The Venetians had never been altogether at peace with the Turks, in

spite of the treaty which had been made soon after the fall of

Constantinople;

[Sidenote: _Daru; Rom._]

but when Venice herself was threatened by all the European powers

together, it was with the highest satisfaction that she saw the Moslems

attack her old enemies the Hungarians. Yet her joy was of short

duration, for the Emperor soon made peace with the Sultan. It will be

remembered that the Imperial throne had then already been hereditary in

the Hapsburg family for many years.

The character of Turkish warfare in the Mediterranean was always

piratical, of the very sort most certain to harass and injure a maritime

commercial nation like Venice, and the latter began to lose ground

steadily in the Greek archipelago, and now found herself obliged to

defend the coasts of the Adriatic against the Turks as she had formerly

defended them against the pirates of Narenta. From time to time a

Turkish vessel was captured, and hundreds of Christian slaves were found

chained to the oar.

There were also other robbers along the Dalmatian coast, who exercised

their depredations against Turks

[Sidenote: _Niccolò da Ponte triumphs over the Usocchi; Tintoretto, Hall

of the Great Council._]

and Christians alike, with admirable equity. These were the so-called

‘Usocchi,’ a name derived from a Slav root meaning to ‘leap out’--hence,

those who had escaped and fled their country and were outlaws.

About this time the island of Cyprus had fallen in part under Turkish

domination. The Turks had

[Sidenote: _Cicogna, Iscr. Ven. iii. 134._]

made a piratical descent upon Nicosia, and had carried off all the women

who were still young enough for the Eastern market. But one of these, a

heroine whose name is lost, fired the ship’s powder-magazine and saved

herself and her companions from outrage by causing the instant death of

every soul on board. This was in the latter half of the sixteenth

century.

Thirsting for vengeance, the Venetians now eagerly joined Philip II. of

Spain in the league proposed by the Pope. The three fleets were to meet

at Messina, and much precious time was lost, during which the Turks

completed their conquest of Cyprus, which was heroically defended by

Marcantonio Bragadin. His fate was horrible. His nose and ears were cut

off, and he was obliged to witness the death of his brave companions,

Tiepolo, Baglione, Martinengo, and Quirini. They were stoned, hanged,

and carved to shreds before his eyes, and a vast number of Venetian

soldiers and women and children were massacred before him during the

following ten days. At last his turn came to die; he was hung by the

hands in the public square and slowly skinned alive. It is said that he

died like a hero and a saint, commending his soul to God, and forgiving

his enemies.

The ferocious Mustapha, by whose orders these horrors were perpetrated,

ordered his skin to be stuffed and had it carried about the streets,

under a red umbrella, in allusion to the arms of the Bragadin family.

The hideous human doll

[Sidenote: _Molmenti, Seb. Venier._]

was then hoisted to the masthead of Mustapha’s ship as a trophy and

taken in that way to Constantinople.

But in his lifetime Bragadin had ransomed a certain man of Verona from

the Turks, and had earned his undying gratitude. This Veronese, hearing

of his benefactor’s awful end, swore to bring home his skin, since

nothing else remained, and with incredible skill and courage actually

entered the Turkish arsenal at Constantinople, where the trophy was

kept, stole it and brought it home. It is related that the skin was

found as soft as silk and was easily folded into a small space; it is

preserved in the church of San Giovanni e Paolo.

The vengeance of the league was slow, but it was memorably terrible; in

1571 Don John of Austria, a stripling of genius, scarcely six and twenty

years of age, commanded the three fleets and led Christianity to victory

at Lepanto.

[Sidenote: _Lepanto, A. Vicentini; ducal palace._]

One of the decisive battles of the world checked the Mohammedan power

for ever in the Gulf of Corinth, and the blood of eighty thousand Turks

avenged the inhuman murder of Bragadin and the self-destruction of the

captive Venetian women.

