having been
foiled in my attempts to explore the remains of antiquities in
_Shella_, and other places. I assure you, my disappointment was not
owing to the want either of perseverance or resolution, but the
serjeant of my guard was an ignorant bigot, and a great coward,
therefore unwilling and unable to protect, or share any danger with
me. On my return here, I dismissed him, and obtained another serjeant,
and a new guard, from the Governor, who caused my dismissed serjeant
to be seized; and ordered him the _pallo_; but, at my intercession, he
was pardoned, upon his promising for the future to evince a more
soldierlike conduct, when summoned on duty.
The town of _Alcasser-Quiber_ being only three leagues from this
place, I also went thither, to see the _Socco_, which is held once a
week, and is frequented by a vast number of the inhabitants of the
neighbouring mountains, who carry their produce, consisting of cattle,
fowls, eggs, butter, soft cheese, and large quantities of wool, hides,
and wax.
This city lies to the eastward of Larache, on the banks of the river
_Luxos_, and is separated from the town of _Arzilla_ by alternate
vallies and plains, amongst which some remains of redoubts,
apparently, for the protection and defence of camps, are to be seen,
and near which that unfortunate battle was fought in 1578, wherein
_Don Sebastian_, King of Portugal, lost both his army and his life.
_Alcasser-Quiber_ is a place of some note, carrying on an extensive
and profitable commerce with Tetuan and other places. The town and its
environs suffer greatly by the occasional overflowing of the river
Luxos, which might however easily be remedied; but the Moors have no
notion of altering things; therefore, without endeavouring to secure
themselves from a recurrence of such disasters, they allow their
houses to be filled with water, and themselves to be, not
unfrequently, washed out of them.
This town contains upwards of fifteen hundred families, exclusive of
six hundred Jews, whose quarter is distinct from the Moors. It is
commanded by an Alcaid, subject to the authority of the Governor of
Larache, and ranks among the principal cities of the empire of
Morocco.
LETTER V.
_Leave Larache with an Escort--Curious Custom on returning from
Mecca--Arrive at Tetuan_.
Tetuan.
His Excellency the Governor of Larache being perfectly recovered, I
took my departure from that city. For the sake of novelty, I proposed
returning to Gibraltar, by this route, rather than by Tangiers. I
obtained a letter of recommendation to _Sidy Ash-Ash_, and was
accompanied by a strong guard, provided with a tent, and all other
necessaries for the journey.
On my way hither, I was highly entertained by the Serjeant of the
guard. This man had not long returned from Mecca and Upper Egypt. He
spoke Italian tolerably well, was full of strange notions, and
considered himself quite a superior genius. He told me, that he
expected to be promoted in a very short time, and asked me, whether I
were present at his public entry into the garrison of Larache, on his
return from the sanctuary of Mecca. I smiled, and answered him in the
affirmative. He asked me, why I smiled? "At the novelty of the
exhibition," I replied, "in carrying you to all the mosques, and
afterwards in escorting you in state to your humble habitation."--"It
is but too often the practice," rejoined he, "of petulant infidels to
ridicule us, in the exercise of pious customs and religious duties."
