The Venetians always loved processions, and it is to one of these

pageants that the pigeons of Saint Mark’s owe their immunity. As early

as the end of the fourteenth century it was the custom to make a great

procession on Palm Sunday, in the neighbourhood of Saint Mark’s. A canon

of the Cathedral deposited great baskets on the high altar, containing

the artificial palms prepared for the Doge, the chief magistrates, and

the most important members of the clergy. The Doge’s palm was prepared

by the nuns of Sant’ Andrea, and was a monument of patience. The leaves

were plaited with threads of palm, of gold, of silver, and of silk; and

on the gilded handle were painted the arms of the Doge. According to the

appointed service the procession began immediately after the

distribution of the palms; and while the choir chanted the words

‘Gloria, laus et honor’ of the sacred hymn, a great number of pigeons

were sent flying from different parts of the façade down into the

square, having little screws of paper fastened to their claws to prevent

them from flying too high. The people instantly began to catch the

birds, and a great many were actually taken; but now and then, one

stronger than the rest succeeded in gaining the higher parts of the

surrounding buildings, enthusiastically cheered by the crowd. Those who

had once succeeded in making their escape were regarded as sacred for

ever with all their descendants. The State provided them with food from

its granaries, and before long, lest by some mistake any free pigeons

should be caught on the next Palm Sunday, the Signory decreed that other

birds than pigeons must be used on the occasion.

[Illustration: SOTTO PORTICO DELLA GUERRA]

VIII

THE HOSE CLUB--VENETIAN LEGENDS

In the fourteenth century, life in Venice was simple and vigorous, and

found its civic expression in the formation of the Guilds which united

in

[Sidenote: _Molmenti, Vita Privata. Sansovino. Galliccioli, ii. 267,

269. Mutinelli, Lessico._]

close and brotherly bonds men of grave and energetic character, devoted

to their country and to its advantage. In the fifteenth and sixteenth

centuries the tendencies of the later Venetians took visible shape in

brotherhoods of joyous and not harmless amusement, and chiefly in that

known as the ‘Compagnia della Calza,’ in plain English the ‘Hose Club.’

The learned Professor Tomassetti of the University of Rome, whose

authority in all that concerns the Middle Ages in Italy is indisputable,

informs me that he believes the right of wearing hose of two or more

colours, as one leg white and one leg red, or quartered above and below

the knee, belonged exclusively to free men, and that the fashion was

adopted by them in order that they might be readily distinguished from

the serf-born, in crowds and in public places. This is, indeed, the only

reasonable explanation of the practice which has ever been offered, and

is borne out by a careful examination of the pictures of the time. The

‘Hose Club’ distinguished themselves and recognised one another by their

hose, which were of two colours, one leg having at first a peacock

embroidered on it, whence the whole company was sometimes nicknamed ‘The

Peacocks.’

The Doge Michel Steno, who painted his four hundred horses yellow, and

had been concerned in the libel against the nephew of Marin Faliero,

[Sidenote: _1400._]

had been counted among the gayest youths of his day; and when he was

elected the rich young men of Venice, knowing by hearsay from their

fathers that he had been wild in his youth, determined to celebrate the

accession of a former dandy in a manner suited to their own tastes. They

agreed upon the dress which afterwards became famous, and each paid a

sum of two thousand ducats into a general fund which was entirely spent

in pageantry, banqueting, and masquerades.

They had not at first intended the Club to be permanent, but when the

anniversary of the Doge’s coronation came round in the following year,

they met again to consider the advisability of prolonging an institution

which made such an agreeable contrast to the general gravity of Venetian

life.

They now composed a sort of charter or constitution, which would have

made the heads of the artisan Guilds tremble with indignation, and might

[Sidenote: _1401._]

well have caused the fathers of Venetian families to look even more

grave than usual.

The Club was to be always a Company of twenty members, chosen for four

years only; for as soon as a young Venetian married, or took his seat in

the Great Council, he put on the long gown of older years and more

dignified habits, which effectively eclipsed his brilliant legs from the

public gaze. Each Company was to choose its name, an emblem, and a

motto. There were to be officers, a president, a secretary, and a

treasurer; and as the Venetians had a mania for sanctioning even the

most frivolous doings by means of some religious exercise, each Company

was to have a chaplain to celebrate a solemn mass at the admission of

each young scapegrace who joined. The chaplain also administered the

oath which every Companion was bound to take on admission.

