A Melbourne Half-Holiday.--Inconsistency of
Laborers.--Vice-Royal Residence.--Special Gold-Fields of
Victoria.--Ballarat.--Great Depths in Mines.--Agricultural
Interests.--Sandhurst.--The Giant Trees of Australia.--The
Kangaroo.--In Victorian Forests.--Peculiar Salt Lakes.--The
Bower-bird's Retreat.--The Wild Dog.--Desirable and
Undesirable Emigrants.--No Place for the Intemperate.
Saturday afternoon is made a weekly carnival in Melbourne, though it
does not by any means assume so picturesque an aspect as in Honolulu.
Here the shops are all closed soon after mid-day, work of every sort
ceases, and amusements promptly begin, being kept up vigorously until
after midnight. The parks and pleasure-grounds are crowded with
foot-ball, baseball, and cricket players, as well as by groups devoted
to other games. In the evening the theatres and public exhibitions are
all insufficient to accommodate the throngs that attend them, though
there are five regular places in the city where dramatic entertainments
are given. The bar-rooms reap a golden harvest, and are especially
patronized, while a general spirit of license prevails among all
classes. The streets are crowded by a careless, not to say reckless,
throng of men, women, and boys, very many of whom were observed to be
decidedly the worse for liquor. Burke Street, Elizabeth Street, and even
Collins Street, which represent the best portion of the town, are
tinctured for the time being with a spirit of rowdyism. Indeed, a
general latitude of behavior appears to be condoned on this Saturday
half-holiday, as it is with us to a certain extent on the Fourth of
July. The workmen of Melbourne who have received ten hours' pay for
eight hours' work also claim this gratuity of time on the sixth day, and
by their use of it not only cheapen their labor, but impair both their
health and their fortune. We could not but conclude on the whole that
the Saturday half-holiday as employed by the masses of Melbourne was a
weekly error, and that the class which most imperiously demand this
release from occupation is unfortunately composed of those who most
grossly abuse the privilege.
On Sunday few people were to be seen in the streets and fewer still in
the churches, leading one to divine that the day was generally devoted
to necessary recuperation after the gross excesses of Saturday. It was
noticed that the bar-rooms were ostensibly closed on the Sabbath. This
the local law requires, but there are always ways and means whereby the
thirsty tippler gets his fill.
The laborers who place themselves under the control of some organized
Union are in fact its slaves, the victims of designing theorists and
cunning managers, who are themselves drones in the human hive. The
ordinary workman does not think for himself; he does not realize that
the less he gives for his day's wages the dearer must become those
articles that are dependent upon labor. If the abbreviated time of
eight hours per day for five days of the week, and four hours on
Saturday, constitute a week's work, the laborer has more to pay for all
of the necessities of life than he would have were full hours and a fair
equivalent given for the wages he receives. It costs more to build
houses in the former instance; therefore his rent must be increased. He
must pay more for his food and clothing. An honest day's work is the
true criterion of value; and so far as that is curtailed just so much
more must it cost for family support, and just so much poorer shall we
all be, both capitalist and laborer.
One sees no special signs of poverty in the streets of Melbourne, as we
have already intimated; but there may be, and to a certain extent we
know that there is, squalor existing, though it does not make itself
visible in the public thoroughfares. There are "back slums" that do not
by their appearance invite one to penetrate them, and which would best
be avoided at night; but these are the concomitants of all large and
promiscuous gatherings of humanity. Though the city is well situated for
drainage, there seems to be at present only a very defective mode
adopted, mostly dependent upon surface flow to clear the daily
accumulation of debris. We were told, however, that this objection was
fast being remedied, and that there already exists a partial system of
drainage which has been applied to the most important sections of the
town.
The heavy clouds of fuliginous coal-smoke which envelop Melbourne are
caused by the steam-launches, ferry-boats, coasting and ocean-going
steamers, and manufactories, all which create their motive-power with
Sydney bituminous coal,--a good steam-producing article, but which
covers everything in its neighborhood with a fine black dust, the
formidable enemy of clean faces and white linen. The smoke and dust
nevertheless are significant of life and energy. They indicate that
business is active, that the channels of trade are not blocked; and
therefore they are cheerfully submitted to. "Dirt," said a certain
shrewd philosopher, "is not dirt; it is something in the wrong place."