Not many days later, on the eighteenth of October 1571, the great ‘Angel

Gabriel,’ a galley of war, came sailing into the harbour of Venice, full

[Sidenote: _Molmenti, Seb. Venier._]

dressed with flags, and trailing in her wake long line of Turkish

standards, and turbans and coats. Then the cannon thundered, and the

crew cried ‘Victory! Victory!’ and the triumphant note went rolling over

Venice, while Onofrio Giustiniani, the commander of the man-of-war, went

up to the ducal palace. Then the people went mad with joy, and demanded

that all prisoners should be set free in honour of the day; and the

Council allowed at least all those to be liberated who were in prison

for debt. Then, too, the people cried ‘Death to the Turks!’ and would

have massacred every Mussulman in the Turks’ quarter; but to the honour

of Venice it is recorded that the government was strong enough to hinder

that.

And then the Doge, Aloise Mocenigo, found his way through the closely

packed crowd to the Basilica,

[Sidenote: _Aloise Mocenigo, praying, Tintoretto; Sala del Collegio._]

and fifty thousand voices sang ‘Te Deum laudamus Domine,’ till the

triumphant strain must have been heard far out on the lagoon. During

four days processions marched through the streets and hymns of victory

and thanksgiving were sung; the greatest battle of the age had been

fought and won on the feast of Saint Justina, who was one of the patrons

of Venice. In return for her military assistance an enthusiastic and

devout people resolved to set up a statue of her in the Arsenal and to

build her a church in Padua, as she already had one in Venice.

Religious obligations being thus cancelled, the universal rejoicing

manifested itself in civic pageantry,

[Sidenote: _Rom. vi. 317._]

and, to use a modern expression, the Venetians held a general exhibition

of their treasures. The square of the Rialto was draped with scarlet

cloth, on which were hung the pictures of the most famous masters, at a

time when some of the greatest that ever lived were alive in Venice and

at the height of their glory. In the midst of the square a trophy was

raised, composed of Turkish arms and banners, turbans, slippers, jewels,

and all sorts of ornaments taken from the slain. From the jewellers’

lane to the bridge a canopy of blue cloth covered with golden stars was

spread high across the way, the most precious tapestries were hung on

the walls of the houses, the shops showed all their most artistic wares

in their windows. The German quarter was so crammed with beautiful

objects that it seemed one great enchanted palace. To increase the

general gaiety, the government made a special exception and allowed

masks in the streets.

When it is remembered that Venice really obtained little or no immediate

advantage from the battle of Lepanto, her frenzy of triumph may seem

exaggerated; yet it was moderate compared with the reception Rome gave

to the commander of the Papal fleet, Marcantonio Colonna. The Venetian

captain, Sebastian Venier, was not present, and there was not the least

personal note in the rejoicings; that, indeed, would have been very

contrary to the usual behaviour of the Republic towards her own sons,

for if they failed she disowned them or put them to death, and if they

succeeded it was her motherly practice to disgrace them as soon as

possible, and generally to find an excuse for imprisoning them, lest

they should grow dangerous to herself.

We cannot help reproaching her for that; yet out of her magnificent

past comes back ever that same answer: she succeeded, where others

failed. She bred

[Illustration: DOOR OF THE CARMINE]

such men as Enrico Dandolo, Vittor Pisani, Carlo Zeno, and Sebastian

Venier, yet she was never enslaved by one of her own children. Rome

served her Cæsar, and her many Cæsars; France, her Bonaparte; Russia,

her Ivan Strashny, the Terrible; Spain, her Philip II.; England, her

Richard III.--and her Cromwell, Protector and Tyrant. But Venice was

never subject to any one Venetian man beyond the time needed to compass

his destruction and death, which was never long, and sometimes was

awfully brief.

Venier did not return to Venice till long after the battle of Lepanto,

and his presence was necessary in the Archipelago in order to protect

such colonies as were left to the Republic.

[Sidenote: _Venier returns in triumph, Palma Giovane; Sala dei

Pregadi._]

For though the Turks had suffered a disastrous defeat, final in the

sense that their advance westwards was checked as effectually as the

spreading of the Moorish conquest had been by Charles Martel at

Poitiers, yet they were still at the height of their power in

Constantinople, and were strong on the eastern side of the dividing line

which was now drawn across the Mediterranean, and which marked the

eastern limit of Christian domination. When Venier returned, the Turks

were absolute masters of the island of Cyprus, and Venice was already

beginning to pay what was really a war indemnity, destined to reach the

formidable sum of three hundred thousand ducats. As Montesquieu truly

says, it looked as if the Turks had been the victors at Lepanto.