The smallest infraction of the rules entailed a heavy fine, and the

fines were, of course, periodically spent in riotous amusements. As for

the dress, the hose always remained a part of it, but the greatest

latitude was allowed in the matter of colour and embroidery, or other

ornamentation.

The formation of the joyous Companies was a natural reaction after the

huge efforts, the strenuous labours, the awful dangers that had filled

the fourteenth century, and had placed Venice high among the European

powers. From the foundation of the first of the Company, that of the

‘Peacocks,’ to the dispersion of the ‘Accesi,’ the ‘Ardent,’ which was

the last, a hundred and eighty-six years went by, which may be called

six generations, during which forty-three Companies succeeded each

other, and the ‘Hose Club’ became famous throughout Europe for its

extravagance, and for the fertility of its festive inventions.

It made it its especial business to adorn with its presence in a body

the public baptisms of noble children, and important weddings, the

visits of illustrious personages, and even elections where there was

much at stake. When a foreign sovereign stopped in Venice, he asked to

be made an honorary member of the Company, he sometimes adopted its

dress, and he took home with him its emblem and its motto.

The most famous of all the Companies was that of the ‘Reali,’ the

‘Royals,’ which was in existence about the year 1530. The members wore a

red

[Sidenote: _Cicogna, Iscr. iii. 366._]

stocking on the right leg, and a blue one on the left, which was

embroidered on one side with large flowers of violet colour, and on the

other the emblem of the Company, which was a cypress, over which ran

the motto, ‘May our glorious name go up

[Illustration: PONTE S. ANTONIO]

to heaven.’ The members wore a vest of velvet embroidered with gold and

fine pearls, and the sleeves were fastened on by knots of ribband of

different colours, a fashion permitting the wearer to display his shirt

of gossamer linen, exquisitely embroidered.

A leathern or a gilded girdle was worn too, ornamented with precious

stones, and over the shoulder was carelessly thrown a short mantle of

cloth of gold, or damask, or brocade, with a hood thrown back, in the

lining of which was seen again the emblematic cypress.

Last of all the ‘toga,’ the great cloak, was red, and was fastened at

the neck by a small golden chain, from the end of which a handsome jewel

hung down below the ear, over one shoulder. The boots were of

embroidered or cut leather, and were made with very thin soles.

Venice had to thank the Companions of the Hose Club for some of the

first real theatrical performances ever given, which gradually led to

the creation of the ‘ridotti,’ and were more or less aristocratic

gambling clubs in connection with the theatres. We read that in 1529 the

Companions played a comedy with immense success in the house of one of

the Loredan family. In the following year the Duke of Milan visited the

city, and the Club determined to out-do all its previous festivities. A

Giustiniani was then the president of the ‘Royals,’ and he appeared with

a deputation before the Doge and the Signory. After announcing that the

Club had determined to produce the spectacle of a naval combat, he

requested the government to lend for the purpose forty of the light

war-pinnaces from the Arsenal. As if this were nothing unusual, he went

on to ask for the use of the hall of the Great Council for a dance, of

the Library for a supper, and of the Square of Saint Mark’s for a

stag-hunt.

The Hose Club evidently had large ideas. The Doge, however, granted all

that was necessary for the naval show, but said that he should have to

think over the other requests!

It is needless to say that the ladies of Venice had their share in the

gay doings of the Club, first as invited guests only, but later as

honorary Companions, wearing the emblem embroidered on their sleeves and

on the scarlet ‘felse’ of their gondolas, until the sumptuary laws

interfered.

There were times when the Signors of the Night and the Council of Ten

thought fit to limit the Club’s excessive gaiety, and it was found

necessary to issue a decree which strictly prohibited any of the eleven

thousand light ladies of the city from being received as Companions, or

asked to its entertainments; for, oddly enough, the reputables do not

seem to have resented the presence of the disreputables in the sixteenth

century.

Now and then the Companions fell out among themselves. Marin Sanudo, in

his diary, mentions that in February 1500 the Companions

[Sidenote: _Marin Sanudo, iii. I, 39._]

dined in the house of Luca Gritti, son of late Omobono; and after dinner

Zuan Moro, the treasurer of the Club, went out with Angelo Morosini,

Andrea Vendramin, and Zacaria Priuli; and they quarrelled about a

matter concerning which I refer my scholarly reader to his Muratori, and

Zuan Moro was wounded in the face, and turned and gave his assailants as

good as he had got, to the infinite scandal of the whole city, for these

Companions were all the young husbands of beautiful women, and they

disfigured each other!