The finest site near the city has been selected for the residence of
Vice-royalty; so that quite a prominent feature of the suburbs is the
Government House, which is situated about a mile from the city proper,
and is an imposing but ugly-looking building. It has a central tower
twenty-five feet square more or less, and of considerable height. It is
pleasanter to say a good word concerning any object than a harsh one;
but the Government House in Melbourne is irredeemable ugly, though it
must have cost a mint of money. This immense edifice is only half
improved on the inside, being large enough for a European royal
residence requiring accommodations for a large number of retainers; the
Governor of Victoria, however, finds it necessary to count the cost as
regards his manner of living, since his official salary is by no means
sufficient to keep up a royal court. The ball-room of this residence is
somewhat famous for its size and general appointments, being of such
proportions as would easily accommodate a marching regiment under arms.
It is however on certain occasions thrown open and lighted throughout
for its original purpose. The public park which joins the grounds of the
Government House is beautiful indeed, being a botanical garden in
itself, and the one redeeming feature of the establishment.
Victoria is the special gold-field of Australia, and has produced two
thirds of all the precious metal which statistics credit to the country
at large. One of the localities which has proved to be most prolific in
gold is Ballarat, now a charming and populous city, and next to
Melbourne in importance. It lies nearly a hundred miles north of the
capital, at an elevation of some fifteen hundred feet above sea-level,
and is accessible by rail. This is thought to be the centre of one of
the richest gold-producing districts in the world. Beechworth, one
hundred and seventy miles northeast of Melbourne, at a higher elevation
than Ballarat, is nearly as populous and well-nigh as prolific in the
precious metal. The diggings of Maryborough district, situated a hundred
and fifty miles northwest of Melbourne, are also of great extent and
quite famous. There are over eight thousand miners at work here.
Castlemain, some seventy-five miles north of the capital, has proved to
be very profitable in its yield of gold. Nearly forty square miles of
auriferous lands are being worked by Europeans and Chinese in the
district of Ararat, about a hundred and fifty miles from Melbourne,
northward. From these several sources of mineral wealth there flows
constantly toward the capital a stream of riches, making it the greatest
gold-producing locality on the globe. There are about fifty thousand
people in all engaged at gold-mining in the several parts of Victoria,
at least ten thousand of whom are Chinese. The latter operate almost
entirely in the alluvial workings, while the Europeans are occupied
almost wholly in quartz-crushing. Some of the shafts sunk for procuring
paying quartz are over two thousand feet in depth. The Stawell mine is,
to be exact, two thousand four hundred and twelve feet below the surface
of the ground, from which depth is brought up stone yielding over four
ounces of gold to the ton. We have by no means exhausted the list of
noted diggings in this region, but have only mentioned a few of them,
such as came most readily to mind; moreover, new deposits of recognized
value are being discovered every few months. Still, we repeat here that
reliable figures show that in the aggregate the corn and wool of
Victoria alone are of more monetary value than is the result from all
the alluvial and quartz-yielding mines within her entire borders.
Three days from Melbourne will suffice for visiting the interesting and
handsome city of Ballarat. It is now a place containing over fifty
thousand inhabitants, owing its existence entirely to the finding of
gold on the spot which it occupies; indeed, it has not inappropriately
been called the city of Midas. Where thirty years ago the land was
covered with miners' tents and log-huts, an arid and treeless expanse
lying between two low hills, there is now a fine modern city. It is a
metropolis with broad boulevards, substantial stone buildings, massive
warehouses, sumptuous residences, elegant official structures, and good
schools, supplemented by many philanthropic and religious institutions.
The environs of Ballarat are also beautified, having many choice trees
planted all about them, especially California pines, which are great
favorites here and multiplying continually. Trees grow in this climate
with such rapidity as to encourage their planting. They are particularly
desirable here, where the surroundings were redeemed from such original
crudeness, as they impart a certain grace and home-like appearance to
otherwise desolate places.