Three years after that battle Venice was again adorned in her best to

greet Henry III. of

[Sidenote: _Rom. vi. 341._]

France, who visited the city in July 1574, the year of his accession.

The King was to make his entry on the eighteenth, and he was requested

to stop at Murano on the previous evening, in the

[Sidenote: _Horatio Brown, Venetian studies._]

Palazzo Cappello, which was all hung with silk and cloth of gold in his

honour. Forty young nobles were attached to his person and sixty

halberdiers mounted guard, dressed in yellow and blue, which were

regarded by the Venetians as his colours, and wearing a

[Sidenote: _Henry III. visits Venice, A. Vicentino; Sala delle Quattro

Porte._]

cap with a white tuft for a cockade. Their weapons were taken from the

armoury of the Council of Ten. There were also eighteen trumpeters and

twelve drummers dressed in the King’s colours.

Henry III. was still in mourning for his brother Charles IX., and

appeared very plainly clad in the midst of all this display. The

chronicles have preserved the details of his costume; he wore a brown

mantle that fell from his neck to his feet, and beneath it a violet

tunic of Flemish cloth with a white lace collar. He also wore long

leathern boots, perfumed gloves, and an Italian hat.

The night was passed in feasting, during which the French and the

Venetians fraternised most closely, and on the following morning a huge

galley was ready to take the King to Venice by way of the Lido.

On the high poop-deck a seat was placed for the King, covered with cloth

of gold; on his right sat the Papal Nuncio, who was the Cardinal San

Sisto, then came the Dukes of Nevers and Mantua; on his left the Doge

and the Ambassadors. Four hundred rowers pulled the big vessel over, and

fourteen galleys followed bringing the Senators and many others. To

amuse the King during the short passage, the glass-blowers of

Murano had constructed on rafts a furnace in the shape of a marine

monster that belched flames from its jaws and nostrils, while the most

famous workmen blew beakers and other vessels in the beast’s body, of

the finest crystal glass, for the King and his suite.

Just when he might be thought to be weary of this spectacle a long array

of decorated boats began to manœuvre before his eyes, with sails set and

banners flying. These belonged to the various guilds and were

wonderfully adorned. One represented a huge dolphin; on its back stood

Neptune driving two winged steeds, while four aged boatmen in costume

stood for the four rivers of the Republic, Brenta, Adige, Po, and Piave.

Some of the boats had arrangements for sending up fireworks, others were

floating exhibitions of the richest and most marvellous tapestries and

stuffs.

The royal vessel, instead of proceeding straight to Venice, went round

by the Lido to the landing of Saint Nicholas, where the State architect

Palladio had erected a triumphal arch which Tintoretto and Paolo

Veronese had covered with ten beautiful paintings. Here the King was

invited to leave his galley in order to go on board the Bucentaur.

Tintoretto was in the crowd, looking out for a chance of sketching the

King, precisely as a modern reporter hangs about the docks and railway

stations to get a snapshot at royalty. Tintoretto did not disdain the

methods of a later time either; he succeeded in exchanging his

threadbare cloak for the livery of one of the Doge’s squires or footmen,

by which trick he managed to get on board the Bucentaur. Once there he

made a sketch in pastels of the King which pleased the royal treasurer,

De Bellegarde, and the latter persuaded his master to sit to the artist

for a full-length portrait, which was presented to the Doge on the

King’s departure, in recollection of the visit.

During the following days nothing was omitted which might amuse the

Sovereign or tend to strengthen the pleasant impression he had already

received. Every sort of Venetian game was played, and all the

traditional contests of strength and skill between Niccolotti and

Castellani were revived, and with such earnestness on both sides as to

lead to a fresh outbreak of their hereditary hate. Two hundred men

fought with sticks at the Ponte del Carmine, as savagely as if the

safety and honour of their wives and children depended on the result. At

the most critical moment the fisherman Luca, the famous chief of the

Niccolotti, fell into the canal, his followers were momentarily thrown

into disorder by the accident, and the Castellani won the day.