We learn also from Sanudo that the Companions frequented the parlours of

nunneries as well as the palaces of their noble relations and friends,

and that in 1514, for instance, they played a comedy by Plautus in the

convent of Santo Stefano. The Company of the ‘Sempiterni,’ the

‘Eternals,’ wished to give a performance of Pietro Aretino’s ‘Talanta’

in one of the monasteries, but this was more than the monks could

endure, which will not surprise any one who has read Aretino’s works;

they might as well have proposed to give one of Giordano Bruno’s obscene

comedies; and perhaps they would, if he had then already lived and

written. Refused by the monks, the Companions hired a part of an

unfinished palace on the Canarregio for their performance.

At first sight, what surprises us is the impunity enjoyed by these young

gentlemen of pleasure, and we ask what the three ‘Wise Men on Blasphemy’

were doing. They were the Censors of the Republic, and it is amusing to

note that they acted in regard to licensing plays precisely as the

modern English government censorship does, for whereas they allowed a

scandalous piece by Aretino to be performed unchallenged, they most

strictly forbade the presentation of any biblical personage or subject

on the stage. The stories of Judith, of Jephthah’s daughter, and of

Samson were those of which the wise magistrates most particularly

disapproved, I know not why.

The first theatre Venice had was built by the Companions

[Illustration: S. ZOBENIGO]

in 1560 after the designs of Palladio, of wood, in the court of the

monastery of the Carità, but after a few years it took fire, and the

monastery itself was destroyed with it.

I find that the Companions were great ‘racket’ players; but I apprehend

that by ‘rackets’ the chroniclers intended to describe court tennis,

which was played in Venice, whereas in most other Italian cities the

game of ‘Pallone’ was the favourite, and has survived to our own time.

It is played with a heavy ball which the player strikes with a sort of

wooden glove, studded with blunt wooden pins and covering most of the

forearm.

To return to the question of the large freedom and impunity granted to

the Club by the government, the reason of such license is not far to

seek. Young men who spend their time in a ceaseless round of amusement

do not plot to overthrow the government that tolerates them. The

Signory, on the whole, protected the Companions even in their wildest

excesses, and no doubt believed them to be much more useful members of

society than they thought themselves, since their irrepressible gaiety

and almost constant popularity helped to keep the people in a good

humour in times of trouble and disturbance.

At the time of the league of Cambrai, for instance, when Pope Julius

II., the Emperor Maximilian, Louis XII. of France, and Ferdinand of

Aragon agreed to destroy the Venetian Republic, and when it looked as if

they must succeed, the Company of the ‘Eternals’ produced a mummery

which was highly appreciated both by the government and the population.

They gave a sumptuous feast, after which the dining-hall was, as by

magic, turned into an improvised theatre. In the middle of the stage

[Sidenote: _1510. Rom. v. 246._]

sat a young noble who personated the King, splendidly arrayed in the

Byzantine fashion, and attended by his counsellors, his chancellor, and

his interpreter. Before him there came in state one who played the Papal

Legate, dressed as a bishop in silk of old-rose colour, and he presented

a brief and his credentials; whereupon, after crowning and blessing the

King, he observed that he should like to see a little dancing, and two

of the Companions at once danced for him with two of the fairest ladies.

The Legate was followed by the Ambassador of the Holy Roman Empire, and

the Ambassadors of France, Spain, Hungary, and Turkey arrived in turn;

each spoke in the language of his country, and his speech was

interpreted to the King. Last of all came the Ambassador of the Pigmies

mounted on a tiny pony accompanied by four dwarfs and the professional

buffoon Zanipolo. We must suppose the speeches to have been very witty,

and the dwarfs and buffoons highly comic, since this incomprehensible

nonsense was a stupendous success and was talked of long afterwards.

The taste for these ‘momarie,’ literally ‘mummeries,’ grew in Venice.

Marin Sanudo describes one which was produced in the Square of Saint

Mark’s on the Thursday before Lent in 1532. I translate a part of the

list of the masks, to give an idea of the whole.

First, the goddess Pallas Athene with her shield and a book in her hand,

riding on a serpent.

Second, Justice riding on an elephant, with sword, scales, and globe.

Third, Concord, on a stork with sceptre and globe.

Fourth, Victory on horseback, with sword, shield, sceptre, and palm.

Fifth, Peace riding a lamb, and holding a sceptre with an olive branch.