A glimpse only may be had of Ballarat in the time we have named, but let
no one who comes hither neglect the Public Garden, which the reader of
these notes has by this time learned is one of the prime necessities of
each of these colonial capitals. The wealthy citizens of Ballarat have
expended freely of their gold upon this delightful park, which, if it
does not rival in some particulars those of Sydney and Melbourne,
certainly comes quite up to them in general excellence and beauty. There
is plenty of water to be had in the city for irrigating and all other
purposes, an artificial lake having been created in the hills not far
away, whence pipes bring the water to every one's door. This reservoir
is of admirable workmanship, and of inestimable value to the town. The
pleasant streets are rendered shady and attractive by long lines of
bordering trees. The mining here is carried on in the environs, not in
"every man's back yard," as is said to be the case at Sandhurst, another
famous mining point of which we shall speak further on. All the ground
upon which Ballarat is built, however, has been faithfully and
profitably dug over and passed through the sieve or over the
amalgamating tables. Surface mining is no longer prosecuted here to any
extent. These deposits are naturally the first to fail in
productiveness, but the neighboring hills are formed of a gold-bearing
quartz which is being crushed, night and day, by hundreds of powerful
machines; and the works still pay ten thousand miners fair day-wages,
besides giving the organized companies who employ them satisfactory
dividends. Thus mining has been largely robbed of its adventurous
character in this neighborhood, and perhaps also of most of its alluring
charm, having become a sort of regular industry, like coal-mining, or
even brick-making.
Ballarat being situated on elevated ground, the air here is particularly
bracing and healthful, so that Melbourne physicians sometimes send
invalids hither. It is plainly the centre of a former volcanic region,
and in many places near at hand extinct volcanoes can be counted by the
score,--some filled up to their summits with the debris of ages, some
forming deep depressions, and some filled with small lakes of bitter
water. There is plain evidence of these volcanic cones and craters
having discharged basalt, lava, scoria, cinders, and the like within a
comparatively modern period. The natives who were found in this region
had legends of eruptions having taken place hereabout, but as to how
long ago they could give no idea, having no means of measuring periods
of time.
Although gold-mining, as we have said, is a prominent feature of the
general industry of Ballarat, the prevailing business of this immediate
district is farming. It is now a great agricultural centre as well as a
gold-producing one, and this legitimate pursuit is becoming daily of
more and more importance,--thus once more demonstrating that even in
Eldorado gold-mining is a means to an end, not the grand object itself.
We were told that the great wheat-fields in this district have been
ploughed, planted, and reaped for fifteen consecutive years, without the
least thought on the part of the occupants of using any fertilizer.
To-day these fields yield as uniformly as at first, and seem
inexhaustible in their fertility.
Five million pounds sterling in gold is annually produced in Victoria;
yet it is perfectly well known that the cost of its production, in labor
and money, amounts to about the same sum. The original cost of the
mines, the expense incurred for machinery, the daily wages of the
thousands of miners, and the interest upon the capital invested, are
each factors in the calculation, not forgetting that there are frequent
expensive exigencies sure to occur. For instance, we were told of an
accident which happened in a Victoria mine just previous to our visit,
resulting in the loss of the lives of eight miners. Owing to a defective
metallic rope, a "lift" containing eight men suddenly fell while
ascending a shaft, killing instantly every one of its occupants. The
court held that the company was responsible for the lives of these men,
because it permitted its agent to use a defective rope. The agent
promptly settled with the representatives of the unfortunate men at a
thousand pounds for each life, making an aggregate sum of forty-five
thousand dollars; and it cost another thousand pounds to repair the
injured machinery of the mine.
The author looked somewhat carefully into the subject of gold-mining
with the desire to arrive at a correct conclusion concerning it, and was
fortunate in meeting intelligent men who were ready to impart their
experience in this field of enterprise,--among them being some who had
been personally interested in all departments of mining for many years.
At the risk of some repetition, we would here say that gold-mining has
profited most those who have never engaged in it; that the cool-headed
traders, brokers, bankers, and agriculturalists have reaped the real
benefit growing out of the gold discoveries in Australia, not the eager,
hard-working, excited digger himself. In short, we believe that the same
amount of patient labor and steady application bestowed upon almost any
other industry would yield a better return to the toiler.