Afterwards a banquet was given to the King, of which the remembrance

remains alive amongst the people to our own time. The gondoliers and

fishermen of to-day describe the feast, its magnificence, the beauty of

the patrician ladies, the splendour of the service, as if they were

speaking of something that happened yesterday instead of more than ten

generations ago.

The tables were set in the hall of the Great Council for three thousand

persons. The King sat in the middle of the hall under a golden canopy.

We are told that the bill of fare set forth twelve hundred different

dishes, and that all the company ate off solid silver plates, of which

there were enough for all without having recourse to the reserve which

had been set up for show on a huge sideboard at the end of the hall.

After the feast, the King assisted at the performance of the first opera

ever given in Italy, composed by the once famous master Zarlino da

Chioggia.

The banquet and the music must have occupied several hours; yet we are

amazed to learn that so short a time sufficed for putting together a

whole galley, of which Henry had seen the pieces, all taken apart, just

before sitting down to table. When he left the ducal palace, he saw to

his stupefaction the vessel launched into the canal on rollers, and

towed away towards the Lido.

Not surfeited by the official amusements offered him by the Republic,

the King diverted himself on his own account and went about the city in

disguise,

[Sidenote: _Mut. Annali._]

like Otho of old. The government had directed the jewellers and

merchants to have in readiness their finest wares in order that when the

King sent for them, he might buy objects worthy of the reputation of the

Venetian shops; and the shopkeepers inquired with feverish anxiety when

they were to go to the Palazzo Foscari.

But Henry preferred to go out shopping himself. One morning the jeweller

at the Sign of the Old Woman on the Rialto Bridge was visited by a noble

stranger, who inquired the price of a marvellously chiselled golden

sceptre: apparently the Venetian jewellers kept sceptres in stock in

case a king should look in. The price of this one was twenty-six

thousand ducats, or between eighteen and nineteen thousand pounds,

which seems dear, even for a sceptre. But the noble stranger was not at

all surprised, thought the matter over for a few seconds, nodded

quietly, and ordered the thing to be sent to the Foscari palace, to

[Illustration: CAMPO BEHIND S. GIACOMO IN ORIO]

the inexpressible joy of the jeweller, who knew the address well enough.

At that time there dwelt in Venice a branch of the famous Fugger family

of Augsburg, the richest bankers of the sixteenth century. They owned

all

[Sidenote: _Mutinelli, Annali._]

the district of the city round the church of San Giacomo, and had even

protected themselves by a sort of wall. There they had built a bank, a

hospital, and houses for their numberless retainers, and they lived in a

kind of unacknowledged principality of their own which was respected

both by the State and the people.

The family had the most magnificent traditions of hospitality. When the

Emperor Charles V. passed through Augsburg in the earlier part of the

same century, he lodged in the Fuggers’ house, and as it was winter, his

hosts caused his fires to be made only of aromatic wood imported as a

perfume from Ceylon. Henry III. visited the Fuggers in Venice, and they

were neither surprised by his unannounced visit nor unprepared to

receive a royal guest.

While in Venice the King spent much of his time with Veronica Franco,

the celebrated poetess and courtesan. She, on her side, fell deeply in

[Sidenote: _Tassini._]

love with the man who was to be the worst of all the French kings. But

he was only twenty-three years old then, he was half a Medici by blood,

and all of one by his passionate nature. Veronica loved him with all her

heart, and amidst all the evil he did there was at least one good

result, for when he was gone she would not be consoled, nor would she

ever look on another man, but mended her life and lived in a retirement

to which she sought to attract other penitent women.

She had a picture of the King painted, and no doubt he was vividly

present in her thoughts when she wrote the following sonnet, which is

attributed to her, and which I do into prose for greater accuracy:--

Begone, deceiving thoughts and empty hope,

Greedy and blind desires, and bitter cravings,

Begone, ye burning sighs and bitter woes,

Companions ever of my unending pain.

