CHAPTER X.

From Melbourne to Adelaide.--Capital of South

Australia.--New Gold-Fields.--Agricultural Interests.--City

Institutions.--Inducements to Immigrants.--Public

Buildings.--A City of Churches.--Australian

Ladies.--Interior of the Country.--Irrigation.--German

Settlers.--The Botanical Gardens.--West Australia.--Perth

the Capital.--The Pearl Fisheries.--Commercial Advantages

Considered.

We shall now leave Victoria and take the reader into another colony, by

no means less interesting than those already visited. The distance from

Melbourne to Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, is about the same

as that from Sydney to Melbourne,--say, six hundred miles. Australia is

an immense territory, and its capital cities are a long way apart. The

cars upon this route are constructed upon both the American and English

plan, and one is not annoyed by having to change cars to accommodate a

difference in the gauge, as upon the Sydney route, where for this

purpose he is aroused at midnight on the borders of Victoria. On passing

the limit of South Australia the traveller finds his watch to be

twenty-five minutes too fast, and makes the necessary alteration to

accommodate the local time in accordance with western longitude. It is a

tiresome journey,--or at least we found it so. There were few

first-class passengers, none of whom particularly interested a stranger

beyond general observation; moreover the road passes through what is

called the Ninety-mile Desert, which is desolate and barren indeed. The

miles seemed interminable; and it was a great relief at last when a

wooded country was reached, and there came into view open, well-fenced

fields, with here and there small groups of choice breeds of cattle and

sheep, and an occasional neat homestead.

In the course of this journey the Murray Bridge was crossed. This iron

structure spans the breadth of that great Australian water-way here

known as the Murray River, but which finds its source thousands of miles

to the north, in Queensland, where it is known as the Darling River.

After leaving Murray Bridge two large engines were necessary to draw our

train up the steep incline among the hills and mountains which separate

Adelaide from her eastern territory. These mechanical giants puffed and

panted with an almost human expression, in their vigorous struggle to

drag the train forward,--now and again hovering upon the very verge of

inability, and then, as it seemed to us, by putting forth renewed energy

and extraordinary effort, pressing forward and finally surmounting the

steep way. The aspect of the scenery rapidly changed for the better as

we advanced, and our spirits rose accordingly. Everything looked bright

and thrifty. Gardens, orchards, well-cultivated fields, and pleasant

roadside stations, with the summer residences of the citizens of

Adelaide, were rapidly passed, until Mount Lofty station was reached and

the descent toward the plains began. The traveller was soon gratified by

a bird's-eye view of the capital of South Australia, lying spread out

upon the plain, with the broad sea beyond glittering with mottled

sunshine.

Adelaide is surrounded by an amphitheatre of wooded hills rearing their

heads not far away from the city, and forms a very fine picture when

thus approached. The capital is so perfectly level that to be seen to

advantage it must be looked upon as a whole from some favorable

elevation. Though this colony is called South Australia, it should be

known as Central Australia in respect to its actual geographical

position. It is destined in the near future to merit the name of the

granary of the country, being already largely and successfully devoted

to agriculture. This pursuit is followed in no circumscribed manner, but

in a large and liberal style, like that of our best Western farmers.

Immense tracts of land are also devoted to stock-raising, for the

purpose of furnishing "dead beef" for shipment to England in fresh

condition. South Australia contains nearly a million square miles, and

is therefore ten times larger than Victoria, and fifteen times the size

of England. It extends northward from the temperate zone, so that nearly

one half of its area lies within the tropics, while it has a coast-line

of five hundred miles along the great Southern Ocean. A vast portion of

its interior is uninhabited and indeed unexplored. The total population

of the whole colony is about four hundred thousand. Wheat, wool, wine,

copper, and meat are at present the chief exports.