Then spurring his horse, he muttered something abusive, which I
pretended not to hear. However, I found no great difficulty in
appeasing the pious and sanctified serjeant. In short, I dispelled all
his glooms and ill humours, and drowned his scruples, in a cup of port
wine. It is customary among the Moors, when any of them return from
the pilgrimage of Mecca, to go out in great procession to meet the
devout pilgrim, whom some of them carry on their shoulders with great
solemnity through the town and to his own house, where he sits in
state for three days, receiving visits and donations from all classes
of people, who flock with the greatest eagerness to obtain a sight of
him. The conversation was insensibly renewed, and he told me, that of
a company of fifteen pilgrims, who set out for the holy city of Mecca,
he was the sole survivor, the others having all perished in the
deserts. He was the only favoured and true believer that was permitted
to visit the holy sepulchre. He added: "As the dangers attending the
pilgrimage are great and various, does not the happy being, who
returns safe to his native place, deserve the honours and compliments
paid him, for his great perseverance and patience in such a dangerous
undertaking, the success of which is the result of his innate
rectitude?" I gave him to understand that he had made the case
clear. "The French," he continued, "had a design upon the treasures of
Mecca." I agreed that they certainly had; and asked him, by what power
he thought the French army was prevented from possessing itself of
Mecca. "Unquestionably," rejoined he, "by the invincible and invisible
power of our Prophet." In reply to my intimation that it was the
British arms which defeated the French before Acre and Alexandria, and
compelled them to give up the conquest they had made in Egypt, he went
on to say, that "all the great acts of mankind are guided and governed
by a supernatural power. The French were defeated by the English,
because the latter fought under the invincible standard of _Mahomet_;
and so fully convinced are the true believers of this, that we now
consider the English as brethren. I hate the French mortally; they
are a set of bloody impious infidels, and treacherous to a degree; I
would not escort a dog of a Frenchman for all the treasures of the
Emperor; I would rather lose my head than protect one. I fought the
dogs in Egypt; but I took care not to spare one; I laid many of them
in the dust. It behoves every honest Moor to be on his guard against
the intrigues and duplicity of the French. A Moor can certainly face
six of them. The Emperor's troops have more bodily strength than
theirs. By the by, it is whispered about, that they intend paying us a
visit to plunder us, and ravish our fine women. Let them come, we will
meet them, I warrant you, and give them their due. Not one will return
to France to tell his story." I then filled him another cup of port,
to drink destruction to the French, whenever they should attempt
either his shores or ours--and here ended our dialogue. I found him a
_bon-vivant_, willing to overlook certain restrictions of his Prophet,
and to drink his wine like an honest Englishman.
The second day of our journey I had raised his spirits to such a
height, that he wantonly picked a quarrel with the muleteer, and gave
him two or three slight cuts with his sabre, which so much provoked
the honest driver, that, being a stout robust man, he soon dismounted
my hero, and would actually have sent him to the shades below, but for
my interference. When the Serjeant recovered his senses, he was very
much alarmed lest his conduct should be exposed, or reach the ears of
the Governor of Larache. In order therefore to dissipate the fears of
this gallant soldier, I made the muleteer and the other swear, by
their Prophet, to keep the transaction a secret. After this we
travelled on merrily, without further disputes, and arrived here on
the third day. I waited immediately upon, and delivered my letter to
the Governor, who commanded one of his officers to conduct me to the
house of the Vice-consul, where I now remain, in expectation of some
vessel to convey me to Gibraltar.
LETTER VI.
_Ill Usage of a Lieutenant of the Swiftsure--Disaffection of the
Moorish Governor towards Great Britain_.
Gibraltar, March 1806
His Majesty's ship the Swiftsure having arrived at Tetuan, to take in
fresh water, I went on board. The watering-place is about eighteen
miles from Tetuan, and six from the customhouse, at which last place
is a tower, guarded by a strong detachment, and commanded by a
Captain. When the ship had completed her water, signals were made to
strike the tent, and every one to repair on board.
It has always been customary for English men of war going to water
there, to make the commanding officer a present of a cartridge of
powder, which compliment was duly paid by the second Lieutenant of the
Swiftsure; but the Moorish Captain, not contented with one cartridge,
insisted upon having two. The Lieutenant refused to comply with this
new and extraordinary demand; upon which he was immediately seized by
a party of soldiers, who, after knocking him down, pinioned him, and
in this degrading manner marched him up to Tetuan, under a strong
escort.
Captain Rutherford (who commands the Swiftsure), on hearing of this
daring outrage, could with difficulty refrain from making instant
reprisals: but unwilling to embroil the two nations, he sailed without
delay, and arrived in the course of a few hours in this bay. Two days
after Mr. Wickes, the Lieutenant, joined the Swiftsure. He reports,
that, after a most painful march, he was taken before Governor
Ash-Ash, who released him, immediately, and promised to punish the
Captain of the fort for the insult; a promise which, I am pretty
confident, he never performed.
Such an act will naturally inspire you with horror, and induce you to
consider the Moors as a ferocious, barbarous set of people: but,
believe me, it could only have been perpetrated under the government
of _Ash-Ash_. At any other port of Barbary, a British officer will
meet with a most kind and hospitable reception, and every mark of
respect due to him. The Emperor has given Ash-Ash positive orders to
respect the English, and not to take the part of the French, directly
or indirectly; but, as I observed in a former letter, I conceive this
Moor to be completely under French influence.