We have spoken incidentally of Sandhurst, one of the famous gold-fields
of Victoria, which was originally known by the name of Bendigo. This
place, situated a hundred miles from Ballarat, more directly inland, has
matured into an attractive and important city, well laid out into broad
streets lined with ornamental trees, and containing many fine public and
private edifices. Sandhurst possesses all the elements that go to form a
progressive and intelligent community, having ample school facilities,
churches, hotels, and charitable organizations. The population is an
increasing one, and already numbers some thirty-five thousand. Its array
of well-furnished shops affords a bright and attractive feature. The
environs, unlike those of Ballarat, are rough and uncared-for,
presenting many acres of deserted diggings, with deep holes, broken
windlasses, ruined quartz-tubs, rusted and useless pieces of machinery,
and a profusion of other mining debris. Alluvial or surface mining is
entirely worked out in the vicinity of Sandhurst, but quartz raising and
crushing still gives employment to thousands of laborers; and as there
seems to be a comparatively unlimited supply of the gold-bearing rock,
we can see no reason why the place should not go on prosperously for any
length of time to come. There are here some of the most extensive works
for reducing the quartz-rock that have ever been erected. The principal
mine of the neighborhood has reached a depth of twenty-six hundred
feet, fresh reefs of rich quartz having lately been struck and
developed, concerning the existence of which there were no signs
whatever at the surface of the land. We were told that a true reef had
never been exhausted, or worked out in Australia, though alluvial
deposits often cease to yield in a few months. The deep mine of which we
have just spoken is the property of a wealthy Englishman named George
Lansell, a noted gold-miner of Victoria.
About five miles from Sandhurst is the town of Eaglehawk, perched upon
an eminence, having its own municipal government, and even aspiring to
be a rival of Sandhurst; but it is really at present scarcely more than
a suburb of that city. At Eaglehawk there are some exceptionally rich
gold mines, where quartz is raised which we were told yields from four
to five ounces of pure metal to the ton of rock handled. There are
shafts here varying from five hundred to one thousand feet in depth,
with the usual drifts and galleries. The depth of the shafts is being
steadily increased, and new lateral workings started. The depth to which
these mines in Victoria and elsewhere in Australia may be profitably
worked is not yet demonstrated, though geologists until within a brief
period have confidently asserted that beyond one hundred feet the quartz
rock would not be found sufficiently rich to pay for the labor of
raising it to the surface and crushing it. Theory and fact, however,
have come into collision upon this point, as demonstrated both in
California and Australia. The laws which govern these deposits are not
understood, and the best-informed often find themselves at fault in
their calculations. The mines do not invariably grow richer as they
descend, but vary near the surface. "Twenty-five years of mining
experience," said a Victorian to us, "have taught me that no one knows
at what depth quartz lodes or reefs will be found to pay, and there is
nothing to show that the quality or quantity of the yield of metal
depends upon the depth from which it is taken." Statistics show all
sorts of yield of gold at all depths; it is indeed as the working miners
say regarding the gold, "Where it is, there it is, and no rule applies."
We were told of the appointment of a Government commission in Melbourne
not long ago, whose members travelled over the colony to inspect
personally the mining operations, and make a proper report thereon.
After due consideration these gentlemen prepared and published their
report, with much official flourish, each member doubtless tincturing it
with some favorite theory of his own. The result was simply ridiculous,
as within a twelvemonth, and by practical results at the various mines
which they had inspected, every deduction of their report was proved to
be entirely wrong.
It is in this colony of Australia that the traveller finds the giant
trees, considered to be one of the great wonders of our times, and which
exceed in dimensions those grand conifers of California in which
Americans feel such pride. These big trees of Victoria are called the
mountain ash, though why so named we do not understand, as they are not
of that family. But they are certainly the tallest trees in the known
world, often measuring four hundred feet and more in height, and from
fifty to sixty feet in girth a couple of yards from the ground. When we
say that these trees exceed in dimensions those of California, we refer
especially to their height, inasmuch as the American trees equal them,
if they do not in some instances surpass them, in circumference. The
Australian trees rise a hundred feet more or less from the roots without
putting forth a lateral branch. On beholding them one is not at first
impressed by their exceptional size or monarch-like appearance; but they
grow upon one by further observation. A trip of a hundred miles from
Melbourne due east to Sale--a remarkably pleasant town of between three
and four thousand inhabitants, situated on the Gippsland railroad--takes
one to the region where these immense forest giants are to be seen, and
at the same time introduces the traveller to some of the finest scenery
in the mountain range of this district.