And so on. Then Ignorance, riding an ass, and holding on by the tail,

met Wisdom and fought and was beaten. And Violence appeared on a

serpent, and Mars on a horse, and Want on a dog with a horn full of

straw for its emblem. And Violence was soundly beaten by Justice,

Discord by Concord, and Mars by Victory, and Abundance drove Want from

the field.

Such were the shows that amused the Venetians, while written comedy was

slowly growing out of infancy.

The Companions of the Hose Club revenged themselves cruelly on any one

of their own number who

[Sidenote: _Tassini, under Osteria della Campana._]

showed signs of meanness. Sanudo tells the following anecdote. Alvise

Morosini, one of the ‘Eternals,’ on the occasion of his marriage with a

daughter of the noble house of Grimani, gave his fellow-Companions a

very meagre dinner. Not long afterwards they got into the Grimani palace

and carried off two magnificent silver basins; these were placed in the

hands of professional buffoons who paraded the city with them, informing

the public that the bridegroom meant to pawn them to pay for the dinner

which the Companions were going to eat at the sign of the Campana

instead of the dinner which they should have eaten at the Palazzo

Morosini, and also to pay for wax torches for taking home the fair

ladies who were to be asked to the feast.

The paternal and business-like government of Venice, seeing how much the

Companions contributed to the national gaiety, allowed them to

transgress the sumptuary laws which were so binding on every one else.

For instance, ordinary mortals were forbidden to ask guests to more than

one meal in the twenty-four hours, but the Companions eluded the

law--with the consent of the police--by keeping an open table all night,

so that breakfast appeared to be only the end of supper. Even in the

matter of the gondolas, the rule was that the ‘felse’ should be of black

cloth, yet the Companions covered theirs with scarlet silk and the

Provveditori delle Pompe had nothing to say.

Then, suddenly, the government had a fit of morality, and in 1586 the

Hose Club was abolished by law, all privileges were revoked, and the

decree was enforced. Venice lost some amusement and much beautiful

pageantry, and gained nothing in morality. It was not very long before

the grave senators who objected to the Companions were seen in their

scarlet togas presiding over authorised gambling establishments in the

‘ridotti.’

The Venetians were an imaginative people who delighted in fables,

amusing, terrible, or pious, as the case might be. Their stories differ

from those of other European races in the Middle Ages by the total

absence of the element of chivalry upon which most other peoples

largely depended for their unwritten fiction. One can make almost

anything of a business man except a knight.

Near the Ponte dell’ Angelo in the Giudecca stands a house which shows

great age in spite of much

[Illustration: PONTE DELL’ ANGELO, GIUDECCA, OLD WOODEN BRIDGE]

modern plastering. The windows are gothic, of the

[Sidenote: _Tassini, under ‘Angelo.’_]

ogival design, and on the façade there is an image of the Virgin with

the infant Christ in her arms. Higher up, a bas-relief represents an

angel standing with outstretched wings as if he were about to fly away

after blessing with his right hand the globe he holds in his left.

In the year 1552 this house was inhabited by a barrister of the ducal

court who professed unbounded devotion to the Madonna, and practised the

most indelicate methods of improving his fortunes.

One day the lawyer asked to dinner a holy Capuchin monk who enjoyed the

highest reputation for sanctity. Before sitting down to table he

explained to the good friar that he had a most wonderful servant in the

shape of a learned ape, that kept his house clean, cooked for him, and

did his errands. The holy man at once perceived that the ape was no less

a personage than the Devil in disguise, and asked to see him; but Satan,

suspecting trouble, hid himself till at last he was found curled up in

his master’s bed, trembling with fright.

‘I command thee,’ said the monk, ‘in the name of God, to say why thou

hast entered this house.’

‘I am the Devil,’ answered the ape, seeing that prevarication would be

useless, ‘and I am here to take possession of this lawyer’s soul, which

is mine on several good grounds.’

The monk inquired why the Devil had not flown away with the soul long

ago, but the fiend replied that so far it had not been possible, because

the lawyer said ‘Hail, Mary,’ every night before going to bed. Thereupon

the Capuchin bade the Devil leave the house at once; but the Devil said

that if he went he would do great damage to the building, as the

heavenly powers had authorised him to do. But the monk was a match for

him.

‘The only damage you shall do,’ said the friar, ‘shall be by making a

hole in the wall as you leave, which shall be a witness of the truth of

what we have seen and heard and of the story we shall tell.’