I am extremely busy in making the necessary preparations for my next
trip; and as you are kind enough to say you are gratified with the
account I have already sent you of the empire of Morocco, and wish me
to continue my remarks, I shall most probably trouble you with a
letter, whenever I meet with any thing that may serve to interest or
amuse you.
LETTER VII.
_Sail for Tetuan--Appearance of the Coast--Enter the Boosega
River--Curious Towers of Defence--Custom-house-Female Dress--Enter
Tetuan over a Road of unlevelled Rock--Disagreeable Streets--Well
received by the Governor--Public Markets--Socco--An Auction Market._
Tetuan; March 14th, 1806
One of His Majesty's brigs having been appointed to convey me either
to Tangiers or Tetuan, the wind blowing due west, we sailed for this
port. As the ship drew near the shore, I had a full view of this wild
coast. The tops of the lofty mountains are prodigious barren rocks,
while their base is interspersed with broom and box. The hills and
dales are covered with myrtles of various kinds, assuming different
shades of lovely green. The towers and castles, which are of a
delicate whiteness, rising in the midst of these groves of myrtles,
render the scene interesting. The plaster made use of in the erection
of these towers is, of itself, extremely white; but the Moors are not
satisfied with this, and they add a whitewash of lime.
The towers are harmless as fortifications, since, for want of skill in
the manufacture of gunpowder, the Moors are very deficient in that
necessary article. No present therefore is more acceptable to them
than a few cartridges of it.
After firing two or three guns by way of signal to the Vice-consul,
announcing my arrival, as the Captain had directions only to put me on
shore, and to proceed to sea immediately to join Lord Collingwood's
fleet, my baggage was put into a large Moorish boat, and I entered the
river _Boosega_ (commonly called St. Martin) in the Captain's barge.
This river is defended by a castle of singular construction, the
entrance to which is by means of a ladder to a door in the upper
story, and which ladder is occasionally drawn up. The four angles of
the building are finished with small turrets, capped with clumsy
domes, and having several ports for cannon. Near this place many of
the Emperor's gallies anchor, and winter.
Having proceeded a considerable way up the river, we landed at another
castle, called the Custom-house. On my landing, I was received by the
Vice-consul (an opulent Jew, and a native of Barbary), accompanied by
the commanding officer and his troop. They conducted me to the
Custom-house, which is built of stone, and whitewashed, arid, at a
distance, appears to very great advantage. We entered this public
building by an arched gateway, and proceeded through a winding passage
into a quadrangle, in the centre of which is a well of excellent
water. Near the well was an arcade, shaded by a grape-vine, to which I
was conducted, and there placed in an old arm-chair. The Vice-consul
and the Moorish commandant seated themselves cross-legged, upon mats
spread upon the floor, and dinner, consisting of roasted fowls and
fried sardinias, was immediately served.
After dinner my baggage was put upon mules, and a saddle-horse was
brought for me. This animal was perfectly white, and loaded with an
enormous saddle, which had a large peak before and behind, covered
with a scarlet cloth, and furnished with a pair of stirrups of a
curious form, much resembling a coal-scuttle; but, _outré_ as
this appeared, I assure you, I found myself very comfortably seated,
and perfectly secure from falling. Thus equipped, we set forward for
Tetuan, accompanied by a Moorish officer and twelve horsemen.
Whips are not in fashion in this country, and their place is supplied
by two long ends of the bridle, cut to a point; but the horses, though
very spirited, are perfectly under command, and need neither whip nor
spur.
The town of Tetuan is seen at a great distance, from being built, like
Tangiers, on the declivity of a high hill, and the houses being
whitewashed. The road from the Custom-house is abominably bad; it lies
across a wearisome, barren plain, surrounded by craggy mountains. Here
and there, indeed, may be seen a small fertile spot, covered with
cattle, sheep, and goats, and occasionally a well, encompassed by a
wall of broad flat stones, capable of affording a seat to a dozen
people. On approaching the city, however, the country appears more
cultivated, luxuriant, and rich.