Go memories sweet, go galling chains,

Of a heart that is loosed from you at last,

That gathers up again the rein of reason,

Dropped for a while, and now goes forth in freedom.

And thou, my soul, entangled in so many sorrows,

Unbind thyself and to thy divine Lord

Rejoicing turn thy thoughts;

Now bravely force thy fate,

Break through thy bonds; then, glad and free,

Direct thy steps in the securer way!

In order to give my readers some idea of what was done to furnish the

Palazzo Foscari for Henry’s visit, I quote some items of the expenditure

from the _Souvenirs_ of Armand Baschet:--

‘Crimson silk and gold hangings, fifty-eight pieces making three hundred

and seven braccia and a half at a ducat for each braccio and twelve

inches. White silk and silver stuff; shot-silk and silver stuff; white

satin with gold lines, etc. Cushions of brocade embroidered with gold

and of blue velvet with gold and fringes etc. at forty ducats each. A

bed quilt with gold lines and scarlet checks, twenty ducats. Yellow

damask with little checks at one ducat the braccio. A rep rug of gold

edged with blue velvet and lined with red silk, sixty ducats. A

tablecloth of silver and gold brocade with white and gold fringe,

thirty-four ducats. Green and blue velvet for the floor, at one ducat

the braccio. Complete hangings for a room of yellow satin with gold and

silver fringe and gold lace, over seven hundred and thirty ducats.’

Further, we find for the royal gondolas the following items:--

‘Felse of scarlet satin, one hundred and fifty-six ducats. A boat’s

carpet of violet Alexandria velvet; a felse of the same velvet lined

with silk, fifty-five ducats. Another velvet carpet of the same colour,

two canopies, one of violet satin fringed and embroidered with gold, the

other of white satin, and two cushions of scarlet satin and gold.’

These things were put away in boxes, an inventory was taken, and they

were valued at four thousand two hundred sequins, or more than three

thousand pounds. The King on his side was generous. When he went away he

presented each of the young noblemen who had attended him with a chain

worth a hundred ducats, and gave a collar worth three hundred to his

host, Foscari. The captain of his guard received a silver basin and ewer

worth a hundred crowns. For the halberdiers of the guard there were

three hundred crowns, eighty for the trumpeters and sixty for the

drummers. His Majesty left a thousand crowns for the workmen of the

Arsenal, two hundred for the rowers of the Bucentaur, one hundred for

the major-domo, and fifty to the chief steward of the house.

The Duke of Savoy, who accompanied the King of France, also left some

splendid presents. To the wife

[Illustration: THE PIAZZA]

of Luigi Mocenigo, in whose house he had been staying, he gave a belt

composed of thirty gold rosettes, ornamented with fine pearls and

valuable precious stones. The Duke was doubtless unaware that as soon as

he was gone the handsome ornament would have to be handed over to the

Provveditori delle Pompe, not to be worn again unless a special and

elaborate decree could be obtained for the purpose.

In the first year of the reign of Sixtus V. Japan sent ambassadors to

the Pope ‘to recognise him officially as Christ’s vicar on earth.’ These

[Sidenote: _1585. Rom. vi. 387._]

personages, who were converts to Christianity, were received with

demonstrations of the greatest joy and esteem when they visited Venice,

and were regaled with spectacles which were partly religious in

character and partly secular. A procession was organised against which

the Pope himself protested in the most formal manner; but the Republic

paid no more attention than usual to this expression of papal

displeasure. It was always the dream of Venice to be Roman Catholic

without Rome.

The Japanese envoys looked on while all the clergy of the city passed in

review before them, as well as all the guilds bearing the images of

their

[Sidenote: _Giustina Renier Michiel, Origini._]

patron saints and their standards; these were followed by cars carrying

enormous erections of gold and silver vessels, built up in the form of

pyramids, and of columns, stars, eagles, lions, and symbolic beasts.

Other cars came after these with platforms, on which actors represented

scenes from the lives of saints, even including martyrdom. The

[Illustration: PIGEONS IN THE PIAZZA]

Japanese may have been more amazed than edified by these performances.

Salve Venetia, gleanings from Venetian history; vol. II · 第 9 / 24 段