Though gold has been found in this province to a very large extent, it

is not so abundant here as in other parts of Australia,--and yet since

these notes were begun new gold-fields have been discovered in this

section which are reported to be exceedingly rich. Statistics show that

somewhat over seventeen million pounds sterling in gold have been

exported from South Australia since its first discovery here. One mine

alone, known as the Moonta, has paid its shareholders in dividends the

large sum of twelve hundred thousand pounds sterling. Gold-digging as a

business, however, grows less and less attractive in the colony, though

the precious metal must continue to be produced here for many years to

come, by well-organized companies who possess ample machinery for

raising and crushing the quartz rock. But good wages, equalling the

average earned by miners, are now paid here by a dozen easier and more

legitimate occupations,--among the rest the large vineyards which

produced last year over three million gallons of pure native wine. The

great trouble is to procure laborers at all, notwithstanding the liberal

scale of wages paid. No community or section of country has ever yet

reached a permanent success, according to the usually accepted idea of

success, upon what may in this connection be denominated a gold basis.

"Let us cherish no delusions," said a San Francisco preacher on a

certain occasion; "no society has ever been able to organize itself in a

satisfactory manner on gold-bearing soil. Even Nature herself is

deceitful: she corrupts, seduces, and betrays man; she laughs at his

labors, she turns his toil into gambling and his word into a lie!" The

preacher's deductions have proved true in California, South Africa, New

Zealand, and Australia. And yet we have freely admitted in these pages

that the finding of gold mines has stimulated labor, immigration, and

manly activity in many directions, and has thus indirectly been the

agent of good in other than its own field.

As we find gold king in Victoria, so in Adelaide we have pastoral

millionnaires. Some of the men who have become enriched by this means

possess fortunes of over two million pounds sterling, and have gone back

to England to enjoy their wealth in their native land; others, and these

are the larger portion of the successful settlers, still remain here,

promoting the local interests of the colony.

Adelaide, thus named for the queen of William IV., we found to be the

depot of a large and growing trade in wool and grain especially derived

from the fertile agricultural district of which it is the capital, and

is furnished with numerous arterial railways to bring these products to

market. We were told by reliable parties here that there are at present

about four million acres of land under the plough. Preference is

universally given to the grain produced in this colony, because of its

uniform excellence. New South Wales and Victoria hamper their people in

the use of this grain by the imposition of most unreasonable and

aggravating tariff laws. "Protection," said an earnest citizen of

Melbourne to us, "does anything but protect; it makes much of our food

cost us twenty per cent more than it would naturally if the ordinary

laws of trade were permitted to adjust themselves." The mass of the

people favor free-trade, but the leaders and the officials favor high

tariff, for they realize a living through the collecting of dues that

arise under its provisions. It was admitted to the author by local

political economists that it costs fifty per cent of the aggregate sum

collected to keep "the machine" moving,--a fact which alone forms a

strong argument against the entire system.

Adelaide, with a population of a hundred and fifty thousand, has a noble

University, quite equal in standing to that of any city in the country.

When we remember how youthful she is, it becomes a matter of no small

surprise that Adelaide has achieved such a condition of progress in all

the appointments and possessions which go to make up a great city of

modern times. This remark will apply indeed to all the Australian

capitals, none of which are deficient in hospitals, libraries, schools,

asylums, art galleries, and charitable institutions generally. Few of

the European cities of twice the size of these in Australia can boast a

more complete outfit in all that goes to promote a true civilization. We

must not forget, however, that a city established in the nineteenth

century has a lamp to guide its feet in the experience of all who have

gone before,--thus enabling it to start upon a wise and proper basis

from the very outset.

Though South Australia presents little of the glamour of auriferous

fields to attract new settlers, those who come here are as a rule of the

best class. This colony offers officially the most liberal inducements

to new-comers, while the natural advantages of its agricultural and

stock-raising districts are unsurpassed in either of the other colonies.

A land-order is given gratuitously to every qualified person upon his

arrival at Adelaide, which is good for one hundred dollars for each

adult, and fifty dollars for each child, at the Government Land Office;

besides which other liberal inducements are offered that are calculated

to interest representatives especially of the agricultural class of

Great Britain.