The Devil obeyed with alacrity and disappeared through the wall with a

formidable crash, after which the lawyer and his guest sat down to

table, and the monk discoursed of leading a good life; and at last he

took the table-cloth and wrung it with both hands, and a quantity of

blood ran out of it which he said was the blood the lawyer had wrung

from his clients. Then the sinner began to shed tears and promised to

make full reparation, and he told the monk that if the hole in the wall

were not stopped up, he feared the Devil would come in by it again. So

the friar advised him to place a statue of the Madonna before the hole

and an angel over it, to scare the Devil away. And so he did.

Another Venetian legend of slightly earlier date tells how there was

once in the confraternity of Saint John

[Sidenote: _Tassini, under ‘San Lio.’_]

the Evangelist a man who led a bad life, to the great scandal of all who

knew him. One of the brethren having died, the Superior hoped to touch

the heart of that wicked man by asking him to bear the Cross in the

funeral procession. ‘I will neither walk in the procession to-day,’

answered the sinner, ‘nor do I wish to be so accompanied when the Devil

carries me off.’ After some time he died, and the brethren proceeded to

bury him, walking in procession after the Cross; but when they reached

the bridge of San Lio it became so heavy that it was impossible to lift

it from the ground, much less to carry it. The Superior now remembered

the words of the blasphemer, and told the story to the brethren while

[Sidenote: _Picture representing the scene, Mansueti; Accademia delle

belle Arti._]

they halted. So they all decided that the Cross must not follow the

procession, and thereupon it instantly became light again, and was

carried back to the chapel of Saint John the Evangelist.

The fireside is the natural place for telling stories, and there is

certainly some connection in the human mind between firelight and the

fabulous. Dante tells that in his time the women of Venice consulted the

fire in order to know the future. When a girl was engaged to be married

she appealed to one of the burning logs, and decided from the augury

whether she was to be happy or unhappy. Those who wanted money struck

the log with the tongs, calling out softly, ‘Ducats! ducats!’ If the

sparks flew out abundantly there was some hope that a rich relation

might die and leave the inquirer a legacy. When the sparks were few and

faint, poverty was prophesied.

Unlike all other Italians, who believe that hunchbacks bring good luck,

the Venetians feared them excessively. A Venetian proverb says, ‘Leave

three steps between thyself and those whom God has marked, eight if it

is a hunchback, and twenty-eight if the man be lame.’

One of the pretty superstitions of Venetian mothers was that if they

took their little children out before dawn on Saint John’s Day, the

twenty-fourth of June, so that the morning dew might dampen their cheeks

and hair, they would have lovely complexions and golden locks. There are

old Venetian lullabies that promise babies the midsummer dew.

[Illustration: RIO S. SOFIA, NIGHT]

IX

THE DECADENCE

The seventeenth century, like the fourteenth, was one of transition; but

whereas the earlier period was one of improvement, the latter was one of

decay. When time at last began to do its work upon the Republic, Venice

had been independent nine hundred years; she was still at the height of

her glory, still in the magnificence of her outward splendour, but the

long-strained machinery of government was beginning to wear out. At the

commencement of the seventeenth century all Italy seemed to be

threatened by war; the peace

[Sidenote: _1598. Rom. vii. 5._]

patched up between Philip II. of Spain and Henry IV. of France at

Vervins had been of an unsatisfactory and precarious nature; the Holy

See was more and more on its guard against the Protestant powers, and

Spain took advantage of this in order to sow discord between the court

of Rome and other governments. Venice was especially involved in these

difficulties, because she had signed in 1589 a commercial treaty with

the Grisons which had greatly displeased Spain, the latter being then in

[Sidenote: _Rom. vi. 412._]

possession of Milan. The Republic was accused of being too obliging to

Protestants, and her enemies assured the Pope that she had seriously

endangered the safety of the Catholic Church by allowing the English

ambassador to have an Anglican Church service in his private oratory.

The complaints of Clement VIII. and Paul V. were received with stony

indifference by the Republic, which never had the slightest respect for

Rome. The latter had many causes of complaint. Venice had been granted

in former times the privilege of trying priests for ordinary crimes in

the ordinary courts, on condition that the Patriarch should sit among

the judges. Little by little the Venetian government stretched this

privilege to make it apply to all suits whatsoever brought

[Sidenote: _Rom. vii. 43, notes._]

against ecclesiastics, and in most cases the Patriarch was not even

represented. It chanced, at the very time when the Pope had

[Illustration: CAMPIELLO DELLE ANCORE]

Salve Venetia, gleanings from Venetian history; vol. II · 第 10 / 24 段