It is in this neighborhood that one finds the kangaroo in his wild
state; but a good local guide is necessary to insure success in the
search for these animals. Though the kangaroo, like everything else
aboriginal, is gradually disappearing in Australia, the onslaught and
ceaseless war which is waged against the wild dog, the only enemy except
man which the kangaroo has to fear, leaves the latter a chance even for
increase in some districts, as we found to be the case in Queensland. It
is calculated that one kangaroo eats as much grass and consumes as much
food generally as do five sheep, and consequently he is looked upon as
an enemy, to be hunted with the one idea of exterminating him
altogether. In roaming the woods one is almost sure to fall in with more
or less of these animals. They are usually found sitting upright in
circles of a dozen or more, as grave as though engaged in holding a
formal council. Their short fore-paws hang limp before them, while their
restless heads and delicate ears turn hither and thither in watchful
care against surprise. Notwithstanding their huge paunch, big
hind-quarters, and immense tail, there is something graceful and
attractive about these creatures, even with all their proverbial
awkwardness. When they are young they are as playful as kittens. Even
when running away from pursuit,--a process performed by enormous leaps,
often covering a rod at each flying jump,--there is a certain airy grace
and harmony of movement attending their motions. Dogs and horses have
more power of endurance than the kangaroo, and are thus enabled to run
them down; but neither horse nor dog can achieve the same degree of
speed for moderate distances. If the chase occurs in a wood where there
are numerous obstacles, like heavy logs, the kangaroo is safe, since he
can surmount all such impediments without diminution of speed.
In the forest glades of Victoria one becomes acquainted with some of the
most interesting of the birds of Australia. It is said that very many of
those which are now abundant are not indigenous, but have been
introduced from time to time by the new-comers from Europe and
elsewhere. At all events, the birds of this region are abundant enough
now and of great variety, adding much to the charm of inland districts.
The shrill whistle of the blue-jay saluted us constantly; and equally
frequent were the monotonous notes of the green thrush. Now and then the
confused utterances of the leather-head were heard, a peculiar bird
resembling a small vulture. As to the screams of the cockatoos and
parrots, they are at times quite deafening. There was observed one
diminutive feathered creature called the diamond-bird, arrayed in
gorgeous plumage, and having a rich dark crimson tail, while the body
was mottled like the iris colors upon a blue pigeon's throat, or the
surface of an opal. Now and again the small pheasant wren flitted by,
lighting upon some delicate branch of tree or bush, with its long tail
trailing behind it. One specimen of the lyre-bird was seen, though it is
so shy and wild as to be seldom captured.
It is mainly to behold the big gum-trees, however, that one visits the
Fernshaw Mountain district; and they alone richly repay the trouble of
going thither. We were told of one fallen monarch which was measured by
a government surveyor, which had a length upon the ground of four
hundred and seventy-four feet. The Pyramid of Cheops is not so high as
was this tree when it stood erect. The average height of these marvels
is from three hundred and fifty to four hundred feet. They are situated
in a valley protected from winds, and are favorably located to promote
their growth, and also to preserve them from destruction by gales or
sudden tornadoes, such as have prostrated some of the largest trees in
our own valley of the Yosemite.
There are some picturesque lakes in Gippsland which deserve mention,
separated from the sea only by narrow necks of land, though in some
instances there are passages between navigable by small steamboats. The
largest of these lakes is that known as Lake Corangamite, which is salt,
though it has no visible connection with the sea. The great amount of
evaporation which takes place here in the summer months leaves on its
shores large quantities of salt crystals, the gathering of which forms
an important local industry.
In these inland excursions large districts were seen devoted to the
raising of grapes and the production of wine therefrom. We were told
that the wine made from these Victoria vineyards was admitted to be the
best produced in the country. Much land is also given up to the raising
of hops, which recalled the thrifty fields of Kent, in England. There
were seen here immense expanses of oats, which are mostly cut
green,--that is, just before ripening,--for fodder. Together with these
several interests, there were also plenty of copper and tin mines being
worked; and we were informed by good authority that one third of the
total area of the colony is believed to be occupied by gold-bearing
quartz. Extraordinary as this assertion appears, it is fully credited by
the author.
A most curious and remarkable example of birdlife and bird-instinct was
pointed out to us, in the instance of what is known as the bower-bird.
This peculiar little creature builds a cunning play-place, a tiny shady
bower, which it ornaments with vines and high-colored feathers of other
birds, besides the yellow blossoms of the wattle-tree and dainty ferns.