King William Street is a broad and elegant thoroughfare, the principal

one of the city. It is lined on either side with grand palatial

buildings,--banks, insurance offices, warehouses, shops, and hotels. On

this street also are the Post-Office and the Town Hall. One looks about

at the solid and pleasing architectural effect of all these buildings

with no small degree of surprise. Everywhere within the limits of the

city, especially extending eastward and westward of the Post-Office,

spacious edifices are to be found, either completed and occupied or in

course of construction. The material used for building purposes

consists very largely of a handsome white stone, which produces a

remarkably cheerful general effect. By ascending North Adelaide Hill one

gets an admirable view of all the space between Mount Lofty and the city

proper, which space is dotted with villas, gardens, and pleasant

domestic surroundings, and profusely ornamented with trees. There is an

aspect of thrift and business prosperity in the very atmosphere; civic

and suburban improvement is the order of the day. The churches of all

denominations are numerous and handsome. Comparisons may be odious, and

especially so as regards different portions of these colonies, between

which there is rampant a spirit of exaggerated and endless jealousy; but

we cannot refrain from saying that to the casual observer Adelaide

manifests greater evidences of enterprise and rapid growth than either

Sydney, Melbourne, or Brisbane. The citizens are especially alive to all

educational interests. There is here a Minister of Education, a Training

and Model School, three Colleges, and an ample number of common and

primary schools. The South Australian Institute and Museum is designed

for the promotion of art studies, science, and philosophy.

King William Street is nearly two miles long, certainly rivalling in

many respects Collins Street in Melbourne, and is more elegant and

effective as a whole than George Street in Sydney. Some enterprising

parties should introduce a few hundred Hansom cabs into the city, to

take the place of the hideous four-wheeled vehicles which are drawn

about town by two horses. Victoria Square, situated in the very heart of

Adelaide, is a busy quarter, where at a single glance one has a view of

the principal public buildings, including the Town Hall, a noble

structure, the colonnade of which is built over the surrounding

foot-way. Opposite this building is the General Post-Office, the main

features of which are like the Post-Office of Sydney,--a tall square

tower rising from the centre, which seemed in both instances quite out

of place. The city is remarkable for the compactness of its business

centre. Queen Street runs from bank to bank of the river, so that the

masts of the shipping are visible from either end of the thoroughfare.

The city proper is separated from its suburbs by a wide belt of park

lands, and all the approaches are lined with thrifty ornamental trees.

Great liberality and good judgment presided over the laying out of

Adelaide. All the streets are broad and regular, running north and

south, east and west. There are no mysterious labyrinths, dark lanes, or

blind alleys in the city; all the avenues cross each other at right

angles and are uniform in width. Somehow we missed the irregular ways of

old European cities and those of the far East, where one can get

delightfully lost and bewildered now and then.

Adelaide has been called the city of churches, and as already intimated

it certainly is well supplied in that respect; but it is still better

entitled to be called the city of public parks.

There was a grand Industrial Exhibition open at Adelaide during our

visit, to which all the sister colonies had contributed; and hosts of

strangers were consequently attracted to the town, imparting a business

aspect to everything and a general life to its streets which doubtless

was not its normal condition. Still, be this as it may, the capital of

South Australia is growing steadily in population and material wealth.

The present Exhibition Building stands in the Adelaide Park lands,

fronting North Terrace, adjacent to the Botanical Gardens. A direct line

of railway, seven miles long, connects the Exhibition with the wharves

at Port Adelaide, where ships of the largest tonnage can lie at the pier

and discharge their cargoes. The completeness, thorough organization,

and amazing variety of this Exhibition of Industries here in the South

Seas was a subject of great surprise and admiration to us. It is not,

however, our intention to go into a description of the Exhibition, but

it was certainly worthy of all commendation.