The figures of some common women, apparently employed in agricultural
occupations, struck me with surprise, as their dress was quite
different from any I had seen when in this country before. On their
head they wore a straw hat, of an enormous circumference; under this
was a piece of white cloth extending over the forehead to the eyes;
and immediately below this another, which reached as far down as the
chin; their eyes peeping through the intermediate space. Their bodies
were enveloped in a coarse haik, a species of serge of their own
manufacture.
Upon entering the city gate, one of my guards took hold of my bridle,
and conducted me over innumerable rocks, to the Jewish town. The
surface of the ground being an uneven rock, which every where remains
unlevelled, the streets consist of abrupt ascents and descents, even
worse than those of Larache; they are also extremely narrow and dirty;
and as the houses have no windows towards the streets, you in fact
pass along between two dead walls, almost suffocated by a hot and
fetid atmosphere.
When we reached the house of the Vice-consul, I was presented with a
glass of _aguardiente_, for refreshment. After having passed the
evening in the company of a numerous party of Barbary Jews, I retired
to bed; and in the morning I waited on the Governor, to pay my
respects to him. On our way thither, I was not a little surprised to
see our Vice-consul pull off his slippers as we passed the mosques,
and walk bare-footed. I soon learned, that the Jews are compelled to
pay this tribute of respect, from which Christians are exempt,
although they do not escape very frequent insults when walking through
the city.
We found His Excellency sitting cross-legged on a tiger-skin, smoking
his pipe, under a niche in one of the courts of his mansion. He
received me with great politeness, and assured me that every thing
should be arranged to render my journey to Larache safe and
agreeable. Both, the Governor and his secretary asked me numberless
questions respecting the laws and manners of the English; to all of
which I gave short and general answers.
As we returned from the castle we passed through a street of unusual
breadth, on each side of which were the shops of the merchants. I
thence proceeded to take a general survey of the city; examining the
different places allotted to people engaged in various branches of
trade, and the manufactories of silk, carpets, and mats; and
afterwards went to the public markets for meat, poultry, vegetables,
cattle, sheep, horses, and mules. They are in spacious squares, and
are exceedingly well stocked. I next went to see the _Socco_, which is
a place appointed for the sale of several articles of wearing apparel
as well as all sorts of goods, by public auction. The auctioneer walks
backwards and forwards, exhibiting the commodities for sale, and
bawling out the different prices offered. We returned, through several
intricate streets, to the Jews' quarters, much fatigued, and worried
with the impertinence and curiosity of the inhabitants.
LETTER VIII.
_Tetuan--The Jews much oppressed there--particularly the
Females--Costume--Singularity of the Streets in the Jewish
Town--Ceuta--Would be invaluable to England--Melilla--Summoned to
visit the Emperor._
Tetuan, ---- 1806.
There is little that is remarkable in this town, beside what I
mentioned in my last. It is distant twenty miles from _Ceuta_, a
Spanish fortress, and twelve from the Mediterranean, and is nearly
opposite to the rock of Gibraltar. It has a good trade, and contains
about eighty thousand inhabitants, twenty thousand of which are Jews,
said to be very rich. The Jews are tolerably civilized in their
manners, but are dreadfully oppressed by the Moors. Seldom a day
passes but some gross outrage or violence is offered to the Jewish
women, the generality of whom are very handsome, though their dress is
by no means calculated to set off, but rather to detract from, their
beauty.
Men, women, and children, still preserve the same costume as in the
time of Moses. You cannot conceive any thing more ridiculous than the
_tout ensemble_ of a Barbary Jewess in full dress. Every part of her
apparel is rich, but is so heavy, that, to an European, nothing can
appear more awkward and unbecoming. The Jewish ladies wear immense
ear-rings. I have observed several full twelve inches in
circumference, and of a proportionate thickness; and a few ornaments
being affixed to the ear-ring, I leave you to judge what materials
their ears must be made of, to bear such a weighty appendage.