In this ingeniously devised sylvan retreat the feathered architect runs
about and holds a sort of carnival, to which he apparently invites
others of his tribe. At all events a select company come hither and join
the builders for an hour or so, chirping vigorously and strutting about
together in a most ludicrously demonstrative manner.
Scarcely any of the animals found in other countries were native to this
land. There were no apes, no ruminants, no lions, tigers, or wolves. We
were told about the wild dog, already spoken of, familiarly known as the
"dingo," which is such a serious pest to the sheep-raisers, and which
closely resembles the Scotch collie. This creature is the wildest and
fiercest animal found in the Australian bush, evincing a destructive
propensity merely for the sake of spilling blood. Its habit is to kill a
dozen sheep when it attacks a flock, though one would more than suffice
to satisfy its hunger. It seizes the unresisting victim by the throat,
and its fatal work is quickly accomplished. A price is placed upon the
head of the dingo by Government, and there is a class of men who are
particularly fond of hunting it, and who obtain a living by waging a
constant war upon the species. Undoubtedly this animal was introduced
here by Captain Cook when he landed a second time in the country, and a
century of wild life has given to it a new nature. The hunters of the
dingo also make rabbits a special object of onslaught, for which
Government pays a liberal premium of so much per brace, the heads being
required as evidence of their destruction. But all efforts to destroy
these prolific creatures have so far proved inadequate.
A packet ship arrived from London with emigrants while we were at
Melbourne, its passengers being of a very mixed character. Some few of
them were doubtless real workers honestly desirous of benefiting their
circumstances in a legitimate manner; but the majority seemed to be
idlers, of little use to themselves and hardly desirable additions to
the colony. These new arrivals appeared entirety unlike the emigrants
who come in such vast numbers to our own shores from all parts of
Europe. While a majority of these Australian immigrants were obviously
from the lower classes of the big English cities, the arrivals in
America consist mostly of those coming from the rural districts of
Northern Europe.
As already intimated, characters which cannot be whitewashed in England
are often encouraged to emigrate to Australia. Originally such persons
were sent hither by the courts; now they come by the persuasion of their
friends. We believe there is enough of sterling worth and responsibility
established in Australia to overrule the unfortunate elements thrown
upon her shores by the inflow of questionable humanity. At all events
such a class of immigration is the inevitable outgrowth of circumstances
beyond the control of the colonists. They have so successfully lived
down the early penal associations attached to their country, that the
best result may be hoped for as regards this matter. Australia is
certainly a good place to bring people to their true level. The
shiftless and helpless quickly sink to the bottom, while energy and
tact, whether in the low born or those from the higher walks of life,
cause their possessors to rise to the surface and become a power in the
land.
The author saw some examples of a sad and painful character in the cases
of individuals who had been reared in luxury at home, in England, but
who were nearly starving in Melbourne. They would willingly have worked
their passage back to the old country, but as they could not be rated as
able-bodied seamen, they could find no such chance. There is room and
opportunity enough in Australia for any number of sober, hardy, frugal
men and women who have a special business or regular calling. An
industrious and worthy person is sure to make a good living there, and
perhaps to realize a fortune; but he cannot _pick_ it up,--he must
_work_ it up. That which comes by laborious effort and self-abnegation
remains with us, and constitutes a lasting capital. The gold nuggets
which are occasionally found here never amount to much as regards the
benefit of the finder. It is upon the whole a fortunate day for the
respectable immigrant who has any degree of ability, when he concludes
to turn his back upon gold-digging and adopt some more legitimate
business. The great elements of success are the same in Australia as in
California, Africa, or Massachusetts; namely, steadiness of purpose,
application, and temperance. One thing we would impress upon every one:
let those who cannot resist the fascination of the bottle, avoid
Australia; for it is the very hot-bed of dissipation, and no place for
the weak and irresolute.
The laboring classes of Melbourne and Sydney especially make great
efforts to prevent emigration from Europe, on the ground that it will
have a tendency to reduce wages,--a view palpably narrow and contracted
beyond all reason. There cannot be too many good immigrants; and any
policy tending to limit their numbers is as short-sighted as most of the
ignorant schemes of organized Labor Unions. Even a larger number of the
despised Chinese would be desirable in the present state of things in
Australia; but the landing fee of fifty dollars acts almost as
prohibitory in regard to the Asiatic race, besides which all sorts of
lawless impediments are instituted to operate against their well-being.