The Australian ladies of this section are essentially unlike their

sisterhood of the colonies in general. They are characterized by a

bright, buoyant, piquant manner which charms and captivates the stranger

who is so fortunate as to enjoy their proverbial hospitality. Without

being in the least flippant, they are debonair and winsome in the

display of their many accomplishments, which always embrace music,

drawing, and dancing. They are more like the women of America in height

and general figure than their English progenitors. They have none of the

English stoutness which indicates a plethora of blood and vigor; indeed,

there was a marked delicacy generally apparent in the matter of health,

which is to be attributed doubtless to climatic influences,--and yet

statistics show a low scale of mortality in Adelaide, as in most parts

of Australia. Regarding amusements, dancing is a favorite one, quite as

much so here as among the ladies of Spain. Among gentlemen belonging to

what is termed the best society in Adelaide, it is a fact worth

remarking that one finds no idlers; all have some legitimate calling,

and would evidently feel ill at ease without it. Idling is not popular;

each citizen is expected to contribute in some form to the general

condition of thrift and progress, as well as to do his share toward

developing the natural resources of the State. This is imperative in a

youthful colony, and not out of place in any community.

It is believed that the interior of the continent, which is largely

embraced within the territory of South Australia, was at a comparatively

recent period covered by a great inland ocean. Here are found the

mammoth bones of animals of the marsupial species, now extinct, which

have afforded much interest to scientists. On some portions of these

plains it is said that the heat absorbed from the sun in the daytime is

radiated from the soil at night to such a degree as to be insufferable

to human beings. The soil is represented to be at such times like

burning coal; and when the air moves over it, an effect is produced as

from a furnace, or from a sirocco blowing off the coast of Africa. The

effect of these winds is occasionally felt in Sydney and Melbourne; and

while it lasts, humanity becomes inert, and exertion impossible. It

rarely continues, however, more than three days, and in the vicinity of

Adelaide is seldom experienced more than twice in a season.

Several lakes are represented to exist in the interior, as shown by maps

of Australia,--among them Lake Torrens, Lake Eyre, Lake Gardiner, and

Lake Amadeus, apparently covering large areas; but these localities are

little more than muddy swamps or salt marshes, which are completely

dried up in summer. Their level is believed to be considerably below

that of the sea; and it has been proposed to cut a canal from Torrens to

Spencer Gulf: if that proved advantageous, then Lake Eyre could be

connected with comparatively little labor. Spencer Gulf is the deepest

indentation upon the south coast, and would flood these swamps with

permanent water, rendering them not only navigable, but producing a

favorable change in the climate. At present, during the summer season

the thermometer rises in the lake region to 110 deg. and even to 115 deg.

Fahrenheit.

This district is regarded as a desert waste because of its want of a

permanent supply of water, being "eaten up," to use a local phrase, with

drought. And yet this want of water at certain seasons while there is

an abundance at others is a matter so obviously within the ability of

the people to remedy, that one cannot sympathize much with them in their

present deprivation. Why the intelligent means of irrigation so well

known and so thoroughly tested elsewhere are not adopted here, it is

difficult to understand. We heartily agree with the position assumed in

regard to this matter by a certain English Bishop, of whom we were told.

He came to Australia to make it his home; and being applied to in a dry

season to issue a circular-prayer for rain, he answered that a fair

average quantity of water fell upon the land already, and that he

declined to petition the Almighty to work a miracle until the colonists

had themselves done what they could to preserve the rains by

constructing proper reservoirs and sinking artesian wells. These people

must not expect that Hercules will help them, unless they first put

their own shoulders to the wheel.

The river Darling shows well upon paper, and judged by its aspect on the

map it is a river which might rank with the Volga and the Amazon. But

the truth is that it forms a watercourse dependent at present upon

floods, admitting of navigation for hundreds of miles at certain

seasons, and at others being as dry as the Arno at Florence or the

Manzanares at Madrid. By a series of dams and canals this river might be

navigable all the year round. The same remark applies to several of its

tributaries, and to rivers generally running toward the inland centres

and flowing into the Murray. The governments of the several colonies

have long realized the importance and the necessity of a grand and

comprehensive system of irrigation. They seem to be never tired of

talking about the matter; but the time has now come for action. Some of

the most enterprising of the pioneers as they have advanced inland have

built dams on the small tributaries of the two rivers named, and have

found it to pay them tenfold. Some have sunk artesian wells, and have in

their turn reaped commensurate advantages. We were shown great reaches

of country where ten years ago cattle would have starved had they been

turned out to find a living there, but which now support large herds of

domestic animals.