The Jewish town is quite distinct from that of the Moors; but the
difference between them is very little: the streets are equally narrow
and dirty, and the houses have no windows on the outside; the roofs
are also quite flat; the only variation is, that the streets are
covered with a roof extending from the houses on each side, and have
the appearance of subterraneous passages. There is a regular
communication between the houses at the top, which is the favourite
scene of recreation. Some of the women scarcely ever take the air,
excepting on these flat roofs: in short, the inhabitants, both Jews
and Moors, dance, sing, and take all their amusements on them. The
rooms of the Jewish houses (as well as of the Moors) are long, narrow,
and lofty, resembling galleries. Most of the houses are occupied by
several families, which are generally large. Those inhabited by the
more opulent are kept tolerably neat, and are adorned with rich and
curious furniture; but they are, for the most part, exceedingly dirty;
and the exhalations from the garlic and oil, which they use in great
quantities in frying their fish, are enough to suffocate a person not
entirely divested of the sense of smelling. Their taste is so
exquisitely refined, in regard to the oil they use, that they prefer
our lamp-oil to any other, on account of its high flavour.
Notwithstanding all these apparent obstacles to health, they contrive
to preserve it admirably well. To an Englishman, their mode of life
would scarcely appear worthy to be called living, but merely
vegetating. Since the last plague, however, in Barbary, which
destroyed a vast number of the Jews, they have not suffered from any
infectious or contagious disorder, and their population has augmented
so prodigiously, that the Emperor must, however reluctantly, extend
the limits of their town. The Jews marry extremely young. It is not
at all unusual to see a married couple, whose united ages do not
exceed twenty-two or twenty-three years.
I cannot quit Tetuan, without giving you some account of _Ceuta_,
which is at so small a distance from it. From its situation, it
perfectly corresponds with the _Exillissa_ of _Ptolemy_, being the
first maritime town to the eastward of the ancient _Tingis_, or modern
Tangiers. It also clearly appears to have been the _Septa_ described
by _Procopius_, who, with many others, derives this name from the
adjacent seven hills. It was a place of great note in the time of the
Vandals. It is now a strong regular fortified town. Ceuta is thirty
miles from Tangiers, and nearly opposite to the entrance of the bay of
Gibraltar. It is nominally still in the hands of the Spaniards; but
it is confidently rumoured, and believed, to have been ceded by treaty
to the French. This important fortress has been, and is still,
occasionally most awfully distressed for want of provisions; insomuch,
that if closely besieged by land, by the Moors, and blocked up by the
English by sea, it could not hold out any considerable time in
possession of the French. The advantages resulting to Great Britain
from such a valuable acquisition are incalculable.
Every person who is acquainted with the situation of Ceuta, the rival
of Gibraltar, must be very much astonished, that it should still be
permitted to remain in the possession of the Spaniards, since a
squadron of men of war, and a flotilla of gun and bomb vessels, might
reduce it, even without the assistance, of the Moors; and thereby
England would be sole mistress of the entrance to the
Mediterranean. Convoys could collect in safety at Ceuta, and our trade
in this sea be comparatively secure from annoyance. I understand this
place was closely invested by Muley Yezid (the late Emperor of
Morocco, and brother to the present Emperor), but for want of proper
co-operation by sea, where it is most vulnerable, he was necessitated
to raise the siege, and withdraw his troops.
This garrison is supplied with provisions from Spain, the Moors being
prohibited, on pain of death, from sending their commodities thither;
and in order that this interdiction may be strictly observed, picquets
and posts of Moorish cavalry and infantry are so judiciously
stationed, that it is impossible for the mountaineers to smuggle in
the smallest article. The supplies from Spain are extremely
precarious, from the necessity of conveying them in small fishing
craft, to prevent their falling into the hands of the English.
_Melilla_ also is in the possession of the Spaniards: this maritime
town lies to the eastward of Tetuan. Many authors assert it to have
been founded by the _Carthaginians_. It is likewise called _Melela_,
from the great quantity of honey annually obtained in its
neighbourhood. It was taken by the Spaniards about the beginning of
the fifteenth century, and has remained under their dominion ever
since. It has a strong castle, built on a rock, named _Gomera_. Along
this coast, particularly from Tetuan to Melilla, there are several
coves, in which the Spanish gunboats, and other small armed vessels,
find shelter in cases of necessity. Indeed _Melilla_ is itself a place
of refuge for those vessels of the enemy fitted out for the annoyance
of our Mediterranean trade.
I shall conclude this with a copy of a letter, which I have just
received from Mr. Ross, the acting Consul-general in the room of the
late Mr. Matra:
"DEAR SIR, _Tangiers_,