Africa's interior is scarcely less mapped out and explored than Central

Australia. There are thousands of square miles upon which the foot of a

white man has never trod. Tartary has its steppes, America its prairies,

Egypt its deserts, and Australia its "scrub." The plains so called are

covered by a low-growing bush, compact and almost impenetrable in

places, composed of a dwarf eucalyptus. The appearance of a large reach

of this scrub is desolate indeed, the underlying soil being a sort of

yellow sand which one would think could surely produce nothing else. We

were told of one large section of South Australia ten thousand miles

square, which is solely covered with this scrub. "Yet," said our

informant, himself an agriculturist of experience and a large

landholder, "experiment has shown that if a watercourse were turned upon

this ground and the scrub cleared away, it would give us a soil nearly

as fertile as the valley of the Nile." And he added: "After a year or

two more of useless talk, irrigation will be applied in all directions."

The climate of Adelaide and the surrounding country is of much greater

warmth than that of the region about Brisbane, Sydney, or Melbourne. It

is not uncommon for the thermometer to register 100 deg. in the shade

during the summer months. The vegetable products are almost identical with

those of South Africa, and the soil is equally productive, yielding crop

after crop with no signs of exhaustion. The food of the common people is

cheap, abundant, and good. Mutton and beef do not cost one tenth as much

as is charged for them in England or America, while bread is but four

cents per pound. The flour produced here we were told won prizes

wherever it was exhibited, and was considered as ranking with the very

best manufactured anywhere. All kinds of vegetables are also cheap, and

thanks to the Chinamen they are also in good supply: no one but John

pretends to raise them. Everybody eats meat three times a day, rich and

poor; but of the cooking,--well, as we cannot say anything complimentary

about it, we will not dilate upon this theme.

The large number of German residents in and about Adelaide is

particularly observable, and whole villages were found to exist in South

Australia where German was the one language spoken. This people form

the best class of settlers, for they come hither with a well-considered

purpose, almost always in the direction of agricultural enterprise; and

this they pursue undeviatingly. Many of them are from the Rhine

districts of Germany, and interest themselves in the planting and

culture of the grape and in winemaking, having brought with them a

special and valuable experience obtained in their native land.

The large, well-kept parks which surround this capital of South

Australia form a magnificent drive, eight or ten miles long, outside of

which are the villas and pleasant flower-gardens of the citizens, where

one sees tropical fruits growing in great abundance,--including the

orange, lemon, citron, pineapple, and the like. Some of the floral

displays were truly gorgeous, embracing the flaring warratah and the

glowing banksias, decked with curious and lovely foliage. Here and there

were to be seen the Norfolk Island Pine, of which one never tires, and

which is a great favorite all over this country. It branches straight

out from the trunk with a succession of hard prickly leaves inclining

upward at the ends. Its color is always of the deepest green.

The Botanical Gardens of Adelaide cover a hundred and thirty acres, the

hedges of which are formed of a picturesque variety of yellow cactus,

acacias, magnolias, and myrtles. Here we first saw the Australian

bottle-tree, which is native only to these colonies. It receives its

name from its resemblance in shape to a junk-bottle. This tree has the

property of storing up water in its hollow trunk,--a well-known fact,

which has often proved a providential supply for thirsty travellers in a

country so subject to drought. Here also was seen the correa, with its

stiff stem and prickly leaves, bearing a curious string of little

delicate pendulous flowers, red, orange, and white, not unlike the

fuchsia in form. The South Sea myrtle was especially attractive,

appearing in flower with round clustering bunches, spangled with white

stars. The styphelia, a heath-like plant, was a surprise to us, with its

green flower, the first of its species the author had seen. We were

shown a specimen of the sandrach-tree from Africa, which is almost

imperishable, and from which the ceilings of mosques are exclusively

made; it is supposed to be the shittim-wood of Scripture. The Indian

cotton-tree loomed up beside the South American aloe, this last with its

bayonet-like leaves, ornamented in wavy lines like the surface of a

Toledo blade. The groupings of these exotics, natives of regions so far

apart upon the earth's surface, yet quite domesticated and acclimated

here, formed an incongruous picture and an interesting theme for

contemplation.

West Australia, of which Perth is the capital, is eight hundred miles in

width and thirteen hundred long from north to south, actually covering

about one third of the continent. It embraces all that portion lying to

the westward of the one hundred and twenty-ninth meridian of east

longitude, having an area of about one million square miles,--or, to

make a familiar comparison, it is eight times as large as the United

Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland. It has but few towns, ports, or

settled districts, and Perth itself has less than eleven thousand

inhabitants. The city is represented to be an attractive place,

possessing a fine climate. Its oranges and tropical fruits generally are

said to be excellent. It is situated on the Swan River, better known

locally as Perth Waters. This river runs from Fremantle to Perth, and is

a noble water-way, commercially spoiled however by a dangerous ledge of

rocks about six feet under water, which shuts off the entrance from the

sea. Of course, in due time dynamite will settle the business for that

ledge.

The population of the entire colony known as West Australia is at the

present writing hardly forty thousand, scattered along the seaboard or

within a hundred miles of it. The results accomplished by this small

number of inhabitants show very clearly of what the country is capable,

and indicate what it would doubtless yield under more generous

cultivation. The colony exported last year over a million dollars' worth

of wool, besides copper, sandal-wood, timber, cattle, and so on. Late

statistics show that there are over two millions of sheep in this

section of the country, and we were told that it could support as many

more as are found in Queensland and New South Wales united.

Pearl-oysters abound on the coast of West Australia, and pearl-shells

are a ready source of income to the people, being exported in large

quantities. These are most freely procured at the north. There are

merchants in Sydney who annually fit out boats of from six to ten tons

each, and send them to this locality for the pearl-oyster fishing. This

is best prosecuted nearest to Torres Strait, which separates Australia

from New Guinea. Next to the great island-continent itself, New Guinea

is the largest island in the world, being three hundred and sixty miles

wide by thirteen hundred miles in length; but while Australia as a whole

is so remarkably healthy, not even the African Gold Coast is so

dangerous to health as New Guinea. Its flat, densely-wooded, swampy

coast is simply deadly to white men, and even the natives suffer

constantly from low fever. These natives are probably the most barbaric

of any savages living in this nineteenth century; they have no notion of

even the rudest agricultural operations, living altogether on fish,

berries, and roots.

The pearl-fisheries of which we were speaking give employment to a

singular class of laborers, consisting of Malays, Lascars, South Sea

Islanders, Australian aborigines, runaway sailors, and West Indian

negroes. Formerly the oysters were raised from four or five fathoms'

depth solely by divers, but dredging has lately been adopted with good

success. The pearl-oyster is a large mollusk, the shell weighing

sometimes as much as eight pounds. The divers are paid fair wages, and

whatever pearls they find become their perquisites, it being the shells

alone that the employer seeks to secure. These, when properly dried and

cleansed, he ships to Europe, where they bring an average of five

hundred dollars per ton. When diving is depended upon for raising the

oysters, a boat is very fully equipped, and the captain, who is the

diver, descends in a full set of armor. Air-pumps supply the necessary

atmosphere to enable him to remain for half an hour and more under

water, during which time he fills the canvas bags which are sent down to

him empty and drawn up by those remaining in the boat. Considerable

capital is embarked in this business. One enemy the divers have to look

out for is the shark. These dreadful creatures do not swarm on the coast

of West Australia, but are nevertheless sometimes seen there; and when

that is the case the diver signals his crew to draw him to the surface,

for though he is armed with a long knife, he could hardly cope with

these ravenous monsters in their own element.

The coast-line of the colony is set down as being three thousand miles

in length on the Indian Ocean, and some hundreds upon the Southern

Ocean. The country is known to be auriferous, but to what extent it is

impossible to say. There are two or three hundred miles of railroad here

belonging to the Government, and more is under contract to be built in

this year of 1888, covering short routes between comparatively populous

points. Immigration is encouraged by liberal appropriations, and the

population is increasing steadily if not rapidly. The late discovery of

gold-fields at the Kimberly district on the Fitzroy River has already

turned public attention thither, and settlers and adventurers are sure

to follow fast. Government survey has shown that on the territory

traversed by the Mary, Margaret, Elvira, and Ord rivers an immense

number of gold-bearing quartz-reefs exist, besides surface diggings

along the river courses and valley from which "good color," as miners

express it, can be got from the sand almost anywhere. Already diggers

have gone to work successfully in this region, where it seems the

country is well-watered most of the year, and where the Government

surveyors say there is no trouble in storing water against possible

drought. All these facts simply signify that Perth, the western capital

of the colonies, is in the near future to go through the same experience

as have Melbourne, Adelaide, Ballarat, and Brisbane, and that she is

sure by and by to become like them a great and prosperous city. What is

called a "rush" in the colonies has not yet taken place in the Kimberly

district, but there is a steady trend of gold-miners thither, and one or

two extraordinary "finds" would draw to this part of the country as

eager a throng as ever swarmed in New South Wales or Victoria bent upon

the same errand.

Were we to write more in detail of West Australia it would be simply

from what we learned through intelligent persons at Melbourne, Sydney,

and Adelaide. We did not visit Perth. A glance at the map will show the

reader how great are the distances between the capitals of Australia,

over which we traversed hither and thither three thousand miles and

more. From Adelaide to Perth, overland, would be a distance of fifteen

hundred miles, which would require to be accomplished mostly on

horseback. By water across the Australian Bight and Indian Ocean, it

would be a voyage of about the same length.

The climate of West Australia was represented to us as being extremely

fine; and one great pride of the people there is the variety and

abundance of the wild-flowers which cover hill and dale near the

coast-line of the entire colony. The pearl-fisheries to which we have

alluded produce some of the most valuable gems that find their way to

the markets of the world; for though by general consent the choicest

pearls come from Ceylon and the Persian Gulf, those found on the west

coast of Australia are deemed by many equal to the best. Beautiful

specimens were shown to us in Melbourne which we could not recognize as

in any way inferior to the Oriental gems that bring such fabulous prices

in Paris and London. In a jeweller's shop on Collins Street we saw

several which had come from the region near Torres Strait, and which

were valued at a hundred pounds sterling each, and one which on account

of its size was prized at two hundred pounds, it having already been

sold for that sum.

On preparing to leave Australia proper, some facts were noted as deduced

from careful observation and diligent inquiry. It seems that this

country can command the markets of the world in three articles at

least,--wool, meat, and wine. For producing these she has the advantages

of breadth of territory, of climate, and of general adaptation beyond

those of any other land. At the present writing it would be safe to add

gold to the other three staples, since Australia, in combination with

Tasmania and New Zealand, is producing more of it annually than any

other country in the world. In competition with the United States in the

home market,--that is, in England,--Australia is handicapped by some

eight thousand miles of distance, and must therefore count just so much

relative additional cost of transportation. But Australia can produce

two of the special articles named,--meat and wool,--at least ten per

cent cheaper than our own country. As regards cereals, Australia is

capable of raising at present double the amount of grain which she can

consume. In that staple, however, the United States and some other

countries can compete with her for reasons which favor them, independent

of the additional distance she must overcome to reach a market.

Under the Southern Cross Or Travels in Australia, Tasmania, New Zealand, Samoa, and Other Pacific Islands · 第 10 / 17 章